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Page 1: 请点此处下载FOOD TO CHINA 杂志

FOOD TO CHINA, TASTE FROM WORLD

French foods: Belief and Piety from the Gourmet Kingdom

Searching for the Delicacy in Truffle SeasonWorld’s Top Ten Oysters

TO CHINAFOOD

RMB 30 / US $5

Page 2: 请点此处下载FOOD TO CHINA 杂志

中国饮食文化博大精深,源远流长。经过历史和岁月的沉淀,如今,作为“衣食住行”四大基本生

存要义中的“食”,于中国人而言,早已超出了它本身单纯为满足生理需要的范畴,而有了更为深刻的

社会意义与文化意义。

孔子说:食不厌精,脍不厌细。数千年来,这种求精意识作为一种文化传统越来越广泛、越来越深

入地渗透、贯彻到中国人的整个饮食活动过程中,不仅成就了一个举世闻名的美食大国,更培养了国人

对于饮食高标准的品位与追求。

在这种文化的滋养下,近年来有越来越多包装精美、品质精良的进口食品渐渐受到中国人的青睐,

并由此逐步培养出一个商机无限、前景广阔的市场。

而跨境电商作为一支日益壮大的生力军,正以不容忽视的力量在市场竞争中彰显着存在感。今年初

刚开业的岭南海淘,背靠华南地区规模最大的岭南电商产业园,首创新颖的“O2O+CBD”模式,不但为

跨境电商提供更为优良的经营环境,也为打造更为规范的行业生态作出不懈努力。我们的宗旨,与《FOOD

TO CHINA》杂志的理念不谋而合——相信,“链接全球,美味中国”不会是遥不可及的梦想。

China’s dietary culture is extensive and profound. As time goes by, food, one of basic necessities of life, has

already gone beyond its simple function of meeting physiological need and developed a more profound social

and cultural meaning.

Confucius once said, “Eat no rice but is of the finest quality, nor meat but is finely minced”. For thousands of

years, this sense of refinement, as a cultural tradition, has penetrated into Chinese people’s diet activities widely

and deeply, which makes China a world-famous gourmet country and Chinese people with good taste and high

pursuit of diet.

Nurtured by such culture of refinement, in recent years more and more imported food with exquisite packaging

and excellent quality has gained the favor of Chinese people, and thus gradually wins a promising market full of

business opportunities.

In this food market, cross-border e-commerce is a growing force that cannot be ignored. Backed by Lingnan

International Electronic Commerce Industrial Park (the biggest in South China), Lingnan Haitao, opened

earlier this year, initiates the new “O2O+CBD” mode, which not only provides a better business environment for

cross-border e-commerce, but also makes unremitting efforts to build a more normalized industry ecosystem.

The principle of the business meets with the philosophy of FOOD TO CHINA, and it is believed that “food to

China, taste from world” is an achievable dream.

欧阳州勇 Terry 广州市岭南电子商务产业园有限公司 董事 / 副总经理

Vice General Manager, Guangzhou Ling Nan E-commerce Park

Preface 卷首语

FOOD TO CHINA 1

Page 3: 请点此处下载FOOD TO CHINA 杂志

版权及免责声明:

Copyright & Disclaimer:

本杂志中所有文字及图片资料的版权属于原作者,任何单位及个人未经许可,不得转载。本杂志除原创外的部分编译内容及图片,如有涉及到版权问题,请原作者与我们联系。The copyrights of all texts and photos in this magazine belong to the original author, all rights reserved.Any other edited contents, If involved in any copyright issues, please contact us.

主办:广州福图喜纳网络科技有限公司支持 & 指导单位:广东省进口食品协会

专业委员会:广东省电子商务商会广东省跨境电子商务行业协会广州市跨境电商行业协会广东省冷链协会广州空港物流协会艾黛利咖啡商学院

战略合作:广州国际特色食品饮料展览会意大利中小食品制造商联合会意大利米兰国际食品展米兰国际酒店用品展

发行人:綦宜龙主编:杨涛资深编辑:陈庆梅

运营总监 & 视觉编辑:黄景琨品牌推广:李晓燕

直邮发行渠道:

国内国内进口商;国内渠道商;商超酒店;海外贸易公司;电商及跨国公司、协会组织;第三方服务商;各国驻华领事馆;各国驻华贸易机构 / 商会 / 行业协会;

海外海外生产商 / 协会;相关协会及组织机构;

订阅及合作,请联系:地址:广东省广州市德政北路 538 号达信大厦 1904 室网站:www.gdifa.org.cn电话:+86 20 8382 3011 邮箱:[email protected]

Sponsor: Guangzhou Food2China Network Technology Co., Ltd.Supported & guided by: Guangdong (China) Imported Food Association

Professional BoardGuangdong Chamber of E-commerce

Guangdong Cross-Border E-commerce Industry AssociationGuangzhou Cross-Border E-commerce Industry Association

Guangdong Cold Chain AssociationGuangzhou Aviation Logistic Association

Adalee Coffee Management College

Strategy Partners:FHW China

UnionAlimentariTUTTOFOODHOST Milano

Publisher: Wolfgang QiChief Editor: Catherine Yang

Senior Editor: Margaret Chen

Operation Director & Art Editor: Queenie HuangBranding: Yan Li

Direct Mailing:

China Chinese Importers;

Chinese Wholesaler Distributers;Supermarkets/Hotels/Catering;

Overseas Trading Companies;E-commerce/Multinational Cooperation / Associations;

Third Party Service Suppliers;Foreign Consulate in China

Foreign Trading Office/Chamber of Commerce/Associations in China;

OverseasProducer Associations;

Concerning Associations & Organizations;

Contact: Rm.1904, DS Building, No.538, Dezheng Bei Road, Guangzhou, Guangdong

Website: www.gdifa.org.cnTel: +86 20 8382 3011

Email: [email protected]

TO CHINAFOOD2016 年 11 月 Nov. 2016

进口食品

FOOD TO CHINA 32 FOOD TO CHINA

COVER STORY 封面故事法国食品:来自美食王国的信仰与虔诚French foods: Belief and Piety from the Gourmet Kingdom

P4

Food Detectives 食品侦探P59

P38 Top 10 榜单亲吻大海的味道:全球十大名蚝赏鉴

Savor the Taste of the Sea and Appreciate

the World’s Top Ten Oysters

TopTaste 高端食材松露季,寻找那上帝种下的美味

Searching for the Delicacy Planted by God

in Truffle Season

P51

Policy 政策解读Ten New Food Additives to be Approved in China

Infant Formula Production set to see Major Changes

P68

Exhibitions 会展第五届广州国际特色食品饮料展览会顺利闭幕

FHW CHINA 2016 Successfully Concluded

P64

Wine land 酒国梅多克 - 中国十年

Medoc – 10 years in China

P28

电子杂志展阅平台 :

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FOOD TO CHINA 54 FOOD TO CHINA

Cover Story 封面故事

FrenCh Foods: BelieF and Piety From the Gourmet KinGdom 法国食品:来自美食王国的

信仰与虔诚

“你(上帝)把所有最好的东西都给了法国:地中海,大西洋,山脉,

肥沃的山谷,南部的阳光,北方浪漫的冬季,最最优雅的语言,最好的黄油

和橄榄油,世界上最丰富、产量最多的葡萄酒庄,比一年 365 天还要多的奶

酪种类——每一样东西实际上都比人们想要的还多,所有这些都集中在一个

国家里——这公平吗?”英国人彼得 . 梅尔在他的一本关于法兰西美食的书

中语气带酸地写道。

“You (God) give all the best things to France: the Mediterranean, the Atlantic, mountains, fertile valleys, lovely sunshine in the South, romantic winter in the North, the most elegant language, the best butter and olive oil, the most abundant and prolific wineries in the world, various kinds of cheese, whose number is more than 365 days in a year -- everything is more than people want. Is it fair to gather all of them in a country?”, wrote British author Peter Mayle with slight jealousy in one of his book about French delicacies.

的确,上帝给了这个国度让它所有的邻居都

艳羡嫉妒的天然资源,同时也为这个国度培养出

了让它所有的邻居都肃然起敬的对于美食的虔诚

与信仰。在法国,你看不到简陋粗鄙的快餐文化,

法国的食品精雕细琢,极尽考究。法国人的饮食

文化根深蒂固,声名远扬。

法国作为欧洲第一农业大国,农业在社会经

济中一直占据着极高的位置,他们对美食的热爱

也可以说是源自这种农业文化。早在 1998 年,法

国就已经超越美国成为世界上最大的农产食品出

口国,曾占据全球出口市场份额的 10%。如今,

作为世界第三大农产品出口国的法国,其葡萄酒

文化及饮食文化享誉世界。无论对于中国人民还

是世界人民而言,“法国食品”已成了“优雅生活”

的代名词——而这块金字招牌的打造,除了依赖

产品本身的优越品质外,更大程度上,是依赖于

严格的食品安全法律标准以及认证标识体系。

法国早在 1905 年 8 月 1 日就已颁布了有关食

品安全的法律。在认证体系方面,相信所有热爱

法国红酒的人,都必定认得那众所周知的“AOC”

标识。在法国,葡萄酒一直被视为一种农产品,

法国政府为了整顿红酒市场,在 1919 年确立了几

块受法律保护的葡萄酒原产地,即现在常说的“法

定产区”,建立了“原产地命名控制制度”(AOC)

的雏形 , 成为实施原产地保护政策最早的国家。

AOC的标签以及认证制度推动法国红酒名扬世

界。法国农业部开始把这种不断在实践中完善的

制度用在了其他农产品上。直到现在,法国一共

有 430 个农产品原产地受 AOC 的保护,地位极高

的葡萄酒占了 310 项,奶制品占 52 项,其他酒类

占 23 项,蔬果和谷物占 20 项,肉类占 12 项,剩

下的还有水产,蜂蜜等一些小品类,几乎涵盖法

国各类别农产品。

除了原产地保护外,法国还有生态食品(BIO)、

红色标签(Le Label Rouge)以及 CCP产品认证等

统一管理的认证标识。法国政府把食品安全的监

管延伸到了食品生产链条的源头——饲养和种植

领域。加上各个加工和流通环节的监管和追溯环

环相扣,使得最后在流通领域见到的所有认证标

志都有十分强大的安全保障。

目前,法国占据着中国进口食品市场份额的

2.4%,其中以波尔多葡萄酒最受国人欢迎,在法

国进口中国食品中排名第一位,中国也是法国最

大的酒类出口市场。而法国乳制品的进口,也在

去年进口中国的份额上升到第四位。

一大波法国食品相继涌入中国的同时,带来

的不仅仅是挑动舌尖的味蕾刺激,也不仅仅是精

致优雅的生活方式,更重要的,是对于食品品质

的虔诚追求与执着信仰——这,或许才是最值得

同样自诩为“美食王国”的国人思考并学习的。

Indeed, God gives France natural resources envied by all its neighbors,

and at the same time fosters the nation’s piety to and belief in delicacies,

which arouses all its neighbors’ admiration. In France, you can never see

any simple and crude fast food. French foods are delicate and exquisite.

Its food culture is deeply rooted and enjoys a widespread reputation.

France is the largest agricultural country in Europe, whose agriculture

plays a significant role in social economy. This may also be the source of the

popularity of delicacies in France. As early as 1998, France had transcended

America to become the largest exporter of agricultural products in the

world. Its export once accounted for 10% of the global export market.

Nowadays, as the third largest exporter of agricultural products, France

is famous for its cultures of wine and food. For either Chinese or people in

other parts of the world, “French food” has become the representative of

“elegant life”. This “gilded signboard” is forged with not only the superior

quality of French products, but also the strict food safety standards and

authentication system.

As early as August 1, 1905, France had implemented laws regarding food

safety. In terms of authentication system, the identification of “AOC” was

used, which is familiar among French wine connoisseurs. In France, wine

is regarded as an agricultural product. In order to regulate the wine market,

in 1919, the French government established several places of origin of wine

protected by law, which was the rudiment of AOC. France has therefore

become the first country to put into effect this policy.

The label and authentication system of AOC facilitate the French wine

to become famous all over the world. The French Ministry of Agriculture

began to apply this gradually-improved system to other agricultural

products. Until now, France has 430 places of origin of agricultural products

protected by AOC. Among them, 310 are top-level wines, 52 dairy products,

23 other types of alcohol products, 20 vegetables, fruits and cereals, 12

meat products, and aquatic products, honey and so on. Almost all kinds of

agricultural products are covered.

Besides, France also has other authentication systems under unified

management, such as BIO, le Label Rouge and Critical Control Point

(CCP). The French government also extended the supervision system of

food safety to the source of the food production line -- areas of breeding

and planting. Furthermore, the supervision and trace of each processing

and circulation is closely linked with one another. Consequently, all

authentication signs in circulation can effectively protect food safety.

At present, France accounts for 2.4% of China imported food market,

among which the Bordeaux is most popular among the Chinese, ranking

top among imported French foods in China. China is also the largest

importer of French wine. Concerning dairy products, France climbed up

to fourth place in China’s imported food from France last year.

Numerous French foods flow into China in succession. This brings not only

the stimulation to taste bud and the elegant living style, but also the piety to

and belief in food quality, which deserves China who also praises itself as “the

Gourmet Kingdom”, to think of and learn from.

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FOOD TO CHINA 76 FOOD TO CHINA

Cover Story 封面故事

FrenCh Food is an “art oF liFe”法国食品是一种“生活的艺术

Interview访谈

柯柏同

Director of Guangzhou Office, French Embassy in China, French

Trade Commission - Business France

Bertrand Quevremont

法国驻华大使馆商务投资处广州商务处主任

法国食品在全世界久负盛名,从来都是

“高大上”的代名词,其个性与品位,如同

所有被打上“法国制造”印记的产品一样,

总是能轻易赢得眼光最挑剔、口味最刁钻人

士的认同。然而,柯柏同先生却认为,法国

食品与其说是口味“独一无二”,不如说它

其实代表着一种“生活的艺术”——一种品

味美食、享受人生的态度——这才是法国食

品赢得全球青睐的魅力所在。

而在法国商务投资处的助力下,近年来

法国进口食品在中国市场的发展势头迅猛,

让越来越多优质高档的法国食品进入了中国

人的视线与生活,那也意味着,其代表的优

雅法式生活艺术,也将为中国人带来更深层

次的影响。

French food has long enjoyed a good reputation around the globe. It has always been associated with the words “High End” and “Classy”. Like all “Made in France”, it reflects character and taste, which easily wins recognition from even the most fastidious consumers. However, instead of calling it “Unique”, Mr. Bertrand Quevremont rather describe it as an “Art of Life” which is exactly what makes French food so admired around the world.

Thanks to the support from Business France in recent years, French food exports have developed rapidly in China market, which brings more and more high-end French food into the life of Chinese people. Meanwhile the elegant French life style will make deeper impact on Chinese society.

法国商务投资处在中法贸易合作中扮演着怎样的角

色?特别是在法国食品出口这一领域?

法国商务投资处在中国有7个办事处,意在帮助法

国企业在各个领域,如生活消费品、技术、当然还有食品

饮料等方面拓展业务。为此,我们为中法企业组织了一些

B2B的对接会。此外我们还帮助中国公司和中国投资者进

入法国市场。如果他们有计划在法国拓展业务,我们会就

相关法规和合作的机遇给他们提供建议。

法国出口中国食品的构成比例是怎样的?

法国是中国在欧洲最大的食品进口国,占中国食品进

口额的2.4%。2014年法国对华贸易顺差额为15.8亿欧元,

而2011年顺差额为7.36亿欧元。如今法国对华出口还在

持续增长,2015年前4个月出口额已经达到6.91亿欧元,

比上年同期增长63%。2014年法国出口到中国大陆和香港

地区的食品呈稳定状态,总额为21亿欧元,虽然酒类的

出口量下滑了14%(来源:法国海关)。

法国对华出口的良好表现得益于中国对法国酒类(包

括白兰地)、奶制品、谷物、以及肉类的强劲的消费需求。

法国目前仍然是中国酒精饮料的最大的进口国,也是第四

大乳制品进口国。因进口商的囤积和中国法规变得更严格,

2015年第一季度,中国的奶粉进口大幅下跌。

法国食品在全世界久负盛名,它的独特之处在哪

里?

实际上,我不会说它是“独特的”。在欧洲其他国

家和世界各地,我们都能品尝到非常多美味的食物,和

一些地道的本地菜肴。我认为如果真要说法国食品有什

么独特之处,即是其品味食物的方式,这也是我们与中

国人相似的地方。我们喜欢跟朋友和家人聚在一起,享

用美酒与美食。

更具体的说,因为有着的良好资源,我们的食品工

业非常发达,如乳制品、谷物类产品、肉类、鱼,还有

各种各样的葡萄酒都非常丰富。我们非常注重食品卫生

安全,生产过程经过严格系统规范化的检查和监管。

另外,我们有着世界一流的食品企业(达能、拉克

塔利斯……)。

在法国食品出口领域您有发现任何变化趋势吗?过

去最受欢迎的产品有哪些?现在呢?

法国对华出口在持续增长中。 从 10年前开始,我

们在中国的酒类市场就占据着优势地位,现在我们开始

出口越来越多的乳制品、烘焙制品、甜点以及肉类。目

前中国消费者对法国巧克力、果冻、干果和海鲜(生蚝)

也有着极大的兴趣。

对“健康”产品的需求是第一位的,特别是在食品

安全问题之后,作为年老父母唯一孩子的中国中产阶级

的年轻成员愿意为健康花费更多。这一趋势也显示在中

国二线城市中,包括16个最发达省份的省会城市。

目前法国的经济形势不容乐观,这给中法贸易产生

了什么样的影响?

法国经济比之去年正在好转,消费也开始旺盛起来,

人们越来越多地到饭店就餐。此外,由于不断的创新,

食品行业也在持续发展中。

中法两国间的贸易在不断增长。2015年,法国对华

出口额达 22,500,000 欧元(2014年为20,500,000欧元);

出口类别居于首位的是航空产品(空中客车),其次是

酒类,再次是奢侈品。

应该如何努力来改善中法双边贸易合作环境 ?

双边贸易合作主要取决于开放政策。目前两国已经

颁布了许多措施来促进产品的流通,但是与在欧盟境内

的中国企业和中国投资者所享有的条件相比,中国对法

国企业的市场准入限制方面依然存在着很大的改善空间。

大量的法国产品目前仍然被禁止进入中国市场(牛

肉、家禽产品、一些乳制品)。 对法国中小企业来说,

中国法规和市场准入条件几乎难以应对,而与中国政府

机构的谈判则是一个长达几年的漫长过程。比如冷链运

输和市场准入依然是法国食品出口中国面临的最主要的

问题。

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FOOD TO CHINA 98 FOOD TO CHINA

Cover Story 封面故事

products to China and Hong Kong remained stable

at EUR 2.1 billion in 2014, despite a decrease of 14 %

of those wines and spirits that have since also taken

(source: French customs).

These excellent results were achieved thanks to

the high consumer demand for wines and spirits

(including cognac), milk products, cereals and

meats. France remains by far the largest supplier of

alcoholic beverages in China and arrived in 4th place

for dairy products. Circumstantially, milk powder

imports fell sharply in the first quarter of 2015, due

to stock too importers and especially a Chinese

regulations more restrictive.

French food has gain a worldwide reputation since long, what’s unique about it?

Actually I would not say it is “unique”. In other

countries in Europe and the World we can also

appreciate very good products and some typical,

local cuisine and gastronomy. I think what is unique

in France is the “Art de vivre”, the way you enjoy

food. This is something we have in common with

Chinese people. We like to spend time together

with friends and family, having good food and wine.

More specifically, our food industry is very

developed thanks to our resources, for example for

dairy products, cereals, meat, fish…and of course

vineyards. We strongly focus on sanitary safety

of products and we manage it through a specific

system of inspections and regulations.

Then we now have world leaders in food business

(Danone, Lactalis….)

What character does Business France play in Sino French trade cooperation, expecially in the field of food export?

Business France, with 7 offices in China, is here to

help French companies to develop their business, in

various fields of activity like industry, consumer goods,

technologies and, of course, food and beverages. To do

so, we organize some B2B meetings between French and

Chinese companies. Another activity is to help Chinese

companies and investors to go in France. If they have a

project to extend their business in France, we are here

to advise them about regulations and possibilities of

cooperation.

What is the proportion of French food exported to China?

European leader in China, France occupies 2.4% of the

Chinese market for food imports in value. The trade

balance of the food balance between France and China

had a surplus of EUR 1.58 billion in 2014 against EUR

736 million in 2011. Today, the growth of French exports

resumed, reaching EUR 691 million the first 4 months of

2015, up 63% from the first 4 months of 2014. Those on food

您对两国未来食品贸易合作有着怎样的预期,法国

商务投资处是否有计划来实现这一预期?

我相信两国之间的贸易合作将会有很大的增长。需

求摆在那儿,中国消费者对发现新产品有着浓厚的兴趣,

而我们则把法国最美味的食品提供给他们。

我们将继续支持法国产品的进口商和分销商,在展

会和活动中大力宣传和推广法国食品。

Did you find any changing trends in French food exports? What were the most popular products in the past? And how about now?

Our exports to China are continuously

increasing. Since 10 years our position on wine

market is strong but we also export more

and more dairy products, more bakeries and

pastries, and also more meats. We can see now

a lot of interest for chocolates, fruit jams, dry

fruits and seafood (oysters).

The demand for "health" products remains

dominant, particularly following the food

scandals. The "new members" of the Chinese

middle class are still willing to spend more on

welfare as their only child of aging parents.

These trends are reflected in China's secondary

cities, including the capitals of the 16 most

developed provinces in China.

Now the economy situation in France is not optimistic, what kind of impact does it result in import and export trade between two countries?

French economy is going better than last year

and people are consuming more again. They

continue to go to restaurants, eat and drink!!

Thanks to innovation, the food business is also

evolving.

Trade between our two countries continues

to increase. In 2015, France exported a value of

22.5Mds euros (20.5Mds € in 2014); the first

rank is about aeronautics (airbus planes) and

second is wine. Third is all about luxury goods.

What efforts should we take to improve the bilateral trade cooperation environment between China and France?

Bilateral trade cooperation largely depends

on opening-up measures. Some measures

have been taken already to facilitate the flow

of products but there is still a large room for

improvement in terms of market access, for

instance, as compared with the conditions

available for Chinese companies and Chinese investors

inside the EU.

A large number of French products are still forbidden to

enter the Chinese market (beef meat, poultry products,

some dairy products….). Regulations and market

access are nearly impossible to deal with for SME’s and

discussions take years with authorities. Compliance with

the cold chain and market access constraints remain the

most important points to deal with.

What’s your expectation about the future food trade cooperation between two countries? And does Business France have any plan to achieve it?

I am sure the trade cooperation will increase a lot

between our two countries. The demand is here, Chinese

consumers are interested to discover new products and

we are here to provide them the best they can taste from

France.

We will continue to promote French food during events

and exhibitions and by supporting importers and

distributors of French products.

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FOOD TO CHINA 1110 FOOD TO CHINA

Cover Story 封面故事

When was Sopexa China founded and what are its main composition and founctions?Sopexa China was founded in 1998, we are the only

international communication and marketing agency

100% dedicated to Food, Drink & Lifestyle. We started

working mainly for French food & beverages and are now

serving wide ranges of clients from all over the world.

We are strong at followings: customized consulting &

strategy, brand activation & shopper marketing, PR

& Brand Content, Digital Strategy, Events, Health &

Nutrition Strategies. In Greater China, we serve more

than 40 clients from 4 continents, including Africa.

What efforts did Sopexa take to promote French food in China since its establishment? Some impressive events to share with us?

We have 4 agencies in Greater China (PK, SH, CT, HK)

and reach more than 40 cities, in touch with 12.000

trade professionals and 1300 KOLs & media in the Food,

Beverage & Lifestyle sector. We organize hundreds of

events yearly, targeting for instance wine professionals

with a strong focus on training, brand development and

PR field.

What are the main types of French food & beverage exported to China?

Wine & Spirits is a strong sector, but so are dairy

products (cheese, butter & cream, milk, milk powder),

organic fruits & vegetables (apples, kiwi), biscuits,

dressings, meat products that have been recently

introduced to China market, even oysters.

What are the most popular French food & beverage in China market? Some new/potential products that SOPEXA plan to introduce to China market?

Wines and sparkling wines are very popular and gaining

in popularity (e.g. the wines from following regions:

Bordeaux, Rhône Valley Wines, Languedoc, Alsace,

Provence, the Vin de France category, etc.), as well as

spirits such as Cognac (we have a big campaign coming

up for Cognac in the next several months). We introduced

recently a new brand: the French Ham Brocéliande. More

meat products, such as Jambon de Bayonne Ham from

Delpeyrat are entering the market. We also worked on the

development of the Lesieur line of upscale dressings.

Since more and more high-quality foods from other European countries are pilling into China market now, how would French food keep its competitive advantages?

In such a dynamic imported food & beverage market,

we believe there is room for all. France is benefiting from

its strong food culture image and is the leading tourist

destination worldwide, which helps to strengthen its

branding. But other European countries are very active

(including via Sopexa): Spain, Italy, Poland, Germany to

name a few.

With more than 10 years in China, what change of trends in French food exporting market did SOPEXA observed?

The range of products exported is expanding every year

with a middle/upper class always more interested in

tasting new foods (that they discovered while travelling

abroad sometimes). Wine and Spirits, which used to be

reserved mostly for institutional gifts, are now attracting

young affluent urban consumers. That is good news for the

industry.

How would Sopexa China evaluate the market of French food in China in future?

With a smile! We believe there is long term growth

ahead of us, for France, in all food areas, and also for most

countries exporting premium, authentic foods to China.

法国食品协会什么时候成立的?主要构架以及职能是

什么?

法国食品协会成立于 1998年,是唯一一家百分百专

注于食品、饮料和生活方式的国际交流和推广机构。我

们开始主要是推广法国食品和饮料,现在更为来自世界

各地的更广泛的客户提供服务。我们擅长定制化咨询、

品牌活化、顾客营销、公关和品牌营销、数字战略、活

动举办、健康和营养策略。在大中华地区,我们为来自

包括非洲在内的 4 大洲的 40 多个客户提供服务。

自成立以来,法国食品协会为法国食品在中国的推广

采取了哪些措施?有什么印象深刻的活动可以跟我们

分享?

法国食品协会在大中华地区有 4 个分支机构,分别

设在北京、上海、成都和香港,在 40 多个城市与食品、

饮料和生活方式领域内 12000 多个贸易商以及 1300 多家

媒体建立了合作关系。我们每年举办几百场活动,目标

都是业内专业人士,注重培训、品牌发展和公关营销。

法国出口中国的食品和饮料种类主要有哪些?

葡萄酒和烈酒是很重要的类别,其他还有近来引进到

中国市场的法国乳制品(奶酪、黄油、奶油、牛奶、奶粉)、

有机水果和蔬菜(苹果、奇异果)、饼干、调味品、肉制品、

甚至生蚝等。

中国市场上最受欢迎的法国食品饮料有哪些?法国食

品协会打算引进到中国的潜在新产品有哪些?

葡萄酒和起泡酒非常受欢迎,并且越来越流行(比如

产自以下地区的葡萄酒:波尔多、隆河谷、朗格多克、

阿尔萨斯、普罗旺斯,以及其他法国葡萄酒)。 烈酒如

soPexa: Promote the FrenCh Food WorldWide法国食品协会:向世界推广法国食品

法国白兰地也深受青睐(接下来的几个月我们

有一个关于法国白兰地的大型推广活动)。最

近我们引进了一个新品牌:来自尔佩拉的巴约

纳火腿。我们还开发了乐喜瑞系列高端调味料。

有越来越多欧洲国家的高品质食品开始涌

入中国市场,法国食品如何保持其竞争优

势?

我们相信这样一个充满活力的进口食品饮料

市场应该是包罗万象的。法国食品出口优势得

益于其强劲的食品文化形象,其全球旅游领导

者地位也有助于法国品牌的打造。但是欧洲其

他国家也非常活跃(包括通过法国食品协会进

行活动):比如西班牙、意大利、波兰、德国等。

在中国的十多年间,法国食品协会观察到

法国食品出口市场出现了什么样的趋势变

化?

出口的产品种类每年都在扩展,这得益于中

产和上层阶级对品尝新食物的强烈兴趣(有时

候是他们在国外旅行的时候发现了感兴趣的新

食物)。以前常常被用于当做礼物的葡萄酒和

烈酒也开始吸引越来越多富裕的年轻城市消费

者的关注,这对整个行业来说都是好消息。

法国食品协会如何看待法国食品在中国市场

的未来 ?

非常看好!我们相信未来法国所有的食品领

域都将有着长足的增长空间,对出口高品质正

宗食品到中国的大多数其他国家也是如此。

Sopexa Managing Director, Greater China

THEBAULT Jacques

法国食品协会大中华区总裁

Interview访谈

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今年刚好是西诺迪斯(SINODIS)公司成立 20 周年。

这家由法国人创办、总部设在上海的外资公司在国内进口

食品经销领域内绝对称得上是“元老”级别。20 年前,中

国进口食品市场方兴未艾,然而对于世界各国的经销商而

言,“它”正如一块美味诱人的奶酪,让每个人趋之若鹜,

谁都梦想着尝上一口……这当中,就包括西诺迪斯。

20 年间,这个市场风云变幻,西诺迪斯从成立之初的

摸爬滚打,到最终站稳脚跟,直至如今傲视同侪,不可不

谓跌宕起伏。若要探讨它的成功秘诀,恐怕还得从它那深

厚的法国“基因”说起……

This year marks the 20th anniversary of Sinodis, a French company with its headquarter in Shanghai. In the imported food distribution field of China, Sinodis is absolutely a “veteran”. 20 years ago, China’s imported food market just started and was a delicious tempting cheese for the world’s dealers who all wanted to have a share of it, including Sinodis.During the 20 years since its establishment, with the continuing changes on China’s market, Sinodis has experienced ups and downs from the initial exploration to finally gaining a firm foothold and enjoying an unshakable status in the industry.To explore the secrets of Sinodis’ success, we should start from the deep French “genes” of Sinodis ...

Interview访谈

“Good Food, Good livinG”-PhilosoPhy oF sinodis“美好食物 美好生活”--西诺迪斯的美味哲学

一块法国奶酪引发的中国梦

去年,在中国举办的第二届“法国美食精神

大奖”颁奖晚宴上,一个汇聚了众多顶级法国食

品的展台吸引了宾客们的注意,台上有来自法国

各地的风味多样的奶酪,露杰肥肝鸭肉,依云水,

波多起泡水,布瑞林火腿,爱乐薇奶油甜品……

每一样都是法国家喻户晓的顶级品牌——这些品

牌的经销商,正是有着纯正“法国基因”的西诺

迪斯公司。

西诺迪斯是一家注册在上海的进口食品代理

商,主要从欧美国家进口各种干货、饮料、奶制

品等,并主要通过零售和餐饮两大销售渠道销往

中国。

1996 年,适逢家乐福、沃尔玛这些国外大型

连锁超市刚进驻中国,国内的进口食品市场方兴

未艾,西诺迪斯正式成立。2012 年西诺迪斯正式

加入了法国 Savencia 集团,该集团专注于奶酪和

特色奶制品领域,是全球最大的特色奶酪制造商

之一,拥有六十年的奶酪制作历史和世界顶级的

奶酪生产工艺。

西诺迪斯是在中国进口食品市场的起步阶段

就加入到这个尚待开发、潜力无限的领域,从成

立之初已占尽了先机。此后,从最熟悉而又擅长

的奶制品开始,一步一步成长为如今这一行业的

佼佼者。今天的西诺迪斯产品系列丰富,品类齐全,

进口分销来自全世界 14 个不同国家的 60 余个品牌,除了主

打的奶制品品类,同时拥有精美食品、干货、饮料、糖果及

零食、饼房原料和工具等 2000 多款产品。

注重品质的法式基因 20 年间,国内进口食品市场风云变幻,西诺迪斯秉持着

新鲜独特的文化价值,不断发展、优化品牌效应,引进多样

化的优质食品,以满足不同消费者的个性需求,最终成功跻

身于中国进口食品和分销行业的前列。

如今的西诺迪斯已是年营业额过亿的大型企业,向全中

国 8000 多家客户提供他们所代理的产品。西诺迪斯仍在不

断丰富着自身的产品体系,力争形成一个覆盖全局的食品网

络。

FOOD TO CHINA 1312 FOOD TO CHINA

Cover Story 封面故事 作为进口食品经销商,西诺迪斯除了向中国人

提供琳琅满目的食品外,其在推广国外饮食文

化与理念方面所作的努力,尤能显示出其法式

基因所造就的、对于美食那与生俱来的诚意。

浏览一下西诺迪斯的微信公众号,内容丰

富有趣,绝不沉闷,你可以了解欧洲人吃黄油

的历史与传统、学习点法国大餐的窍门、掌握

制作巧克力糕点的技巧……在产品促销上,以

餐饮渠道为例,西诺迪斯不仅提供产品,还会

提供相应的培训,西诺迪斯在上海和北京分别

打造了两个设备齐全的“Chef Studio”( 厨师

工作室 ),组织大师演示,设计和研发新配方,

给客户提供各种解决方案,同时,也会向中国

消费者介绍各种食品的文化以及食用方法等

等……所有这些,恐怕才是“美好食物 美好生

活”这句口号的精髓所在。

各种各样来自异域的食品在带来味蕾冲击

的同时,也毫无疑问会带来文化冲击。在这样

的形势下,西诺迪斯作为国内进口食品行业内

的领头羊,担负的已不仅仅是一个食品经销商

的角色,更是传播外国饮食文化的使者与桥

梁——这种使命的自觉以及角色的升华,无疑

会让西诺迪斯今后的中国之路走得更稳更远。

A Chinese Dream Inspired by A French CheeseLast year, at the award dinner of the second

“French Food Spirit Awards”, the guests were

deeply attracted by an exhibition stand of well-

known top French foods such as various cheeses,

Rougie duck foie gras, Evian water, Badoit

sparkling water, Brocéliande hams, Elle & Vire

cream desserts. Sinodis with its pure “French

gene” is exactly the distributor of these brands in

China.

As a registered imported food agent in Shanghai,

Sinodis mainly imports from Europe and the

United States various dry goods, beverages and

dairy products, and then sells the products in

China through the retail channel and the catering

industry channel.

In 1996, when large foreign chain supermarkets

such as Carrefour and Wal-Mart just started to

enter China, and the imported food market of

China was just growing, Sinodis was formally

established. In 2012, Sinodis joined the Savencia

Group. Enjoying sixty years’ history of cheese

making and world-class cheese production

techniques, Savencia Group specializes in cheese

and specialty dairy products and is one of the

world’s largest specialty cheese manufacturers.

西诺迪斯在日趋恶劣的市场环境下仍然保持其在行业的

竞争优势和地位,不得不说是得益于其优越的法式基因——

这种基因的核心,乃是对于品质的一丝不苟。尤其是在食品

安全问题变得日益敏感和备受关注的今天。

西诺迪斯在整个供应链过程中对产品质量的监控环环相

扣、步步到位:在全国有 4 个配送中心,每个配送中心均有

4 个温控区域,分别为:5 摄氏度的温控区,15 摄氏度的温

控区,-18 摄氏度的温控区,以及干燥区,分别存放对温度

有不同要求的货物。

西诺迪斯还有一套 SAP 系统,可以随时查看产品的物流

及销售进度,一旦哪个环节出现问题,可以及时查处。而对

于问题产品,西诺迪斯从来都是不留“情面”的,一旦发现,

立即全部销毁,绝不允许其在市场上流通,或贱价出售。

“美好食物 美好生活”

在西诺迪斯,有一句人人知晓的口号:“美好食物,美好

生活”。它所代表的,是精益求精的法式美食哲学与生活哲学。

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centers, each with four temperature control zones, namely, 5℃ zone,

15℃ zone, -18℃ zone, and dry zone to meet the storage temperature

requirements of different goods.

Sinodis has a set of SAP system which shows the real time logistics

and sales progress of products. Once any problem at any link occurs,

it will be promptly investigated and dealt with. Sinodis never shows

any “mercy” for the problem products. It will immediately destroy

the problem products once found and stop them from going into the

market or being sold at low prices.

“Good Food, Good Living”All Sinodis people are familiar with the well-known slogan, “Good

Food, Good Living”, it represents the French food and living

philosophy of seeking for ever greater excellence.

As an imported food distributor, in addition to providing a wide

range of foods to the Chinese people, Sinodis is also committed to

promoting foreign food culture and philosophy in China, which in

particular indicates its sincerity for food due to its French genes.

If you follow and glance over the Sinodis’ WeChat official account,

you will find it very interesting. There, you can learn the European

history and tradition of eating butter, cooking tips on French

cuisine, and techniques of making chocolate pastries and so on. As

for product promotions, take the catering channel as an example,

Sinodis provides products as well as corresponding training. It has

set up two well-equipped “Chef Studios” in Shanghai and Beijing

respectively to organize masters to present their works, to design

and develop new recipes, and to provide customers with various

solutions. Besides, it also introduces consumers to other food

cultures and eligible methods. All of these reveal the essence of the

“Good Food, Good Living” slogan.

Exotic foods they brought give us not only a taste shock but

definitely also a culture shock. In this situation, as a leader in

China’s imported food industry, the role Sinodis is going to play is

not only a food distributor, but also an ambassador of global food

cultures. Taking itself with self-awareness to the level of the role

will undoubtedly help Sinodis to have a more stable progress and go

further in China.

FOOD TO CHINA 1514 FOOD TO CHINA

Cover Story 封面故事

法国猪肉制品品种丰富,每个地区

都出产从最传统到最现代的猪肉制品。

在悠久的法国美食传统中,演化出了

精良的制作工艺、发展出了超过 450

种不同的产品分类。从传统到现代,

满足不同的消费时刻,不同的口味需

求。

法国每年出口将近 15 万吨猪肉制

品,出口额约 6.8 亿欧元。自 2014

年起,法国猪肉制品联盟 FICT 开启

了一个战略性计划:把法国猪肉制品

出口到中国。目前,在法国共有 6000

家猪肉生产手工业作坊和 295 家工业

化猪肉熟食生产企业,涉及的营业额

分别为 18 亿欧元和 57 亿欧元。

目前已有四家法国猪肉食品企

业 正 式 获 得 向 中 国 出 口 产 品 的 许

可 , 分别是布列塔尼地区的布瑞林

(Broceliande)、 阿 基 坦 地 区 的

Delpeyrat、鲁埃格地区的腌制和罐

头类生产商 Sacor、卢瓦尔地区的

Bernaudeau 专业家族企业。

Sinodis entered China’s imported food market at the

initial stage when the market was yet to be developed

with unlimited potentials, and therefore enjoyed good

opportunities during its development. Sinodis has

gradually developed from a beginner only familiar

with and good at dairy products to today’s industry

leader. At present, Sinodis boasts a rich and diverse

range of products of over 60 brands from 14 different

countries around the world. Apart from the major

dairy products, Sinodis also has over 2000 other

products of premium foods, dry goods, beverages,

sweets, snacks, pastry materials and tools.

French Genes of Focusing on Quality During 20 years since its establishment, though

China’s imported food market has witnessed great

changes, Sinodis always upholds its novel and unique

cultural values, continuously develops and optimizes

its brand effects, introduces a variety of quality foods

to meet diversified individual needs, and ultimately

succeeds to become a leader in the imported food

distribution industry of China.

Today’s Sinodis is a large enterprise with an annual

turnover exceeding 100 million and provides more

than 8,000 clients in China with its agent products.

These products include dairy products, dry goods,

sweets and snacks, pastry products and Le Gourmet

category. Sinodis is constantly enriching its product

system, and strives to form a comprehensive food

network.

Sinodis has maintained its competitive advantages

and position in the increasingly harsh market. This

is especially important in nowadays when the food

safety issues have become increasingly sensitive and

been highly concerned.

Sinodis carefully monitors every step of the whole

process of supply chain to ensure the product

quality. Now around China, it owns four distribution

French charcuterie has a rich variety ranging from traditional to modern pork products. In the long French food history, charcuterie has been developed into over 450 categories which are produced with fine workmanship to meet different consumption needs and taste requirement. France exports nearly 150 thousand tons of charcuterie annually with export value of about 0.68 billion Euros. In 2014, FICT (French Charcuterie Association) launched a strategic plan: exporting charcuterie to China. At present, there are 6000 workshops and 295 industrialized manufacturers in France which are focusing on charcuterie production, with turnovers reaching 1.8 billion Euros and 5.7 billion Euros respectively.So far, there are four French charcuterie companies that have been permitted to export products to China. They are Broceliande from Bretagne region, Delpeyrat from Aquitaine region, Sacor from Rouergue region and Bernaudeau from Loire region.

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Other charcuterie products 其它猪肉制品

猪血肠和白香肠,面点猪肉制品:把猪肉制品用面皮包裹然后用烤箱烤制,馅饼,肉糜派 ... boudin noir (blood sausage), boudin blanc (Weiswurst), charcuterie patissiere (meat pie produced through putting wrapped pork meat stuffing into oven for baking)

Cover Story 封面故事

法国猪肉生食熟食皆可。法国猪肉制品可以分为 8 大家族:

French charcuterie can be enjoyed as it is or after being cooked. There are 8 charcuterie families:

Le jambon sec 干火腿

采用猪后腿肉制作,经过腌制和干制,成熟的时间通常为 4-7 个月,最负盛名的火腿成熟时间可以长达 36 个月。最著名的干火腿包括:巴约纳火腿、拉古娜火腿、奥弗涅火腿、萨伏伊火腿、比戈尔火腿、科西嘉干火腿、堪多爱干火腿等。It is produced with hindquarter meat. After curing and drying, it usually takes 4 to 7 seven months of aging period. The most famous ham even needs as long as 36 months of aging.The most famous of this family include: Jambon de Bayonne, jambon de Lacaune, jambon d’Auvergne, jambon de Savoie, noir de Bigorre, jambon sec de Corse/Prisuttu, and jambon sec du Kintoa.

Le jambon cuit 熟火腿 ( 白火腿 )

熟火腿采用猪后腿部位的肉进行腌制熟化,是法国最重要的猪肉制品,占法国猪肉制品总产量的 25%。法国是欧洲第一大熟火腿生产国,占欧洲总产量的 28%。最著名的熟火腿是巴黎火腿。Le jambon cuit is hind leg meat cured and aged. It’s the most important kind of Charcuterie in France, accounting for 25% of the total production. France is the number one le jambon cuit producer in Europe, accounting for 28% of its total production. The most famous of le jambon cuit is Jambon de Paris.

Le saucisson sec 干肠

通过混合 3/4 的瘦肉和 1/4 的肥肉剁碎、盐渍、调味然后灌制入肠衣制成。通常采用猪肉。干肠和干火腿是蛋白质含量最高的两种猪肉制品。著名的干肠包括:奥弗涅干肠 , 里昂干肠,钓竿干肠、拉古娜干肠、阿尔勒干肠、斯特拉斯堡莎乐美香肠,科西嘉莎乐美香肠、舒丽凑等。It’s produced with 3/4 lean meat (usually pork) and 1/4 fat minces salted and seasoned and then put into the casting. Dry sausages and dry ham are the kinds of Charcuterie with the highest protein content. Famous kinds of this family include: saucisse seche d’Auvergne, saucisson de Lyon, saucisse seche a la perche, saucisson de Lacaune, saucisson d’Arles, salami de Strasbourg, Salamu corse, Chorizo, etc.

Les saucisses cuites 熟香肠

香肠是制作方法多样化的猪肉制品。熟香肠采用切得极碎的肥瘦混合的肉制成,香肠经过完全烹调。最著名的熟香肠是诀窍香肠,或称斯特拉斯堡香肠,还有风味浓郁的法兰克福香肠和鸡尾酒香肠。Sausage can be produced in various ways. Les saucisses cuites is completely cooked mixture of lean meat and fact minces. The most famous kinds are Knack (saucisse de Strasbourg), saucisse de Francfort and saucisse cocktail.

Les saucisses a cuire 生香肠

生香肠可以分为:用来烤制煎炸的生香肠(例如直布罗陀或者摩洛哥香肠)适宜用作夏季烤肉宴;经或未经焖炖、熏制的生香肠,食用前煮熟然后加入菜肴中(莫尔托香肠和蒙贝利亚香肠)。Les saucisses a cuire includes: les saucisses a cuire (to be baked or fried, such as Chipolatas and merguez, which is suitable for barbecue in summer); les saucisses a cuire (un-braised and un-smoked, such as saucisse de Morteau and saucisse de Montbeliard, which needs to be cooked thoroughly before consumption).

Les pates et rillettes 肉酱和肉糜

包括猪肝酱、乡村肉酱、猪肝慕斯、纯肉肉酱等,种类丰富,取决于不同的原材料、准备工序(香料、腌泡物)以及打碎和烹调的方法。肉酱和肉糜的包装分为多种:塑料罐、陶罐、玻璃瓶或者马口铁盒。著名的肉酱和肉糜:布列塔尼肉酱、雷恩肉酱、汝拉肉酱、森林肉酱、勒芒肉糜、图尔肉糜等。Les pates et rillettes includes pork liver paste, village meat paste, pork liver mousse, pure meat paste, etc. It has a rich variety with different ingredients, preparatory process (spice, marinade, etc.) and cooking method. It also has many kinds of packages such as plastic can, ceramic can, glass bottle and tinplate box. Famous kinds of this family include pate Breton, pate Rennais, pate Jurassien, pate forestier, rillettes du Mans, rillettes de Tours, etc.

Les andouilles et andouillettes 猪肠香肠和内脏肠

猪肠香肠采用粗略切碎的猪消化道(胃和大肠)灌入肠衣后烹熟制成,肉馅中可加入肉、脂肪、下水、盐、香料、香草和调味料。著名的猪肠香肠和内脏肠:盖梅尔猪肠香肠、维尔猪肠香肠、康布雷猪肠香肠、特鲁瓦香料内脏肠、雅尔若内脏肠、里昂内脏肠等。Roughly minced pig digestive tract (stomach and large intestine) is put into casting and then cooked to make les andouilles et andouillettes. Meat, fat, offal, salt, spice, vanilla and condiments can also be added in to the stuffing. Famous kinds of the family include: andouille de Guemene, andouille de Vire, andouille de Cambrai, andouille de Troyes, andouille de Jargeau, andouille Lyonnaise, etc.

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糖衣丸 Dragees

法国糖衣丸由特别坚硬和闪耀的糖衣包裹杏仁而成。你所知道的约旦杏就是糖衣丸,在法国作为节日庆祝的一部分已经有几百年的历史了,凡尔登市就以生产糖衣丸而闻名。

French dragees are almonds that are covered with an especially hard and shiny coating. You may know these as Jordan almonds, and they have been a part of French celebrations for many centuries. The French city of Verdum is famous for its production.

卡里颂杏仁糖 Calisson

笑脸酥,也叫卡里颂杏仁糖,是法国南部普罗旺斯的特色甜点,名声之于普罗旺斯犹如马卡龙之于巴黎。卡里颂杏仁糖是一种需要细细品味的珍品。这些钻石形状的糖下面是杏仁粉和西瓜果冻,上面浇盖了一层白色的糖霜。小杏仁蛋糕糖是法国南部艾克斯的特产,在历史上曾一度被选定作为该地区天主教堂中的圣餐面包。A calisson is a little treasure of a candy to be savored slowly with much appreciation. These diamond shaped candies are made from a jelly of ground almonds and melon and are topped with white royal icing. They are a speciality of Aix in the south of France and at one time in history even served as the eucharistic bread in Catholic churches in the area.

糖渍栗子 Marrons Glaces

糖渍栗子是法国南部阿尔岱什的特产,将栗子以糖浆熬煮、覆糖制成,可以单独做零食吃,也可以用来做菜。在法国糖渍栗子一般在圣诞节的时候食用。小仲马的小说《茶花女》中,糖渍栗子是女主角玛格丽特十分喜爱的甜食。她成为交际花时,客户为讨好她,总会买上大量的糖渍栗子供她享用。These are whole candied chestnuts and are a speciality of the Ardeche region in the south of France. They are meant to be eaten whole just as as they are although you can also find jars of broken ones used for cooking. In France, candied chestnuts are eaten mostly at Christmas time.

蒙特利马牛轧糖 Nougat from Montelimar

蒙特利马牛轧糖产于法国南部,法国原产地控制制度规定该法定产区的牛轧糖必须至少含 30% 的杏仁(或者 28% 的杏仁加 2% 的开心果)和 25% 的蜂蜜。这种很具嚼劲的牛轧糖还包含蛋白,使得牛轧糖更加蓬松轻盈。牛轧糖在普罗旺斯通常被作为圣诞前夕的13 种甜点之一。

The Nougat of Montelimar comes from the south of France and is sanctioned by an AOC (Appellation d'Origine Controlee). A product that marks itself with the appellation must contain a minimum of 30 percent almonds (or 28 percent almonds and 2 percent pistachios) and 25 percent honey. This sticky nougat also characteristically features egg whites which makes an airy, light candy. Nougat is often featured as one of the thirteen desserts at Christmas eve celebrations in Provence.

维希软果糕糖 Pastilles from Vichy

这种六边形的糖果由 18 世纪维希地区一位药剂师发明,用来帮助消化。维希的水富含矿物盐,被融入到糖果中。软果糕糖有薄荷、柠檬、茴香等各种味道。也许下次你享用法国大餐的时候就可以尝试一下维希软果糕糖作为点缀。These hexagonal hard candies were developed as a digestive aid by a pharmacist working in Vichy in the 1800's. They incorporate the mineral salts contained in Vichy water and come in mint, lemon and anise flavors. Perhaps you would enjoy trying them as an accompaniment to your next ten course French meal.

口香片 Cachous

这些甘草口香片由 18 世纪晚期图卢兹地区一位名叫 Leon Lajaunie 的药剂师发明。这种糖果的成功一半取决于其新颖的包装,一半取决于其独特的口味。Lajaunie 想到了一个好主意,将甘草口香片用特殊的黄色小盒子进行包装销售,这种包装延续至今,每年能销售出超过一千万盒。

These licorice drops were invented by a pharmacist, Leon Lajaunie, working in Toulouse in the late 1800's. The success of this candy is attributed as much to its innovative packaging as to its taste. Lajaunie had the brilliant idea of marketing his licorice drops in a special little yellow box that persists to this day, with more than 10 million tins sold each year.

南斯四角形透明水果糖 Berlingot from Nantes

这种有着独特四边形的硬糖,使你想要在嘴里不停的翻转它。Berlingot 有着各种你可以想象出来的口味,是法国西北部城市南斯的特产。卡庞特拉也出产一种四角形糖条,这两个城市经常为谁才是这种有趣的糖果的真正诞生地而争论不休。

A berlingot is a hard candy with an unusual tetrahedron shape that invites you to turn the candy over and over in your mouth. It comes in just about any flavor you can imagine and is a speciality of the city of Nantes, in north western France. There is also a striped berlingot that hails from Carpentras and the two cities like to contend which was the originator of this fun candy.

康布雷愚糖 Betise from Cambrai

这种糖果源自于 18 世纪法国北部城镇康布雷一个糖果制造学徒所犯的一个错误。糖果是白薄荷味的硬糖,边上有层焦糖来增加甜味。

These candies were supposedly invented as a result of an error or stupidity committed by an apprentice candy maker in the 1800's in the northern town of Cambrai. They are white mint flavored hard candies with a strip of caramel on the side to sweeten their taste.

南锡香柠檬糖 Bergamote from Nancy

法国东北部洛林的南锡以出产香柠檬糖而闻名。香柠檬是一种非常酸的苦橙。苦橙皮的精华就用来制作这种方形的微酸的糖果。

The town of Nancy in the north east region of Lorraine is renowned in France for its bergamot candy. Bergamot is a sort of orange tree that produces a very sour orange, and it is the essence from the peel of this orange that is used to make these square, slightly sour candies.

弗拉维尼茴香糖 Anise Candy from Flavigny

这种硬糖中间有一个惊喜 -- 茴香子,有不同的口味,如玫瑰、橘子、茴香、甘草、薄荷等。这种糖果是法国勃良第地区奥泽兰河畔弗拉维尼的特产,目前只有一家公司制造这种糖果。

These hard candies have a surprise at their center - an anise seed. They come in several enchanting flavors including rose, orange, anise, licorice and mint. These days there is only one company making these candies which are a speciality of Flavigny-sur-Ozerain in the Burgundy region of France.

纳韦尔的尼格斯糖 Negus from Nevers

这是来自勃良第地区的另一种糖果,这种糖果中间是柔软的巧克力外面包裹着一层硬的透明糖衣。这种糖很难制造,必须由手工完成,这就更增添了其神秘性。尼格斯糖在 1901 年由一个糖果制造商为世博会制作发明出来,并以当年访问法国的埃塞俄比亚统治者(尼格斯)命名。

Another candy from the Burgundy region, this one features a soft chocolate center encased in a hard, clear candy coating. These candies are difficult to make and must be made by hand, considerably adding to their mystique. They were invented by a candy maker for the World Expo in 1901 and were named after the ruler (or negus) of Ethiopia who was visiting France that year.

Cover Story 封面故事

法国糖果非常可口,清新自然,口味浓郁,充满了历

史与传奇,承载着法国深厚的文化传统。

French Candy is wonderfully delicious, natural and rich, have all their history or legend, and reflects the rich heritage and know-how French.

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在法国,全国 37% 的牛奶被用来制作

各种奶酪,甚至有“一个乡村,一种奶酪”

的说法。

法国有 300 多家乳制品企业,坚持传

承与创新并行,创造了涵盖奶酪、黄油、

奶油、奶粉、酸奶和乳制甜品等各形态的

超过 1500 种乳制品,是全世界品种最多

最齐全的乳制品国。在各式各样的乳制品

中,最能体现法国人智慧和艺术,也最受

法国人欢迎的乳制品非奶酪莫属。

乳酪的本质是由气候、地理环境、牧草

和牛羊的不同来决定的。而乳酪的质地风

味,则微妙地受到酵母、容器、制作方式

和熟成时间等条件的影响。在靠海的诺曼

底,牛羊吃了略有海咸味的牧草,诞生了

与众不同的乳制品,内陆牧草稀少的地方

便以山羊乳酪闻名。每逢秋季,便是乳酪

慢慢变黄的时间,美食家公认这时候的乳

酪质地最好,口感也最迷人。

一些法国奶酪通过原产地认证保护,产

品按照严格的规定生产,品质有保障。这

些奶酪自然就比其他没有经过原产地认证

的奶酪更受到关注,也确实值得大家一试。

Cover Story 封面故事

法国奶酪可分为以下 8 类 :

8 types of French cheeses:

Fresh Cheeses 新鲜奶酪

这种奶酪呈白色,含有大量水分,由牛奶、山羊奶或绵羊奶未经熟化制成。新鲜奶酪通过添加乳酸发酵剂而不是凝乳酵素来进行凝结。These cheeses are white and contain a lot of water. They are made from cow's milk, goat's milk, or sheep's milk and are not aged. Rather than adding rennet, which is used to create some cheeses, the curd is formed by adding lactic starter to the milk.

AOC 原产地保护认证:

Brocciu, Corsica

Soft Cheeses with Natural Rind 花皮软质奶酪

花皮软质奶酪法国最具代表性的成熟奶酪种类之一,由牛奶制成,表面呈白色粉末状,一个月左右成熟。你尝过的法国奶酪的很多品种就属于这一类,在法国 , 花皮软质奶酪通常在主菜后开始享用。These are soft cow's milk cheeses, which you will recognize by their white, almost floury surface. They are aged about a month. These include a lot of well known types of French cheese that you may have tried, and which are often served in France after the main course.

AOC 原产地保护认证:

Brie de Meaux, Ile de France Brie de Melun, Ile de France Camembert, Normandy Chaource, Champagne Neufchatel, Normandy

Soft Cheeses with Washed Rind 水洗软质奶酪

水洗软质奶酪由牛奶制成,但是水洗的是在熟化的过程中进行的,从而防止了表面发霉,产生了一层柔软而多彩的外皮。These cheeses are made from cow's milk, but the rind is washed during the aging process, which prevents the formation of surface molds. This washing produces a supple and colorful rind.

AOC 原产地保护认证:

Epoisses Cheese, Bourgogne Langres, Champagne Livarot, Normandy Maroilles, Nord-Pas-de-Calais, Picardy Munster (Munster-Gerome), Alsace Pont l'Eveque, Normandy Vacherin Mont d'Or, Franche-Comte

Pressed Cheeses 压缩未成熟奶酪

这种奶酪在制造过程中会进行压缩来减少水分,然后在严格控制的环境下进行几个月的熟化,在此过程中,奶酪还需水洗,磨毛和翻转,使得外皮呈现出一种统一的样式。These types of French cheese are submitted to pressure during the processing, which drains the cheese of some of its moisture. After applying pressure, the cheeses are placed in carefully controlled conditions and aged for several months. During the aging, they are washed, brushed and turned so that the rind forms in a uniform fashion.

AOC 原产地保护认证:

Cantal, Auvergne Laguiole, Auvergne, Languedoc-Roussillon Morbier, Franche-Comte Ossau-Iraty, Aquitaine Reblochon, Rhone-Alpes Saint-Nectaire, Auvergne Salers, Auvergne Tome des Bauges, Rhone-Alpes

In France, 37% of the milk is used to make cheese. There is even a saying “one village, one kind of cheese”. Cheese is very important for French families. There are more than 300 dairy companies in France. Holding to tradition and innovation, they produce over 1500 dairy products including cheese, butter, cream, milk powder, yoghourt and dairy dessert, among which cheese is the most popular and the best to embody French wisdom and art. The taste of cheese varies according to the nature of weather, geographic environment, pasture, and milk-producing animals. It is also subtly affected by conditions such as yeast, container, production method and aging time. In Normandy which is near the sea, cows and sheep eat salty forage and give special milk. Inland places with scarce forage grass are famous for goat cheese. It’s universally agreed by gastronomes that cheese tastes the best in fall when it gradually becomes mellow.Some French cheeses are protected by an AOC (appellation d'origine controlée), which guarantees a quality product made according to strict regulations. These cheeses seem to naturally garner more attention than their non-AOC brothers, many of which are surely worth trying.

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法国在全球的瓶装水行业处于绝

对的领先地位 -- 不管从生产,消费

还是出口,也是第一个制定矿泉水的

纯度规则。早在 1781 年,世界上第

一个针对矿泉水的法令就在法国颁

发,而 1856 年“有益于公共健康”

的概念在法国首次诞生。早期的温泉

成为了从殖民地岗位归来的法国公民

进行矿泉疗养的胜地。起初,瓶装矿

泉水是用来对离开温泉胜地而返城的

疗养者进行持续治疗的一种方式。法

国对矿泉水的管理比世界上任何其他

国家都要规范,对矿泉水的分类也有

着各种严格的规定。在法国,替代疗

法广为流行,而矿泉水已经成为治疗

各类疾病的认可疗法。矿泉水从各个

方面说,都是法国人生活中重要的组

成部分。

许多流行的矿泉水品牌是在早期

的矿泉水胜地进行装瓶的。在其周围

的小镇,你还可以找到它当年辉煌的

印记。其中有些小镇仍然延续着发达

的温泉疗养产业。

法国共有 50 多个矿泉水品牌,许

多品牌由大型食品公司包装和营销,

如达能和雀巢等,他们都有不止一个

商标。当然小公司经营也是存在的。

France is the leader in the bottled water industry – first in production, first in consumption, first in exports, and first in regulating the purity and identity of mineral waters.

Cover Story 封面故事

Regulation of mineral waters began in the late 18th century when, in 1781, the first decree governing mineral waters was issued, and in 1856 the concept of “d’interet public” (beneficial to public health) came into being. The early spas became resorts for French citizens returning home from colonial outposts to “take the waters”. Originally, bottled waters were a form of ongoing treatment for those leaving spa resorts returning to the cities. France has regulated mineral waters more so than any other countries and numerous strict classifications for mineral and spring water exist. For the French, alternative medicine is widely practiced and mineral waters contribute as accepted therapies for various illnesses. And mineral water in every other sense remains very much a part of everyday French life.Many of the popular brands of water are bottled on sites of former water Meccas and in the surrounding towns you will find traces of their glory days. Some of these towns still sport a thriving industry of health spas. There are more than 50 different brands of mineral water in France. Many of these are bottled and marketed by very large food companies, such as Dannon and Nestle, both of which own more than one mark. Some smaller operations do exist however.

Pressed and Cooked Cheeses 压缩成熟奶酪

在压缩之前,凝乳会被加热一个小时,然后在大圆筒里成型并熟化很长一段时间。这种奶酪通常在法国的山区生产,常用来做菜,特别是浇盖在热菜上面。Before being pressed, the curd is heated for an hour. They are formed in large cylinders and are ripened for a long time. They are commonly manufactured in the mountainous regions of France. These are cheeses that are often used to cook with, especially to top hot dishes with.

AOC 原产地保护认证:

Abondance, Rhone-Alpes Beaufort, Rhone-Alpes Comte, Franche-Comte

Goat Cheeses 山羊奶酪

虽然你可以将各种山羊奶酪归入不同的其他类别,但是因为他们的种类如此之多,法国人给了它们一个专属于自己的类别。在法国,正式的山羊奶酪就有上百种。有时候山羊奶跟牛奶混合起来。山羊奶酪有很多种形状和规格,有的奶酪还装在小盒子里。Although you could fit the various goat cheeses into the other categories, there are so many of them that the French have given them their own family. There are officially over a hundred varieties of goat cheese in France. Sometimes the goat's milk is mixed with cow's milk. Goat's milk cheese comes in a wide variety of shapes and sizes and sometimes special little boxes.

AOC 原产地保护认证:

Banon, Provence-Alpes-Cote d'Azur Chabichou du Poitou, Poitou-Charentes Chevrotin, Rhone-Alpes Crottin de Chavignol, Centre Maconnais, Bourgogne Pelardon, Languedoc-Roussillon Picodon, Rhone-Alpes Pouligny Saint-Pierre, Centre Rigotte de Condrieu, Rhone-Alpes Rocamadour, Midi-Pyrenees Sainte Maure de Touraine, Centre Selles sur Cher, Centre Valencay, Centre

Blue Cheeses 蓝纹奶酪

这种奶酪因其独特的蓝纹或蓝绿纹而得名,大多是由牛奶制成,非常有名的非牛奶制蓝纹奶酪有洛克福奶酪,是由绵羊奶制成的。蓝纹奶酪需要很长时间的熟化期,口感和气味都很浓郁。These types of French cheese are easily recognized by the channels of blue or greenish-blue that run throughout them. They are mostly made from cow's milk with the notable exception of Roquefort, which is made from sheep's milk. Blue cheeses are ripened a long time and have a strong flavor and smell.

AOC 原产地保护认证:

Bleu d'Auvergne, Auvergne Bleu de Gex, Franche-Comte Bleu des Causses, Midi-Pyrenees Bleu du Vercors, Provence-Alpes-Cote, Rhone-Alpes Fourme d'Ambert or Montbrison, Auvergne Roquefort, Midi-Pyrenees

Processed Cheeses 加工奶酪

这种奶酪由其他种奶酪融合而成,通常以小分量形式售卖,可以添加各种风味,如大蒜、辣椒、草药等。波尔斯因奶酪就是加工奶酪中非常著名的一种。These types of French cheese are made from other cheeses blended together. They are usually sold in small portions and can be flavored with various things, such as garlic, pepper, and herbs. Boursin is one well known example.

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Volvic 富维克矿泉水

这种矿泉水口感非常好,矿物质成分低,由达能出品,水源来自于奥弗涅的火山区,该火山区还出产一种绿色的火山小扁豆。This water has a nice taste but is low in mineral content. It is bottled by Danone and comes from the department of Puy-de-Dome in the Auvergne region, a volcanic area that brings us the tiny green Puy lentil as well.

Cover Story 封面故事

Badoit 波多矿泉水

这是一种天然的高镁碳酸水,由达能装瓶,水源来自法国罗纳 - 阿尔卑斯地区的圣加尔米耶镇。波多矿泉水有薄荷和柠檬风味的品种。This is a naturally carbonated water that is fairly high in magnesium. It is bottled by Danone and comes from sources in the town of Saint-Galmier in the Rhone-Alpes region of France. You can find Badoit that has mint and lemon flavoring added.

Contrex 康婷矿泉水

在法国,康婷很久以来就有着“我们的瘦身伙伴”的这样的美誉。雀巢试图通过宣传高镁高钙矿泉水的益处来吸引想要瘦身的人群。康婷的水源来自于洛林地区的孚日山脉。In France, Contrex has long been marketed with the jingle "mon partenaire minceur" (my slimming partner). Nestle has tried to appeal to a dieting audience by vaunting the virtues of drinking a water which is high in magnesium and calcium. Contrex flows from sources in the Vosges mountains in the region of Lorraine.

Evian 依云矿泉水

依云矿泉水是法国瓶装水最著名和最受欢迎的品牌之一。水源来自于上萨瓦省的阿尔卑斯山,含有微量矿物成分,适合日常饮用。达能不停的向消费者灌输依云是婴儿最好的饮用水。One of the most famous and popular of French bottled waters, Evian flows from sources in the Alps in the department of Haute-Savoie. It has a very low mineral content making it a safe water to drink on a daily basis. Danone is continually reminding us that it is the perfect water for babies.

Hepar 矿泉水

Hépar 矿泉水是雀巢饮用水家族的又一成员。水源跟康婷和伟图非常相近,也来自于孚日山脉。Hépar 矿泉水跟伟图矿泉水在同一地点进行加工处理。Hépar 与康婷一样富含矿物质,口味也相似。Another member of the Nestlé group of waters, the source for Hépar is quite near that for Contrex and Vittel in the Vosges mountains. It is conditioned at the same site as Vittel. Hépar is similar to Contrex with a high mineral content and a similar taste. Best for drinking on occasion, perhaps when you feel the need for a little mineral boost.

Perrier 巴黎水

巴黎水跟依云一样是法国最有名的矿泉水。水源来自于法国南部朗格多克 - 鲁西荣地区,天然碳化,富含泡沫。巴黎水有各种口味,甚至还有一种微碳化的品种。Along with Evian this has to be France's most famous water. Perrier comes from sources in the region of Languedoc-Roussillon in the south of France. It is naturally carbonated and the bubbles are frankly aggressive. Perrier is available in all sorts of flavors and there is even a less carbonated version known as eau de Perrier.

Saint Yorre 圣约尔矿泉水

圣约尔矿泉水也是一种天然碳化水,富含碳酸氢盐成分。出品公司抓住这一特点,将圣约尔矿泉水宣传为最适合就餐的饮用水。圣约尔矿泉水有一种特殊的咸味,有的人很喜欢,有的人喝了会觉得更口渴。圣约尔矿泉水跟维希矿泉水在同一地区装瓶。Another naturally carbonated water, Saint Yorre distinguishes itself in its very high bicarbonate content. This allows the company to promote this French bottled water with the notion that it is the perfect accompaniment to meals. It has a distinctly salty taste that either you are going to like or may just leave you feeling thirsty. It is bottled in the same area as Vichy.

Quezac 矿泉水

Quezac 矿泉水也是雀巢出品,水源来自于朗格多克 - 鲁西荣地区,天然碳化。碳化作用首先要跟一些铁离子一起移除,然后又将碳化作用还原回去。Quezac 矿泉水是一种气泡水,跟巴黎水相似,也产自于相同的地区。Yet another Nestle product, Quezac comes from a naturally carbonated source in the Languedoc-Roussillon region. The carbonation is first removed along with some iron, and then the carbonation is added back in. A frankly fizzy water, similar to Perrier which comes from the same area.

Vichy Celestins 维希矿泉水

Vichy Celestins 矿泉水跟圣约尔类似,同样产自于奥弗涅地区,同样富含钠成分。即使现在,温泉疗法在维希地区也非常兴盛。This is similar to Saint Yorre, and indeed the two come from the same area in the Auvergne region. It too has a high sodium content. By the way, thermalism is alive and well in modern day Vichy.

Vittel 伟图矿泉水

虽然含有不少的钙成分,但伟图矿泉水仍然被认为是一种低矿物质水。伟图矿泉水也是由雀巢公司出品,水源产地跟康婷和 Hepar 相近,位于孚日山脉。而且各个产地之间还有水管相连。虽然这些水源非常近,可是出产的水却大不相同,这也是非常有意思的现象。Although it contains a fair bit of calcium, Vittel is considered to be low in minerals. Nestle bottles this one too and the source is near that for Contrex and Hepar in the Vosges mountains. Indeed there are pipelines connecting the sites of production. It is fun to see that even though two sources may be quite nearby, they can produce considerably different sorts of water.

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FrenCh eleGanCe lies in sWeetness法式优雅在于甜 对于一个国家或者地区而言,美食是其文化的一部

分,在我看来,一个国家的饮食文化的发展程度,说到

底,是和这个民族与生俱来的敏感度,甚至性感度有关。

法兰西自古是盛产哲学家、艺术家和文学家的地方,法

国饮食文化的丰富和细腻程度,如同它的文化和艺术一

样,不断让我惊艳,其中之一,是不得不说的法式甜点

烘培。

在巴黎,密度最大的除了满街大大小小的咖啡馆,

其次大概就是随处可见的 Boulangerie 和 Patisserie 了吧。

前者指面包主食类烘焙,后者指甜品点心类烘焙,有时

两者合二为一。甜品点心类的种类之繁多,主要可以分

为咸和甜两大类,在法国,甜食并不仅仅是太太小姐们

的专属,男士们对甜食的热爱丝毫不在她们之下。

法式甜品烘培最享誉世界的,应该是著名的马卡龙

法式小圆饼,口味繁多,从传统的巧克力、香草、覆盆

子、栗子、杏仁、花生、焦糖、咖啡等等到近几年出现

的抹茶、橘子、橙花、椰子,甚至是具有品牌特色配方

的混合口味,都因其可爱的外形和颜色而深得人心。

不过对于像我一样并不特别偏爱马卡龙的吃货,法式烘

培里其实还有几种甜品在我看来更有代表性,个人尤其钟爱

歌剧院蛋糕和红色浆果蛋挞。

提到歌剧院蛋糕,不得不说巴黎著名的老牌糕点店

Dalloyau,其历史可追溯至 1682 年,Charles Dalloyau 是当

时 Condé 王子的侍仆,在一次国王路易十四来访时为其准

备的小面包深得其心,从此由国王钦点为凡尔赛宫法庭制作

特供点心。从此 Dalloyau 家族接连四代为皇室和贵族服务,

Dalloyau 兄弟也被国王加冕为贵族。Dalloyau 因此成为传统

法式烘培贵族出品的象征。

巴黎的有钱人向来喜欢举家在乡村别墅度过周末,上世

纪五十年代,Dalloyau 糕点店的烘培师 Cyriaque Gavillon 因

此而研制了一种便于打包携带和保存的糕点:这是一种由浸

渍了咖啡糖浆的 Joconde 海绵饼干、咖啡、黄油和巧克力奶

糊做成的千层蛋糕,表面再淋上一层黑巧克力。烘培师的妻

子 Andrée 将其命名为剧院蛋糕,是为了纪念当时常来店里

光顾的一位明星歌剧舞蹈演员和在店里玩击脚小跳的她年轻

的学生们。这款蛋糕从此成为法式烘培的代表之一,并至今

是 Dalloyau 家最畅销的产品。

Fruit rouge 在法语里是黑红色系小浆果及核果的

总称,包括蓝莓,黑莓,草莓,覆盆子,桑葚,黑加

仑,醋栗,樱桃等等。这一系列的果实从色泽妖娆到

口味浓郁,特别适合制成果酱和甜品,色味俱全的红

色浆果蛋挞便是人见人爱。

法兰西美味可说的太多,葡萄酒奶酪干肠鹅肝酱

统统都好,就是不如法式甜品好得这样优雅。

Food is part of the culture of a country or region. In my

opinion, the development of a country's food culture is

relevant with its innate sensitivity or even sexuality.

France has always been a place that is teem with

philosophers, artists and writers. Like its culture and art,

the richness and exquisiteness of French food culture

always amaze me. Of all French food, I have to mention

French desserts and baked goods.

Cover Story 封面故事

张漠予 Moyu

艺术家,视美食美酒烹饪

为艺术和生活之源泉。artist who takes fine food and

wine and cooking as the source

of art and life.

In Paris, apart from large or small cafes most commonly

seen on streets, you can see boulangeries and patisseries

everywhere. You can find staple foods like breads in a

boulangerie, and sweets and desserts in a patisserie. Or

sometimes all of them in one place. There are a great

varietyof sweets and desserts, which can be divided into

two categories: salty and sweet. In France, sweets are not

exclusive to ladies, gentlemen also love them very much.

The best-known French confection should be macaron,

a kind of small round cookie. There are many macaron

flavors, including traditional flavors like chocolate, vanilla,

raspberry, chestnut, almond, peanut, caramel and coffee,

recent new flavors like green tea, orange, orange blossom

and coconut, and even mixed flavors with brand recipe

fearures. They are all very popular because of their lovely

shape and color.

But for a foddie like me who does not particularly favor

macaron, there are several other desserts that are more

representative of French baked goods, especially Opéra

(Opera cake) and Tarte aux fruits rouge (red berry tarts).

Speaking of Opéra, I have to mention a famous old pastry

shop in Paris-- Dalloyau. The history of the shop can be

traced back to 1682, when Charles Dalloyau was the servant

of prince Condé. Once, when King Louis XIV visited

Condé, Dalloyau prepared some small breads for the king,

which completely won the king's heart. The king hand-

picked Dalloyau to make desserts specially for the Court

of Versailles. From then on, four successive generations

of Dalloyau family had been serving French royal families

and nobles. Dalloyau brothers were even crowned as

royal nobility by King Louis XIV. So Dalloyau, the brand,

becomes a symbol of traditional French aristocracy baked

goods.

Paris's rich people have always liked to spend weekends in

their country houses. In the 1950s, Cyriaque Gavillon, the

baker of Dalloyau pastry shop, developed a kind of pastry

that was easy to package and preserve: mille crepe cake

made from Joconde sponge biscuits soaked with coffee

syrup, coffee, butter and chocolate pastes and covered with

a layer of dark chocolate. The baker's wife Andrée named

it Theater Cake to commemorate a star opera dancer who

frequented the shop and her young students who loved

to play jumping-up-and-clicking-heels in the shop. This

cake has since become one of the representatives of French

baking, and is still Dalloyau's best-seller.

Fruit rouge in French is a general name for small black

and red berries and stone fruits, including the blueberry,

blackberry, strawberry, raspberry, mulberry, blackcurrant,

gooseberry, cherry and so on. This series of fruits have

enchanting colors and rich tastes, and are especially

suitable for making jams and desserts. Tarts with red

berries are good in taste and color, and are loved by all.

There are too many delicious foods in France, like wine,

cheese, dry sausage and goose liver paste, but all of them are

not so elegant as French desserts.

FOOD TALK饕饕不绝

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medoC – 10 years in China梅多克-中国十年

十年前,为了开发中国这一巨大的市场,

梅多克葡萄酒从业者希望能够为中国葡萄酒

的专业人士和爱好者组织一些活动,以帮助

他们更好地了解梅多克的葡萄酒。为此,梅

多克在中国的很多城市举办了葡萄酒大师班。

自 2007 年以来,梅多克的脚步遍布了整个

中国,销量增长约四至五倍,中国目前是梅

多克葡萄酒最大的出口国。

Ten years ago, in order to enter the huge market in China, Medoc wine practitioners hoped to organize some activities for Chinese wine professionals and enthusiasts to help them understand more about Medoc wine. So Medoc held wine master classes in many big cities in China. Since 2007, Medoc wines have spread all over China with its sales volume increasing roughly four to five times. Currently, China has become the largest importer of Medoc wines.

梅多克西临大西洋,东面与吉伦特河相交。北纬 45 度的

完美位置,使得这里日照充足,温度适宜,雨量适中,沙、砾石、

黏土、卵石、碎石共同组成了梅多克极为适合种植酿酒葡萄的

土壤。

梅多克葡萄酒最特别之处就在于,它是由不同葡萄品种酿

成的酒调配而成。从十八世纪开始,赤霞珠在波尔多地区出现,

梅多克缺乏营养但排水系统良好的砾石和沙质土壤,以及经常

出现的微风天气等地理环境都十分适合赤霞珠的栽培。赤霞珠

生命力旺盛,有良好的耐湿度且相对晚熟,所酿造的葡萄酒优雅,

色泽深红,富含单宁,并以微妙的香料、紫罗兰和雪松芳香著称,

且具有巨大的陈酿潜质。另一品种美乐则带来圆润、果香和清

爽的感觉。品丽珠酿出的葡萄酒有浓郁的陈酿酒香和鲜艳的色

泽。味而多种植数量软少,给葡萄酒带来生机与活力,它有淡

淡的紫罗兰清香,口感微酸,给葡萄酒镀上一层美丽的颜色。

经过调配,梅多克产生了种类多样的优质葡萄酒,品尝的乐趣

也各有不同。

列级名庄们1855 年,当政的拿破仑三世想借助巴黎万国博览会向全世

界各国推广波尔多葡萄酒,随即命令波尔多葡萄酒商会通过展

览会的形式进行推广,而波尔多商会则把这个重任委托给葡萄

酒经纪人辛迪加组织。

LAND 酒 国1855 年 4 月 18 日,辛迪加组织根据当时波尔多各个酒庄的

声望,和各酒庄葡萄酒的价格,确定了 58 个酒庄,命名为列级

酒庄。他们将所有酒庄分为五级,其中有 4 个一等酒庄,分别

为拉菲古堡、拉图酒庄、侯伯王酒庄和玛歌酒庄。12个二等酒庄,

14个三等酒庄,11个四等酒庄和 17个五等酒庄。这个分级里面

只包括梅多克地区的酒庄,唯一例外是格拉夫地区的酒庄侯伯

王酒庄,名列顶级一等酒庄的行列。

1973 年,对等级酒庄进行了一次修订,无论酒庄是否更名

易主,分割或合并,均保持最初评定的等级,唯一的例外是木

桐酒庄,在主人菲利浦男爵几十年的努力下,从原来的二等酒

庄晋升为 1 等酒庄。此时的等级酒庄已经增加到 61 个,其中一

等列级酒庄 5 个,二等列级酒庄 14 个,三等列级酒庄 14 个,

四等列级酒庄 10 个,五等列级酒庄 18 个,而这其中又以玛歌

区有 21 个酒庄在列级名单里面排在第一。

中级酒庄一些在 1855 年列级酒庄评选中落榜的梅多克酒庄被纳入了

中级酒庄之列。从理论上来说,中级酒庄的级别低于列级酒庄,

但仍属于高品质酒庄(以往还有艺术家酒庄和小农酒庄之分)。

许多葡萄酒作家认为列级酒庄和中级酒庄在质量评定标准上有

所交叉,但总的来说列级酒庄始终是最佳葡萄酒的代表。

第一份中级酒庄名单是由波尔多葡萄酒商会和法国农业公

署在 1932 年共同起草的,当时有 444 个酒庄入选。虽然这一评

级未经官方批准,但榜上有名的酒庄都将“中级酒庄”一词作

为商标广泛使用。2000 年起,中级酒庄名单被大幅修改,分级

划分成三类,最终于 2003 年确定了下来。经此,中级酒庄的数

量减少到了 247 个。经过一些法律程序,法国法院在 2007 年废

除了 2003 年的中级酒庄分级,并在不久之后禁止了所有“中级

酒庄”条目的使用。

2010 年,“中级酒庄”商标以全新的面貌回归。如今,中

级酒庄只含一个分级且每年颁发一次。基于对葡萄酒生产方法

和成品的评估,该称号的授予对象为酒庄出品的高质量葡萄酒

而非酒庄本身。所有梅多克地区的酒庄均可申请评级。入选名

单在葡萄酒酿成约两年之后发布。

梅多克中级名庄中国市场上已成为受到广大消费者认可的

一类葡萄酒:稳步上升的销售量、即使在优秀年份仍保持稳定

的价格、拥有著名法定产区称号的充沛产量、多样性等等,所

有这些都成为满足如中国一样广阔市场的必要条件。

艺术家酒庄艺术家酒庄是一个古老的称谓,其中的 “Artisan” 意

为 “艺术家”,因而这类酒庄也被成为“艺术家酒庄”。

艺术家酒庄起源于法国,大概在 19 世纪中期就已出现,在

2002 年正式受到欧盟认可;自 2006 年起,法国重新制定艺

术家酒庄的法规,艺术家酒庄正式成为法国官方葡萄酒法定

评级。如今,艺术家酒庄葡萄酒只在梅多克产区出产,其规

模普遍不大,占地面积较小,且常环绕在列级庄周围,葡萄

酒大多物美价优。通过法国艺术家酒庄官方葡萄酒法定评级

的共有 44 个酒庄。

小酒庄 小酒庄指的是那些一直都归某个家族所有并由其管理运

营,且在占地面积、酒庄名声和葡萄酒价格方面都不算突出

的酒庄。可以说,许多优质小酒庄生产的葡萄酒是整个波尔

多性价比最高的一类。。

Medocis situated on the east coast of the Atlantic and along the

west bank of Gironde Estuary. Perfectly located at 45 Degrees

N Latitude, the area enjoys abundant sunshine, favorable

temperature, moderate rainfall and rich soil composed of sand,

gravel, clay, pebbles and rubble, which are extremely suitable for

growing wine grape.

Medoc wines are varied mixed wines made from different grape

varieties, which expresses their typical characters. Cabernet

Sauvignon, one of these varieties, began to appear in Bordeaux

region in the 18th century. Medoc, with its poor gravel and sandy

soil which drains well and good weather with frequent breezes,

is very suitable for Cabernet Sauvignon cultivation.Cabernet

Sauvignon is a vigorous, humidity-resistant and late-maturing

crop. It can be used to vinify elegant wines with deep red color

and rich tannins. These wines are also famous for subtle notes of

spice, violet and cedar, and have great potential. Merlot, another

grape variety, has a round, fruity and cool taste. Wines made from

Cabernet Franc have a delicate vinous nose and bright color. Petit

Verdot is grown in small quantity yet brings wines with new

vitality. It has a sweet note of violet and a little acidity, and adds a

beautiful tone to wines. Medoc has produced a diversity of quality

wine by blending various kinds of grape varieties, which offers

people different fun in wine-tasting.

Grand Crus Classe The ruler Napoleon III wanted to promote Bordeaux to the rest

of the world in the 1855 Paris World Expo, and then ordered

Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce to complete this mission in the

form of exhibitions.Later the Chamber entrusted the important

mission to Syndicat of Courtiers, a wine agent.

On April 18, 1855, Syndicat of Courtiers selected 58 chateaux as

the Grand Cru Classe according to the prestige and wine price of

each chateau in Bordeaux. They classified the chateaux into five

classifications, including 4 First Growths (Premier Grand Cru

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FOOD TO CHINA 3130 FOOD TO CHINA

Wineland 酒国 上梅多克 Haut Medoc

有最适合赤霞珠生长的砾石土壤。这里出产的红酒有着严谨细密的单宁,口感强劲,结构匀称,是波尔多最耐久存的地区。The gravel soil of Haut-Medoc is best for growing Cabernet Sauvignon. Featuring delicate and fine grained tannins, wines produced here taste strong, and have a well-balanced texture as well as the longest storage duration in the Bordeaux region.

梅多克 Medoc

地势较低,土壤主要是粘土,表面覆盖着一些砂砾土壤,部分区域还是沼泽地,因此赤霞珠种植较少,但少数靠近河边,位于砾石土壤的葡萄园能酿出精彩久存的红酒。 It is a low-lying area, where the soil is mainly clay covered by gravel soil. Some parts of the area are marshlands. So Medoc produces less Cabernet Sauvignon, but those riverside vineyards with gravel soil do make durable fine wines.

圣爱斯泰夫 Saint Estephe

位置稍偏北,因此气候较凉爽,土壤由大比例的粘土和少量的砾石混合,赤霞珠在这里较难成熟。现在更多的酒庄增加美乐的种植比例,以增加丰盈柔和的口感。Located on the north side, Saint- Estephe enjoys a cooler climate. The soil here composes of a large portion of clay and a small portion of gravel, making it difficult to grow Cabernet Sauvignon. Now, many chateaus are planted with more Merlot for a richer and softer taste.

波亚克 Pauillac

大部分的葡萄园位于最精华的深厚砾石圆丘上,最适合赤霞珠的生长。波亚克聚集着众多的明星酒庄,五大一级庄中的三个都在波亚克村中。Most vineyards in Pauillac locate on its finest gravel mounds, which are best for growing Cabernet Sauvignon. Pauillac also attracts many famous chateaus, 3 of the 5 First Growths are situated here.

圣朱利安 Saint Julien

该地区以赤霞珠为主,酿出的酒的风格更加细腻优雅一些。圣朱利安葡萄园面积只有910公顷,却有11个列级酒庄位于此处,

其中有五个大名鼎鼎的二级庄。

This appellation emphasizes Cabernet Sauvignon with more delicate and elegant wine. Saint-Julien has only 910 hectares of vineyards, however, it has 11 Grand Cru chateaus, including 5 well-known Second Growths.

玛歌 Margaux

梅多克的列级酒庄中,玛歌就占了三分之一。玛歌村的酒以女性化风格、轻盈温顺、细腻柔美的口感而著称,这也和当地种植较多比例的美乐品种有关。Of all the Grand Cru chateaus in Medoc, one third of them are in Margaux. Margaux wines are distinguished for their feminine style, as well as gentleness and tenderness in taste, which come from the planting of a higher proportion of Merlot here.

穆利斯 Moulis

这片产区不大,与里斯特哈克的酒一样,本区的酒由于名气不大,价格也不太贵,比相同品质的梅多克其它产区的酒要便宜得多,可谓物超所值。It is a small appellation. Like the Listrac wines, Moulis wines are not expensive as they don’t have a high reputation. Consequently, this gives Moulis wines good value for money compared with wines of same quality from Medoc and other appellations.

里斯特哈克 Listrac

里斯特哈克最高海拔 43 米,也被称为“梅多克的屋顶”。该产区的酒都是物超所值的,通常价格只有同质量的其它梅多克产区酒

的 60% 至 70%。

Listrac is called “the roof of Médoc” for its highest elevation of 43 meters. Wines produced in this appellation are real bargains, as their prices are usually only 60% to 70% of those of other Medoc wines with the same quality.

Classe or Premiers Crus), namely Chateau Lafite Rothschild,

Chateau Latour, Chateau Haut-Brion and Chateau Margaux,

12 Second Growths (Deuxiemes Crus), 14 Third Growths

(Troisiemes Crus), 11 Fourth Growths (Troisiemes Crus) and

17 Fifth Growths (Cinquiemes Crus). All these chateaux are

in Medoc region except a First Growths Chateau Haut-Brion

located in the Grave region.

The list of Grand Cru Classe was revised once in 1973. Whether

or not the chateaux had changed their names or owners,or

whether they had been divided or merged, their grading

remained almost the same with the exception of Mouton-

Rothschild, which climbed from the Second Growth to the First

Growth under its master Baron Philippe’s decades of efforts.

Now, the number of Grand Crus Classe has increased to 61,

of which 5 are First Growths, 14 Second Growths, 14 Third

Growths, 10 Fourth Growths and 18 Fifth Growth. Among the

61 Grand Crus Classe, Margaux region ranks the first with 21

chateaux.

Cru Bourgeois The Cru Bourgeois classification lists some of the chateaux from

the Médoc that were not included in the 1855 Classification of

Crus Classés, or Classed Growths. Notionally, Cru Bourgeois is

a level below Cru Classe, but still of high quality (formerly there

were additional grades of Cru Artisan and Cru Paysan). Many

wine writers consider that there is some overlap in quality

between the Classed Growths and the Cru Bourgeois, although

also saying that by and large the Classed Growths still represent

the best wines.

The first Cru Bourgeois list was drawn up by the Bordeaux

Chamber of Commerce and Chamber of Agriculture in 1932,

selecting 444 estates for the classification. The words Cru

Bourgeois were widely used on labels by the chateaux so listed,

although the classification was never officially ratified. A

substantial revision of the classification, dividing it into three

tiers, was initiated in 2000 and finalised in 2003. This reduced

the number of chateaux listed to 247. Following several legal

turns, the 2003 Cru Bourgeois classification was annulled by the

French court in 2007, and shortly afterwards all use of the term

was banned.

In 2010, the Cru Bourgeois label was reintroduced, but in a

significantly revised form. It now consists of only one level, and

is awarded annually, as a mark of quality, to wines rather than

to chateaux, on the basis of an assessment of both production

methods and the finished product. Any property in the Medoc

may apply. The lists are published approximately 2 years after

the vintage.

Wines labeled as Medoc Cru Bourgeois are highly favored

in China market and well recognized by mass consumers:

the steadily rising sales volume, stable price even in the best

vintages, sufficient production from famous appellations and the

diversity of the wines, all of which are the prerequisites to meet

the demands of the huge China market.

Cru ArtisanCru Artisan is an old name, in which the “Artisan” refers to

“Artists”. Cru Artisan originated in France as early as the middle

of the 19th century and was officially recognized by European

Union in 2002. Since the French began to reformulate the laws

and regulations of Cru Artisan in 2006, Cru Artisan has formally

become a French official wine legal rating. Today, Cru Artisan

wines are produced in Medoc appellations only with small

grape planting scale covering less area, which can be frequently

found around the Grand Cru Classe. Most Cru Artisan wines

are of high quality with competitive price. Totally, there are 44

chateaux which are officially ratifiedby the French Cru Artisan.

Petits CruPetits Cru refers to those family-owned and family-run chateaux

that are less dominant on covering area, chateaux prestige or

wine price. However, the wines made inmany good quality Petits

Chateaux are the best buys in Bordeaux.

梅多克八大著名产区8 Renowned Appellations in Medoc

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如果说波尔多是全世界最让人耳熟能详的一个葡萄酒产区,

那么梅多克通常被人认为是“在波尔多最集中生产高品质葡萄酒

的一个子产区”。这一点梅多克可谓实至名归,在这片 840 多平

方千米的地方,分布着最为脍炙人口的四个一级名庄拉菲,拉图,

玛歌和木桐,其它为人所熟知的知名酒庄也不胜枚举。全世界的

葡萄酒收藏家和爱好者以异乎寻常的慷慨高价承认了这片土地所

出产的葡萄酒的品质。

说到法国几个经典产区的历史,其实梅多克只能算后起之秀,

直到 17 世纪中期这片土地看上去还像一大片沼泽遍布的牧场,

且不说与勃艮第(Burgundy)无法相提并论,就算跟与它毗邻的

格拉夫(Graves)也不可同日而语(前者有证据显示在公元前 45

年已有酿制葡萄酒,后者在中世纪时葡萄酒的交易已成一定规

模)。17世纪中期,天才的荷兰商人把他们的灌溉技术带到此地,

并建起了大片的葡萄酒庄园,很快酿造出了可跟他的邻居格拉夫

相匹敌的葡萄酒(在当时叫 Claret), 从那时一直到现在,梅多克

在葡萄酒界的荣光可说无可匹敌。

梅多克的成功有很多原因,很多人会说梅多克先有成功的商

人和商业运作,然后才有成功的酒庄。还是拿另一个同样脍炙人

口的产区勃艮弟来比较,如果走访两个地方的酒庄,你大概会发

现,勃艮第的葡萄酒人更多可用酒农来形容,他们谈的最多的是

如何侍弄他那一亩三分地,如何在已经比较恶劣的环境里得到更

多更好的葡萄,梅多克的葡萄酒人大概更像成功的商人,他们在

Why does medoC suCCeed?如何理解梅多克的成功?

谈论世界政治,好莱坞明星,如果不是因为窗外的大片葡

萄园,你没准会以为自己来到了华尔街呢。

回到葡萄酒本身,梅多克作为一个后起之秀而青出于

蓝(主要在商业上),离不开葡萄酒品质上乘而稳定。在

这一点上最重要的佐证就是 1855 年列级庄分级,这个分

级制度毫无争议是到目前为止最稳定最被认可的一个分级

制度。在之后各个产区推出了不少类似的分级制度,或因

为评上级别的酒庄品质不稳定,或因为各种争议等等问

题而成为一个徒有其名的名称而已甚至干脆废弃了。而

1855 年梅多克列级庄分级到今天这 161 年的时间里最大

的变化只不过就是把木桐从二级庄提升为一级庄。这被

很多葡萄酒爱好者奉为圣经一样的分级制度其实最初的

依据非常简单,就是当时各酒庄葡萄酒的售价。所以,

是先有梅多克的成功还是先有 1855分级制度的建立,就

像先有蛋还是先有鸡一样让人不知从何辩驳起。

关于价格,只要酒标上有梅多克三个字都不会太便

宜,如果酒是出自波亚克,玛歌等知名村庄,哪怕不是

名庄,价格都不菲,更别说列级名庄了。关于性价比是

个见仁见智的问题,为商品的“外延价值”付出多少价

格取决于太多因素。

If Bordeaux is the most familiar wine region to the world,

then Medoc is often considered to be “a sub-region of

Bordeaux that produces wines of the best quality”, which

Medoc well deserves. On this piece of area of over 840

square kilometers, there locate the most prestigious Chateau

Lafite Rothschild, Chateau Latour, Chateau Margaux,

Chateau Mouton Rothschild, and many other well-known

wineries. Wine collectors and enthusiasts around the world

recognize the quality of wines produced by this land with

unusually generous prices.

When it comes to the history of the French classical wine

regions, Medoc is only a rising star. It was like a large

swamp ranch until the middle of the 17th century. It lagged

far behind its neighbor Graves and could not be compared

with Burgundy at all (the former enjoyed a wine trade of

certain scale in the Middle Ages and the latter boasted a

wine-making history since 45 BC). In the mid-17th century,

the talented Dutch businessmen brought their irrigation

technology to Medoc and established many wine estates

there. Soon, Medoc made wines as good as those of its

neighbor Graves (whose wines at that time were called

Claret). From then on, Medoc has become unmatched in the

wine industry.

There are many reasons for the success of Medoc. Many

people say that Medoc benefits from its successful

businessmen and their business operations, which

contributes to the success of many wineries. If you

make a comparison, you will find that, wine people in

Burgundy, another well-known wine region, are more like

wine growers who mainly talk about how to look after

their vineyards and get more and better grapes when the

environment is relatively poor, while wine people in Medoc

are more like successful businessmen and they often talk

about world politics and Hollywood stars. Among the wine

people in Medoc, one may think he were in Wall Street if

not for the many vines outside the window.

Let’s get back to wines themselves. The reason that Medoc

can do better than many other wine producing areas (mainly

in business) and become a rising star greatly lies in its wines’ high

and stable quality. The most important proof of Medoc wines’ quality

is the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855 which by far is

considered to be the most stable and widely recognized classification

system. Since 1855, various wine regions have launched a number

of similar classification systems which either only exist in name or

were abolished due to the unstable quality of elected wineries or

other disputes. During the 161 years since 1955, the biggest change

of the Classification came when Chateau Mouton Rothschild was

promoted from Second Growth to First Growth status. Though it

has become the most important reference standard for many wine

lovers, the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855 in fact came

into being only on the basis of the price of wines at that time. As for

the question whether Medoc’s success or the establishment of the

1855 Classification System came first, it is like the chicken-and-egg

problem and people on both sides do not know where to start their

defenses.

As for the price, as long as the Medoc label is adopted, the wines will

not be too cheap. Even the wines made by common wineries are not

cheap, only if they are from Pauillac and Margaux villages, let alone

those by the Grands Crus Classes 1855. When it comes to the price,

different people hold different opinions as the price paid for the

“extended value” of goods depends on too many factors.

Maggie:

从 事 葡 萄 酒 行 业 8 年,2011 年通过 WSET 高级认证,现 WSET Diploma在读。

8 years in wine Industry, WSET advanced certification in wines and spirits, now studying for the WSET diploma

Wineland 酒国

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FOOD TO CHINA 3534 FOOD TO CHINA

Belarus aCtively enlarGes Food exPort CateGories to China 白俄罗斯积极扩大对华出口食品种类

大量种类的白俄罗斯食品有望进入中国市场,白俄罗斯

农业和食品部长雷奥尼(Leonid Zayats)对媒体如是说。“目

前 34 种乳制品已获准进入中国市场,还有 6 家肉类公司和

一家婴儿食品公司正在候选名单中”。据部长透露,白俄罗

斯在 2015 年出口中国的食品价值总额近 1500 万美元。

“凭借着良好的双边关系、多方面的合作协议,以及未

来可能的各种备忘录,现在是白俄罗斯各种产品进入中国市

场的好机会。我们的产品质量好,非常受欢迎。两家乳制品

公司 Babushkina Krynka 和 Savushkin Product 首次试水中国

市场,就收到了极大的欢迎, 今年白俄罗斯公司将全面获得

肉类和牛奶对中国出口的资格。11 月份,我们预期将获得禽

肉、牛肉和猪肉的出口证书”,雷奥尼部长补充。

IBelarus hopes to enter the Chinese market with a proposal

of a wide choice of food products. Belarus' Agriculture and

Food Minister Leonid Zayats told media. “34 dairies have been

permitted to the Chinese market. Six more meats and one baby

food companies are on pending decision,” the minister said.

According to Leonid Zayats, Belarus exported nearly $15 million

worth of food products to China in 2015.

“With these good relations, agreements and possible future

memorandums, this is a good opportunity to enter the Chinese

market with a wide variety of products. Because of high quality, our

products are very popular. The first attempt of Babushkina Krynka

and Savushkin Product show that their products are in high demand

here, This year Belarusian companies will receive full permission to

export meat and milk to China market. In November, we expect to

get a permit to export poultry, beef and pork,” the minister added.

After the lifting of restrictions in last May, dozens of meat-

packing factories in Brazil acquired the qualification certification

of exporting beef to China. Experts estimate that in the long term,

China and other Asian countries will see a greater demand for beef

because of the growth of household income and the transformation

of consumption structure.

2016 年 9 月 22 日,农业部公告宣布即日起,有条

件解除自 2001 年以来对美国 30 月龄以下剔骨牛肉、带

骨牛肉的禁令,允许符合中国追溯体系要求和检验检疫

要求的美国牛肉对华出口。

近一年来,美国的牛肉价格正处于近几年来价格低

谷。今年 7 月份的数据显示,美国肉牛的均价同比下滑

了25%。来自美国农业部的预测显示,到2017年美国优

质肉牛的均价将继续下跌,约合每公斤 17 至 19 元人民

币。

2015 年美国牛肉出口到全球 112 个国家,出口总额

达到 58 亿美元。总体来看,美国牛肉出口量约占美国

牛肉供应总量的 14%。如果此次真能恢复通往中国市场

的道路 , 无论从规模还是结构上,美国的牛肉出口都会

产生质的飞跃。

目前中国的大部分牛肉来自澳大利亚、乌拉圭和新

西兰等国。尤其是近年来中国相继与澳大利亚、新西兰

签订自贸协定后,这两个国家的牛肉开始大举涌入中国

市场。

一旦美国牛肉解禁,第一个受影响的可能是澳大利

亚。由于旱灾造成澳大利亚可供宰杀的牛短缺,导致澳

大利亚的牛肉价格暴涨,使得今年澳大利亚对中国的牛

肉出口已经下降了 35%。另一个主要竞争对手是巴西。

目前,巴西牛肉的价格比美国和澳大利亚都要低。针对

这一情况,美国业者已经着眼于抢占高端市场。

China reneWs us BeeF imPort美国牛肉恢复进口

On September 22, 2016, Ministry of Agriculture announced that with

immediate effect China will lift ban on US joint beef and beef with bones

with age less than 30 months which has been placed on since 2001,

allowing ticket for American beef that meet the requirements of China

traceability system and inspection and quarantine.

In the recent year, US beef price has been on low ebb. Statistics from July

indicates that the average price decreased by 25% year on year. United

States Department of Agriculture predicted that average price of high

grade US beef will continue to drop in 2017 to approximately 17-19 RMB

per kilogram.

In 2015, US beef had been exported to 112 countries with export value

reaching 5.8 billion dollars. Generally speaking, Beef export accounts for

14% of the total supply in US. If granted with access to China market, US

beef export will gain substantial growth both in size and composition.

At present, China’s imported beef mostly comes from Australia, Uruguay

and New Zealand. Especially after free trade agreements signed with

Australia and New Zealand, beef from these two countries has been

pouring into China market.

Once American beef ban lifted, the first country to be affected would

be Australia. Supply shortage caused by drought led to price surge

of Australian beef, which made exports to China decreased by 35%.

Another competitor is Brazil. At present, price of Brazilian beef is lower

than those of American and Australian beef. In response, Americans has

been focusing on seizing the high end market.

Continued raPid GroWth oF PorK imPort猪肉进口量持续大增

海关总署昨日公布了 2016 年 1-8 月份的进口数据,显示

前8月进口猪肉总量达 113.8 万吨,进口金额比去年同比增长

270.9%,达历史新高。其中 8 月进口猪肉量达 192348 吨,比

7 月份有小幅增长。

猪肉进口持续增加,带动了国际猪肉价格走高,内外价

差缩小。按照 8 月份冻肉进口到港价格 2128.18 美元 / 吨,折

算进口完税价格大概在 18 元 / 公斤。2 月份进口完税成本仅

为15元 /公斤。猪肉内外价差扩大,按照当前国内猪肉价格,

后期猪肉进口将显著增加,不排除在 11 和 12 月份期间,猪

肉单月进口量超过 20 万吨,最终导致全年猪肉进口达到或接

近 200 万吨,加上进口猪杂碎,猪肉总进口接近 300 万吨,

占国内猪肉总供应比例超过 5%。

According to data released by General Administration of Customs,

pork import in the first 8 months of 2016 totaled 1.138 million tons,

the value of which increased by 270.9% year-on-year, hitting a new

record . Pork import in August totaled 192,348 thousand tons, a

small increase compared with the number in July.

Continued pork import growth drives the rise of international

pork price, narrowing the price gap between home and abroad.

The price of frozen meat imported in Hong Kong was 2.12818

thousand dollars per ton, approximately 18 RMB per kilogram

with import duties included. The number was 15 RMB in February.

Price gap between home and abroad had been growing. Based on

domestic pork price, pork import will substantially increase in the

rest of the year. It’s a possibility that pork import in November and

December will exceed 0.2 million tons monthly, which will lead to

total import of 2 million tons annually. The number will approach

3 million tons if taking imported pig entrails into computation,

accounting for over 5% of total domestic pork supply.

日前,国家质检总局发布新规,增加了十余种允许进

境的新鲜水果。新增水果种类有美国草莓、意大利柑橘、

澳大利亚油桃、新西兰柿子、波兰苹果、土耳其樱桃、

尼泊尔柑橘、智利油桃等。截至目前,我国准入的新鲜

水果原产国家和地区已达43个,开放水果种类近200种。

Recently, a new announcement by General Administration

of Quality Supervision added over 10 fresh fruits into the

import list, including strawberry from America, tangerines

from Italy, nectarines from Australia, persimmon from

New Zealand, apples from Poland, cherries from Turkey,

tangerines form Nepal, nectarines from Chile. So far, nearly

200 kinds of fruits from 43 countries and regions have

gained the ticket to China market.

China alloWs Fruits From several Countries多国水果获准入华

注:上期杂志刊出的西班牙樱桃出口有误,西班牙樱桃对中国出口还正在洽谈阶段,特此更正。西班牙已经获得准入中国的水果包括:柑橘、橙、葡萄柚、柠檬、桃和李。Note: there is a mistake regarding Spanish cherry export to China. It’s still under negotiation. Spain has received permit for exporting the following fruits to China: tangerine, orange, grapefruit, lemon, peach and plum.

China Market 中国市场

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FOOD TO CHINA 3736 FOOD TO CHINA

GeorGia Will exPort Wine to China duty Free格鲁吉亚葡萄酒将零关税进口

格鲁吉亚与中国结束了已持续 7 个月的谈判。完成

相应手续之后,自由贸易协定将开始生效。从 2017 年下

半年开始,格鲁吉亚红酒、矿泉水以及核桃等农产品,

进入中国市场将不需要交纳任何关税,并且没有任何过

渡期。这意味着格鲁吉亚葡萄酒将会零关税出口,这将

提升格鲁吉亚葡萄酒在中国的竞争优势。

4 年之前,格鲁吉亚的目标是占有中国进口葡萄酒市

场的 1%,即 300 万瓶。这个目标已经完成,去年,格鲁

吉亚已经出口了 500 万瓶葡萄酒到中国。而现在的目标

则是五年内,每年销售 2000 万瓶葡萄酒。当自贸协订生

效后,格鲁吉亚将成为在高加索地区内第一个与中国签

署此类协议的国家。

格鲁吉亚在欧洲以优质的白葡萄酒著称,但是出口

到中国的 80% 是红葡萄酒,因为中国是世界上最大的红

酒消费国,其他的出口品包括起泡酒和白兰地。格鲁吉

亚有着“美酒摇篮”的美誉,经考古学家考证,其悠久

的酿酒历史可追溯到 6 千年前。格鲁吉亚有 525 种公认

的葡萄品种,出口到中国的葡萄酒大多是口感浓郁的沙佩拉维

Saperavi 红 - 黑佳酿。

China and Georgia concluded their Free Trade Agreement (FTA)

negotiations, with a landmark memorandum of understanding signed

in Tbilisi. After the implementation of the FTA agreement, Chinese

enterprises and consumers will have greater access to high quality

products like wine and fruits from Georgia, while Georgians will

benefit from cheaper China-made industrial products.

Four years ago, the target is to become 1 percent of total Chinese wine

imports, which at that time was about 300 million bottles. That goal

already reached, selling 5 million bottles to China last year. The target

now is to be selling 20 million bottles annually five years from now.

After the free trade treaty takes effect, Georgia will become the first

country in Caucasus region to have such relation with China.

While Georgia may be most famous in Europe for its quality white

wines, exports to China are 80 percent red wines, as China is the

world's largest consumer of red wines. Sparkling wine and brandy

make up the remaining exports. Georgia claims the title of the

"cradle of wine," with a tradition of winemaking that archaeologists

have documented going back 6,000 years. The country also has 525

recognized grape varieties, but the bulk of wines that go to China

are the rich, red-black vintages of Saperavi.

智利葡萄酒行业协会年底将出炉 2016-2025 战略规划,目前透

露其重点主要包括优质酒的价格策略(例如在美国市场上零售价 12

美元一瓶的红酒),首选中国、美国和巴西市场,以及着眼于在全

球范围内迅速增长的女性消费者群体。

智利是世界上第四大葡萄酒出口国,同时也是新世界葡萄酒的

最大出口国,葡萄酒行业协会希望在全球范围内进一步提升智利葡

萄酒的形象和认知度。

中国和巴西的葡萄酒市场潜力仍待开发,目前人均消费量仅 1.2

升和 1.7 升。根据英国葡萄酒研究机构“酒智”的预测,中国 2025

年将有 1.6亿进口葡萄酒消费者,而2015年这一数字只有4800万。

美国市场的特点则是 21-38 岁的千禧一代成为葡萄酒的消费主力。

2016 上半年中国进口葡萄酒海关数据公示,进口瓶装葡萄酒总

量约为 2.23 亿升,同比上涨 56%;总额约为 11.09 亿美元,同比上

涨 69%;平均价格为每升 4.97 美元,同比上涨 8.30%。上半年散装

葡萄酒总量约为 7066 万升,同比上涨 52.50%;总额约为 5134 万美

元,同比上涨56.10%;平均价格为每升0.73美元,同比上涨2.80%。

上半年起泡酒进口总量约为 637 万升,同比上涨 31.10%;总额约为

2656 万美元,同比上涨 8.00%;平均价格为每升 4.17 美元,同比下

降 17.60%。

Chile Wine Industry Association will release 2016-2025 strategic

planning in the end of the year, which according to disclosure, mainly

includes setting price policy for high grade wine (for example, 12 USD

per bottle in US retail market), targeting China, USA and Brazil as key

markets, and promoting rapid growth of female consumers worldwide.

Chile is the fourth biggest wine exporter in the world as well as the

number one exporter of New World Wine. Wine Industry Association

wants to promote image and brand recognition of Chilean wine around

the globe.

With per capita consumption of 1.2 and 1.7 liters respectively, there

are still a large room for growth in China and Brazil wine markets.

China, usa, Brazil tarGeted as Key marKets in Chile’s deCade Wine Plan 智利葡萄酒十年规划首选中国、美国、巴西市场

According to forecast by Wine Intelligence, China will

have 160 millions imported wine consumers in 2025. The

number is 48 millions in 2015. US market features 21-38

old Millenials as the backbone of consumption.

According to China customs statistics of the first half

year, imported bottled wine totaled 223 million liters

and 1.109 billion dollars, an year-on-year increase of

56 % and 69 % respectively. The average price was 0.73

dollars per liter, a year-on-year increase of 2.80 % . The

total import of sparkling wine totaled 6.37 million liters

and approximately 26.56 million dollars, a year-on-year

increase of 31.10% and 8.00% respectively. The average

price was 4.17 dollars per liter, decreased by 17.60% year-

on-year.

中国已批准 17 家立陶宛乳制品企业向中国出口产品,

包括炼乳、黄油、奶酪、奶粉、浓缩蛋白等。 Vilkyskiu

Pienine --- 立陶宛最大的乳制品公司之一,第一个获得了

对华乳品出口权,计划将很快发送20吨马苏里拉奶酪到中国。

过去立陶宛 20%-40% 的乳制品都出口到俄罗斯,2014 年 8

月,因俄罗斯宣布对立陶宛实行食品禁令,立陶宛失去了高

利润的俄罗斯市场,因而中国这个巨大的市场对立陶宛而言

就变得至关重要。在立陶宛,有 20 多家牛奶生产企业。而

China alloWs dairy imPorts From lithuania立陶宛向中国出口奶制品获得批准

最大的几家:Pieno Zvaigzdes, Rokiskio Suris, Zemaitijos Pienas,

Vilkyskiu Pienin 和 Marijampoles Pieno Konservai 占生产总量的

94%。

China has approved a list of 17 Lithuanian dairy processing companies

allowed to export their products to the huge market. Lithuanian

establishments will be able to export condensed milk, butter, cheese,

milk powder, protein concentrates and other dairy production.

Vilkyskiu Pienine, one of Lithuania's largest milk processing companies, was the

first one to go public about the clearance, planning to dispatch the first shipment

of 20 tons of mozzarella to China shortly. The enormous market is crucial for

Lithuania, which lost the highly profitable Russian market in the wake of the

food embargo announced by Russia in August of 2014. Lithuanian dairies used

to export about 20-40 percent of their output to Russia. In Lithuania, over 20

companies process milk, while the largest dairies, Pieno Zvaigzdes, Rokiskio

Suris, Zemaitijos Pienas, Vilkyskiu Pienin and Marijampoles Pieno Konservai,

account for processing of about 94% of the milk.

China Market 中国市场

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榜单savor the taste oF the sea and aPPreCiate the World’s toP ten oysters亲吻大海的味道:全球十大名蚝赏鉴 在古希腊传说中,牡蛎是代表爱的食物。如果维纳斯是诞生于蓝色海洋一

枚洁白的贝壳之上,牡蛎恐怕就是她留给世人最后的诱惑。

“她”有很多美丽的别名,“神赐魔食”、“根之源”、“海中牛奶”,

为人熟知的名字是蚝。在享乐主义盛行的 17 世纪欧洲,法国美食家曾在食谱

中如此描述“进入牡蛎的世界就像掀开熟睡中女人的长裙,你必须小心翼翼。

不然熟睡中的女人会清醒,在清醒的世界里,一切的意乱情谜都瞬间消失……”

撬开蚝壳,白色略带透明的蚝肉轻微地收缩着,带着海水咸味的汁液,诱

人无比。 而品尝这道美味的旅程,正是由这一口带着咸腥味道的海水开启——

这是来自“她”的诞生之地最原始的记忆。

不同国家有着不同的方法来品鉴这大海的魔力,自然也有那一片深邃海域

的“代表作”。长长的法国吉拉多、猫爪似的熊本蚝、扁扁的贝隆铜蚝,还是

小个子的奥林匹亚蚝,从香甜的奶油味、清新的海藻味、到甘醇的坚果味,以

至浓重的金属味,每种味道都存有不同海域的记忆。

In ancient Greek legend, oyster is the food of love. If Venus was born on a white shell in the blue ocean, then oyster might be the last temptation she left for the world.Oyster has a lot of beautiful aliases among which “God-Given Magic Food”, “the Source of Libido” and “Milk from the Sea” are some well-known ones. In the 17th century when hedonism prevailed in Europe, French gourmets once described in a recipe that “entering the world of an oyster is like lifting the skirt of a sleeping woman. You must be careful, or else the woman will be awoken. In a sober world, all the spell would instantly disappear ...”When you pry open the oyster shell, you will see the slightly transparent white oyster meat gently contracts within the briny seawater, extremely tempting. The tasting of this delicacy begins with a mouthful of salty seawater which reveals the most primitive memory about the birthplace of the oyster.Different countries have different ways to appreciate the magic food of the sea, and certainly boast the “representative oyster” of the seas around them, such as the long Gillardeau, the cat’s claw-like Kumamoto, the flat Belon and the small Olympia oyster. Each flavor, from sweet cream and fresh algae to rich nut and strong metal, carries the memory of different sea areas.

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FOOD TO CHINA 4140 FOOD TO CHINA

胡炜杰生蚝体验馆 总裁

Ricky HuCEO, Oyster Talks

xPlore the “oyster World”一窥“蚝门”风采E

位于广州珠江新城的Oyster Talks生蚝体验馆,门面低调不起眼,却是城中资深“蚝

客”们的驻足之地,因为在这里,不但能品尝到来自世界各地的名蚝,还能与同好交

流品蚝经,不亦乐乎。老板 Ricky 涉足“蚝门”多年,可算是城中最专业的玩蚝人。

数年前,受从事餐饮业多年的哥哥影响,兄弟俩尝试开了第一家生蚝体验馆,凭着对

生蚝的专业研究和热爱,在城中打响了名堂。如今,食客们都会慕名而至,想要一窥“蚝

门”风采。

说到生蚝最著名的产地,自然首推法国,而法国生蚝也正是店里的主推产品。

Ricky 每年都会至世界各地寻蚝,主要的目的地当然是法国的蚝场。法国是全世界最具

规模的生蚝产地,也是欧洲第一个大规模养殖生蚝的国家,已达数千个生蚝养殖场。

凭借拥有 2000 多英里的海岸线,和世界上最好的天然生蚝河床,法国生蚝无论从品种

到味道都非常复杂,光是法国生蚝的品牌数量也有几千个。每个品牌旗下的生蚝都因

海水和潮汐及养殖技术的差异化,导致产出生蚝的口感也各具特色,为世界上最复杂

的美味,法国生蚝也因此驰名全球。

据Ricky介绍:不同的微生物会让生蚝的味道发生变化,令其带上榛子味、水果味、

烟熏味、花香味……而同一个海域,如果养殖的生蚝数量过多,还会影响到生蚝的质量,

因此蚝农会带着自己的生蚝去不同水域“精养”。6 个月大的蚝,会先在蚝厂的培养

室内静养到指甲大小,再被带去水质优良的海域养上 24 至 36 个月,最后再去急流的

峡湾精养,由于急流会带来多种不同的浮游生物,能使生蚝带上不同的风味。经过 12

个月后,它们就会被带去带盐田的海域内净化,让生蚝吐净泥沙,耗时 7 到 10 个月,

就可以被打包送往世界各地了。

由于法国蚝农致力于研发新蚝种,生蚝品种极多,连当地食客也不能尽数分辨,

因此法国人以三个级别来区分蚝质高下,依次为 Fine de claire、special de clair 与

pousse en clair。最后一级的法国蚝需要得到法国农业部门的认证,这种蚝的出肉率

去到 10% 以上,每平方米海域只养 2 至 5 只。前两级的差别在“肉值指数”上,肉值

指数指的是生蚝肉和整个生蚝的重量比例,指数越高,代表能吃到的肉越多。一般来说,

肉值指数超过 6.5,就是 Fine de claire,超过 9,则是 special de claire。

至于如何区分生蚝的大小,法国铜蚝是按“0”来分等级,“0”越多代表越大,

而其它蚝种都是以 1 到 5 号来标示,数字越小,表示尺码越大。然而在 Ricky 看来,

法国蚝并非个头越大越好吃,事实上小蚝吃起来更为肉嫩膏腴,不同于大蚝之肉糙,

容易吃腻。2 号、3 号的蚝肉反而肥嫩多汁,味道较为均衡。

虽然生蚝吃法很多,但美食家们始终最推崇生吃,因为最能体现原汁原味。顶级

的生蚝都是来自无污染海域,还自带几千公里外的海水佐食,所以可以放心的享用这

纯天然的原始滋味。撬开生蚝后,将其 45 度角倾斜,先吮吸咸咸的海水,再用叉子将

蚝肉整只划入口中,然后细细咀嚼,能品尝出层次丰富的前味、中味和后味,吞下后

还能回味口腔内的余甘,根本无需添加任何调料,已是无上的美味。

Oyster Talks, located in Zhujiang New Town of Guangzhou

with a low-profile facade, is a gathering place for experienced

“oyster lovers” to enjoy famous oysters from all over the world and

communicate with other people with common interest. Ricky,

CEO of Oyster Talks, has indulged himself in the “oyster world”

for many years and is one of the top oyster experts in Guangzhou.

A few years ago, with rich experience in the catering industry,

Ricky and his brother started their first oyster experience

restaurant. With their professional research on and love for

oysters, their restaurant quickly rose to fame. Today, many diners

are attracted to their restaurant to explore the “oyster world”.

Speaking of the most famous oyster origin, France will come to

one’s mind first, and French oysters are exactly the main materials

used in Oyster Talks. Every year Ricky goes around the world to

seek for excellent oysters and his main destinations are of course

French oyster farms. France is the world’s largest oyster producer

and first European country to breed oysters in large scale. With

more than 2,000 miles of coastline and the world’s best natural

oyster breeding bed in France, French oysters are diverse not

only in species but also in flavor. France now owns thousands of

oyster farms and oyster brands. Due to different sea waters, tides

and breeding technologies, each French oyster brand has its own

characteristics, all together make France well-known worldwide

for the most complex and delicious oyster species.

According to Ricky, different microbes may endow oysters with

varied flavors such as hazelnut, fruity or smoked tastes or floral

fragrance. If there are too many oysters bred in the same area, the

quality of oysters will be affected. Therefore, oyster farmers will

take their own oysters to other waters for “intensive cultivation”.

Six-month-old oysters will be first raised to the size of a finger

nail in the incubation chambers of oyster factories and then taken

to waters of good quality to be bred for 24 to 36 months. Later,

the oysters will be transferred to some fjords to obtain a variety

of flavors as the torrents can bring different plankton. After 12

months, they will be brought to sea areas with salt pans to get rid

of sediments within their bodies for seven to ten months. After

that, the oysters will be wrapped up and sent to various corners

of the world.

As French oyster farmers are committed to the development of

new oyster species, there are so many oyster species in France

that even the local diners are not fully able to distinguish them. So

the French divided oysters into three quality levels, namely Fine

de Claire, Special de Claire and Pousse en Claire. Oysters of the

last level need to be certified by French agricultural departments,

the meat rate of which should be over 10% and only two to five

raised in per square meter of sea area. The difference between the

first two levels lies in the “Indice de qualite AFNOR” which refers

to the proportion of the oyster meat weight to the whole oyster

weight. The higher the index, the more meat. In general, a meat

ratio index over 6.5 marks the level of Fine de Claire, and an index

over 9 means Special de Claire.

As for how to distinguish the oyster sizes, the

French Belon oysters are graded with the numbers

of “0”. The more “0”s, the larger the Belon oysters.

Other oyster species are marked with the numbers

from 1 to 5. The smaller the number, the larger the

oysters. In Ricky’s view, regarding French oysters,

a bigger size doesn’t necessarily make better taste.

In fact, different from the large oysters with rough

meat which makes it easy for diners to get cloyed,

smaller oysters are tenderer and juicier, especially

those of NO.2 and NO.3 which are quite tender and

juicy with a more balanced taste.

Though there are many ways to eat oysters, the

gourmets always recommend eating oysters fresh

and raw, because they believe this way keeps the

most authentic oyster taste. The top oysters are from

pollution-free waters. Diners can rest assured to

enjoy the pure natural raw taste with the seawater

from thousands of kilometers away in the shells. Pry

open the oysters, tilt them at a 45-degree angle, first

suck the salty seawater inside, then push the whole

oyster into the mouth with a fork, and chew slowly to

appreciate the rich layers of taste. After swallowing

the meat, there is still an aftertaste lingering in the

mouth. There is no need to add any spices, for the

fresh raw oysters are the supreme delicacy.

对话

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法国生蚝界的王者,被誉为“蚝中之王”。 此

蚝为扁型蚝,产自咸淡水交接的法国贝隆河口,因

为具有独特的金属味气息,又被称为铜蚝。1864年,

有一个叫做索尔米尼亚的家族最早在贝隆河口养殖

生蚝,并慢慢建立起贝隆生蚝的名声,至今这个百

年历史的家族仍在经营着生蚝业。

贝隆河口出产的贝隆蚝的生长条件极为严苛,

贝隆生蚝每年只繁殖一次,大约到了二三月,海温

上升到 10 度以上,便开始生成精子或卵子,母蚝在

七八月间开始生产幼蚝。一百多年来,收集蚝苗的

传统做法通常用表面涂着一层石灰的瓦片作为采苗

器,成堆地放于潮间带,让蚝苗自己依附在上面。

因为成长期较其他蚝类要慢近一倍时间,贝隆蚝的

品质也愈发出众,味浓而甘香,是法国蚝的首选。

由于培育贝隆蚝的条件异常苛刻,从蚝苗到成年不

仅要“走”遍大大小小四五个海域,更要历时长达

三年的时间,因而她们的的生命也更脆弱,对水质

极其敏感。

贝隆生蚝不是一年四季都能吃到,最好月份是

在九月、十月、十一月和十二月。贝隆蚝等级分为

11 等,是依照蚝壳的大小和重量来分级,最小的是

No.6,大一点是 No.5,如此类推。在 No.1 之后,再

大一点的会以“0”来评级。90 克的为“0”,最大

是“00000”。太小的无肉吃,太大的肉会韧,所以

三四个“0”的也就是养了 3 至 5 年左右的最好吃,

咬感和味道都达颠峰。贝隆生蚝获得了法国

AOC 的产地认证。

风味特征:贝隆蚝入口有浓郁的矿物味和海草

的香气,中味澎湃刺激,后味内敛清新,金属

味强烈,所带来的麻痹感会由舌头两侧蔓延至

口腔,劲度十足。初接触生蚝的人可能会觉得

贝隆蚝太过重口,但它却是许多生蚝行家们的

最爱。

The champion among French oysters, reputed

as “the King of Oysters”. The flat Belon oyster

is produced from the mouth of the Belon River,

where salt water and fresh water is mixed. With

a specific metallic flavor, it is also called bronze

oyster.

In 1864 the Solminihac family became the earliest

culturist of Belon oyster and gradually built up its

reputation. Till now this century-old family still

runs its oyster business.

Belon oysters have high demands on their growth

conditions. They only breed once a year. In

February or March, when the sea temperature

rises to 10 degree or above, Belons begin to produce

sperms or eggs. The female Belons propagate

during July and August. For over a century, the

traditional method of collecting young oysters is to

use limed tiles as collectors and pile them up in the

inter-tidal zone, so that young oysters can stick

themselves onto the tiles. As their growth period

is twice as long as that of other types of oysters,

the Belon oyster has an outstanding quality, thick

taste and pleasant aroma and is always people’s

first choice among French oysters. A young Belon

usually spends three years traveling through four

to five sea areas before it matures. These rigorous

地中海沿岸的埃罗省(Hérault)生蚝养殖业主

Florent在南法埃罗省大奥塘的自己家蚝场里,用“人

工模拟潮汐”这种疯狂的方式养殖出了当今法国最昂

贵的生蚝—玫瑰生蚝。这种来自法国产区被誉为世

界上最完美的生蚝,产量相当稀少,要经过蚝场至少

36 个月的认真养殖,最后再经过 25 道严格的手工筛

选和检验后,才能成为一颗玫瑰。

风味特征:被誉为“法国生蚝公主”的玫瑰生蚝肉质

丰满,口味甘甜,后味悠长有榛子及菌菇的香气,外

壳有微粉色,她所含的微量元素具有美容养颜,宁心

安神,益智健脑的功效,对女性尤为滋补。

This type of French oysters is reputed as the perfect

oysters in the world but their production is very low. In

order to create a comfortable environment for them, the

local spent several million Euros adopting intermittent

water separation technology to create “artificial tides”,

which both realizes green cultivation and improves the

oyster quality. In this way, the oyster shell turns light

pink and the flesh become tight.

Tarbouriech 玫瑰生蚝

Tasting Notes:Reputed as “Princess of French Oysters”, the Tarbouriech

is plump and sweet with a long aftertaste of hazelnut and mushroom. Their

shells look light pink. The micro-elements they contain are helpful to maintain

beauty, tranquilize mind and enhance brain development, and particularly

good for women.

FOOD TO CHINA 4342 FOOD TO CHINA

France 法国

France 法国

榜单

Belon 贝隆

growth conditions make Belons fragile and particularly

sensitive to water quality.

Belon oysters are not available in every season, and the

best time to savor it is September, October, November

and December. They are classified into eleven grades by

the size and weight of shells, among which No.6 marks

the smallest, followed by No.5 larger, and so forth.

After No.1 here comes “0”, which indicates 90g, and the

highest grade is “00000”. If the oyster is too small, there

will hardly be anything to eat, while if it is too large, the meat will be tough.

Therefore, those of the grade “000” or “0000”, which have been cultivated for

three to five years, have the best texture and taste. Besides, the Belon oyster has

been recognized by AOC (L’appellation d’origine contrôlée).

Tasting Notes: The first bite gives a strong taste of minerals and see-weed;

the middle taste is pungent and stimulating; and the aftertaste is mild and

fresh. It has a strong metallic flavor, bringing paralysis in from both sides of the

tongue to the mouth cavity. For those who taste Belons for the first time, the

flavor may be too strong, but it is the favorite of many oyster connoisseurs.

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榜单

绿翡翠的独特之处在于蚝肉呈现一种晶莹剔透的绿色,宛如翡

翠一般。这种顶级生蚝,都贴有“红色标签”,由法国农业部颁予,

代表着非常严格的质量控制体系。只有通过检验标准的生蚝才能获

得这个标签。

翡翠蚝在充满低密度野生蓝硅藻的水域中生活,他们不断的滤

食着营养美味的蓝硅藻,蓝色素分子也缓慢地堆积到了腮部,在和

本身嫩黄的腮部发生调色板反应后就产生了这种宝贵的绿色(黄色

L’emeraude 绿翡翠

FOOD TO CHINA 4544 FOOD TO CHINA

Gillardeau 吉拉多

每一个出自法国吉拉多公司的正品生蚝,在蚝壳上都有一

个独一无二的 G 字印章。Gillardeau 代表的是一个超过百年的

生蚝养殖家族,更是极少数以养殖者名称命名的顶级生蚝。

在上世纪 70 年代,有一位叫吉拉多的法国人发明了生蚝

的养殖技术,并在当地得到快速应用。吉拉多是法国第一家

以自己家族名号为蚝种命名的公司。吉拉多蚝养殖于法国西

部的拉罗歇尔和奥列隆岛,每一颗吉拉多蚝都需经过 59 道繁

复的养殖手法,历时至少 4 年以上才能上市,即使巴黎的米

其林三星餐厅,每到生蚝季节,也都会以能够供应吉拉多蚝

为骄傲。

风味特征:吉拉多肉质丰硕饱满,味道复杂得难以形容!入

口鲜香味扑来,短暂的爽脆以后,是超级丰盈的软滑感觉,

外形小巧的熊本蚝,原产自日本九州岛的熊本地区,其

生长速度缓慢,至少需 3 年左右时间才能长成至适合食用

的大小。熊本蚝壳体颜色较深,因日本海水污染问题,1945

年被移植到美国,在加州、俄勒冈和华盛顿州开始繁殖。熊

本蚝因口感较易为人接受,非常受欢迎,是美国最为著名的

生蚝品种之一。

风味特征:熊本蚝口味浑厚顺口,入口起初是淡淡的咸味,

而后转为鲜甜,并带有水果的馨香以及矿物质的天然味道,

口感清爽怡人,非常适合较少食用生蚝的人品尝。

Kumamoto oysters originated from the Kumamoto area of

Kyushu in Japan. They are small and grow slowly. It takes at

least three years or so for them to grow into the size suitable for

consumption. Kumamotos have dark shells. Due to the pollution

of the seas of Japan, they were transferred to the United

States in 1945, and began to be bred in California, Oregon and

Washington. As the taste of Kumamotos is easier to be accepted,

they are very popular in America and have become one of the

most famous oyster species in America.

Tasting Notes:Full and smooth, the first bite tastes slightly

salty, then fresh and sweet, with the fragrance of fruits and the

natural flavor of minerals. Their refreshing and pleasant taste is

very suitable for people who seldom eat oysters.

Kumamoto 熊本蚝 America 美国

+蓝色=绿色),这就是“翡翠蚝”形成的原因。

非常罕见,但却 100% 纯天然。

风味特征:蚝肉如同奶油一般,内里紧实外圈

肥嫩,入口弹牙,刚入口时有着浓郁的海水味

道,慢慢变得鲜甜,之后的金属气息夹带着的

榛果香味在暗涌的肉汁中弥漫开来,口感层次

非常多,让人回味无穷。

然后榛子、碘香徐徐出现,细品后又感觉有微微烟熏以及酒

香……被称为“蚝中的劳斯莱斯”,也是行家口中最像葡萄

酒的生蚝。

There is a unique “G” mark on the shell of every oyster

produced by Gillardeau, a century-old oyster breeding family.

The Gillardeau oyster is one of the few top categories which are

named after the culturist.

In the 1970s, a Frenchman named Gillardeau invented an oyster

cultivation technique, which was quickly applied in the local.

Gillardeau was France’s first oyster company to name itself

after the owner’s family name. Gillardeau oysters are cultivated

in La Rochelle and île d’Oléron in western France. Each oyster

should go through fifty-nine steps in at least four years before

entering the market. When it comes to the oyster season, even

the Michelin three-star restaurants in Paris are proud of selling

Gillardeau oysters.

Tasting Notes:Meat is plump, with a complex flavor that is

hard to describe. The first bite is delicious and crisp, and soon

there comes the super-rich creamy taste, followed by the flavor

of hazelnut and iodine. After a careful tasting, a mild smoked

and wine flavor appears… Gillardeaus are reputed as “the Rolls-

Royce in oysters”, and regarded by the connoisseurs as the

oyster which is most like wine.

France 法国

France 法国

The unique feature of L'emeraude oysters is their crystal-clear, jade-like flesh.

This type of top oysters is labeled with “red tag” issued by the French Ministry for

Agriculture, representing a strict quality control system. Only the qualified oysters

can be labeled with this tag.

L'emeraude oysters live in the waters which are full of low-density wild blue

algae, an alimentative food they continuously filter-feed themselves. As a result,

cyanine gradually accumulates in their bright yellow gill and cause palette reaction,

producing the green color (yellow + blue = green). It is rare but 100% natural.

Tasting Notes:The flesh tastes like cream, tight inside and plump outside. The

first bite brings a strong flavor of seawater; and the middle taste is fresh and sweet,

followed by a metallic tone along with hazelnut aroma spreading through the gravy.

The multiple layers of flavor as well as the long aftertaste are quite impressive.

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新西兰是发达国家中唯一一个以农业为主的国家,全国几乎

没有大型的工业设施,污染度完全为零。四周又被广阔的太平

洋包裹,拥有全世界最优秀最干净的水质。远离人口密集区,

自然环境优美,海岸线绵长,水源清澈,促使新西兰成为海鲜

养殖最为理想的国家之一。

布拉夫的生蚝产自南岛最南端和新西兰最大的近海岛屿斯图

尔特岛 (Stewart Island) 之间的福沃斯海峡,这里的海水寒冷而

清澈,产出的生蚝肉多鲜美,被誉为世界上最好的生蚝之一。

每年蚝季,布拉夫都会举行一个生蚝节,最特别的是有开生

蚝和吃生蚝比赛。

风味特征:布拉夫蚝身扁平,外形象扇贝,体型也较小,肉味鲜

甜,与我们常吃的蚝不同。 布拉夫蚝生长在深冷的海水中肉质

鲜美爽脆,但浓重的金属味非一般蚝客所能驾驭,所以也有小

贝隆之称。它的金属感相比贝隆更为尖锐,持久,爆发力强。

New Zealand is the only agriculture-oriented country among

developed economies. There are few large industrial facilities and

no pollution in the country. Surrounded by the vast Pacific Ocean,

it has the world’s cleanest water of the best quality. Being far away

Bluff 布拉夫蚝

from the densely populated areas, with beautiful natural

environment, a long coastline and clear water, New Zealand

has become one of the ideal nations of seafood breeding.

Bluff oysters come from the Foveaux Strait which is between

the southernmost point of the South Island and the Stewart

Island, the largest offshore island of New Zealand. With the

cold and clean water, the oysters fostered there are very fresh

with plump meat, known as one of the best oyster species in

the world.

In every oyster season, Bluff will hold an oyster festival of

which the most special parts are the games of opening and

eating oysters.

Tasting Notes: Small with flat and scallop-like shape and a

fresh and sweet taste different from common oysters. Growing

in cold and deep seawater, their meat is delicious and crispy,

though with a strong metallic taste that is hardly accepted

by general eaters, so they are also called “Little Belons”. The

metallic flavor of Bluffs is more iconic and powerful than that

of Belons and have a strong explosive force.

FOOD TO CHINA 4746 FOOD TO CHINA

纳米比亚蚝是南非蚝的代表,产自纳米比亚鲸湾港,该处是本格

拉寒流上岸的地方,水温较低,加上海洋中丰富的浮游生物和氧气

宝藏,使得当地产的生蚝非常甜美,味道独特。

纳米比亚太平洋蚝的海水味不是太重,但带有其它矿物质的味道。

尽管产量有限,产地偏僻,纳米比亚蚝仍是生蚝爱好者追随的稀有

美味。

风味特征:纳米比亚蚝肉质丰满,味道清新甜美,入口有浓郁的奶香,

咸度适中,口感富有弹性,丰满醇厚,虽然余味较短,但足以令人

印象深刻。

Namibia oysters, as the representative of South Africa oysters, are from

the Walvis Bay of Namibia where the Benguela Current goes ashore.

The cold water of Walvis Bay and the abundant plankton and sufficient

oxygen in the ocean make Namibia oysters taste very fresh and sweet,

forming a special flavor of their own.

Namibia oysters do not have a heavy seawater taste but they carry the

taste of other minerals. In spite of their limited production and far-off

place of origin, Namibia oysters are still the rare delicacy cherished by

oyster lovers.

Namibia 纳米比亚蚝榜单

爱尔兰是欧洲的第二大产蚝国,产蚝重镇高威

还把每年的9月定为生蚝节。这一区所产的生蚝,

像是 Irish Rock、Ostra Regal 都极受蚝客追捧。

为了增加生蚝的味道层次,爱尔兰的蚝农会在

生蚝长到一定日子后,带去法国精养。Dungarvan

湾是爱尔兰国家保护海湾,水域辽阔,生态恬静。

大西洋的洋流影响,汇合潮汐变化,带来源源不

断的丰富食物,这里的爱尔兰生蚝更为健康丰硕,

肥美怡人。除了蚝质丰润,份量十足,从蚝壳上

还可以看得到舒缓水流的勾勒,纹理深浅相依。

Irish Rock 爱尔兰岩蚝

每一只爱尔兰生蚝,都印有纯净海湾的天然风情。

纬度越高,温度越低,会促使生蚝长出更多的肉来抵御寒冷,

所以虽然和著名的法国吉拉多生蚝是同一种源,较高纬度的爱

尔兰生蚝个头却更为丰硕,重量更高,口感更细腻丰美,别有

一番风情。

风味特征:爱尔兰生蚝入口滑嫩,后味微甜,蚝味介于欧洲生

蚝与澳洲生蚝之间,海水的味道非常浓重,连带蚝身的味道也

偏咸,矿物味浓郁,汁液浓稠。

Ireland is the second largest country of oyster production in Europe

and Galway is the key city of oyster production in Ireland. The city

observes Oyster Festival every September. Oysters produced in this

area, like Irish Rock and Ostra Regal, are deeply loved by oyster

eaters.

To enrich layers of flavor, the oyster breeders of Ireland will take the

oysters to France for intensive breeding when they grow to a certain

size.

Dungarvan Bay, the national protection zone of Ireland with vast

waters and peaceful ecological environment, is also a wonderful

Ireland 爱尔兰

New Zealand 新西兰

Namibia 纳米比亚

Tasting Notes: Namibia oysters have plump meat.

Sweet and fresh with a heavy milk aroma; a bit briny

with a flexible texture and a mellow taste. Despite the

short aftertaste, it is still quite impressing.

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FOOD TO CHINA 4948 FOOD TO CHINA

马尔伯勒蚝属于太平洋蚝种,生长在南极圈内,冰冷的水

域使得其肉质非常肥厚。马尔伯勒蚝拥有世界上罕有的黑色

蚝壳,像黑珍珠一样反射着光泽,很容易辨认,其蚝肉有黝

黑的裙边包裹,蚝肉裙越是发黑,说明蚝的雄性激素含量越高。

壳上没有过多的寄生物,是生蚝品种中的贵族。

风味特征:如果将法国生蚝比喻成浓厚的炼奶,那么新西兰的

马尔伯勒生蚝就是一杯甘甜的甘蔗汁,吃多少都不会腻,永

远想再吃下一个。马尔伯勒生蚝味道鲜甜,爽滑清脆,不粘口,

不发涩,回甘清香。

Marlborough oysters belong to the Pacific oysters, living in the

Antarctic Circle. The icy water there endows them with succulent

and plump meat. They have fairly rare black shells shining like

black pearls, making them very easy to be identified. Their meat

has a dark skirt-shaped edge. The darker the edge is, the more male

hormone an oyster contains. Marlboroughs have few parasites on

the shells and they are of the highest class among oyster species.

Tasting Notes: If the French oyster is to be compared to thick

condensed milk, the Marlborough oyster of New Zealand is like a

cup of sweet sugarcane juice. You just love it and never get enough

of it. Marlboroughs taste fresh and sweet, smooth and crispy, not

sticky and puckery, with a pure and fresh aftertaste.

Marlborough 马尔伯勒蚝New Zealand 新西兰

榜单

你一定听过这个古老的说法:以“R”结尾的月份才适合吃生蚝,

但事实上这个说法只适用于欧洲。澳大利亚海域宽广,水质清澈,

四季均有品质稳定的生蚝出产。

生长于旅游圣地塔斯马尼亚的太平洋生蚝(Pacific Oyster)是

澳洲非常出名的一道美食。她的个头较小,纹理规整,表壳相对

平滑。很多人认为生蚝的个头小肉就会很少,其实不然。

塔斯马尼亚生蚝生长于澳大利亚南端的外海,地处南大洋洲抵

达南极洲的最后一站,那里海水清冷,微生物较少,因此蚝壳较簿。

风味特征:肉质肥美爽脆,奶香嫩滑,蚝壳呈白色,味道清淡爽滑,

先咸后甜,后味有水果和黄瓜的气息。肥瘦适中,海水味比较淡。

You must have heard of this ancient saying that only the months whose

names end with an “R” is the right time to eat oysters. But actually this

rule only applies to Europe. Australia has a broad sea area, where water

is clean and clear and oysters are produced consistently in every season

with stable quality.

Tasmania Gigas 塔斯马尼亚蚝Australia 澳大利亚

Produced in Tasmania , a popular tourist

destination, the Pacific oyster is a famous

Australian delicacy. The small oyster has regularly

and smoothly fluted shells. Some people may think

there is little to eat, which is not the truth.

Tasmanias live in the outer sea in South Australia,

which is the last stop to Antarctica from the south

of Oceania, where sea water is cold and few micro-

organisms survive. This makes the oyster shell thin.

Tasting Notes: Plump and crisp, tender with a

creamy taste. White shell. The oyster has a mild,

smooth taste with saltiness followed by sweetness.

The aftertaste is fruity with cucumber aroma.

Medium size with slight seawater taste.

place for oyster breeding. The ocean currents of the Atlantic Ocean and the tidal changes

continuously bring abundant and nutritious food to oysters in this area. Therefore, these

Irish oysters are healthier and larger with plump meat and a pleasant taste. In addition to

their plump and succulent meat, deep and shallow streaks can be seen on the shells, which

are the kisses left by the gentle water flows. Every Irish oyster is printed with the natural

style of this pure bay.

The higher the latitude is, the lower the temperature becomes, oysters in high latitudes

will grow more meat to resist coldness. Therefore, although the famous French Gillardeau

oysters and Irish oysters belong to the same species, the latter living in higher latitudes is

larger, heavier and more delicate. This is the special flavor of their own.

Tasting Notes: Irish oysters taste smooth and tender and have a slightly sweet aftertaste.

Their oyster flavor is between that of European oysters and Australian oysters. Meat holds

lots of thick nectar, briny, with a strong taste of seawater and minerals.

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霞多丽 Chardonnay

提到生蚝配酒,你一定会想到《神之水滴》中主人公曾用 Chablis Premier

Cru 与 Chablis Village 两款酒做比较搭配生蚝,有着截然不同的感受。

据说,古时夏布利地区是海床,泥土里埋着大量蚝壳,为这片土地提供了丰

富的矿物质,因此产自该地区的葡萄酒带上了海洋的风味和矿物味,与生蚝

正相配。

Speak of pairing wine with oysters, you may think of the scene in the movie The

Drops of God (Kami no Shizuku) that the hero had made a comparison between

two wines, Chablis Premier Cru and Chablis Village, when they were paired with

oysters, and got two distinct feelings.

It is said that in ancient times, Chablis area was seabed and a large number of

oyster shells were buried in the soil, which provides this area with abundant

minerals. Therefore, the wine produced in this area has a flavor of ocean and

minerals, which is just well matched with oysters.

香槟 Champagne

香槟与生蚝是无可挑剔的完美组合 ! 初尝有淡淡的果香气息,随之而来的奶

油甜点的气味,口感和谐丰富。

Champagne and oysters are a perfect match! The first taste is slightly fruity, and

then here comes the fragrance of cream and dessert, rich and harmonious.

长相思 Sauvignon Blanc

酒体轻盈,口感细腻,新鲜的小清新的味道,带有丰富的果香,同时很好的

酸度又可以缓解生蚝的腥气,发生化学作用。

Light and delicate with a fresh and fruity aroma; a suitable acidity that eases the

fishy smell of oysters.

单一麦芽威士忌 Single Malt Whisky

平时多用白葡萄酒佐蚝,其实用威士忌来搭配别有洞天。来自苏格兰艾莱岛

上的单一麦芽威士忌烟熏味浓重,与生蚝的海水味完美交织 ; 而与日本白州

25 年搭配,会感受到如置海边森林般的纯净风味。

Oysters are often paired with white wine. Actually, whisky is also a good match.

The single malt whisky from the Islay Island of Scotland has a strong smoked tone,

which is perfectly matched with the seawater taste of oysters. When paired with

Hakushu 25 Years Old of Japan, oysters will bring you a pure and fresh flavor as if

you were in a coastal forest.

ine and oyster PairinGs 生蚝配酒技巧W

TopTaste高端食材

FOOD TO CHINA 5150 FOOD TO CHINA

松露 truFFle

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earChinG For the deliCaCy Planted By God in truFFle season松露季,寻找那上帝种下的美味

秋末冬初,在意大利皮尔蒙特 (Piemonte) 区的阿尔巴 (Alba) 小镇,雨

季过后的湿润泥土下暗香浮动……天还没亮,松露猎人们就带着他们的猎

犬出发了:他们沿着那香气的线索满山搜寻,寻找那被世人称为“上帝种

下的美味”——白松露。

松露是一种极其珍贵的菌类,每年的 11 月到次年 3 月,会在法国和意

大利的少量土地上生长。这种具有独特浓郁香气的植物,价格昂贵堪比黄

金,总是让全球顶级大厨与老饕们翘首以盼,期待着这道令人垂涎的美馔

出现在他们的餐桌上……

“松露”(Truffle)这个词来源于拉丁语的“tuber”,本义是“衍生物”、

“副产品”。欧洲人吃松露的历史由来已久。希腊人和罗马人用松露来治

疗疾病。在中世纪时,松露在法国曾被贬为“巫婆的佐料”,一度从人们

的视野中消失。直到文艺复兴时代,在路易十四的统治下,松露得以复兴,

并越来越盛行。到了 19 世纪中期,欧洲的松露产量曾达到过 2000 吨,

是历史最高水平。

In the late autumn and early winter, subtle fragrance floats in moist soil after the rainy season in the town of Alba, Piemonte region, Italy... Before dawn, truffle hunters would set out with their hounds. Along the trail of fragrance, they search through mountains for what is known as the "delicacy planted by God" -- white truffles.Truffle is an extremely valuable fungus. From November to March, it grows in a few places in France and Italy. The price of this kind of plant with rich, unique aroma is comparable to gold. The world's top chefs and gourmands are always eagerly expecting this coveted dish …The word "truffle" comes from"tuber" in Latin, whose original meaning is "derivative" and "by-product". Europeans have been eating truffle for a long time. The Greeks and Romans used truffles to treat diseases. In the Middle Ages, truffles were relegated to "witch's seasoning" in France, and even disappeared from people's sight once. Until the Renaissance, under the reign of Louis XIV, truffles were revived and gained increasing popularity. In the mid-19th century, the production of truffles in European reached over 2,000 tons, the highest level in history.

意大利白松露常年位列“世上最昂贵食材”的榜首,并非没

有原因的。首先,是它的产量极为稀少。白松露的全球平均年

产量大约只有三吨,不到黑松露产量的十分之一。尤其在一些

不太好的年份,其价格更是贵得让人流泪。在去年 11 月的第 16

届意大利阿尔巴白松露国际拍卖会上,11 块白松露拍品总共拍

出 28.75 万欧元(约合 196 万元人民币)的价格,其中最贵的两

块,都被中国买家收入囊中。

其次,是它独特浓郁的香气。“松露的香气非常特别,并非

人人都喜欢,爱之极爱,恶之极恶,非常极端,”广州丽思卡

尔顿意轩餐厅的意大利主厨安德烈告诉我们,他的母亲就非常

不喜欢松露的气味,而他则刚好相反——当然,世上有哪位大

厨会拒绝这人间稀有的美馔呢?

安德烈来自意大利北部的贝加莫市,离著名的白松露之乡阿

尔巴镇不是很远。他说,每年的秋末冬初,就会开启一年一度

的松露季,这是全球大厨和老饕们都翘首以盼的季节。

白松露生长在地下,与树共生,树的品种可以是橡树、榛树、

白杨和山毛榉等。松露的大小、风味由其生长环境的湿度、气候、

树的种类和年龄、泥土类型等因素决定。松露生长所需的复杂

环境让人工培育白松露的难度直线上升,即使成功培育,价格

同样不菲。

何为松露的好年份?有一种戏谑的说法是:让酿酒师们悲伤

流泪的年份,恰恰是松露猎人们高兴欢呼的年份。因为白松露

的生长有个关键因素,就是松露季之前丰沛的降雨。夏季多雨

而秋季干燥晴朗,正是白松露的最爱。

白松露的生长季只有短短几月,从晚秋至 1 月。10 月和 11

月是白松露市场的最旺季,许多松露拍卖会和年度松露晚宴会

在这段时间内举行,包括11月著名的Fiera del Tartufo(松露展)。

在松露的产地,寻找松露通常叫做“猎松

露”,而采摘松露的人则被称为松露猎人。但

松露猎人必须依靠帮手来寻找松露。

松露猎人传统上是利用母猪来寻找及挖掘

松露,母猪是天生的松露猎人,因为松露的气

味与诱发母猪性冲动的雄甾烯醇类似,因此它

可以在 6 米远的地方就能闻到埋在 25 厘米至

30 厘米深的地下的松露。不过也由于母猪非常

喜欢松露,所以常直接将找到的松露吃下,不

易为采集人所控制。而且猪用鼻子拱开地面时

会破坏松露的菌丝体,导致以后松露的产量下

降,因此 1985 年之后意大利政府禁止使用猪

来发掘松露。

安德烈主厨告诉我们,在意大利,人们通

常会利用经过严格训练的猎犬来寻找白松露,

因为它们比较尽忠职守,不像野猪一样,会忍

受不了香气的诱惑而把刚挖出来的松露一口吞

掉。相比猪,狗的嗅觉也很灵敏,而且更容易

控制。但除了拉戈托罗马阁挪露犬(Lagotto

Romagnolo)外,别的狗都需要经过训练来记

住松露的气味。一条经过训练的猎犬,在市场

上可以卖到3000欧元。在寻找松露的前一夜,

猎人通常不给猎犬吃东西,这样猎犬为了换取

食物作为奖励,会更加努力地去寻找松露。阿

尔巴地区大概有 50 位松露猎人,最资深的松

露猎人有 50 年的经验,猎犬是他们不可或缺

的助手。

白松露以个大完整、表面流畅圆滑者为佳。

每到 11 月,阿尔巴地区会举办顶级的国际白

松露拍卖会,当年采到的大颗白松露将被拍卖。

而身为五星级酒店的行政主厨,安德烈自然也

不想错过这一年一度的黄金时节,期盼着能把

这珍贵食材带到客人的餐桌上。

安德列 广州富力丽思卡尔顿酒店意轩餐厅厨师长

Andrea ZamboniLimoni Chef de Cuisine, The Ritz-Carlton, Guangzhou

Top Taste 高端食材

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FOOD TO CHINA 5554 FOOD TO CHINA

作为珍贵的松露家族中的一员,法国黑松露虽然在身价上

略逊白松露一筹,但仍然是非常罕见的高档食材,与鹅肝、鱼

子酱并称为“法国三宝”,是法国宫廷及皇家盛宴上不可或缺

的顶级美味。

如今,天然松露的产量越来越少,想要尝到最佳品质的法

国黑松露,只有在秋冬季节的法国佩理戈尔才能找到。从土地

冒出来一直到高级饭店的餐桌上,有“佩理戈尔黑钻”之称的

黑松露,从 11 月底一直到来年的 3 月都是它的盛产期,这季

节的法国黑松露比春夏法国黑松露的色泽更加黝黑、体积更小,

气味也更浓郁。浓浓散发的奶菌香,刨片加在热热的食物上,

香气的融合与变化,每每教人惊喜。虽然夏季也有法国黑松露

菌,但是其味道比冬季黑松露菌差一大截,身价也相距十多倍。

夏季松露的纹理多皱褶,颜色深黑带土褐色,切开后显出褐色

的松散纹理,相对爽口。而冬季松露则外表线条流畅圆滑,切

开后的纹理呈黑色,气味浓郁集中。而两季松露之间的“Middle

child”就是逃不过被忽视命运的秋季松露(unicinatum),可

想而知这种过渡食材的口感味道是介乎两季之间中规中矩的角

色。

佩理戈尔每年秋天都会有“松露行程”, 可以从贝理戈这个

城市出发。想要追寻奇妙的松露踪跡的人,都可以到这里去参

加当地的“探索松露之旅”,了解这黑色钻石的生长环境与文

化背景,非常有趣。

The French black truffle,as a member of the precious truffle family,

though, slightly inferior to the white truffle, is still a very rare high-

grade culinary material. As one of the three French treasures (the

other two are the foie gras and caviar), it is an indispensable top

delicacy for French court and royal feasts.

Nowadays, the production of natural truffles is

declining. The best French black truffles can only

be found in Perigord of France during the autumn

and winter. Coming from the earth but served on

the tables of high-end restaurants, black truffles, also

known as “the black diamond of Perigord”, enjoy a

peak production period from the end of November

to next March. During this period, they look darker

and smaller, yet with a more intense aroma than their

spring and summer siblings. With an intense milk

and fungus aroma, black truffle slices often give diners

great surprise when added to hot food as the aroma

integrate with and change the taste of the food.

Although there are also black truffles in the summer,

their flavor is not as good as the winter ones and

their price is also over ten times cheaper. Summer

truffles have more wrinkles and are dark black

with faint adobe brown. Summer truffles, when

cut open, show loose texture and boast a relatively

refreshing flavor. The skin of winter truffles with

flowing curves is smoother. They, when cut open,

show black texture and boast rich and concentrated

aroma. The “Middle Child” between the summer and

winter refers to the autumn truffles (unicinatum),

which are usually neglected. As you can imagine, the

taste of these transitional truffles is just between the

summer and winter ones.

Every autumn, Perigord launches the “truffle trip”

which starts from the city of Prigueux. Those who

want to trace the wonderful truffles can go there to

participate in the local “journey of exploring truffles”

to learn more about the growth environment and

cultural background of the black diamonds, which

shall be of great fun.

Top Taste 高端食材

Italian white truffle always ranks the top of the World's Most Expensive

Ingredients list, which has its reasons. First of all, the production is

extremely low. The average annual production of white truffles is only

about three tons globally, which is less than one-tenth of that of black

truffles. Especially in years when the production is not very good, their

price was astronomical. In November, 2015, during the 16th World

White Truffle of Alba Auction, eleven specimens of white truffles were

auctioned for a total amount of €287,500 (about RMB 1.96 million),

among which the most expensive two were bought by Chinese.

Secondly, white truffles are unique in their rich aroma. "The aroma of

truffles is very special, but not everyone likes it. People that like it love

it very much. People that dislike it hate it very much", said chef Andrea

Zamboni of Limoli at the Ritz-Carlton Guangzhou. Andrea told us that

his mother didn’t like the smell of truffles, but he is just the opposite.

Indeed, what chef in the world can refuse this rare cuisine?

Andrea comes from Bergamo in northern Italy, which is not very far from

the famous white truffle town -- Alba. According to him, truffle season

begins from late autumn and early winter. It is highly anticipated by the

world's chefs and gourmands.

Like other truffles, white truffles grow under the ground and have a

symbiotic relationship with trees. The trees can be oaks, hazels, poplarsor

beeches. The size and flavor of truffles are determined by the humidity

and climate of their growth environment, the type and age of trees,

soil type, and other factors. The complex environment required by the

growth of truffles makes them very difficult to be cultivated artificially.

Even if they are cultivated successfully, the cost must be very expensive.

What can be called the good year for truffle? There is a playful statement:

the sad year for winemakers is precisely the happy year for truffle hunters.

Because there is a key factor for the growth of white truffles: abundant

rainfall before truffle season. Rainy summer and dry and sunny

autumn are the favorites of white truffles.

White truffles grow for only a few months from late autumn to

January. October and November are the best months for white

truffle market. Many truffle auctions and annual truffle banquets

are held during this time, including the famous Fiera del Tartufo

in November.

In the producing areas of truffle, searching for truffle is usually

called "hunting truffles", while those who pick truffles are known

as truffle hunters. But truffle hunters must rely on their helpers.

Truffle hunters traditionally use sows to find and dig truffles.

Sows are born to be truffle hunters because the smell of truffles

is similar to that of androstenol, a kind of pheromone that can

induce the sex impulse of sows. Sows can smell truffles buried

25cm to 30cm deep underground from 6 meters away. But because

sows like truffles very much, they would often eat the truffle

they find, which make it difficult for truffle hunters to control

the collection. Besides, when digging truffles, the pig’s nose will

destroy truffle mycelium, resulting in decreased truffle production.

Therefore,after 1985, the Italian government prohibited the use of

sows to hunt truffles.

Chef Andrea told us that in Italy, people usually use rigorous

trained hunting dogs to find white truffles, because dogs are

more faithful. Unlike wild boars, dogs will not swallow newly

dug truffles and will resist the temptation of their aroma. Dogs'

sense of smell is also very sensitive. And dogs are easier to control

compared with pigs. But besides Lagorto Romanto, other dogs

need to be trained to remember the smell of truffles. A trained

hound can be sold for 3000 Euro in the market. Hunters usually do

not feed hounds the night before searching, so that their hounds

will try harder to find truffles in exchange for food. In Alba, there

are about 50 truffle hunters, the most senior of who has 50 years

of truffle hunting experience.Hounds are their indispensable

assistants.

Good white truffles are those large and intact ones with smooth

surface. In each November, World White Truffle of Alba Auction,

a top event of truffle, will be held in Alba, where the largest white

truffle found in the same year will be auctioned. As the executive

chef of a five-star hotel, Andrea naturally does not want to miss

this year's golden season. He is looking forward to bring this

precious material to the table of guests.

意轩主厨安德烈呈献矜贵白松露的“餐桌上的钻石盛宴”,结合首次在广州大剧院上演的著名音乐剧《罗密欧与朱丽叶》主题,以唯美斑斓的艺术手法,演绎来自意大利阿尔巴白松露的馥郁芳香。Chef Andrea crafted an exquisite "diamond feast" and presents an exclusive menu with precious white truffle. What’s better than savoring the culinary treasure before appreciating the world-class musical.

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关于松露的历史和文学可以追溯到 4000 年前,美索不达米亚的苏美人在一块

泥板上记载了松露,用楔形文字写成,描述一个儿童将一颗松露献给国王。

古罗马美食家阿比西斯(Marcus Gavius Apicious)在写于公元1世纪的《厨艺》

中介绍了一种繁复的松露料理。松露先用水煮熟后加盐,串成一串轻微地火烤。

锅中放入葡萄酒、橄榄油、胡椒、蜂蜜、鱼酱和 1/3 浓缩蒸发的酸葡萄汁一

起煮沸,然后加入一点淀粉让汤汁变浓,做成蘸酱。在松露上刺洞,然后泡

到酱汁里。

The history and literature of truffles can be traced back to 4,000 years ago when

the Sumerians of Mesopotamia recorded truffles on a clay tablet in cuneiform,

describing a child dedicating a truffle to the king. Marcus Gavius Apicious, an

ancient Roman gourmet, introduced a complex truffle dish in Apicius written in

the 1st century AD. To make the dish, first boil truffles in water, then add some salt

and roast them slightly in strings. Take another pot to make sauce by boiling some

wine, olive oil, pepper, honey, fish sauce and 1/3 concentrated sour grape juice, and

then add a little starch to make the sauce thick. Finally, poke holes in the truffles,

and soak them in the sauce.

松露是很霸道的植物。在欧洲,当一棵橡树的根部开始长出松露时,它周围

的植物会逐渐干枯死亡,直径范围一般一两米,有时甚至宽达 20 米。植被枯

死后,土壤外露,犹如烧焦的土地。正因为如此,中世纪的欧洲人以为它是

恶魔的化身,从而冷落了它近千年。直到今天,对于这种烧焦现象的原因,

科学家也没有定论,一种解释是,这是松露与周围草本植物之间“营养竞争”

的结果。

Truffles are domineering plants. In Europe, when truffles begin to grow at the

root of an oak, other plants around it within a diameter range of one to two meters

in general and sometimes even up to 20 meters will gradually wither and die.

After that, the soil is exposed as if the land has been scorched. Because of this, the

medieval Europeans thought truffles were the incarnation of the devil, and ignored

them for nearly a thousand years. Until today, scientists still have no conclusion on

the scorch phenomenon. One explanation is that it is the result of “competition for

nutrients” between truffles and the surrounding herbaceous plants.

全世界已经发现100多种松露,有黑色,白色,紫色,黄色,外形气味都略有不同,

而最受追捧的,则是意大利白松露和法国黑孢松露两种。白松露主要产自意

大利的皮埃蒙特,马奇和托斯卡纳地区,法国的佩里戈尔,普罗旺斯和勃艮

第则是著名的黑松露产地。意大利白松露和法国黑松露生长在 40 厘米到 1 米

的泥土下,因此香气更加得以保存,吸收养分也更加复杂,造成其气味千变

万化,也是它们受到追捧的主要原因。此外,克罗地亚与纳米比亚也盛产松露,

不过价格要便宜得多。

People around the world have found more than 100 kinds of truffles varying in

colors of black, white, purple and yellow, as well as shapes and smells. The most

Top Taste 高端食材

新鲜的松露因每天都有部分的水分丧失而失重,既不

能让它受潮,也不能让它失水。若不能在购买后立即食用

完,则松露的保鲜工作就变得非常重要。

按照松露猎人的说法,最好能在采摘后两天之内吃掉。

当然,世界各地的餐厅不可能每两天就进一次白松露,所

以白松露的保鲜是极其重要的问题。主厨们会小心地把每

一块白松露都用纸包裹,封在箱子里,再储存在冰箱中。

温度控制在 2-4 摄氏度。“在意大利,我们还会把松露放

入鸡蛋盒子里,过一阵子,松露的香气就会渗入鸡蛋里面,

让鸡蛋变得非常美味,”安德烈说。

在安德烈主厨看来,为了突出白松露优雅馥郁的香气,

最好的方法是生吃,并搭配一些最简单平凡的食材,例如

炒鸡蛋、意面或烩饭等,将白松露削成薄片撒在食物上,

能让整道菜的风味瞬间得到升华。

而法国黑松露的皮很硬,不太可口,需要削皮,通常

刨成片、切成丝或者再细切成丁后加入菜肴。

由于新鲜松露保鲜期太短,因此由松露制成的各种产

品能或多或少地保持松露的味道,比如松露油、松露酱等,

都是西餐桌上不可多得的高级调味品。松露油以白松露油

最为出名,能够使食物的味道变得更为浓郁,独特和原生

态,有的还会混合橄榄油,可以适合不同风味选择。

其它的松露产品还包括松露盐、松露巧克力、松露黄

油,甚至松露醋等。

Fresh truffles lose weight every day due to the loss of water.

It is quite difficult to keep fresh truffles away from damp

and, at the same time, maintain their moisture. Therefore, if

not consumed immediately after purchase, preservation

becomes very important.

According to truffle hunters, it is best to eat truffles

within two days after picking them up. However, it is

impossible for restaurants around the world to purchase

white truffles once every two days, so how to preserve

white truffles becomes vital. Chefs will carefully wrap

each white truffle up in paper, seal them up in boxes, and

then store them in refrigerators with the temperature

controlled at two to four degrees Celsius. “In Italy, we also

put truffles in egg boxes. After some time, the aroma of

truffles will permeate into the eggs and the eggs turn very

delicious.” Andrea said.

In the view of Chef Andrea, in order to highlight the

elegant aroma of white truffles, the best way is to eat them

raw with some simple and common ingredients such

as scrambled eggs, pasta or risotto. Sprinkle thin white

truffle slices on a dish, and the flavor can be instantly

sophisticated.

The skin of French black truffles is not tasty for its

hardness. They are often peeled first, and then finely cut

into slices or small dices to be added to dishes.

As the shelf life of fresh truffles is too short, people have

made them into various products to preserve their taste

more or less. For instance, truffle oil and truffle jam are

exceptional seasonings in western restaurants and can

make ordinary dishes extraordinary. Truffle oil extracted

from the white truffle is the most famous, and can make

the food taste more intense, unique and fresher. It may be

mixed with olive oil to suit different flavor choices.

Other truffle products include the truffle salt, truffle

chocolate, truffle butter and even truffle vinegar.

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国际食品侦探

International Food Detectives

推荐:Tnuva 农夫奶酪档案:农夫奶酪是一种呈液体颗粒状的新鲜白奶酪,因其高蛋白与低脂肪、低卡路里,被视

为完美的蛋白质来源。在以色列,农夫奶酪是最日常的食品,其价格上涨曾引发全国抵制及占领特拉维夫市中心的抗议活动。最受欢迎的Tnuva今年被推广至美国市场,一度成为销售热点。

点评:农夫奶酪的用途十分广泛,可以就蜂蜜与果酱做甜点,也可以做成三明治。

Recommendation: Tnuva Cottage Cheese

Description: Cottage cheese is fresh white cheese curd that considered as one perfect protein source

thanks to its high protein, low fat and low calories. In Israel, cottage cheese is considered to be the most common food and a price raise in it caused national boycott and a protest to occupy the city centre of Tel Aviv. The most popular Israeli cottage cheese, Tnuva, has been promoted to US this year and has caused a scene in the market.

Comments: Cottage cheese is very versatile in cooking. It can be mixed with honey and jam as a

dessert or be added into savoury sandwich.

推荐:戈兰高地酒庄 Yarden 起泡酒档案 :以色列戈兰高地是极富盛名的葡萄酒产区,而其中戈兰高地酒庄的这款起泡酒曾一度

击败法国、西班牙等一众知名酒庄,夺得起泡酒全球冠军。完全由霞多丽制作的这款酒气泡绵密,充满柠檬皮、青苹果和鲜花香。

点评:Yarden 的这款酒价格也十分宜人,适合用来庆祝生活中的每一刻。

Recommendation: Yarden Blanc de Blancs

Description: Produced in Golan heights, the world-class wine region in Israel, Yarden Blanc de Blancs

by Golan Heights Winery once won the sparkling wine world champion over all the famous French champagne and Spanish cava. The wine is solely made of chardonnay while has a creamy and crisp taste with hints of lemon zest, green apple and notes of fresh flowers.

Comments: Despite of the taste, the price of Yarden Blanc de Blancs is also quite pleasant, makes it

suitable to celebrate every moments of life.

推荐:Masik 初次收获特级初榨橄榄油档案:Masik 橄榄油由位于以色列中部的 Magal 集体农场生产,不但完全采用冷压技术,且与

葡萄酒一样被调配成六种不同风味,适合搭配不同食物。其中每年首次采摘季收获的橄榄,更被制作成限量版的初次收获橄榄油,且年年都不同,十分珍贵。

点评:今年有橙花香的橄榄油,吃货还不赶紧收一瓶?

Recommendation:Masik First Olive Harvest oil

Description: Masik olive oil is made by Kibbutz Magal located in central Israel. All the olive oil is extra

virgin cold pressed and divided into 6 different notes to match different food, just as wine. Furthermore, after the first harvest of each year, Kibbutz Magal makes its precious limited Masik First Olive Harvest oil, which varied every year.

Comments: There is one limited edition olive oil this year with neroli note, be the first to collect it!

食品侦探:Fay

食品相关行业从业人员,业余厨师全球 500 强

Food Detective: Practitioner in food related industry, home cook world top 500.

【以色列】Israel

favored are Italian white truffles and French black truffles. White truffles are mainly

produced in the Italian regions of Piedmont, Marche and Tuscany, while Perigord,

Provence and Burgundy of France are famous black truffle origins. Growing 40cm to

1m underground, Italian white truffles and French black truffles can well preserve

the aroma and meanwhile absorb more nutrients, contributing to their varied aromas,

which is also the main reason why they are favored by people. In addition, Croatia and

Namibia also produce truffles, but the price is much cheaper.

松露其实是“种”不出来的。它无法进行光合作用制造生长所需的碳水化合物,

只能通过共生树种的根部获得营养,而这些树木也能通过根部吸收松露自土中

吸收到的水分和矿物质。所以一个农夫只能种下“感染”了松露菌孢的橡树、

松树或者栎树,然后耐心地等待,少则 5 年,多则 10 年,才可能有所收获,或

一无所获。松露生长过程中有太多的不可预测因素,因此不太可能进行人工栽培,

这也正是它稀有及价格昂贵的原因。

In fact, truffles cannot be “cultivated”. Truffles cannot carry out photosynthesis

to make carbohydrates necessary for their growth. They can only obtain nutrients

through the roots of the trees having symbiotic relationships with them and these

trees can absorb through roots the water and minerals truffles have absorbed from the

soil. Therefore, farmers can only plant oaks or pines “infected” with truffles spores,

and then wait patiently for five or even ten years until they harvest some truffles or

nothing. There are too many unpredictable factors during the growth of truffles. It is

impossible to artificially cultivate them, which is why they are so rare and expensive.

松露的气味自古就被认为具有催情的作用,雅典人就以松露来供奉爱神维那斯。

希腊医生 Leukada 甚至将松露当做有益于爱情嬉戏的药方。法国 19 世纪美食家

布里雅 . 萨瓦汉认为,黑松露“可以引发一股伴随着最甜美喜悦的强大力量”,

“可以让女人更温柔,男人更和蔼可亲。”其实仅从健康的角度而言,所有的

野生菌类中,以松露的营养价值最高、最全面,含有 18 种氨基酸、小分子蛋白

质以及不饱和脂肪酸、鞘脂类、淄醇以及微量元素等 50 余种生理活性成分。其

中鞘脂类化合物近年来引起很多关注,它具有修复损伤的神经元、治疗糖尿病、

防治老年痴呆、防治中老年心血管硬化的功效,对癌细胞也有一定的抑制作用。

Since ancient times, the aroma of truffles has been considered to have an aphrodisiac

effect. Athenians used to worship Venus, the Goddess of love, with truffles. Greek

doctor Leukada even prescribed truffles as a beneficial medicine for love. Jean

Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, a French gourmet of the 19th century, believed that black

truffles “can ignite the sweetest and strongest power of joy” and “can make women

more gentle and men more amiable”. In fact, from a health point of view, among all

the wild fungi, truffles have the highest nutritional value and the most comprehensive

nutrients with over 50 kinds of physiological active ingredients, including 18 kinds of

amino acids, small molecule proteins, unsaturated fatty acids, sphingolipids, sterols

and trace elements. Among them, sphingolipids have attracted much attention in

recent years as they have the function of repairing injured neurons, treating diabetes,

preventing and treating senile dementia and cardiovascular sclerosis in middle-aged

and elderly people, and inhibiting cancer cells.

Top Taste 高端食材

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国际食品侦探

International Food Detectives Food Detectives 食品侦探

推荐: OSHEE 维他命棒档案: 同 Bakalland 相似的是,OSHEE 品牌走的同样是健康路线,只不过前者是谷物,而它则

是水果,除了维他命棒,还有维他命果汁、水果谷物麦片等,也都是美味与健康的好选择。每条约合 0.5 欧元。

点评:有杏子口味和蔓越莓口味供选择,卖点在于多达 45% 甚至是 50% 的水果含量,保证了

原汁水果口感。原以为咬下去会像威化饼干一样松脆,实际上却是软软糯糯的,不会干但也并

不粘牙,更重要的是水果味儿浓郁,营养富足,当代餐也相当不错。

Recommendation: OSHEE vitamin bar

Description: Like Bakalland, OSHEE is also a healthy brand. It has fruit, vitamin bar, vitamin fruit

juice, fruit cereal, which is also perfect choice for good taste and health. It sells at about 0.5 Euro a bar.

Comments: It has apricot and cranberry flavors. The selling point is that 45% or even 50% of the

content is fruit. You may think that it would be crispy like wafer. But actually it tastes glutinous without sticking to the teeth. What’s more important is that it’s fruity and nutritious, a good meal replacement.

推荐:Bakalland 坚果蜜饯类零食档案:Bakalland 品牌的产品多为谷物早餐,主打健康路线,因此即便是零食也想要美味与健康

兼得,不得不说坚果类和巧克力的搭配确实出彩。波兰便利店 -Zabka 有售,每包约合 1 欧元。

点评:这款零食有五种风味,个人偏爱蔓越莓与白巧克力包杏仁口味。小小一袋打开后一半是

蔓越莓干,一半是杏仁裹巧克力,巧克力衣中融入了蔓越莓酱,所以整体外观呈淡紫色,在颜色搭配上与红紫色的蔓越莓干相得益彰;内里裹挟的杏仁是经过烘烤过的,难得的是巧克力服帖地依附在杏仁表面,杏仁与蔓越莓巧克力的味道完美融合。

Recommendation: Bakalland(nuts and preserved fruit)

Description: Bakalland is mostly about healthy cereal breakfast. Even snacks must satisfy the needs for

both health and taste. It’s a brilliant idea to match nuts with chocolate. It can be found at Polish convenient store - Zabka, which sells at approximately 1 Euro a pack.

Comments: It has five different flavors. I prefer cranberry and almond wrapped with white chocolate.

In a little pack, one half is dried cranberry, and one half is almond wrapped in chocolate. The chocolate coating includes cranberry jam, so it appears the color of light lavender, a good match with the aubergine dried cranberry. The almond within has been toasted, the flavor of which is perfectly blended with cranberry chocolate.

推荐:Mlekovita 豆奶档案:在波兰超市的货架上,牛奶的品牌可谓琳琅满目,然而 Mlekovita 却是极少数能够将牛奶

饮料做知名的牌子之一。此款还有草莓风味和香草风味,波兰各大超市有售,价格每盒约合0.4欧元。

点评:虽说包装看上去像是儿童牛奶,实际却并不只为孩子们所心水。固然不能指望在其中真的

喝到纯果汁,但是毋庸置疑的是它的豆奶成分浓郁,口感不会稀薄也不会充斥着大量香精味儿,对于不爱牛奶腥味的人来说简直是福音。

Recommendation: Mlekovita soy milk

Description: Milk brands are numerous in Polish supermarkets. However, Mlekovita is one of the very

few that stands out. It has strawberry and vanilla flavors, selling at approximately 0.4 Euro a box.

Comments: Although it seems like children milk, it’s not only enjoyed by children. Of course, you cannot

expect pure fruit juice from it, but its rich soymilk content free of essence is a bless for those who don’t care for the fishy smell of milk.

【荷兰】Netherlands食品侦探:宋贝贝

波兰雅盖隆大学艺术史方向在读研究生,书籍和美食是一生挚爱。

Food Detective: Grace SongStudent of MA in the division of art history at Jagiellonian University in Poland, loves reading and good food.

【波兰】Poland

推荐:SPEIGHT'S 姜汁啤酒档案:SPEIGHT'S 在当地有 130 年的啤酒酿造历史,是新西兰很受欢迎的酒水品牌。姜汁啤酒

虽然叫啤酒,其实是一种不含酒精的带鲜姜口味的碳酸饮料。售价约为新西兰元 3.5 新西兰元/ 330ml。

点评:这款饮料的口感很好,没有啤酒的苦味,却有鲜姜的甜味。可以搭配寿司或者烤肉食用。

Recommendation: SPEIGHT'S ginger beer

Description: With 130 years history, SPEIGHT'S is a very popular brand in New Zealand. Although it’s

called beer, it’s actually a non-alcoholic carbonated beverage with ginger flavor. The retail price is about 3.5 NZD per 330 ml.

Comments: Instead of the bitterness of beer, the sweetness of ginger gives it a very good taste. It’s also

a good option to be enjoyed together with sushi or barbecue.

推荐:Whitestone Windsor Blue Cheese 白石蓝纹芝士 档案:新西兰最为出名的本土芝士品牌,有新鲜的软芝士,稍微陈年过的半软芝士,蓝纹芝

士等多种风味,但最为著名的是获奖无数的蓝纹芝士。它由牛奶,食盐,乳酸乳球菌乳酸亚种以及霉菌等制成,可以单独食用,或者用于意大利面酱之中。零售价 7.7 新西兰元 /110 克。

点评:此款芝士有一股浓郁的软化黄油风味,入口细腻顺滑,略微浓重的海盐口味,配上一

杯黑诺皮红葡萄酒,也再好不过了。

Recommendation:Whitestone Windsor Blue Cheese

Description: Although there are many cheese types in New Zealand such as fresh soft cheese, slightly

aged medium-soft cheese, blue cheese, etc., the most famous one is Whitestone Windsor Blue Cheese which has won many awards. Made of milk, salt, lactococcus lactis and mould, it can be enjoyed alone or with spaghetti. The retail price is about 7.7 NZD/100 grams.

Comments: The cheese has a rich soften butter flavor, tasting fine and smooth in the mouth. A cup of

red wine would be a good choice to balance the slightly heavy sea salt taste.

推荐:Cookie Time 经典原味巧克力曲奇饼干档案:被称为“饼干天堂”的曲奇时光,从 1983 年创业之初到现在,从未更换过配方。最经

典的就是经典原味巧克力曲奇饼干,当地的小孩会掰开,比比看谁的巧克力块比较大。有单个大块或者小块的独立包装,零售价为 2.3 新西兰元 /100 克。

点评:有别于国内的各式曲奇饼干。吃之前,把饼干放在微波炉加热 10 秒,再配上冰淇淋或

者热巧克力,简直就是一个完美的下午茶。

Recommendation: Cookie Time

Description: Known as “Biscuit Heaven”, Cookie Time has never changed recipe since establishment in

1983. The most classic is chocolate cookie of original taste. Local kids would tear the cookie open and see whose chocolate is bigger. Cookie Time has big or small independent package with retail price of 2.3 NZD per 100 grams.

Comments: Unlike various other cookies in New Zealand, it’s better to be put into microwave oven for

10 seconds first and enjoyed with ice cream or hot chocolate. What a perfect afternoon tea!

食品侦探:Jenny Qin

3 年尝遍新西兰当地美食。现居旅游重镇皇后镇,从业于旅游行业。

Food Detective: Jenny Qin

Currently living in Queenstown, the famous tourism resort, and engages in the tourism industry.

【新西兰】 New Zealand

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推荐:El Gaitero Sidra 苹果汽酒档案:El Gaitero 是西班牙有 125 年历史的老牌苹果酒,为节庆聚会必不可少的低酒精度气泡

饮料。倒酒方式很富娱乐性,一手高举酒瓶过头顶,一手低放酒杯,涓涓细流引入杯中,可让气泡更均匀进入酒中,好玩好喝。零售价 1.59 欧元。

点评:颜色浅黄,泡沫丰富细腻,口感酸甜爽口,果香清新,冰镇后适合搭配甜品享用。

Recommendation: El Gaitero Sidra cider

Description: El Gaitero is an old brand of Spanish cider with 125 years history. It’s an indispensable

low- alcohol sparkling beverage for holiday gatherings. The way to serve the beverage is very entertaining. It’s held by one hand over the head, and poured slowly into the wine glass held by the other hand to make the bubbles more evenly distributed. It’s both fun and tasty, with retail price of only 1.59 Euros.

Comments: Light yellow color, rich and fine bubbles, sour and sweet taste, fresh fruit aroma, good to be enjoyed with dessert after being iced.

推荐:Valor 70% Chocolate negro 纯黑巧克力档案:1881 年成立的 Valor,已是西班牙巧克力的领先品牌,品类丰富。这款 70% 纯黑巧克力

精选世上 3 种最好的可可豆烘焙而成,可可味均衡优雅。300 克零售价 3.26 欧元。

点评:高纯度的可可脂充盈口腔,香浓滑腻,回味甘甜。

Recommendation: Valor 70% Chocolate negro

Description:Valor, established in 1881, was a leading chocolate brand in Spain. It has rich varieties. The Valor70% Chocolate Negro is made of three best cocoa beans in the world, with retail price of 3.26 Euros per 300 gram.

Comments: Highly purified cocoa butter fills your mouth with rich and smooth aroma and sweetness.

推荐:Pablo Garrigos Ibanez 蜂蜜杏仁糖饼档案: 西班牙杏仁糖(turron)里的奢侈品牌,杏仁中的“奔驰”——原产地中海的

Marcona 杏仁含量高达到 68% 以上,混合 16% 的迷迭香蜂蜜、蛋清等材料以传统工艺制成。200

克零售价 8.90 欧元。

点评:杏仁糖是西班牙圣诞节的传统甜品,也极受游客欢迎。精选的原粒 Marcona 杏仁富含

优质脂肪,香浓柔润细腻,混合一丝迷迭香的甜蜜,甜度适中且口感松脆,是杏仁糖里的极品。

Recommendation: Pablo Garrigos Ibanez Torta Turron de Alicante

Description: A luxury brand of turron (Spanish almond candy), known as the “Mercedes Benz” in

almond. It consists of 68% Marcona almond from Mediterranean, 16% of rosemary honey, and other ingredients like egg white, made with traditional craft.

Comments: Pablo Garrigos Ibanez is a traditional dessert for Spanish Christmas. It’s very popular

among tourists as well. Selected Marcona almond contains high quality fat, tasting fine and smooth. Mixed with the sweetness of rosemary honey which is just to the right extent, and full of crispiness, it’s the best in turron category.

食品侦探:Julia

西班牙家庭主妇,自由翻译,美食的狂热爱好者。

Food Detective: JuliaHousewife in Spain, Freelancer, Food fanatic

【西班牙】Spain

推荐:SAMBAZON 巴西莓果汁档案:今年适逢里约奥运,这款由来自巴西亚马逊丛林的“超级水果”巴西莓制成的果汁成为

非常流行的饮品。巴西莓外表类似于蓝莓,但其抗衰老与改善视力的效果却远胜于蓝莓,尤其对男性有很好的保健效果。这款果汁不但得到USDA有机认证的健康食品,还加入了公平贸易计划。

售价为 8加元 / 瓶。

点评:紫红色的果汁酸甜可口,既可单独饮用,也可搭配其它水果做成混合果汁或奶昔,特别

建议早上饮用,是能量充沛的一天的好开始。

Recommendation: SAMBAZON Acai berry juice

Description: SAMBAZON, made of “super fruit” Acai berry from Amazon forest, becomes very popular

during Rio Olympics. Acai berry looks like blue berry, but with far better anti-aging and vision-improving effects. It’s especially good for males. The fruit juice has been certified by USDA as organic healthy food, and also joined the Fair Trade Plan with sales price at 8 Canadian dollars a bottle.

Comments: The purple sour and sweet fruit juice can be drank alone or enjoyed together with other

fruit or milk shake. It’s especially good to have it in the morning, a good start to begin an energetic day.

推荐:KIRKLAND 芒果心巧克力档案 :这是一款充满创意的零食。来自菲律宾的热带芒果,覆以Kirkland最著名的黑巧克力,

两者的味道美妙融合,对于追求新奇的吃货们而言是令人眼前一亮的选择。售价 8.5 加元 / 包。

点评:外层硬脆而略带苦味的黑巧克力,与里层软糯香甜的芒果可谓“天作之合”,口感充满层次,

很容易让人上瘾。

Recommendation: KIRKLAND mango chocolate

Description: This is a creative snack. Tropical mango from Philippines wrapped with the famous

Kirkland black chocolate presents a perfect combination of two flavors, surprisingly good news for foodies who are looking for novelties. The sales price is 8.5 Canadian dollars per pack.

Comments: It’s a heaven-made match between outer layer of slightly bitter crusty black chocolate and

inner layer of glutinous and sweet mango. Layered tastes make it easy to get addicted to the snack.

推荐:COCONUT CLUSTERS 椰子脆饼档案:以椰子薄片加上南瓜子、奇亚籽和葵瓜子,裹以一层糖浆烘焙而成的一款脆饼,成分

天然无添加,是又一款获得 USDA 有机认证的健康食品。售价 9加元 / 包。

点评:椰子肉被削成薄片,与其它三种果仁混合,经轻度烘焙而成,保留了各自最原始天然

的味道,入口酥脆香甜,让人欲罢不能。而且成分健康有营养,多吃也不会对身体造成负担。

Recommendation: COCONUT CLUSTERS

Description: Coconut slices are mixed with pumpkin seeds, chia seeds and sunflower seeds, and then

wrapped with a layer of syrup before baking. All the ingredients are natural without any additives. It’s USDA certified organic healthy food with sales price at 9 Canadian dollars a pack.

Comments: Coconut meat is cut into slices and then mixed with three kinds of nutlets before being

slightly baked, which preserves natural flavors of all the ingredients. Crisp, sweet, nutritious and healthy, it makes you cannot stop eating without causing too much burden to your stomach.

食品侦探:黄小华

移民加拿大的著名媒体摄影师,热爱美食,近年来尤为关注诉求健康的食品。

Food Detective: Xiaohua HuangFormer media photographer who has immigrated to Canada, in recent years focusing on healthy food.

【加拿大】Canada

国际食品侦探

International Food Detectives Food Detectives 食品侦探

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Exhibitions 会展

FhW China 2016 suCCessFully ConCluded 第五届广州国际特色食品饮料展览会顺利闭幕

由意大利米兰展览公司及其中国公司 - 广州世展

米兰展览有限公司,联合广东省贸促会及广东省进口食

品协会(IFA)主办的“FHW CHINA 2016 第五届广州国

际特色食品饮料展览会”已于 2016 年 9 月 24 日在中国

进出口商品交易会展馆 C 区顺利闭幕。

本展会历时 3 天,共计 1 万平方米展示面积,整个

展会期间共迎来 10000 名专业买家注册和 19500 人次的

观众到场参观采购,同比提升了约 20%。来自意大利、

波兰、泰国、韩国、荷兰、阿根廷、土耳其、德国、澳

大利亚,加拿大及中国等数十个国家的近 200 多食品企

业参加此次展会,带来数千件优质展品,涵盖高端食材、

休闲零食、咖啡与茶、生鲜食品、乳制品、葡萄酒等各

国特色食品及饮料。

FHW CHINA 主办方沿用独一无二的“重点采购商计

划(VIB Program)” 精选业内最具实力的大型超市、

连锁便利店、各星级酒店/酒店管理集团、食品批发市场、

餐厅饭店、食品酒类贸易商、进口商、经销商、零售商

等为采购商提供展前预览、展中对接、展后跟进的服务,

确保为参展商匹配到目标合作伙伴。主办方也顺应电子

商务崛起的市场趋势,继续与各省电商商会 / 协会、跨

境电商协会等业内权威机构深度合作,加大电商采购商

邀请力度,力求为展商推荐接洽更多优质电商采购商。

为期三天的展会中,主题活动多样,包括“澳大利亚新

南威尔士——蛋糕与电饭煲烘培”、“波兰好味道”、“泰国——

泰厨房 • 泰美味”、“意大利——“意”国风情 出乎“意”料、

以及“啡尝创青春——咖啡品鉴及冲调大赛”等享受味蕾跳

动的品鉴品尝活动。

FHW CHINA 2016 (the fifth edition), hosted by Fiera Milano

S.p.A and its China company Worldex Fiera Milano Exhibitions

Co., Ltd, co-sponsored by China Council for the Promotion

of International Trade (CCPIT) Guangdong Committee and

Guangdong Imported Food Association (IFA), drew to a

successful close at Area C, China Import & Export Fair Complex

on September 24, 2016.

With exhibition area of 10,000 square meters, the three-day fair

attracted 10,000 registered professional buyers and 19,500 visitors

according to incomplete statistics, an increase of 20% from the last

edition. About 200 companies from a dozen of countries, including

Italy, Poland, Thailand, South Korea, the Netherlands, Argentina,

Turkey, Germany, Australia, Canada and China, participated in

the fair, bringing along thousands of excellent exhibits which

cover high-end ingredients, leisure snacks, coffee&tea, pastry,

frozen food, fresh food, dairy products and wine etc.

FOOD TO CHINA 6564 FOOD TO CHINA

FHW CHINA 2016 continued the unique VIB Program

(Very Important Buyer). The VIBs consisted of the most

competitive big supermarket chains, chain convenient

sores, star hotels, hotel management groups, food

wholesale markets, restaurants, and food and beverage

traders, importers, distributors and retailers. They

enjoyed pre-fair preview, during-fair business matching

and after-fair following up services. In order that

exhibitors could be matched with target partners, the

fair organizer followed the trend of booming e-commerce

2016 进口食品发展论坛是广东省进口食品协会成

立以来主办的首个大型行业论坛,历时两天,涉及进

口食品行业发展趋势、政策方针、流通及销售渠道等

三大方面,10多个主题,涵盖了进口食品全产业链。

首场分论坛“新环境下的进口食品供应链管理及

营销”,由广东省进口食品协会会长綦宜龙先生对

2016 进口食品发展论坛发表了致辞,广东省食品进

出口集团公司副总经理杜绪先生分享了“打通进口食

品产业上下游——进口食品的供应链整合”主题演讲。

第二场分论坛,邀请了来自国检、海关业务处室、

国际著名溯源认证机构,以及国际知名物流公司的众

多行业大咖嘉宾代表,为现场观众解读了实现进口企

业通关通检“快准狠”的实操演讲。

第三场分论坛,由广东省进口食品协会携手广东

省跨境电商行业协会、广州世展米兰展览有限公司,

以进口食品领域为切入点,请来行业权威专家、业内

大咖,针对税改半年沉淀、跨境电商采购、产品运营

这几个决定企业未来发展的关键词展开了“税改半年

沉淀暨跨境电商生存新出路、新突破”主题论坛。

2016 imPorted Food industry develoPment Forum2016进口食品发展论坛

2016 Imported Food Industry Development Forum was the first big

industrial forum held by Guangdong Imported Food Association

after its establishment. The two-day event focused on three aspects:

development trend, government policy, and circulation channels,

with over 10 topics covering the whole imported food industry

chain.

Mr. Wolfgang Qi, president of Guangdong Imported Food

Association, delivered an opening speech for the first sub-forum

“Imported Food Supply Chain and Marketing in New Environment”.

Then, Mr. Micheal Du, vice general manager of Guangdong

Foodstuff Import & Export (Group) Corporation, gave a talk on

“Unclog Imported Food Industry Upstream and Down Stream –

Imported Food Supply Chain Integration”.

The second sub-forum of 2016 Imported Food Forum invited big

names from National Commodity Inspection, Customs Services,

place of origin certification authority and leading international

logistic companies to share with the audience how to realize “quick

and accurate” custom clearance through case example illustration.

The third sub-forum “Tax Reform Semi-Annual Assessment and

Cross-border New Breakthrough” was co-organized by Guangdong

Imported Food Association, Guangdong Cross-Border E-Commerce

Association, and Worldex Fiera Milano Exhibitions (Guangzhou)

Co., Ltd. Leading experts and big names of the industry were invited

to share their opinions on key subjects like tax reform, cross-border

e-purchase and products operation.

and intensified cooperation with e-commerce

associations to invite big e-commence buyers and

introduced them to the exhibitors.

During the three-day fair, various theme activities,

such as “New South Wales Australia – Cake and

Electric Cooker Baking”, “Poland Flavor”, “Thailand

– Thai Kitchen • Thai Flavor”, “Italy – Italian Food

and Italian Tradition”, “Youth in Coffee – Coffee

Tasting and Coffee Making Contest”, presented a

carnival to the taste bud of the visitors.

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Exhibitions 会展FH

W 2

016

由波兰共和国屠夫和冷盘肉屠夫协会、全国水果

和蔬菜生产商集团协会、波兰肉牛饲养者和生产商协

会和波兰共和国果树栽培者协会组成的跨行业联盟首

次在 FHW CHINA 亮相,共同推广《欧洲味道—传统和

质量》项目,向中国推介其世界知名的波兰产牛奶、

鸡肉、苹果等主要农产品,以求谋得更多的合作与发

展。

以“波兰好味道 - 波兰食文化”为主题的波兰美

食推荐会亦在 FHW CHINA 2016 活动区召开,波兰驻广

州总领事岳安娜女士携手波兰著名美食畅销书作者玛

格莲娜女士和波兰展商代表就波兰美食文化进行了介

绍,并同厨师和到场观众共同分享了新鲜出炉的波兰

苹果蛋糕和波兰果汁,现场气氛十分融洽。

A multi-industry alliance, consisting of Butchers

and Producers of Processed Meat of the Republic of

Poland (SRW RP), National Union of Groups of Fruit

and Vegetable Producers, Polish Association of Beef

Cattle Breeders and Producers, Polish Fruit Growers

Association, made the first appearance at FHW CHINA

to promote the “European Flavor – Tradition and Quality”

program, which were designed to introduce famous

Polish agriculture products like milk, chicken and apple

to China and look for more cooperation opportunities.

意大利对中国的食品与葡萄酒出口继续保持强劲的增

长。2015 年的出口总额比前一年增长了 22%,首次总额超过

了 4 亿欧元。2015 年在对中国出口的所有农产品中,增长最

快的是出口总额为8900万欧元的葡萄酒,其次为巧克力 /可

可,出口总额为 8600 万欧元,然后依次为糕点,蔬菜水果

以及意大利面。

参加本届意大利国家展馆的是 5 家来自意大利南部的企

业,本次参展隶属于意大利对外贸易委员会(ITA)的南部

出口计划,该计划主要目的是帮助意大利南部的中小企业走

向世界,在全球推广该区域的意大利产品。

意大利国家展团除了参展企业区,还安排了将近 90 平米

的功能活动区,用于举办食品研讨会,现场烹饪秀,品鉴会

等,为前来观展的专业买家与媒体朋友提供更多的意式生活

体验。

Italy’s export of food and wine to China maintains rapid growth.

The total export value in 2015 surpassed 0.4 billion Euros, an

increse of 22% from the previous year. Among all the exproted

agricutral products to China in 2015, wine grew the fastest with

export vallue reaching 89 million Euros. The next in the list was

chocalate/coco with export vaue of 86 million Euros, which

was then followed by pastry, vegetable and fruit, and pasta

successively.

FOOD TO CHINA 6766 FOOD TO CHINA

Poland波兰

italy意大利

A Polish food promotion event called “Polish Flavor-Polish

Food Culture” was held at FHW CHINA 2016 activity area.

Consul general of Poland in Guangzhou Ms. Joanna Jachacy,

Polish food book bestseller Ms. Magdalena and Polish exhibitor

representatives gave an introduction to the Polish food culture.

Together with chefs, they also shared Polish apple cake and Polish

fruit juice with the present audience. The ambience was very

pleasant.

FHW CHINA 2016 Italy Pavilion consisted of five companies

from Sourth Italy. It’s part of the South Export Plan by Italy

Trade Association (ITA) which aims at helping Southern SMEs

to expand the world market.

There was an activity area of 90 squre meters that was used

to hold seminars, live cooking shows and tasting events. It’s a

good opportunity for prefessional buyers and media friends to

exprerience Italian life style.

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FOOD TO CHINA 6968 FOOD TO CHINA

The Department of Supervision on Product Quality of the

General Administration of Quality Supervision, Inspection and

Quarantine (AQSIQ) has recently released the Administrative

Measures for the Monitoring of Product Quality and Safety Risks

(Draft for Comment) and the Administrative Measures for the

Supervision and Spot Check of E-commerce Product Quality (Draft

for Comment).a draft of new inspection measures for products

relevant to health and safety sold via e-commerce channels. The

Measures are designed to strengthen e-commerce supervision to

ensure high-quality products are being sold.

According to the Drafts, departments organizing e-commerce

spot checks shall develop a spot check program according to the

spot check plan, and assign the e-commerce spot check tasks to

designated departments or entrusted inspection agencies.

The program shall include the sampling method, the scope of

products subject to the spot check, the inspection items, and a list

or scope of e-commerce platform enterprises covered by the spot

check.

Policy 政策解读

On September 14th 2016, an Announcement was made by the China

National Center for Food Safety Risk Assessment (CFSA), releasing

the preapproval of ten new food additives. One of new additives to

be approved is Ammonium Carbonate, a leavening agent used in

the biscuits food category, while the remaining nine are all flavoring

additives. The Announcement has been opened for public comments

until October 9th, 2016. Below is a list of the nine food additives:

1. 6- Methylheptanal

2. N-(2-Isopropyl-5-Methyl cyclohexyl) Cyclopropyl formamide

3. 4-hydroxy-4-methyl-5-hexanoic acid γ-lactone

4. Furfuryl 2- methyl-3- furyl disulfides

5. 4- caproleic acid

6. 2-(4-methyl-5-thiazolyl) ethanol propionic ester

7. 4,5- octanedione

8. Ethyl 5-hydroxydecanoate

9. Dioctyl adipate

Upon approval, these additives are allowed to be used in any variety of

food, other than those specifically listed in Table B.1 of the GB 2760-2014

National Food Safety/Standard for Uses of Food Additives. Additionally,

the application scope of Glucono-Delta-Lactone has been extended,

allowing the additive to be used in single cream.

As of October 1st 2016, both domestic and foreign infant formula

milk powder (hereinafter, “IF”) producers, which export IF to China,

are required to register their IF recipes at the China Food and Drug

Administration (hereinafter referred as to “CFDA”). The production of

IF has been under strict scrutiny in China, since the Sanlu milk scandal

of 2008. On Sep. 30, 2016, CFDA officially confirmed the duration of the

grace period for completing the formula registration of both domestically

manufactured and imported IF, which will end on Jan. 1, 2018.

CFDA finalized the Administrative Measures for Registration of Infant

and Young Children Milk Powder Formula Recipes in June and announced

its formal implementation from Oct. 1st, 2016 with the simultaneous

implementation of the grace period. IF products in China, whether

produced domestically or imported, before Jan. 1, 2018 may be sold until

the product’s expiration date.

Multiple new regulations have been implemented under the new

registration format. Each IF producer may only register 3 recipe series

(stage 1: 0-6 months, stage 2: 6-12 months and stage 3: 12-36 months)

and up to 9 recipes. The new rule also requires the Certification

and Accreditation Administration of the People’s Republic of China

registration of foreign IF, relicensing of domestic IF manufacturers and

the promotion of M&As of IF enterprises. The new rule allows the ability

The General Administration of Customs recently issued the

Announcement on Issues concerning Access to the Unified Information

System for Cross-border E-commerce Import by Enterprises

(hereinafter referred to as the “Announcement”) and will come into

effect simultaneously with the promulgation date.

The Announcement specifically applies to E-commerce enterprises

and third parties taking part in cross-border E-commerce business

transactions, allowing these companies “to enter into, modify, declare

and inquire” information manually through the Subsystem for Customs

ten neW Food additives to Be aPProved in China

inFant Formula ProduCtion set to see major ChanGes

aCCess extended to the uniFied system For Cross-Border e-CommerCe imPort

enhanCed e-CommerCe ProduCt Quality insPeCtion measures For Food and health ProduCts

to register those recipes under the same group name for

wholly-owned subsidiaries, that have been previously

approved for IF production.

Through the reform, IF product labeling will be held

to a higher standard, including precise percentages,

specific organization of ingredients and clear wording.

Additionally, relevant registration numbers should be

indicated on labels and usage instructions.

The registration is a lengthy process, between application

review and testing, the product approval timeframe may

be over 100 working days. Even more notably, there are

currently around 2,000 IF recipe series sold in China

and in theory, only around 510 recipes series will be

allowed. This means a major reduction of recipes in the

marketplace is expected, not to mention companies

producing multiple recipes which will be greatly affected.

Given the tight deadline and the extent of regulations,

swift preparations are highly recommended.

Clearance under the Unified Information System for Cross-

border E-commerce Import. Both E-commerce enterprises

and third party platforms are required to develop the

access service on their own or to purchase access service

independently. The application also places a judicial burden

on these vendors through legal liability of the electronic data

processed through Customs.

Additionally, the Announcement temporarily allows

digital signatures to be applied specifically to data filing for

inventory, revision, cancellation or sales records in regards to

the application form and the warehouse-in record.

The abovementioned departments shall timely inform

enterprises concerned of the inspection results and the

statutory rights of such enterprises under the spot check in

writing, notify e-commerce platforms of the same in written

form, and propose suggestions on the disposal of sub-quality

products. If an enterprise under the spot check has any

objection after the inspection results, it may file a written

petition for re-inspection within 15 days upon receipt of the

inspection results.

For further details or enquiries please contact [email protected] or visit www.ca-advisors.net

Nataly Ada RiveraC&A Advisors - Marketing and Publishing Department

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70 FOOD TO CHINA

Exhibitions 会展

9 月 12 日,首次由中国—东盟博览会秘书处、广东

省进口食品协会在南宁共同举办的中国—东盟博览会

东盟食品采购对接会取得圆满成功!

The first China-ASEAN Expo Food Sourcing Match-Making Meeting, held jointly by China-ASEAN Secretariat and Guangdong Imported Food Association (IFA), was successfully concluded in Nanning on September 12.

本次采购对接会成效显著。作为第 13 届中国—东盟博览会的重

点专业配对会之一,吸引了不少中外食品的专业卖家和买家到会洽

谈。包括中粮海优(北京)有限公司(中粮我买网)、广东省粤食

进口商品有限公司、广东广新贸易发展有限公司等 50 多家广东省

进口食品行业龙头企业参加了此次东盟食品采购对接会,与来自印

尼、老挝、马来西亚、菲律宾等东盟国家的展商进行了一对一的采

购对接。在本次对接会上,每家采购企业平均对接参展商2—3家,

较为集中的产品类别为以大米为主的农产品,以榴莲为代表的特色

水果及相关制品,以及茶叶及咖啡豆等东盟国家特色产品。本次采

购对接会采购企业需求较为明确,贸易配对措施细致,成效非常明

显,参会的中外企业纷纷表示十分满意。据不完全统计,本次对接

会意向成交金额超过 300 万美元。

除了中国和东盟的食品相关企业,本次活动还吸引了相关上下

游产业链的厂家参加,深圳市怡亚通供应链股份有限公司的代表说,

食品产业有特殊性,对物流、供应链要求很高。该公司能提供从前

端采购到后端渠道分销的一体化服务,有许多展商前来咨询洽谈。

您是否已经心动?是否后悔错过了这一次的中国—东盟食品大

PARTY ?别担心!每年的 9 月,这一 PATRY 都会如约举办。如果不

想错过,明年的 9月,南宁见!

China-asean exPo Food sourCinG matCh-maKinG meetinG suCCessFully ConCluded have you any Gains? 中国—东盟博览会东盟食品采购对接会完美收官您,有收获了么?

The match-making meeting has been very productive. As

one of the key business-matching events of the 13th China-

ASEAN Expo, it attracted many professional sellers and

buyers from home and abroad, including COFCO Beijing

(Womai.com), Guangdong Yueshi Imported Commodity

Ltd, Guangdong Guangxin Trade Development Ltd, and

other over 50 leading food enterprises in Guangdong

province. They had one to one match-making meeting with

exhibitors from ASEAN countries like Indonesia, Laos,

Malaysia, and Philippines. Each purchasing company was

matched with 2 to 3 exhibitors. The main exhibits were

agricultural products (mostly rice), native fruits (starring

durian), and other ASEAN featured products such as tea

and coffee beans. As the purchasing demands were clear,

and match-making service was meticulous, the event proved

highly effective. Both Chinese and foreign participating

companies were very satisfied. According to incomplete

statistics, 3 million dollars of deal was expected to be closed

due to the event.

Excerpt for food companies, the meeting also attracted

enterprises from upstream and downstream industries.

Representative from Shenzhen Eternal Asia Supply Chain

Ltd said that as food industry has high requirement for

logistics and supply chains, many exhibitors were attracted

by their front-end procurement to rear-end distribution one-

stop service and came along for further discussion.

Are you tempted yet? Do you regret missing this big China-

ASEAN food party? No worries! The party will come around

every September. Come meet us in Nanning next year.

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