PPT LASTING tameem.ppt

7/25/2019 PPT LASTING tameem.ppt

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INTRODUCTION

Lasting is a major operation of shoe makingprocess.

It changes a flat upper to a 3-dimensional shape.

This operation is further divided into 3 parts :

Lasting

Assembl Lasting !ottoming


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LAST

"eplica of human foot.

A foot model #ith almost same dimensions andshape as that of foot.

$ome e%tra material ma be added to suit thecurrent stle.

&.g. - 'ointed toe


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TYPES OF LAST

$(LI) !L(*+ LA$T

$TA,)A") I,&)

LA$T

$LI)&-(-/ATI* LA$T

$*((' LA$T


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TRADITIONAL LAST

/ade of hard#oods.

0sed to s#ell orshrink acc. totemperature.

$hoe #as difficult to

delast.(nce distorted cannot

be used again.

andmade #ithout

distinction for left andright.

MODERN LAST

/ade of plastics.

)urable #ith respectto the temperature.

1a% finish2 shoe canbe easil delasted.

445 recclable highdensit plastic.

*learl distinguishedleft and right foot last.


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LASTING

The process of

stretching upper over

the last and securing

it to the insole #iththe help of adhesive

is called lasting.


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LASTING

DIRECT

ATTACHMENT$tuck-on construction

/oulded construction

INDIRECT

ATTACHMENToodear #elted

$titched do#n


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TYPES OF LASTING

LA$TI, 0'

LA$TI, )(1,

6("*& LA$TI,

$T"I, LA$TI,


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*(/'(,&,T$

The pla a major role in the proper

lasting of shoe.

*omponents include:

. rinderies

7. Adhesives

3. Toe puffs8. *ounter stiffeners.


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METHODS OF LASTING

!9 "I,)&"I&$

!9 A)&$I&

!9 $T"I,


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Grinderies-Tacks 2 nails and

staples


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ADHESIVES

'ressure sensitive - neoprene

ot melt adhesive - polamide

eat activated adhesive - polurethane


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TOE PUFFS AND STIFFNERS

A stiff material used to give shape to the forepart andback part of the shoe.

Inserted bet#een lining and upper. "etains the shape of the last even after delasting. /a be flat or moulded. *an be solvent based or thermoplastic.

&nhance the appearance of the shoe.


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HAND LASTING PULLS

7 basic pulls to

contour upper to the

last.

Also kno#n asdrafting.

)one #ith the help of

3mm and ; mm

tacks.


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Lasting principes

Topline should be reasonabl tight andsnapp.

(uter


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6A0LT$


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T((L$


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TOOLS


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CONSTRUCTIONS

$ome specific

operations done in

order to attach the

sole to the lastedupper.

/a be simple

sticking or use of

some immediatecomponents like

#elt2etc.


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CONSTRUCTIONS

CEMENTED$T0*+ (,

STITCHED$A, *"I$'I,((()9&A" 1&LT&)

/A*+A9/(**A$I,

MOULDED

)I')'


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CONSTRUCTIONS


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INSOLE ATTACHING

'roperl mouldedinsole is attached to

the bottom of last2 b

the mean of tacks or

late%. Insole should be so

placed that it comes

in level #ith last

bottom 2just under the

featheredge.


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UPPER PREPARATION

Insole attachment

'lacing of toe puff

'lacing of counter stiffener

'asting of lining to the upper2 leaving no

#rinkles or air pockets open.

$titching of toe puff along #ith lining=upper. >machine lasting?


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SCOURING

"emoves the grain surface of the upper

revealing the flesh portion2 for adhesive

penetration.

"emoves the e%cess leather from forepart

and back part.

Also done to shape the heels.

Abrasives are used for scouring.


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TYPES OF ABRASIVES

Aluminium oxideReddish-brown

Silicon carbideBlack


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GROUPS OF A!RASIVES

C"#rse grit N"$ %& ' ()*Leaves a rough finish.

'leats in toe lasting

Medi#+ grit N"$ ,) - .%)*Leaves a rough finish.

$haping of heels.

Fine grit N"$ ./) ' %&)*Leaves a ver smooth finish.

$ole preparation prior to inking.


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A!RASIVES

Made Up O01-

!acking material

Adhesive bonding agent

rit >abrasive particles?

$i@ing agent >to hold grit in place?


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ROUGHING "aise the fibers of the scoured upper for proper

adhesion and solid bonding.

1ire brush is used for roughing.

TYPES OF SPI2E

STEEL/edium to heavier leather

*orrected grain leather

!RASS$oft and delicate leather

sheepgoat leather


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S"e preparati"n

3IPING

To clean sole from dirt

for better adhesion.

*an be done #ith

/&+.

&.g..B '0 2 '* soles

PRIMING

To chemicall activate

the surface for properbonding.

*an be done onl b

specific primers. &gg.- T'" soles.


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'lasticit and &lasticit are inherent properties of

leather #hich helps it to convert from a flat skin to 3-)

shoe. To smoothl #ork on this propert &AT

$&TTI, is done.

Leat4er. Te+perat#re$

$uede2 nubuck2pu coated. )r air at 74 B 34*

split2 most grain leather.

'0 patent2 '* coated. )r air at 44*6abrics.


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HEAT SETTING

)one to rela% the various lasting strains.

elps upper to retain the shape of the last.

TYPES OF HEAT SETTER

Infra red etter

Hig4 5e"cit6 air setter

Dr6 4eat setter


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INFRA RED SETTER

Infra red heat elements #ere used.)isadvantage B ver directional form of heat2

certain parts did not receive proper heat

treatment.

DRY HEAT SETTER

0sed onl for snthetic material.

,o moisture to soften the upper.


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HIGH VELOCITY AIR SETTER

igh air speed tpicall 7 B 8mtsec.

7 sections in cabinet.

st

section- hot moist air to soften upper.7ndsection- hot dr air to remove moisture

and set the shoe to last.

(ver all flo# of air.


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SOLE PRESS

Traditional tpe &nveloping bag

(f presses presses

)#ell time B 7 -C sec.

'ressure - C bars depending on the solematerial .

Less for softer material B T'"

/ore for harder material B Leather

CAR!ON PAPER TEST


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CAR!ON PAPER TEST

Lasted upper = sole is prepared

e%cluding adhesive.

. $ole

7. )otted rubber sheet

3. 1hite paper

8. *arbon paper

C. 1hite paper

D. Lasted upper

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PPT LASTING tameem.ppt