-
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2002. 12
-
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21 , (IT, BT, NT ),
,
( ) , ,
.
,
,
.
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( )
.
,
,
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,
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.
-
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, ,
, , ,
.
2002 12
-
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1
1.
2.
3.
2
1.
.
.
(1)
(2)
.
2.
.
(1)
(2)
.
3.
.
.
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(2)
-
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(3)
(4)
.
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(2)
(3)
4.
.
.
5.
3
1.
2.
.
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
(5) (PC)
.
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4) (PC)
(5)
.
(1)
(2)
(3)
-
- 6 -
3.
4
1.
.
.
(1)
(2)
(3) (oligopoly)
2.
.
(1)
(2)
(3) OPEN PRICE
.
(1)
(2)
(3)
3.
.
(1)
(2)
.
.
.
(1)
(2)
5
< >
-
- 7 -
< 2-1> R&D (1997-2000)
< 2-2>
< 2-3> 30
< 2-4> 10
< 2-5> 10
< 2-6>
< 2-7> 10
< 2-8> 10
< 3-1>
< 3-2>
< 3-3> ( )
< 4-1>
< 4-2>
< 4-3>
< 4-4>
< 4-5> ( )
< 4-6>
< 4-7> ( )
< 4-8> ( )
< 4-9> ( )
< 4-10> ( )
< 4-11> ( )
< 4-12> , Matrix
-
- 8 -
< 2-1>
< 2-2>
< 2-3> (2002. 3 )
< 2-4> (2002 3 )
< 2-5> (2002 3 )
< 2-6> (2002 3 )
< 2-7> (2002 3 )
< 3-1>
< 3-2> ( )
< 3-3> ( )
< 3-4> / ( )
< 3-5> ( )
< 3-6> (IPC) ( )
< 3-7> ( )
< 3-8> ( ) ( )
< 3-9> / ( )
< 3-10> ( )
< 3-11> ( )
< 3-12> / ( )
< 3-13> ( )
< 3-14> ( )
< 3-15> (IPC) ( )
< 3-16> ( )
< 3-17> ( )
< 3-18> / ( )
< 3-19> ( )
-
- 9 -
< 3-20> ( )
< 3-21> / ( )
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< 3-23> ( )
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< 4-2>
< 4-3>
< 4-4> ( )
< 4-5> ( )
< 4-6>
< 4-7>
< 4-8>
< 4-9> R&D
< 4-10> vs ( )
< 4-11> ( )
< 4-12> ( )
< 4-13> ( )
< 4-14> ( )
< 4-15> ( )
< 4-16> (Skin care) Trends
< 4-17> (Skin care) Trends
< 4-18> (Base makeup) Trends
< 4-19> (Base care) Trends
< 4-20> ( )
< 4-21> ( )
< 4-22> ( )
< 4-23> ( )
< 4-24>
< 5-1> PLC
< 5-2> Position
-
- 10 -
1
1.
2001
4 CAGR 20%
. (2000 7 ) ,
(2001 9 26 ) ,
. ,
, ,
, 50%
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, ,
.
-
- 11 -
2.
, .
(KISTI) ,
,
, , , .
R&D
,
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.
3.
2 2 2
, ,
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2 (KISTI)
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.
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- 12 -
3
(Patent Mapping) . 20 ,
.
(http://www.kisti.re.kr) .
4 ,
. , ,
, Field Survey ,
.
-
- 13 -
2
1.
.
1995 2000 7 2001 9 26
,
.
( 1 ) ,
.
, 2 ,
.
-
- 14 -
.
.
(1)
2 1
( 2 4
) .
1906 Federal Food, Drug Act
1936 Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act 201
, , ,
, , ,
.
15 EU
(Cosmetic Directive, CDIR) 1976
.
1 ( , , , , ,
)
.
-
- 15 -
1960 2 3
, ,
. , 2 2
, , ,
, .
(2)
2 2 ,
,
, 2
,
,
, ,
.
-
- 16 -
1993 Kligman Cosmetics
& Toiletries (Cosmeceuticals)
(Cosmetics) (Pharmaceuticals)
. FDA
,
FDA .
(OTC Drug, Over-the-Counter Drug)
(Dandruff shampoo), (Antimicrobial Soaps), (Sunscreens),
(Deodorant/Antiperspirants), (Anti-carries toothpastes),
(Hormone creams), (Skin bleaches)
.
(Minoxidil) EU
,
FDA
. EU
(Skin Whitening Products) (Anti-wrinkle
products), (Sunbathing products),
(Products for tanning without sun) ,
3 EU
.
-
- 17 -
,
.
,
. ,
,
( , , , ,
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-
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2 2
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2.
.
(1)
1999 9 7 6,153 2000 7 1
, , ,
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.
-
- 19 -
,
.
.
(2)
FDA
. Red#3, Yellow#5 CFR(Code of
Federal Regulations) XXI Part 250.250 700.11 700.23
Hexachlorophene, Mecury compounds
. (Cosmetic Toiletry and Fragrance Association)
Chloroacetamide, p-Hydroxyanisole, Pyrocatechol
. FDA
.
-
- 20 -
1993 (EU, European Union) 24 (EU,
Commissioner) 24 (DG, Directoates General)
(EDG, Enterprise DG) ,
(HCPDG, Health & Consumer Protection
DG) (SSC, Scientific Streering Committee) .
EU 1976 9 27 EU (DIR,
Directive) (CDIR, Cosmetic Directive)
6 7 .
(Negative List),
(Positive List) .
55 . 1980
( 1341 ) ,
.
2000
9 2001
.
-
- 21 -
.
2001 9 ,
, , ,
. ,
,
, , (PL)
, ,
.
(OTC)
.
,
.
. ,
FDA .
-
- 22 -
EU (Cosmetic Directive)
(COLIPA)
500 .
.
. ,
(PL)
.
3.
.
,
.
, ,
.
-
- 23 -
1.6m2
( ) .
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, , , , ,
, . (Honey layer/
Stratum comeum; 0.01-0.015mm), (Epidermis; 0.1-1.5mm),
(Dermis;
2-3mm), (Subcutaneous tissue) 4 < 2-1>.
< 2-1>
-
- 24 -
15-20 (Keratin)
, ,
. 2-3
(Clear layer/Lucid layer/Stratum lucidum)
, .
.
(Granual layer/Stratum granulosum), (Spinous
layer/Prikle layer/Stratum spinosum), (Basle layer/Stratum
Basle) 3
.
(Keratohyalin) .
(Langerhans Cell)
.
(Melanocyte) .
(Connective tissue) (Collagenous Fiber) (Elastic
Fiber) . (Papillery
layer) (Recticular layer) .
(Deep fascia) .
(Fat cell) .
-
- 25 -
, , 26-42
.
.
.
, , , ,
, ,
,
.
,
.
(1)
-
- 26 -
,
( ) . , (Melanin)
(Melanocyte) (Keratinocyte)
.
.
3 .
20 .
, (Tyrosinase;
Tyrosine hydroxylase DOPA oxidase) Cu
(TRP-1 : Tyrosinase Related Protein ),
(TRP-2 : Tyrosinase Related Protein ) Fe
< 2-2>. (Kojic acid), (Arbutin), C
, (Rucinol) .
(Endothelin-1), ( -MSH : Melanocyte Stimulating Hormone),
(NO), (Histamine), (pTpT)
,
,
. , ,
,
.
-
- 27 -
< 2-2>
20-40
. 1 20 20
60
1
.
.
.
-
- 28 -
.
mRNA
.
.
(2)
.
.
.
.
-
- 29 -
,
,
, 3 . ,
, .
, ,
.
.
(Rethoids)
A (Retinol; A), (Retinoic acid;
A ), (Retinal) .
.
1960 (Retin-A) 1986
Kligman ( )
.
, A
.
-
- 30 -
, AHA( -Hyroxy
acid) . AHA
AHA AHA
, , .
.
DADA(Diisopropylamine dichloroacetate),
( ) (Kinetin),
(Ursolic acid), ,
(Sphingosine) ,
NMS(n-metyl-L-serine), Q10 (Coenzyme Q10),
(Mevalonolactone)
.
(3)
. 50% DNA 2.5
7.5-8 1%
1.56% 2.7%
.
-
- 31 -
( 6%) A(UVA; 320-400nm), B(UVB;
280-320nm), C(UVC; 200-280nm) B C
290-400nm B A . A
B 10 A B
A B
.
A
, , . A
B ,
.
.
.
-
- 32 -
.
.
, ,
.
A , B .
.
FDA 1993 OTC
.
10%
.
, , ,
PABA(Para-aminobenzoic acid) .
.
-
- 33 -
.
(4)
( )
50
,
.
,
(NMF; Natural Moisturizing Factor) , ,
.
(Moisturizer)
.
(Humectant), (Emollient; soft, smooth
molle ) , , ,
,
.
.
-
- 34 -
(Hyaluronic acid),
(Trehalose),
(Tremella) , ,
MPC(Poly 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine), .
( )
,
. , ,
.
-
- 35 -
, , , , ,
, , , , ,
.
MMP-1(Matrix Metalloproteinase-1) ,
(Elastinase) , ,
, ,
, ,
, .
, , ,
.
.
7,000 .
(Scripps Institution of Oceanography)
CODIF
, , , , 20
.
-
- 36 -
.
200m
km .
. 1996
1999
.
( )
,
, , , ,
, , ,
, .
DNA Chip (Microarray)
.
SCF(Stem Cell Factor),
MITF(Melanocyte-specific Transcription Factor)
.
-
- 37 -
.
, , .
, ,
, , ,
( )
.
1894 600
(CTFA) 1976 FDA (Consumer Federation of
American) CIR(Cosmetic Ingredient Review) . CIR
. OTC
FDA .
-
- 38 -
EU
FDA EEMCO(European Group on
Efficacy Measurement of Cosmetics and Other Topical
Products)
Skin Research & Technology, Skin Pharrnacology &
Applied Skin Physiology
.
2001 4 ,
. 55
, ,
EU
.
,
EU .
-
- 39 -
.
(1)
2000 3
10 200
.
1997 3%
2000 4% ( 3-1 ). , LG
, ,
, ,
& 9.8%
.
,
. ,
2001 3 ~4
2001 2002 10 .
, ,
( 2-2 ).
-
- 40 -
< 2-1> R&D (1997-2000)
2002
.
,
, , Melasolve
.
(2)
( )
,
.
.
-
- 41 -
< 2-2>
2000
( )
( )
melanocyte
( )
2000
( )
( )
melanocyte
( )
( )
(Mulberrin) , (Kazinol F) ,
.
( ; KFDA) ,
, (Ethyl Ascorbyl Ether), (On Soluble
Glycyrrhiza Extract) .
-
- 42 -
( )
(Retinol),
(Adenosine), (Poly ethoylated Retinamide) .
.
, , ,
. -
, E, C, Q10, .
( )
20 .
, . (ultrafine)
, .
. UV-A
UV-A, UV-B
. , , ,
, ,
.
-
- 43 -
PABA , ,
UV-A . PABA
. UV-A
.
Stilben UVA
, Benzothazol Substituted Polyorganosiloxane
.
. .
.
E, - , .
(3)
( )
-
- 44 -
2002 3 629 (50 )
327 (41 ) 52% ,
198 (34 ) 32%, 99 (17 ) 16% .
3 (3 )
0.5%, 2 (1 )
0.3% ( 2-3 ).
.
.
< 2-3> (2002. 3 )
-
- 45 -
< 2-4> (2002 3 )
( )
2002 3
50 629 ( 2-4 ) 45 ,
13 .
, , LG , , , ,
10 450 72%
5 312 49%, 6-10 5 138
21%, 40 29% ( 2-4 ).
, , LG , , , ,
10 127 199 65%
5 82 42%, 6-10 5 45
23%, 40 35% ( 2-5 ).
-
- 46 -
< 2-5> (2002 3 )
, , LG , , , ,
9 82 100
82% 5 64 62%, 6-9 4 18
18%, 18% . , 26
26%
( 2-6 ).
< 2-6> (2002 3 )
-
- 47 -
, LG , , , , ,
10 241
330 72% 5 180 54%, 6-10
5 61 18%, 89 28%
( 2-7 ).
< 2-7> (2002 3 )
-
- 48 -
4.
.
1, 2 , ,
.
(OTC)
, .
. ,
(PL)
.
EU,
,
(Cosmeceuticals)
.
,
EU
.
-
- 49 -
.
, , ,
, 5
2001 .
< 2-3> 30
1 91.7
2
89.4
3 / 86.9
4 84.5
5 84.2
6 in vivo 84.0
7 83.7
8 81.1
9 81.0
10 80.7
11 , , , 80.8
12 79.7
-
- 50 -
13 7.3
14 77.2
15 ( ), 77.2
16
76.7
17 76.6
18 Time Releasing System 76.1
19
76.1
20 Active Ingredient 76.1
21 , ,
76.1
22 75.0
23 74.5
24 in vitro 74.5
25 Telomere 73.9
26 in vitro 73.9
27
73.9
28 72.9
29 72.2
30 , ,
72.3
, ,
, 4 113
45 ( 40%), 42 ( 37%), 13
( 11.5%), 13 ( 11.5%) .
-
- 51 -
( 92%), / ( 87%),
( 84%) 3
( 89%),
( 86%) 2 5 ( 2-3
).
,
49% .
10
inn vitro ( 71%),
( 69%) ( 2-4 ) 10
( 29%),
( 36%) ( 2-5 ).
< 2-4> 10
(%)
1 in vitro 70.9
2 68.8
3 64.8
4 in vitro 64.7
5 free radical
64.1
6 63.8
7 ( ), 60.4
8 Active Ingredient 60.0
9 60.0
10 in vivo 59.6
-
- 52 -
< 2-5> 10
(%)
1 70.9
2 68.8
3 Telomere 64.8
4 64.7
5 64.1
6 63.8
7 Pilosebaneous unit 60.4
8 60.0
9 60.0
10 59.6
5.
[ (2001-2025)]
113 2009 3
2005 86% ( 2-6 ). ,
13 2005
.
-
- 53 -
< 2-6>
113
23 10
(0 ),
(0 ), (0 )
( 2-7 ) 10
(4 ), (4 ),
(3 ) ( 2-8 ).
5 , 3
.
-
- 54 -
< 2-7> 10
( ) ( ) ( )
1
5 5 0
2
5 5 0
3 5 5 0
4
5 5 0
5 4 4 0
6
5 5 0
7
4 4 0
8
5 5 0
9 ( ),
5 5 0
10 , , ,
3 3 0
< 2-8> 10
( ) ( ) ( )
1
7 3 4
2 9 5 4
3 6 3 3
4
8 5 3
5 7 5 2
6 30-40
5 3 2
7
,
,
8 6 2
8 5 3 2
9
5 3 2
10
7 5 2
-
- 55 -
3
(Patent Mapping)
, 20 ,
.
1.
2 2 2
2 1) , ,
,
.
1)
,
,
,
-
- 56 -
< 3-1>
(2001. 12. 31 )
2001
KUPA 1983 746.469 2 2001.11.30 86,140
EUPA
1976 1.763,469 2001.12.27 237,871
JEPA 1978 5.460,769 2001.12.08 326,102
USPA 1976 2,566,147 2001.12.18 181,898
(http://www.kisti.re.kr/) ( ), 1980 2001
. , , , , < 3-2>
. , A61K-007
(IPC) .
, ,
. ,
18 , 2000
.
-
- 57 -
< 3-2>
( ) ( )
/
#1 adj ?
#2 ? and ( ? or ?
or ?)
#3 ?
#4 ? or ? or ?
or ? or A61K-007?
#5 ? or ? or ? or
?
#6 ? or uv? or ? or ? or
? or ? or ? or ? or
? or ? or ? or
? or ?
#7 ? or ? or ? or
? or ? or ? or
?
#8 #4 and (#5 or #6 or #7)
#9 #1 or #2 or #3 or #8
/
#1 whitening? or melanin? or
tyrosinase or depigment? or wrinkl? or
ageing or aging or anti-wrinkl? or
anti-ageing or anti-aging or collagen
or uv? or ultraviolet or ultra-violet or
suntan? or sun-tan? or tanning or
sunblock? or sun-block? or sunscreen
?
#2 (anti adj wrinkl?) or (anti adj
ageing)or (anti adj ageing) or (ultra adj
violet) or (sun adj tan) or (sun adj
block?) or (light adj screen?) or (sun
adj screen?)
#3 cosmetic?2 or make-up or makeup
or(make adj up) or A61K-007?
#4 (#1 or #2) and #3
#5 cosmeceutical?
#6 functional adj cosmetic?
#7 #4 or #5 or #6
6,782 ,
, (
)
6,574
.
-
- 58 -
2.
.
(1)
.
(IPC) A61K-007( )
.
< 3-1>
-
- 59 -
< 3-1> 1980
, 20 7% ,
12% . 1980
5% 1990
10%
.
(2)
< 3-2> .
,
, ,
. 1980 ,
90 90
.
< 3-2> ( )
-
- 60 -
, 90
, 90
.
90 .
(3)
< 3-3> , , , ( ),
,
, , .
80 90
.
< 3-3> ( )
-
- 61 -
< 3-4> / ( )
< 3-4>
. ,
, , .
,
. ,
, .
-
- 62 -
(4)
< 3-5> ,
( ) 677 , ( ), ( ),
( ) 300 ,
, ( ), ( )
, ( )
, ,
.
< 3-5> ( )
-
- 63 -
(5) (IPC)
(IPC) < 3-6> .
IPC ,
,
A61K-007 67.6%
, .
A61K-007 IPC ,
A61K-007/00( ) 28.5% , A61K-007/42(
)
24.8%, A61K-007/48( ) 20.4%
. IPC
(A61K-007/06), (A61K-007/02),
(A61K-007/50) ,
.
< 3-6> (IPC) ( )
-
- 64 -
.
(1)
< 3-7> .
,
.
< 3-7> ( )
-
- 65 -
, 531 ,
1985
, 1980 5 90
.
(IMF) ,
,
90 .
.
, , , ,
. ,
90 90
.
.
-
- 66 -
< 3-8> ( ) ( )
< 3-9> / ( )
-
- 67 -
< 3-9>
. ,
,
,
, , .
3
.
(2)
, < 3-10> LG
( ) 83 , ( ), ( ),
( ) , 10 57%
100 ,
. ,
, LG 15%, 12%
. LG ,
, , ,
10 ,
.
.
-
- 68 -
< 3-10> ( )
5
, < 3-11> LG 80
, 90 ,
5~6
.
, .
-
- 69 -
< 3-11> ( )
, 10 , < 3-12>
LG , , 3
,
.
(KFDA)
, 2000 7
, ,
(KFDA)
, SPF40, 21
SPF40, SPF40 3
.
-
- 70 -
< 3-12> / ( )
(3)
< 3-13> ,
6:4 .
, 11.1% ,
9.8% , , 3 .
-
- 71 -
< 3-13> ( )
< 3-14> ( )
, < 3-14> 90
, 90
.
10
,
,
.
-
- 72 -
(4) (IPC)
(IPC) < 3-15>
. IPC IPC
, , A61K-007 ,
A61K-007/42( ),
A61K-007/48( ), A61K-007/40(
), A61K-007/00(
), A61K-007/16( ( ) ) , IPC
,
IPC
.
< 3-15> (IPC) ( )
-
- 73 -
(5)
< 3-3>
. ,
.
, .
, , , , , , , ,
, , , , , , , ,
, , , ,
, ,
.
, , , , , ,
, , ,
, A , , .
, ,
,
.
-
- 74 -
< 3-3> ( )
No
1 KR1998-0706
136
KR2994
98
( )
2 KR1999-0010
043
KR2981
32
( )
3 KR1998-0049
026
KR2956
23
( ) -1, 6-
- -1, 3-
-1, 6- - -1, 3-
4 KR1997-0708
458
KR2955
61
NV(
)
5 KR1998-0037
134
KR2953
03
SA(
)
/
/
6 KR1998-0032
197
KR2949
46
( )
7 KR1999-0010
994
KR2853
96
( ) ,
8 KR1997-0058
585
KR2810
11
( )
9 KR1998-0015
546
KR2808
98
SA(
)
/
10 KR1996-0010
469
KR2802
34
( )
11 KR1995-0033
147
KR2802
42
SA(
)
-
- 75 -
No
12 KR1999-0003
398
KR2796
94
( )
13 KR1998-0005
788
KR2793
93
SA(
)
, /
14 KR1998-0009
013
KR2787
47
( ) -
15 KR1997-0703
743
KR2776
03
SA(
)
TiO2
-
16 KR1998-0002
960
KR2753
18
SA(
)
2
17 KR1998-0700
251
KR2750
22
SA(
)
18 KR1998-0049
138
KR2724
63
( )
19 KR1997-0077
010
KR2650
89
( )
20 KR1997-0047
259
KR2605
10
(
)
21 KR1997-0073
455
KR2586
13
( )
22 KR1998-0004
541
KR2549
64
(
)
,
-
- 76 -
No
23 KR1997-0047
853
KR2547
94
( )
24 KR1997-0047
260
KR2538
42
(
)
25 KR1997-0047
261
KR2538
43
(
)
26 KR1997-0053
175
KR2534
22
( )
27 KR1993-0017
021
KR2518
13
( )
28 KR1999-0006
060
KR2483
21
SA(
)
TiO2
-
29 KR1997-0705
029
KR2467
02
( ),
( )
,
30 KR1997-0070
014
KR2457
97
( )
31 KR1997-0056
561
KR2453
91
( )
32 KR1997-0031
102
KR2453
90
( )
33 KR1997-0012
542
KR2440
52
SA(
)
,
34 KR1992-0004
183
KR2403
54
(
)
35 KR1997-0034
530
KR2363
04
( )
36 KR1997-0032
804
KR2363
03
( )
-
- 77 -
No
37 KR1995-0044
248
KR2363
88
( )
38 KR1996-0707
596
KR2337
04
SA(
)
/
39 KR1997-0047
258
KR2301
30
(
)
40 KR1997-0012
797
KR2298
14
( )
41 KR1996-0069
908
KR2296
96
SA(
)
42 KR1992-0013
409
KR2288
85
(
)
-
43 KR1996-0032
842
KR2247
32
( )
44 KR1995-0011
466
KR2214
12
SA(
)
45 KR1995-0040
154
KR2179
67
SA(
)
,
46 KR1995-0041
701
KR2179
68
SA(
)
47 KR1996-0071
916
KR2164
29
( )
48 KR1996-0069
542
KR2065
38
( )
49 KR1996-0072
391
KR2054
99
( ) ,
50 KR1996-0072
476
KR2023
72
( )
-
- 78 -
No
51 KR1995-0008
122
KR2020
58
( )
52 KR1997-0028
439
KR2005
34
( )
53 KR1996-0068
303
KR1985
08
( ) -
54 KR1996-0006
495
KR1940
58
( ),
( )
55 KR1996-0007
141
KR1909
92
( )
56 KR1996-0007
791
KR1909
93
( )
,
57 KR1996-0007
789
KR1909
89
( )
,
58 KR1996-0020
076
KR1908
67
( )
59 KR1995-0048
782
KR1903
37
SA(
)
,
60 KR1996-0038
49
KR1879
00
( ) 3-
61 KR1998-0034
394
KR1842
44
(
)
-
62 KR1996-0073
859
KR1811
03
( )
-
- 79 -
No
63 KR1996-0072
388
KR1811
04
( )
64 KR1996-0057
166
KR1811
05
( )
65 KR1996-0007
982
KR1806
87
( )
66 KR1995-0066
679
KR1806
84
( )
67 KR1996-0007
792
KR1806
88
( )
,
68 KR1996-0007
790
KR1806
89
( )
,
69 KR1996-0012
137
KR1770
18
( )
70 KR1998-0032
748
KR1769
56
( )
-
71 KR1995-0004
741
KR1762
80
SA(
)
72 KR1995-0050
709
KR1752
10
( )
73 KR1996-0048
938
KR1741
65
( ) 3-
74 KR1996-0043
717
KR1734
11
( )
-
- 80 -
No
75 KR1998-0011
088
KR1734
35
( )
4 - - - -
76 KR1995-0040
155
KR1716
87
SA(
)
77 KR1995-0034
187
KR1716
86
SA(
)
78 KR1995-0054
466
KRl7057
3
( )
79 KR1995-0023
734
KR1690
12
( )
80 KR1995-0023
733
KR1690
11
( )
81 KR1995-0023
732
KR1690
10
( )
82 KR1995-0033
632
KR1690
06
( )
83 KR1995-0015
911
KR1687
06
SA(
)
84 KR1995-0014
645
KR1687
05
SA(
)
85 KR1995-0046
122
KR1638
34
( )
86 KR1995-0055
242
KR1639
42
( )
87 KR1995-0046
167
KR1635
14
( )
88 KR1990-0001
111
KR1631
71
( )
,
,
,
,
-
- 81 -
No
89 KR1990-0011
995
KR1626
43
( )
90 KR1995-0041
933
KR1622
82
( )
91 KR1995-0037
610
KR1622
81
( )
92 KR1996-0003
394
KR1612
21
( )
93 KR1998-0011
089
KR1581
02
( )
- - -
94 KR1996-0007
925
KR1570
25
( )
95 KR1995-0004
638
KR1569
94
SA(
)
96 KR1995-0020
210
KR1543
66
( )
97 KR1990-0020
437
KR1525
26
&
NC(
)
98 KR1995-0003
065
KR1516
34
SA(
)
/
,
99 KR1995-0002
366
KR1516
35
SA(
)
,
100 KR1994-0020
602
KR1502
71
( )
-
- 82 -
No
101 KR1994-0012
563
KR1474
12
( )
102 KR1995-0005
996
KR1462
21
( ) A
103 KR1995-0007
074
KR1416
17
( )
104 KR1995-0003
013
KR1373
08
( )
105 KR1994-0015
712
KR1285
19
( )
106 KR1994-0015
711
KR1285
18
( )
107 KR1993-0018
831
KRl187
69
( )
108 KR1994-0008
411
KR1202
77
( ) 4- -5- -3H-
109 KR1993-0028
783
KR1220
94
( )
,
, , , , , ,
, , , , , , , , , , , , ,
, , , , , , , , , , , ,
, .
, , -20- , ,
.
-
- 83 -
, , , , , ,
, , , , , , , ,
.
, - ,
.
.
(1)
( )
, < 3-16>
.
, .
,
.
-
- 84 -
< 3-16> ( )
1980
, .
1990
.
.
.
( )
, < 3-17>
136 .
2 . 10
.
,
.
-
- 85 -
< 3-17> ( )
Proctor, Tristrata Technology ,
20 9 .
.
8 ,
.
-
- 86 -
( ) /
< 3-18>
.
, 80 , 43 ,
13 .
,
.
3 Tristrata Technology 55
54 .
R&D
. 6 Richardson
.
< 3-18> / ( )
-
- 87 -
, 8 22
.
(2)
( ) ( )
, < 3-19>
.
, .
, ,
.
.
< 3-19> ( )
-
- 88 -
1980
, .
.
1990
.
( )
, < 3-20>
.
178 , 63
2 , 52 3 , 33 4
.
1 .
,
.
-
- 89 -
< 3-20> ( )
,
.
.
( ) /
< 3-21>
.
, 117 , 37 ,
24 .
. 52
26 , 17 , 9
.
-
- 90 -
< 3-21> / ( )
, , , ,
.
,
, .
(3)
( ) ( )
, < 3-22>
3 4 , 7 .
.
-
- 91 -
< 3-22> ( )
1980 , 1980
.
3,748 1,508 , 1,230 ,
1,010 , .
.
,
,
.
-
- 92 -
, 1996 .
,
.
( )
, < 3-23>
. 613 1 ,
337 , 336 . 71
9 .
< 3-23> ( )
-
- 93 -
, .
.
3
9 , 1 .
( ) /
< 3-24>
. 613
, 274 ,
170 , 169 .
.
< 3-24> / ( )
-
- 94 -
, 110 73 ,
68 41 .
. .
3.
80
, , 10
.
, ,
,
, , , , , , , ,
,
.
-
- 95 -
,
.
, ( ), , ,
, , , , , ,
.
,
.
.
,
.
. ( -HA) (EGF)
.
,
.
.
-
- 96 -
,
.
,
.
-
- 97 -
4
1.
.
, , , , , , ,
, , , 11
. 2001 , ,
52.1% , (18.0%) (14.7%)
. ,
,
. ,
.
,
. , ,
(Kligman) cosmetic pharamaceutical
, cosmeceutical .
-
- 98 -
,
, .
2000 7 1 ,
, , .
,
. ,
, .
,
.
< 4-1>
EU
/
/
( )
( )
( )
( ) ( ) ( )
( ) ( ) ( ) ( )
: 2001 9
-
- 99 -
. ,
.
,
.
,
, .
, ,
.
.
.
Key
PLC( )
: :
,
,
3 70%
-
- 100 -
< 4-1>
(1)
1985-1995 8 ,
7 . 1985 1.5% 1995 18.9%
, 68.7 181.8 .
2)
3) .
2
.
2) ,
3)
-
- 101 -
< 4-2>
(2)
,
, GDP
.
2001 GDP 4) 2.9%, CIS5) 2.3%, 2.8%
, 12% , 55.0%
. ,
, GDP ,
.
4)
5)
-
- 102 -
< 4-3>
, 3
. 1992 ,
.
1992 , 1989 0.79%,
1990 0.82%, 1991 0.82%, 1992 0.84% . 1993
1993 0.83%, 1994 0.85%, 1995 0.84%, 1996
0.83%, 1997 0.85% , 1994~1998 CAGR 2.8%
.
-
- 103 -
< 4-4> ( )
,
, .
,
.
(3) (oligopoly) : ,
. : ,
, : , , . :
, AS, , , .
-
- 104 -
< 4-5> ( )
100 ( ) , LG , 3
70% , (oligopoly) .
3 54.3%
.
-
- 105 -
< 4-2>
-
- 106 -
< 4-6>
(kinked demand curve)
,
. Q0 , Q0
, Q0 .
2.
.
(1)
, , 1980
15 .
-
- 107 -
< 4-7>
30~39 50~69 .
,
,
.
(2)
1999 9 7 ,
, 6) .
6) 1999. 9. 7, 6025
-
- 108 -
( )
( )
7) 8) ,
.
,
.
,
.
(3) OPEN PRICE
97. 5. 21 ( ) ,
( ) ,
(OPEN PRICE ) .
7) 2000. 6. 27, 16869
8) 2000. 7. 19
-
- 109 -
< 4-3>
,
( )
,
, ,
,
30~80% ,
, .
,
.
, , , ,
.
-
- 110 -
< 4-8>
- , -
, -
.
.
(1)
-
- 111 -
, 99
. ,
10% .
,
. ( ) 2000 15.93%,
70.14% 107.24% , ( )
10.87%, 1.86%, 2.11% . , , ,
.
.
.
, OEM
.
,
, .
< 4-4>
-
- 112 -
(2)
Big3 , LG ,
3.0%~4.5% R&D . ,
5.0~6.0% R&D , & R&D 10% .
5.5%
5 , 3 .
, , Crystal Some
3 ( ) .
< 4-9> R&D
-
- 113 -
,
. ,
, .
,
.
(3)
.
,
.
, .
,
.
, ,
,
, , ,
, , ,
.
.
-
- 114 -
3.
.
(1)
2000 29,955 10 CAGR 4.4%
. 2000 2,965
9% .
< 4-10> vs ( )
-
- 115 -
< 4-11> ( )
1990 5% 10 2 ,
.
Skin Care 61%, Hair Care 15%, Professional 6%, Other
18% .
< 4-5> ( )
-
- 116 -
< 4-6> (million $)
-
- 117 -
Allergan, Avon Products, Beiersdorf, Estee
Lauder, Johnson & Johnson, Kao, LOreal, Procter &
Gamble, Revlon & Unilever
10 20 , Merck
Pharmacia 2 .
(2)
,
1999 3 .
, ,
. ,
,
.
2001 ,
, .
.
(SkinCare), (SkinCare), UV
2000 309,590 (SkinCare),
(SkinCare) 80% . Skin Care Cleansing
Whitening/Antiaging
.
-
- 118 -
< 4-12> ( )
< 4-7> ( )
-
- 119 -
.
20%
. 2000 3 1 2001 4
, , 50% .
2000
, .
,
.
< 4-13> ( )
-
- 120 -
< 4-8> ( )
< 4-14> ( )
-
- 121 -
2000 , , 3,125
. 3 1,500 , 1,036 ,
589 .
55.0% , 2005
20%( ) 20% CAGR .
, , LG ,
. 3 (2001. 5. 1 )
.
< 4-9> ( )
- Q10
. 1
3
,
2500
MDC
.45ml
6
7ml6
, 12 ,
, ,
: (2001.5.1 ),
-
- 122 -
,
: (2001.5.1 ),
LG
,
,
15g
45ml
, LG
35ml
, ,
15g
A ,
, 3
45ml
, A 5.5g
35ml
A ,
45ml
A ,
45ml
: (2001.5.1 ),
-
- 123 -
365
(SPF35, PA+++),
,80g
45ml
UV , UV
55ml
60ml
40ml
110ml
A B 80g
60ml
100ml
60ml
. 120 55ml
( )
60ml
,
UV-A
SPF+
60ml
: (2001.5.1 ),
-
- 124 -
A3F[on]
MME
50ml
MME
25ml
(SPF30) 80ml
(SPF12) 60g
(SPF26)
,
35g
(SPF26)
13g
UV
(SPF24)
35g
(SPF24)
,
,14g
(SPF30)
,
80g
(SPF12)
35g
(SPF30)
,
60g
(SPF15)
,
40g
(SPF28) 12g
: (2001.5.1 ),
-
- 125 -
.
, 2000~2005 7.6%,
2006~2010 7.4% CAGR .
2000 29,955 ,
2,965 9.9% . 5 20%
, 42 .
< 4-10> ( )
, CAGR 55.0%
CAGR 12~20%
.
-
- 126 -
< 4-11> ( )
< 4-15> ( )
.
(1)
,
, .
-
- 127 -
< 4-12> , Matrix
/
GDP
M&
A
e-
busi
nes
s
+ -
PLC + 0 0 0 + - 0 0 0 + + 4 1
0 0 0 0 0 - + 0 0 + 0 2 1
0 + - + 0 0 + - 0 + 0 4 2
Open Price 0 0 0 + 0 + 0 0 0 + + 4 -
0 0 0 0 0 + 0 0 0 + + 3 -
+ + 0 - + 0 + - 0 0 0 1 1
0 0 0 0 0 + 0 - 0 0 0 1 1
0 + 0 0 0 + + 0 0 + + 5 -
(
)0 + + + 0 0 0 + 0 + 0 5 -
0 + + + 0 0 + + 0 + 0 6 -
Oligopoly 0 0 0 0 0 - + 0 0 + 0 2 1
(
)
0 + 0 - 0 - - - 0 0 - 1 5
0 0 0 0 0 + 0 0 + + + 4 -
0 0 0 0 0 + 0 0 + 0 + 3 -
: KISTI
Trend
E-Business
OEM
-
- 128 -
(2)
( ) Trend
(Skincare) : ,
.
, 20 .
< 4-16> (Skin care) Trends
-
- 129 -
(Skincare) : 20 30
, 40 ~50
.
< 4-17> (Skincare) Trends
-
- 130 -
(UV Whitening: Base makeup) : ,
. UV
, , 4
.
< 4-18> (Base makeup) Trends
-
- 131 -
(UV Whitening: Base makeup) : Body make-up
,
.
- : ,
, .
< 4-19> (Base makeup) Trends
-
- 132 -
- : ,
.
- , : -
, ,
.
- : ,
. , UV
.
( )
, , ,
.
, , ,
.
,
, , . , E Business
,
.
-
- 133 -
< 4-20> ( )
< 4-21> ( )
-
- 134 -
< 4-22> ( )
( )
, ,
(CRT) ,
, .
, 21%
.
32.5% 18% 3,198
28% 971 .
-
- 135 -
< 4-23> ( )
1 Shisseido, Noevia,
Avon Prod, Mandam (98 ) Shisseido 6.6%,
Noevia 4.1%, Avon Prod 1.8%, Mandam 12.1% , 2001
15.9% . 53.3% Shisseido 51.7%,
Noevia 64.3%, Avon Prod 60.6%, Mandam 44%
. ,
8.1% Shisseido 7.8%, Noevia 6.2%, Mandam 8.2% ,
2001 9.9% .
, 99 1
( 99-000049 ) EGF
, 10% .
, ,
.
-
- 136 -
< 4-24>
( ) OEM
OEM .
,
-
- 137 -
. , OEM
,
.
. OEM
.
-
- 138 -
5
3~5 ,
,
.
< 5-1> PLC
-
- 139 -
, , , , , , ,
, , ,
.
Life Cycle 2 50%
.
< 5-2> Position
-
- 140 -
, .
, ,
, .
, ,
, , , ,
.
3
.
,
.
-
- 141 -
1. , 24(2), 1998.
2. , , 2001. 5
3. , ,
4. ,
5. ,
6. ( 6153 )
7. ( 16869 )
8. ( 163 )
9. (2001. 9. 26., )
10. ( 145 )
11. ( 19 )
12. ( 46 )
13. 2 2 ( 14 )
14. ( 322 )
15. ( 163 )
16. ( 990
)
17. , , Fragrance Journal, 1999. 5,
p.14-19, 1999
18. , , Fragrance
Journal, no. 16, p.88-97, 1999
-
- 142 -
19. , - , , 25(4),
p.217-221, 2001
20. , , Fragrance Journal, 2002. 2,
p.18-26, 2002
21. , , , 74(4), p.366-371, 2001
22. , , Fragrance Journal, 2001. 1,
p.17-21, 2001
23. , , , Fragrance Journal,
2000. 12, p.38-42, 2000
24. , ( ) , , 24(2), p.115-119, 2000
25. , , , 74(4), p.205-210, 2001
26. , , , 25(4), p.241-243, 2001
27. , , , 74(5), p.247-257, 2001
28. , , , 25(4), p.232-239, 2001
29. , , , Fragrance Journal,
2002. 1, p.13-16, 2002
30. , , Fragrance Journal,
2002, 1, p.17-20, 2002
31. , , Fragrance Journal, 2002. 1,
p.21-25, 2002
32. , , , Fragrance Journal,
2002. 1, p.26-33, 2002
-
- 143 -
33. , , , Fragrance Journal, 2001.
1, p.29-32, 2002
34. , , Fragrance Journal, 2001. 1.
p.33-36, 2002
35. , , , Fragrance
Journal, 2001. 1, p.37-40, 2001
36. , , , Fragrance Journal, 2000.
9, p.16-23, 2000
37. , : , , 24(1), p.21-28,
2000
38. , , , 24(1), p.46-50, 2000
39. CMC, , 2001. 6.
40. Fedral Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act
41. Vermeer, Bert J., Cosmeceutical: A proposal for rational
definition, evaluation,
and regulation, Arch. Dermatol., 132, p.337-340, 1996
42. Kligman, Doughs, Cosmeceutical, Dermatologic Clinics, 18(4),
p.609 -615,
2000
43. Millikan, Larry E., Cosmetology, Cosmetics, Cosmeceuticals :
Definitions and
Regulations, Clinics in Dermatology, 19, p.371-374, 2001
44. Millikan, Larry E., The Cosmetic/Drug Dilemma: FDA
Regulation of
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids, Food and Drug Law Journal, 52, p.357-375,
1997
45. Lin, Josep T., Global Cosmetics Trends and Cosmeceuticals
for 21st Century
Asia, Scientific Conference Asia Societies of Cosmetic
Scientists 3rd., p.13-17,
1997
-
- 144 -
46. Wittern, Klaus-Peter, Cosmeceuticals from european
perspective, Advanced
Technology Conference Proceedings, p.24-25, 1996
47. Steinberg, D., Cosmeceuticals: An American Pespective,
Advanced Technology
Conference Proceedings., p.26-29, 1996
48, Takamatsu, T., How can we define cosmeceuticals?, Advanced
Technology
Conference Proceedings, p.30-36, 1996
49. Bailey John E., Cosmeceuticals, Toxicology Forum, Annual
Winter Meeting,
p.239-246, 1995
50. FDA, Office of Cosmetics and Colors Fact Sheet, Cosmetic
vs.
Over-the-Counter Drug, April 10, 2000
51. The Freedonia Group, Cosmeticals to 2005, 2002
52. Thomas L. Wheelen & J.David Hunger, Strategic Management
and Business
Policy, 2001
53. Market Report, intelligence on the Cosmetics Market in
Japan, August 2001
Vol.3
54. JETRO, Yearbook of Chemical Industries, Japan Exports and
Imports 2000
55. JETRO, Japanese Market Report 2000.3
56. ( ) - 2001 2001
57. , , 2001
58. , , 2001
59. , , 2002.1.21
60. , , 2001
61. , Good Morning Monthly 2002.1
62. http://healthgulde.kihasa.re.kr/kor/statistics
-
- 145 -
63. , 2001.9
64. , 1998
65. National Statistical Office, The Future Estimated
Population, 1996.
-
- 146 -
1 1. 2. 3. 2 1. . . . 2. . . 3. . . . 4. . . 5. 3 1. 2. . . . 3. 4
1. . . 2. . . 3. . . . . 5
