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The Secret Life of Soap

Kevin M. Dunn

Spring 2011

$Revision: 1.2 $

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Soap Research at Hampen-Sydney College

Copyright 2011 Kevin M. Dunn

Soap Research

Soda Ash and Other White Blemishes

Background Chemistry

Sulfated Castor Oil

Jojoba Oil and its Substitutes

The Secret Life of Soap

2

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Acknowledgements

Acknowledgements

Mike Lawson/Columbus Foods

Hampden-Sydney College

Cole Hawthorne (soda ash/partial gel)

Arne Ulbrich (sulfated castor oil)

Avery Moncure (microscopy)

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All Things White

All Things White

Not every white blemish is soda ash.

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All Things White

NotSoda Ash

High-Water Olive Oil Soap

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All Things White

NotSoda Ash

Partial Gel Olive Oil Soap

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All Things White

NotSoda Ash

Medium-Water Palm Oil Soap Soap

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All Things White

Soda Ash

Medium-Water Palm Oil Soap Soap

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All Things White

Soda Ash

Medium-Water Duckbars Delight

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All Things White

All Things White

Not every white blemish is soda ash.

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All Things White

All Things White

Not every white blemish is soda ash.

Soda Ash forms only at the surface

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All Things White

All Things White

Not every white blemish is soda ash.

Soda Ash forms only at the surface

Soda Ash forms a layer, like icing on a cake

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All Things White

All Things White

Not every white blemish is soda ash.

Soda Ash forms only at the surface

Soda Ash forms a layer, like icing on a cake Soda Ash washes off with water

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All Things White

All Things White

Not every white blemish is soda ash.

Soda Ash forms only at the surface

Soda Ash forms a layer, like icing on a cake Soda Ash washes off with water

Soda Ash is not very soluble in alcohol

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Soda Ash

Soda Ash

Soda ash is the common name for sodium carbonate, Na2CO3.

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Soda Ash

Soda Ash

Soda ash is the common name for sodium carbonate, Na2CO3.

2 NaOH + CO2= Na2CO3+ H2O

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Soda Ash

Soda Ash

Soda ash is the common name for sodium carbonate, Na2CO3.

2 NaOH + CO2= Na2CO3+ H2O

Na2CO3+ CO2+ H2O = 2 NaHCO3

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Soda Ash

Soda Ash

Soda ash is the common name for sodium carbonate, Na2CO3.

2 NaOH + CO2= Na2CO3+ H2O

Na2CO3+ CO2+ H2O = 2 NaHCO3

Appears wherever lye meets air:

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Soda Ash

Soda Ash

Soda ash is the common name for sodium carbonate, Na2CO3.

2 NaOH + CO2= Na2CO3+ H2O

Na2CO

3+ CO

2+ H

2O = 2 NaHCO

3

Appears wherever lye meets air:

lye spills left to dry

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Soda Ash

Soda Ash

Soda ash is the common name for sodium carbonate, Na2CO3.

2 NaOH + CO2= Na2CO3+ H2O

Na2CO

3+ CO

2+ H

2O = 2 NaHCO

3

Appears wherever lye meets air:

lye spills left to dry

soap made with excess lye

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Soda Ash

Soda Ash

Soda ash is the common name for sodium carbonate, Na2CO3.

2 NaOH + CO2= Na2CO3+ H2O

Na2CO

3+ CO

2+ H

2O = 2 NaHCO

3

Appears wherever lye meets air:

lye spills left to dry

soap made with excess lye

raw soap left uncovered

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Soda Ash

Soda Ash

Soda ash is the common name for sodium carbonate, Na2CO3.

2 NaOH + CO2= Na2CO3+ H2O

Na2CO

3+ CO

2+ H

2O = 2 NaHCO

3

Appears wherever lye meets air:

lye spills left to dry

soap made with excess lye

raw soap left uncovered

soap un-molded too soon

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Soda Ash Prevention

Soda Ash Prevention

Double-check the saponification values

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Soda Ash Prevention

Soda Ash Prevention

Double-check the saponification values

Cover raw soap while it is in the mold

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Soda Ash Prevention

Soda Ash Prevention

Double-check the saponification values

Cover raw soap while it is in the mold

Do not un-mold soap until it is tongue-neutral

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Soda Ash Prevention

Soda Ash Prevention

Double-check the saponification values

Cover raw soap while it is in the mold

Do not un-mold soap until it is tongue-neutral

Soda Ash is easily removed with water

B k d Ch i t

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Background Chemistry

Background Chemistry

Oil and water dont mix.

Background Chemistry

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Background Chemistry

Oil and Water

Background Chemistry

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Background Chemistry

Nerds and Cheerleaders

Oil, Lye and and Soap

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Oil, Lye and and Soap

Oil and Lye

Oil, Lye and and Soap

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, y p

One Soap

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Oil, Lye and and Soap

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Soap: A Nerdy Cheerleader

Oil, Lye and and Soap

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Stearic Acid, Oleic Acid

Sulfated Castor Oil

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Sulfated Castor Oil

What is sulfated castor oil, and what is its saponification value?

Sulfated Castor Oil

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Sulfated Castor Oil

What is sulfated castor oil, and what is its saponification value?

First commercial non-soap detergent (Fremy 1831)

Sulfated Castor Oil

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Sulfated Castor Oil

What is sulfated castor oil, and what is its saponification value?

First commercial non-soap detergent (Fremy 1831)

AKA Turkey Red Oil

Sulfated Castor Oil

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Sulfated Castor Oil

What is sulfated castor oil, and what is its saponification value?

First commercial non-soap detergent (Fremy 1831)

AKA Turkey Red Oil

Unlike soap, it does not form soap scum in hard water

Sulfated Castor Oil

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Sulfated Castor Oil

What is sulfated castor oil, and what is its saponification value?

First commercial non-soap detergent (Fremy 1831)

AKA Turkey Red Oil

Unlike soap, it does not form soap scum in hard water

Less alkaline than soap

Sulfated Castor Oil

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Sulfated Castor Oil

What is sulfated castor oil, and what is its saponification value?

First commercial non-soap detergent (Fremy 1831)

AKA Turkey Red Oil

Unlike soap, it does not form soap scum in hard water

Less alkaline than soap

Liquid, not solid

Sulfated Castor Oil

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Sulfated Castor Oil

What is sulfated castor oil, and what is its saponification value?

First commercial non-soap detergent (Fremy 1831)

AKA Turkey Red Oil

Unlike soap, it does not form soap scum in hard water

Less alkaline than soap

Liquid, not solid

Made by reacting castor oil with sulfuric acid

Sulfated Castor Oil

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Ricinoleic Acid, Sulforicinoleic Acid

Castor vs Sulfated Castor Oil

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Castor vs Sulfated Castor Oil

Castor SV (ppt KOH) AV (ppt KOH) Water Content

Soapers Choice 184 0 0%

Sulfated Castor SV (ppt KOH) AV (ppt KOH) Water Content

Soapers Choice 97 40 30%

SouthernSoapers

95 23 29%

Organic

Creations

82 58 20%

Castor vs Sulfated Castor Oil

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Castor vs Sulfated Castor Oil

Castor oil is widely used for making soap; sulfated castor oil isnot. You may experiment with sulfated castor oil in soap, but you

must use the appropriate saponification value.

Jojoba

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Jojoba

What is jojoba oil, and what substitutes are available for it?

Jojoba

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Jojoba

What is jojoba oil, and what substitutes are available for it?

Jojoba oil is actually a liquid wax

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Jojoba

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Jojoba

What is jojoba oil, and what substitutes are available for it?

Jojoba oil is actually a liquid wax

Chemistry similar to spermaceti and sebum

Normally about $6/lb

Jojoba

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Jojoba

What is jojoba oil, and what substitutes are available for it?

Jojoba oil is actually a liquid wax

Chemistry similar to spermaceti and sebum

Normally about $6/lb

Currently $10-20/lb

Jojoba

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Jojoba

What is jojoba oil, and what substitutes are available for it?

Jojoba oil is actually a liquid wax

Chemistry similar to spermaceti and sebum

Normally about $6/lb

Currently $10-20/lb

How does jojoba differ from soapmaking oils?

Jojoba, Lye and and Soap

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Jojoba and Lye

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Jojoba, Lye and and Soap

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Cetyl Alcohol

Jojoba Substitutes

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Jojoba Substitutes for Soap

Cetyl Alcohol, $4.88/lb (LotionCrafters.com)

Cetearyl Alcohol, $4.99/lb (LotionCrafters.com)

Behenyl Alcohol, $8.00/lb (TheHerbarie.com) Oleyl Alcohol, $106/lb (ScienceLab.com)

Beeswax, $3.98/lb (SoapersChoice.com)

Candelilla Wax, $6.30/lb (CamdenGrey.com)

Cetyl Esters, $6.38/lb (LotionCrafters.com)

Carnauba wax, $6.77/lb (CamdenGrey.com)

Delight

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Delight

Delight1000= Olive390Palm280Coconut280Castor50

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Delight

li h

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Delight

Delight1000= Olive390Palm280Coconut280Castor50

Lye = 50.00% NaOH, 50.00% distilled water

SSVof Delight is 150.8 ppt NaOH Delight1000Lye288

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More Lyes

M L

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More Lyes

Lye = 50.00% NaOH, 50.00% distilled water

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More Lyes

M L

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More Lyes

Lye = 50.00% NaOH, 50.00% distilled water

Delight1000Lye288Aq0(11.18% Water)

Delight1000Lye288Aq72(15.88% Water)Delight1000Lye288Aq144(20.11% Water)

Delight1000Lye288Aq216(23.93% Water)

Delight1000Lye288Aq288(27.41% Water)

More Lyes

M L

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More Lyes

Lye = 50.00% NaOH, 50.00% distilled water

Delight1000Lye288Aq0(Low-Water)

Delight1000Lye288Aq72Delight1000Lye288Aq144(Medium-Water)

Delight1000Lye288Aq216

Delight1000Lye288Aq288(High-Water)

Lye Concentration

L e Con entration

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Lye Concentration

What is the normal, correct, or standard lye concentration?

Lye Concentration

Lye Concentration

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Lye Concentration

What is the normal, correct, or standard lye concentration?

Ann Bramson,Soap: Making it, Enjoying it(1972)

25-27%, 26% average

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Lye Concentration

Lye Concentration

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Lye Concentration

What is the normal, correct, or standard lye concentration?

Ann Bramson,Soap: Making it, Enjoying it(1972)

25-27%, 26% average Susan Cavitch,The Soapmakers Companion(1997)

26-29%, 27% average

Robert McDaniel,Essentially Soap(2000)

33-38%, 34% average

Lye Concentration

Lye Concentration

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Lye Concentration

What is the normal, correct, or standard lye concentration?

Ann Bramson,Soap: Making it, Enjoying it(1972)

25-27%, 26% average Susan Cavitch,The Soapmakers Companion(1997)

26-29%, 27% average

Robert McDaniel,Essentially Soap(2000)

33-38%, 34% average

Anne Watson,Smart Soapmaking(2007)

30-37%, 33% average

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Temperature

Temperature

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Temperature

40C = 104F

60C = 140F

80C = 176F

Temperature

Temperature

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Temperature

40C = 104F (Cold)

60C = 140F (Warm)

80C = 176F (Hot)

Low-Water Soap, 80C, 200X

Low-Water Soap 200X

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Low-Water Soap, 200X

Low-Water Soap, 80C, 200X

Medium-Water Soap 200X

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Medium Water Soap, 200X

Low-Water Soap, 80C, 200X

High-Water Soap, 200X

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High Water Soap, 200X

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The Secret Life of Soap

The Secret Life of Soap

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The Secret Life of Soap

Do you peek at soap in the mold?

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Neat Soap?

Neat Soap?

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p

Neat soap is a lamellar lyotropic liquid crystalline phase of soapand water.

Neat Soap?

Neat Soap?

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p

Neat soap is a lamellar lyotropic liquid crystalline phase of soapand water.

Liquid crystalline: the molecules are free to move past one an-

other, as in a liquid; they are arranged in ordered patterns, as

in a solid crystal.

Neat Soap?

Neat Soap?

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p

Neat soap is a lamellar lyotropic liquid crystalline phase of soapand water.

Liquid crystalline: the molecules are free to move past one an-

other, as in a liquid; they are arranged in ordered patterns, as

in a solid crystal.

Lyotropic: the liquid crystal contains at least two kinds of

molecule and its properties depend on the concentrations.

Neat Soap?

Neat Soap?

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p

Neat soap is a lamellar lyotropic liquid crystalline phase of soapand water.

Liquid crystalline: the molecules are free to move past one an-

other, as in a liquid; they are arranged in ordered patterns, as

in a solid crystal.

Lyotropic: the liquid crystal contains at least two kinds of

molecule and its properties depend on the concentrations.

Lamellar: the two kinds of molecules are arranged in sheets.

Neat Soap?

Neat Soap?

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p

Neat soap is a lamellar lyotropic liquid crystalline phase of soapand water.

Liquid crystalline: the molecules are free to move past one an-

other, as in a liquid; they are arranged in ordered patterns, as

in a solid crystal.

Lyotropic: the liquid crystal contains at least two kinds of

molecule and its properties depend on the concentrations.

Lamellar: the two kinds of molecules are arranged in sheets. Neat soap is what handcrafted soapmakers know as gel phase

Neat Soap

Neat Soap

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p

Neat Soap

Neat Soap

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Neat Soap

Neat Soap

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Phase Diagrams

Delight Phases

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0

20

40

60

80

100

Aq288Aq144Aq0

40

80

120

160

200

100 200 300

Te

mperature(o

C)

Te

mperature(o

F)

Moisture Content (ppt)

curd (solid)

curd + neat

neat (gel)

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Soap Crystal Texture

Raw Soap Texture at 0 Minutes

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Soap Crystal Texture

Raw Soap Texture at 10 Minutes

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Soap Crystal Texture

Raw Soap Texture at 120 Minutes

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Soap Crystal Texture

Raw Soap Texture at 180 Minutes

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Soap Crystal Texture

Raw Soap Texture at 240 Minutes

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Soap Crystal Texture

Raw Soap Texture at 300 Minutes

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Soap Crystal Texture

Raw Soap Texture at 8 Hours

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Lessons

Gelling

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Soap can be made with lye between 25% and 50% NaOH

High-water soaps gel at lower temperatures

Mid-water soaps gel at higher temperatures

Low-water soaps do not gel

Lessons

Appearance

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Soap can be made with lye between 25% and 50% NaOH

Soap that gelled is translucent

Soap that did not gel is white and opaque

Scientific Soapmaking

Scientific Soapmaking

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Thanks to the HSMG for all the questions I could not have an-

swered 5 years ago.

Scientific Soapmaking

Scientific Soapmaking

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Thanks to the HSMG for all the questions I may be able to answer

5 years from now.