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CONTENT /PW7PM

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CONTENT

LIFESTYLE

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WEALTH AND HEALTH

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5FYU

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NATURE IS HEALTH NICHE IS PRIORITY

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GETTING SERIOUS WITH COMPLICATIONS

W h e n y o u h e a r s o m e o n e s a y c o m p l i c a t i o n s , i t s r a r e l y a g o o d t h i n g . B u t i n w a t c h p a r l a n c e, a c o m p l i c a t i o n i s a n i n t e r e s t i n g a s p e c t o f a t i m e p i e c e t h a t m a k e s i t m o r e u s e f u l , c o o l e r and de!nitely more valuable.

B y d e f i n i t i o n , a c o m p l i c a t i o n i s a n y t h i n g m o r e t h a n t h e t i m e ( h o u r s , m i n u t e s a n d s e c o n d s ) , s o , f o r e x a m p l e , a t i t s s i m p l e s t , a d a t e d i s p l a y o r a s m a l l s e c o n d s u b d i a l i s c o n s i d e r e d a c o m p l i c a t i o n . A n y c o m p l i c a t i o n m a k e s a w a t c h m o r e

d i f f i c u l t t o m a n u f a c t u r e , b e c a u s e t h e y a l l h a v e t o d r a w s t o r e d p o w e r f r o m t h e m o v e m e n t a n d w o r k f l a w l e s s l y w h i l e t h e w a t c h c o n t i n u e s t o d o i t s m a i n j o b , t e l l the time precisely.

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What are the top complications out there today?ChronographT h i s i s a w a t c h t h a t a l l o w s f o r t h e i n d e p e n d e n t t i m i n g o f a n e v e n t . U s u a l l y , a c h r o n o g r a p h h a s t w o p u s h e r s o n t h e s i d e o f t h e c a s e t o a c t i v a t e , s t o p a n d r e t u r n t h e c h r o n o g r a p h h a n d s . M o s t c h r o n o g r a p h s h a v e s u b d i a l s t h a t measure the minutes and hours.

Perpetual CalendarT h e u l t i m a t e c a l e n d a r b e c a u s e i t k n o w s h o w l o n g e a c h y e a r i s , n o m a t t e r i f i t i s a l e a p y e a r . K e e p a p e r p e t u a l c a l e n d a r r u n n i n g a n d yo u wo nt h ave t o re s e t i t u n t i l t h e ye a r 2100 or later.

Jumping HourInstead of regular hands, a single digit shows the hour and i t jumps direc t ly to the nex t hour, f rom three to four, for example.

Moon PhaseT h e s e w a t c h e s h a v e a r o t a t i n g d i s k that shows the phase of the moon (full, half, crescent, etc.).

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LIFESTYLE

Dual Time/GMTT h i s t i m e p i e c e d i s p l a y s two times simultaneously, e i t h e r t h r o u g h a G M T h a n d t h a t p o i n t s t o t h e s e c o n d t i m e z o n e o r a s e p a r a t e s u b d i a l fo r t h e second time zone.

TourbillonT h e t o u r b i l l o n i s a d e v i c e t h a t i s d e s i g n e d t o c o u n t e r a c t t h e e f f e c t o f g r a v i t y o n t h e m o v e m e n t s b a l a n c e , t h e r e b y i n c r e a s i n g t h e movement s accurac y. A tourbi l lon features a small cage that holds the balance and the escapement, and the cage turns independently o f t h e w a t c h , u s u a l l y a t a c o n s t a n t r a t e o f o n c e p e r m i n u t e . T h e t o u r b i l l o n , w h i c h m e a n s w h i r l w i n d i n F r e n c h , i s o n e o f t h e watchmaking arts most involved and elegant complications.

Minute RepeaterThis is a watch that chimes out the time (hours and minutes) when a lever is activated. The Minute Repeater is considered one of the most complicated watches to manufacture.

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LIFESTYLE

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LIFESTYLE

Saving H. Moser & CieH. Moser has a long history of making fine, high-end timepieces with classic styling. Recently, the company fell on hard times and was in danger of closing its doors.

Then, in stepped the MELB Group, run by watch industr y veteran Georges-Henr i Meylan, to purchase a major i t y of the shares of H. Moser. The team from MELB came in and examined everything, from purchasing to production and shipping, and began to overhaul the operations, working to make the brand pro!table.

One big advantage for H. Moser is i ts abi l i ty to make spr ings and complete escapements, something that only a handful of companies h a v e . M E L B ' s p l a n i s t o m a x i m i z e t h i s , s u p p l y i n g c o m p a n i e s throughout the watch industry, including making special hairsprings to the demands of customers.

The biggest change that has to be made is in perception, according to n e w H . M o s e r C E O Ed u o a rd M e y l a n . Fo r t h e l a s t fe w ye a r s , n o one ever quest ioned the qual i ty of H. Moser t imepieces, but they were seen as overly traditional and classical watches. Meylan is out to change this perception with tweaks to the exist ing col lec t ions; t h e M a y u , M o n a r d a n d P e r p e t u a l 1 , a n d a n o v e r h a u l o f t h e communication with the industry and end consumers.

The future of H. Moser, with MELB involved as financial, operational and market support, is very bright, indeed.

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201311.indd 51 13-11-25 9:04

Five Minutes with Christophe ClaretT h e h i l l s s u r r o u n d i n g L e L o c l e , Switzer land, in the hear t of the Jura Mountains, have been home to some of the most famous watchmakers the world has ever seen. One of the most prol i f ic and successfu l has to be the C h r i s t o p h e C l a r e t w o r k s h o p s . I t i s h e re, i n t h i s s t ate o f t h e a r t f a c i l i t y, t h a t s o m e o f w a t c h m a k i n g s m o s t beautiful and complicated movements have been created all from the mind of Christophe Claret.

I c a u g h t u p w i t h M r . C l a r e t i n h i s o f f i c e , w h i c h i s i n a b e a u t i f u l , c e n t u r i e s - o l d v i l l a o v e r l o o k i n g L e Locle. The house is connec ted to the s t ate - o f - t h e - a r t m a n u f a c t u re, w h e re the magic happens.

A r e y o u i m p r e s s e d b y C h i n e s e customers?The Chinese clientele is often younger t h a n c l i e n t s f r o m o t h e r c o u n t r i e s , and they are really interested in every novel aspec t in t imepieces. I n a ver y s h o r t a m o u n t o f t i m e , t h e y h a v e learned and understand the value of a highly complicated watch.

W h y i s e x p a n d i n g y o u r f a c i l i t y a n d m a k i n g s u r e i t i s a s a d v a n c e d a s possible important to you?For 25 years, I have realized, designed a n d m a d e h i g h l y - c o m p l i c a t e d m o v e m e n t s f o r a p p r o x i m a t e l y 2 0 f a m o u s S w i s s w a t c h b r a n d s .

I p r o m i s e d m y s e l f t h a t t h e d a y I launched my own brand, I would make sure that I have complete control over the whole production process.

What do you like about watches?For me, a watch should not only give t ime, i t has to be playful, interactive, i n n o v a t i v e a n d h a v e a r e a l u s e o t h e r t h a n i n d i c a t i n g t i m e . I t m u s t a lways have a technical and esthet ic consistency.

Where do your ideas come from?M y i d e a s s t e m f r o m e v e r y t h i n g e x c e p t f r o m w a t c h m a k i n g . W h e n I say ever ything, I mean the universe, a e r o s p a c e e n g i n e e r i n g , a l l k i n d s o f m a c h i n e s , u n u s u a l o b j e c t s fo u n d i n "ea markets, nature and more.

W h a t i s y o u r f a v o r i t e c i t y i n C h i n a and why?M a c a u , b e c a u s e I r e a l l y l i k e t h e contrast between the old Por tuguese par t, with the extremely modern par t of the c ity that has been bui lt and is still being developed.

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A Bridge Between Tradition and Modernity Corum Has the KeyF o u n d e d i n 1 9 5 5 i n L a C h a u x -d e - F o n d s , w h e r e t h e b r a n d s t i l l h a s i t s h e a d q u a r t e r s , C o r u m h a s e s t a b l i s h e d i t s e l f a s a b r a n d t h a t br idges the gap bet ween t radi t ional Sw i s s w a t c h m a k i n g a n d t h e m o d e r n watch world. Known for its innovative s p i r i t s i n c e i t s fo u n d i n g, Co r u m h a s i nt ro d u ce d s o m e i n c re d i b l e watc h e s o v e r i t s h i s t o r y, i n c l u d i n g t h e C o i n watch, the Admiral s Cup, the Golden Tube (which is the inspiration for the m o d e r n G o l d e n B r i d g e ) , t h e B u b b l e and much more.

T o d a y , C o r u m c o n t i n u e s t h a t innovative spir it with new versions of the Admirals Cup, the aforementioned G o l d e n B r i d g e , t h e T i B r i d g e a n d many h igh watchmak ing t imepieces, i n c l u d i n g t o u r b i l l o n s , G MTs , m i n u t e repeaters and much more.

J u s t b e f o r e B a s e l W o r l d t h i s y e a r , C o r u m w a s a c q u i r e d b y C h i n a H a i d a n , a C h i n e s e c o m p a n y r u n b y H o n K w o k L u n g . I a m v e r y p l e a s e d w i t h t h i s a c q u i s i t i o n a n d I f i r m l y believe in the potential development of Corum, he said. The brand has done a remarkable job under the leadership o f A n t o n i o C a l c e a n d w a s a b l e t o re pos i t io n i ts e l f a s on e of th e maj or p l a y e r s i n H a u t e H o r o l o g e r i e . I w i l l enjoy working with Mr. Calce, whom I trust to ensure effective management of the company.

I n d e e d , C o r u m h a s r e t a k e n i t s r ightful place in the upper echelon of watch companies, capable of mak ing t h e m o s t c o m p l i c a t e d w a t c h e s w i t h stunning designs.

O n e e x a m p l e o f t h i s i s t h e G o l d e n B r i d g e , a c o m b i n a t i o n o f h i g h w a t c h m a k i n g a n d m y s t e r y , a s t h e i n t r i c a t e m o v e m e n t i s o n c o m p l e t e display through the sapphire crystal.

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Only Watch Auction Raises Record AmountTo d a y, i t s r a r e w h e n a n y c o m p a n y does something sel f less and only for the benefit of someone else. I t s even rarer when a group of 30+ companies do it at the same time.

Wel l , the Only Watch Auc tion held in M o n a c o i n S e p t e m b e r i s t h e r a r e s t o f t h e r a r e 2 0 1 3 m a r k s t h e f i f t h incarnation of this spectacular charity event , where watch companies make u n i q u e p i e c e s s p e c i f i c a l l y f o r O n l y Wa t c h a n d A L L t h e p r o c e e d s g o t o the M onegasque Associat ion against M u s c u l a r D y s t ro p hy, s p e c i f i c a l l y fo r research.

O n l y W a t c h r a i s e d m o r e t h a n $ 6 . 8 m i l l i o n t h i s y e a r . T h e w a t c h t h a t fetched the highest price was a one-of-a-k ind t itanium Patek Phil ippe, which sold for $3,985,067!

Only Watch star ted in 2005 with the i d e a I h a d o f c re at i n g a p ro j e c t t h at would enable the Monaco Association against M uscular D ystrophies (AMM) to raise money to continue stimulating r e s e a r c h o n D u c h e n n e M u s c u l a r Dystrophy l ike we had already started d o i n g w i t h o t h e r c h a r i t y a u c t i o n s t h r o u g h a m e a n i n g f u l p r o j e c t o f c r e a t i v i t y t h a t w o u l d t r u l y i n t e r e s t a c e r t a i n c a t e g o r y o f c o l l e c t o r s a n d a d m i r e r s o f b e a u t i f u l o b j e c t s , s a y s L u c P e t t a v i n o , p r e s i d e n t , A M M . I a p p r o a c h e d t h e f i n e s t S w i s s w a t c h m a k e r s t o h a v e t h e m j o i n t h e project and they recognized the high p r o f i l e o f t h e e v e n t a n d i t s h o n e s t c h a r i t a b l e a i m a n d s p i r i t . T h e n e x t Only Watch will be held in 2016.

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WATCH OF THE ISSUE

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T here was a t ime when America w a s t h e w o r l d l e a d e r i n watches. I n the late 1800s and t h e f i r s t h a l f o f t h e 2 0 t h c e n t u r y , A m e r i c a n c o m p a n i e s l i k e H a m i l t o n , Ba l l , E lgin and others revolut ionized watch production. Until the Americans came on the scene, watches were too e x p e n s i v e f o r t h e o r d i n a r y p e r s o n . A m e r i c a n s i n d u s t r i a l i z e d w a t c h produc t ion and pioneered the entr y-l e v e l w a t c h . H a m i l t o n a n d o t h e r companies famously had watches that sold for one dollar, making t imepiece ownership possible for everyone.

As the watch industr y global ized and the Swiss reasserted their dominance, watch produc t ion in Amer ica largely moved o#-shore.

Today, Shinola, a brand new company b a s e d i n D e t r o i t , M I , a i m s t o b r i n g industr ial ized watch production back to the US. Formed with Tom Kartsosis, fo r m e r l y o f Fo s s i l f a m e, S h i n o l a i s a p a r t n e r s h i p w i t h S w i s s m o v e m e n t manufacture Ronda Ronda supplies the movementsparts and Shinola does t h e co m p l e te a s s e m b l y i n t h e M o to r C i t y. G r e a t l o o k i n g a n d w e l l - p r i c e d , S h i n o l a w a t c h e s a r e r e a l l y c a t c h i n g on. The company also makes bic ycles and leather goods.

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A c t r e s s G o n g L i i s a l e g e n d , h a v i n g m a d e h e r m a r k a t t h e C a n n e s F i l m Fe s t i v a l w i t h J u Dou in 1990 and today being one of t h e m o s t e s t e e m e d a c t r e s s e s o f h e r generat ion. With her ethereal beauty and superb talent, Gong Li is an icon for Chinese and world cinema.

I c a u g h t u p w i t h h e r t o t a l k a b o u t watches, time and Piaget, the company with whom she is now working.

Ti m e l e ave s i t s m a r k o n e ve r y b o d y, a n d c h a n g e s u s i n s u b t l e w a y s , s h e s a y s p h i l o s o p h i c a l l y , w h e n a s k e d how she is di f ferent f rom the ac tress who went to France for the f i rst t ime m o re t h a n 3 0 ye a r s a g o. E ve n a f t e r a l l t h e s e y e a r s , o n e p a r t o f m e h a s r e m a i n e d t h e s a m e : m y p e r s i s t e n c e and my belief in embracing challenges a n d a c h i e v i n g b r e a k t h r o u g h s . O n l y t h r o u g h t h e c o n t i n u e d p u r s u i t o f progress and per fection we can renew ourselves and achieve better results . As Piaget s motto Always do better

t h a n n e c e s s a r y - s a y s , y o u n e e d p e r s i s t e n c e a n d c o u r a g e t o m a k e b r e a k t h r o u g h s i n b o t h a c t i n g a n d everyday life.

I t w a s i n C a n n e s t h a t G o n g L i f i r s t e n c o u n t e r e d P i a g e t a n d i t w a s l o v e at f i rst s ight . I saw an exquis i te and b e a u t i f u l j e w e l r y w a t c h b y P i a g e t , she remembers. At f i rst , I thought i t was just another ful l paved diamond bracelet, but then I found a mysterious b u t t o n o n i t . To m y h a p p y s u r p r i s e , the bracelet turned out to be a watch! That jewel ler y watch was so e legant and easy to wear, and i ts design was so unique that I fe l l instant ly in love with jewellery watches.As for her success, Gong Li credits her dedication. This is the most essential factor to my success, she says. Ever y t ime I take on a role, I pour so much o f m y s e l f i n t o t h e c h a r a c t e r t h a t I even forget the time. Before shooting, I a l w a y s v i s i t l o c a t i o n s r e l a t e d t o the f i lm to experience the real l i fe of my c h a r a c t e r, i n o rd e r t o a c c u r a t e l y

Shinola Runwell

Gong Li

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i n t e r p r e t h e r, a n d l i t e r a l l y b e c o m e h e r. I a l w ay s a i m t o d o my b e s t a n d a c h i e v e t h e b e s t r e s u l t s n o m a t t e r what I do.

G o n g L i we a r s d i f fe re n t w a t c h e s fo r the characters in her movies. A watch reflects the personality of its wearer, she explains. For instance, in M iami V i c e I p l a y e d a v i l l a i n g i r l f r i e n d o f a d r u g d e a l e r. M y c h a r a c t e r w a s intel l igent and dar ing, charming and beauti ful . Piaget s stunning diamond p a v M a g i c H o u r w a t c h p e r f e c t l y i l l u s t r a t e d t h e s e c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s . Ad d i t i o n a l l y, i n W h a t Wo m e n Wa n t , I p l a y e d a w o r k p l a c e g o d d e s s . Piaget s Twice watch highl ighted this character s confident personal ity and ever-changing sense of style.

G o n g L i i s a v e r y b u s y w o m a n , a n d w e a r i n g a g r e a t w a t c h h e l p s h e r t o value the t ime she has. I cher ish the t i m e , e s p e c i a l l y t h e q u a l i t y o f m y t i m e, s h e s a y s . I n s t e a d o f t h i n k i n g about what I can do within a cer ta in p e r i o d o f t i m e , I f o c u s m o r e o n t h e q u a l i t y o f my a c t i v i t i e s - - r e a d i n g a g o o d b o o k , e n j o y i n g a g o o d m o v i e , making my time meaningful.

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Louis Vuitton Cartier

Chanel Bvlgari

Herms VanCleef&Arpels

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