Saturday, August 27, 2011 B yKentonX. ChanCe Special to The China Post O n exiting the Neiwan Train Station ( 內灣火車 站 ), the feeling is immediately one of standing on the threshold where “civilization” returns to nature. Across the valley, mountains stand in majesty, cov- ered in a soft white blanket that is the last remaining mist of the dawn. As the day progresses, the mist slowly rises and gives way to the warm sunshine of midmorning. The scene is like a painting, where the mountains are the backdrop to the shops and other human creations of Neiwan Old Street ( 內灣老街). Even the gentle humming of the single-carriage train seems to keep tune with the chirps of insects and whistling of birds nearby. The shops and the signs also advertise the area’s true Hakka heritage. “The taste of nostalgia! Authentic delicacies! Not to be missed!” declares a small bill- board advertising Hakka meals and the ethnic group’s famous pounded tea or leicha (擂茶 ). Neiwan, located in Hengshan Township ( 橫山鄉 ) in Hsinchu County ( 新竹縣 ), has the healthy blend of development and nature that many crave. It has enough amenities to make life comfortable yet is untouched enough to be natural. The small town was among the earliest places set- tled by the Hakka people in Taiwan. In recent years, the destination has been attracting many visitors, especially those curious to experience Hakka culture and cuisine. It is famed for its old street, wooden the- atre, and a wooden police station (內灣派出所 ) that has survived since 1938. And in keeping with Neiwan’s Hakka spirit, elements of the Hakka culture punctuate life and commerce there. Hakka culture is first obvious in the food sold by venders along Neiwan Old Street, which is lined with traditional wooden architecture and stores. Among the Hakka delicacies offered by vendors are rice dump- lings wrapped in either ginger lily or butterfly jasmine leaves. The rich flavor of the leaves permeates the glu- tinous rice and the snack comes in vegetarian style or a choice of meat fillings. Other refreshments include patrons can dine on choice Hakka dishes, it pre- serves its original function and guests can watch old Taiwanese movies while they dine. Furthermore, customers on either of the restaurant’s two floors can watch as orders from the upper floor are pinned to a bell and slid down a string to the cook on the first floor. The tinkling of the bell announces the arrival of each new order. The restaurant also functions as a museum of sorts, displaying artifacts from village life in Neiwan during the 1950s and 1960s. These include gramophones, telephones, sewing machines, bicycles, farming equip- ment, household furnishings, and appliances. Some parts of the theater also function as gift shops, selling handmade crafts and other memorabilia, including DVDs of old films. The Hakka people are also famed for their resource- as Robot and Ah Qing (阿欽 ). Ah-Qing’s lifelong passion was to educate and entertain and, in addition to his comics, he invented many patented gadgets, including the umbrella drain up cup that collects the rainwater after the umbrella is folded. The architecture and layout of the museum is not what one would traditionally expect. The entrance seems like a passage into a tunnel that opens into a larger area where visitors can move leisurely, while getting insights into the life and work of the famous inventor and cartoonist. The museum has sections for children, where they can try to stand bottles upright using a ring attached to a string at the end of a short pole. Children can also arrange wooden building blocks in several geometric shapes to display their creativity and there are several of Lui’s comic books for visitors’ reading pleasure. A visit to Neiwan should also include a trip to Heng- shan Splendor (橫山采風館 ), a two-story building which accommodates 500 diners on the ground floor and houses a display of farming artifacts, antique fur- niture and household objects on the upper floor. The facility is also home to many movie posters from the 1940s and 1950s. The building’s round design architecture reflects traditional Hakka style and offers a good view from the courtyard, with the landscape including towering mountains. Just outside Hengshan Splendor, visitors can to ride or feed horses and ponies at “Neiwan Field Tour” (內灣旅遊生態導覽館). SPECIALSUPPLEM ENTPho to s:Ke n to X. Cha n c e , sp e c ia lto The ChNeiwan Old Street is lively on weekdays and packed on weekends. How to get there? Neiwan (內灣 ) is close enough to Taiwan’s metropolises to make a one or two-day getaway convenient. What is more, a trip there, whether for a day or two, would not leave a dent in your pocket. The community is easily assessable from any part of Taiwan but a getaway might be better suited for persons living in the northern or central parts of the country. From Taipei, it is a short 65-minute train ride to the Hsinchu Train Station ( 新竹火車站 ). You then take a 20-minute bus ride — costing NT$106 round-trip, to the Zhudong Station ( 竹 東火車站 ). Another 20-minute ride on a single carriage train — NT$28 return — takes you to Neiwan. Another option is to take a cab from the Hsinchu Train Station ( 新竹火車站 ) to Neiwan — NT$150 per person one-way. The Hakka people’s resourcefulness and innovation is on full display in Neiwan, Hsinchu County, where museums, recreational parks, boutiques and restaurants give visitors an insight into Taiwan’s life from the 1950s to the 1970s2011 Neiwan Dashenpo Comics Festival Experiencing the good old ‘Hakka days’ Streets Parade with Imaginary Friends In this cosplay extravaganza headed by Dashenpo, participants parade in elaborate, eye-catching costumes while inviting on-lookers to join in. Hakka Comic Forum Liu Hsing-Ching, the Hakka comic master, shares his expertise and experience in the profession accumulated over a lifetime. More knowledgeable guest speakers join for a forum on the graphic arts. Hakka Comic Theater Youth from the local Jiuzantou (九讚 頭 ) community present their theatrical production, which boasts all-new original scripts and beloved characters from the Dashenpo comic series. Their humor will surely make you laugh and leave you with fond memories. Cartoon Time Corridor The Chunghwa Comic Association (中華 國民漫畫協會 ), lead by Chairman Shen A troupe of Electronica Dashenpo ( 電音大嬸婆) grooves on the dance floor with community performers to bring out the festival’s themes. Old-fashion ed household items evoke nostalgia. At the Wooden Movie Theater ( 內灣戲院), one can watch old Taiwanese movies while dining. The Neiwan Police Station (內灣派出所) has been in operation since 1938 and has a lush, century-old Sweet Tea Olive tree at its door. Hengshan Caifeng Exhibition Hall ( 橫山采風館) features the traditional Hakka lifestyle. Although comics are usually not considered canonical, almost everyone has been exposed to them. The Neiwan Dashenpo (Auntie) Comics Festival aims to promote indigenous Taiwanese comics and graphic arts, as well as to help parents and their children discuss comics and their implications. 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