Emma Cheevers

Editor’s Letter

12

/globalblue/globalblue /globalblue@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

@GlobalBlue /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu

Athens and Thessaloniki

Austria

Austrian Alps

Barcelona

Belgium

Berlin

Buenos Aires

Cologne

Copenhagen

Cyprus

Чехия

Düsseldorf

Estonia

Frankfurt

French Riviera

دليل ألانيا德国指南

Руководство Германия

Gothenburg

Hamburg

Hanover

Helsinki Area

Holland

Iceland

Istanbul

Italy

Lake Saimaa

Lebanon

London

Madrid

Milan

Munich

Naples

Nuremburg

Oslo

Paris

Portugal

Prague

Riga

Rimini and Riccione

Rome

Seoul

Singapore

Stockholm

Stuttgart

Switzerland

Tokyo

Vienna

Vilnius ILL

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Welcome to London

Even if you’re familiar with London’s world-class fashion style, you may

be surprised to discover just how infuential the classic British trench

coat has been. Find out more in our feature on page 52. In this edition,

we also take an in-depth look at London’s status as the international

capital of design (page 58) and profle Anya Hindmarch, the city’s

accessories queen (page 64).

SHOP is part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader,

and publishes guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia.

Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell

you everything you need to know about your chosen destination: the top

global brands, the local favourites you shouldn’t miss and the essential

stores, boutiques, restaurants and places to visit.

For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. It’s even easier

to claim your tax savings with the Global Blue Card – signing up is

free and you can fnd all the details on the website. And don’t forget

to download the Global Blue mobile app!

With this edition of SHOP, the Global Blue app and your Global

Blue Card, you’re ready to enjoy the best that London has to ofer.

LONDON NEW YORK MILAN MUNICH MANCHESTER GLASGOW FLORENCE

DAVID BECKHAM

The Legend ContinuesBELSTAFF.COM

Contributors

14

globalblue.com

Kirsty Welsh

Chanel devotee Kirsty Welsh

is SHOP’s online managing

editor and boasts a handbag

collection as large as the list

of publications she has written

for. She is a former contributor

to Elle UK, Look magazine

and the Sunday Telegraph.

Josh Sims

Freelance journalist and

editor Josh Sims contributes to

publications that include the

Financial Times, Independent,

Observer, Wallpaper and

Esquire. His latest book, 50

Years of British Style Culture,

was published in 2012.

Stephen Doig

Stephen Doig, SHOP’s

features editor, is a also

a regular columnist for

the men’s section of the

Telegraph, a former Harper’s

Bazaar staf member and has

written for Vogue, GQ and

the Financial Times.

Lyndon Hayes

The infuences on Lyndon

Hayes’s beautiful paintings

include artist Peter Blake

and photographer Lee

Friedlander. Lyndon has

previously created illustrations

for the Observer, Time and

Wallpaper, among others,

and his work is regularly

exhibited in London galleries.

His intimate knowledge of

London made him the perfect

choice to illustrate the cover

of the city’s luxury edition of

SHOP this season. Inspired

by our feature on page 52, the

cover shows an elegant woman

wearing the Burberry trench

coat, a timeless wardrobe

staple, walking down a typical

London street.

Read more about our

illustrations at

globalblue.com/covers.

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Shop Floor

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Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the

information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury

or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue

PU BL I SH I NG

Publisher

James Morris

E DI TOR I A L

Editor-in-chief

Emma Cheevers

Managing editor

Sally McIlhone

Cover illustrator

Lyndon Hayes

Contributors

India Block, Josh Sims,

Frances Wasem

Production editor

Caterina Mazzolai

Assistant production editor

Ruairidh Pritchard

Features editor

Stephen Doig

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Contents

18

Above: The Sun, artist Dale Chihuly’s striking glass sculpture in Berkeley Square, illuminated at night

p.24

F e at u r e s

52 Cover Story: In Focus:

The Burberry Trench Coat

the Burberry trench coat is a long-

standing British outerwear classic and,

says stephen Doig, a national treasure

58 Top Of The World

London’s fourishing creative scene

is cementing the city’s position as the

international capital of design. Josh sims

picks the cream of the crop

64 Bags For Life

anya Hindmarch, one of London’s

favourite accessories designers, talks to

Frances Wasem about the evolution of

her brand

e x pe r i e nce

70 Table Talk

London’s restaurants ofer a wealth

of variety, from gourmet international

cuisine to refned restaurants centred

on high-quality British produce.

Verity Hogan reports

76 Stay In Style

sHOp’s guide to the world’s most

exclusive hotels

prODucts

22 Check Out

sHOp selects a standout piece

from London this season

24 My Favourites

Designer ethan K reveals his top tips

for autumn/winter 2014/15

26 Products

Key looks for the season, from fashion

and footwear to jewellery and accessories

32 Street Style

Our pick of the best dressed at London

Fashion Week

n e Ws

36 Shop Window

One store not to be missed in London

38 News

seasonal updates on shops, services

and new products

48 In Store …

… with Mei chung, head menswear buyer

at the expertly curated Browns boutique

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WELCOME TO OUR WORLD

SUPER AVENGER II

At the heart of the most extreme missions are the exceptional pilots

who experience daring feats on a daily basis and are prepared to

entrust their security only to the most high-performing instruments.

At the heart of the most extreme missions is the Breitling Avenger.

A concentrated blend of power, precision and functionality, Avenger

models boast an ultra-sturdy construction and water resistance

ranging from 300 to 3,000 meters. These authentic instruments for

professionals are equipped with selfwinding movements chronometer-

certifi ed by the COSC – the highest offi cial benchmark in terms of

reliability and precision. Welcome to the sphere of extremes. Welcome

to the Breitling world.

Contents

20

Online

English | Р ус ский | 中文

Follow the Global Blue editors

on the move for up-to-the-

minute shopping tips and

insider information.

/globalblue

/globalblue

/globalblue

@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

@GlobalBlue

/GlobalBlue

/GlobalBlueRu

GET SOCIALFASHION

COMPETITIONS

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The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

Gu i de

80 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas

of London, plus SHOP’s unique view of

the city’s sights

96 My City

Patrick Brown of Savile Row tailor e Tautz

shares his London recommendations

e SSe n T i a L S

100 How To Shop Tax Free

The simple steps to saving money

on your shopping

T R a nSL aT iOnS

106 Русский Перевод

112 美文翻译

117

SOu v e n i R

118 The essential item to bring home

Meisterstück HeritagePerpetual Calendarand Hugh Jackman

Crafted for New Heights

Featuring one of the most delicate complications in fi ne watchmaking, the Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage Perpetual Calendar will require no adjustments until the year 2100, so long as its self-winding Calibre MB 29.15 is kept suffi ciently wound. Housed in a 39 mm 18K red gold case, this refi ned timepiece truly promises to be a lifetime companion. Visit and shop at Montblanc.com

22 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 100

Check Out

Sarsat satellite system, guiding emergency

rescue services to their location, no matter

where they are in the world. The watch works

in the most extreme conditions, operating

faultlessly in temperatures ranging from 20

degrees below zero to a scorching 55 degrees

Celsius – and looks great while withstanding

extreme conditions. rp

Breitling Emergency

Night Mission watch, £13,570,

Breitling, 130 New Bond Street,

London W1S 2TA, +44 (0)20 7499 8596,

breitling.com

* for map go to page 85

TIME, SAVER

This season Swiss watchmaker Breitling has

unveiled the latest incarnation of a watch

that is not only the frst of its kind, but could

also save your life. The frst wristwatch with

an integrated personal locator beacon, the

Breitling Emergency, now available in black

titanium, is not only a beautifully crafted piece

of wristwear, but also a survival instrument for

even the most extreme adventures. Thanks to

the watch’s dual frequency microtransmitter,

the wearer can trigger an alert on the Cospas- PH

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LONDON HARRODS +44 207 7301234

194–195 SLOANE STREET +44 207 2459800

SCOTL AND GLENEAGLES HOTEL +44 1764 660440

24 | PRODUCTS

Designer Ethan K was born into a Singaporean family

with four generations in the exotic leather business.

He launched his eponymous label in 2009, expertly

using leather from his family’s tannery to create

beautiful handbags. He shares his tips about products

and places in London, where he recently opened

a space in Harrods, with Ximena Daneri

5. ‘The shoe is the second

home of a man, just as the bag

is for a woman. Bespoke is the

way forward and, of course,

we all love John Lobb’

John Lobb bespoke shoes, from

£3,440, John Lobb, 9 St James’s Street,

London SW1A 1EF,

+44 (0)20 7930 3664, johnlobbltd.co.uk

1. ‘I’m inspired by

contemporary artists such

as Dale Chihuly. You can

fnd his glass works in the

V&A and Berkeley Square

right now. He has a very

rich use of colour, and I’ve

been inspired by one of his

chandeliers recently’

The Sun 2014 by Dale Chihuly,

Berkeley Square, London W1,

chihuly.com

2. ‘One of my favourite bags

is the Alla, with its hedgehog

clasp. I love hedgehogs;

they are very nimble, they

are explorers’

Ethan K Harrods Alla bag with

18-carat dipped gold hedgehog

feature, £10,000,

Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road,

London SW1X 7XL,

+44 (0)20 7730 1234,

ethan-k.com

3. ‘Afternoon tea at Claridge’s

hotel is more than a product,

it’s an experience. I think in

today’s world experiences

are very important’

Claridge’s,

49 Brook Street, London W1K 4HR,

+44 (0)20 7629 8860,

claridges.co.uk

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My Favourites: ethan K

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 100

4. ‘M/Mink by Byredo is my

favourite fragrance. It smells

of ink but it’s very sensual at

the same time. I really value

unique products’

Byredo M Mink fragrance,

50ml, £88, Liberty, Regent Street,

London W1B 5AH,

+44 (0)20 7734 1234, byredo.com

1

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26 | PRODUCTS

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4. Pinko Camelia coat, £1,340,

Pinko, 161 Brompton Road,

London SW3 1QU,

+44 (0)20 7584 6524,

pinko.it

3. Caron crystal perfume amphora,

£470, Fortnum & Mason, 181 Piccadilly,

London W1A 1ER,

+44 (0)20 7734 8040,

parfumscaron.com

1. Mulberry Cara Delevingne

Collection backpack, £1,400,

Mulberry, 41-42 New Bond Street,

London W1S 2RY,

+44 (0)20 77491 3900, mulberry.com

2. Casadei leather biker boots, £950,

Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road,

London SW1X 7XL,

+44 (0)20 7730 1234, casadei.com

CITY LIVING

A cosy yet elegant jacket and some stylish fat

boots prepare you for a jaunt around London

1

2 3

4

28 | PRODUCTS

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1. Alexander McQueen Military De

Manta carryall, £745,

Alexander McQueen, 9 Savile Row,

London W1S 3PF,

+44 (0)20 7494 8840,

alexandermcqueen.com

2. Tod’s cashmere scarf, £255,

Tod’s, 2-5 Old Bond Street,

London W1S 4PE,

+44 (0)20 7493 2237, tods.com

3. Shamballa Jewels Laughing Skull

necklace, price on request,

Frost of London, 108 New Bond Street,

London W1S 1EF,

+44 (0)20 3372 0108,

shamballajewels.com

4. Canali leather gloves, £730,

Canali, 126-127 New Bond Street,

London W1S 1DZ,

+44 (0)20 7290 3500, canali.it

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DARK RIDER

Embrace biker style with black

leather and add an unexpected

touch with luxurious jewellery

1

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globalblue.com

SHOP | 29

5. Church’s umbrella, £300,

Church’s, 133 New Bond Street,

London W1S 2TE,

+44 (0)20 7493 1474,

church-footwear.com

6. Diesel L-Seddik leather jacket,

£710, Diesel, 43 Earlham Street,

London WC2H 9LX,

+44 (0)20 7497 5543, diesel.com

7. Bottega Veneta perfume, 50ml,

£50, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road,

London SW1X 7XL,

+44 (0)20 7730 1234,

bottegaveneta.com

8. Bally boots, £825,

Bally, 37 Brompton Road,

London SW3 1DE,

+44 (0)20 7491 7062,

bally.com

5 6

7 8

30 | PRODUCTS

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3. Hackett gloves, £195,

Hackett, 193-197 Regent Street,

London W1B 4LY,

+44 (0)20 7494 4917,

hackett.com

4. Ermenegildo Zegna Couture bag,

£2,165, Ermenegildo Zegna,

203 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9QX,

+44 (0)20 7201 7000, zegna.com

1. Boss boots, £350, Hugo Boss,

9 Carnaby Street, London W1F 9PE,

+44 (0)20 7851 9370,

hugoboss.com

2. Tom Ford belt, £490,

Tom Ford, 201-202 Sloane Street,

London SW1X 9QX,

+44 (0)20 3141 7800,

tomford.com

5. Burberry foral shirt, £350,

Burberry, 121 Regent Street,

London W1B 4TB,

+44 (0)20 7806 8904, burberry.com

MAN ABOUT

TOWN

Combine a sharp shirt with

sophisticated accessories and

you’re good to go

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32 | PRODUCTS

Street

Style

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Contrasting shapes

and textures added

an interest to

monochrome outfts

at London Fashion

Week and provided

a dose of spontaneity

and fun

globalblue.com

SHOP | 33

34 | PRODUCTS

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Street

Style

The sharpest male

dressers were found

of the catwalks at

London Fashion

Week. Tailoring

with a twist was

the order of the day,

with eye-catching

accessories providing

ofbeat elegance

globalblue.com

SHOP | 35

36 | NEWS

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 100

Shop Window

sprouts 30,000 glossy bronze rods, while the

central staircase spirals around a magnifcent

blue Murano glass chandelier. In the made-to-

order salon, Fendi master artisans are on hand

to personalise the iconic Peekaboo, Selleria and

Baguette handbags while customers further

explore the fur, accessories and watches rooms.

The lower-ground foor showcases the new

Fendi menswear concept; the complete product

range, comprising clothing, footwear and

accessories, is available in the store. gl

Fendi, 141 New Bond Street,

London W1S 2BS, +44 (0)20 7927 4172,

fendi.com

* for map go to page 85

FENDI’S BOND STREET BOUTIQUE

Fendi’s new fagship is now open on London’s

prestigious Bond Street. The three-storey

building dates back to the 19th century;

original brick walls have been left exposed,

complemented by gold and cream furnishings,

wooden parquet fooring and bespoke artworks,

creating an airy and inviting environment

for the brand’s full women’s ready-to-wear

and accessories collections. Fendi’s famous

Baguette bags are displayed against a wall that

TH E T O R U N B A N G L E

1 5 N E W B O N D S T R E E T L O N D O N W 1 S 3 S T — H A R R O D S 8 7 - 1 3 5 B R O M P T O N R O A D L O N D O N S W 1 X 7 X L

S E L F R I D G E S 4 0 0 O X F O R D S T R E E T L O N D O N W 1 A 1 A B

S E L F R I D G E S T H E T R A F F O R D C E N T R E 1 T H E D O M E M A N C H E S T E R M 1 7 8 D A

G E O R G J E N S E N . C O M 0 2 0 7 4 9 9 6 5 4 1

38 | NEWS

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LONDON SAYS HELLO TO HEDI

Despite initial controversy surrounding

his appointment as creative director, Hedi

Slimane has worked his magic at Saint Laurent,

introducing the long-established Parisian

fashion house to a new generation of fans.

Following the opening of Saint Laurent’s Paris

fagship last year, the brand has now opened

its London branch. Designed by Hedi Slimane

himself, the Sloane Street boutique follows the

same theme as the Paris store and is infuenced

by the art deco movement. Visitors can expect

a highly sophisticated monochrome colour

palette, minimal modernist furnishings and

plenty of marbled and mirrored surfaces.

The décor complements Slimane’s rock ‘n’

roll-inspired designs perfectly. irs

Saint Laurent,

171-172 Sloane Street, London SWIX 9QG,

+44 (0)20 7235 6706, ysl.com

* for map go to page 92

SHOP | 39

globalblue.com

ROCK ON, JOHN

For decades John Varvatos has been

redefning the rock-‘n’-roll menswear aesthetic.

The latest collection from the go-to brand for

tailoring with a rock edge sees mohair, checks

and shearling embellish standout pieces, while

purple, mauve and heather tones help to break

up the largely monochrome palette. This season

also sees the brand open its frst fagship store

outside the US, on London’s Conduit Street.

The largest John Varvatos store in the world,

the aesthetic is inspired by the label’s Maddison

Avenue boutique, which is refned and elegant.

The new boutique is also set to feature a live

music space showcasing the designer’s own

extensive rock memorabilia collection. rp

John Varvatos,

12-13 Conduit Street,

London W1S 2XQ,

johnvarvatos.com

* for map go to page 87

WATCH THIS SPACE

Watches of Switzerland has opened

a new fagship store in London. Occupying

a prominent 17,000-square-foot space on

Regent Street, the three-foor store ofers

a vast collection from over 20 of the world’s

most renowned watchmakers and is the largest

timepiece showroom in Europe. A staircase

sculpted from metal, glass and marble is the

centrepiece of this luxurious, contemporary

space, where 12 interior boutiques, dedicated

to leading brands such as Rolex, Patek Philippe,

Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre, create intimate

areas for browsing. Highly trained staf ofer

expert guidance. State-of-the-art technology

is installed throughout the space, while an

interactive video screen in the Calibre Room

takes customers on a visual journey through

the history of Watches of Switzerland. gl

Watches of Switzerland,

155 Regent Street, London W1B 4AD,

+44 (0)20 7534 9810,

watches-of-switzerland.co.uk

* for map go to page 88

40 | NEWS

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BELLES OF THE BALL

This autumn/winter, luxury department

store Harvey Nichols adds to its expertly

curated collection of designer wares with the

introduction of Noir by husband and wife

design team Sachin & Babi. The couple met

while studying fashion in New York and

became popular with some of the world’s most

revered design houses for their elaborate textile

creations, which feature handcrafted details

and embroideries. The Noir line focuses on

modern eveningwear for women and ofers

a selection of distinctive dresses, full skirts

and bodices in an exciting array of prints,

colours and styles to suit all body types. For

elegant ball gowns and red carpet glamour, an

ensemble from Noir by Sachin & Babi is sure

to make you stand out. gl

Harvey Nichols,

109-125 Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7RJ,

+44 (0)20 7235 5000, harveynichols.com

* for map go to page 91

ROKSANDA OPENS ON MOUNT STREET

Mayfair’s Mount Street is fast becoming

London’s new luxury shopping hot spot, as a

host of exciting fashion brands set up store.

Joining the likes of Céline, Nicholas Kirkwood

and Gianvito Rossi, Roksanda Ilincic has

chosen the stylish street as the location for

her debut standalone store. The British-based

designer, who has recently rebranded her label

as simply Roksanda, has won acclaim for her

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brightly coloured, boldly feminine designs.

The store’s interior design was created in

collaboration with architect David Adjaye

and showcases the colourful clothing creations

against a backdrop of soft and speckled grey

concrete walls, punctuated with glints of

golden shelving. Zigzag marble fooring and

glossy pink counter-top blocks add a quirky,

fun element to the space, which the designer

describes as an extension of her dresses. gl

Roksanda, 9 Mount Street,

London W1K 3NG, +44 (0)20 7613 6499,

roksanda.com * for map go to page 84

42 | NEWS

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 100

ENGLISH CHARM

In 1980, British designer Graeme Ellisdon

founded Osprey London with a small collection

of handmade leather belts. The beautifully

crafted creations gained the attention of

some of London’s most prestigious retailers,

and before long the brand expanded to ofer

leather bags and accessories for both men and

women. Today the brand ofers an eclectic

collection of clothing, homeware, taxidermy,

fragrances and candles, crafted from high-

quality natural materials sourced from

around the world. Ellisdon, whose father was

a carpenter, enjoys working with raw, natural

materials and transforming them into beautiful,

durable objects. Discover the Osprey London

collections at the recently opened fagship on

Regent Street. The store has a wonderful air

of English eccentricity and charm, with objects

and curiosities to be discovered in every corner.

There is a complimentary gift-wrapping

service, and you can enjoy the great British

tradition of tea and cake at the in-store café

while you wait. gl

Osprey London, 27 Regent Street,

London SW1Y 4NQ,

+44 (0)7927 650111,

ospreylondon.com

* for map go to page 90

STEP OUT WITH PINET

Retaining the charm of an old-school

Parisian cobbler, the Pinet boutique occupies

a prominent corner of New Bond Street and

ofers a carefully considered collection of

luxury leather handbags and footwear for both

men and women. The international selection

of brands available includes Stuart Weitzman

from New York, Moreschi from Italy and

Barker Black from Britain. Visit the store

to discover beautifully crafted leather shoes

and accessories to suit all occasions. gl

Pinet, 47-48 New Bond Street,

London W1S 1DJ,

+44 (0)20 7629 2174

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globalblue.com

SHOP THE WORLD

Using our wealth of insider knowledge,

we have created a smartphone app

to help you to plan your trip. The app

gives information on 45 cities in 22

countries – thousands of stores are

listed and located on maps, with full

contact details and a description of

what each store sells. Our maps guide

you right to the store and can also be

downloaded for offline use enabling

you to create your own itinerary. You

can also sign up for the Global Blue

Card and, once you’re logged in the My

Tax Refund wallet becomes available,

allowing you to track pending refunds.

The app is available in Chinese, English

and Russian, and includes a Tax Refund

Calculator to tell you how much you’ll

save on every purchase you make in

every different country you visit. There

are also instructions on how to use

Currency Choice, our service that

allows you to pay in your home currency.

globalblue.com

Download the Global Blue guide

from the App Store or Play Store

LONGCHAMP’S NEW LOOK

Founded in Paris in 1948,

Longchamp has become one

of the world’s most popular

handbag brands. Its Le Pliage

shopping tote is considered

a wardrobe staple for its

lightweight yet durable design,

and is available in an ever-

increasing array of colours

and fnishes. Discover the full

range of Longchamp handbag

collections, alongside men’s

and women’s clothing, luggage

and accessories, at the newly

refurbished boutique on New

Bond Street. Brightly coloured,

kaleidoscopic feature walls and

an airy environment make for a

delightfully uplifting shopping

experience, with three storeys

to explore. gl

Longchamp,

28 New Bond Street,

London W1S 2RJ,

+44 (0)20 7493 5515,

longchamp.com

* for map go to page 85

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CLASSICS REBORN

Lovers of quintessential

British style often herald Paul

Smith as the epitome of cool

English design. Now fans

of the label can extend his

designs from their wardrobes

into their living rooms, as

the designer has announced

his collaboration with textile

manufacturer Maharam

and furniture company Carl

Hansen & Søn, to celebrate

the hundredth anniversary of

the birth of celebrated Danish

furniture designer Hans J

Wegner. The collaboration

sees some of Wegner’s

classic designs, including

the Wishbone chair, with its

innovative Y-shaped back,

and the three-legged Shell

chair, re-imagined in a range

of Paul Smith striped textiles,

creating a wonderful marriage

of quirky British style with

minimalist Danish design. rp

Paul Smith,

9 Albemarle Street,

London W1S 4BL,

+44 (0)20 7493 4565,

paulsmith.co.uk

* for map go to page 87

EVERYDAY LUXURY

Handmade shoes, while

undoubtedly a luxurious

addition to any man’s

wardrobe, are almost always

restricted to formal attire.

However, London shoe brand

Carréducker is bucking the

trend at historic Savile Row

tailor Gieves & Hawkes.

Founders James Ducker and

Deborah Carré have created

a range of shoes designed

to work with any man’s

wardrobe, and even ofer a

bespoke service to work with

customers to create their

perfect pair of shoes. Choose

from a range of contemporary

styles, from chukka boots to

penny loafers, in a variety

of hand-stitched leathers,

including English oak-bark

tanned leather and German

box calf hide, alongside more

exotic lizard, snakeskin,

crocodile and perch. rp

Carréducker at

Gieves & Hawkes,

1 Savile Row,

London W1S 3JR,

+44 (0)20 7432 6428,

carreducker.com

* for map go to page 87

MANHATTAN COOL

Founded in a Manhattan

loft in 1941, New York brand

Coach originally specialised

in small, beautifully crafted

leather goods. Over the years

its oferings have expanded to

include fragrances, watches,

outerwear, luggage and much

more. This season’s ready-to-

wear collection, the frst from

acclaimed British accessories

designer Stuart Vevers, features

a palette of rich autumnal

colours that complement

relaxed silhouettes. Inspired by

American heritage and modern

Manhattan cool, the range is

a relaxed take on sporty style.

Paired with accessories in black

leather, it ofers a youthful,

modern approach to luxury. hl

Coach,

41-42 New Bond Street,

London W1S 2RY,

+44 (0)20 3141 8901,

coach.com

* for map go to page 85

globalblue.com

A DV E RTOR I A L | 45

Selfridges

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complete with foor-to-ceiling library. Designed by architect Alex Cochrane, the department has the look and feel of an exclusive gentlemen’s club and displays works by world-renowned artists, including a piece by Damien Hirst.

Although Selfridges’ Men’s Personal Shopping is frst and foremost a fashion-focused ofer, it also enables customers to purchase gifts, fne jewellery and watches, grooming products and other goods from all six foors of the London store.

The new Men’s Personal Shopping department joins Selfridges’ Everyman cinema – a new in-store movie theatre showing a variety of cinematic classics, new releases and fashion flms – in reafrming why the famous store has been voted the world’s best department store three times consecutively. Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)113 369 8040 (international), selfridges.com

* for map go to page 84

MENSWEAR MADE PERSONAL

After recently expanding and revamping its world-class menswear department, Selfridges has unveiled a new and unparalleled shopping service designed especially for the male customer in search of a truly personalised shopping experience.

Selfridges’ menswear department has the most comprehensive selection of any department store in the world, from formal attire and contemporary fashion apparel to footwear and accessories. The new fve-star service allows customers to shop the fabulous ofer using the expertise and advice of a dedicated personal shopper.

The store’s new Men’s Personal Shopping department, laid out over 120 square metres, comprises three elegant private suites, a reception area and a stylish salon space

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For retail enquiries call +44 (0)20 7225 5203

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 100

In Store: Browns

48 | N E WS

In 1970, Joan and Sidney Burstein opened the fashion-forward multibrand boutique Browns on South Molton Street. The venture grew rapidly, expanding into four adjacent Georgian townhouses by 1979. Joan Burstein, afectionately known as Mrs B, has been instrumental in introducing exciting new fashion brands to the UK, including Missoni, Donna Karan and Comme des Garçons. The Browns menswear division, opened in 1976, ofers one of the most expertly curated selections available anywhere in the world. Head menswear buyer Mei Chung takes Ximena Daneri on a tour of the boutique and shares some of her hot tips for the best new season buys

‘I’ve been working for Browns for almost 14 years now. The DNA of Browns is what frst attracted me to the company. Mrs B was the frst to believe and support unknown names, discovering new talent and new designers. It’s special to be a part of this story, championing new talent and discovering beautiful products. A lot of my job involves working closely with designers and even students, to develop their pieces and take them to the next level.

‘Our customers are a beautiful mix! They have colourful backgrounds and range from students to artists, celebrities to entrepreneurs. After 14 years, I have many memories, but confdentiality with clients means that what happens in menswear stays in menswear!

‘The store is like your own personal space; it’s like coming home and stepping into your own wardrobe. It’s a comfortable and stylish place to shop and hang out. As you come in, on the staircase, you will see a small and very intimate art gallery wall. We use fashion as a platform to showcase underground artists who have a very niche following.

‘There is no set layout. We create weekly new concepts with the pieces that come in, so the store always has a diferent angle. Lots of people don’t know that there are two beautiful rooms upstairs, so my favourite part of the design is the spiral staircase leading you to what may be hiding at the top.

‘Our latest exclusive is by one of Britain’s most-loved young designers, James Long. He has created a small collection of exclusive bags just for Browns, featured on his spring/summer 2015 runway show, that we made available to buy straight from the catwalk.

‘There’s no rigid process or set of rules to menswear buying. However, a clear understanding of your store, knowledge of your current clientele and establishing new clients around the world will lead to new discoveries.

‘My top pick for autumn/winter 2014/15 is the Raf Simons x Sterling Ruby collaboration: it’s wearable art! Look out for Saint Laurent, especially the beautiful striped, sequinned evening jacket. Haider Ackermann has made beautiful unstructured evening jackets in jacquard print. Hood By Air is the best urban streetwear of the season. New and exclusive to Browns is Cedric Jacquemyn, a Belgian designer and Antwerp graduate who specialises in beautiful washed vintage fabrics.

‘When it comes to trends, I’m seeing a rise in denim, which is now appearing in formal and structured pieces. Also, jacquard lurex fabrics in jackets and pants, and loads of Neoprene, especially in jackets and in sweatshirts.’Browns, 24-27 South Molton Street, London W1K 5RD, +44 (0)20 7514 0016, brownsfashion.com

* for map go to page 84

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SHOP | 53

The Burberry Trench Coat

The Burberry trench coat is a long-standing British outerwear classic and, says Stephen Doig, a national treasure

In FoCus:

54 | FEATURES

Previous: the Kensington Burberry Heritage trench coat

There are few sartorial sights as quintessentially

British as that of a handsome, impeccably

made Burberry trench coat protecting its

owner against the drizzle of a London winter

– perhaps when he or she is making a dash up

the regency splendour of Regent Street. This

classic piece of clothing is woven into the fabric

of British history and culture, has played a part

in some of the country’s most pivotal moments

and supports a British manufacturing industry

that keeps communities alive. The trench coat

has appeared in various reincarnations under

current Burberry creative director Christopher

Bailey – nipped, tucked and reworked with

beads, fringing, see-through fabrics and

painterly splashes – but it has remained

a solid style investment for over 100 years.

The trench has sheltered some impressively

iconic fgures, from Humphrey Bogart and

Winston Churchill to Audrey Hepburn and

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SHOP | 55

Above (clockwise from lef): company founder Thomas Burberry; the Tielocken coat was patented by Thomas Burberry in 1912; the Westminster Burberry Heritage trench coat for women; the Westminster for men

56 | FEATURES

Above (from top): Thomas Burberry designed clothing to protect against the unpredictable British weather; gabardine, the breathable, weatherproof cloth that revolutionised rainwear; Burberry advertisement for the coats available at the London Haymarket store, 1934

When you slip on a Burberry trench coat you’re wearing a piece of British history and craft expertise

Diana, the late Princess of Wales, and is an

enduring part of both Burberry’s and Britain’s

style history. In 1856 Thomas Burberry, a

draper’s apprentice, set about launching an

outdoor clothing company and found his

clothes swiftly enlisted for military purposes.

In 1912, Burberry patented a long coat called

the Tielocken, which would later go on to be

called the trench coat, designed to protect

army and naval ofcers against Britain’s harsh

weather. These ofcers carried on wearing the

coat of-duty. Stylistic adjustments were made

to suit its military purpose – epaulettes were

added to carry military badges and, according

to fashion folklore, military items were attached

to the D-shaped belt buckle.

The Burberry trench is unique because

of the fabric innovation at its heart. Thomas

Burberry is credited with the invention of

gabardine, the tightly woven cloth that the

trench was traditionally made from. Until

SHOP | 57

Above (from top): crafing the Burberry Heritage trench coat; Burberry’s archives are full of images, such as this one, that show the company’s rich heritage

handcut and handcrafted; the line of the back

pleat remains the same as it did when the coat

was worn for horse riding, to allow movement

and ventilation.

Whether you choose classic caramel

with Burberry’s instantly recognisable

checked lining or a high-shine metallic

version, when you slip on a Burberry trench

coat you’re wearing a piece of British history

and craft expertise

burberry.com

gabardine appeared, fabrics had to be waxed

or rubberised to repel water, making them

heavy and ungainly. By increasing density and

thread count, Burberry created a fabric that

allowed ventilation but was robust enough to

repel water – a new direction for outerwear.

As well as outftting British people for

generations, the trench has also kept many

skilled workers in employment in the UK.

Burberry trench coats are made in Castleford

in the north of England, by craftspeople

who combine traditional skills with modern

technology. The gabardine fabric is woven

here, checked by eye to ensure that the cloth

is fawless. It takes around three weeks to

make one coat, with over 100 steps involved.

One trench coat collar is so complex that

craftsmen must train for a year to learn how

to stitch this piece alone, to ensure it sits on

the neck in a fuid, easy manner. The back

pleat and detailing of the cufs and straps are

Opposite: Double Space for BMW by Edward Barber and Jay Osgerby for London Design Festival 2014

/107 112117

TopLondon’s fourishing creative scene, from established stars to bright contemporary talents to the future names to watch, is cementing the city’s position as the international capital of design. Josh Sims picks the cream of the crop

world

of theWhen product designer Chris Holden

fnished his studies in the UK’s north-

east, he knew there was one place he had

to go to in order to co-found his modernist

accessories company Ajoto. ‘London,’ he says.

‘We make products all over the UK but you

have to have a presence in London. It’s the

world’s showroom for design now. And as

such there’s no room for mediocrity there.

It has that competitive climate.’

Indeed, two years ago a design critic

from The New York Times announced that

London had trumped New York as the global

creative hub. That critic had a strong case,

given London’s acclaimed art and design

schools and the ever-rising reputation of its

already internationally noted design shows,

which range from the 200 events of the London

Design Festival to more local fairs such as the

recent Clerkenwell Design Week. The city’s

geographic position mid-way between the US

and Asia appeals to big business in general and

also means that design mavens from across the

globe beat a path there. Even its history counts.

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Above (clockwise from top): a selection of Ajoto pen designs; architect and designer Zaha Hadid; Tom Dixon Cog candelabra

‘As a visitor to London you can’t not see its

diversity of design, in the products on its shelves,

in its interior design, in its architecture which

runs from Georgian via art deco to modernism,’

says Holden. ‘Florence is beautiful but it’s non-

stop Renaissance.’

Recent history has had a big impact, too.

London has fostered infuential homegrown

design talents, and, in addition to its many

noted fashion designers are fgures such as

Terence Conran, who revolutionised interior

design and retail through the 1960s and

70s. Habitat, which he founded, celebrates

its 50th anniversary this year, and his latest

book, Plain Simple Useful, refects his practical

design theories.

The 80s and 90s saw the rise of designers

Tom Dixon, Ron Arad and Ross Lovegrove,

who pioneered new industrial and organic

aesthetics, and London, in turn, attracted star

names from abroad to base themselves in the

city, including Marc Newson and Zaha Hadid.

Perhaps a certain quirky contrariness

pervades London design as much as it is said

to pervade the city’s fashion. Arad and Dixon,

for example, were both self-taught. ‘Often it’s

better when you have less knowledge, when

you’re under-informed. Then you don’t try

to work as the experts do, or do whatever has

already been done. You can come at it with

childlike enthusiasm,’ explains Dixon, whose

latest work includes a clothing line for Adidas.

‘I’m not very good at doing what I’m

supposed to do,’ says Arad, ‘and I get away

with it – sometimes.’ He cites one commission

to design a chair using invisible glue to bond

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62 | FEATURES

Above (clockwise from lef): Yoo Home lifestyle collection; Rolf Sachs furniture design; designer Rolf Sachs; Lee Broom Decanterlights

together layers of Corian. He decided to colour

the glue so it showed up like seams of coal

through rock. The result is, of course, a much

more interesting chair. For another commission

he designed a bicycle whose wheels had no tyres

but were made out of multiple loops of sprung

steel. When it was cited as more an art piece

than a functional means of transport he made

a video of it being ridden through London.

More recently still, designers such as

Thomas Heatherwick and Barber Osgerby

have risen to prominence. Yoo, the company

founded by John Hitchcox of open-plan living,

Manhattan Loft Company fame, has worked

with young talents Russell Sage and Bethan

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‘Pop-up stores and satellite shows have proved important showcases for new talent’ – Lee Broom, designer

Gray to launch Yoo Home this summer. It will

be Harrods’ biggest single brand shop-in-shop.

‘People coming to London regularly will

have noticed how much it has changed over

the last decade – it has evolved,’ says interior

products designer Lee Broom, who launched

his own business six years ago. ‘Having a mayor

has really helped drive forward design fairs and

new architecture, as controversial as that can

be. And the recession has encouraged pop-up

stores and satellite shows that have proved

important showcases for new design talent.’

According to the designer and artist Rolf

Sachs, who relocated to London 20 years ago

this year, the design culture in the city has

had an all-pervading infuence. ‘You can see

the infuence spreading in line with London’s

importance in contemporary art now, too,’ he

says. ‘It means the awareness of a need for good

design is much greater now – not just in what’s

for sale, but in bars, restaurants and hotels.

There’s this growing competition in design

all around the capital. And those who look

for it can be endlessly fascinated.’

ajoto.com, conran.com, tomdixon.net,

ronarad.co.uk, rosslovegrove.com,

marc-newson.com, zaha-hadid.com,

heatherwick.com, barberosgerby.com,

yoo.com, homebyyoo.com, leebroom.com,

rolfsachs.com

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Anya Hindmarch, one of London’s favourite accessories designers, produces bags that are beautifully crafted and often devised with great wit. She talks to Frances Wasem about the evolution of her brand

Bags for life

Above (from lef): Swan and Vesta Maxi Featherweight Ebury bag; Cornfakes Maxi Featherweight Ebury bag, both Anya Hindmarch autumn/winter 2014/15

There are few fashion titans who can command

a global business empire at the same time as

making quips and ofering tips with the warmth

of a friend. But accessories designer Anya

Hindmarch is one of a kind. She combines

various quintessentially British characteristics:

she’s understated (‘I prefer my clothes not to

shout,’ she says); she has a self-deprecating

manner; and she is endowed with a very lively,

creative spark. She also has a fervent passion

for design; most specifcally, she cares deeply

about the craftsmanship that goes into her

accessories. ‘If you fnd the perfect craftsman,

a bag will sing,’ says Hindmarch, who has

been in the fashion industry for 26 years now.

It’s an ideology that makes her bags highly

covetable – this in an industry where bags

jostle for shelf space and where for a long time

the ‘It’ bag, with strident logos, ruled. ‘I’m not

obsessed by designer names,’ says Hindmarch,

who designs her bags at her brick-walled studio

in the heart of London’s Bermondsey. ‘I am,

though, obsessed by craftsmanship.’ That

obsession led Hindmarch to Italy, where most

of her bags are now made. Her attention to

detail is legendary. The bespoke bags take her

craftsmen a day to produce. She has pockets for

mobiles and pens. She uses butter-soft leather,

shagreen inlays and even costume jewels as

part of her designs. ‘I love working with old-

SHOP | 67

Above (from top): designer Anya Hindmarch; Anya Hindmarch I’m Not A Plastic Bag shopping bags

fashioned techniques, but interpreting them

in a modern way,’ she says.

Hindmarch was brought up in Essex, to

the north-east of London. Her love afair with

accessories started young, when, aged 16, she

was given her mother’s cast-of Gucci bag.

The bag (along with her mother’s wardrobe)

has been a major design infuence. ‘I think

design is subliminal. I remember my mother

in the 70s. She was a fashion individual. I

vividly remember the moment when she gave

me that old Gucci handbag. I remember the

excitement, and how a bag can make you feel.’

Hindmarch launched her business shortly

after that, at the tender age of 19. She started

by placing an advert in Harpers & Queen (now

Harper’s Bazaar), then ploughed the £7,000

sales straight back into the business, and Anya

Hindmarch the label came into being. In 1993

Hindmarch opened her frst store in Chelsea.

Over the years she has manoeuvred some clever

marketing coups that have increased the label’s

global audience. These include the famous

2007 ‘I’m not a plastic bag’ ethical slogan that

changed the way we shop in supermarkets;

the witty Fashion Week Survival Kit bags

(flled with headache pills, water, candy and

Band-Aids) that are sent to fashion editors

before fashion weeks start; and the launch

of a bespoke service in 2009. Of the latter,

Hindmarch remarks that ‘people have become

disconnected from how things are made, and

actually that’s the interesting part. Real luxury

is about understanding how something is made

specifcally to your requirements.’

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Above (from top): Anya Hindmarch boutique, Sloane Street; Anya Hindmarch Coco Pops Imperial clutch, autumn/winter 2014/15

Today Anya Hindmarch is a modern, global luxury brand, albeit with a cottage-industry spirit – Hindmarch’s team has been with her for years and is deeply loyal. Her most famous clients include the Duchess of Cambridge, Kate Moss, Angelina Jolie, Cara Delevingne and Caroline Issa. She works alongside her husband James Seymour, who is fnance director of the company, which has close to 60 shops worldwide; last August Hindmarch opened a fagship store in Manhattan. Clearly, she is a much-respected businesswoman: in 2001 she was declared accessory designer of the year at the British Fashion Council awards; she received an MBE in 2009; and in 2012 Veuve Clicquot named her businesswoman of the year. She is a trustee of the Design Museum and the Royal Academy. She is also a UK trade ambassador, appointed by Prime Minister David Cameron.

Business accolades aside, a key part of her brand is her sense of humour. Her frst catwalk show, in 2012, featured the fabulous Quality Street collection with bags designed to look like old-fashioned British Quality Street sweets and chocolates. The autumn/winter 2014/15

Above (from lef): Caroline Issa carries an Anya Hindmarch Crisp Packet clutch; the Crisp Packet clutch, autumn/winter 2014/15

SHOP | 69

Her many business accolades aside, a key part of Anya Hindmarch’s brand is her sense of humour

collection combines the everyday with a sense of high luxury and includes a Kellogg’s Coco Pops clutch, a chain bag shaped like a crisp packet and a Swan Vestas matchbox bag.

Part of the success of Hindmarch’s so-called cottage-industry success has to be its London base. What does she think makes London so special? ‘It’s an incredibly exciting hub of creativity, that translates globally,’ explains Hindmarch. ‘London designers take risks. And actually it’s this risk-taking and sense of adventure that probably contributes to success. So many of our talented designers either set up their own label very young or work for some of the most prestigious houses globally – so our exports are something we are incredibly proud of.’

And London is proud of her too, for putting the city’s accessories scene frmly on the map with bags that are admired across the globe. As I leave Hindmarch’s house, a slogan emblazoned on the wall catches my eye: ‘everybody needs a handbag’. Perhaps that should read ‘everybody needs an Anya Hindmarch handbag’anyahindmarch.com

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Table TalkLondon’s restaurant scene ofers a wealth of variety, from gourmet international cuisine to refned restaurants centred on high-quality British produce. Verity Hogan dines at a selection of the capital’s best

London’s restaurant scene has undergone a culinary revolution in recent years. The capital’s restaurants once had a reputation for being bland and boring but now London’s hottest eateries are refned and edgy, on a par with the city’s thriving art and fashion scenes.

Traditional British cuisine is defned by simple ingredients and favours, with lamb, beef, pork, chicken or fsh used as the basis for a meal, accompanied by a potato-based side dish and vegetables. However, London’s multicultural diversity has also made an impact on the city’s restaurants with international favours from India, Asia and continental Europe all afecting the cuisine on ofer.

Today, London’s fnest restaurants combine imagination, modesty and integrity within their sleek dining rooms. Imaginative chefs are fnding ever more interesting ways to attract an increasingly sophisticated and knowledgeable customer base, while the city’s contemporary cuisine is gaining international acclaim.

70 | E X PE R I E NCE

SHOP | 71

P Av I L I O N

Chef Adam Simmonds is known for presenting deceptively simple dishes with intense favours and his kitchen at Pavilion does not disappoint. The menu makes use of seasonal British produce while the in-house delicatessen ofers a range of cheese, charcuterie and patisserie options to eat in or take away. Typical dishes might include roast lamb cutlets with smoked aubergine purée, poached halibut in a trufe beurre blanc, and whole lobster salad with octopus, watermelon and fennel.Pavilion, 96 Kensington High Street, London W8 4SG, +44 (0)20 7221 2000, kensingtonpavilion.comP

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72 | EXPER IENCE

globalblue.com

F i s c h e r ’ s

classic Viennese café Fischer’s brings Austria’s

distinctive cuisine to the heart of west London.

The restaurant ofers an all-day menu of classic

cuisine, including cured fsh, salads, schnitzels,

sausages and brötchen. Traditional schnitzels,

braised beef tafelspitz and lamb goulash are

accompanied by a selection of wines from

Austria, Germany and hungary. The dining

room emanates heritage appeal despite

its recent opening; tiled fooring, wooden

furnishings and artistically distressed hand-

painted wallpaper add character to the space.

Fischer’s, 50 Marylebone high street,

London W1U 5hN, +44 (0)20 7466 5501,

fschers.co.uk

T y p i N G r o o M

east London’s latest hotspot, Typing room

showcases chef Lee Westcott’s creative

modern european cuisine in an appropriately

stylish space. The well-edited menu ofers just

fve snacks, starters and mains each evening

and makes the most of natural favours while

incorporating infuences from New Nordic

cuisine and Westcott’s mentors Tom Aikens

and Jason Atherton. Menu highlights include

pigeon smoked in pine with salt-baked

celeriac, lovage and hazelnut and lamb served

with smoked beetroot, turnip, horseradish

and sorrel.

Typing Room,

Town hall hotel, patriot square,

London e2 9NF, +44 (0)20 7871 0461,

typingroom.com

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74 | EXPER IENCE

globalblue.com

C i n n a m o n S o h o

The younger, cheekier sibling of the Cinnamon

group, Cinnamon Soho presents a menu of

modern indian cuisine that nods to British

traditions. Executive chef Vivek Singh balances

favours perfectly in dishes such as seared

sea bass with an aubergine and potato crush,

smoked saddle of lamb with spiced onion

gravy, and ox cheek vindaloo. The restaurant’s

most famous dishes are also some of its most

unusual; options include Bangla Scotch eggs

and pies flled with exotic Keralan seafood

or rogan josh.

Cinnamon Soho, 5 Kingly Street,

London W1B 5PF, +44 (0)20 7437 1664,

cinnamonsoho.com

Q u a g L i n o ’ S

Quaglino’s, one of London’s most renowned

restaurants, has re-opened with a new menu

and beautifully restored art deco interior. a

host of original features, including its sweeping

staircase, have been preserved, while a new

cocktail bar and stage to host live performances

add a modern edge. new executive chef

mickael Weiss has devised a contemporary

European menu; expect classic dishes infused

with exotic favours and spices. Typical options

include lamb with spiced spinach, and cod with

a vegetable and safron cassoulet.

Quaglino’s, 16 Bury Street,

London SW1Y 6aJ, +44 (0)20 7930 6767,

quaglinos-restaurant.co.uk

m a r a n i

marani’s dining room is designed to emulate

a typical drawing room in georgia, with

patterned wallpaper, wooden furnishings and

rich ornamentation. The food is based on

traditional georgian cuisine and features an

array of specialities such as delicious cheese-

flled khachapuri bread and pkhali: leeks,

aubergine and spinach poached with walnuts

and pomegranate seeds. Designed for sharing,

the hearty home-cooked dishes at marani are

sure to leave diners feeling fully satisfed.

Marani, 54 Curzon Street, London W1J 8Pg,

+44 (0)20 7495 1260,

maranilondon.co.uk PH

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porsche design

Porsche Design London | 59 Brompton Road | London SW3 1DP | +44 [ 0 ] 20 7581 4442

Porsche Design Harrods | 87–135 Brompton Road | London SW 1X7XL | +44 [ 0 ] 20 78938878

www.porsche-design.com/store-locator

globalblue.com

The world’s fnest hotels have locations in the most sought-after city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities ranging from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spa facilities ofering state-of-the-art treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best

stay in style

76 | E X PE R I E NCE

riot of colour to complement the lake views, and there are three swimming pools and an outdoor tennis court for guests to enjoy. A team of dedicated staf is on hand to ensure a smooth stay; be sure to try some local cuisine at the hotel’s gourmet restaurant before relaxing in the well-appointed spa.Grand Hotel Tremezzo, Via Regina 8, 22019 Tremezzo, +39 034 442491, grandhoteltremezzo.com

Grand Hotel tremezzo

An authentic art nouveau palace on the shores of Lake Como, the elegant Grand Hotel Tremezzo refects the period throughout its interior décor, while each of its 83 bedrooms takes design inspiration from the hotel’s exquisitely manicured gardens. The lush parkland surrounding the property ofers a

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SHOP | 77

the décor features precious marble, ornate frescoes and majestic chandeliers. Its location in Cannaregio puts it close to the centre of Venice, but far enough away to give visitors a taste of real life in this romantic city. Boscolo Venezia, Fondamenta Madonna Dell’Orto, Cannaregio 3500, 30121 Venice, +39 041 220 8111, venezia.boscolohotels.com

Boscolo Venezia

Housed within a 17th-century palazzo, the Boscolo Venezia is the perfect place to experience the enchanting atmosphere of Venice. The hotel ofers 72 rooms, while a unique secret garden ofers views across the lagoon. The fve-star hotel combines contemporary comforts with vintage opulence;

78 | E X PE R I E NCE

globalblue.com

Japanese garden. Be sure to visit one of the hotel’s restaurants during your stay; opt for the Siddharta Café to sample a menu based on the fve Chinese elements, or admire the giant Buddha statue which overlooks diners at the pan-Asian Buddha-Bar Restaurant. Buddha-Bar Hotel, Jakubská 8, 110 00 Prague, +420 221 776300, buddhabarhotelprague.com

BuddHa-Bar

Hotel

Located in the heart of Prague, the Buddha-Bar Hotel brings oriental style and a touch of Eastern mysticism to the Czech capital. Decorated in shades of red and gold, each room features a black jacaranda bed and a headboard emblazoned with a dragon design, while some suites also have their own private

SHOP | 79

appreciate the sound-insulated windows, free WLAN connection and oversized desks, while the Finnish sauna and aroma steam bath are ideal for those hoping to relax. Be sure to dine at the hotel’s brasserie, which ofers a menu that encompasses everything from rustic pasta dishes to French haute cuisine.Fleming’s Hotel Munich-City,Bayerstrasse 47, 80335 Munich, +49 (0)89 444 4660, femings-hotels.com

Fleming’s Hotel

municH-city

Located in Munich city centre, Fleming’s Hotel combines home comforts with an innovative design that is sure to appeal. Each of its bedrooms boasts a striking décor with strict lines and a bright colour scheme, while the bathrooms are luxuriously appointed in granite, parquet and glass. Business guests will also

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A Glimpse of london

St Paul’s Cathedral is one of the city’s most enduring landmarks. Since it was rebuilt in 1675, the building has remained unchanged as London has evolved around it.

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to london with a

look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the fnest afternoon tea spots to

the best east london boutiques. start with sHop’s recommendations before

delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. for further

helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/london.

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BicesterVillage.com

LIKE SHOPPING. BUT BETTER.

The world’s greatest designer boutiques. All in one place.

With up to 60% off* and tax-free shopping.

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN ANYA HINDMARCH BELSTAFF

CH CAROLINA HERRERA DIANE VON FURSTENBERG MARC BY MARC JACOBS

MARNI SALVATORE FERRAGAMO STELLA MCCARTNEY

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD YVES SAINT LAURENT AND MANY MORE

(OPENING AUTUMN 2015)

EUROPE LONDON DUBLIN PARIS MADRID BARCELONA MILAN BRUSSELS FRANKFURT MUNICH CHINA SUZHOU SHANGHAI

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© Bicester Village 2014 *the recommended retail price.

82 | GUIDE

Place Of Interest Train Station

Central London

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NO TTING HILL GATE

KENSINGTON HIGH S

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KENSINGTON RD

WA

RWICK R

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PONT ST.

RoundPond

The LongWater

The Serpentine

PRA

ED ST.

MARBLE ARCH

EDGWARE ROAD

EDGWARE ROAD

MARYLEBONEBAKER

STREET

LANCASTER GATE

QUEENSWAY

BAYSWATER

ROYAL OAK

WARWICK AVENUE

NOTTING HILL GATE

HIGH STREETKENSINGTON

PADDINGTON

PADDINGTON

KNIGHTSBRIDGE

SLOANE SQUARE

SOUTHKENSINGTON

GLOUCESTERROAD

EARLSCOURT

VICTORIA & ALBERT

MUSEUM

ROYAL ALBERT

HALL

KENSINGTON PALACE

NATURAL HISTORY

MUSEUM

SERPENTINE GALLERY

Featured In This issue London Underground Station

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VICTORIA ST.

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FLEET ST.

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HIGH HOLBORN

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OXFORD ST.

KIN

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WA

Y

JERMYN ST.

LAMBETH ROAD

AL

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RT

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BA

NK

ME

NT

COVENTGARDEN

LEICESTER SQUARE

PICCADILLY CIRCUS

OXFORD CIRCUS

TOTTENHAMCOURT ROAD

HOLBORN

CHANCERYLANE

BONDSTREET

GOODGE STREET

GREEN PARK

EMBANKMENT

TEMPLE

LAMBETH NORTH

HYDE PARKCORNER

VICTORIA

ST. JAMES PARK

PIMLICO

WESTMINSTER

WATERLOO

CHARINGCROSS

BUCKINGHAM

PALACE

APSLEY HOUSE

WESTMINSTER

ABBEY

BIG BEN

TATE GALLERY

LONDON EYE

NATIONAL

THEATRE

BRITISH

MUSEUM

ST. JAMES PARK

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84 | GUIDE

Mount Street, Davies Street & Bruton Street

GROSVENOR HILL

BOU RDON STREET

MOUNT ROW

BRUTON STREET

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Berkeley Square

CA

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Scot’s● JENNY PACKHAM

NIC

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● VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

● JESSICA MCCORMACK SOLANGE● AZAGURY-PARTRIDGE

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LEICA

●

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

South Molton Street,

Davies Street & Brook Street

BROOKS MEWS

AVERY

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STREET

BROOK STREET

DA

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NE

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OXFORD STREET

BOND STREET

BROWNS ●WHISTLES ●

PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND ●BUTLER & WILSON ●

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ●CLAUDIE PIERLOT ●

DUNE ●

VERTICE UOMO ●JONES ●

MONICA VINADER ● AFTERSHOCK ●

POSTE ●COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ●

MODA IN PELLE ●AUBADE ●

SANDRO ●ANNOUSHKA ●SPENCER

● HART

● O

MEGA

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UTHOR

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LAUDIE P

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INKO

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ATEAU

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HOCOLAT

CK●

JEWELLERY

LINKS O

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● LONDON

VERA WANGAT BROWNS ●

BOSIDENG ●

Claridge’s

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ACCESSORIZE ● ● PINKO

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Selfridges

Hotel

Restaurant

GEntlEmEn’s tonIc

catering to the modern man, Gentlemen’s tonic ofers a welcoming environment designed for relaxation. the mayfair salon ofers a traditional barbershop as well as an extensive treatment menu. Its décor is appropriately masculine with accents of wood, leather and marble complemented by an array of hi-tech gadgets. Book the salon’s new tibetan massage; the treatment uses Dead sea salts and Himalayan pebbles to rhythmically massage away aches and pains and leave soft, sleek skin behind.Gentlemen’s Tonic, 31A Bruton Place, london W1J 6nn, +44 (0)20 7297 4343, gentlemenstonic.com

Department Store Featured In This issue

London Underground Station

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Place Of Interest

New Bond Street

TENTERDEN STREET TENTERDEN STREET

GROSVENOR HILL

BOURDON STREET

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CLIFFORD STREET

BROOK STREET HANOVER STREET

BURLINGTON GARDENS

BRUTON ST

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BROOKS MEWS

GROSVENOR STREET

MADDOX ST.

NE

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Berkeley Square

SO

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OXFORD STREET OXFORD STREET

HERMÈS ●

MICHAEL KORS ●

LORO PIANA ●

CHANEL ●

CHRISTIAN DIOR ●

CHURCH’S LADIES ●

BOUCHERON ●

ASPREY ●

BULGARI ●

PIAGET ●

MARCUS ●

HARRY WINSTON ●

MOUSSAIEFF ●

CHANEL ●

CHAUMET ●

CARTIER ●

BOODLES ●

MIKIMOTO ●

DAVID MORRIS ●

● WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND

● PATEK PHILLIPE

● GEORG JENSON

● DE GRISOGONO

● ADLER

● CHOPARD

● MOIRA

● BREGUET

● VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

● GRAFF

● RALPH LAUREN

● BURBERRY

● LOUIS VUITTON

● NEXT

● BYFORD

● BATEEL

● LEONIDAS

● WATCHES OF BOND ST

● BASLER

● SARAH PACINI

● OROGOLD

● FENWICK

● DOLCE & GABANNA

● EMPORIO ARMANI

● MULBERRY

● WEMPE

● COACH

● SMYTHSON

● ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

● OTHER CRITERIA

● HUBLOT

● ANNE FONTAINE

● LONGCHAMP

● JIMMY CHOO

● LUCIE CAMPBELL

● RUSSELL & BROMLEY

ZARA ●

T.M.LEWIN ●

HOUSE OF LABELS ●

PRONOVIAS ●

VICTORINOX ●

BOUDI ●

LORIBLU ●

MEPHISTO ●

BONHAMS ●

RM WILLIAMS ●

HOUSE OF LABLES ●

MARITHE FRANCOIS GIRBAUD ●

RUSSELL & BROMLEY ●

VICTORIA’S SECRET ●

ANYA HINDMARCH ●

MONT BLANC ●

FOLLI FOLLIE ●

HUGO BOSS ●

CAR SHOE WAREHOUSE ●

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ●

PAL ZILERI ●

CANALI ●

BREITLING ●

CORNELIANI ●

CHURCH’S ●

BELSTAFF ●

MISSONI ●

SJ PHILIPS ●

ZILLI ●

FENDI ●

POLO RALPH LAUREN

(CHILDRENS) ●

TORY BURCH ●

MIU MIU ●

DOVER STREET

● MARKET

OPERA GALLERY

● PIN

ET

● R

OHMIR

● CHARLOTTE O

LYMPIA

● E. M

ARINELLA

● A

SAUVAGE

● N

ATASHA ZINKO

● THE BOX BOUTIQUE

TEMPERLEY ●

● LUDWIG REITER

● 77 DIAMONDS

● CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

WOLF & BADGER ●

GENTLEMEN’S TONIC ●

GISMONDI JEWELLERY 1754 ●

● BALLY

VICTORIA BECKHAM ●

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Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

Conduit Street &

Old Bond Street

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CO

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ST

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DO

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JERMYN STREET

CLIFFORD STREET

BURLINGTON GARDENS

CO

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SA

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MADDOX STREET

OL

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D S

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PICCADILLY

AR

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GT

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ST

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GUCCI ●

VACHERON

CONSTANTIN ●

VERTU ●

MARINA RINALDI ●

CARTIER ●

ETRO ●

DE BEERS ●

CHANEL ●

DKNY ●

CAMPER ●

ROLEX ●

AKRIS ●

LEVIEV ●

SAINT

LAURENT ●

● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

● JOSEPH

● CHATILA

● MAX MARA

● PRADA

● BOTTEGA VENETA

● DANIEL KATZ

● MONTBLANC

● OMEGA

● DAMIANI

● DAKS

● LA PERLA

● DOLCE & GABBANA

● ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

● TOD’S

● JAEGER-LECOULTRE

● MAPPIN & WEBB

GIANMARIA

BUCCELLATI ●

THE ROYAL

ACADEMY

The Wolseley

Le Caprice

Burlington Arcade

TIFFANY & CO. ●

PAUL SMITH ●

Dover

Street

Market

GIE

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HA

WK

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OL

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SW

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GO

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●

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● PAUL SMITH

NORTON & SONS ●

● JIM

MY

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HU

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Place Of Interest

Shopping Centre/Mall Restaurant

Department Store

1. Oscar Wilde tea at Café Royal

Served in the sumptuous Louis XVI drawing room that

was once frequented almost daily by Oscar Wilde, the

Café Royal’s afternoon tea takes inspiration from one of

his most famous works, the Importance of Being Earnest.

The menu is as witty as it is delicious; choose an indulgent

Lady Bracknell éclair or a more experimental Cherry Lane

Absinthe Green Fairy pastry.

Hotel Café Royal, 68 Regent Street, London W1B 4DY,

+44 (0)20 7406 3310, hotelcaferoyal.com

* for map go to page 90

2. Aqua Shard

Serving afternoon tea alongside panoramic city views,

Aqua Shard’s offering is one of London’s most spectacular.

Set on the 31st foor, the restaurant serves tea in its

stunning triple-height atrium and offers a menu flled with

distinctive favour combinations. Try a chicken sandwich

perfumed with lavender mayonnaise before pairing orange

blossom scones with kumquat and cinnamon jam.

Aqua Shard, Level 31, The Shard, St. Thomas Street,

London SE1 9RY, +44 (0)20 3011 1256,

aquashard.co.uk

3. Charlie and the Chocolate Factory

at One Aldwych

Inspired by Roald Dahl’s novel, the Charlie and the

Chocolate Factory tea offers an array of imaginative sweet

treats. Options range from a golden chocolate egg flled

with vanilla cheesecake and mandarin to homemade

candyfoss. Be sure to try Charlie’s cocktail with your

pastries; the drink features Dalmore whisky with Grand

Marnier Cherry, chocolate bitters and Champagne.

One Aldwych, 1 Aldwych, London WC2B 4BZ,

+44 (0)20 7300 1070, onealdwych.com

TOp AFTeRnOOn TeAS

3

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1. Keats House

The former home of romantic poet John Keats and the

place where he met the love of his life Fanny Brawne, this

historic Hampstead house provides a unique insight into

the artist’s life and work. Stroll the grounds where the

couple’s love affair blossomed and where Keats composed

Ode to a Nightingale; read personal letters in his study;

and admire an array of other artefacts including Fanny

Brawne’s diamond engagement ring.

Keats House, 10 Keats Grove, London NW3 2RR,

+44 (0)20 7332 3868, cityoflondon.gov.uk

2. Horniman Museum and Gardens

The Horniman Museum in south-east London would be

even more popular if its location was more central. Its

vast collection is well worth the journey across the city;

more than 350,000 items related to anthropology, natural

history and music are on show, while the museum’s acres

of manicured gardens are equally noteworthy.

Horniman Museum and Gardens, 100 London Road, London

SE23 3PQ, +44 (0)20 8699 1872, horniman.ac.uk

3. Churchill War Rooms

Follow in Winston Churchill’s footsteps by visiting his war

rooms, consisting of the Cabinet War rooms, Churchill’s

bunker and a museum dedicated to the wartime leader.

History comes to life thanks to the museum’s collection of

oral histories, flmed interviews and personal objects while

fxed attractions include the transatlantic telephone room

and the Map Room, preserved exactly as it was when the

lights were switched off there on 16 August 1945.

Churchill War Rooms, Clive Steps, King Charles Street,

London SW1A 2AQ, +44 (0)20 7930 6961, iwm.org.uk

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

● TEZENIS

CA

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FOUBERT 'S PLACE

GREAT CASTLE STREET

BEAK ST.

SA

VIL

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OW

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AV

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VIGO STREET

GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET

OXFORD STREET

RE

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ST

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ET

RE

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ST

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ET

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NT

ST

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OXFORD CIRCUS

BENETTON ●

● NIKETOWN

● TOPSHOP / TOPMANH&M ●

LEVI’S ●

FRENCH CONNECTION ●

KAREN MILLEN ●

TED BAKER ●

APPLE STORE ●

LACOSTE ●

LONGCHAMP ●

MOLTON BROWN ●7 FOR ALL

MANKIND ●MICHAEL KORS ●

FURLA ●HOBBS ●

BARKER ● TUMI ●

CAMPER ●KIPLING ●CLARKS ●

CHURCH’S ●

THE PEN SHOP ●

GANT ●

CRABTREE &EVELYN ●

L’OCCITANE ●

WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND ●

OXFORDS ●

GODIVA ●

SWAROVSKI ●

ZARA HOME ●

PENHALIGON’S ●

TOYWATCH ●

BURBERRY ●

● H

OU

SE

OF

HA

NO

VE

R

● BANANA REPUBLIC

● OMEGA

● & OTHER STORIES

● ACCESSORIZE

● ARMANI EXCHANGE

● ALL SAINTS

● H&M

● COS

● DESIGUAL

● GAP

● JAEGER

● KURT GEIGER

● HAMLEYS

● JUICY COUTURE

● HUGO BOSS

● ESPRIT

● LEVI’S

● REISS

● WOLFORD

● CALVIN KLEIN JEANS

● GUESS

● ANTHROPOLOGIE

● MASSIMO DUTTI

● PIQUADRO

● BROOKS BROTHERS

● TIMBERLAND

● TOMMY HILFIGER

● MAPPIN & WEBB

RUSSELL &● BROMLEY

● T.M. LEWIN

● FOLLI FOLLIE

● THE BODY SHOP

● ZARA

● MANGO

Cinnamon Soho

Liber t y

Regent Street

Restaurant

Department Store

Featured In This Issue

London Underground Station

Must-visit MuseuMs

2

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90 | GUIDE

Regent Street, Piccadilly & Jermyn Street

SA

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VIL

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GLASSHOUSE STREET

CHARLES II STREET

VIGO STREET

BU

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ST

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ST

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JERMYN STREET

LO

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PICCADILLY

PICCADILLYCIRCUS

PiccadillyCircus

St James’sSquare

WA

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REISS ●

SUPERDRY ●

CLARKS ●LONDON TEXTILE CO ●

● LILLYWHITES

● JAMES LOCK & CO

● AUSTIN REED● WOLFORD

● VIYELLA● CHARLES TYRWHITT

● MOSS● UNIQLO

● COACH

HOLLISTER ●

HUNTER ●● NESPRESSO

● LOTUS

● LUSH

CA

MP

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AR

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●

OSPREY ●

● BERRY BROS. & RUDD

CaféRoyal

UGG● AUSTRALIA

● MR HARE

Non-Global Blue RetailerGlobal Blue Retailer

Featured In This Issue

Department Store

SELECTED STORES IN

PRINCESS ARCADE:

THE LEFT SHOE

COMPANY

Shopping Centre

Restaurant

TUrnbUll & AssEr

With an illustrious heritage and acclaimed reputation as one of london’s fnest shirt-makers, Turnbull & Asser is a bastion of tradition. since 1885, the company has employed skilled craftspeople to create shirts with a perfect ft, timeless sense of style and steadfast durability. Every shirt is made in England using the fnest fabrics and traditional techniques. Turnbull & Asser shirts have been worn by some of the world’s most famous men, including the Prince of Wales and James bond, so visitors to its Jermyn street store are in good company.

Turnbull & Asser, 71-72 Jermyn street, london sW1Y 6PF, +44 (0)20 7808 3000, turnbullandasser.co.uk

PH

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GU I DE | 91

Brompton Road

HA

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KENSINGTON ROAD KENSINGTON ROAD

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PE

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KNIGHTSBRIDGE

CA

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HA

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KNIGHTSBRIDGE

VENTURE

● PHOTOGRAPHY

AR

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HE

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PY

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S ●

HARVEY

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● SKANDIUM

● A

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Harro

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Place Of Interest

SELECTED STORES IN

HARRODS:

LLADRO

London Underground Station

P.40

P.92

92 | GUIDE

Skandium

Scandinavian design is internationally acclaimed and at the Brompton Road branch of Skandium the region’s fnest pieces are placed centre stage. The store stocks an extensive range but is surprisingly easy to navigate with expert members of staf on hand to lend helpful advice. Skandium is the only place in London where you’ll fnd items by marimekko, iittala, asplund and Royal Copenhagen in a range that includes furniture, lighting and kitchenware.Skandium, 245-249 Brompton Road, London SW3 2EP, +44 (0)20 7584 2066, skandium.com

* for map go to page 91

Sloane Street South Sloane Street North

BA

SIL

ST

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HARRIET ST.

CADOGAN PL ACE

LO

WN

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S S

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LowndesSquare

SL

OA

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LO

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● GARRARD

● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

● SERGIO ROSSI

● ALBERTA FERRETTI

● TOM FORD

● ERMANNO SCERVINO

● MONCLER

● FRATELLI ROSSETTI

● ESCADA

● MISSONI

● LOUIS VUITTON

KNIGHTSBRIDGE

BOODLES ●KID SPACE ●

MCM ●H&M ●

TOD’S ●

GIORGIO ARMANI ●

PRADA ●

LORO PIANA ●

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ●

SHANGHAI TANG ●DOLCE & GABANA ●

JITROIS ●CESARE PACIOTTI ●

BILLIONAIRE ●HOGAN ●GRAFF ●

ANNE FONTAINE ●

BONPOINT ●

JOSEPH ●

GUCCI ●

ROBERTO CAVALLI ●

MARNI ●

GIANFRANCO FERRÉ ●

DIOR ●

JIMMY CHOO ●

BOTTEGA VENETA ●

● BERLUTI

● GINA

● ROGER VIVIER

● MIU MIU

● VERSACE

● FENDI

● HERMÈS

● BULGARI

● DOLCE & GABBANA

● VALENTINO

● SAINT LAURENT

● EMILIO PUCCI

● CHANEL

● DRJIE

● LA PERLA

● COUTTS & CO BANK

AM

OU

AG

E ●

Har vey Nichols

ELLIS STREET

CADOGAN PLACE CADOGAN GATE

CADOGAN GARDENS

WILBR AHAM PL .

SLOANE TERR ACE

SL

OA

NE

GA

RD

EN

S

SloaneSquare

S

LO

AN

E S

TR

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KING’S RD

SYMONS STREET

LO

WE

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LO

AN

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TR

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T

LES PETITES ●

MARIE CHANTAL ●

PAUL & JOE ●

FRANK SMYTHSON ●

HACKETT ●

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ●

CARTIER ●

TIFFANY ●

PETERJONES ●

TR

OT

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●

TH

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OO

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●

LINKS OF LONDON ●

● PINK

● PAULE KA● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI● ANYA HINDMARCH● BROWNS

● CHLOÉ● MONTBLANC● JO MALONE

● H

UG

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OS

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● D

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BO

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● PICKETT

● MAJE

● LARA BOHNIC

● PICKETT

● N.PEAL

● CASSANDRA GOAD

● H

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AN

NO

US

HK

A ●

● KABIRI

BIMBA &● LOLA

VIVIENNE● WESTWOOD

SLOANESQUARE

Non-Global Blue RetailerGlobal Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

Department Store

Restaurant

London Underground Station

P.38

Gu i dE | 93

Redchurch Street

MONTCLARESTREET

LIGONIERSTREET

WHITBY ST

REET

SCLATER STREET

EBORSTREET

BETHNAL

GREEN

ROAD

CLUBROW

CLUBROW

CALVERT AVENUECALVERT AVENUE

BOUNDARYSTREET

SWANFIELDSTREET

OLD NICHOL

STREET

REDCHURCH STRE

ET

REDCHUR

CH STRE

ET

SHOREDITCHHIGHSTREET

SHOREDITCHHIGHSTREET

Alb

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Bo

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CA

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NO

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HO

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PC

●

CARHARTT ●

Owl & thePussycat

THE GALLERY ●

THOR & WHISTLE ●● URBAN INTERIOR

● AUBIN & WILLS

LA

BO

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& W

AIT

●

SHOREDITCH

HOUSE

Boxpark

● START

Bar Shopping Centre Featured In This issue

1. Aimé

Providing a pocket of Parisian style in the heart of east

London, Aimé stocks a varied selection of French labels

including Isabel Marant, APC, Repetto and Soeur. While the

store’s range has expanded in recent years to include other

European brands, Aimé’s selection still epitomises French chic.

Aimé, 17 Redchurch Street, London E2 7DJ,

+44 (0)20 7739 2158, aimelondon.com

2. Start

One of the frst boutiques to bring designer fashion to

Shoreditch, Start offers an eclectic range of international and

local labels. Expect to fnd pieces by Acne, Carven and Rick

Owens offered alongside accessories that include Diptyque

candles and Laura Lee jewellery. The store’s renowned

denim-ftting service makes it the ideal place to pick up a new

pair of jeans.

Start, 42-44 Rivington Street, London EC2A 3QP,

+44 (0)20 7729 3334, start-london.com

3. Hostem

Menswear boutique Hostem’s range runs the gamut from luxe

streetwear labels to niche avant-garde fashion brands. Its

interior is suitably stylish; restored foorboards, exposed bulbs

and hessian wall panels provide the backdrop to pieces by

Margaret Howell, Rick Owens and Yohji Yamamoto.

Hostem, 41-43 Redchurch Street, London E2 7DJ,

+44 (0)20 7739 9733, hostem.co.uk

BeSt eASt London BoutiqueS

3

94 | GUIDE

Ledbury Road

COLVILLE MEWS

NE

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HA

M R

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D

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ONSDALE ROADCO

VIL

LE

RO

AD

DE

NB

IGH

RO

AD

ARTESIAN ROAD

COLVINE TERR ACE

S

CHEPSTOW

VILLAS

LE

DB

UR

Y R

OA

D

LE

DB

UR

Y R

OA

D

W

ESTBOURNE GROVE

WESTBOURNE GROVE

TWENTY8TWELVE ●MATCHES ●

DIANE VON FURSTENBERG ●THE VILLAGE BICYCLE ●

CARAMEL ●LYON CHOY LONDON ●

PETIT BATEAU ●

ANYA HINDMARCH ●MR. HARE ●

ORLEBAR BROWN ●

● PENOLOPE CHILVERS

● MATCHES

● ECONE

● I LOVE GORGEOUS

● J.W.BEETON

● MELISSA ODABASH

EMMA HOPE ●

MARIE-CHANTAL CHILDREN ●

IRIS ●

JOSEPH ●

MELT ●

ASHLEY STORES ●

ASSYA LONDON ●

JEEVES ●

FARA BABY ●

FARA KIDS ●

● WOLF & BADGER

● ROBIN MARTIN ANTIQUES

● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE

● REISS

● BODAS

● DAVID CLULOW

● PETIT AIMEBeach Blanket Babylon

Otolenghi

E&O

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Restaurant Featured In This issue

1. Caramel

Caramel’s childrenswear collections are designed to be as

beautiful as they are hardwearing. Expect to fnd a range

with an overriding vintage aesthetic. Every piece is modern,

but original enough to ensure the range stands out.

Caramel, 77 Ledbury Road, London W11 2AG,

+44 (0)20 7727 0906, caramel-shop.co.uk

2. Wolf & Badger

For those seeking the next big thing, Wolf & Badger’s Ledbury

Road boutique is sure to provide a wealth of inspiration.

The store supports independent designers with its eclectic

collection of fashion, jewellery and interior design pieces.

The current range includes Serge DeNimes and Jena Theo.

Wolf & Badger, 46 Ledbury Road, London W11 2AB,

+44 (0)20 7229 5698, wolfandbadger.com

3. Melt

The artisanal chocolates on offer at Melt are sure to satisfy

anyone with a sweet tooth. The store makes every item by

hand on-site, using ingredients sourced from sustainable

producers. Options range from sea-salted caramel bonbons

to milk chocolate and hazelnut slabs.

Melt, 59 Ledbury Road, London W11 2AA,

+44 (0)20 7727 5030, meltchocolates.com

TOp sTOREs On LEDBuRy ROaD

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Westbourne Grove & Denbigh Road

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The Ledbury

Place Of Interest Café

1. Dock Kitchen

Stevie Parle’s experimental restaurant Dock Kitchen offers

a different menu every week; dishes are determined by

available produce and the chefs’ current inspirations. This

spontaneous, modern approach contrasts with the restaurant’s

historic surroundings; set in a former Victorian wharf building,

the space’s original features include brick arches and a

beamed ceiling.

Dock Kitchen, Portobello Docks, 342-344 Ladbroke Grove,

London W10 5BU, +44 (0)20 8962 1610,

dockkitchen.co.uk

2. The Ledbury

The Ledbury specialises in understated brilliance. Chef Brett

Graham oversees a modern French menu while the personable

staff and relaxed atmosphere add further appeal. Typical

dishes might include fame-grilled mackerel with pickled

cucumber, mustard and shiso or breast and conft of pigeon

with cherries, red vegetables and leaves.

The Ledbury, 127 Ledbury Road, London W11 2AQ,

+44 (0)20 7792 9090, theledbury.com

3. E&O

E&O’s carefully selected menu of pan-Asian cuisine ranges

from familiar dim sum, sushi and tempura to more complex

fare such as a lamb rendang and sweet potato curry, and beef

bulgogi balanced with a coriander raita. The dining room is

intimate and atmospheric yet contemporary, with dark-slatted

wood panels and cosy booths.

E&O, 14 Blenheim Crescent, London W11 1NN,

+44 (0)20 7229 5454, rickerrestaurants.com/e-and-o

nOTTing HiLL’s BEsT REsTauRanTs

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Featured In This Issue

96 | GUIDE

Above: Scarfes Bar

MY CITY: Patrick Grant

‘Every district of London has great local

stores; that’s one of the things that make

the city so great. the up-and-coming areas

have the most exciting and innovative cafés,

bars, food markets and stores for everything

from clothing to furniture.

‘Berry Brothers & Rudd * p.90 wine

merchants is probably the most beautiful

shop in the world, it’s like a 17th-century time

capsule. try Dalston, clapton or Hackney

Wick if you want the edgier side of London.

LN-CC is an amazing, curated concept store

in Dalston, east London.

‘The Delaunay has a beautiful dining

room and does the best breakfast in town,

especially if you like sausage and sauerkraut.

Cecconi’s * p.87 Venetian restaurant in

Mayfair has amazing service and is the best

spot for people-watching in the W1 area.

‘the bar at Dukes Hotel in Mayfair

serves the very best and strongest martinis

in the world. the waiters come to your table

with a trolley and make them in front of you.

Scarfes Bar at the rosewood Hotel has

a wonderful atmosphere and probably the

most delicious curry in town. the original

Patrick Grant won the British Fashion council’s

Menswear Designer of the Year award for his revival

of British heritage tailoring brand E tautz, which he

acquired alongside Savile row tailor norton & Sons

in 2005. He has featured in a host of BBc television

documentaries and is a regular on the Uk’s best-

dressed lists. Originally from Edinburgh, he now lives

in London, and he tells SHOP’s Gemma Latham what

he loves about the city

etautz.com, nortonandsons.co.uk

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Above (clockwise from top lef): Bistrotheque; Crate Brewery; The British Museum

Bistrotheque is still the hippest east London

dining spot. they do great chicken. Crate

Brewery is a microbrewery and pizzeria by

the Olympic Park in Hackney Wick. it’s a

great spot that only locals really know about.

‘Most afternoons you will fnd me

working at Norton & Sons * p.87, the best

tailors on Savile row. i love to walk from

Savile row past St James’s Palace and across

the Mall to St James’s Park * p.83. the

eastern view from the bridge in St James’s

Park, towards Horse Guards and the Palace

of Westminster, is spectacular. the Palace of

Westminster is hard to beat for sheer drama.

Perched above the thames, it is a feat of

incredible building skill, and the history

of its halls are beyond compare.

‘Music, art, theatre, fashion … the

depth and breadth of culture in London is

endless. it’s hard to choose just one museum,

but the British Museum * p.83 takes

some beating.

‘the royal parks are a great places to

go for a run – and i like to cycle everywhere.

On a sunny day there is no better way to get

around and to see the city.’

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98 | GUIDE

Bicester Village

Located just one hour away from central

London, Bicester Village is surrounded

by picturesque countryside and is close

to the historic city of oxford. Bicester

Village plays host to more than 130

boutiques from leading big-name brands

and creative up-and-coming labels. the

architectural design refects its setting,

with low-rise boutiques clustered around

an open-air boulevard.

Bicester Village, 50 Pingle Drive,

Bicester, oxfordshire oX26 6wD,

+44 (0)1869 323200, bicestervillage.com

Opening times

Monday-Friday: 10am – 7pm

Saturday: 9am – 8pm

Sunday: 10am – 7pm*

*on Sundays Burberry, gucci, Hugo Boss

and Polo Ralph Lauren open at 11.30am

for browsing and at 12pm for shopping;

they close at 6pm. Prada and Versace open

from 12pm to 6pm for shopping.

globalblue.com

DoN’t MISS…

Shopping Day Experience

this exclusive package includes:

• Return tickets on the Shopping

express® luxury coach service from

central London to Bicester Village

• A VIP card providing further 10%

savings on purchases in more than 130

boutiques

• Hands-free shopping service where

boutique assistants pack your purchases

ready for collection later

• A two-course lunch or dinner at either

Busaba eathai, Villandry grand Café

or Carluccio’s

• £50 prepaid MasterCard gift card for

use in boutiques of your choice.

New oPeNINgS

Gina

gina’s shoes come in sculptural styles

that demonstrate an imaginative use of

cut, colour and fabric. Be sure to admire

the label’s meticulous attention to detail.

Oscar de la Renta

Add a touch of Hollywood glamour to

your wardrobe with a trip to oscar de

la Renta. the designer is known for

producing inherently feminine pieces.

British Designers’ Collective

For a comprehensive overview of British

menswear, look no further than the

British Designers’ Collective pop-

up. Curated by gQ associate editor

Robert Johnston, this temporary shop

features collections from more than 15

of Britain’s emerging and established

menswear designers.

SHOP | 99

How to get tHeRe

By Shopping Express®

the Shopping express®

is the daily* coach service

from central London

to Bicester Village, one

of the world’s premier

luxury shopping

destinations.

*excludes 25 December

ticket prices:

Adult return £25

Child return £20 (up to

15 years of age)

By Train

there are regular services

– up to four an hour –

from London Marylebone

to Bicester North station.

the journey time from

London Marylebone to

Bicester North can take as

little as 42 minutes. the

Bicester Village Shuttle

Bus will whisk you to your

favourite boutiques.

By Car

the journey from

London takes 60 minutes.

take the M40 motorway

to exit nine. Follow the

A41 for two miles towards

Bicester and then follow

the signs to Village Retail

Park and Bicester Village

outlet Centre. the car

park is free. If you are

using a satellite navigation

system, the postcode is

oX26 6wD.

PeRFeCt DAy

Verity Hogan, SHoP’s

city guide and lifestyle

editor, describes how she

would spend a perfect

day at Bicester Village

1pm

Stop for lunch at Italian

restaurant Carluccio’s.

the menu includes

fresh pasta, risotto and

salad dishes while the

atmosphere is lively

and relaxed.

3pm

Hearts on Fire

provides a selection

of the world’s fnest

cut diamonds and is

known as a leader in

the international feld.

Prepare to be dazzled.

5pm

end your day admiring

the stylish, hardwearing

and practical luggage

at Samsonite. An item

from here will be ideal

for transporting your

purchases home safely.

10am

Start your day with a

master class in British

style at Charles

Tyrwhitt. the label

is famed for its high-

quality, precision-cut

shirts and expert service.

11am

whether you’re

looking for sandals,

boots, platforms or

ballerina pumps, the

sophisticated range at

Rupert Sanderson is

sure to impress.

100

When you shop the world, shop tax free

Contact: taxfree@globalblue.com+421 232 111 111Spend a minimum of £30-£50 and save up to 11% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

2. Claim

When you’re heading home, at your point of

departure visit customs to get your receipts

approved, before collecting your refund at one

of our Refund Ofces.

Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the

purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s

best shopping districts.

So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with

Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for

Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax

Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

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Translations

106

52: In Focus: The Burberry Trench Coat

Идеальное Оформление

РусскИй ПеРевОдСтивен Дойг готов признать тренч Burberry не только неувядающей британской классикой, но и национальным достоянием

Едва ли какой-либо предмет гардероба способен воплотить истинно британский дух так, как тренч Burberry. Красивый и безупречно продуманный, он защищает от моросящих дождей лондонской зимы своего владельца, устремившегося по лондонским улицам к блеску Риджет-Стрит. Этот классический предмет одежды укоренился в британской истории и культуре, сыграв свою роль в поворотные моменты жизни страны. Кроме того, с его помощью остаются на плаву мастеровые сообщества Великобритании, получающие стабильные заказы от Burberry. Под руководством креативного директора модного дома Кристофера Бейли этот классический плащ получает многочисленные переосмысления: со складками и защипами, украшенные бисером, бахромой, прозрачными вставками и ручной росписью – в любом случае, вот уже 100 лет эта вещь по-прежнему остается надежным вложением в стиль.

Знаменитое пальто носили заметные персоны – от Хамфри Богарта и Уинстона Черчилля до Одри Хепберн и принцессы Уэльской Дианы. Так что оно стало фактом стильной истории не только Burberry, но и всей британской моды. Все началось в 1856 году, когда помощник торговца тканями Томас Берберри открыл собственное дело по производству верхней одежды. Вскоре он его одежду стали использовать для военных целей. В 1912 году компания Burberry получила патент на удлиненное пальто Tielocken, прообраз тренчкота: его основным предназначением в то время была защита армейских и морских офицеров от превратностей британской погоды. Военными же задачами объясняются стилистические дополнения: погоны для военных знаков отличия, а также пряжки в форме буквы D. Символично, что зачастую

107

Модная жизнь в Лондоне поистине активна: здесь живут и работают как уже известные дизайнеры, так и подающие надежды таланты. Джош Симс рассказывает о самых интересных из них – тех, кому город обязан славой мировой столицы дизайна

Закончив учебу на северо-востоке Великобритании, Крис Холден уже знал, что есть только в одном городе ему суждено воплотить свои планы и стать со-основателем марки модернистских аксессуаров Ajoto: «Лондон. Наши аксессуары производятся в самых разных точках Британии, но при этом мне жизненно необходимо присутствовать в Лондоне. Ведь сейчас это средоточие дизайна мирового уровня. Здесь особая конкурентная среда, и посредственности просто не остается места».

Более того, два года назад критик дизайна из Te New York Times признал, что Лондон превосходит даже Нью-Йорк в роли мирового креативного центра, и его

58: Top Of The World

На вершине мира

офицеры носили пальто и вне службы. Основой уникальности тренча Burberry

стала инновационная ткань. Раньше, чтобы добиться водонепроницаемости, одежду прорезинивали или пропитывали воском, отчего она становилась тяжелой и негибкой. Томасу Берберри приписывается изобретение габардина – материала с плотным плетением волокон, из которого традиционно производятся эти пальто. Благодаря увеличению частоты и количества волокон, ткань сохраняла водонепроницаемость и не пропускала влагу. И это было новым словом в сфере верхней одежды.

И вот уже несколько поколений британцев наслаждаются изобретением Burberry. Более того, эта традиция открыла профессиональные возможности многим мастерам, умело соединяющим ремесленные навыки с современными технологиями. До сих пор фирменные тренчи шьются исключительно в Каслфорде, на севере Англии. На каждое пальто необходимо три недели, или более 100 этапов производства. Сам габардин также по-прежнему ткут здесь, и его качество постоянно проверяется исключительно вручную: только так можно убедиться в отсутствии брака. Даже воротничок одного тренча настолько сложен по конструкции, что мастер должен учиться целый год, чтобы считаться профессионалом в этом деле. Ведь воротник должен сидеть на шее легко и органично. Складка на спинке и отделка манжет и ремня – это исключительно ручная работа. Тем более что форма складки, например, остается неизменной с тех времен, когда пальто предназначалось еще для верховой езды: она обеспечивала раскованность движения и доступ воздуха.

Не так уж важно, какую версию тренча Burberry вы предпочтете - классическую бежевую с фирменной клеткой или блестящую металлическую. Но когда вы наденете его, вы почувствуете близость британской истории и оцените искусность мастеров Burberry.burberry.com

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108

аргументы были весьма убедительны. К лондонским школам искусства и дизайна относятся с должным почтением. Слава модных событий также способствует репутации британской столицы, будь то более 200 мероприятий в рамках London Design Festival или более локальные ярмарки, как, например, недавняя Clerkenwell Design Week.

Географическое положение Лондона посередине между США и Азией весьма привлекательно для крупного бизнеса. Да и ценителям дизайна со всего мира удобно навещать город. Даже история сыграла свою роль: «Просто побывав здесь, вы не сможете не заметить разнообразие стилей – в товарах на полках, оформлении интерьеров и архитектуре, ведь в городе сохранились строения эпохи королей Георгов, ар-деко и модернизма, - размышляет Холден. – Флоренция, конечно, красива, но там же только Ренессанс».

Процессы последних десятилетий также оказывают на креативную жизнь города существенное влияние. Лондон

активно поощряет творческие поиски своих талантов. Помимо знаменитых модных дизайнеров, здесь плодотворно работают и такие фигуры, как Теренс Конран: в 1960-70-е годы он преобразил сам подход к дизайну интерьеров и организации продаж. Основанный им магазин Habitat отмечает 50-летие в этом году, а его новая книга Plain Simple Useful раскрывает его принципы практичного дизайна.

На 1980-е и 90-е пришелся расцвет творчества Тома Диксона, Рона Арада и Росса Лавгрова. Они стали пионерами новой индустриальной и органической эстетики. Параллельно в Лондон переехали звезды из других стран – в частности, Марк Ньюсон и Заха Хадид. Можно предположить, дизайнерский стиль этого города пронизывает та же своенравность, которую приписывают его моде. Например, Арад и Диксон – оба самоучки. «Порой даже лучше, если у вас меньше знаний, меньше информации. Тогда вы не будете оценивать свое творчество с экспертной позиции или пытаться повторять уже сделанное кем-то. P

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Аня Хиндмарч – один из самых востребованных дизайнеров аксессуаров в Лондоне. Созданные ею сумки всегда тщательно проработаны и отличаются остроумным дизайном. Фрэнсис Уэйсем познакомился с историей ее бренда

Далеко не все мэтры моды способны управлять глобальной бизнес-империей, не теряя при этом чувства юмора и способности давать советы с теплой дружеской интонацией. Дизайнер аксессуаров Аня Хиндмарч – как раз из таких: в ней благополучно уживаются порой противоположные, но истинно британские черты характера. Она скромна: «Я предпочитаю носить некричащие комплекты», - это ее слова. Превозносить саму себя – не в ее манере, зато в ней всегда чувствуется живая, творческая искра. И дизайн – самая большая страсть Хиндмарч, причем наибольшее внимание она уделяет профессиональному мастерству и качеству. «Если вы найдете идеального мастера, то сумка запоет», - раскрывает она свой секрет. И нет оснований ей не верить: Аня Хиндмарч неустанно трудится в модной сфере уже 26 лет. Все свои модели

64: Bags For Life

Сумки для жизни

Вы будете подходить ко всему с детским энтузиазмом», - объясняет свою позицию Диксон, который недавно выпустил линию одежды для Adidas.

«Я не очень хорош в том, что должен делать, - утверждает Арад. – Поэтому иногда я позволяю себе похулиганить». Он приводит в пример историю, когда ему заказали разработать стул из нескольких слоев акрилового камня, предполагалось соединить их невидимым клеем. Дизайнер решил покрасить клей, чтобы в текстуре камня появился угольный шов. Нужно ли говорить, в итоге стул выглядел куда более интересно. Для другого заказа он сделал шины для велосипеда не из резины, а из петель упругой стали. Критики посчитали этот продукт произведением искусства, а не полноценным транспортным средством. В ответ дизайнер снял на видео собственную поездку на этом велосипеде по Лондону.

К самому молодому поколению лондонских дизайнеров можно отнести Томаса Хизервика и Барбера Осгерби. Компания Yoo, которая была основана Джоном Хитчкоксом и занимается разработкой открытых планировок вслед за Manhattan Lof Company, сотрудничала с подающими надежды Расселлом Сейджем и Бетаном Греем над открытием Yoo Home этим летом. Это будет самый крупный монобрендовый магазин в универмаге Harrods.

«Если вы регулярно приезжаете в Лондон, что непременно заметите, что многое изменилось за последнее десятилетие. Город развивается, - размышляет дизайнер интерьерных аксессуаров Ли Брум, открывший собственную компанию шесть лет назад. – Город участвует в развитии дизайнерских выставок и новой архитектуры во всем ее противоречивом разнообразии. В то же время, экономическая рецессия спровоцировала появление поп-ап магазинов и более камерных проектов, которые только подтверждают важность постоянного контакта с аудиторией для карьеры молодых дизайнеров».

По словам дизайнера и художника

Рольфа Сача, переехавшего в Лондон 20 лет назад, развитие дизайна отразилось на всех сторонах жизни города: «Несложно заметить, каким влиятельным оказалось современное искусство, - делится он своими наблюдениями. – Это значит, что теперь люди осознают, насколько важен хороший дизайн, причем не только для продаж, но и в барах, ресторанах и отелях. И конкуренция в этой сфере только растет. И те, кто неравнодушен к высококлассному дизайну, в Лондоне никогда не перестанут восторгаться».ajoto.com, conran.com, tomdixon.net, ronarad.co.uk, rosslovegrove.com, marc-newson.com, zaha-hadid.com, heatherwick.com, barberosgerby.com, yoo.com, homebyyoo.com, leebroom.com, rolfsachs.com

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она придумывает в собственной студии с кирпичными стенами, расположенной в центре района Bermondsey.

Этот принцип стал залогом популярности ее сумок. А ведь в этой индустрии конкуренция высока: за место на полке идет в буквальном смысле борьба. Кроме того, довольно долго тренды задавали It-bag с узнаваемыми логотипами. «Меня не слишком волнуют громкие имена: куда больше мне интересны качество и уровень мастерства», - размышляет Хиндмарч. Неудивительно, что большая часть ее продукции производится в Италии, где кожевенное дело имеет многовековую историю. О внимании Хиндмарч к деталям буквально слагают легенды: карманы для мобильного телефона и ручек всегда окажутся там, где им надлежит быть. Кроме того, в работу идут только мягчайшие виды кожи, а также шагреневые вставки и декоративные ювелирные украшения. На

создание одного экземпляра у мастеров уходит целый день: «Я предпочитаю старомодные техники, но переосмысляю их современным способом», - утверждает дизайнер.

Аня Хиндмарч выросла в Эссексе, к северо-востоку от Лондона. Когда Ане исполнилось 16 лет, мама отдала ей свою сумку Gucci – и так начался ее продолжительный роман с аксессуарами. Эта сумка, как и весь гардероб матери в целом, оказала на нее огромное влияние: «Мне кажется, дизайн воспринимается подсознательно. Я отлично помню, каким индивидуальным стилем обладала моя мама в 70-е! В памяти живо встает тот момент, когда она вручила мне ту старую сумочку Gucci. Я очень волновалась и хорошо запомнила, насколько неповторимо можно чувствовать себя с такой вещью».

Вскоре после этого, в нежном возрасте 19 лет, дизайнер открыла свое дело. Она разместила анонс в Harpers & Queen (теперь он называется Harper’s Bazaar) – и с первой же партии заработала 7000 фунтов. Так официально появился лейбл Anya Hindmarch, а в 1993 году Хиндмарч открыла первый магазин в Челси. В течение нескольких лет она умело воплощала успешные маркетинговые решения, которые привели к бренду почитателей со всего мира.

Одной из таких инициатив стал знаменитый слоган 2007 года «I’m not a plastic bag»: эта рекламная кампания изменила наши представления о том, в чем лучше носить продукты из супермакета. Еще одной остроумной идеей стало разослать модным редакторам накануне модных недель комплекты Fashion Week Survival Kit с таблетками от головной боли, водой, леденцами и лейкопластырем. А в 2009 году Хиндмарч начала создавать индивидуальные аксессуары на заказ. По мнению дизайнера, «люди перестали чувствовать связь с процессом создания сумки»: «А ведь это самое интересное! Реальная роскошь – в том, чтобы знать: моя вещь создана специально по моим требованиям».

В наши дни Anya Hindmarch –

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это современный роскошный бренд мирового уровня, сумевший сохранить дух ремесленного производства. Все сотрудники работают на компанию уже много лет и сохраняют глубокую лояльность к ее принципам. А всеми финансовыми вопросами занимается супруг дизайнера Джеймс Сеймур. В разных точках мира работает почти 60 фирменных магазинов: в частности, в минувшем августе открылся флагманский бутик на Манхэттене. Среди самых известных клиентов марки – герцогиня Кембриджская, Кейт Мосс, Анджелина Джоли, Кара Делевинь и Кэролайн Исса.

Профессиональное сообщество признает достижения Ани Хиндмарч в качестве предпринимателя. В 2001 году ей вручили премию British Fashion Council как дизайнеру аксессуаров года. А 2009 она получила MBE, а в 2012 Veuve Clicquot назвал ее Бизнесвумен года. Она входит в состав правлений Музея дизайна и Королевской академии искусств. Премьер-министр Великобритании Дэвид Кэмерон назначил ее торговым послом страны.

Помимо бизнеса, еще одной составляющей успеха стала здоровая самоирония. В 2012 году состоялось первое подиумное шоу изумительной коллекции Quality Street: вошедшие в нее сумки были стилизованы под британские старомодно упакованные конфеты и шоколадки Quality Street. В коллекции сезона осень/зима 2014 сочетаются повседневность и высокая роскошь: обратите внимание на клатч Kellogg’s Coco Pops, а также сумки, стилизованные под пластиковый пакет и спичечный коробок Swan Vesper.

Отчасти своим успехом Хиндмарч обязана духу Лондона. Что же делает британскую столицу столь особенным местом? «Это чрезвычайно активный центр креативности, которая распространяется на весь мир, - объясняет она. – Лондонские дизайнеры готовы рисковать. И на самом деле, эта готовность вкупе со страстью к неизведанному и способствуют успеху. Так много наших талантливых дизайнеров основывают собственные лейблы в

100: When you shop the world, shop tax freeСовершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free

Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира.Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазинеГде бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохораните чеки.2. При выездеВозвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов.Контакты:taxfree@globalblue.com+421 232 111 111Потратьте минимум £30-£50 и сэкономьте до 11% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

юном возрасте или работают на самые престижные модные дома по всему миру. Так что у нас определенно есть повод для гордости за лондонцев». И этот город гордится ее достижениями в такой же степени, поскольку она выводит лондонский дизайн аксессуаров на мировой уровень: ее сумками восхищаются во всем мире. Покидая дом Хиндмарч, я обращаю внимание на слоган, украшающий стену: «Всем нужна сумка». Лучше прочитать его читать так: «Всем нужна сумка Anya Hindmarch».anyahindmarch.com

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58: Top Of The World

焦点:博伯利风衣

伦敦的繁荣创作场景，涵盖了从明星到闪耀的当代

天才以及未来的新晋人才，伦敦就此夯实了它作为

国际设计大都市的地位，Josh Sims 采撷了这些个

其中精华。

产品设计师Chris Holden完成了他在英国东北部的

学业后，他深刻晓得有个城市最适合来打造他的现

代主义配饰公司。“那就是伦敦”他说，“我们在英国

各地都制作产品，但是必须在伦敦来加以展示。伦

敦是这个世界的设计展示窗口，一丝平庸都无可容

忍，充满了竞争气候。”

的确，两年前，一位《纽约时报》的设计评论

家便宣告伦敦已经战胜了纽约，成为全球的创意中

心。此评论依据不仅在于伦敦久负盛名的艺术设计

学校，还在于不断上升的国际设计展的声名。无论

是伦敦设计周两百余场的走秀，还是更加本地化的

Clerkenwell设计周，皆是这个城市设计声名显赫的

缘由。这个城市介于美国和亚洲之间的地理位置吸

引了众多大企业，也意味着来自世界各地的设计天

才们将在此打出一条奇险通道。

甚至伦敦的历史也在证明着它的多样性。“作为

伦敦的游客，你将处处被此城市设计所惊艳，无法

忽视这里设计的多样性，这些新颖的创意流淌在货

架上，室内设计上，那些交织着格鲁吉亚装饰艺术

和现代主义的建筑上。”Holden说，“佛伦罗萨很美

丽但伦敦是永不停歇的文艺复兴。”

近来的设计历史对伦敦的影响也可谓深远。伦

敦培育了极具影响力的本土设计人才。知名设计师

防水面料通常经由涂蜡或者胶化制成，沉重而且笨

拙。直到斜纹布出现，通过增加密度和线数，博伯利

面料不仅能通风，而且足够强大足以防水——这是

外衣的新方向。

博伯利为几代英国人装着打下基调，也为熟练

工人提供就业机会。风衣在英格兰北部Castleford

制作而成，工人们将传统技巧与现代工艺相结合。

斜纹布料在此织就，只凭肉眼检查以确保布料毫无

瑕疵。工人们大概需要3个礼拜100多道工序来制作

一件外套。风衣领子如此复杂，亦工匠们耗费一年

的时间来学习如何缝合，以确保领子状如流线。后褶

和袖口以及肩带是手工剪裁制作而成。纵使人们骑

马磨破了大衣，后褶上的线条依然保持一致，以便

运动和通风。

无论是选择有着精美衬里的经典款博伯利焦糖

色风衣，或是选择闪耀的金属版本风衣。当你穿上

博伯利，都仿佛穿着婆娑的英国历史和精湛工艺。

burberry.com

博伯利风衣作为英国经典外套的历史绵远流长，具

有英国国宝般的魅力，Stephen Doig如是说。

很少有服装品牌能如博伯利一样能代言英国经典形

象。博伯利风衣的品质无可挑剔，惊艳无俩。伦敦细

雨零濛的冬日，博伯利风衣为人遮风挡雨，也为你带

来摄政街的流光溢彩。这些经典服装如今已被编织

进英国历史与文化之中，在这个国家的精彩时刻中得

以铭记，并且使得英国制造行业继续存活。风衣在博

伯利创意总监Christopher Bailey的奇妙手笔下有

着各色各样的转化——掐捏、褶皱、与各色珠子、流

苏、透明面料与绘画斑点相串联——然而主题风格

却依旧恒久，保持100多年不曾改变。

博伯利风衣在传奇人物身上有着令人印象深刻

的表达。从亨弗莱·鲍嘉，温斯顿·丘吉尔，奥黛丽·

赫本到已故威尔士王妃戴安娜，变化万千。这是博伯

利和英国风格历史融汇结合的一部分。1856年，服

装学徒Thomas Burberry创办了他的户外服装公

司,并将生意扩展到军事用途。1912年，博伯利的长

大衣申请了专利，并命名为 Tielocken，在后来被称

作为“风衣”，以保护军队和海军军官来抵御英国的

恶劣天气。这些服装委实好看，以至于这些军官们

在下班后也一样穿着大衣。时尚与军事结合甚为融

洽——肩章上添加了军事徽章，D字皮带扣上添加

军事物件。

博伯利风衣独一无二之处还在于面料创新。这

是其核心技术。Thomas Burberry的功劳在于发明

斜纹布，这紧密织就的布料有着传统工艺。从前的

美文翻译

52: In Focus: The Burberry Trench Coat

焦点:博伯利风衣

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伦敦配饰设计师Anya Hindmarch，近来声名鹊

起。她擅长制作精美手袋，这些手袋处处洋溢着设

计智慧。她对Frances Wasem详尽介绍了这个品牌

的进化史。

难得有时尚巨头在掌控全球商业帝国的同时，还能

如老友一般俏皮打趣，提出温暖贴心的建议，配饰

设计师Anya Hindmarch便是不多的那几个。她品

牌的英伦气息繁盛：低调（她的衣服有着安静态度）

；她喜欢自嘲；她时常迸发出活泼泼的创作火花；她

是个设计狂，具体地说，她对工艺与配饰的完美结

合有着深深迷醉。Hindmarch在时尚行业已然沉浸

已有26年了，她说“如果你能找到一个完美工匠，他

制作出的手包都如乐曲般歌唱。”

正是这种理念使得她的手袋极为抢手——这个

行业竞争极其激烈，手袋争抢着货架空间。为了让

客户一目了然，手袋上都嵌有显眼标识。“我从不沉

迷于设计师的名字，”她说。她砖墙结构的设计工作

室位于伦敦Bermondsey中心，在这里手袋得以精

良设计。“相反，我却极度沉迷于工艺。”这种痴迷

让她前往意大利寻觅精良工艺。她的手袋也在此打

造。她对于细节的关注早已经是业内传奇。工匠们

埋首于制作，往往需要一天时间。手包设计精巧考

究，内里有用来放置手机和笔的精致口袋。她对设

计的执念令人赞叹，黄油般的柔软皮革，鲨鱼皮镶

嵌工艺，甚至服装珠宝也是她浩瀚设计海洋的灵感

珠玉。“我热爱使用过时技术，并希望将他们在现代

工艺里加以解释”她说。

Hindmarch在伦敦东北部的埃塞克斯长大。她

对于配饰的爱恋始于年幼。16岁那年，妈妈送给她

64: Bags For Life

Anya Hindmarch手袋，你值得拥有

如 Terence Conran在1960和70年代，彻底革新了

室内设计和零售设计。他所创立的Habitat品牌已有

50春秋。他最新出版的著作Plain Simple Useful，

详实地反映了他的实用设计理念。

80年代和90年代崛起的设计师Tom Dixon ,

Ron Arad和Ross Lovegrove，在各自的领域里引

领了新的有机工业美学。吸引了来自国外的大设计

师比如Marc Newson以及 Zaha Hadid驻扎于这

个城市。

某种离奇乖张的气氛弥漫在伦敦设计之上，而

这种奇特也贯穿了整个城市时尚。Arad和Dixon都

是自学成才的。“通常来说，当你知识贮备越少，越

不被其他繁盛信息干扰时，你的设计反而越好。你无

需如专家一样工作，或者做任何已然成型的工作。因

为你能带来孩子般的热情，”Dixon解释道，他最近

正在为阿迪达斯的服装品牌线服务。

我并非很擅长于我应该做的事，Arad说，“我觉

得我有时不过是侥幸成功。”他的一个任务是设计

一把椅子，他首先使用隐形胶水将芫荽层层粘合在

一起，然后将胶水的颜色上色，效果看起来好像是

将煤块粘合在岩石上。当然了，这个椅子看起来便更

加有趣。他的另一个任务是设计一辆自行车，车轮

没有轮胎，由许多圈弹簧组成。当这个作品被视作

艺术品而非功能性运输工具时，他却又偏偏反其道

而动之，拍摄视频，证实他可以骑着车沿着伦敦环

行。

近来，设计师比如Thomas Heatherwick和

Barber Osgerby已经展露头角。John Hitchcox所

创办的Yoo公司倡导开放式居住，曼哈顿阁楼公司

联手年轻天才Russell Sage以及Bethan Gray在今

年夏天创始了 Yoo Home，这将是哈罗德最大的单

店品牌。

“经常来伦敦的人会注意到去过十年的宏大变

化”，室内产品设计师Lee Broom如此说，他六年前

开创了他自己事业。“市长帮忙推动设计展会和新建

筑，具有极大的争议性。经济衰退使得小商店和卫

星展会成了新设计人才的重要展示手段。”

设计师和艺术家Rolf Sachs在20年前搬到了伦

敦，他说设计文化在伦敦有着所向披靡的影响力。“

我们可以看见设计文化在伦敦散播，这与伦敦在现

代艺术的重要性上是相吻合。”他说，“这还意味着

我们对于良好设计的需求比原来强烈很多。”这种

需要不只体现在销售上，还在酒吧、餐馆和酒店里。

都市设计领域的竞争愈发激烈，却是寻找灵感的天

堂，让寻觅灵感的人无限激动。”

ajoto.com, conran.com, tomdixon.net,

ronarad.co.uk, rosslovegrove.com,

marc-newson.com, zaha-hadid.com,

heatherwick.com, barberosgerby.com, yoo.com,

homebyyoo.com, leebroom.com, rolfsachs.com

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114

100: When you shop the world,

shop tax free

畅购全球，尊享退税

当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时，

环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free

Shopping）为您节约购物开销。

每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global

Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只

是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联

（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税

过程：

1. 消费购物

无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格

（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小

票。

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当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台

请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联

的退税点领取您的退税款。

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最低消费X£30-£50并且节约高达购买价格11%的

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除管理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位

收取现金退税手续费。

一款过时的古奇手袋点亮了她灵感的花火。一直以

来，这个古旧手袋以及母亲的衣橱给她设计浮光掠

影的灵感。“我认为设计是潜意识的。我妈妈在70

年代是位潮女，我清楚记得当我接过那古奇手袋时，

我的无比兴奋和澎湃激荡的灵感。”

在那之后，Hindmarch的生意蒸蒸日上。不过

19岁，她开始将广告投放于于Harpers & Queen（

现名为Harper’s Bazaar），然后将7000镑的胜利

销售果实带回到她的生意，随后Anya Hindmarch

品牌诞生。1993年，Hindmarch在切尔西开张了第

一家店铺。多年来，她审时度势改变营销战略以发

展此品牌的全球受众。这些营销手段包括2007年“

我不是塑料袋”的环保口号，以期改变人们在超市的

购物习惯。她还打造了时装周生存装备袋，如此诙谐

幽默（满装着头疼片，水，糖果，和创可贴）。营销做

得极为精心，时尚编辑是营销的起始点，时装周开始

之前，便把袋子送出以博眼球。2009年，他们开创

定制业务。Hindmarch认为如今人们对制作极为漠

然，却不晓得这才是真正有趣之处。真正的奢侈在

于理解这些事物怎样量身打造。

如今的Anya Hindmarch已是一个全球现代奢

侈品牌，却还包涵着工坊时代精神——Hindmarch

与她的忠诚团队已共事多年。她最著名的客人包括

剑桥公爵夫人，凯特·摩丝、安吉丽娜·朱莉、卡拉·

迪瓦伊、卡罗琳·伊莎。Anya Hindmarch的丈夫

James Seymour与她一起共事并在她的公司担任

CFO。他们如今在全球已扩张出60家店面。去年

八月，Hindmarch在寸土寸金的曼哈顿开了一家流

光溢彩的旗舰店。作为备受尊敬的商人，她获得的

奖项不胜枚举。2001年她荣获英国时装协会奖最

佳配饰设计师奖，2009年荣获MBE奖，2012年，

Veuve Clicquot 授予她年度女企业家的称号。此

外，她还是设计博物馆和皇家艺术学院理事，被首

相戴维•卡梅伦任命为英国贸易大使。

除却商业荣誉外，她品牌的趣味部分在于她的

幽默感。2012年她的首秀上，精巧的Quality Street

系列出场便引得众人痴醉，手袋状若英国Quality

Street的糖果和巧克力，甜蜜可爱。 2014年秋冬时

装周，她的作品在日常琐事中寻觅奢华，包括家乐氏

可可脆饼盒手拿包，一只形如薯条带子的链条包和

一只Swan Vesta火柴盒子手拿包。

H indmarch工坊成功之处部分来自于所在

地——伦敦的魅力。问到她为何觉得伦敦如此特

别？“这是一个难以令人置信的创意中心，在全球都

赫赫有名。”Hindmarc解释道，“伦敦设计师们极具

冒险精神，事实上，正是这种冒险精神助力于成功。

我们许多天才设计师在他们非常年轻时便创建了

自己的品牌，或者是为许多深富名望的全球品牌工

作——我们为自己的产品感到无比自豪。”

伦敦也因拥有这样的名设计师而熠熠生辉。她

用全球都欣羡的手袋将这个城市牢牢打点在时尚地

图上。当我离开Hindmarch家之时，印在墙上的口

号吸引了我的目光“每个人都需要一个手袋”。大概

是“每个人都需要一个Anya Hindmarch手包。”

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115

دون التسوق من تقدم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blue خدمة أكث من تسوقك ف لدى الال دفع الضيبة Tax Free لتدخر

العال. التسوق حول مناطق أبرز 270,000 متجر ف

دون يتسوقون من الذين فلم ل تنضم إل الـ 26 مليون مسافر دفع الضيبة من خلل غلوبل بلو Global Blue كل سنة؟ ما

عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلوالسهلة. Global Blue وتتبع خطواتنا

1.تسوقأينم تسوقت، أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة الخاص

باليصالت. تحتفظ أن بغلوبل بلو Global Blue وتذكر 2.أطلب

ف طريق العودة إل وطنك، أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطةالغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد

مكاتب الستداد الخاصة بنا.

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عليه مجموع الضيبة عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري. ف بعض الطارات، يفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلباستداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول عل استداد فوري

نقدي.

،When you shop the world

shop tax free: 100

عندما تتسوق حول العال، تسوق من دون دفع الضيبة

بالجلد الحبب غي الدبوغ حتى أنها تستخدم أحيانا الجوهراتف تصاميمها. وتقول: “أحب العمل بالتقنيات التقليدية لكنني

أترجمها بطرق حديثة.”ترعرعت Hindmarch ف Essex، شمل شق لندن. وتفتحت

ها للكسسوارات وهي يافعة ل تبلغ من العمر إل 16 براعم حبعاما عندما أعطتها والدتها حقيبة Gucci التي ل تعد تريدها.

وتأثرت تصاميمها كثيا بالحقيبة )وبخزانة ثياب والدتها(. وأتذكر والدت ف “أعتقد أن التصميم نابع عن لوعينا.

اللحظة التي أعطتني

السبعينيات وأناقتها. إذ ل تزال نصب عينيأتذكر حمستي والشعور الذي فيها حقيبتها Gucci القدية.

أحسست به بفضل هذه الحقيبة.” بعد فتة قصية، أطلقت Hindmarch شكتها ف سن يافعة

عندما بلغت 19 عاما. باشت العمل بنش إعلن ف مجلةHarper’s اليوم اسمها Harpers & Queen )التي بات

Bazaar( وعادت لتستثمر ما جنته من مبيعاتها )أي 7 آلف

Anya جينيه استليني( لتطور شكتها فأبصت بذلك علمةHindmarch التجارية النور. وف العام 1993، افتتحت

Hindmarch أول متجر لها ف مدينة Chelsea. ومع مرور

العوام اعتمدت طرقا تسويقية جديدة شهرت علمتها التجاريةحول العال. وتتضمن هذه الطرق التسويقية شعار “لست كيسابلستيكيا” )I’m not a plastic bag( الشهي الذي ظهر طريقة تسوقنا ف السوبرماركت، والفكرة

ف العام 2007 وغيالذكية بإرسال “حقيبة السعاف ف أسبوع الوضة” )الليئة

بحبوب مكافحة الصداع والياه والسكاكر والضمدات( إل محرريمجلت الزياء قبل بداية أسبوع الوضة، بالضافة إل إطلق خدمةالحقائب الصنوعة حسب الطلب ف العام 2009. وف ما يتعلقبالخدمة الخية تقول Hindmarch: “ل يعد ينتبه الناس إل

طريقة صنع الغراض وهذا ما يثي الهتمم. إذ تكمن الرفاهيةف استيعاب طريقة صنع الشء با يتلءم مع متطلباتك.”

وتعتب علمة Anya Hindmarch اليوم علمة تجارية فاخرةوعالية عل الرغم من طابع الصناعة اليدوية النزلية الذي تتسمبه– وقد مضت أعوام عل عمل فريق Hindmarch معها وليزال اليوم إل جانبها ووفيا لها. ومن بي زبائنها الكث شهرة تبزCaraو Angelina Jolie و Kate Moss دوقة كامبيدج

Hindmarch وتعمل .Caroline Issa و Delevingne

الدارة الالية مع زوجها James Seymourوهو يتول للشكة التي بات لها اليوم حوال 60 متجرا ف كافة أقطاب

العال. وف شهر أغسطس/آب الاض، افتتحت متجرا أساسيا فأن Hindmarch امرأة شك ف مدينة Manhattan. ول أعمل محتمة: إذ حازت عل لقب أفضل مصممة أكسسوارات

لعام 2001 ف حفل توزيع جوائز مجلس الوضة البيطان، كمنالت وسام العضو ف المباطورية البيطانية ف العام 2009،وسمتها دار Veuve Clicquot أفضل سيدة أعمل لعام

2012. إنها اليوم أحد أمناء متحف التصميم والكاديية اللكية

وقد عينها رئيس الوزراء David Cameron سفية التجارة فالملكة التحدة.

وبعيدا عن عال العمل تشكل روحها الرحة جزءا أساسيا منعلمتها التجارية. ضم أول عرض لها ف العام 2012 مجموعة

Quality Street التي تضمنت حقائب مصممة عل أشكال

.Quality Street الحلويات والشوكولتة البيطانية القدية

وتضفي مجموعة خريف/شتاء 2014 عل الحقائب اليومية نكهةالفخامة والرفاهية وتضم حقيبة يدوية عل شكل علبة رقائق

Kellogg’s Coco Pops، وحقيبة كتف بسلسلة عل شكل

كيس رقائق البطاطس القرمشة وأخرى عل شكل علبة كبيت .Swan Vestas

ويعود فضل نجاح Hindmarch ف ما بات يسمى صناعتهاز لندن بنظرها؟ تفس النزلية إل مقرها ف لندن. فم الذي ييقائلة: “هي مركز البداع الرائع الذي ينبض بالحمس عل

ولعل هذه الصعيد العالي. فمصممو لندن ل يخشون الخاطرة.الخاطرة وروح الغامرة يساهمن ف النجاح. إذ إن مصمميموهوبي كثيين يطلقون علماتهم التجارية ف سن يافعة أو

يعملون ف أهم دور الوضة عاليا – ول بد لنا اليوم أن نفتخربالواطني البيطانيي الذين يعملون ف الخارج.”

ول شك ف أن لندن تفتخر بها أيضا فقد رسخت وجود الدينة فساحة الكسسوارات العالية بفضل حقائب تعجب الناس ف كافةأطياف العال. وفيم غادرت منزل Hindmarch، لفت انتباهيشعار نقش عل الجدار: “الجميع بحاجة إل حقيبة.” ولو تكنت

من إضفاء بصمتي عليه لكتبت: “الجميع بحاجة إل حقيبة”.Anya Hindmarch

anyahindmarch.com

globalblue.com

116

Bags For Life :64

حقائب مدى الحياة

شقت Anya Hindmarch طريقها لتصبح من بي أفضلمصممي الكسسوارات ف لندن، وباتت ف يومنا هذا تصنعحقائب جميلة غالبا ما تكون فريدة ومبتكرة. وها هي اليومتتحدث مع Frances Wasem عن الطريق الذي سلكته

علمتها التجارية.

قليلون هم عملقة عال الوضة الذين يتبعون عرش إمباطوريةأعملهم العالية من جهة ويزحون ويقدمون النصائح بكل محبة

وصداقة ف الوقت عينه. إل أن مصممة الكسسوارات Anya Hindmarch فريدة مننوعها. تجمع بي سمت بريطانية جوهرية مختلفة: إنها بسيطة)وبحسب قولها “ل تحب لثيابها أن تصخ”(، وتنتقد نفسهاوتتميز بشارة إبداعية وحيوية ل مثيل لها. كم أنها تكن للتصميمشغفا كبيا، فهي تهتم كثيا بحرفية تصنيع أكسسواراتها. وتقولHindmarch التي دخلت عال الوضة منذ 26 عاما: “لو

عثت عل الحرف الناسب لجعل الحقيبة تغني”.هي إيديولوجية جعلت الحقائب التي تصممها مرغوبة – ففي عالالوضة تكث الحقائب وتتزاحم لضمن مكانها عل الرف وقد ظلت

الحقائب العصية برموزها الصارخة مهيمنة عل الساحة لفتةطويلة. وتقول Hindmarch التي تصمم الحقائب ف مشغلBermondsey خاص بها يغطي القرميد جدرانه ويقع ف قلبف لندن: “لست مهووسة بالعلمات التجارية، إنا أعتب نفس

Hindmarch مهووسة بالحرفة.” وبسبب هذا الهوس توجهتإل إيطاليا حيث باتت تصنع معظم حقائبها. وهي تول التفاصيل

الدقيقة انتباها كبيا. ويحتاج الحرفيون إل يوم كامل لتصنيع حقيبةحسب الطلب. فتضم الخية جيبا مخصصا للجوال والقلم. وتلجأ

Hindmarch ف صناعة الحقائب إل الجلد الناعم وتلبسها

بئتي حدث ف احتفال التصاميم ف لندن وصول إل العروض بدءا .Clerkenwell الحلية كأسبوع التصاميم الخي ف منطقة

وتشكل الدينة جسا يصل بي الوليات التحدة وآسيا وقدتكن موقعها الجغراف من جذب الشكات التجارية الكبية عامةوجعلها وجهة أساسية لتمرس الوضة العاليي. حتى أن تاريخ

الدينة اضطلع بدور ف هذا الجال. ويقول Holden: “عندماتزور لندن ل بد لك أن تلحظ الختلف ف التصاميم والنتجات

والديكورات والهندسة بدءا بالعمرة الجورجية، مرورا بحركة آرتديكو الفنية ووصول إل الهندسة الحديثة. إن فلورنسا اليطالية

جميلة لكنها تعيش عص نهضة ل ينتهي.” وقد خلف التاريخ الحديث بصمته ف لندن أيضا. وف العاصمةالنكليزية نشأ مصممون مبدعون كث وبرزوا عل الساحة مثل

Terence Conran الذي أحدث ثورة ف عال الديكور والبيع

س Conran شكة

بالتجزئة ف الستينيات والسبعينيات. وأسHabitat للثاث التي تحتفل بعيدها الخمسي هذا العام فيم

عكس كتابه Plain Simple Useful نظرياته العملية فالتصميم.

Tom Dixon وف الثمنينيات والتسعينيات لع نجم الصمميو Ron Arad و Ross Lovegrove الرائدين ف استخدامالواد فيهمضوية الصناعية الجديدة، فجذبت لندن نجوما من

حول العال اتخذوها مقرا لهم بن فيها Marc Newson و .Zaha Hadi

ولعل جوا من التناقض يسود عل التصاميم اللندنية كم يقال إنهيسود عل ساحة الوضة ف الدينة. وعل سبيل الثال تعلم كل منArad وDixon التصميم بنفسهم. ويقول Dixon الذي صمم

مؤخرا مجموعة ملبس لعلمة Adidas التجارية: “من الفضللك ف معظم الوقات أل تلك معرفة واسعة وأل تعلم الكثي

عن هذا الجال. فهذا يقيك ش محاولة العمل كالخباء أو تقليدنع من قبل،بالتال تستهل عملك بحمسة طفل يستكشف ما

ما صحوله.”

الرشادات وأحيانا قائل: “ل أبرع ف اتباع Arad وعلقث عن مهمة تصميم كرس تقض

أفلت من العقاب.” ثم تحد

باستخدام غراءشفاف لوصل طبقات الكوريان الرخامي بعضهاببعض. إل أنه اختار أن يلون الغراء ليبدو كطبقات من الفحم بي ف أن النتيجة كانت الحصول عل كرس أجمل

الصخور. ول شكيلفت النتباه أكث. وف مهمة أخرى، صمم دراجة هوائية ل تتألفعجلتها من دواليب عادية إنا من حلقات فولذ ونوابض. وعندماتم اعتبارها قطعة فنية وليس وسيلة نقل عملية، نش شيطا مصورا

لناس يركبون عليها ف شوارع لندن. Thomas وف الونة الخية، ظهر مصممون عل غرار

Heatherwick و Barber Osgerby عل الساحة.

وتعاونت شكة Yoo لتصميم ديكورات النازل الفتوحةالؤسسة عل يد John Hitchcox الذي اكتسب سمعة طيبة

بالعمل مع شكة Manhattan Loft Company معBethan Gray و Russell Sage شباب موهوبي من بينهم

لطلق Yoo Home هذا الصيف. وسيشكل هذا الخي أكب .Harrods متجر لعلمة تجارية واحدة ف داخل متجر

كم أطلق مصمم النتجات الداخلية Lee Broom شكتهلكل من يزور لندن الخاصة منذ 6 أعوام وعلق قائل: “ل بد

بشكل متواصل أن يلحظ كيف تغيت ف العقد السابق، فقد

تطورت. وساعد وجود رئيس البلدية ف إقامة العارض واعتمدهندسة معمرية جديدة، مع أن ذلك قد يبدو مثيا للجدل.

وبسبب الركود ظهرت التاجر الؤقتة والعارض وأثبتت أنها مهمةللمصممي الجدد.”

أما بالنسبة إل الصمم والفنان Rolf Sachs، الذي انتقل إللندن منذ 20 عاما فقد انتش تأثي ثقافة التصميم ليشمل كافةأرجاء الدينة. ويقول: “يكننا أن نلمس انتشار هذا التأثي معتنامي أهمية لندن عل ساحة الفن العاص. هذا يعني أن الناسباتوا يستوعبون الحاجة إل تصميم لفت – ل ف ما يعرض للبيعفحسب، إنا ف الحانات والطاعم والفنادق أيضا. وتشهد النافسةف التصميم نوا ملحوظا ف كافة زوايا الدينة. ول شك ف أن لندن

ب أمل كل من يبحث عن التصاميم الرائعة.” لن تخي،ajoto.com ،conran.com

،tomdixon.net ،ronarad.co.uk

،rosslovegrove.com ،marc-newson.com

،zaha-hadid.com ،heatherwick.com

،barberosgerby.com ،yoo.com

،homebyyoo.com ،leebroom.com

rolfsachs.com

117

ترجمة باللغة العربية

In Focus: The Burberry Trench Coat :52

Burberry تحت الجهر: معطف

Top Of The World :58

عل قمة العال

يعتب معطف Burberry العطف البيطان الكلسيك وبحسبStephen Doig إنه ثروة وطنية.

قليلة هي الثياب التي تتاز بطابعها البيطان كمعطف دارالجميل الذي يقي كل من يرتديه قطرات الطر Burberry

النهمرة ف شتاءلندن عند وصوله أو وصولها بكل أناقة إلشارع Regent Street. وقد بات هذا العطف الكلسيكيشكل جزءا من نسيج التاريخ والثقافة البيطانيي فاضطلع

بدور ف أعظم لحظات البلد وأهمها ودعم الصناعة البيطانيةالتي تساهم ف الحفاظ عل الجتمعات. ظهرت تصاميم وأشكال

Burberry مختلفة للمعطف ف عهد الدير البداعي الحال لدارChristopher Bailey – من العطف الخصور والشمر

مع الخرز والحشو والصنوع من القمش الرقيق والرقط ببقعالطلء – إل أنه حافظ عل مكانته كقطعة ثياب كلسيكية لكث

من مئة عام. ساهم هذا العطف ف حمية شخصيات تاريخية مهمة من الطر

Winston Churchillو Humphrey Bogart ومن بينهاDiana وأمية وايلز الراحلة Audrey Hepburn و

فاستحال جزءا ل يتجزأ من تاريخ Burberry وبريطانيا ف عالThomas الوضة. ففي العام 1856 باش التدرب ف الخياطةBurberry العمل لطلق دار تصميم ملبس ف الهواء الطلق

وسعان ما شاعت الثيات التي صممها بي أفراد الجيش لغراضعسكرية. وف العام 1912 حصلت دار Burberry عل براءةاختاع معطف طويل يسمى Tielocken وبات يعرف لحقابتسمية trench coat تم تصميمه لحمية ضباط الجيش

والبحرية من طقس بريطانيا القاس. ول ينفك الضباط يرتدونهذه العاطف حتى خارج دوام الخدمة. كم تم إضفاء بعض

تان تعلق التعديلت عل العطف لغراض عسكرية فأضيفت كتفيبهم الشارات العسكرية ووفقا لفولكور الزياء علقت الغراض

.D العسكرية عل مشبك الحزام الذي يأخذ شكل حرفويعد معطف Burberry فريدا من نوعه بفضل النسيج

البتكاري الصنع منه. إذ اختع Thomas Burberry قمشالغبدين التي الذي استخدم تقليديا لصناعة هذا العطف. وقبلظهور قمش الغبدين لجأ الناس إل تغطية معاطفهم بالطاط أو

الشمع بهدف الوقاية من الياه إل أن هذه العملية أثقلت العاطفالتي أمست غي مريحة. لكن، وعب زيادة الكثافة والخيوط، ابتكرت

دار Burberry قمشا يؤمن التهوئة ويكون ف الوقت عينهمتينا يحول دون تسب الياه، ليسلك تصميم العاطف بذلك

مسارا جديدا. بالضافة إل وقاية أجيال من البيطانيي من الطر، حمى العطفعاملي ماهرين كث من البطالة. إذ تصنع معاطف Burberry فCastleford شمل انكلتا عل يد حرفيي يزجون بي الهارات

التقليدية والتكنولوجيا الحديثة. ويصنع قمش الغبدين هناد أن ل شائبة تشوبه. فتتطلب صناعة ويفحص بالعي الجردة للتأك

معطف واحد ثلثة أسابيع وأكث من مئة خطوة يفتض اللتزام بها. أما قبة العطف فمعقدة للغاية وعل الحرفيي أن يخضعوا لتدريب

طوال عام كامل ليتعلموا طريقة خياطة هذه القطعة فيضمنواتغطيتها الرقبة بكل سلسة ونعومة. ويقطع القمش ويخاط يدويا

لصناعة ثنية الظهر وتفاصيل الكمم والحزام. ول تتغي الثنيةالسائدة ف أيام ركوب الخيل التي تتوسط ظهر العطف لتضمن

سهولة التحرك والتهوئة. سواء وقع اختياركم عل العطف الكلسيك بلون الكاراميل وبطانةBurberry الشهية التي يسهل التعرف إليها أم عل اللون

العدن منه، فعندما ترتدون معطف Burberry اعلموا أنكمترتدون قطعة من التاريخ البيطان والخبة الحرفية.

burberry.com

تساهم ساحة لندن البداعية الزدهرة – بنجومها البارعيومبدعيها العاصين اللمعي ومواهبها الصاعدة – ف ترسيخ مكانةالدينة كعاصمة التصميم العالية. وها هو Josh Sims يتحدث

عن زبدة الصممي ف لندن.

عندما أنهى الصمم Chris Holden دراسته ف شمل شقالملكة التحدة، كان عل يقي بضورة ذهابه إل مكان معي

واحد ليطلق مع شيكه شكة Ajoto للكسسوارات الحديثة. وقال “هي لندن؛ نحن نصنع النتجات ف كافة أطياف الملكةالتحدة إل أن وجودنا ف لندن ضوري. فقد باتت العاصمة

اليوم صالة عرض عالية. لذلك ل مكان فيها للتصاميم الرديئة. وتتميز بناخ التنافسية الذي يسيطرعليها.”

The New ف الواقع، أعلن ناقد تصاميم ف مقال له ف صحيفةYork Times منذ عامي أن لندن قد تفوقت عل مدينة

. وقدم العالينيويورك وحلت مكانها لتصبح الركز البداعيالناقد حججا قوية مستندا إل مدارس الفن والتصميم الرموقة فلندن وسمعة عروض تصاميمها الطيبة التي باتت اليوم عالية –

،

118 | PRODUCTS

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