lommekjent

HØYDEPUNKTER • LOKALTIPS • HELT ENKELT

Virginia Maxwell, Nicola Williams

Oversatt av Lotte Holmboe

FIRENZE OG TOSCANA

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Denne guiden inneholder

Viktig info A–Å Elektrisitet

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I nødstilfellerAmbulanse (gratis fra fasttelefon) %118

Lokalpoliti (gratis fra fasttelefon) %113

Nødanrop fra mobiltelefon %112

Offentlige høytidsdagerNyttårsdag (Capodanno eller Anno Nuovo) 1. januar

Helligtrekongersdag (Epifania eller Befana) 6. januar

Årsdagen for Italias samling (Anniversario dell’Unità d’Italia) 17. mars

1. påskedag (Domenica di Pasqua) mars/april

2. påskedag (Pasquetta eller Lunedì dell’Angelo) mars/april

Frigjøringsdag (Giorno della Liberazione) 25. april

Arbeidets dag (Festa del Lavoro) 1. mai

Republikkens dag (Festa della Repubblica) 2. juni

Maria himmelfartsdag (Assunzione eller Ferragosto) 15. august

Allehelgensdag (Ognissanti) 1. november

Festen for den ube­smittede unnfangelse (Immaculata Conce­zione) 8. desember

1. juledag (Natale) 25. desember

2. juledag (Festa di Santo Stefano) 26. desember

PengerValuta Euro.

Minibanker Bancomat-er (minibanker) er lett å finne.

Betalingskort Internasjonale betalings­kort kan brukes i alle bancomat-er som har riktig logo. Kort kan også brukes i de fleste hoteller, restauranter, butikker, supermarkeder og bompengestasjoner.

Pengeveksling Veksle penger i banker, post­kontorer eller i et cambio (vekslingskontor). Postkontorer og banker har som regel best kurs.

Tips Lokalbefolkningen gir som regel ikke tips til servitører, de fleste tilreisende legger igjen 10–15 prosent hvis service ikke er inklu dert. Pikko loer forventer vanlig vis €1–€2 per

Stazione Santa Maria

¨De fleste bydelene ligger i lettvint gang av­stand fra hoved jern bane­stasjonen, som ligger i Santa Maria Novella i nordvestenden av det historiske sentrum. Drosje innenfor sentrum vil koste rundt €12.

Komme seg rundtTil fotsy Best for… All utforsking

¨De smale gatene i Firenze sentrum er

omfattet av ZTL (Zona a Traffico Limitato; begren­set tra fikksone). Der er moto ri sert trafikk sterkt begren set. De fleste kom­mer seg rundt til fots.

Bussy Best for… Dagsturer til Fiesole, Siena og San Gimignano

¨Buss til Fiesole (buss 7) går fra Piazza San Marco.

¨Buss 13 kjører opp til Piazzale Michelangelo og Basilica di San Miniato al Monte. Den går fra ATAF­busstoppene nær Stazio­ne di Santa Maria Novella.

¨Billetter er gyldige i 90 minutter og koster €1,20

når de kjøpes i tabacchi (tobakksforretninger) eller ATAF billett­ og in­formasjonskontor ved jernbanestasjonen, men €2 på bussen. Husk at sjåførene ikke gir igjen vekslepenger.

¨Buss til Siena og San Gimignano går fra Sita busstasjon i Via Santa Caterina da Siena nær Piazza della Stazione.

Bil og motorsykkely Best for... Dagsturer til Chianti

¨De historiske sentrene i Firenze, Siena, Pisa, Lucca og San Gimignano dekkes av ZTL­er. Hvis du kjører inn i dem, risi kerer du en solid bot. Dessuten kan parkering være dyrt og vanskelig å finne. Det lønner seg å bruke offentlig transport.

Togy Best for... Dagsturer til Pisa og Lucca

¨Hyppige avganger til Pisa, og mindre hyppige til Lucca. Sjekk ankomst­ og avgangsdetaljer på www.trenitalia.com.

¨De historiske sentrene i Pisa og Lucca ligger i lettvint gangavstand fra byenes sentrale jernbane­stasjoner.

Unngå køerI høysesongen hører lange køer til livets reali te­ter på Firenzes hovedmuseer. Men for €3 per billett (€4 til Uffizi og Galleria dell’Accademia) kan du reservere billetter til ni musei statali (stat lige museer), som Uffizi, Galleria dell’Acca­de mia, Palazzo Pitti, Museo del Bargello og Cappelle Medicee. De eneste museene der forhånds bestilling anbefales, er Uffizi og Accademia.

For å ordne med billett, sjekk nettsiden eller ring Firenze Musei (%055 29 48 83; www.firenzemusei.it; htelefonbestillingslinje 08.30–18.30 man–fre, til 12.30 lør), eller gå til billettskranken på baksiden av Chiesa di Orsanmichele eller på et av byens statlige museer, unntatt Accade mia. Mange hoteller i Firenze for hånds bestiller også museumbilletter for sine gjester.

Viktig info A–Å 181180 Praktiske tips

€2–€3 i et trestjerners hotell og €4–5 i et fire- eller femstjerners hotell.

Beste lavprisAcademy Hostel (www.academyhostel.eu) Billig innkvartering uten at det går ut over komfort eller renslighet.

Hotel Scoti (www.hotel scoti.com) Strålende kom binasjon av gammel-dags sjarm og lav pris i et 1500-talls-palazzo.

Hotel Dali (www.hotel dali.com) Svært hyggelig hotell med 10 romslige, hjemmekoselige rom.

Hotel Cestelli (www.hotelcestelli.com) Store rom i et 1100-talls-palazzo nær den fasjo-nable Via de’ Tornabuoni.

Beste mellomklassePalazzo Guadagni Hotel (www.palazzoguadagni.com) Renessansepalass som er forvandlet til et svært prisgunstig hotell med loggia terrasse.

Hotel Torre Guelfa (www.hoteltorreguelfa.com) Så historisk at det har sitt eget tårn fra 1200-tallet.

Hotel Davanzati (www.hoteldavanzati.it) Laby-rint av lekre rom, uven-

tede fresker og moderne bekvemmeligheter.

Antica Dimora Johlea (www.johanna.it) En av fem historiske og ele-gante B&B-residenser spredt rundt San Marco.

Beste toppklasseAntica Torre di Via de’ Tornabuoni 1 (www.tornabuoni1.com) Stilig, romslig og moderne, praktfull takterrasse.

Il Salviatino (www.salvi atino.com) Luksushotell skjult blant sypresstrær i åsene 3,5 kilometer øst for Firenze.

Hotel L’O (www.hotel orologioflorence.com) Elegant designerhotell med fantastisk be liggen-het overfor Basilica di Santa Maria Novella.

Palazzo Vecchietti (www.palazzovecchietti.com) Designerhotell i et 1400-talls-palazzo.

Ankomsty Beste tips For beste måte å komme til hotellet på, se s. 17.

Pisa internasjonale flyplass

¨Alternativt navn: Aeroporto Galileo Galilei.

¨Toscanas hoved knute-punkt for flytrafikk, tog til Stazione di Santa Maria Novella i Firenze (€7,80, 1,5 time) minst én gang i timen kl. 4.30–22.25).

¨Buss én gang i timen til Firenze drives av Terra-vision (€4,99, 1,25 timer én vei). Kjøp billetter om bord eller i Terravision-skranken i ankomst-hallen. Busstopp i Firenze er på Piazza della Sta-zione, utenfor jernbane-stasjonen.

Firenze flyplass ¨Alternative navn:

Amerigo Vespucci; Peretola.

¨Drosje til centro historico (det historiske sentrum) koster €20 (€22 på søndager og høytidsdager, €23,30 mellom kl. 22 og 6), pluss €1 per koffert.

¨Volainbus kjører busser (én vei/tur-retur €6/8, 25 minutter) til Piazza della Stazione hvert 30. minutt mellom kl. 6 og 23.30.

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Bestill overnatting på forhånd

¨ Innkvarterings-alternativene omfatter vand rerhjem, familie drev-ne pensioni (pensjonater), B&B-er, boutique-hoteller og luksusvilla- eller palazzo- (palass-) hoteller. Det er alltid lurt å bestille i god tid på forhånd.

¨Sjekk hotellnettsider for spesialtilbud. I lavseson-gen kan prisene senkes med opptil 50 prosent.

¨Hoteller er lovpålagt røykfrie, og mange har innkvartering for be ve-gelseshemmede gjester.

¨ I det meste av Toscana er det en obliga to risk hotell-skatt (tassa di soggiorno) på toppen av hotell-regningen, og den må vanligvis betales kontant. Beløpet er av hen gig av hva slags sted du bor på og når på året, men som en grov guide kan du vente å betale €1 per person per natt i et én stjernes hotell eller vand rerhjem, €2 i et B&B,

Når du bør dra

Høysesong (mai, juni, september, oktober): Perfekt reise vær, men regn med mange men-nesker og høye inn-kvarterings priser.

Mellomsesong (april, juli og august): Beha ge-lig vær i april, mens juli og august kan være svært varme.

Lavsesong (november–mars): Overflod av gode innkvarteringstilbud, men mange hoteller og restauranter stenger.

Påske og Ferragosto (15. aug): Populær blant italienske turister; bestill innkvartering i god tid.

Før du drar

Praktiske tips

178

Alessandro Dari Skulpturelle, håndlagde smykker (s. 111)

Mio Concept Stilige designsaker (s. 59)

Beste moteA Piedi Nudi nel Parco Fører superlekre avant­garde­designere (s. 47)

Alessandro Gherardeschi Sær pre­gede skjorter og bluser for ham og henne (s. 61)

Loretta Caponi Prakt­fullt, hånd brodert nattøy, sengeklær, duker og servietter (s. 61)

Grevi Hodeplagg for alle anledninger (s. 60)

Beste i papirGiulio Giannini e Figlio Har lagd marmorert papir, nydelig innbundne bøker og papirvarer siden 1856 (s. 115)

Pineider Har solgt papir­varer og elegant kontor­utstyr i skinn siden 1774 (avbildet til venstre; s. 46)

Alberto Cozzi Marmorert papir, skinn­innbundne dagbøker og fargerike kort (s. 61)

Beste parfyme og såpeOfficina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella Parfymeri­apotek etablert i 1612 (s. 61)Lorenzo Villoresi Spesiallagde parfymer og duftblandinger (s. 111)

La Bottega dell’Olio Oljer, såper og hudpleie­produkter laget med olivenolje (s. 46)

Beste matvarerDolce Forte Håndlagde sjokolader (s. 59)

Panificio Il Magnifico Tradisjonelle kaker fra Siena (s. 150)

Beste

I middelalderens og renessansens Firenze ble gullsmeder, sølvsmeder og skomakere like høyt ansett som billedhuggere og kunstmalere. I dag er florentinerne like opptatt av design og kvalitet og setter kvalitet høyt. De fleste betaler også gjerne hva enn det koster (vanligvis et betydelig beløp) for å fare la bella figura (gjøre et godt inntrykk).

MoteFlorentinerne er svært opptatt av klær og ut­seende, ikke overraskende med tanke på at den italienske moteindustrien oppstod her. Guccio Gucci og Salvatore Farragamo fikk haute couture­ballen i gang i 1920­årene, og det første italienske prêt­à­porter­showet fant sted her i 1951.

Via de’Tornabuoni og gatene omkring – spesielt Via della Vigna Nuova, Via della Spada og Borgo SS Apostoli – er byens motesenter, med eks klu sive de signere fra Italia og andre land. Det er også noen fremadstormende designere her, men høye hus leier betyr at de oftere holder til i Oltrarno og Santa Croce.

HåndverksprodukterBillige, importerte håndvesker og andre varer er vanlige, spesielt på byens to store markeder, Mercato Centrale og Mercato Nuovo. Men for seriøse shoppere som vil utforske en by kjent for sin håndverkskvalitet, er det godt med tradi­sjonelle boutiquer og botteghe (verksteder) å besøke. Mange av dem ligger i Oltrarno­området sør for Arno, se s. 114 for detaljer.

Tradisjonelle varer produsert for hånd eller med århundregamle maskiner omfatter smykker, skinn­varer (sko, hansker, vesker), stoffer og papirvarer, som marmorert papir og innbundne dagbøker.

Beste håndverks-produkterLetizia Fiorini Hånd­lagde, tradisjonelle ita­lienske dukker (s. 58)

Antico Setifico Fio ren-tino Overdådig damask og brokade (s. 115)

Scarpelli Mosaici Spesialister på pietre dure (puslespillaktige marmor mosaikker; s. 78)

Beste skinnvarerFrancesco da Firenze Håndsydde herre­ og damesko (s. 115)

Casini Firenze Nydelig fremstilte klær, vesker og sko (s. 115)

Madova Hansker i en­hver farge og stil (s. 114)

Beste smykker Angela Caputi Dristige og fargerike harpiks­smykker (s. 46)

shopping

Shopping, Via de’ Tornabuoni (s. 46)

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Designerutsalg: Barberino Designer Outlet (www.mcarthurglen.it; Via Meucci, Barberino di Mugello; h10–20 man–fre, til 21 lør og søn) 40 kilometer nord for Firenze; buss (voksne/rabat tert retur €15/8, 35 minutter, kl. 10 og 14.30) fra Piazza della Stazione.The Mall (www.themall.it; Via Europa 8, Leccio; h10–19) 30 kilometer sørøst for Firenze; buss (€5) fra SITA buss­stasjon mellom kl. 08.50 og 13, retur mellom kl. 14 og 18.30.

Beste shopping 163162 Beste shopping

Søyler på Piazza della Repubblica (s. 40)

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den sen (s. 39) fra 1300- tallet med nagleprydede dører og sentral loggia. Ved siden av Slowly bar litt bortenfor kan du kikke gjen nom den so li-de jern porten for å se de gamle tegl steins hvelvene.

5 Chiesa di Santa TrinìtaFortsett til Via de’ Tornabuoni, Firenzes mest berømte shopping-gate. Kryss Piazza Santa Trinìta og se opp for å beundre Palazzo Spini-Feroni fra 1200-tallet, med Salvatore Ferra ga-mos flaggskip butikk. Gå

inn i denne kirken (s. 54) og se på ka-pellene med fresker.

6 Via del ParioneGå nedover denne smale gaten full av gamle her-skapshus (i dag leilig-heter) og hånd verks-verksteder. Stikk innom papir mar mo rereren Alberto Cozzi (s. 61) og dukkemakeren Letizia Fiorini (s. 58) for å se dem i arbeid.

7 Chiesa dei Santissimi ApostoliTilbake i Via de’ Tor na-buoni svinger du inn i

Borgo SS Apostoli for å se denne kirken i ro-mansk stil på en ned sen-ket plass – i sin tid kirke-gård for udøpte sped-barn. Lenger fremme fin ner du tos kanske olivenolje pro dukter i La Bot tega dell’Olio (s. 46) og harpikssmykker hos Angela Caputi (s. 46).

8 Hotel ContinentalFortsett rundt til Hotel Continental, der du avslutter vandringen på takbaren (s. 44). Den har spektakulær utsikt over Ponte Vecchio.

1 Piazza della RepubblicaBegynn med en kaffe på en av de historiske kafeene på denne nyde-lige plassen (s. 40) fra 1800-tallet. Den ble anlagt ved at en jø disk getto og et grønn saks-marked ble fjernet, og nesten 6000 beboere måtte flytte.

2 Chiesa e Museo di OrsanmicheleTa Via Calimala og der-etter Via Orsanmichele for å komme til denne unike kirken (s. 38), skapt på 1300-tallet da arkadene på et år-hundre gammelt korn-marked ble bygd inn og to etasjer føyd til.

3 Mercato NuovoTilbake på Via Calimala fortsetter du sørover til du ser «Det nye marke­det» fra 1500-tallet (s. 47). Flo rentinerne kal ler bronsestatuen av et villsvin på sørsiden for «Il Porcellino» (Gris-ungen) – gni den på try-net for å kom me tilbake til Firenze!

4 Museo di Palazzo DavanzatiPå Via Porta Rossa ligger denne kjøp manns re si­

Alle som besøker Firenze tilbringer tid i de brolagte middelaldergatene mellom Via de’ Tornabuoni og Via del Proconsolo, men det er få som utforsker dem grundig. I stedet fokuserer de fleste på de berømte monumentene og plassene. Denne vandreturen vil gjøre deg kjent med noen mindre kjente severdigheter og bakgater.

2 RutenStart Piazza della Repubblica

Slutt La Terrazza bar på Hotel Continental

Lengde 2 km; to timer

5 Ta en pauseDen fasjonable Via de’ Tornabuoni er selve hjertet i Firenzes kaféliv. Procacci (s. 45), Caffè Giacosa (s. 58) og Le Renaissance Café (s. 45) er flotte valg.

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1 People-Watch in the Piazza Transport hub, passeggiata (evening stroll) hotspot and host to an antiques market on the first Sunday of each month, Piazza Mino da Fiesole is the heart of the village and a perfect choice for quality people watching. Claim a stone bench in the middle of the square or sit at a table at one of the restaurant terraces to view the action.

2 A Contemplative Moment The 11th-century Cattedrale di San Romolo, or duomo (cathedral), may be Fiesole’s main religious monument, but it’s not necessarily the best loved. The 14th-century Chiesa di San Franc-esco (h9am-noon & 3-6pm) is where locals come to snatch a contemplative moment or two during the day, stop-ping on their way here to admire the staggeringly beautiful panorama of Florence that unfolds from the terrace adjoining the 15th-century Basilica di Sant’Alessandro.

3 Lunch at La Reggia degli Etrusch Swoonworthy views and delicious Tuscan cuisine can be enjoyed on the panoramic terrace of this restaurant (%055 5 93 85; www.lareggiadeglietruschi.com; Via San Francesco; meals €30; hlunch & dinner daily) set in a former monastery close to the Chiesa di San Francesco. Florentines flock here on Sunday afternoons, but midweek lunches are still a mainly local affair.

4 FiesoleBike On weekends, cycling is a popular pastime. Join the local pelaton by renting a bike from FiesoleBike (%345-33 50 926; www.fiesolebike.it; Piazza Mino da Fiesole), operated by qualified biking and hiking guide, Giovanni Crescioli. GIovanni also conducts guided sunset cycling tours to Flor-ence (downhill all the way!) and cross-country rides past farmhouses, churches, olive groves and vineyards.

5 A Late-Afternoon Drink For a reward after your exertions, head back to Piazza Mino da Fiesole where you can opt for local hangout JJ Hill (%055 5 93 24; Piazza Mino da Fiesole 40; h6pm-midnight Mon-Wed, 5pm-1am Thu-Sat, to 11pm Sun), an atmospheric Irish pub with a tip-top beer list, excellent burgers and other quality pub grub, or for the elegant, pagoda-covered terrace of Villa Aurora (%055 5 93 63; www.villaurora.net; Piazza Mino da Fiesole 39; meals €30), a favourite with Fiesole’s villa owners since 1860.

6 Music Under the Stars On summer nights, locals join urbane Florentines and the occasional bedazzled tourist in the 1st-century-BC Roman amphitheatre at Fiesole’s Area Archeologica, off Piazza Mino da Fiesole, to enjoy the films, theatrical performances and musical concerts ( jazz, classical and contemporary) staged as part of Italy’s oldest open-air festival, Estate Fiesolana (www.estatefiesolana.it).

Getting There

L ATAF bus 7 (€1.20, 20 minutes, every 15 minutes) runs from Florence’s Piazza San Marco to Fiesole’s central square, Piazza Mino di Fiesole.

Set in cypress-studded hills 9km northeast of Flor-ence, this bijou hilltop village has seduced visitors for centuries with its cool breezes, olive groves, Renaissance-styled villas and spectacular views. Before you arrive, download the map from the website of Fiesole’s tourist office (%055 596 13 23, 055 596 13 11; www.fiesoleforyou.it; Via Portigiani 3, Fiesole; h10am-6.30pm summer, shorter hr rest of yr). It shows three walking routes through the village, as well as tips for discovering the most breathtaking views of Florence.

A Day in FiesoleLocal Life

8181A Day in FiesoleWorth a Trip80

y Beste tips fHopp over køen: for­

hånds bestill billetter på nett (gebyr €4) og hent ved ankomst.

fRegn med å bruke god tid på loggiaen i and re etasje eller Secon­do Corridoio (andre korridor), mellom Primo (første) og Terzo (tredje) korridor – utsikten mot elvene og åsene bak er berusende.

fNøy deg med tre til fire timer i Uffizi.

fFor informasjon om de nyeste rommene (og de som midlertidig er stengt på grunn av utvi del sen), gå til fanen «Advise» nederst på www.uffizi.org.

fLegg merke til døren ved siden av rom 25. Den fører til Medicienes Corridoio Vasariano (s. 59), bygd for å forbinde Uffizi og Palazzo Pitti (s. 100).

5 Ta en pause fGå til Uffizis takkafé

for frisk luft og utsikt.

fSpis gourmet­panini, vin og toskansk sjoko­lade på ‘Ino (s. 43).

Gå ikke glipp avSienesisk kunst fra 1200­talletNår du ankommer Primo Corridoio, er første rom til venstre for trappen (rom 2) inn redet som et middelalder kapell for at rammene skal passe det fantastiske innholdet: Tre store alter malerier fra florentinske kirker, malt av de tos kanske mes terne Duccio di Buoninsegna, Cima bue og Giot to. De viser overgangen fra gotik ken til tidlig renessansen.

Sienesisk kunst fra 1300­talletRom 3 går frem til 1300-tallets Siena, med Simo ne Martinis skimrende Maria bebudelse (1333). Han og Lippo Memmi malte det sammen. Jomfruen står i et hav av gull. Legg også merke til Pietro Lorenzettis Madonna med barn og helgener (1340).

Internasjonal gotikkI rom 4 kan du sette pris på realismen og det ekstra ordinært fine bladgullarbeidet i San Remi-gio-Pietà (1360–1365) av Giotto-eleven Giottino (også kjent som Giotto di Stefano). Pub likums-favoritten i rom 5 og 6 – som er ett stort rom – er Gentile da Fabrianos De hellige tre konger (1423), opprinnelig bestilt til kirken Santa Trìnita.

RenessansepionerenePerspektivbruk var et viktig kjennetegn ved den florentinske skolen (rom 7) som tidlig på 1400- tallet startet renessansen. Et panel fra Paolo Uccellos mektige Slaget ved San Romano (1436–1440), som hyller Firenzes seier over Siena, viser hvordan kunstneren ikke helt lyktes med å skape perspektiv – han lar alle lanser, hester og soldater peke mot et forsvinningspunkt midt i bildet.

Hertugen og hertuginnen av UrbinoLa deg imponere av realismen i Piero della Francescas usminkede portretter av hertugen og

Uffizi-galleriets eksepsjonelle kunstsamling dekker nærmest hele kunsthistorien, men hjertet er renessansesamlingen, som er full av mester-verk – det er fort gjort å bruke en formiddag kun på galleriets uforlignerlige samling Botticelli-er. I forbindelse med det pågående «Nye Uffizi»-prosjektet til 65 millioner euro, ble 1800 kvadrat meter ny utstillingsplass åpnet i 2012. Utvidelsene pågår fortsatt. Når den er fullført (sluttdato er ikke annonsert), vil Uffizi bestå av over 100 rom, og en utgang tegnet av den japanske arkitekten Arato Isozaki.

1 Kart s. 36, D6

www.polomuseale.firenze.it

Piazzale degli Uffizi 6

voksne/rabatterte €6,50/3,25

h08.15–18.50 tir–søn

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Galleria degli UffiziHøydepunkter

Portretter av hertugen og hertuginnen av Urbino, malt av Piero della Francesca

31Galleria degli UffiziDuomo til Piazza della Signoria30

Duomo til Piazza della Signoria (s. 22)Det verdensberømte Galleria degli Uffizi er et av mange praktfulle museer i byens middelaldersentrum.

HøydepunkterDuomoGalleria degli Uffizi Palazzo Vecchio

E

San Lorenzo ogSan Marco (s. 62)Dette er Medicienes territorium, med fami- liens herskapshus, sog- nekirke og mausoleum.

HøydepunkterEGalleria dell'AccademiaBasilica di San Lorenzo

Santa Croce (s. 82)Fremveksten av hyper- moderne spisesteder, barer og klubber, er i ferd med å gi det gamle boligstrøket nytt liv.

HøydepunkterEMuseo del BargelloBasilica di Santa Croce

Boboli og San Miniato al Monte (s. 98)En blanding av parker, hager og utsiktster-rasser strekker seg fra Arno til Piazzale Michelangelo.

HøydepunktEPalazzo Pitti

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Duomo

Basilica diSanta Croce

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Galleriadell'Accademia

Museo delBargello

Galleriadegli Uffizi

Oltrarno (s. 112)En forlokkende labyrint av brosteinsgater og hemmelige piazzaer som skjuler tradisjonelle botteghe (kunsthånd-verksteder), bohemske vinbarer og perler for matelskere.

Verdt en avstikkerHøydepunkterE

Piazza dei Miracoli (Pisa)LuccaOpera della Metropoli-tana di Siena (Siena)Museo Civico (Siena)ChiantiSan Gimignano

Santa Maria Novella (s. 48)Shoppere har i mange år latt seg lokke til dette elegante hjørnet av byen, som preges av sofistikerte butikker langs Via de' Tornabuoni.

HøydepunktEBasilica di Santa Maria Novella

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Basilica diSanta Maria

Novella

Basilica diSan Lorenzo

PalazzoPitti

OmråderFirenze og Toscana

18 Områder 19

For mer informasjon, se Praktiske tips (s. 177)

ValutaEuro (€)

SpråkItaliensk

VisumIngen begrensninger for EU- og EØS-

borgere, så alt nordmenn trenger er et gyldig pass.

PengerMinibanker er lett tilgjengelige. Betalings-

kort godtas på de fleste hoteller og mange restauranter. De som ikke gjør det, er

merket i omtalene.

MobiltelefonerSjekk roamingprisene til mobiloperatøren din før du drar, og vurder om det vil lønne

seg å kjøpe et italiensk SIM-kort.

TidssoneItalia ligger i samme tidssone som Norge, og

har sommer- og vintertid akkurat som oss.

Stikkontakter og adaptereStrømmen holder 230 V. Det finnes to typer

stikkontakter: En har tre runde pinner over hverandre, mens den andre har to pinner på

en vannrett linje, akkurat som i Norge.

TipsDe fleste besøkende legger igjen 10 til 15

prosent av regningen i tips til servitører, så fremt det ikke er lagt til servicetillegg. Avrund

drosje priser opp til nærmeste euro.

Komme seg rundtDet er enklest å utforske Firenze til fots, så turister har ikke noe stort behov for å bruke byens transportmidler. Unntakene er bussene til Fiesole og Piazzale Michelangelo (s. 180).

Fra Firenze er det enklest å ta bussen til Siena og San Gimignano. Til Pisa og Lucca er det best å ta tog. For å utforske Chianti trenger du derimot en bil.

K Bil og motorstykkelDet er strenge ZTL-er (Zone a Traffico Limitato; soner med begrenset trafikk) i Firenze, Siena, Pisa, Lucca og San Gimignano. Kjører du der, risikerer du en bot på opptil €200. Gå til www.comune.fi.it for et kart over ZTL-er i Firenze. I Firenze er det gratis gateparkering på Piazza le Michelangelo. Det er dyr (rundt €20 per dag) underjordisk parkering rundt Fortezza da Basso, og i Oltrarno under Piaz-zale di Porta Romana. Se områdene for mer informasjon om parkering i andre byer.

J BussFirenze betjenes av buss og elektriske mini busser, men få turister bruker dem. De fleste bussene går til og fra ATAF-bussholde-plassene overfor den sørøstre utgangen fra Stazione di Santa Maria Novella. Billettene koster €1,20 og kan kjøpes i ATAF-billett-kontoret som ligger ved siden av stasjonen. Busser til resten av Toscana går fra Sita buss-stasjon, som ligger ved Piazza della Stazione.

K DrosjeI de fleste byer i Toscana, også Firenze, kan du ikke praie drosjer på gaten. Du finner drosje-holdeplasser i nærheten av jernbane stasjoner og bussholdeplasser. I Firenze kan du også ringe %055 42 42 eller %055 43 90.

L TogDe italienske jernbanene Trenitalia (www.trenitalia.com) er moderne og effektive, men dekker ikke hele Toscana. Gå til hjemme siden for ruter, rutetabeller og billettpriser.

Ankomst FirenzeRegionen Toscana betjenes av to internasjonale flyplasser: Pisa internasjonale flyplass (%05 084 93 00; www.pisa-airport.com; Piazzale D’Ascanio) og Firenze flyplass (www.aeroporto.firenze.it). Det går ingen fly direkte fra Norge til Firenze, men du kan mellom lande i Europa eller fly direkte til Pisa. Du kan også fly til Roma og ta toget fra Romas Stazione Termini til Stazione di Santa Maria Novella i Firenze. Togturen går med høyhastighetstog og tar omtrent halvannen time. Det går også tog til Firenze fra en rekke storbyer i Europa, og fra italienske byer som Milano, Bologna og Venezia, samt fra Roma. I tillegg til Stazione di Santa Maria Novella har Firenze én hovedjernbanestasjon til – Stazione Campo di Marte. Begge ligger i Firenze sentrum.

A Fra Pisa internasjonale flyplass

Til Beste transportPiazza della Stazione Tog og buss

A Fra Firenze flyplass

Til Beste transportPiazza della Stazione Skyttelbuss eller

drosje

A På flyplassenePisa internasjonale flyplass (PSA) har tjenester og fasiliteter som omfatter bagasje-oppbevaring, turistinformasjonskontor, snackbarer og butikker. Jernbanestasjonen ligger under 40 meter fra terminalen. Du kan kjøpe togbilletter i informasjonskontoret i ankomsthallen.

Firenze flyplass (FLR) Turistinformasjons-disk og snackbarer. Gå ut av terminalen og til høyre mot drosjeholdeplassen. Buss holde-plassen ligger utenfor ankomsthallen.

DagsbudsjettMindre enn €70

X Sovesalsseng: €20–40

X Gourmetsandwich: €4

X Kaffe drukket stående i baren: €1

Mellomklasse €70–200 X Dobbeltrom på B&B: €100–200

X Måltid på trattoria: €35

X Aperitivo: €8

Det beste, mer enn €200 X Dobbeltrom på boutiquehotell: over €200

X Kaffe sittende på en kaféterrasse: €4

X Måltid på finere restaurant €50

Nyttige nettsider X Florentine (www.theflorentine.net)

Engelsk språklig avis.

X Turismo in Toscana (www.turismo.intoscana.it) Den offisielle nettsiden til Toscanas turistmyndigheter.

X Firenze Spettacolo (www.firenzespetta colo.it) Guide til underholdning i byen.

X Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/italy/tuscany) Masse praktisk informasjon.

Forberedelser hjemmefra X Tre måneder før I høysesongen og tiden

rundt bør du bestille overnatting så lang tid i forveien som mulig.

X To måneder før Skal du reise om våren, bør du bestille billetter til Maggio Musicale Fiorentino.

X To uker før Bestill billetter til Uffizi og Galleria dell’Accademia på nettsiden til Firenze Musei (www.firenzemusei.it).

Før du drarVerdt å vite

Verdt å vite 1716

Lynguide til FirenzeHjelp til å forstå Firenze – hva du bør gjøre og hvordan

Praktiske tipsPraktiske tips og triks – bl.a. om hoteller

HøydepunkterFå mest mulig ut av besøket

Verdt å viteTips for en best mulig reise

Komme seg rundtsom lokalbefolkningen

LokalkjentKjennernes Firenze.

OmråderHva du finner hvor

Viktig informasjonom åpningstider, etc.

Firenze og Toscanas beste kafeer, barer, opplevelser ...

ByvandringerOpplev byen gatelangs

Opplev Firenze og ToscanaDet beste du kan se og gjøre, område for område

Firenze og Toscanas besteTematiske lister over byens høydepunkter: Lett å planlegge!

00-title-contents-pk-flc3_NO.indd 2 09.12.14 13:33

Spesielt anbefalt – se etter disse merkene!

1 Severdigheter

5 Spise

6 Drikke

3 Underholdning

7 Shopping

Lonely Planets Firenze og ToscanaLonely Planets Lommekjent-guider er spesiallagd for å ta deg rett til hjertet av regionen.

Her finner du severdig-hetene du bare må få med deg, samt tipsene som gjør besøket ekstra minneverdig. Vi har delt Firenze og Toscana opp i områder det er enkelt å manøvrere i, med et bruker-vennlig kart for hvert av områdene. Lonely Planets ekspert forfattere har sjekket ut alt det beste ved Firenze og Toscana: by vandringer, mat, natteliv og shopping, for å nevne noe. Lokalkjent-sidene hvisker deg i øret hva som er ekstra genuint og spennende å utforske.

Her får du selvsagt de nød-vendige, praktiske tipsene for at alt skal gå som smurt under-veis: reiserute-forslag, hvordan komme seg rundt, hvor mye tips du bør gi på ulike steder.

Boka er din garanti for de virkelig store opplevelsene.

GarantiDu kan stole på alle anbefalin-ger i Lonely Planets guider fordi forfatterne våre besøker hvert eneste sted vi skriver om, også i forkant av nye utgaver. Vi tar aldri imot noe gratis fra noen, og forteller deg uhildet hvordan tingene faktisk er.

Disse symbolene gir deg praktisk infor-masjon om de anbefalte stedene:

% Telefonnummerh Åpningstiderp Parkeringn Ikke-røyki Internett-tilgangW Wi-Fi-tilgangv Vegetariske retter på menyen

E Engelskspråklig menyc Familievennlig# Kjæledyrvennligg Bussf Fergej Trikkd Tog

Finn hver anbefaling kjapt – på kart for hvert område:

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For omtale, se:E Høydepunkter s. 48æ Severdigheter s. 58ú Spise s. 60û Drikke s. 63ý Underholdning s. 64þ Shopping s. 66

Louvre, Tuileries og Opéra56verkene, iskremen og de ikke-søte delikatessene lages på stedet. Noen av dem er spesialiteter som er oppfunnet her, som baba rhum (brioche dynket i rom) og puit d’amour (butterdeig fylt med krem og toppet med karamell). (www.stohrer.fr, på fransk; 51 rue Montorgueil, 2e; retter €11,50–14,90; h07.30–20.30; mÉtienne Marcel eller Sentier)

L’Escargot FRANSK €€€

21 5 Kart s. 56 , G4

En enorm gullsnegle pryder den skog grønne fasaden til dette fredede monu mentet. Du fi nner også snegler på menyen, sammen med froske lår, biff chateaubriand med béarnaise saus, kalve brissel og hummer fra Bretagne fl ambert i whisky. Her har alle fra Proust til Bogie og Bacall vært gjester. (%01 42 36 33 51; 38 rue Montorgueil, 1er; menyer €80–150; hlunsj søn–fre, middag daglig; mLes Halles)

Drikke Harry’s New York Bar BAR

22 6 Kart s. 56 , C2

Denne skjønnheten av en mahogni bar er visstnok stedet vi har å takke for Bloody Mary. Drinken ble opp funnet her i 1921, etter at tomat juice på boks var blitt populært. (Harry’s fant også opp Blue Lagoon i 1960, men det kan vi tilgi dem.) I piano baren i kjelleren spilles det jazz klassikere. (www.harrys-bar.fr; 5 rue Daunou, 2e; h12.00–02.00 søn–

tor, til 03.00 fre og lør, pianobar 22.00–02.00 tir–tor, til 03.00 fre og lør; mOpéra)

Bar Hemingway BAR

23 6 Kart s. 56 , C2

Ifølge legenden skal Hemingway, be-væpnet med en maskinpistol, ha vært med på å frigjøre denne baren med trepanel på veggene og skinntrukket bar under andre verdenskrig. I dag er Ritz’ praktstykke fullt av bilder tatt av Papa. Her får du også byens beste mar ti nier. Et sted for fi nstasen. (www.ritzparis.com; Hôtel Ritz Paris, 15 place Vendôme, 1er; h18.30–02.00; mConcorde eller Madeleine)

Angelina SALON DE THÉ

24 6 Kart s. 56 , C3

Tesalongen i belle époque-stil fra 1903 ligger under rue de Rivolis søyle gang. Den er så berømt for sin luksuriøse, afrikanske varme sjokolade (serve res med en skål pisket krem) at køen ofte står ut døren. (www.angelina-paris.fr, på fransk; 226 rue de Rivoli, 1er; h07.30–19.00 man–fre, fra 08.30 lør og søn; mTuileries)

Verjus VINBAR

25 6 Kart s. 56 , E3

Den nyskapende matelskerduoen bak denne nyåpnede vinbaren serverer fi ffi g barmat. Da dette ble skrevet, var planen å åpne en restau rant ved siden av. Dette er et sted å holde øye med. (www.verjusparis.com; 47 rue de Montpensier, 1er; h18.00–23.00 man–lør; mTuileries)

63Drikke

Ifølge legenden skal væpnet med en maskinpistol, ha værtmed på å frigjøre denne baren med trepanel på veggene og skinntrukketbar under andre verdenskriger Ritz’ praktstykke fullt tatttattta av Pav Pav apa. Her får du også byens beste marti nier. Et sted for (www.ritzparis.com; Hôtel Ritz PVendômeVendômeV , 1er; h18.30–02.eller Madeleine)

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For omtale, se:E Høydepunkter s. 48æ Severdigheter s. 58ú Spise s. 60û Drikke s. 63ý Underholdning s. 64þ Shopping s. 66

Louvre, Tuileries og Opéra56

00-title-contents-pk-flc3_NO.indd 3 09.12.14 13:34

Opplev Firenze og Toscana 21

Verdt en avstikkerEn dag i Fiesole .................. 80Lucca ..................................134Chianti ................................152San Gimignano ..................154

Santa Maria Novella

Duomo til Piazza della Signoria

San Lorenzo og San Marco

Santa Croce

Boboli og San Miniato al Monte

Oltrarno

Pisa

Siena

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Lynguide til Firenze og Toscana 7Høydepunkter .......................8Lokalkjent ............................. 12På fire dager ........................14Verdt å vite ........................... 16Kart: Firenze og Toscanas områder .............. 18

00-title-contents-pk-flc3_NO.indd 4 08.12.14 11:03

ANDREA PISTOLESI/GETTY IMAGES ©

Praktisketips 177Før du drar ......................... 178Ankomst Firenze ............... 179Komme seg rundt .............180Viktig info A–Å ................... 181Språk ..................................184

Firenze ogToscana påsitt beste 157Beste vandringerByens hjerte.........................................158En rundtur i renessansen .................. 160

Firenze og Toscanas beste Shopping ..............................................162Arkitektur ............................................ 164Utsikter ................................................ 166Natteliv .................................................167Mat ........................................................168Drikke ...................................................170Aktiviteter ............................................ 172Romantikk............................................173Kunst .................................................... 174For familier ...........................................176

00-title-contents-pk-flc3_NO.indd 5 08.12.14 11:03

01-quickstart-welcome-pk-flc3_NO.indd 6 08.12.14 11:39

Lynguide til Firenze og Toscana

Velkommen til Firenze og Toscana

Selv om Firenze er en overraskende liten by, er den tettpak ket med kulturattraksjoner og sjarm. Det føles som om middel alder gatene er fulle av legender, og museene og kirkene ruger på verdens største samling renessansekunst. I nærheten ligger flere like fristende reisemål, som Siena, Pisa, Chianti, San Gimignano og Lucca. Alle disse kan enkelt besøkes på en dagstur.

Høydepunkter ............................................................8

Lokalkjent ................................................................. 12

På fire dager ............................................................. 14

Verdt å vite ................................................................ 16

Kart: Firenze og Toscanas områder ....................... 18

Utsikt over FirenzePETER ADAMS/GETTY IMAGES ©

7

01-quickstart-welcome-pk-flc3_NO.indd 7 08.12.14 11:39

Galleria degli Uffizi (Uffizi-galleriet) (s. 30)Dette palazzo (palasset ) ble bygd av Mediciene og ligger ved elven Arno. Det er fylt til randen av mesterverk fra renessansen av store kunstnere som Giotto, Botticelli, Michelangelo, da Vinci, Rafael, Tizian og Caravaggio.

HøydepunkterFirenze og Toscana

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Duomo (s. 24)Duomo-ens (katedralen) mangefargede mar mor-fasade og smalnende campanile (klokketårn) er praktfulle, men det som virkelig gjør denne bygningen til noe helt spesielt er Filippo Brunelleschis enorme kup pel i rød teglstein – en av tidenes største arki-tek toniske prestasjoner.

Basilica di Santa Maria Novella (s. 50)Bak kirkens storslåtte fasade i grønn og hvit marmor venter eksep-sjonelle malerier, roman-tiske klosterganger og fire nydelig freskomalte kapeller.

Basilica di San Lorenzo (s. 66)Dette renessanse mester-verket var sogne kirke og mausoleum for Firenzes berømte slekts dynasti, Mediciene. Den ble teg-net av Brunelleschi. Mi-che lan gelo bidro til både bib lio teket ved siden av og Cappelle Medicee (Medici-kapellet), som er fylt av skulpturer.

HøydepunkterFirenze og Toscana

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Høydepunkter 9

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Museo del Bargello (s. 84)Overraskende nok ignorerer de fleste turistene dette museet, som ligger i byens eldste offentlige byg-ning. Her er Italias mest om fatten-de samling toskanske renessanse-skulpturer, med verk av blant andre Donatello og Michelangelo.

Palazzo Pitti (s. 100)Dette palasset drukner nesten i prakt, med kunst fra 1500- til 1700-tallet i Galleria Palatina og 1700- og 1800-tallskunst i Galleria d’Arte Moderna, for ikke å snakke om de stemningsfulle Giardino di Boboli (Boboli-hagene).

Galleria dell’Accademia (s. 64)Her befinner verdens mest berøm-te statue seg, Michelangelos David. Accademia rommer også hans gåtefulle og røren de Prigioni («Fangene» eller «Slavene») og en uferdig San Matteo (St. Matteus).

Palazzo Vecchio (s. 34)Dette befestede palasset fra mid-del alderen troner over byens mest stemnings fulle piazza. I sin tid bodde Mediciene her, men nå huser det kunst av Michelangelo, Vasari, Donatello og Bronzino.

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10 Høydepunkter10 Høydepunkter

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Basilica di Santa Croce (s. 86)Den praktfulle, nygotiske fasaden, gravene til fremtredende floren-tinere (som Dante og Galileo) og fresker av Giotto og elever fra hans skole, gjør dette til en av byens fremste kirker.

Opera della Metropolitana di Siena (s. 138)Denne klyngen kirkelige bygnin ger ligger rundt Sienas duomo, en av Italias viktigste gotiske kate draler. Den omfatter et museum, et dåps-kapell og en krypt. Alle er prydet med vakker kunst. (Duomo, Siena)

Museo Civico, Siena (s. 142)I et fantastisk gotisk palazzo, ved Sienas særpregede piazza Il Campo, ligger dette bymuseet. Det rommer en unik samling verdslige og reli-giøse fresker malt fra 1300- til 1800-tallet. (Freskodetalj, Simone Martini)

Piazza dei Miracoli, Pisa (s. 126)«Mirakelplassen» i Pisa er som et vid strakt, urbant teppe, med flere ut-søkte romanske bygninger i en klyn-ge. Det er en av Italias størs te turist-attrak sjoner. Gå opp i det berømte skjeve tårnet for å nyte prakten.

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Høydepunkter 11Høydepunkter 11

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Tips fra de som kjenner byen best JUL

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De 360 000 innbyggerne i Firenze har en kulturell livsstil som leves mot et historisk bakteppe, godt forankret i familien, kirken og maten. For å oppdage hva som gjør livet her så unikt, bør du dra til deres nabolag, kirker, kafeer og restauranter.

En dag i Fiesole (s. 80)

X Fabelaktig utsikt X Historiske bygninger

Denne fredelige lands­byen klamrer seg fast til ås sidene ovenfor Fi ren ze. Her møter de his toriske attraksjonene (et etruskisk tempel, romerske bad og teater, mid del alderkirker og renes sansevillaer) pano­rama utsikt og populære restauranter og barer. Resultatet er det perfekte reisemålet for en dagstur.

En natt på byen i Santa Croce (s. 88)

X Barer og klubber X En overflod av restauranter

Gå til de travle gatene som ligger rundt Piazza di Santa Croce og Piazza

Sant’Ambrogio. Der kan du spise, drikke og feste på florentinsk vis.

Firenzes hager (s. 104)

X Privateide hager X Kjempestore, offentlige

parkerI det historiske sentrum er plass luksus, og det er derfor lokalbefolk ningen er så lidenskapelig opptatt av parkene og hagene som brer seg utover åssidene sørøst for Ponte Vecchio. Tilbring en dag lengst mulig vekk fra museumskøene og slikk i deg solskinnet.

Kunsthåndverk­ernes by (s. 114)

X Kunsthåndverksteder X Designerboutiquer

Hvis de har muligheten til å velge, foretrekker Firenzes lokalbefolkning alltid å kjøpe varer pro­dusert av håndverkere eller kunsthåndverkere. Så det er bra at bydelen Oltrarno er full av flere generasjoner gamle, familie drevne botteghe (verksteder). Hver dag jobber de hardt for å sikre at merkevaren «Fiorentina» lever opp til sitt gode rykte. Det er et kvalitets kjennetegn kunder over hele verden anerkjenner.

LokalkjentFirenze og Toscana

12

03-local-life-pk-flc3_NO.indd 12 09.12.14 12:07

Tips fra de som kjenner byen best

Romersk amfiteater i Fiesole (s. 81)

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Kunstner i Oltrarno (s. 114)

De 360 000 innbyggerne i Firenze har en kulturell livsstil som leves mot et historisk bakteppe, godt forankret i familien, kirken og maten. For å oppdage hva som gjør livet her så unikt, bør du dra til deres nabolag, kirker, kafeer og restauranter.

Kunsthåndverk­ernes by (s. 114)

X Kunsthåndverksteder X Designerboutiquer

Hvis de har muligheten til å velge, foretrekker Firenzes lokalbefolkning alltid å kjøpe varer pro­dusert av håndverkere eller kunsthåndverkere. Så det er bra at bydelen Oltrarno er full av flere generasjoner gamle, familie drevne botteghe (verksteder). Hver dag jobber de hardt for å sikre at merkevaren «Fiorentina» lever opp til sitt gode rykte. Det er et kvalitets kjennetegn kunder over hele verden anerkjenner.

LokalkjentFirenze og Toscana

Andre fine steder å oppleve byen som en florentiner:

På markedet (s. 77)

Passeggiata (s. 40)

Gå i fengsel! (s. 96)

Innmatvogner (s. 43)

Piazza del Passera (s. 122)

Firenzes eldste parfymeri og apotek (s. 61)

Sommerens klubbliv (s. 111)

Florentinsk mote (s. 46)

En hemmelig hage (s. 72)

Gustapanino (s. 119)

Lokalkjent 13

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