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LO
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/16
Page 48
BEST-DRESSED
BEAR:
Paddington models
the versatile dufel
coat for SHOP
| LONDON | ЛОНДОН | 伦敦لندن
Welcome to London
Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you
discover the very best of this sophisticated European fashion and design
hub. London has much to ofer, as our guide on page 76 reveals. Readers
who appreciate classic British design will enjoy our feature on the dufel
coat (page 48), and in this issue we also meet accessories queen Lulu
Guinness (page 54) and profle the top labels adopting a newly artisanal
look (page 60).
SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader
that helps you save up to 14% when shopping in the UK. We publish
guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international
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Emma Cheevers
EDITOR’S LETTER
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CONTRIBUTORS
14
Nick Ellwood
British illustrator Nick
Ellwood created this season’s
cover illustration for the
luxury edition of SHOP
London. His detailed line
drawing and sharp character
observation made him the
perfect choice to reimagine
Paddington Bear, the famous
children’s character known for
his dufel coat. Inspired
by our feature on page 48
about this versatile coat,
it shows Paddington on a
prestigious shopping street
in the city – surrounded
by equally well-dressed
Londoners. Nick’s other
clients include the BBC, the
Guardian and Warner Bros.
Explore our archive of SHOP
magazine cover illustrations at
globalblue.com/covers.
ILL
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: NIC
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globalblue.com
Karen Munnis
Writer and fashion stylist
Karen Munnis has
contributed to the Hufngton
Post, Motilo.com, Fashion
magazine, the Globe & Mail
and British Glamour. Her
stylist clients include Sony
Music, MTV and the BBC.
Sarah Beyts
Sarah Beyts, SHOP’s creative
editor and deputy picture
editor, commisions the
magazine’s covers, which are
created by some of the world’s
best illustration talent. Sarah
enjoys capturing the world
through her camera.
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Harriet Quick
Fashion journalist Harriet
Quick has held senior roles
at the Guardian newspaper
and British Vogue, where she
was the title’s fashion features
director for over a decade. She
has interviewed many of the
fashion world’s biggest stars.
16
SHOP FLOOR
E DI TOR I A L
Editor-in-chief
Emma Cheevers
PU BL I SH I NG
Publisher
James Morris
Online managing editor
Kirsty Welsh
Online production assistant
Marina Nelson
Online writer
Emily Scrivener
Chinese editor
Yuan Fang
Associate Chinese editor
Junjie Dou
Chinese contributing editor
Qingya He
Chinese editorial assistants
Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liang
Chinese translators
Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi, Aiyang Zou
Russian editor
Anastasia Nemchenok
Russian editorial assistant
Karina Starobina
Russian translators
Diana Fitkulina, Teena Garnik,
Gary Ramazanov
Arabic editor
Haneen Malaeb
Dane Consultancy
Commercial editor
Gemma Latham
Commercial artworking assistant
Samantha Junak
Commercial artworking intern
Kiranjeet Kaur
AVP business development manager
Patrice Janet
Chief executive officer
Jacques Stern
SHOP is published
by Global Blue
Group headquarters
Global Blue SA,
Route de Crassier 7,
CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland
Corporate registration number
5565726923
globalblue.com
Managing editor/ acting features editor
Sally McIlhone
Cover illustrator
Nick Ellwood
Contributors
Maria Kirchen-Hill,
Karen Munnis, Harriet Quick,
Frances Wasem
Production editor
Caterina Mazzolai
Acting production editor
Ruairidh Pritchard
Production assistant
Katie Muxworthy
City guide and lifestyle editor
Isabella Redmond Styles
Fashion editor
Ximena Daneri
News editor
Hannah Lewis
Fashion and news assistant
Theresa Harold
Fashion coordinator
Fani Mari
Chief sub-editor
Hester Lacey
Copy editors
Katie Davis, Sue Flook,
Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew,
Harriet O’Brien
Picture editor
Kirsty Andrews
Creative editor/deputy picture editor
Sarah Beyts
Assistant picture editor
Grace Bird
Picture assistants
Mónica R Goya, Charlotte Rogers
Art direction
Design by S-T
Artwork editor
Simon Thompson
Artworking assistants
Aaron Carline, Dionne Hélène,
Milkha Lala Artworking intern
Tom Knight
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue
GL OBA L BLU E U K
Vice president sales Northern Europe
Richard Brown
Head of commercial UK & Ireland
Gordon Clark
UK sales manager
Peter Blake
UK key accounts sales manager
Darren Waite
UK marketing sales manager
Kimberly Urbaniak
Marketing account manager
Patrick Prior
International key account managers
Barbara Badelt, Richard Harvey
Key account managers
Onkar Badesha, Sarah Farag,
Ramesh Juneja, Jerry Junkere,
Mike Shrimpton, Sunni Sokhi,
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Account managers
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Regional tourist office
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London and Partners
Advertising enquiries
Contact Patrick Prior:
PADDINGTON™ and PADDINGTON BEAR™
© Paddington and Company Limited 2015
Paddington Bear™, Paddington™ and PB™
are trademarks of Paddington and
Company Limited
Licensed by Copyrights Group
www.paddington.com
Head of digital
Eamonn Leacy
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BOND S TREE T | THE V I L LAGE , WES T F I E LD LONDON SLOANE S TREE T | L EDBURY ROAD | PONT S TREE T
ANYAH INDMARCH .COM
CONTENTS
18
Above: Mary Katzantrou’s autumn/winter 2015/16 collection features dufel coats in colourful prints
PRODUCTS
22 Check Out
SHOP selects a standout piece from
London this season
24 Products
Key looks for the season, from fashion and
footwear to jewellery and accessories
32 Street Style
Our pick of the best dressed during
London Fashion Week
N E WS
36 Shop Window
One store not to be missed in London
38 News
Seasonal updates on shops, services and
new products
F E AT U R E S
48 Cover Story: Top Coat
This season’s versatile dufel is seen in
versions that range from decidedly retro to
thoroughly modern, writes Karen Munnis
54 A Very British Wit
Lulu Guinness is celebrating 25 years
in the fashion industry. Frances Wasem
meets the mischievous, humorous,
quintessentially British designer
60 Show of Hands
London’s most exciting designers are
adopting artisanal techniques, to stunning
efect. Harriet Quick profles the labels
seeking out the handmade, the authentic
and the crafted
p.48
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Fall-Winter 2015
CONTENTS
20
E SSE N T I A L S94 How To Shop Tax Free
The simple steps to saving money on your shopping
T R A NSL AT IONS95 Русский Перевод100 美文翻译
يبرع 105
SOU V E N I R106 The essential item to bring home
E X PE R I E NCE68 Table Talk
London’s seafood restaurants hold their own among the best in the world. Isabella Redmond Styles picks out some top eateries where fsh is the dish of the day
72 Stay In Style
SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels
GU I DE76 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas
of London90 My Neighbourhood
Designer Roland Mouret takes SHOP on a tour of London’s Mayfair district
ONLINE
ENGLISH | Р УС СКИЙ | 中文
The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com
Follow the Global Blue editors
on the move for up-to-the-
minute shopping tips and
insider information.
@shopcontent
/globalblue
/globalblue
@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue
@GlobalBlue
/GlobalBlue
/GlobalBlueRu
GET SOCIAL
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FASHION
COMPETITIONS
E S T A B L I S H E D M O R E T H A N 7 5 Y E A R S A G O ,A T R I G B Y & P E L L E R W E ’ R E B E S T K N O W N F O R
O U R P I O N E E R I N G L I N G E R I E S T Y L I N G S E R V I C E ,O U R P R O U D L O N D O N H E R I T A G E , A N D , O F C O U R S E ,
O U R E X P E R T L Y C U R A T E D C O L L E C T I O N S O FB E A U T I F U L L Y M A D E L I N G E R I E .
W W W . R I G B Y A N D P E L L E R . C O . U K
V I S I T O U R F L A G S H I P K N I G H T S B R I D G E B O U T I Q U E
2 H A N S R O A D , L O N D O N , S W 3 1 R X I 0 2 0 7 2 2 5 4 7 6 0
CHECK OUT
22 | PRODUC TS
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technologically driven designs, and this bag certainly fts that description. It is easy to see why this beautiful, functional and, above all, clever range has already become one of the brand’s icons. Available in a variety of colours, the Guston collection also includes clutches, shoulder bags and shoppers, all reversible in the same innovative way. hlIssey Miyake Guston bags, £2,085 each, Issey Miyake, 10 Brook Street, London W1S 1BG, +44 (0)20 7851 4620, isseymiyake.com * for map go to page 81
OUTSIDE IN
Formed from a single piece of high-quality leather and completely reversible, the Guston bag by Issey Miyake is a truly versatile piece. Unzip the classic black tote and re-zip it inside out to reveal a boldly coloured, graphically printed version of the same bag. The reverse of the black leather has been lovingly printed and laminated to create an eye-catching textured efect. Issey Miyake is known for experimental,
1
24 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 94
1. Burberry Prorsum jacket, £2,195, Burberry, 121 Regent Street, London W1B 4TB, +44 (0)20 7806 8904, burberry.com
2. Acne Studios ring, £170, Acne Studios, 13 Dover Street, London W1S 4LN, +44 (0)20 7629 9374, acnestudios.com
3. Solange Azagury-Partridge
earrings, £4,800, Solange Azagury-Partridge, 5 Carlos Place, London W1K 3AP, +44 (0)20 7792 0197, solange.co.uk
RED ALERT
Nothing warms up winter like a cosy coat and accessories in shades of scarlet
1
4
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4. Ex Nihilo Venenum Kiss eau de
parfum, 50ml, £150, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, ex-nihilo-paris.com
globalblue.com
SHOP | 25
9. Chloé Hudson bag, from £1,230, Chloé, 152-153 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9BX, +44 (0)20 7823 5348, chloe.com
7. Miu Miu shoes, £555, Miu Miu, 150 New Bond Street, London W1S 2TU, +44 (0)20 7409 0900, miumiu.com
8. Lanvin necklace, £1,230, Lanvin, 128 Mount Street, London W1K 3NU, +44 (0)20 7491 1839, lanvin.com
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5. Gucci beret, £160, Gucci, 34 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4QL, +44 (0)20 7629 2716, gucci.com
6. Bulgari Lucea watch, £19,100, Bulgari, 153A New Bond Street, London W1S 4RE, +44 (0)20 7872 9969, bulgari.com
26 | PRODUCTS
1
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1. Marc by Marc Jacobs General
coat, £800, Marc by Marc Jacobs,
56 South Audley Street,
London W1K 2RR,
+44 (0)20 7408 7050,
marcjacobs.com
2. Cartier watch, from £25,200,
Cartier, 175-177 New Bond Street,
London W1S 4RN,
+44 (0)20 7408 5700, cartier.com
ARMY SURPLUS
Accessories in grey and khaki bring out the military edge of this coat
and a slick of deep red lipstick fnishes the look
1 2 3
4
4. Barbour for Land Rover gloves,
£59.95, Barbour, St Martin’s Courtyard,
134 Long Acre, London WC2E 9AA,
+44 (0)20 7240 5061,
barbour.com
3. Chanel Rouge Coco Shine
lipstick, £25, Chanel Beauty Boutique,
The Market, Covent Garden Piazza,
London WC2E 8RF,
+44 (0)20 7240 2001, chanel.com
SHOP | 27
globalblue.com
5. 7 For All Mankind jeans, £225,
7 For All Mankind, 11B King Street,
London WC2E 8HN,
+44 (0)20 7240 1294,
7forallmankind.com
6. Nixon Mini Blaster speaker, £89,
Nixon, 6 Newburgh Street,
London W1F 7RQ,
+44 (0)20 7434 4519,
nixon.com
7. Cos shoes, £135, Cos,
130-131 Long Acre,
London WC2E 9AA,
+44 (0)20 3426 7530,
cosstores.com
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8. Alexander McQueen bag, £1,295,
Alexander McQueen,
4-5 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4PD,
+44 (0)20 7355 0088,
alexandermcqueen.com
CHECK THIS
Mix tartans and plaids in subtle shades for a fashion-forward look
28 | PRODUC TS
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1. Z Zegna shirt, £175, Ermenegildo Zegna, 78 New Bond Street, London W1S 1RZ, +44 (0)20 7518 2700, zegna.com
2. Coach document case, £230, Coach, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7589 2851, coach.com
4. Tod’s trainers, £285, Tod’s, 2-5 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4PE, +44 (0)20 7493 2237, tods.com
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3. Vivienne Westwood James Bond
trousers, £374, Vivienne Westwood Man, 18 Conduit Street, London W1S 2XN, +44 (0)20 7478 2060, viviennewestwood.com
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E X P E R I E N C E T H E N E W L U X U R Y L I F E S T Y L E
Welcome to the world of Porsche Design. A world that stays eternally young, fresh, and cool by passionately
driving for innovation. A world where new quality materials, technologies, and finest functional elegance blend into
a truly exclusive, iconic contemporary design. Some call it luxury? We call it essentials for a challenging future.
We are proud to design for the men and women of tomorrow.
www.porsche-design.com
Porsche Design London | 59 Brompton Road | +44 [ 0 ] 20 75814442
Porsche Design Harrods | 87–135 Brompton Road | +44 [ 0 ] 20 78938878
CHRONOTIMER SERIES 1
DEEP BLUE – Polished titanium
chronograph with deep blue
accents. A fusion of elegance
and sportiness. Swiss Made.
Porsche Design
Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 94
1. Moncler jacket, £1,655, Moncler, 197 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9QX, +44 (0)20 7235 0857, moncler.com
2. Shinola Runwell pocket watch,
£645, Shinola, 13 Newburgh Street, London W1F 7RS, +44 (0)20 7287 0155, shinola.co.uk
3. Giorgio Armani briefcase,
price on request, Giorgio Armani, 37 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9LP, +44 (0)20 7235 6232, armani.com
4. Etro boots, £575, Etro, 43 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4QT, +44 (0)20 7493 9004, etro.com
5. Acqua di Parma Colonia Club
fragrance, 100ml, £81, John Lewis, 300 Oxford Street, London W1A 1EX, +44 (0)20 7629 7711, acquadiparma.com
SMART GUY
Luxe accessories and fne fragrance are must-haves in any stylish gentleman’s dressing room
1
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STREET
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The stylish women of London prove that beige is anything but boring, using this classic shade as a base note to ground more daring shapes and prints
Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 94
32 | ST R E E T ST Y L E
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STREET
STYLE
Liven up traditional tailoring with the help of bold colours, stripes and checks – add a touch of the unexpected with strong accessories and sporty pieces
Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 94
34 | ST R E E T ST Y L E
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SHOP WINDOW
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Cárdenas. Trompe l’oeil has been a key feature throughout her collections since she established her eponymous brand in 2007, so it is only ftting that her signature style – which sees earrings and rings appear to foat – should be refected in the design of her boutique. The Roman designer is a frm favourite among the fashion crowd. If you haven’t discovered her uniquely luxurious jewellery yet, this is the perfect place to make its acquaintance. hlDelfna Delettrez,109 Mount Street, London W1K 2TR,+44 (0)20 7629 5550,delfnadelettrez.com
* for map go to page 80
SIGNATURE STYLE
The Delfna Delettrez fagship on Mayfair’s Mount Street, which opened in early 2015, is the jewellery designer’s frst standalone in London and stocks her full collection. The striking space is almost other-worldly – much like some of the jeweller’s creations – and uses deep ocean greens and blues, gold fttings and sparse lighting to create an ethereal feel. Polished metals and huge mirrors create an ‘infnity efect’ which Delettrez conceived in collaboration with architect Rafael de
Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 94
38 | N E WS
GOLD STANDARD
French haute parfumerie is reinterpreted by Atelier Des Ors in a new line of fve modern, elegant and sophisticated fragrances. The perfumes, with their musk and amber scents and notes of leather, classic rose and warm vanilla, are inspired by the Middle East, and made by outstanding craftsmen – as are the bottles they are
presented in. The Paris-based house uses symbols of the sun and of light, decorating the bottles with striking gold rays, an opulent design infuenced by art deco and a tribute to the golden era of French haute parfumerie. Atelier Des Ors is available exclusively at Harrods. fm
Atelier Des Ors, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL,+44 (0)20 7730 1234,atelierdesors.com
* for map go to page 85
SWEET SURPRISES
Anyone with a sweet tooth will be glad to know that acclaimed Belgian chocolatier Maison Pierre Marcolini now has a standalone store in London. The bright and spacious store on Marylebone High Street ofers the brand’s luxurious, beautiful and – above all – delicious creations. It is home to a bespoke chocolate
counter, a macaroon carousel, a sweetie bar, a tasting area, a chocolate library and much more. The fagship will also ofer exclusive items unavailable anywhere else in the UK, including delectable freshly made eclairs. mkh
Maison Pierre Marcolini, 37 Marylebone High Street, London W1U 4QE,+44 (0)20 7486 7196, marcolini.com
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STORY HEADING
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Address and Telephonewebsite
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SHOP | 39
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SHOP | 39
TOP TAILORING
The impressive Brunello Cucinelli fagship on London’s Burlington Gardens is the brand’s second-largest store in the world, second only to its Tokyo fagship. A sleek space with white walls, polished foors and antique furniture, the store was revamped and reopened a year ago, unveiling a huge upstairs space devoted entirely
to menswear. The brand is known for combining the formal with the casual, but has recently expanded its formal oferings, and the suits and shirts are standout pieces in the latest collection. As well as apparel, men can explore a wide range of accessories, shoes, and even candles. hl
Brunello Cucinelli, 3 Burlington Gardens, London W1S 3EP, +44 (0)20 7287 4347, brunellocucinelli.com
* for map go to page 81
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WHO’S THE BOSS?
Renovated and reopened in 2015, the Boss store on New Bond Street is now bigger and better than ever, and a must-visit for fans of this German brand. Over three foors, the store ofers menswear, womenswear and accessories, presented in a cleverly designed space that contrasts matte and high-gloss materials to create a modern and sophisticated aesthetic – the perfect backdrop for the collections. As well as Boss ready-to-wear, accessories and sportswear, a made-to-measure service can be found on the lower level, allowing clients to get exactly what they want. mkh
Boss, 122 New Bond Street, London W1S 1DT, +44 (0)20 7499 5605,hugoboss.com
* for map go to page 81
Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 94
40 | N E WS
PARISIAN CHIC
French fashion brand Céline’s new fagship is now open at 103 Mount Street, further enhancing the street’s credentials as a destination for luxury shopping. Designed by creative director Phoebe Philo and featuring bespoke objects by Danish artist Fos, the store’s interior is luxurious, warm and feminine,
BURBERRY PRESENTS THOMAS’S
Quintessentially British brand Burberry has expanded its global fagship on Regent Street with Thomas’s, an exclusive area dedicated to gifts and all-day dining with a British theme. Thomas’s celebrates the best of British craftsmanship and creativity. The gift section ofers a seasonal collection created exclusively for the Regent Street store, together with products for the home, travel goods and more; all can be personalised, hand-embossed and wrapped in the store. The café ofers the fnest quality seasonal produce from small farmers and artisanal suppliers from around the UK. Burberry’s Regent Street store, which opened in 2012, is recognised as one of the most exciting and interactive fagships in the city. fm
Burberry, 121 Regent Street, London W1B 4TB, +44 (0)20 7806 8904,burberry.com * for map go to page 84
with many subtle touches throughout. This showcase of Céline’s trademark house qualities, for collections and interiors alike, refects the brand’s respect for fne craftsmanship, rare raw materials, research and innovation. kmCéline, 103 Mount Street, London W1K 2AP, +44 (0)20 7491 8200, celine.com
* for map go to page 80
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FenwickofBondStreet @FenwickBondSt FenwickBondSt
In brief:
– Vel-Oh,
a London-
based brand
offering unique
accessories
for the style-
conscious cyclist,
is now available
at Selfridges. We
love the versatile
Vel-Oh tote bag
WELL-TRAVELLED WEMPE
Inspired by some of the favourite destinations of Wempe’s creative director Catherine Plouchard, the Cosmora rings from the By Kim range are some of the brand’s most artistic pieces to date. Plouchard and Kim-Eva Wempe – the two women at the helm of this historic company – are frm believers in jewellery that fts into a woman’s life, that is luxurious and beautiful yet made to be worn. In line with this philosophy, the three new rings in this collection, Cape Town, Tokyo and Route 66, are exquisite pieces that can be worn every day. Crafted from 18-carat white gold and set with diamonds, the rings are engraved with fuid lines to represent the natures of the diferent places that inspired them. hlWempe,43-44 New Bond Street, London W1S 2SA, +44 (0)20 7493 2299,wempe.com
* for map go to page 81
Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 94
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GENTLEMAN’S CORNER
Visitors to the Bally fagship on New Bond Street should not miss the chance to explore the exclusive service on ofer in the Gentleman’s Corner. Dedicated to illustrating the brand’s expertise in shoemaking and shoe care, Bally has made a select range of its classic men’s shoes available for customisation. While a wide range of colours is available, the Made to Colour service allows clients to order shoes in any other colour imaginable, with the exact shade realised by experts in store. An additional maintenance service makes the store a testament to Bally’s commitment to great service and genuine innovation. mkh
Bally, 45-46 New Bond Street, London W1S 2SF, +44 (0)20 7499 0057, bally.com
* for map go to page 81
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CHOO SHOE HEAVEN
The Jimmy Choo Townhouse, the brand’s biggest space in London, is an unmissable destination for anyone who loves shoes. Following a recent expansion and renovation, the fagship looks better than ever, its newly revealed original terracotta façade leading into a beautiful space over three foors, connected by a luxurious marble staircase. Suspended in this central staircase is a striking art installation by Iranian artist and Turner Prize nominee Shirazeh Houshiary, an eye-catching twisted matrix in blue and purple which brings serious drama to the space. The store ofers the full Jimmy Choo collection, the Made to Order service, and a VIP room. mkh
Jimmy Choo, 27 New Bond Street, London W1S 2RH,+44 (0)20 7493 5858, jimmychoo.com
* for map go to page 81
JEWELLERY BOX
The new jewellery department in Fenwick of Bond Street, which opened in May 2015, showcases an eclectic mix of brands. The space, which was designed by the team behind the Wolseley and the Delaunay restaurants, covers 1,566 square feet and features a private area for clients who wish to sit and enjoy a glass of Champagne while browsing the spectacular
jewellery on display. From casual items such as a personalised charm necklace to elaborate diamond pieces akin to works of art, there is something for every occasion. Many brands on ofer are exclusive to Fenwick, so clients can discover designers that they may never have come across before. thFenwick, 63 New Bond Street, London W1S 1RQ, +44 (0)20 7629 9161, fenwick.co.uk
* for map go to page 81
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DANISH DESIGN
The new Georg Jensen store on Mount Street showcases the brand’s redesigned interiors. Developed in partnership with Danish architect David Thulstrup, the modern setting features metallic art deco elements and sculptural lighting fxtures; the boutique’s clean lines, smooth surfaces and natural materials refect the trademarks of the Scandinavian aesthetic. The shop carries the complete range of Georg Jensen’s gold jewellery, as well as the brand’s Archive and Vintage jewellery ranges, silverware, Jordan Askill and Marc Newson collections, and also the newly launched Men’s Universe collection of pens, wallets and belts. Clients can also request bespoke services. thGeorg Jensen, 89 Mount Street, London W1K 2SR, +44 (0)20 7499 6541,georgjensen.com
* for map go to page 80
PURE BEAUTY
Renowned department store Fortnum & Mason, found on Piccadilly, has unveiled a brand new foor dedicated to beauty and perfume. Situated on the second foor of the iconic store, the beauty department ofers fne fragrance, beauty products, bath and body products and loungewear, as well as treatments in the Bamford Haybarn spa. Fortnum & Mason has worked with the designers at Waldo Works to create an intimate experience for the customer. There are fve main areas including the Heritage Hall, the Contemporary Gallery and the Perfumery, each with
In brief:
— Google Shop,
the brand’s first
store in the world,
recently opened
on Tottenham
Court Road and
is a must-visit for
tech-heads
— Versus,
Versace’s
acclaimed
diffusion line, will
soon open its
first standalone
store in London,
choosing hip
Shoreditch as the
perfect location
for its fashion-
forward wares
diferent inspirations, from art and culture to semi-precious stones and exclusive scents. fmFortnum & Mason,181 Piccadilly, London W1A 1ER, +44 (0)20 7734 8040,fortnumandmason.com
* for map go to page 84
SHOP | 45
globalblue.com
NEW YORK IN LONDON
Founded in New York in 1837, Tifany & Co is one of the handful of elite luxury brands that can genuinely be described as iconic. In July 2015, the internationally renowned jeweller brought a touch of New York’s Fifth Avenue to premium London department store Selfridges. The company has relocated and expanded within the store, presenting a new space that is bigger and better than ever. Featuring a one-of-a-kind ceiling sculpture by Tomás Saraceno, the interior design explores the use of light and refraction – ftting for a brand renowned for its brilliant diamonds. The shop features a private sales room and a bridal salon where clients can enjoy Champagne while browsing the stunning range of Tifany jewellery. This is London’s ninth Tifany store and 10th in the UK. thTifany & Co, Selfridges,400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB,+44 0800 123400 (UK),+44 (0)113 369 8040 (international),tifany.com
* for map go to page 80
MAKE IT YOUR OWN
For the frst time, Salvatore Ferragamo presents a made-to-order incarnation of its iconic men’s Driver shoe. The structure of the Driver shoe is unique to Ferragamo, a tribute to innovation which combines the original Ferragamo moccasin with the modern driving shoe. The new made-to-order service, available at the brand’s Old Bond Street fagship, allows customers to make their own version of the shoe to refect their personal style. Fans of the brand can take their pick from over 100 diferent variations in upper, sole construction and hardware. Their chosen style can be made up in a vast array of colours and a number of luxurious materials, including crocodile, ostrich and Condor calf skin. hlSalvatore Ferragamo, 24 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4AL, +44 (0)20 7629 5007,ferragamo.com
* for map go to page 82
s a n d r o - p a r i s . c o m
s e e t h e f i l m o n s a n d r o - p a r i s . c o m
f a l l / w i n t e r 1 5 / 1 6
This season’s dufel is seen in versions that range from decidedly retro to
thoroughly modern – all variations work equally well for this versatile classic,
writes Karen Munnis
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50 | FEATURES
Previous page: Gloverall dufel coat toggles
The winter dufel coat, a versatile, unisex
fashion favourite, is as much a classic
as the springtime trench. For autumn/
winter 2015/16, many designers have looked to
the past for inspiration for this function-meets-
fashion outerwear.
The coat’s name is believed to come from
the Belgian town of Dufel and the thick
woollen material of the same name made there,
but the dufel’s design, with its signature large
hood and toggle fastenings, is distinctively
British. Early versions were made in the late
19th century by the John Partridge workwear
company from Rugeley in Stafordshire.
The dufel was frst widely worn in the
early 1900s by the British navy, who favoured
a camel version of the coat to protect them
from harsh conditions at sea – with the added
advantage that its loose-ftting shape and
spacious hood ftted over a naval uniform
and hat. The dufel was later nicknamed the
Monty coat, as it was worn by Field Marshal
Montgomery so that his men could easily
identify him.
Sales of military surplus clothing to the
public popularised the dufel coat, which
became a widespread wardrobe staple in the
1950s and 60s. Fans included Jean Cocteau,
who wore a white version. The toggle buttons
and large hood were also added to children’s
coats, and Paddington Bear wears a blue
version. The dufel became a favourite of the
music industry, worn by Glaswegian band
Belle and Sebastian, and all members of Oasis
are sporting a black version on the cover of the
band’s 1995 single Roll With It.
British brand Gloverall bought a
consignment of the military-issue dufel coats,
and in 1954, started producing its own version
of the coat, which it continues to design today.
What accounts for the dufel’s continued
popularity? ‘It comes down to form and
function. The dufel coat has earned its place
as an iconic British garment and a timeless
wardrobe essential because it looks efortlessly
stylish from one season to the next, while doing
an impeccable job of keeping you warm and
dry when the weather turns,’ says Mark Smith,
sales and marketing director for the brand.
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Above (clockwise from bottom left): Gloverall advertisement from 1993; duffel coats were originally designed for the British navy; Gloverall Classics collection short slim-fit women’s duffel coat in red; Mary Katzantrou’s autumn/winter 2015/16 collection features duffels in colourful prints
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This season’s varied
takes on the duffel
coat, from classic retro
references to quilted
versions to bold high-
tech prints, prove its
versatility
Like the trench coat, with its similarly
solid heritage, the dufel coat’s long-lasting
appeal lies in its wearability and warmth during
the cold winter months. The Gloverall team
continues to reference its classic elements
when designing the rest of the brand’s
collection. ‘Details like the wooden or horn
toggle fastenings and rope or leather loops are
synonymous with the dufel coat and are used
throughout our Classic Collection. Elsewhere,
the dufel remains a key inspiration when it
comes to defning the protective elements of
each jacket which we produce, so even the more
lightweight styles have a technical build quality
developed to stand up to the elements while
looking super-contemporary,’ says Smith.
For its autumn/winter 2015/16 collection,
called 1951, Gloverall took inspiration from
historic sporting stories, such as black-and-
white photographs of 1950s British Formula
One racing driver Tony Brooks wearing the
classic Monty coat. This season, the boiled
wool style is more streamlined and includes
appliqué racing-inspired motifs and pins.
Gloverall isn’t the only brand that has
turned to the past for dufel coat design
inspiration. British label Ben Sherman
redesigned the coat for autumn/winter 2015/16.
‘It came about because we were looking into
garments that have had an afliation with
British youth culture,’ says Mark Williams,
head of design at Ben Sherman. ‘When worn
over a blazer it becomes the new wool parka
for the season, and moves on the classic mod
silhouette.’
The dufel coat goes modern for autumn/
winter 2015/16, too. For his Raft collection,
menswear designer Christopher Raeburn
worked with a high-quality Italian nylon and
added a moody rust print to create an updated,
quilted dufel coat.
The dufel has been adopted by
womenswear designers, too. For her autumn/
winter 2015/16 collection, which she has
described as ‘heritage opulence versus techy
utopia’, Mary Katrantzou sent models down the
catwalk wearing dufel coats emblazoned with
her bold signature prints, worn with high heels
and opaque coloured tights.
The dufel adopts these thoroughly modern
facelifts as efortlessly as it does the retro
references seen elsewhere; there can surely be
few coat styles as adaptable
gloverall.com, bensherman.com,
christopherraeburn.co.uk,
marykatrantzou.com
Above: Gloverall 1951 collection autumn/winter 2015/16
SHOP | 53
Above (clockwise from top lef): Mary Katrantzou; Christopher Raeburn has updated the dufel coat with a rust print in quilted material; Ben Sherman, all autumn/winter 2015/16
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Lulu Guinness, known for her iconic Lips clutch bag, is celebrating 25 years in the fashion industry. Frances Wasem meets the mischievous, humorous,
quintessentially British designer
A VERY
BRITISH
WIT
Above (from lef): Lulu Guinness Frame lips clutch autumn/winter 2015/16; the brand’s designer
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56 | FEATURES
into a role that allowed her to work from home. ‘As well as to make a million, which is what you said in those days. Now’s it’s a billion,’ she laughs, exuding an energy and warmth that’s infectious. Her coup was to anticipate a trend before it began. Her briefcase was the frst of its kind – a bag for businesswomen that was functional but beautiful. ‘I used the most expensive leather. It had sections for umbrellas and keys. The lining was red or purple suede,’ Guinness recalls. The bag turned out to be ‘the biggest fashion statement anyone had ever made!’
This brainwave led to a grant from the British Fashion Council. Guinness vividly remembers her frst London Fashion Week show in 1991. ‘I was eight months pregnant and Anya Hindmarch walked over to welcome me.’ Guinness is known for her sense of mischief and weaves myriad design references (Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dalí are ongoing infuences) from many artistic disciplines, including illustration, architecture and furniture design, into her collections.
This year, Lulu Guinness celebrated a landmark 25 years in British fashion. It’s an achievement in an industry where
young designers often struggle to survive. It’s an even bigger achievement when you discover that her eponymous luxury line started as nothing more than a spark of an idea and the ambition to ‘do something diferent and make a million.’
It was the end of the 1980s, when big shoulder pads ruled, women were fnally forcing open the door into the boardroom and Melanie Grifth in Working Girl was to become a role model for a generation of women. Lulu Guinness’s ‘something diferent’ was a briefcase for that very woman. ‘It was an idea, not a brand,’ explains the petite, scarlet-lipped designer (she is wearing Mac’s Ruby Woo lipstick, of course). ‘No one was designing work accessories for women. The Filofax was the equivalent of a mobile and computer all rolled into one. I was obsessed with my Filofax and the briefcase was an extension of that idea.’
Guinness was also newly married and was looking for a way to move from flm editing
Above (from lef): Lulu Guinness’s 1989 briefcase design was groundbreaking; the brand’s designs are frequently colourful
SHOP | 57
‘I am a designer with an opinion, not someone who does trends,’ she emphasises. ‘I will never put a fringe on a bag, just because it’s in fashion.’ The DNA of the brand refects the designer’s personality – she is sophisticated, witty and efortlessly feminine. ‘Quality is also important to me,’ she continues. ‘I use luxury leathers and fnishes. I want people to think my bag cost £600, when it actually cost £300. When you buy one of my bags you’re buying the leather, the workmanship – and not an advertising campaign for 27 stores globally.’
That said, Guinness’s bags do sell worldwide, particularly in Asia and Italy, as well as the UK. The company’s global turnover is now a healthy £10 million. Guinness established her business in the basement of the house she still lives and designs in. ‘In the beginning I did it all, flled out forms, boxed up product,’ she recalls. The designer got her big break when London’s Victoria and Albert Museum featured one of her rose basket designs on the posters for its 50 Years of Fashion exhibition. ‘My rose basket was
Above (from top): Perspex Lips clutches; Tape Face Grace pouch; A Litle Lipstick Never Hurts clutch, all autumn/winter 2015/16
58 | F E AT U R E S
Above: the rose basket bag that featured on the poster for the Victoria and Albert Museum’s 50 Years of Fashion exhibition
SHOP | 59
the size of buildings. It was a game changer because it caught the public’s imagination,’ says Guinness. Within weeks ‘there were chaufeur-driven Rolls-Royces queuing outside my house. Models and celebrities, like Jerry Hall, came to west London to fnd me.’
Fast-forward 25 years and the celebrity faces may have changed but the design ideology hasn’t. Kate Moss, Alexa Chung, Paloma Faith and Helena Bonham Carter are all fans of Guinness’ clutches (particularly those Lips designs). The designer married into a name that resonated in class-conscious 1980s Britain: did it open any doors? ‘When I frst started out I used “Lulu” as the logo,’ the designer reveals. ‘In interviews I asked them to take Guinness of. I wanted to know if I could design, in my own right.’ Clearly, she can. Guinness is now a proud member of the British fashion establishment. ‘There’s a sensitivity and a vulnerability to British designers; now that our commercial side is catching up with our creative side, no one can touch us.’
Guinness’s autumn/winter 2015/16 collection brims with British wit and energy. ‘A little lipstick never hurts’ is embossed across a
black sequined clutch while faces, in diferent variations, have been an inspiration for several seasons. ‘The “tape” face really interests me,’ says Guinness. ‘They were inspired by the work of Donald Drawbertson, the creative director of Bobbi Brown.’
How, after all these years, does she remain so relevant? ‘It’s about being observant; I’m fascinated by sociological trends. You also need a lot of resilience and touch of madness. On a bad day I think, “What am I doing? I’m too old for this” and on a good day, “Oh my god, there are 40 people working in an ofce because I have ideas in my head.” I feel so privileged.’ luluguinness.com
Above (clockwise from top lef): Lulu Guinness autumn/winter 2015/16; the Lips clutch is a favourite of actress Helena Bonham Carter; lipstick keyring from the current collection
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While the wheels of the fashion industry
continue to turn, dropping relentless trends,
another set of smaller, more intricate cogs
has been put in motion in the luxury sector.
London designers are collaborating with
specialised craftsmen and utilising artisanal
techniques to create designs that speak of
authenticity, integrity and the prowess of the
handmade. The efects are highly sophisticated
rather than craftsy, and visible in a whole
variety of mediums from delicate hand-sewn
lace to storytelling patchwork to hand-tufted
tulle, fock and devoré velvets. The fascination
is giving the autumn/winter 2015/16 collections
a deeply tactile, cultured aesthetic.
For Christopher Kane, one of London’s
leading image and tastemakers, inspiration
was sparked during a life-drawing class he
had arranged for his team in his east London
studio. ‘These beautiful drawings just came
about and I decided to collage the silhouettes
in lace so you might see a hand or a body part –
everyone embracing and touching, or about to,’
explains Kane, who worked with highly skilled
technicians in a lace atelier in Switzerland to
London’s most exciting designers are adopting artisanal techniques, to stunning efect. Harriet Quick profles the labels seeking out the handmade, the authentic and the crafted
HANDS
SHOP | 63
achieve the efects he was seeking. Avant-garde musician and style pin-up FKA Twigs was one of the frst to sport one of the sensual designs, causing a stir at the Met Gala and a furry of pre-orders.
Intricate handwork also proved compelling for Christopher Bailey at Burberry who dubbed his collection Patchwork, Pattern and Prints and appealed to our current love of 1970s style. Each individual piece boasted a variety of techniques, from appliqué and topstitching to Indian mirror embroidery, hand-blocked prints and crochet trims. The subtle juxtaposition of surface detail, print and rich vegetable dyes proved mesmerising. While the tiered bib dresses and foral suede trench coats had their roots in 70s hippy communes, the vision for 2015 signalled a taste for artisan-led luxury
and, perhaps, a fnal goodbye to shiny, logo-laden luxe.
The groundswell of interest in the decorative crafts seems to suit the British mentality. After all, this is the birthplace of William Morris, the pioneer of the Arts and Crafts Movement in late Victorian England. Morris was known for his unwavering belief in the superiority of craftsmanship over industrial, machine-made products. The William Morris Gallery demonstrates this dedication.
Alexander McQueen is a long-time
Belief in the superiority of craftsmanship over industrial products is a longstanding British trait
Above (from lef): Christopher Kane; the designer’s autumn/winter 2015/16 collection at London Fashion Week
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roses. Leather and tulle was worked into
intricate intarsias to create cage-like corsets,
while lace was distressed to create ravishing
evening gowns. Nature is never ‘perfect’
and this was Burton’s paean to the beauty of
imperfection.
Exploration of the happy accidents of
handiwork is also central to designer Michael
van der Ham’s style. The designer has made
supporter of Britain’s craftsmen. The brand’s
team, led by creative director Sarah Burton,
tracks down and collaborates with all manner
of specialists from feather embroiderers to
saddlery experts, bronze casters and even
the specialists responsible for creating the
hair plumage for the Queen’s Horse Guards.
For the brand’s latest collection, Burton
created extraordinary 3D fower efects from
hand-tufted and sculpted tulle for elaborate
evening dresses that were partly inspired by
photographer David Sims’s images of decaying
Above (clockwise from top lef): Burberry crafsmanship; Michael van der Ham artisanal fashion; Alexander McQueen, both autumn/winter 2015/16
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bricolage or patchwork his motif since his
MA graduation year at Central Saint Martins
art school in 2009. ‘I like so many diferent
fabrics and embroideries that I want to include
everything,’ he says of a process that sees him
pinning and playing with the colours and
textures of luscious artisanal fabrics to create
his artistic dresses. The designer has started
a demi-couture service at his Hackney studio.
Actress Helena Bonham Carter was one of the
frst to swing by for a ftting.
Erdem is another brand known for
combining the raw and the refned. Designer
Erdem Moralioğlu staged his autumn/winter
2015/16 show in a series of atmospheric
1960s-styled room sets flled with characterful
objects. Models walked through the rooms
like characters in a play, wearing a series of
bodice-topped party dresses created from a
clever mix of rich jacquard fabrics with frayed
edges. There is a charming aristocratic yet
make-do-and-mend storytelling about these
designs that speaks of pragmatism as well as
passion. Interior decorative crafts also proved
compelling for the team at Mulberry, who
looked to Georgian stucco, stonemasonry and
tile patterns as a visual source for a tactile, rich
collection that includes tweed coats with relief
efects that resemble stucco and silk jacquard
skater skirts.
It’s always good to have a location in mind
for the unveiling of any new collection. We
think Kane’s Lover’s Lace would look a picture
against the sarcophagi in the Victoria and
Albert Museum, while Burberry’s patchwork
splendours would be ideal for touring the
newly reopened Sir John Soane’s Museum – a
treasure trove of antiquities and decorative arts.
Culturally rich fashion delivers many rewards
christopherkane.com,
burberry.com,
alexandermcqueen.com,
michaelvanderham.com,
erdem.com, mulberry.com
Above: atmospheric 1960s-era room set from Erdem’s autumn/winter 2015/16 show
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globalblue.com
TABLE TALKLondon’s seafood restaurants hold their own among the best in the world. Isabella Redmond Styles picks out some top eateries where fsh is the dish of the day
London is not lacking in world-class seafood restaurants and many are among the city’s longest-established and most revered gastronomic establishments. The city is home to Billingsgate Market, the UK’s largest inland fsh market, which covers 13 acres and sells an average of 25,000 tonnes of fsh each year, so the city’s top restaurants can easily source fantastic fsh. Environmentally conscious diners will be glad to know that most make a point of serving fsh that is responsibly caught from sustainable sources.
Traditionally, great quality seafood was the preserve of London’s most exclusive restaurants. However, in recent years, new eateries have found creative and appealing ways to make seafood accessible to all, whether you prefer to enjoy a dozen oysters and lobster thermidor in a restaurant frequented by flm stars or simply fancy a casual but delicious fsh supper. Even the most discerning diners are guaranteed to fall for London’s seafood restaurants hook, line and sinker.
68 | E X PE R I E NCE
SHOP | 69
C R A B T AV E R N
Crab Tavern, launched last summer in the revamped Broadgate Circle, celebrates one particular crustacean, as its name suggests. The menu is a New York-inspired mix of hero crab dishes such as soft-shell crab burger and crab Caesar sub, along other favourites like steak and chips, oyster po’boy and an adventurous shrimp mac ‘n’ cheese toastie. Signature crab-themed house specials include king crab and bonito mash and the West Coast Bucket Boil – a hearty combination of crab claws, mussels, lobster, ratte potatoes, merguez sausage and sweetcorn. Crab Tavern,Unit 7, Broadgate Circle,London EC2M 2QS, +44 (0)20 7096 2044, crabtavern.co.uk
70 | E X PE R I E NCE
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R E X & M A R I A N O
A relatively recent addition to London’s seafood scene, Rex & Mariano is a popular seafood grill and oyster bar with a Sicilian favour. The Soho eaterie is a partnership between well-known London fshmonger Rex Goldsmith and Mariano Li Vigni, an Italian with expert knowledge of Sicilian seafood. The restaurant sources its excellent seafood directly
J S H E E K E Y
Located in Covent Garden, close to many of the West End’s famous theatres, J Sheekey is a longstanding and very glamorous stalwart of London’s restaurant scene. The restaurant is named after Josef Sheekey, a seafood stallholder who opened an oyster bar in 1896 at the same location the restaurant still occupies. J Sheekey is loved by actors and audiences alike for its carefully sourced seafood, from dressed crab to potted shrimps and, of course, the famous fsh pie. Every dish shows of the fantastic quality of the ingredients. For a more informal meal, head to the J Sheekey Oyster Bar next door to the main restaurant; while the menu here is shorter, it includes delights such as tempura oysters with a wasabi dressing.
from the UK and Sicily and the aim is to make seafood more accessible and allow diners to enjoy the delights of the Sicilian coast in central London. Highlights include fritto misto with old bay seasoning, lemon and aioli, as well as whole dover sole and sea bass tartare served with basil and lemon. Rex & Mariano, 2 St Anne’s Court, London W1F 0AZ, +44 (0)20 7437 0566,rexandmariano.com
J Sheekey, 28-32 St Martin’s Court,London WC2N 4AL, +44 (0)20 7240 2565, j-sheekey.co.uk
globalblue.com
The world’s fnest hotels boast desirable locations, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas. SHOP shares its pick of some of the best
STAY IN STYLE
72 | E X PE R I E NCE
16-metre indoor swimming pool. The hotel restaurant, Le Gabriel, is a highlight, while the lush inner courtyard is an added bonus. Apartments are available for longer stays; services include daily housekeeping, private chefs and in-room spa treatments.La Réserve Paris,42 avenue Gabriel, 75008 Paris,+33 (0)1 5836 6060,lareserve-paris.com
LA RÉSERVE PARIS
Despite being within walking distance of the Champs-Élysées, La Réserve is a surprisingly peaceful place to stay. A Haussmann-style urban mansion, the hotel boasts spacious rooms, marble freplaces and rich fabrics throughout while amenities include a library, smoking lounge and – unusually for Paris – a
E X PE R I E NCE | 73
décor has been carefully considered, with a colour palette and material selection intended to create a feeling of quiet luxury and refnement. Don’t miss La Sinfonia, the hotel’s restaurant, which is exclusive to guests and home to a lounge bar that is the perfect place to enjoy an evening aperitivo.TownHouse Galleria, Via Silvio Pellico 8, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3659 4690, townhousehotels.com
TOWNHOUSE GALLERIA
Milan’s TownHouse Galleria hotel occupies one of the city’s most sought-after locations, within the historic Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Its 27 modern guestrooms and suites each strike the perfect balance between hi-tech amenities and home comforts. The rooms’
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globalblue.com
ROSA GRAND
Set in the heart of Milan’s historic centre, the Rosa Grand hotel exudes Italian elegance throughout each of its 330 rooms. There are three room types available; all refect the inherent sense of style which Milan is known for, without sacrifcing comfort, and ofer impressive views across Piazza Fontana to the Duomo. Be sure to dine at one of the hotel’s three restaurants, all operated in partnership with Eataly. Choose between Roses, Sfzio and the Grand Lounge and bar – all combine the highest-quality produce with Italian culinary traditions.Rosa Grand, Piazza Fontana 3, 20122 Milan,+39 02 88311, starhotels.com
THE MARK
The luxurious interior of the Mark hotel in Prague refects its former incarnation as a baroque palace; expect rich textures, fne furnishings and specially commissioned works of art throughout. All the city’s main attractions are within walking distance of the hotel and each of its rooms ofers a private balcony with panoramic views. Choose from
two restaurants, each serving a menu of modern Bohemian cuisine, enjoy an aperitif at the Two Steps Bar with its vaulted neo-baroque ceilings, or check into the wellness centre for a massage. The grand deluxe rooms with kitchenette are ideal for those looking for a home away from home. The Mark, Hybernská 12, 110 00 Prague, +420 226 226111,themark.cz
PH
OT
O: J
AK
UB
DV
OR
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Polo Ralph Lauren • Jack Victor • Paul & Shark • Bruno Saint Hilaire • Remy • Tommy Hilfger
Tallia Orange • Michael Kors • Brooks Brothers • Lacoste • Samuelsohn • Robert Graham
True Religion • John Laing • Cole Haan • Brioni • Eton of Sweden • Lucky Brand
90 Brompton Road, SW3 1ER, London
(in Knightsbridge, opposite Harrods)
Visit rochesterclothing.com • Call 0800 44 22 77
76 | GUIDE
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A GLIMPSE OF LONDON
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to London with
a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from one of the city’s most iconic
fashion stores to the interiors boutique to know about. For further helpful hints
and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/london.
Above: the London Eye rises above an autumn view of the city
GUIDE
PH
OT
O: K
IRS
TY
AN
DR
EW
S
THE ULTIMATE LUXURY SHOPPING EXPERIENCE
Discover the fnest luxury shopping experience with more than 130 boutiques
of the world’s leading fashion and lifestyle brands, plus instant tax refunds
on your shopping.
ANYA HINDMARCH · BELSTAFF · CH CAROLINA HERRERA · MISSONI
MARC BY MARC JACOBS · MULBERRY · RUPERT SANDERSON · SANDRO
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO · STELLA MCCARTNEY · TAG HEUER AND MANY MORE.
BICESTER VILLAGE IS ONE OF THE COLLECTION OF VILLAGES IN EUROPE AND CHINA
© Bicester Village 2015 08/15 1935
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LAS ROZAS VILLAGE MADRID CHINA SUZHOU VILLAGE SUZHOU SHANGHAI VILLAGE, SHANGHAI
(OPENING SPRING 2016)
# B I C E ST E RV I L L AG E
78 | GUIDE
Place Of Interest Train Station
BROM
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RO
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DN
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ST
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QU
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WA
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CROM WELL RD
EAR
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KIN
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MARYLEBONE RD
W. C
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KENSINGTON HIGH S
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RD
KENSINGTON RD
WA
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PONT ST.
RoundPond
The LongWater
The Serpentine
PRA
ED ST.
MARBLE ARCH
EDGWARE ROAD
EDGWARE ROAD
MARYLEBONEBAKER
STREET
LANCASTER GATE
QUEENSWAY
BAYSWATER
ROYAL OAK
WARWICK AVENUE
NOTTING HILL GATE
HIGH STREETKENSINGTON
PADDINGTON
PADDINGTON
KNIGHTSBRIDGE
SLOANE SQUARE
SOUTHKENSINGTON
GLOUCESTERROAD
EARLSCOURT
VICTORIA & ALBERT
MUSEUM
ROYAL ALBERT
HALL
KENSINGTON PALACE
NATURAL HISTORY
MUSEUM
SERPENTINE GALLERY
London Underground Station
page
88
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89
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CENTRAL LONDON
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PICCAD
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TH
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KIN
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WA
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JERMYN ST.
LAMBETH ROAD
AL
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BA
NK
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COVENTGARDEN
LEICESTER SQUARE
PICCADILLY CIRCUS
OXFORD CIRCUS
TOTTENHAMCOURT ROAD
HOLBORN
CHANCERYLANE
BONDSTREET
GOODGE STREET
GREEN PARK
EMBANKMENT
TEMPLE
LAMBETH NORTH
HYDE PARKCORNER
VICTORIA
ST. JAMES PARK
PIMLICO
WESTMINSTER
WATERLOO
CHARINGCROSS
BUCKINGHAM
PALACE
APSLEY HOUSE
WESTMINSTER
ABBEY
BIG BEN
TATE GALLERY
LONDON EYE
NATIONAL
THEATRE
BRITISH
MUSEUM
ST. JAMES PARK
page
80
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81
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87
globalblue.com
80 | GUIDE
Mount Street, Davies Street & Bruton Street
South Molton Street,
Davies Street & Brook Street
Hotel
GROSVENOR HILL
BOURDON STREET
MOUNT ROW
BRUTON STREET
DA
VIE
S S
TR
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Berkeley Square
CA
RL
OS
PL
AC
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MOUNT STREET
HO
LLAN
D &
HO
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BR
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KE
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●
MA
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MILLE
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● C
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● G
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● M
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● C
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● P
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OF S
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ST
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● ROLAND MOURET
ScoÉ’s● JENNY PACKHAM
NIC
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WO
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●
● VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
● JESSICA MCCORMACK
SOLANGE● AZAGURY-PARTRIDGE
RO
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AN
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●
WILLIA
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● A
ND
SO
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TIM
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EV
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ES
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tel
Mo
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Deli
BROOKS MEWS
AVERY
RO
W
SO
UTH
MO
LTON
STREET
BROOK STREET
DA
VIE
S S
TR
EE
T
GROSVENOR STREET
NE
W B
ON
D S
TR
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OXFORD STREET
BOND STREET
BROWNS ●WHISTLES ●
PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND ●BUTLER & WILSON ●
ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ●CLAUDIE PIERLOT ●
DUNE ●
VERTICE UOMO ●LUMAS GALLERY ●
JONES ●MONICA VINADER ●
AFTERSHOCK ●
POSTE ●COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ●
MODA IN PELLE ●AUBADE ●
SANDRO ●FREY WILLE ●ANNOUSHKA ●SPENCER
● HART
● DUNHILL
● O
MEGA
● V
ILAGALLO
● A
UTHOR
● B
ROWNS FOCUS
● C
LAUDIE P
IERLOT
● G
IAN M
ARCO LORENZI
● N
AILS IN
C
● A
RTICA
● L
USH
● P
INKO
● G
ÉRARD DAREL
● H
OBBS
● N
W 3
● S
PACE NK
● R
EISS
● C
ATIMIN
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● M
ASCARO
● T
ED BAKER
● T
HE KOOPLES
● O
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● Y
ELLOW K
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● K
AREN MIL
LEN
● S
LOWEAR
● M
AJE
● S
ASOON
● P
ETIT B
ATEAU
● R
UCO LINE
● K
URT GEIG
ER
TARTINE E
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● C
HOCOLAT
CK●
JEWELLERY
LINKS O
F
● LONDON
VERA WANGAT BROWNS ●
BOSIDENG ●
Claridge’s
ACCESSORIZE ● ● PINKO
● ROBERT CLERGERIE
● S
ON
IA R
YK
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● P
OM
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LA
TO
Selfridges
Th
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um
on
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VANLELES DIAMONDS
VanLeles Diamonds, owned by West African designer Vania Leles, has opened a fagship atelier in Mayfair. The fne jewellery boutique is open by appointment only and jewellery lovers can expect showstopping pieces that combine femininity, natural beauty and rare gemstones, made by expert craftsmen in London, Florence and Paris. Visit the London store to browse the range or commission a very special bespoke design. VanLeles Diamonds, 174 New Bond Street, London W1S 4RG, +44 (0)20 7409 1081, vanleles.com; by appointment only
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Department Store
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IN SELFRIDGES:
TIFFANY & CO P.45
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GU I DE | 81
New Bond Street
TENTERDEN STREET TENTERDEN STREET
GROSVENOR HILL
BOURDON STREET
DO
VE
R S
T.
CLIFFORD STREET
BROOK STREET HANOVER STREET
BURLINGTON GARDENS
BRUTON ST
C
ON
DU
IT S
TREET
SA
VIL
E R
OW
DA
VIE
S S
TR
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DA
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S S
TR
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BROOKS MEWS
GROSVENOR STREET
MADDOX ST.
NE
W B
ON
D S
TR
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T
NE
W B
ON
D S
TR
EE
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NE
W B
ON
D S
TR
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Berkeley Square
SO
UT
H M
OL
TO
N S
TR
EE
T
OXFORD STREET OXFORD STREET
HERMÈS ●
LORO PIANA ●
CHANEL ●
CHRISTIAN DIOR ●
CHURCH’S LADIES ●
BOUCHERON ●
ASPREY ●
BURBERRY ●
BULGARI ●
PIAGET ●
MARCUS ●
HARRY WINSTON ●
MOUSSAIEFF ●
VANLELES DIAMONDS ●
CHANEL ●
CHAUMET ●
CARTIER ●
BOODLES ●
MIKIMOTO ●
DAVID MORRIS ●
● WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND
● PATEK PHILLIPE
● DE GRISOGONO
● ADLER
● CHOPARD
● MOIRA
● BREGUET
● VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
● GRAFF
● RALPH LAUREN
● BURBERRY
● LOUIS VUITTON
● NEXT
● BYFORD
● BATEEL
● LEONIDAS
● WATCHES OF BOND ST
● BASLER
● SARAH PACINI
● OROGOLD
● DOLCE & GABANNA
● EMPORIO ARMANI
● MULBERRY
● WEMPE
● COACH
● SMYTHSON
● ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
● DELVAUX
● HUBLOT
● ANNE FONTAINE
● LONGCHAMP
● JIMMY CHOO
● LUCIE CAMPBELL
● RUSSELL & BROMLEY
● DSQUARED2
ZARA ●
TM LEWIN ●
HOUSE OF LABELS ●
PRONOVIAS ●
VICTORINOX ●
BOUDI ●
LORIBLU ●
MEPHISTO ●
BONHAMS ●
RM WILLIAMS ●
HOUSE OF LABLES ●
MARITHE FRANCOIS GIRBAUD ●
RUSSELL & BROMLEY ●
VICTORIA’S SECRET ●
ANYA HINDMARCH ●
MONT BLANC ●
FOLLI FOLLIE ●
HUGO BOSS ●
CAR SHOE WAREHOUSE ●
PAL ZILERI ●
CANALI ●
BREITLING ●
CORNELIANI ●
CHURCH’S ●
IWC ●
BELSTAFF ●
MISSONI ●
SJ PHILIPS ●
ZILLI ●
FENDI ●
POLO RALPH LAUREN
(CHILDRENS) ●
TORY BURCH ●
MIU MIU ●
OPERA GALLERY
● PIN
ET
● R
OHMIR
● CHARLOTTE O
LYMPIA
● E M
ARINELLA
● A
SAUVAGE
● N
ATASHA ZINKO
● THE BOX BOUTIQUE
TEMPERLEY ●
WILLIA
M
● &
SO
N
● LUDW
IG REIT
ER
● 77 DIAMONDS
WOLF & BADGER ●
GENTLEMEN’S TONIC ●
● BALLY
● IS
SEY MIY
AKE
JIMMY CHOO ●
CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ●
VICTORIA BECKHAM ●
BRUNELLO
● CUCINELLI
Fenwick
Featured In This IssueLondon Underground StationPlace Of InterestRestaurant
P.22
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P.39
82 | GUIDE
AL
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RM
AR
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ST
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S
TAFFORD STREET
OL
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LIN
GT
ON
ST
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CO
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ST
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DO
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TR
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JERMYN STREET
CLIFFORD STREET
BURLINGTON GARDENS
CO
ND
UIT
STR
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SA
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E R
OW
MADDOX STREET
OL
D B
ON
D S
TR
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OL
D B
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D S
TR
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PICCADILLY
AR
LIN
GT
ON
ST
R.
GUCCI ●
VACHERON
CONSTANTIN ●
VERTU ●
VALENTINO ●
CARTIER ●
ETRO ●
DE BEERS ●
ALEXANDER
WANG ●
CHANEL ●
DKNY ●
CAMPER ●
CARTUJANO ●
ROLEX ●
AKRIS ●
LEVIEV ●
SAINT LAURENT ●
● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
● JOSEPH
● CHATILA
● MAX MARA
● PRADA
BOTTEGA
● VENETA
● DANIEL KATZ
● JAEGER LECOULTRE
● OMEGA
● DAMIANI
● DAKS
● LA PERLA
● DOLCE & GABBANA
● ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
● TOD’S
● JAEGER-LECOULTRE
● MAPPIN & WEBB
GIANMARIA
BUCCELLATI ●
THE ROYAL
ACADEMY
The Wolseley
Le Caprice
Burlington Arcade
TIFFANY & CO ●
PAUL SMITH ●
Dover
Street
Market
GIE
VE
S &
HA
WK
ES
●
OL
IVE
R
SW
EE
NE
Y ●
GO
AT
●
Cecconi’s
● PAUL SMITH
NORTON & SONS ●
GEORG
● JENSON
● C
HU
RC
H’S
● F
OU
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● Y
-3 A
DID
AS
● IS
SE
Y M
IYA
KE
● C
RO
MB
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● L
AL
IQU
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AV
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ND
● D
ON
NA
KA
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● D
AN
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HE
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SO
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● V
IVIE
NN
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TW
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● F
AB
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A F
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● W
AR
DR
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● P
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● B
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SK
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●
YO
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AM
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JOH
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VA
RV
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●
VIV
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NE
WE
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WO
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MA
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ET
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NO
●
HO
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RIG
BY
& P
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LE
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NIC
OL
E F
AR
HI ●
SO
TH
EB
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●
PE
TE
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DW
AR
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●
TA
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OS
SIA
N ●
MO
SC
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● K
ITO
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CLARKS ●
BR
UN
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LO
CU
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LI ●
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
Conduit Street &Old Bond Street
Shopping Centre/Mall Department Store
BREMONT
Bremont and Jaguar have launched two
new watch collaborations to cement
their longstanding afliation. The
watchmaker has produced six timepieces
to complement six of Jaguar’s lightweight
E-Type sports cars. Both the MKI and
MKII are a celebration of the iconic
Jaguar E-Type sports car which launched
in 1961, and the watch faces are inspired
by the car’s speedometer and tachometer.
The MK1 is slick and lightweight with
a polished stainless steel case and the
design of the rotor is a tribute to the
E-Type’s steering wheel. The MKII also
celebrates Jaguar’s heritage, bearing its
heritage logo and also hour markings that
refect the style of the numerals found on
E-Type instruments. Both watches come
with a 1960s-style racing strap in addition
to a leather spare.
Bremont, 29 South Audley Street,
London W1K 2PE, +44 (0)20 7493 5150,
bremont.com * for map go to page 80
P.45
SHOP | 83
Featured In This Issue
Regent Street
London Underground Station
● TEZENIS
CA
RN
AB
Y S
TR
EE
T
FOUBERT 'S PLACE
GREAT CASTLE STREET
GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET
OXFORD STREETR
EG
EN
T S
TR
EE
T
R
EG
EN
T S
TR
EE
T
OXFORD CIRCUS
BENETTON ●
● NIKETOWN
● TOPSHOP/TOPMANH&M ●
LEVI’S ●
FRENCH CONNECTION ●
KAREN MILLEN ●
TED BAKER ●
APPLE STORE ●
LACOSTE ●
LONGCHAMP ●
MOLTON BROWN ●7 FOR ALL
MANKIND ●MICHAEL KORS ●
FURLA ●HOBBS ●
BARKER ● TUMI ●
CAMPER ●KIPLING ●CLARKS ●
CHURCH’S ●
THE PEN SHOP ●
GANT ●
● H
OU
SE
OF
HA
NO
VE
R
● BANANA REPUBLIC
● OMEGA
● & OTHER STORIES
● ACCESSORIZE
● ARMANI EXCHANGE
● ALL SAINTS
● H&M
● COS
● DESIGUAL
● GAP
● JAEGER
● KURT GEIGER
● HAMLEYS
● JUICY COUTURE
Liber t y
● AQUASCUTUM
Place Of InterestRestaurant
TIMOTHY EVEREST
Timothy Everest’s autumn/winter
2015/16 collection contains all the
essentials for the modern man’s wardrobe.
The 25-piece collection celebrates 25
years of the brand and highlights include
classic parkas reworked in woodland
camoufage British Millerain fabric, in
addition to wardrobe staples such as
lightweight, stylish travel macs, tapered
selvedge jeans and Oxford shirts available
in super-soft Japanese chambray.
Timothy Everest, 35 Bruton Place,
London W1J 6NS, +44 (0)20 7629 6236,
timothyeverest.co.uk
* for map go to page 80
84 | GUIDE
Regent Street, Piccadilly & Jermyn Street
Café Featured In This Issue
SA
CK
VIL
LE
ST
RE
ET
GLASSHOUSE STREET
CHARLES II STREET
LO
WE
R J
OH
N S
TR
EE
T
BEAK ST.
LO
WE
R J
AM
ES
ST
RE
ET
SA
VIL
E R
OW
SA
VIL
E R
OW
VIGO STREET
B
REWER STREET
BU
RY
ST
RE
ET
DU
KE
ST
RE
ET
ST
JA
ME
S’S
K
ING STREET
DU
KE
OF
YO
RK
ST
RE
ET
HAM YARD
ST
JA
ME
S’S
ST
RE
ET
JERMYN STREET
JERMYN STREET
LO
WE
R R
EG
EN
T S
TR
EE
T
REGENT STREET
PICCADILLY
RE
GE
NT
ST
RE
ET
PICCADILLYCIRCUS
PiccadillyCircus
St James’sSquare
WA
TE
RS
TO
NE
S ●
HA
WE
S &
CU
RT
IS ●
● L
LA
DR
O
HIL
DIT
CH
& K
EY
●
BA
RK
EN
●
CZ
EC
H A
ND
SP
EA
KE
●
AL
FR
ED
DU
NH
ILL
●
BO
GG
I ●
NE
W &
LIN
GW
OO
D ●
FA
VO
UR
BR
OO
K ●
WILT
ON
S ●
SL
AD
MO
RE
●
JM W
ES
TO
N ●
FR
AN
CO
’S ●
BE
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MOLESKINE ●
CRABTREE &EVELYN ●
L’OCCITANE ●
WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND ●
OXFORDS ●
GODIVA ●
SWAROVSKI ●
ZARA HOME ●
PENHALIGON’S ●
TOYWATCH ●
BURBERRY ●
REISS ●
SUPERDRY ●
CLARKS ●LONDON TEXTILE CO ●
● HUGO BOSS
● ESPRIT
● LEVI’S
● REISS
● WOLFORD
● CALVIN KLEIN JEANS
● GUESS
● ANTHROPOLOGIE
● MASSIMO DUTTI
● PIQUADRO
● BROOKS BROTHERS
● TIMBERLAND
● TOMMY HILFIGER
● MAPPIN & WEBB
RUSSELL &● BROMLEY
● TM LEWIN
● FOLLI FOLLIE
● THE BODY SHOP
● ZARA
● MANGO
● LILLYWHITES
● JAMES LOCK & CO
● AUSTIN REED● WOLFORD
● VIYELLA● CHARLES TYRWHITT
● MOSS● UNIQLO
● COACH
HOLLISTER ●
HUNTER ●● NESPRESSO
● LOTUS
Cinnamon Soho
● LUSH
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CaféRoyal
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FRESCOBAL CARIOCA ●
DINOSAUR DESIGN ●
BRUMMELS OF LONDON ●ONCE ● MILANO
EYEWEAR ● CONCIERGE
Jinjuu
ORLEBAR BROWN ●
L’Atelier deJoël Robuchon
SELECTED STORES IN
PRINCESS ARCADE:
THE LEFT SHOE
COMPANY
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Shopping Centre/Mall Department Store
P.88
P.4
4
P.40
GUIDE | 85
Brompton Road
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Bulgari Hotel
● JOSEPH
Harrods
SELECTED STORES IN
HARRODS:
LLADRO
VERTU
ATELIER DES ORS
London Underground StationPlace Of Interest Restaurant Hotel
P.86
P.38
86 | GUIDE
Sloane Street South Sloane Street North
Non-Global Blue RetailerGlobal Blue Retailer Place Of InterestDepartment Store
Featured In This Issue
BA
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CADOGAN PL ACE
LO
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LowndesSquare
SL
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● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
● SERGIO ROSSI
● ALBERTA FERRETTI
● TOM FORD
● ERMANNO SCERVINO
● MONCLER
● FRATELLI ROSSETTI
● ESCADA
● MISSONI
● LOUIS VUITTON
KNIGHTSBRIDGE
BOODLES ●KID SPACE ●
MCM ●H&M ●
TOD’S ●
GIORGIO ARMANI ●
PRADA ●
LORO PIANA ●GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI
DESIGN ●
SHANGHAI TANG ●OMEGA ●
DOLCE & GABANA ●JITROIS ●
CESARE PACIOTTI ●MICHAEL KORS ●
BILLIONAIRE ●HOGAN ●GRAFF ●
ANNE FONTAINE ●
BONPOINT ●
JOSEPH ●
GUCCI ●
ROBERTO CAVALLI ●
MARNI ●GIANFRANCO FERRÉ ●
MICHAEL KORS ●
DIOR ●
JIMMY CHOO ●
BOTTEGA VENETA ●
● BERLUTI● GINA
● ROGER VIVIER
● MIU MIU
● VERSACE
● FENDI
● HERMÈS
● BULGARI
● DOLCE & GABBANA
● VALENTINO
● SAINT LAURENT
● EMILIO PUCCI
● CHANEL
● DRJIE
● LA PERLA
● COUTTS & CO BANK
AM
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GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI ●
Har vey Nichols
ELLIS STREET
CADOGAN PLACE CADOGAN GATE
CADOGAN GARDENS
WILBR AHAM PL .
SLOANE TERR ACE
SL
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MARIE CHANTAL ●
PAUL & JOE ●
FRANK SMYTHSON ●
HACKETT ●
ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ●
CARTIER ●
TIFFANY & CO ●
PETERJONES ●
LINKS OF LONDON ●
● PINK
● PAULE KA● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI● ANYA HINDMARCH● BROWNS
● CHLOÉ● MONTBLANC● JO MALONE
● H
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Joseph, 77 Fulham Road, London SW3 6RE, +44 (0)20 7823 9500, joseph-fashion.com
* for map go to page 85
JOSEPH
Joseph is one of London’s best-known fashion names. Joseph Ettedgui sourced international womenswear labels that were hard to fnd when he launched his eponymous boutique in Chelsea towards the end of the 1960s. He championed then up-and-coming designers such as Azzedine Alaïa and Yohji Yamamoto, and his boutique was the frst store in London to sell Prada. His own label also met with great success. Now under the creative direction of Louise Trotter, the range ofers luxury essentials with a strong contemporary spin. This season’s collection combines textured, untreated fabrics with luxe materials such as ultra-fne cashmere and georgette silk.
GU I DE | 87
Redchurch Street
BarRestaurantLondon Underground Station
ELISKÁ
Interior designer Eliská Sapera is known for her ability to mix contemporary style with antique fnds and, at her Eliská boutique, the rest of us can learn how to do this too. The elegant Mayfair boutique ofers bespoke pieces alongside the Eliská range of scented candles, cosy cashmere throws and fabulous bed linen, in addition to striking pieces sourced internationally. Those looking for an interior overhaul will be pleased to learn that Sapera also ofers a complete design service. Eliská, 16A New Quebec Street, London W1H 7RU, +44 (0)20 7723 5521, eliskadesign.com
MONTCLARESTREET
LIGONIERSTREET
WHITBY ST
REET
SCLATER STREET
EBORSTREET
BETHNAL
GREEN
ROAD
CLUBROW
CLUBROW
CALVERT AVENUECALVERT AVENUE
BOUNDARYSTREET
SWANFIELDSTREET
OLD NICHOL
STREET
REDCHURCH STREET
REDCHURC
H STREE
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SHOREDITCHHIGHSTREET
SHOREDITCHHIGHSTREET
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CARHARTT ●
Owl & thePussycat
THE GALLERY ●
THOR & WHISTLE ●● URBAN INTERIOR
LA
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● START
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Shopping Centre
88 | GUIDE
Ledbury Road
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Restaurant Café
COLVILLE MEWS
NE
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VIL
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WESTBOURNE GROVE
TWENTY8TWELVE ●MATCHES ●
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG ●THE VILLAGE BICYCLE ●
CARAMEL ●LYON CHOY LONDON ●
PETIT BATEAU ●
ANYA HINDMARCH ●MR HARE ●
● PENOLOPE CHILVERS
● MATCHES
● ECONE
● I LOVE GORGEOUS
● JW BEETON
● MELISSA ODABASH
EMMA HOPE ●
MARIE-CHANTAL CHILDREN ●
IRIS ●
JOSEPH ●
MELT ●
ASHLEY STORES ●
ASSYA LONDON ●
JEEVES ●
FARA BABY ●
FARA KIDS ●
● WOLF & BADGER
● ROBIN MARTIN ANTIQUES
● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE
● REISS
● BODAS
● DAVID CLULOW
● PETIT AIMEBeach Blanket Babylon
Otolenghi
E&O
L’ATELIER DE JOËL ROBUCHON
Located in the heart of London’s theatreland, L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon ofers dramatic entertainment in its own right. The restaurant spans three foors, complete with a bar and a secluded roof-top terrace. Opt for a table at the counter which surrounds the open kitchen and watch as the chefs prepare a gourmet meal that’s guaranteed to be one to remember, using the best ingredients possible. The restaurant specialises in a contemporary take on French classics; favourites include a perfectly poached egg enveloped in rice batter and served with caviar, as well as quail stufed with foie gras and served with unbelievably smooth and creamy mashed potatoes.
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, 13-15 West Street, London WC2H 9NE, +44 (0)20 7010 8600, joelrobuchon.co.uk
* for map go to page 84
GU I DE | 89
Westbourne Grove & Denbigh Road
Place Of Interest
COLVILLE MEWS
NE
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ONSDALE ROADCO
VIL
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RO
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COLVINE TERR ACE
CHEPSTOW
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The Ledbury
TEMPERLEY LONDON
Glamorous yet bohemian with a distinctly British feel, there’s a lot to like about Temperley London. This season’s collection draws its inspiration from a variety of sources, including nomadic tribes and 1920s Paul Poiret designs. Expect a deliciously warm colour palette and layered silhouettes which lend Temperley’s signature stitchwork and bold foral prints a pleasingly efortless appeal. Accessories such as scarves and androgynous evening slippers complete this nonchalantly alluring look.Temperley London, 6-7 Colville Mews, Lonsdale Road, London W11 2DA, +44 (0)20 7229 7957, temperleylondon.com
Featured In This Issue
90 | GUIDE
MY NEIGHBOURHOOD: ROLAND MOURET
Above: Roland Mouret, Jessica McCormack and Solange Azagury-Partridge stores on Carlos Place
‘I love London, particularly Mayfair. You feel as though you are on the set of a movie, with the grandeur of the Connaught Hotel
* p.80, fancy cars, and of course my store at 8 Carlos Place * p.80 in the heart of it all.
‘I love Solange Azagury-Partridge
* p.80 and Jessica McCormack * p.80 for their impeccable taste. Their stores are near mine and it’s refreshing having neighbours with such a strong sense of identity. With the new Céline * p.80 store on Mount Street, and soon the addition of Dior and Saint Laurent, it’s a very exciting time for the area.
French born London based designer Roland Mouret is known for his ability to create beautiful, sensual garments that fit and flatter women, including the famous Galaxy and Moon dresses. His pieces have been known to sell out within hours of going on sale. His first standalone store, which opened in 2011, is located on Carlos Place in London’s exclusive Mayfair district. He shares his neighbourhood favourites with Ximena Daneri
rolandmouret.com
‘My local secrets? Mount Street Deli
* p.80 does the best takeaway in Mayfair. Mount Street Gardens is a hidden gem tucked away just behind the street itself. Also, try Robert Clergerie * p.80 on Wigmore Street for men’s shoes.
I am most likely to be found at Little
House. It is the best place for business meetings and, of course, a drink with friends. I do breakfast, lunch, tea and dinner at The Beaumont * p.80. I’m a creature of habit and I never feel bored there.
‘When friends visit, I always think a
SHOP | 91
Above (clockwise from top): the Serpentine Gallery; The Mount Street Deli; Roland Mouret store interior; Robert Clergerie boutique
visit to the Serpentine Galleries * p.78 in Hyde Park is a nice way to introduce people to the amazing city. My favourite walk in London is along the Thames on the South Bank. I go from the London Eye to Borough market. Great views can be found crossing any bridge along the Thames. Each one gives you a unique perspective of London.
‘My tips for exploring London? Don’t be frightened to cross Regent Street – there is a nice lifestyle in Soho. And always use London’s black cabs. They ofer the best cab service in the world.’
PH
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O: J
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92 | GU I DE
BICESTER VILLAGE
Located just an hour from central London, Bicester Village is surrounded by picturesque countryside and is close to the historic city of Oxford. Bicester Village plays host to more than 130 boutiques from leading luxury brands and up-and-coming labels. The architectural design refects its setting, with low-rise boutiques clustered around an open-air boulevard.
Bicester Village, 50 Pingle Drive, Bicester, Oxfordshire OX26 6WD, +44 (0)1869 366266, bicestervillage.com
Opening times
Monday-Friday: 10am-7pmSaturday: 9am-8pmSunday: 10am-7pm*
*On Sundays Burberry, Gucci, Hugo Boss and Polo Ralph Lauren open at 11.30am for browsing and at 12pm for shopping; they close at 6pm. Prada and Versace open from 12pm to 6pm for shopping.
DON’T MISS…
Shopping Day Experience
This exclusive package includes:
• Return tickets on the Shopping Express®
luxury coach service from central London to Bicester Village• A VIP Card providing additional savings in participating boutiques• Hands-free Shopping service where boutique assistants pack your purchases ready for collection later• A two-course lunch or dinner at either Villandry Grand Café or Carluccio’s• £50 Bicester Village Gift Card to spend in the boutiques of your choice
SERVICES
Balenciaga
French fashion house Balenciaga was founded by Spanish designer Cristóbal Balenciaga who opened his frst boutique in San Sebastián, Spain, in 1918, and established his Paris couture house on Avenue George V in August 1936.
Hunter
The Hunter brand, established in 1856, holds royal warrants from both the Queen and the Duke of Edinburgh. Discover the Hunter Original and Hunter Field collections in the Bicester Village boutique.
The suite of services ofered includes the award-winning Bicester Visitor Centre, valet parking, a children’s play area, personal stylists, Hands-Free Shopping, a contemplation room, a money-changing facility and instant tax refunds.
NEW OPENINGS
globalblue.com
11am
Be sure to stop at Tag
Heuer, purveyor of some of the fnest Swiss timepieces and the perfect place to pick up some new wristwear.
SHOP | 93
HOW TO GET THERE
By Train
Two trains an hour run from London Marylebone to Bicester Village station. The journey can take as little as 46 minutes. Alternatively, four train services an hour run from Marylebone to Bicester North station, where the Bicester Village shuttle bus will whisk you to your favourite boutiques.
By Shopping Express®
The Shopping Express® is the daily* coach service from central London to Bicester Village, one of the world’s premier luxury shopping destinations.*excludes 25 DecemberTicket prices:Adult return £28Child return £23 (up to 15 years of age)
By Car
The journey from London takes 60 minutes. Take the M40 motorway to exit nine. Follow the A41 for two miles towards Bicester and then follow the signs to Village Retail Park and Bicester Village Outlet Centre. The car park is free. If you are using a satellite navigation system, the postcode is OX26 6WD.
10am
Start your day at Mulberry, a quintessentially British brand with a reputation for balancing creativity and modernity with the traditions of leather craft and manufacture. Mulberry inspires and delights customers across the world.
5pm
End your day at Anya
Hindmarch. The designer’s colourful and quirky handbags have made her a hit among the fashion set.
1pm
Stop for lunch at Farmshop. This all-day dining destination from Soho House & Co has been created exclusively for Bicester Village.
3pm
A modern American luxury brand rooted in quality and craftsmanship, Coach is synonymous with the ease and sophistication of New York style.
PERFECT DAY
Global Blue’s menswear reporter Ruairidh
Pritchard describes how he would spend a perfect day at Bicester Village
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TRANSLATIONS
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Карен Мюннис рассказывает о классической модели пальто – дафлкот, которая в этом сезоне представлена в самых разных версиях, от решительного ретро до подчеркнутой актуальности
Зимний дафлкот остается такой же классикой моды, как и весенний тренч. В этом сезоне многие дизайнеры вдохновлялись прошлыми десятилетиями, чтобы включить в свои коллекции это пальто в стиле унисекс, в котором функция органично сочетается с модой. Принято считать, что оно получило свое название в честь бельгийского города Дюффеля, где раньше производилась плотная шерстяная ткань. Однако сам дизайн модели, с его знаменитым большим капюшоном и продолговатыми пуговицами, – истинно английский. В конце 19 века производством таких курток занималась компания Джона Партриджа, которая специализировалась на рабочей одежде и работала в городке Рагли в Стаффордшире. В начале 20 века такие пальто из верблюжьей шерсти использовали служащие британского военно-морского флота, спасаясь от суровых условий в море. Свободный крой и объемные капюшоны отлично подходили для того, чтобы надевать пальто поверх униформы и фуражки. Модель даже получила неформальное название Монти – в честь фельдмаршала Монтгомери, которого команда узнавала издалека по характерной верхней одежде.
Продажи излишков военной формы гражданскому населению сделали дафлкот популярным: в 1950-60-е он плотно вошел в повседневные гардеробы. Его ценителем
48: Top Coat
Одежда высшего уровня
РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОДбыл, в частности, Жан Кокто – он носил белое пальто. Продолговатые деревянные пуговицы и большие капюшоны стали появляться и в детской одежде: например, Медвежонок Паддингтон носит синий дафлкот. Эту моду не могли пропустить в музыкальной индустрии, и группа Belle and Sebastian из Глазго отлично это иллюстрирует. А на обложке сингла Oasis 1995 года Roll With It все музыканты позируют именно в таких черных пальто.
Британская компания Gloverall приобрела военную партию дафлкотов, а в 1954 году открыла собственное производство, которым продолжает заниматься по сей день. Что же обеспечивает непреходящую популярность этой модели? «Все дело в форме и функциональности. Это полупальто завоевало статус культовой британской одежды и неотъемлемой части гардероба. И это неудивительно: в любой сезон оно смотрится непринужденно стильно, а также безупречно справляется с задачей сохранять сухость и тепло, когда погода портится», – утверждает Марк Смит, директор по маркетингу и продажам.
Как и в случае с тренчем, сама модель не утрачивает привлекательности с течением времени благодаря двум качествам – удобству и способности согревать. Работая над другими предметами гардероба, дизайнеры Gloverall продолжают использовать классические элементы дафлкота. «Деревянные или костяные продолговатые пуговицы и петли из веревки или кожи узнаваемы и используются во всей нашей Classic Collection. Это пальто остается неизменным эталоном любой нашей куртки – настолько совершенна ее функциональность зимой. Поэтому, даже более тонкие модели обладают схожими техническими свойствами, поэтому способны защищать от стихии, не теряя стильного облика», – утверждает Смит. Источником вдохновения для
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Gloverall к сезону осень/зима 2015/16 стали исторические спортивные состязания. Так, компания обратилась к архивным черно-белым фотографиям Тони Брукса, гонщика британской Формулы-1 1950-х, где он позирует в классическом пальто Монти. В результате объемные шерстяные модели получили несколько более облегающие формы и отделку аппликациями на тему гонок.
Это далеко не единственный бренд, который ищет в прошлом вдохновение для новых вариаций на тему дафлкота. Британская марка Ben Sherman в коллекции осень/зима 2015/16 также занялась переосмыслением этой классической модели. «Мы изучали одежду, которая была бы связана с британской молодежной культурой, – делится Марк Уилльмс, возглавляющий отдел дизайна в Ben Sherman. – Если надеть это пальто поверх блейзера, получится новая шерстяная парка, которая продвигает классический стиляжий силуэт». Приобретает дафлкот и современный облик в этом сезоне. Так, в своей коллекции Raf дизайнер мужской одежды Кристофер Рэберн представил обновленную версию – стеганый дафлкот из высококачественного итальянского нейлона с мрачноватым ржавым принтом.
Дизайнеры женской одежды также активно адаптируют классический силуэт. Свою коллекцию осень/зима 2015/16 Мэри Катранзу охарактеризовала так: «историческая роскошь в противоположность техногенной утопии». Во время ее презентации модели выходили на подиум в туфлях на высоких каблуках, плотных цветных колготках и дафлкотах, украшенных ее фирменными яркими принтами.
Дафлкот выдерживает современные преобразования столь же непринужденно, как и более востребованные отсылки к ретро. Немногие пальто способны так легко приспосабливаться к запросам времени. gloverall.com, bensherman.com, christopherraeburn.co.uk, marykatrantzou.com
Дизайнерский бренд Lulu Guinness, известный своим культовым клатчем Lips, отмечает 25 лет со дня основания. Фрэнсис Васим берет интервью у озорного и типично британского дизайнера марки
В этом году Lulu Guinness отметил свой 25-летний стаж в индустрии британской моды. Это серьезное достижение для индустрии, в которой многие молодые дизайнеры с трудом выдерживают конкуренцию. Еще большую значимость придает этому событию тот факт, что в основе серии аксессуаров дизайнера лежала мимолетная идея и желание «сделать что-то выдающееся и заработать миллион».
В конце 1980-х, когда в моду входили большие подплечники, а на улицах появлялось все больше предпринимательниц, образ Мелани Гриффит в фильме «Деловая женщина» стал идеалом для целого поколения представительниц прекрасного пола. Портфель Lulu Guinness был предназначен как раз для такой женщины. «Это была просто идея, а не бренд», поясняет изящный дизайнер с алой помадой на губах (помада, конечно же, Mac Ruby Woo). «Никто не занимался созданием женских аксессуаров. Персональный органайзер Filofax в то время заменял мобильный телефон и ноутбук. Я просто обожала свой Filofax, и портфель был его идеальным дополнением».
Вскоре Лулу Гиннесс вышла замуж, и ей хотелось скорее покончить с киноиндустрией и перейти на работу из дома. «И конечно заработать миллион, как принято было говорить в те дни. Сейчас, конечно, уже хочется миллиард», – шутит она. Одним из ее даров было умение предвидеть тенденции. Ее портфель был одним из первых в своем роде аксессуаров для деловых женщин. «Я использовала самую дорогую кожу. Там было отделение для зонтика, а также для ключей. Подкладка была из красной или фиолетовой замши», – вспоминает Гиннесс. Эта сумка стала «лучшим стейтмент-аксессуаром всех времен».
54: A Very British Wit
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Так, блестящая идея помогла дизайнеру получить грант от Британского совета моды. Гиннесс хорошо помнит свой первый шоу-показ в рамках Лондонской Недели моды в 1991 году. «Я была на восьмом месяце беременности и Аня Хиндмарч подошла меня поприветствовать». Дизайнер славится своим озорным поведением, нашедшим проявление в ее творчестве. В ее работах проглядывается влияние Эльзы Скиапарелли и Сальвадора Дали, а коллекции изобилуют элементами из различных жанров искусства, включая иллюстрацию, архитектуру и дизайн мебели.
«Я хоть и дизайнер, но у меня есть свое мнение, не зависящее от трендов, – подчеркивает она. – Я бы никогда не поместила на сумку бахрому, только потому, что так сейчас модно». Философия бренда отражает личность самого дизайнера – она утонченна, остроумна и необычайно женственна. «Качество не менее важно для меня, – продолжает она. – Я использую лишь роскошную кожу и отделку. Мне хочется, что бы моя сумка выглядела на £600, при стоимости в £300. Когда люди покупают наши сумки, то платят за кожу и работу, а не за рекламную кампанию наших 27 магазинов».
Коллекции Lulu Guinness можно встретить по всему миру, особенно в Азии, Италии и Великобритании. Ежегодный оборот компании насчитывает 10 миллионов фунтов. Свой бизнес она основала в подвале дома, в котором она до сих пор живет и работает. «В самом начале я занималась всем сама, начиная с заполнения документации и заканчивая упаковкой изделий», – вспоминает она. Серьезный прогресс наступил после того, как лондонский Музей Виктории и Альберта поместил изображение одной из ее корзин с розами на плакат, посвященный выставке «50 лет моды». «Моя корзина с розами появилась на рекламе размером с дом. Это событие сыграло решающую роль в моей карьере, поскольку привлекло внимание публики, – говорит Гиннесс. – Не прошло и недели, как у моего дома стали парковаться Роллс-Ройсы с личными шаферами. Модели
и разного рода знаменитости, включая Джерри Холла, приезжали в западную часть Лондона, чтобы встретиться со мной».
Спустя 25 лет лица многих знаменитостей могли измениться, однако философия дизайна осталась прежней. Кейт Мосс, Алекса Чанг, Палома Фейт, Хелена Бонэм Картер – все они являются поклонниками сумок Гиннесс (особенно тех, что имеют форму губ). После замужества дизайнер взяла фамилию, которая знакома каждому англичанину, но помогла ли она ей завоевать популярность? «В самом начале я решила использовать в качестве логотипа имя “Lulu”, – говорит дизайнер. – Фамилию “Guinness” я специально попросила убрать, чтобы посмотреть, смогу ли я добиться успеха без ассоциаций с другими брендами». Очевидно, у нее все получилось, и сейчас Гиннесс является почетным членом британского модного сообщества. «Британские дизайнеры очень чувствительны и уязвимы, однако теперь, когда коммерческая сторона дела не отстает от креативной, нас никто не может ни в чем обвинять».
Коллекция Lulu Guinness осень-зима 2015/16 преисполнена английского остроумия и энергичности. Фраза «A little lipstick never hurts» вышита на украшенных пайетками черных клатчах, а на остальных моделях сумок уже который сезон подряд красуются самые разные лица. «Мне особо нравится наш дизайн “tape face”, – говорит Лулу. – Он был создан под вдохновением от работ Дональда Дроубертсона – креативного директора Bobbi Brown».
Удивительно, как спустя столько лет дизайнер не теряет своей актуальности. «Все дело в наблюдательности; мне очень нравятся социологические тренды. Также необходимо иметь недюжинное терпение и быть немного безумным. В тяжелые дни я порой думаю: “Что же я делаю? Я слишком стара для этого” – а в хорошие дни наоборот: “Боже мой, в нашем офисе трудятся 40 человек и все из-за моих идей” – это приводит меня в восторг».luluguinness.com
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Самые интересные дизайнеры Лондона активно осваивают ремесленные приемы и демонстрируют потрясающие результаты. Харриет Куик рассказывает о том, как уважаемые бренды обратились к хэндмейду и крафту
Пока модная индустрия предлагает нам один тренд за другим, все более заметным становится еще одно небольшое, но весьма изысканное явление в сфере роскоши. Все чаще лондонские дизайнеры обращаются к ремесленникам и применяют ремесленные техники, чтобы задействовать аутентичность, естественность и красоту профессионального хэндмейда. В модном контексте ручное творчество оказывается изысканным, а его влияние проявляется в самых разных формах: изящное кружево, авторский пэчворк, тюль, флок и выжженный бархат. Все это придает коллекциям осень/зима 2015/16 особую тактильность и неповторимую эстетику.
Кристофер Кейн, один из ведущих трендсеттеров Лондона, поймал искру вдохновения во время урока рисования с натуры, который он организовал для своей команды в студии на востоке Лондона. Автор объясняет это так: «Как только эти красивые рисунки проявились, я решил собрать силуэты в узор таким образом, чтобы можно было увидеть руку или часть торса, и чтобы фигуры на изображениях обнимали друг друга, трогали или стремились это сделать». Чтобы эффект был идеальным, Кейн обратился в швейцарское ателье кружева, где работают высококлассные специалисты. Авангардная певица и стильная звезда FKA Twigs одной из первых примерила чувственный наряд Кейна, чем вызвала массу разговоров на Met Gala и спровоцировала поток предзаказов.
Изысканность ручной работы не осталась незамеченной и Кристофером Бейли, который назвал свою коллекцию для Burberry “Patchwork, Pattern and Prints” («Печворк, узоры и принты»). В
60: Show Of Hands
Ловкость рук
ней прослеживается отсылка ко всеми любимому в этом сезоне стилю 1970-х. Каждый предмет гардероба демонстрирует разнообразные техники: аппликация, художественные швы, индийская зеркальная вышивка, ручная печать и вязаная отделка. Неуловимое соединение деталей, принтов и богатых оттенков оказалось завораживающим. Сарафаны с тесьмой и замшевые тренчи с цветочным принтом, конечно, уходят своими корнями в хиппи-коммуны 70-х. Тем не менее, 2015 год обозначил вкус к особой, созданной мастерами роскоши, а также, по всей видимости, попрощался с сияющей и нагруженной логотипами пышностью.
Нарастающий интерес к декоративным ремеслам, кажется, близок британской ментальности. Ведь именно в Англии родился Уилльям Моррис – зачинатель движения Arts and Crafs Movement, которое пришлось на поздний викторианский период. Моррис прославился своей решительной уверенностью в превосходстве ремесленничества над индустриальностью. Выставки William Morris Gallery демонстрируют плоды его деятельной увлеченности этой идеей. Модный дом Alexander McQueen многие годы поддерживает британские ремесла. Креативный директор Сара Бертон и ее команда находится в постоянном поиске с самыми разными специалистами: их интересует и перьевая вышивка, и шорные изделия, и бронзовое литье, и даже плюмаж для Королевской конной гвардии. Для новой коллекции марки Бертон придумала необычные цветочные формы в объеме из тюля, выработанного вручную и собранного в скульптурные силуэты. Эти изысканные вечерние платья были созданы под вдохновением от фотографий увядающих роз, снятых Дэвидом Симсом. Кожа и тюль образовали изысканную мозаику в корсетах, напоминающих клетки, а искусственно состаренное кружево восхитительно смотрелось в вечерних платьях. В природе не бывает «совершенства», и эта коллекция – хвалебная песнь Бертон красоте неидеальности.
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Дизайнер Микаэль ван дер Хам также сосредоточен на поиске удачных сочетаний в ремесленных техниках. Получив магистерскую степень в Central Saint Martins в 2009 году, он сделал бриколаж и пэчворк основой своего творчества. «Мне нравится так много разных тканей и вышивок, что я хочу использовать их все разом», – делится он своими ощущениями. Дизайнер соединяет разные цвета и текстуры роскошных тканей ручной работы, играет ими, создавая свои художественные платья. Микаэль ван дер Хам открыл сервис полу-кутюр в своей студии в лондонском Хакни, и одной из первых его клиенток стала актриса Хелена Бонем Картер.
Erdem также входит в число передовых брендов, интересующихся ремеслами в сфере моды. Для показа коллекции осень/зима 2015/16 дизайнер Эрдем Моралиоглу воссоздал комнаты в стиле 1960-х, наполнив их характерными для того времени предметами. Подобно персонажам пьесы, модели проходили сквозь эти пространства в платьях с корсажами из богатых жаккардовых тканей с необработанными краями. Это сочетание роскоши с небрежностью не только очаровательно аристократично. Оно повествует о ручном творчестве, объединяющем прагматизм и страсть.
Бренд Mulberry увлекся изучением интерьерного декора периода королей Георгов, обратив внимание на лепнину, каменную кладку и плиточные панели. Они стали источником вдохновения для тактильно насыщенной коллекции, в которую вошли твидовые пальто с рельефным эффектом, напоминающие лепнину, и короткие юбки из шелкового жаккарда. Всегда интересно попытаться представить новую коллекцию в каком-нибудь интересном месте. Мы думаем, что Lover’s Lace Кристофера Кейна живописно смотрелось бы на фоне саркофагов в Музее Виктории и Альберта, а великолепное лоскутное шитье Burberry прекрасно подходит духу нового Музея сэра Джона Соуна – сокровищнице антиквариата и декоративного искусства. Культурно
значимая мода всегда вознаграждается сторицей. christopherkane.com, burberry.com, alexandermcqueen.com, michaelvanderham.com, erdem.com, mulberry.com
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94: When You Shop The World,
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100
本季的Dufel粗呢大衣造型百变，无论鲜明的复古
风格还是十足的摩登气质，都将这一经典款式完美
诠释，Karen Munnis如是说
和春天的风衣一样，风格多变、男女皆宜的冬
款粗呢Dufel大衣也是广受青睐的经典款式之
一。2015/16年秋冬季，众多设计师放眼往昔汲取
灵感，打造出多款集实用功能与时尚气质于一身的
Dufel大衣。
传说这款大衣得名于比利时小镇迪弗尔
（Dufel）和当地盛产的厚羊毛面料；但其标
志性的阔兜帽与牛角扣设计，却是地道的英伦
特色。 19世纪末， Dufel大衣发轫于斯塔福
德郡（Stafordshire）。早期款式由鲁吉利镇
（Rugeley）的John Partridge工装公司出品，到20
世纪初首获英国海军部队的广泛青睐。宽松的剪裁
和敞阔的兜帽与制服、军帽完美适配，而骆驼皮革
制成的Dufel大衣更能帮士兵们抵挡海上的烈日刚
风。后来，为了让麾下将士一眼认出自己，连陆军元
帅蒙哥马利（Field Marshal Montgomery）也穿上
了Dufel大衣，而这种大衣也因而被昵称为“蒙帝大
衣（Monty）”。
富余的军供大衣一经外销即广获热捧。二十世
纪五、六十年代，Dufel大衣成为了风靡各地的衣
橱明星，最爱白色Dufel的诗人让·谷克多（Jean
Cocteau）亦是拥趸之一。童装大衣上也加入了牛角
扣与阔兜帽设计，连帕丁顿熊也穿上了一件蓝色的
Dufel大衣。格拉斯哥乐队Belle & Sebastian等音
乐界人士同样钟爱Dufel，1995年，Oasis 乐队甚至
在单曲《Roll With It》的光碟封面上全员穿着黑色
Dufel亮相。
战后，英国品牌 Gloverall 购买了一大批军用
Dufel大衣，并于1954年开始自产新版Dufel大
衣，其设计之路延续至今。Dufel大衣风靡不息的
秘密是什么？该品牌营销总监Mark Smith答曰：“
造型与功能。Dufel大衣已成为了英伦服饰之标杆
和衣橱必备之经典，任四季流转变换，轻松凸显时
尚风格；而且在天气频变之际，既能保持温暖，又能
免于潮湿。”
和同样历史久远的风衣一样，因其经久耐穿、
保暖性佳的特点，Dufel大衣多年以来一直备受
欢迎。Gloverall的团队在设计品牌系列的其他产
品时，依然沿用了Dufel大衣的经典元素。“木质
拴扣、牛角扣、皮绳、皮环等细节是Dufel大衣
的代名词，这些元素在我们的经典系列（Classic
设计师Lulu Guinness凭借经典的唇形手袋作品
声名鹊起，如今迎来了她在时尚界的第25个精彩年
头。这位活泼而幽默的设计师洋溢着典型的英伦风
范，与Frances Wasem相谈甚欢
今年是Lulu Guinness的里程碑年，她已经在英国
时尚界度过了25个春秋。年轻设计师想要跻身业
内已属不易，打造出如此驰名的奢侈品帝国更难如
登天。而这一切，始于喷薄的灵感和创业立世的雄
心——“成非常之事，得百万真金”。
阔肩女装广为流行的20世纪80年代末，女性
终于推开了职场大门。电影《上班女郎》（Working
美文翻译
48: Top Coat
顶级大衣
54: A Very British Wit
典型英式诙谐
Collection）当中随处可见。除此之外，在我们为每
一款夹克设计保护性元素的时候，Dufel大衣也是
一大重要灵感源泉。所以，即使是较为轻型款式也
要在工艺上保证质量，好让它能在抵抗恶劣环境的
同时，同时彰显超现代风范，”Smith如是说。
2015/16年秋冬季，Gloverall从经典体育故事
中寻求灵感，例如20世纪50年代英国一级方程式赛
车手Tony Brooks身着经典“蒙帝大衣”的黑白照
片。熟羊毛风格在当季款式中稍添流线感，更加入了
赛跑图案缝饰和扣针元素。
着眼往昔探求Dufel设计灵感的不仅Gloverall
一家，英国品牌Ben Sherman也于2015/16秋冬
季对Dufel进行了重新设计。“之所以有此想法，
是因为我们想打造能与英国青年文化产生关联的
服装，” 设计总监Mark Williams说道。“披在西
装外面，Dufel就成了当季的新款羊毛外罩，给
经典的英伦现代主义（Mod）造型添加了新的魅
力。”2015/16秋冬款 Dufel大衣也被赋予了现代
风格。男装设计师Christopher Reaburn在他的
Raft系列中，选用优质意大利尼龙面料，饰以气质
忧郁的锈色印花，打造出富有创意的夹棉Dufe大
衣。
女装设计中同样不乏Dufel的身影。在设计
师Mary Katrantrou的2015/16年秋冬系列新品
中，她将“华丽的传统元素与现代科技幻想巧妙结
合”。穿着高跟鞋和不透明紧身裤袜的模特迈上T
台，Dufel大衣上前卫大胆的标志性印花分外夺
目。
不论是大刀阔斧的新锐改造还是重温经典复古
元素，Dufel都能游刃有余。风格如此灵动多变，试
问有多少大衣款式能够做到呢？
gloverall.com, bensherman.com,
christopherraeburn.co.uk,
marykatrantzou.com
101
Girl）中的女主角Melanie Grifth就荣升为新一代
女性之楷模。主张“成非常之事”的Lulu Guinness
为这类女性打造了专属的公文包。“这是一种理念，
而非一个品牌。”这位身材娇小的设计师如是说；
一支Mac牌Ruby Woo复古红唇膏衬得她唇红齿
白。“我们需要有人来设计专属于女性的办公用
品。Filofax笔记本可以将手机和电脑的功能合二为
一。我深深着迷于我的Filofax，我自己的公文包设
计也是从这一理念中延伸而来。”
新婚后，原本从事影片剪辑的Guinness寻觅着
一份足不出户便能完成的工作。“还得寻觅你说过
的‘百万真金’哪！不过现在已经是‘十亿’真金了。”
听到Frances Wasem打趣的提醒，她露出了极富感
染力又温暖四溢的笑容。以“得风气之先”为追求，
她设计出了既实用又美观的女士公文包。“我采用了
最昂贵的皮革面料。包内留出了放置雨伞和钥匙的
空区，衬里用的是红色或紫色的绒面革，”Guinness
回忆道。后来，这款女包成为了“有史以来最重要的
时尚宣言”。
这一灵机之作获得了英国时尚协会（British
Fashion Council）的赞赏。Guinness清晰地记
得1991年她的伦敦时装周处女秀上的场景。“当时
我怀孕八个月，Anya Hindmarch 走过来向我致
意。”Guinness不仅以活泼的设计风格而著称，
还擅于从插画、建筑和家具设计等众多艺术领域
中借鉴灵感，运用到自己的作品当中（设计师Elsa
Schiaparelli和画家Salvador Dalí都对她影响颇
深）。
“作为一名有想法的设计师，我不会随波逐
流，”她强调说。“我不会只因为当前流行穗饰，就在
设计时加入这个元素。”品牌的基因也反映着设计
师的个性——Guinness其人极为讲究、聪颖睿智，
充满了女性魅力。“对我来说品质也非常重要，”她继
续说道。“我想让标价300欧元的手袋在人们眼中如
同价值600欧元，因此选用了奢华的皮革面料和处
理方式。购买我设计的手袋，其实是支付了面料和手
工成本，而非为全球27家商铺的广告费埋单。
Guinness设计的手袋因而畅销世界，尤其风
靡于亚洲、意大利和英国。品牌的全球营业额如今
已达到1000万英镑。Guinness在她居所的地下室
里孕育了自己的企业，而今她依然居住在这座房子
里。“创业初期我一个人干所有的活，填表格、包装产
品，”她回忆道。当伦敦的维多利亚和阿尔伯特博物馆
（Victoria and Albert Museum）将她设计的玫瑰
花篮印在“50年时尚展”（ 50 Years of Fashion）
海报上，Guinness终于能享受长假了。“我的玫瑰
花篮有楼房那么大，一下子就引起了公众的兴趣，从
而改变了一切，”Guinness说。随后几周，“由专人驾
驶的劳斯莱斯在我的屋外排成了长龙。Jerry Hall等
名人和模特纷纷前来西伦敦找我。”
25年倏忽而逝。于Guinness而言，变化的是
名流们的容颜，不变的是她的设计理念。她设计
的手拿包拥趸如云（特别是那些唇形款式），Kate
Moss、Alexa Chung、Paloma Faith 和Helena
Bonham Carter等名流皆在其列。Guinness早年
嫁入豪门，联想到20世纪80年代英国人旗帜鲜明
的阶级意识，不禁让人好奇：这桩婚事有没有带来
任何机遇之门？“我创业之初就用 ‘Lulu’作为商
标，”这位设计师坦言。“接受采访时，我会向对方提
出去掉我的夫姓‘Guinness’。我只想知道能否以自
己的名义做设计。”显然，答案是肯定的，如今的她
已在英国时尚界功成名就。“英国设计师总是敏感而
又脆弱，因为过去我们的商业成就总是落后于创意
水准。所幸这两者已日渐齐平，我们便无需再担忧他
人的质疑。”
Guinness的2015/16年秋冬系列中充溢着
英式诙谐与能量。黑色手袋饰以小金属片，再印
上一句“A little lipstick never hurts（些许口红
总无妨）”。各式各样的脸谱图案成为了延续数季
的灵感源泉。“胶带拼贴而成的脸谱着实令我着
迷，”Guinness说。“Bobbi Brown 公司创意总监
Donald Drawbertson的作品让我深受启发。”占
据时尚潮头多年，她是如何做到的？“在设计界，洞
察力不可或缺，而我对社会趋势十分着迷。强大的
适应力和些许疯狂也很必要。情绪低落时，我会自
疑——明明已经老得玩不动时尚了，我还在做什么？
心情不错时，我又会惊叹——工作室里的40人得以
忙碌，只因我的脑中迸发着灵感，我何其荣幸！”
luluguinness.com
伦敦最杰出的设计师们正将手工技艺演绎得出神入
化。Harriet Quick剖析诸多品牌，带您一一鉴赏手
工制品、地道珍品与精雕细刻
时尚之轮前进不息，潮流接踵而至。在奢侈品界，一
组规格更小而更精微复杂的齿轮亦已转动。伦敦的
设计师与专业工匠协力，以精湛的手工技艺打造真
实、诚挚、净粹之作。不论是手缝蕾丝、画面拼缝、
手织薄纱还是植绒和烧花丝绒，都是高雅精巧而非
手工拙朴之品。2015/16年秋冬系列正是因此而充
满了质感和文化意趣。
英国时尚先锋之一Christopher Kane为伦敦东
部工作室的团队安排了一堂写生课，新季的灵感正
是源于此课堂。“美丽画作涌现眼前，我不禁想把它
们的轮廓用蕾丝拼贴出来。画作上的所有人都在相
互拥抱、轻抚，于是我决定把手臂或身体部分表现
到蕾丝的纹理中来，”Kane解释道。为实现心目中的
60: Show Of Hands
巧手天工
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102
当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时，
环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free
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理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取
现金退税手续费。
94: When You Shop The World,
Shop Tax Free
畅购全球，尊享退税
效果，他在瑞士的一家蕾丝工作室与技艺高超的工
匠联手合作。前卫音乐人、当红潮人FKA Twigs首
先尝试了这一性感的设计，旋即在纽约大都会艺术
博物馆慈善舞会（Met Gala）上引起了轰动，预订
热潮也随之涌来。
Christopher Bailey为Burberry设计的精巧
手工作品同样备受瞩目，他将其称作“拼贴-图案-印
花”系列，迎合了人们对二十世纪七十年代风格的热
爱。每件单品都蕴含着诸多技艺——缝饰、假缝、印
度镜绣、手工印染、钩针编织一应俱全。外在细节、
印花与多姿多彩的植物印染巧妙搭配、相得益彰，
尽显无限魅力。颇具层次感的围嘴裙与花饰绒面革
风衣源自于七十年代的嬉皮文化；2015年，新的设
计指引了奢侈品界的手工风潮。也许，我们终将告别
琳琅闪耀的奢侈标牌。
对装饰性工艺品的浓烈兴趣似乎与英国人的
性格息息相关。毕竟，这里乃是后维多利亚时期英
格兰艺术与手工运动先驱威廉·莫里斯（William
Morris）的出生地。相较于机器制作的工业产品，
莫里斯坚信手工制品有其优越之处。这种对手工艺
的执着从威廉·莫里斯美术馆的展品中亦可窥见一
二。
Alexander McQueen长期资助英国工匠。由
品牌创意主管Sarah Burton带领团队四处寻访来
自各行各业的名工巧匠，绣匠、鞍具专家、铜艺师，
乃至皇家骑兵卫队的毛发护理师，形形色色汇聚一
堂。新品系列中，Burton从摄影师David Sims的
作品中汲取灵感，将画面中的渐枯玫瑰精心缝制在
晚礼裙上，手工绢网闪耀3D特效。皮革与薄纱饰以
细木镶嵌，塑造笼状束腰，更有迷乱蕾丝点缀以打
造华美晚礼裙。Burton借天然拙朴为不完美之美献
一曲赞歌。
手工技艺的欢乐碰撞亦是设计师Michael van
der Ham作品的灵魂。2009年，他便以拼装为主
题，完成了中央圣马丁艺术学院的硕士毕业设计。
“百变的织物与刺绣让我着迷，真想在作品里将它
们 ‘一网打尽’，”他回想起在某次设计中，各种色彩
与质地的手工织物错落眼前，端详把玩间迸发出衣
裙创意。他位于伦敦Hackney的工作室提供时装半
定制服务，女星Helena Bonham Carter便是首批
顾客之一。
另一品牌Erdem同样擅于将天然拙朴和精致
细节巧妙结合。在2015/16年秋冬大秀上，设计师
Erdem Moralioğlu在颇具20世纪60年代风格的家
居环境中展示自己的新作，四周布满个性物件。
闲庭信步的模特上衣紧束，裙沿丰富的提花织
物辅以精妙磨边，宛如戏中角色；既彰显贵族气息
又不乏质朴亲和元素，实用主义与热情创意相得益
彰。Mulberry团队同样从内饰工艺上获得灵感，设
计师从乔治王时代的灰泥、琢石艺术和瓷砖图案上
寻获启发，打造出质感极佳、气质奢华的服装系列，
其中包括自由舒展的粗花呢外套，以及饰有真丝提
花的大摆短裙。
我们不妨把每一件时尚新品都与某一个地
点联系起来。观赏维多利亚和阿尔伯特博物馆
（Victoria and Albert Museum）的雕花石棺时，
最宜身着Christopher Kane设计的“爱之蕾丝”
（Lover’s Lace）裙装，两者相映成趣，唯美如
画；来到重新开放的约翰·索恩博物馆（Sir John
Soane’s Museum），徜徉于珍稀古董和装饰艺术
品间，Burberry的拼装华服便再合适不过了。浸染
文化气韵的时装总会带给穿者别样魅力。
christopherkane.com,
burberry.com,
alexandermcqueen.com,
michaelvanderham.com,
erdem.com,
mulberry.com
103
نظّمه لفريقه ف الستديو الخاص به شق لندن. ويفّس قائلً: "تّخضت عن الصف رسوم جميلة فقررت أن أجمعها عل قمش مخرّم فيبدو وكأّن يداً أو طرفاً آخر من الجسم – يحاول معانقة الخر أو لسه." عمل Kane مع فنيي يضطلعون بهارات عالية ف محتف لصنع القمش الخرّم ف سويسا للتوّصل إل التصميم
FKA الذي أراده. فكان الوسيقي الشهي وأسطورة الزياءTwigs أّول من ارتدى إحدى هذه التصاميم الراقية لتتسلّط عليه
الضواء ف سهرة Met Galaوتنهال الطلبات عليها ف ما بعد. ل يكن العمل اليدوي العّقد بالسهل بالنسبة إل
Christopher Bailey ف دار Burberry الذي أطلق عل مجموعته إسم Patchwork, Pattern and Prints وحاك
حواس عشاق الصيحات التسعينية. تضّمنت كّل قطعة تقنيات متنوعة من التزيي الرقعي والدرز والتطريز الهندي العاكس
والنقوش الطبوعة يدوياً والكروشيه. ول شّك أّن الدمج البارع بي التفاصيل الخارجية والنقشات والصبغات النباتية الغنيّة آٌس. فيم
يعود أصل فساتي الطبقات القصية بل أكمم ومعاطف الجلد الزخرفة بالزهور إل عص السبعينيات، تشي بوادر عام 2015
إل ميل نحو الفخامة الحرفية، لعلّها تشّكل نهاية حقبة اللبس اللمعة الحّملة بشعارات العلمات.
يبدو أّن الهتمم الصبوب عل الحرف الزخرفية يتناسب William والعقليّة ال–يطانية. بالفعل، فهنا مسقط رأس
Morris رائد حركة الفنون والحرف ف أواخر حقبة انكلتا
الفيكتورية. اشتهر Morris بإيانه القوي بتفّوق النتجات الحرفية عل النتجات الصناعية التي تولّدها اللت. ويقّدم معرض
William Morris نوذجاً عن هذه العمل أثناء صنعها.
لطالا دعم الصمم Alexander McQueen حرفيي بريطانيا. بقيادة مديرة البتكار Sarah Burton، يبحث فريق
العلمة التجارية عن كّل أنواع التخصصي ويتعاون معهم، من خ–اء التطريز بالريش إل متمرّس الساجة وخ–اء ال–ونز وحتّى التخصصي السؤولي عن تنفيذ تصاميم الريش للفرسان حراس Burton اللكة. ف مجموعة العلمة التجارية الخية، ابتكرت
أزهاراً ثلثية البعاد من قمش التول الجموع يدوياً لفساتي David السهرة الستوحاة جزئيّاً من ُصور الزهار الذابلة للمصور
Sims. أخيطت ب–اعة أقمشة التول مع الجلد فتمّخضت عنها
كورسيهات تشبه القفاص فيم تحّولت أقمشة الدانتيل فساتَيBurton سهرة فاتنة. ل كمَل ف الطبيعة، تلك كانت طريقة
ح جمل النقص. لتسبّيشّكل استكشاف حوادث العمل اليدوي السعيدة نقطة أساسية للمصمم Michael van der Ham. امتهن اللصق
Central والتقيع منذ أن حاز شهادة الاجستي ف جامعةSaint Martins للفنون عام 2009. وعند التحّدث إليه أثناء
شبكه النسجة وجمعه ألوان القمشة الحرفية الفاتنة لبتكار الفساتي الخلقة قال: "عدد القمشة والطرزات التي أحبها كبٌي،
لذلك أرغب ف أن تشمل تصاميمي كّل شء." كان قد بدأ بتقديم خدمات خياطة جزئية ف محتفه ف Hackney وشّكلت المثّلة
Helena Bonham Carter أحد أّول زائريه.
تُعت– Erdem علمة تجارية أخرى تُعرف بزج الخام والصقول. فقد عرض الصمم Erdem Moralioğlu مجموعته
لخريف صيف 2015/2016 ف سلسلة قاعات يسود فيها جّوزة. جالت العارضات ف الغرف الستينيات وتلؤها الغراض الميّ
ات ف مسحية، إذ ارتدين سلسلة فساتي قصية وكأنّهّن شخصيّضيّقة عل الصدر مصنوعة من مزيج ذكّ ما بي أقمشة الجاكار
الغنية والطراف النسلة. تبدو قّصة صنع هذه التصاميم من قطع قدية أرستقراطيًة ساحرة فهي تعكس الشغف والطابع الواقعّي
لها. رأى فريق عمل Mulberry ف تزيي القاعات بقطعٍ حرفيّة أمراً أساسياً، فلجأ إل الجص الجورجي وحجر البناء والقرميد
كمصدر بصي للمجموعة الساسية الغنية التي تضّم ف الساس معاطف صوفية خشنة وبعض اللبس الخرى كتناني الجاكارد
الحريرية القصية. وكم من الفيد أن نكون عل علم بالكان الذي سيتّمفيه كشف النقاب عن الجموعات الجديدة. ف–أينا ستبدو
تصاميم Kane’s Lover من الدانتيل ساحرة وسط نواويس متحف Victoria and Albert، فيم ستكون روعة تصاميم
Sir John Soane الرقّعة مثالية للتجّول ف متحف Burberryالذي تّت إعادة فتحه حديثاً ليضّم كنزاً من الثار والفنون
الزخرفية. فل بّد للزياء التي تزخر بالثقافة أن تلقي نجاحاً مدوياً. christopherkane.com، burberry.com
،alexandermcqueen.com ،michaelvanderham.com ،erdem.com
mulberry.com
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طمحت "أن تقّد“ عملً مختلفاً يدّر لها الليي." ف نهاية التسعينيات، كانت موضة الستات البطّنة الكتاف
رائجة فيم حاولت النساء شّق طريقهّن ف مجال إدارة العمل Working Girl ف فيلم Melanie Griffith فتحّولت
Luluقدوة يحتذي بها جيٌل كامل من النساء. من هنا عملتGuinness عل "فكرتها الجديدة" فقّدمت حقيبة للنساء
Ruby العاملت. تفّس الصممة الرشيقة التي تضع أحمر الشفاهWoo من Mac قائلًة: "بدأُت أولً بفكرة، وليس بعلمة تجارية.
ففي تلك الفتة، ل يعمل أحد عل تصميم أكسسوارات عمل للنساء. جَمَعت مدّونة Filofax ما بي هاتف خليوي وحاسوب
وكنت مهووسة بها. من هنا جاءت فكرة الحقيبة لتكّملها."ف تلك الفتة، كانت Guinness قد تزّوجت حديثاً وتبحث
عن طريقة لتنتقل من مجال مونتاج الفل“ إل مهنة تتيح لها العمل من النزل. تقول وهي تضحك "ف البدء أردت أن أجني
الليي. أّما اليو“ فطموحي أن أجني الليارات" فتشّع منها طاقة ودفء معديان. توفّقت بعملها لنّها كانت الرائدة ف توقّع صيحة
جديدة قبل أن تبدأ حتى، فشّكلت الحقيبة التي صّممتها الول من نوعها – حقيبة لنساء العمل عملية وجميلة ف آن. تتذكّر Guinness قائلة: "استخدمت أ”ل نوع من الجلد وضّمت
الحقيبة جيوباً للمظلّة والفاتيح مبطّنة بجلد الغزال الحمر أو الرجوان." تحّولت الحقيبة إل "أهّم صيحة أطلِقت ف عال
الزياء!"British Fashion “ّبفضل هذه الفكرة الرائعة، كر
Council الصّممة عل عملها. ول تزال حتى اليو“ تتذكّر أّول
عرض لها ف أسبوع الوضة ف لندن عا“ 1991: "كنت حاملً ف الشهر الثامن واقتبت مّني Anya Hindmarch لتّحب
ب." يُعرف عن Guinness تصّفها الشاكس وتعتمد ف Elsa Schiaparelli مجموعاتها عل آلف الراجع )ل سيّم من
وSalvador Dalí( فتعكس التصوير والهندسة العمرية وهندسة الثاث ف ما تقّدمه.
تشّدد قائلًة: "أنا مصّممة تتمتّع برأي، ولست شخصاً يحاول إطلق صيحات. لن أعمد أبداً إل تصميم حقيبة مع شاشيب
لّن الوضة تقض بذلك." تعكس هويّة العلمة التجارية شخصيّة الصّممة – فهي راقية ومشاكسة وتتميّز بأنوثة طبيعيّة. تتابع:
"أركّز أيضاً عل الجودة، فألجأ إل الجلد الفاخر وأحرص عل إنهاء الحقيبة بدقّة. أريد أن يعتقد الناس أّن هذه الحقيبة تكلّف 600
جنيه استليني ف حي أنّها تُباع بـ 300. فمن يشتي حقيبة من تصميمي يدفع ثن الجلد وجودة الصناعة، وليس ثن حملة
إعلنية لـ27 متجراً ف العال." بالضافة إل ذلك، تُباع حقائب Guinness ف جميع أنحاء
العال، ل سيّم ف آسيا وإيطاليا والملكة التحدة. تصل قيمة البيعات الكليّة للشكة عالياً إل 10 مليي جنيه استليني. أّسست
Guinness شكتها ف طابق منزلها السفل الذي ل تزال تسكن
وتصّمم الحقائب فيه.تعود بها الذاكرة إل الوراء فتقول: "ف البدء تولّيت جميع الها“، فكنت السؤولة عن ملء الستمرات وتعليب
النتجات." حصلت عل فرصتها الذهبية عندما ضّم متحف Victoria and Albert حقيبة صّممتها بشكل سلّة ورد عل
ملصقات احتفاله بذكرى مرور خمسي عاماً عل افتتاح معرض الزياء. تقول Guinness: "ُعرضت ملصقات عل طول البان
تصّور حقيبة سلّة الورد فساهمت كثياً بازدهاري بعد أن حاكت
Rolls-Royce خيال الاّرين." ف ”ضون أسابيع "وقفت سياراتيقودها سائقون بالصف خارج منزل وتوّجه مشاهي وعارضات
أزياء مثل Jerry Hall إل ”رب لندن للعثور عّل."بعد 25 عاماً، تبّدلت وجوه الشاهي، لكّن فكرة التصميم
Alexa Chungو Kate Moss بقيت عينها. انضّمت كّل منوPaloma Faith وHelena Bonham Carter إل نادي Lips ل سيّم بتصميم الشفاه ،Guinness العجبي بحقائب
منها. اقتنت الصّممة برجل ترّدد اسم عائلته عل كّل شفة ولسان ف الثمنينيات ف بريطانيا، فهل مّهد لها ذلك طريق النجاح؟
تجيب: "عندما بدأت التصميم، استخدمت اسم Lulu وطلبت ف القابلت أل يتّم استخدا“ إسم Guinness إذ أردت أن أكتشف إن كنت سأنجح ف التصميم لوحدي." بالفعل، حّققت نجاحاً باهراًوباتت الن عضواً فخوراً ف عال تصميم الزياء البيطان. "ف البدء، كان الصممون البيطانيون حساسي ومعرّضي؛ لكن اليو“، بعد أن
ذاع صيتنا بفضل إبداعنا، ل يعد بإمكان أحد التعرّض لنا." تعكس مجموعة Guinness لخريف/شتاء 2015/2016
A little lipstick خفة الد“ والطاقة البيطانية. فتى عبارةnever hurts مطّرزة عل حقيبة سوداء لّاعة، ف حي بقيت
الوجوه مصدر إلها“ الصّممة لعّدة مواسم. ل تزال مجموعة Tape Face تثي اهتم“ Guinnessوأثناء التحّدث عنها
قالت: "استوحيتها من Donald Drawbertson الذي يعمل .Bobbi Brown مديراً إبداعياً ف
كيف –ّكنت بعد مرور كّل هذه العوا“ أن تبقى عصيّة؟ "دائاً ما أراقب وأنتبه لبسط التفاصيل، إذ تثي التوّجهات
الجتمعية إعجاب. ف الوقت عينه، ينبغي أن أتحّل برونة ولسة جنونية. ف اليا“ الصعبة أتساءل لاذا ل أزال أعمل فأنا قد كبت
ف السن ول أعد قادرة عل الستمرار ف هذا الجال. لكن ف القابل أعيش أياماً سعيدة أشعر فيها بالمتنان عندما أرى 40
شخصاً يعملون ف مكتبي لنّني أقّد“ أفكاراً للعال."luluguinness.com
بدأ الصممون الكث إثارة ف لندن باعتمد تقنيات حرفية تنعكس تأثياً مذهلً. ها هي Harriet Quick تعطي لحة عن العلمات
التجارية التي تلجأ إل الصناعة اليدوية الصيلة والحرفية
فيم تستمّر عجلة عال الزياء بالدوران مولّدًة صيحة بعد الخرى، بدأ قطاع اللبس العالية الجودة ييل باتّجاٍه مختلف. إذ يتعاون مصممو لندن مع حرفيي متخصصي ويلجؤون إل تقنيات حرفية لبتكار تصاميم تجّسد الصالة والنزاهة وبراعة الصناعة اليدوية.
وتتجّل هذه التقنيات رقياً ل مكان فيه للبتذال ف مجموعة تصاميم متنوعة تتاوح بي القمش الخرّ“ الناعم واللبس الرقّعة
التي تروي ألف حكاية وحكاية وقمش التول الجموع يدوياًوالصوف والخمل الحروق. بفضل هذه التقنيات الساحرة،
اكتسبت مجموعات خريف/شتاء 2015/2016 مزايا جملية ملموسة وراقية.
يُعتب Christopher Kane أحد أبرز خباء الطللت والصيحات، وقد استوحى من صّف لرسم عارضة عارية كان قد
60: Show Of Hands
استعراض الهارات
105
ترجمة باللغة العربيّة
تختلف صيحات العاطف الواقية من الطر هذا الوسم، فبعضها قديم الطراز والخر حديث. بحسب Karen Munnis تنطبق جميع الصيحات عل العطف الكلسيك الذي يكن ارتداؤه عل
الجانبَي
يحظى العطف الشتوي الواقي من الطر الذي يكن قلبه علالجهة الخرى بشعبية كبية ف صفوف النساء والرجال وهو
بأهميّة العطف الشّمع الربيعي. استوحى عّدة مصّممي مجموعاتهم لخريف/شتاء 2015/2016 من الاض فضّموا إليها
هذا العطف الذي يجمع بي الجانب العمل والناقة. يُعتقد أّن العطف قد ُسّمي تيّمناً ببلدة Duffel البلجيكية التي تشتهر بتصنيع الصوف السميك عينه الذي ُصنع منه، لكّن تصميم هذا العطف الواقي من الطر بقلنسوته الكبية وعرواته الخشبية
هو تصميم انكليزي بحت. ف أواخر التسعينيات، أصبحت شكة John Partridge لللبسة الواقعة ف Rugeley ف مدينة
Staffordshire رائدًة ف صناعة هذه العاطف. ف بداية
التسعينيات، انتشت ف صفوف القوات البحرية البيطانية حيث فّضل الجنود اللون البني الفاتح منها لتقيهم من ظروف البحر
القاسية – فبم أنّها واسعة، يكنهم ارتداؤها بسهولة فوق بّذاتهم وقبعاتهم العسكرية. بعد فتة، بات هذا العطف يُعرف باسم
Field Marshal Montgomery إذ اعتاد الشي Monty
ارتداءه حتى يتعرّف عليه رجاله بسهولة. duffel عند بيع اللبس العسكرية الفائضة للناس، لقى معطف
رواجاً وتحّول إل صيحة ف الخمسينيات والستينيات. ومن بي من ارتدوه Jean Cocteau الذي فّضل اللون البيض منه. أضيفت عات الكبية التي –يّز بها إل معاطف الطفال بعد العروات والقبّ
أن ُصّورت الشخصية الكرتونية Paddington Bear ترتدي اللون الزرق منه. عرف هذا العطف رواجاً عل الساحة الوسيقية
Belle and Sebastian ل سيّم بعد أن ارتداه أعضاء فرقةالوسيقية من غلسغو، ومن ثّم جميع أفراد فرقة Oasis باللون
السود لتصوير غلف أغنيتهم Roll With It عام 1995.اشتت علمة Gloverall التجارية البيطانية حقوق بيع معاطف duffel العسكرية، وعام 1954 بدأت تصّنع نسختها
الخاصة منها التي ل تزال تصّممها حتى اليوم. ما الذي يفّساستمرار نجاح هذا العطف؟ يشح Mark Smith مدير
البيعات والتسويق للعلمة التجارية قائلً: “يعود الفضل إل شكله والغاية منه. فقد استحّق العطف أن يكتسب مكانة مميّزة لدى البيطانيي وأصبح قطعة أساسية ل تنتهي موضتها أبداً لنّها
تعكس الناقة بكّل سهولة من موسم إل آخر وتقي من يرتديها البد والطر.”
عل ”رار العطف الشّمع الذي يتمتّع بدوره بإرث عريق، يعود فضل شيوع معطف duffel إل سهولة ارتدائه وتأمينه الدفء للبسيه أثناء أشهر الشتاء القارسة. دائاً ما يضّم فريق Gloverall عناصه الكلسيكية ف تصاميم مجموعة العلمة
التجارية الخرى. يقول Smith “تشّكل التفاصيل عل ”رار
48: Top Coat
العطف الفضل
العروات الخشبية والرباط الصنوع من الحبال أو الجلد رمزاًلهذا العطف وهي تفاصيل نضّمها ف مجموعتنا الكلسيكية.
ف اللبس الخرى، يبقى هذا العطف مصدر إلها“ أساس عند تصميم الجانب الواقي للستات التي نصّنعها. بالتال طّورنا تقنيّات
مدروسة تسمح حتى للملبس الخفيفة بأن تكون واقية وعصية ف الوقت عينه.”
لجموعة خريف/شتاء 2015/2016، استمّدت علمة Gloverall وحيها من القصص الرياضية التاريخية، عل ”رار
الصور التي التُقطت ف الخمسينيات بالسود والبيض لسائق Monty مرتدياً معطف Tony Brooks الفورمول 1 البيطان
الكلسيك. ف تصميمت هذا الوسم، تضّم العاطف صوفاً أكث انسيابيًة ورسوماً ومشابَك مزخرفة ومستوحاة من السباقات.
ليست Gloverall العلمة التجارية الوحيدة التي نفضت الغبار عن الاض لتستوحي تصاميم معاطف جديدة. إذ أعادت علمة Ben Sherman التجارية البيطانية تصميم العطف Mark لتضّمه ف مجموعة خريف/شتاء 2015/2016. يفّسWilliams رئيس قسم التصميم ف Ben Sherman قائلً:
“توّصلنا إل هذه الفكرة بعد أن بحثنا عن ملبس لها علقة بثقافة الشباب البيطانية. فعندما يرتدي أحد هذا العطف فوق ستته، يتحّول الخي إل الستة الصوفية الواقية الكث رواجاً لهذا الوسم
والتي تعكس تأنقاً كلسيكياً.”بات العطف رائجاً ف مجموعات خريف/شتاء
2015/2016. ففي مجموعة Raft، لجأ مصمم اللبس الرجالية
Christopher Raeburn إل النايلون اليطال العال الجودة
وأضاف لسة بلون الصدأ ليتمّخض عن تصميمه معطف مبطّن وعصي.
ظهر العطف الواقي أيضاً ف تصاميم اللبس النسائية. Mary ففي مجموعة خريف/شتاء 2015/2016 للمصممة
Katrantzou التي ُوصفت بأنّها تعرض “وفرة الرث إزاء التطّور
الثال”، سارت العارضات عل النّصة مرتديات معاطف واقية بطبعات جريئة )تُعرف لكونها لسة الصممة الخاصة( مع أحذية
عالية الكعوب وساويل ضيّقة داكنة اللوان.تضّم هذه العاطف لسات عصية وعريقة ف الوقت عينه
وقليلة هي العاطف التي يكن تكييفها مع كّل الحقبات. ،gloverall.com ،bensherman.com
،christopherraeburn.co.uk
marykatrantzou.com
تحتفل Lulu Guinness الشهورة بتصميم حقائب الشفاه Frances برور 25 عاماً عل دخولها عال الزياء. ها هي Lips
Wasem تلتقي الصممة البيطانية الصيلة الخفيفة الظّل.
احتفلت Lulu Guinness هذا العا“ بحطة مهّمة ف حياتها فقد مّر25 عاماً عل دخولها عال الزياء البيطان. يُعتب هذا
النجاز كبياً ف مهنة ”الباً ما يكافح فيها الصممون الشباب للبقاء. ويبدو النجاز أهّم وأكب عندما نعي أّن مجموعة أزيائها التي
تحمل إسمها إّنا –ّخضت عن فكرة بسيطة تبادرت إل ذهن فتاة
54: A Very British Wit
فطنة بريطانية بحتة
SOUVENIR
106 | PRODUC TS
Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 94
a dazzling array of fne jewellery. Founded in 1999, the company is committed to the concept of British luxury, and designs its own fne jewellery and watches as well as ofering a beautifully curated selection from some of the world’s most respected brands. The company’s commitment to excellence, both in its wares and its outstanding service, is recognised in the royal warrant it holds. hlGraham Overlord Mark III watch, £4,500, William & Son, 34-36 Bruton Street, London W1J 6QX, +44 (0)20 7493 8385,williamandson.com
* for map go to page 81
GREAT BRITS
With its colourful face, stainless steel casing and black rubber strap, this striking watch will make a unique addition to any gentleman’s collection. Fine watchmaker Graham was founded in London in 1695 and is known for its exquisite pieces, which are designed with a decidedly British feel and crafted by experts in Switzerland. This is just one of many luxurious watches available at the William & Son boutique on Bruton Street, which also ofers
T H E O R I G I N A L A M E R I C A N B R A N D
