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2014Lettres de ChâteauxMarie-Stéphane Malbec
[email protected]+33 5 56 44 63 50
v i n t a g eP r e s s p a c k
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C O N T E N T S
THE 2014 VINTAGE IN BORDEAUX « Persistence Rewarded » .......................................................................................................................................Château Castera, Cru Bourgeois, Médoc ...................................................................................................................Château Talbot, Grand Cru Classé en 1855, Saint-Julien .................................................................................Château Paveil de Luze, Cru Bourgeois, Margaux ................................................................................................Château Marquis de Terme, Grand Cru Classé en 1855, Margaux ............................................................Château Belle-Vue, Château de Gironville, Crus Bourgeois, Haut-Médoc and Château Bolaire, Bordeaux Supérieur...................................................................................................................Château Cantemerle, Grand Cru Classé en 1855, Haut-Médoc and Château Grand Corbin, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé ......................................................................................................................................Château Sénéjac, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Médoc .......................................................................................................Château de Malleret, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Médoc ................................................................................................Château Carbonnieux, Grand Cru Classé, Graves ...............................................................................................Château Fonplégade, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé .......................................................................................Château de Pressac, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé ......................................................................................Château Chauvin, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé .............................................................................................Château Rouget, Pomerol .....................................................................................................................................................
THE 2014 VINTAGE IN SAUTERNES AND BARSAC« A superb vintage right across Sauternes that has produced lively, pure, well-defined wines with power and exceptional balance. » ............................................................................Château Guiraud, Grand Cru Classé en 1855, Sauternes ................................................................................
THE 2014 VINTAGE IN LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLONVignobles Lorgeril, Languedoc-Roussillon ....................................................................................................................Château de Caraguilhes, Corbières ...............................................................................................................................
THE 2014 VINTAGE IN PROVENCEChâteau Lauzade, Côtes de Provence ..........................................................................................................................
THE 2014 VINTAGE IN BANDOLDomaine de La Bégude, Bandol .......................................................................................................................................
THE 2014 VINTAGE IN BOURGOGNE« The 2014 vintage in Bourgogne: All the makings of a great» ....................................................................Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne ........................................................................................................................................
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T H E 2 0 1 4 V I N T A G E I N B O R D E A U X
Persistence Rewarded
In August we were looking at a very average vintage; in September we had hopes of a normal vintage; by November we were talking about a good vintage! Suffice it to say that this vintage, saved from the rain, has come a long way. The reason? Initially chaotic weather conditions made us fear the worst until the sun came out at the end of August, and granted the vines two months of warmth and light and an unexpected guarantee of quality.
Winter 2014 was mild but wet. May was mostly cool. June was magnificent with storms but much higher sunshine than average. July was fairly mediocre. We had been hoping for higher temperatures in August, but were let down by a gloomy month, with below-average temperatures, in fact. Not surprisingly, the morale of the winegrowers was well under par.
…But that was when summer set in, with a superb and hot September that made up for the previous five weeks. The sunshine continued into October, which allowed the Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot to reach perfect ripeness, in perfect condition.
The harvest was relatively late for the reds, starting around 20th September (in Pomerol) and continuing until the end of October in the Médoc. Yields are more or less average – much higher than in 2013 and comparable to 2012, though following two hail storms in the Médoc, there are some exceptions to this – with an estimated 5.3 million hectolitres for the whole of the Gironde. There was also, here and there, damage from oïdium, mildew and poor fruit set, above all in the spring.
The white wines profited fully from the vintage conditions, with cool nights throughout the summer. 2014 produced good fruity Sémillon, lively and elegant Sauvignon, and aromatic Muscadelle. It was consequently a very good year for both dry and sweet whites. The latter profited in particular from the slow ripening and the late summer. They show great purity and a subtle balance between very marked intensity and fine, elegant sweetness. . . .
2014
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The red wines show very good texture and promising balance. They are already showing attractive fruit character, an even tannic structure and great aromatic potential. Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot seem to have been the winners in this vintage, on condition that growers showed patience and did the work necessary to keep the vineyard in good health, with leaf removal for example. From the best terroirs of the Graves, the first tastings show that the Cabernets are very good, with the potential to make this a great vintage. Several producers in the Médoc have made similar observations.
In conclusion, Bordeaux wines from the 2014 vintage will be good to very good, very classic in profile and with good potential for ageing, and with the necessary aromatic complexity and balance to make this the best vintage in the Gironde since 2010.
T H E 2 0 1 4 V I N T A G E I N B O R D E A U X2014
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C H Â T E A U C A S T E R ACru Bourgeois, Haut-MédocJean-Pierre Darmuzey - Estate Director
A PLEASANT SURPRISE
After the dreadful year we had been through in 2013, there were high hopes for the
2014 vintage. Indeed, it started rather well, with particularly good weather conditions
in spring. That, sadly, was before the terrible events of Whitsun weekend when, on
Sunday night and into Monday morning (8th and 9th June), hail devastated 1,500 ha in
the Médoc appellation. The fact that our vineyard is divided into three parts helped us
to avoid the worst, but all the same 25ha out of our 65ha were completely stripped. We
already knew that nearly 40% of the harvest had been knocked to the ground. We were
not in the best of spirits.
SUMMER IN SEPTEMBER
The following months didn’t do much to lift our mood: July was quite cool and August rather
gloomy. The vineyard held up quite well, despite incessant attacks from leafhoppers but
experience from previous years led us to think that we would be facing a difficult vintage.
Then came the “absolutely fabulous” month of September, with exceptional sunshine
and temperatures verging on 30°C. There wasn’t an Indian on the horizon, but summer
had definitely arrived! This kind of weather meant perfect ripening conditions. The cool
nights gave balance and a return to normal Médoc conditions. Together, all this benefited
the Merlot and Cabernet, which produced magnificent and concentrated fruit.
A VINTAGE UNLIKE ANY OTHER
When a new vintage comes along, we inevitably try and find comparisons with previous
ones. In my view, however, 2014, though still a typically Médoc one in style, is unique!
After several months in barrel, it is easier to see its generosity, freshness and power, with
tannins that will put their stamp on its personality. Everything suggests that this vintage
will be among the
March 2015
2014
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C H Â T E A U T A L B O TGrand Cru Classé en 1855, Saint-JulienChristian Hostein - Vineyard manager
The clouds are low, the temperature reaches 7°C at best in the afternoon and a draught is creeping into the offices, which are in throes of major building work. In short, normal weather for the time of year and, frankly, after the year we have just had, it is reassuringly normal. 2014 was far from ordinary. Not least, for the number of months: it was a year of 13 months and 13 full moons. September counted for double and will remain in the memories of winegrowers: not a drop of water and vines that had started to ripen…well, just stopped growing.
We struggled hard from May to mid-August to protect the canopy from cryptogamic parasite-induced disease – we had to do two extra copper treatments for this reason. Mildew was rampant this year and powdery mildew took advantage of the lack of sun at the height of the summer.
The grapes, however, were more in line with our expectations than in 2013 and consequently came on well in September. In fact, when I had to repeat the same sampling several times as the results seemed so optimistic! But no, the plant material was in good condition, temperatures were not excessive (cool nights and pleasant afternoons for us as well as for our vineyard). The sugars levels were rising and there were rich tannins, which promised great things.
Once in tank, the acidity of the musts meant there was excellent balance with the tannins and anthocyanins and after malolactic fermentation, the profile of the wine began to appear. We still have to determine the quality of our press wines that hold the blend together, but I think that certain tanks are already as good as our 2010, which remains a benchmark for Talbot.
Rainfall:January: 178 mm - February: 133 mm - March: 58.5 mm - April: 55.5 mm
May: 97.5 mm - June: 74.5 mm - July: 45 mm - August: 63 mm (from 1st to 10th: 26 mm ; from 11th to 2th: 31 mm ; from 21st to 31st: 6 mm) - September: 0 mm
October: 68 mm (from 1st to 10th: 48 mm ; from 11th to 20th: 20 mm) - November: 166 mm To 2nd December 2014 939 mm
2014
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Vineyard Cycle and ViticultureEnd of pruning: 24th March 1st spraying: 30th April1st tying up of the Merlot: 16th May1st Merlot flowers. Storms - heavy rain - strong winds: 21st MayMid-flowering for the Merlot: 3rd JuneFull flowering of the Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Sulphur dusting: 10th June Start of leaf removal throughout the vineyard, according to zones: 20th JunePhilippine and Romain’s wedding. Fabulous weather: 21st June1st véraison. Scorching from strong heat (37°C) on some south-west facing plants: 17th JulyVéraison for the Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon: 29th JulyHarvest of white varieties. Very good weather (30°C). Splendid juice: 10th, 11th and 12th SeptemberRed harvest. Grape reception trial on 1 Merlot plant: 18th September Picking starts for the young Merlot with 2 teams of pickers: 22nd September, Picking across the plots, to finish all the Merlot: 23rd, 24th and 25th September800 crates, exactly, of magnificent, ripe and very healthy Merlot: 2nd October2 teams of pickers mobilised to pick the ripe Cabernet Sauvignon for a week. Picking finished: 13th OctoberPruning started. The page has turned. A new vintage is in the making: 1st December
2 December 2014
2014. . .
C H Â T E A U T A L B O T
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One vintage follows another, but they are not always similar. Some, for different reasons, leave a lasting impression in the memory of a winegrower.
The weather conditions, of course, are never the same. The impartiality of the weather and the not always implacable logic of the passing seasons, make our work on the land and in the vineyard an eternal cycle. Our wine is reborn each year in its own environment which will fix its identity in all phases of its development until it reaches our glasses.
It all started with the cool and wet months of July and August, with persistent rain that began to give us doubts. After a long véraison, several questions cropped up: will the bunches be able to stand up to it? When will we pick? How can we make the most of this vintage? Will we have satisfactory yields?
Luckily the sunshine had not disappeared, it had just slipped, slowly but surely, to the beginning of autumn, thus shifting the optimum ripeness of the bunches to September and October. A maturity that was then balanced and very even, and a great relief for the whole team.
The harvest at Paveil was one of the longest we have had in a long time.
On 1 October we started the Merlot, finishing on 7 October.
Then we picked the Cabernet Sauvignon from 14 to 22 October.
It was marvellous to see the quality of the grapes and the powerful and immediate colour, to the extent that it was impossible to make a rosé.
Our consultants and friends, Stéphane Derenoncourt and Simon Blanchard, were happy with the good quality of the grapes and the possibilities that we had in terms of vinification. Long macerations of 28 days with light and frequent pumping over. Very rapid malolactic and then filling the wine into barrels allowed us to leave for Christmas in a relaxed state of mind.
C H Â T E A U P A V E I L D E L U Z ECru Bourgeois - MédocFrédéric de Luze - Owner
2014
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After all the tastings we have done, Château Paveil de Luze 2014 already shows a splendid level of quality, with the typical Margaux expression that we look for, and we are even starting to compare it with another of our very successful vintages, the prestigious 2010.
Of course it is too soon to judge, but here are out first tasting impressions from early January: “Immediately on the nose, the wine shows a very great aromatic intensity as well as an aromatic complexity typical of the great vintages that we call “classics”.“The first floral notes of violet and wilted rose quickly give way to the powerful aroma of wild brambles. “On the palate, the attack is both silky and clean, then it evolves to a tight tannic structure, with soft aromas of blackberry and Bourbon vanilla.“The freshness of this vintage gives a wine with a finish that draws on the elegant tannins of ripe Cabernet Sauvignon and the noble aromas of cedar and blackcurrant.”
Since there is also a human context behind each wine, my 11th vintage will remain in my memory as a long and fine human and professional adventure which helped me to keep going personally and which gave me renewed energy to continue for many years to harvest and glorify the land of our ancestors and to give our wines their place in history.
22 January 2015
2014. . .
C H Â T E A U P A V E I L D E L U Z E
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C H Â T E A U M A R Q U I S D E T E R M ECrus Classé en 1855 - MargauxLudovic David - Director
The 2014 vintage – powerful, elegant and saved by an Indian summer!
After a difficult vintage in 2013, which required rigorous selection and drastic vinification measures, 2014 seemed like a much simpler year. That said, it wasn’t always easy and it did raise our stress levels, reminding us that Nature decides what kind of grapes we harvest, not us.
The exceptional autumn weather certainly played a role, but so did the investment and restructuring that has taken place over the 5 last years, and which culminated this vintage with the technical overhaul of the cellar. The wide variety of tanks that now enable us to select batches, as well as giving us a choice of material for fermentation (concrete, stainless-steel, oak), have not only improved our working methods, but are increasing the aromatic intensity and complexity of our wines, as well as the quality and silkiness of the tannins.
The winter of 2013 to 2014 was very mild and wet (430 mm of rainfall in 3 months). The absence of an anticyclone for 70 days caused persistent rainfall and made for tiresome vineyard work: penetrating humidity and difficulties in getting around the plots.
At the beginning of the year, above average temperatures triggered relatively early budburst (around 10th March). By 20th March the vines were in leaf across the vineyards. The canopy grew quickly and the vines got a 15-day start on the normal cycle. The mild temperatures continued up to mid-May when the flower buds became visible. The first flowers appeared from 19th May, in cool and damp conditions, and once again the rain set in, causing poor fruit set in the Merlot and only average quality flowering. Thankfully, the later parcels, in particular the Cabernet Sauvignon, benefited from sunshine.
Leaf removal started earlier than usual (from 19th June), so that the bunches could get the maximum sunshine as soon as possible. July brought low temperatures and little sunshine. At the end of the month, we were pinning our hopes on a good August to help the véraison and to bring the grapes into balance. It didn’t happen. Ripening slowed down and there was lots of rain and little sunshine. We needed a second summer to turn the situation around!
2014
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11
At the beginning of September we were worrying. People were thinking back to 2013, and some were already talking about an ‘off vintage’. But thanks to the magic of the terroir and the specific location between Bordeaux and the Atlantic Ocean, an anticyclone set in and summer came back, lasting until the end of October. It was a life-saving Indian summer, the kind we love in the Gironde, hot and dry, bringing on the essential level of vine stress in the plants which were still growing. Perfect conditions which allowed the grapes to reach full maturity.
We started hand-picking the Merlot on 23rd September, finishing on 8th October, taking time and care to select the plots according to the exact level of ripeness we wanted. Being able to work with precision in such calm conditions brought back memories of 2010! A team of 70 tanned pickers (frankly suffering in the heat) joined us for this second summer.
The Cabernet Sauvignon vintage started on 3rd October in the sun and finished on 17th October with some scattered showers. The Petit Verdot was brought in on 13th October.After fermentation in tanks of different sizes and materials (oak, concrete, stainless-steel), we prolonged the phase of gentle maceration to get the velvety tannins we were looking for, and 30 to 42 days on skins has brought delicacy to the 2014.
The keyword of this vintage will certainly be elegance: aromas that were protected by the low temperatures in August, the silky tannins provided by the slow ripening of the grapes in September and October and an alcohol/acid balance that is the special character of the great gravel soils of Margaux, are all elements that characterise this vintage and give it its power.
2014 brought together technical skill and experience, terroir, weather conditions, plus a renovated cellar. Without any doubt, the wines from this vintage will figure among the great vintages of Château Marquis de Terme, for the great pleasure of wine lovers.
February 2014
2014C H Â T E A U M A R Q U I S D E T E R M E. . .
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Vineyard cycle in 2014
The cycle was marked by very variable weather from January to June, alternating
between periods of heavy rain and relative drought. Overall temperatures in winter and
spring were slightly above average.
Flowering took place in good conditions, thankfully before a summer – July and August,
in particular – that was frequently rainy and lacking in sunshine.
Despite this, the vines showed good growth and canopy management techniques such
as “surgical” leaf removal kept them in good condition helped them develop.
From 1st September, summer came! Pleasant, mild days and cool nights provided ideal
conditions for a perfect harvest right up to the end of October.
2014: Successes and Challenges
Successes: The grapes were picked at ideal ripeness. Some superb batches that
were bursting with flavour are already showing silky tannins, good structure and a very
seductive aromatic profile (fresh red fruit and intensity).
Challenges: A year that required extremely focused and reactive vineyard management
at every stage… ploughing, tying-up, shoot removal, leaf removal… and constant
monitoring of the canopy and then the budding fruit.
The Vintage
In autumn, after the stress (including water stress), came the reward!
Picking took place over 15 days from 30th September to 21st October. It was a fast-
paced vintage but interrupted by spells where we had to sit it out and wait for nature to
work away. There were great days and frustrating days.
The rhythm was determined by very precise monitoring of the ripeness and condition of
the crop, and enabled us to harvest the best possible fruit from each variety and each
plot.
CHÂTEAU BELLE-VUE ET CHÂTEAU DE GIRONVILLECrus Bourgeois, Haut-MédocCHÂTEAU BOLAIREBordeaux SupérieurJean-Michel Marle - Directeur d’Exploitation
2014
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The style of 2014
For our three wines, 2104 is a vintage which combines very good structure with an
immediately seductive aromatic profile, silky and delicious tannins, deep colour, and a
lovely expression of the Petit Verdot in both our Haut-Médoc wines Ch. Belle-Vue and
Gironville and in Ch. Bolaire our Bordeaux Supérieur.
Reminiscent of?
Somewhere between the opulence of the 2009 and the classic lines of Bordeaux 2010.
December 2014
2014CHÂTEAU BELLE-VUE ET CHÂTEAU DE GIRONVILLECHÂTEAU BOLAIRE
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C H Â T E A U C A N T E M E R L ECrus Classé en 1855 - Haut-MédocC H Â T E A U G R A N D C O R B I NSaint-Emilion Grand Cru ClasséPhilippe Dambrine - Director
The 2014 vintage will long be remembered for the exceptional weather that we had at
the end of summer. And if we had to work hard to get the best fruit this year, our efforts
were modest in comparison to what Nature gave us. Let’s gloss over the difficult period
that went before, and concentrate on the amazing late summer and early autumn that
decided everything!
To say that we deliberately waited for the first autumn frosts to start the vintage would
be going a bit far but it is true to say that we were able to move about the dates of the
harvest. In part, this was thanks to the very advanced weather forecasting software we
have today but mostly because of the long period we had: while normally we have a
fortnight, picking in 2014 was spread out over almost a month – exactly in line with the
optimum ripeness of each variety,
Some would say that Cabernet Sauvignon from the Left Bank is the winner of the vintage,
because the ripeness went beyond our wildest expectations. This is not too far from
the truth and certainly the stars are shining above some major Médoc properties. That
said, the Merlot and Cabernet Franc were also magnificent on both banks, despite a
succession of light storms just before the Right-Bank vintage.
In general the wines are extremely enticing, full, rich and dense but without being
exaggerated. The aromas are subtle and will gain further in complexity with ageing. The
wines are long and balanced on the finish.
February 2015
2014
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C H Â T E A U S É N É J A CCru Bourgeois Haut-MédocDamien Hostein – Technical Director
At last, the 2014 vintage is blended and in barrel in the calm of the cellar.Given the weather conditions over the past year, we have been eagerly awaiting this moment.
It started with the risk of frost the necessity to use the wind machines twice at the end of March. With hindsight, it seemed worse than it really was but still…
After a very wet winter (rainfall in January: 204 mm, February: 166 mm and March: 93 mm), budburst started in the first week of spring. It promised to be a good harvest, especially for the Merlot, with good, full bunches. But then spring and summer were very wet (340 mm between April and August!), and we had to work hard in the vineyard to fight disease and keep the soil clean.
September came and so did the good weather. We then knew that all the hard work, especially the green harvesting, leaf removal, thinning out etc, had really paid off. The vines benefited from these last two months of September and October, when the rain stopped and they were able to complete their maturation cycle. In the end we had the ripe, healthy fruit we wanted.
We picked the young Merlot from 1st to 3rd October. On 6th October we harvested the Cabernet Franc, which was superb. We finished the older Merlots on 8th October. Picking re-started on 13th October for the Cabernet Sauvignon, finishing on 21st October. The Petit Verdot was brought in on 16th October.
The result is an opulent, deeply coloured and structured vintage, which I believe, over time, will prove to be a very well-respected one.
28 January 2015
2014
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C H Â T E A U D E M A L L E R E TCru Bourgeois Haut-MédocPaul Bordes - Gérant
2014, pour le château de Malleret et l’équipe que nous formons (Paul Bordes - Gérant,
Cyril Nidalini – Maître de chai, Jena-Christophe Vigneaud – Chef d’equipe vigne) en
charge de la remise en état du vignoble et de la vinification, ce millésime est d’une
grande importance.
Après une renaissance qualitative qui commence avec le millésime 2009 (création
du 2ème vin), nous avons décidé d’essayer de monter d’un étage en demandant à
Stéphane Derenoncourt et son équipe de venir nous aider de leurs conseils éclairés
pour ce millésime 2014 et ceux à venir.
Année compliquée : après des conditions climatiques maussades en juillet et en août,
nous sommes sauvés par le gong sur la dernière ligne droite, beau mois de septembre
suivi d’un « Indian Summer « en octobre. Cela nous permet de vendanger avec sérénité
sur un mois chaque parcelle à maturité optimale, du 29 septembre au 21 octobre
(coupures comprises). Ces conditions sont exceptionnelles !
2014, millésime du vigneron : ébourgeonnage des contre-boutons, effeuillages du
levant début Juillet, du couchant début Septembre, vendanges vertes et vendanges
manuelles sur tout le vignoble de Malleret et nos 4 ha de Margaux (le M).
Nous sommes très heureux du résultat et attendons avec confiance les dégustations
d’avril.
20 janvier 2015
2014
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C H Â T E A U C A R B O N N I E U XCru Classé de GravesEric et Philibert Perrin - Owners
From doubt to certainty . . .
After the temperatures first started to rise, growth was rapidly and between the spring showers, flowering took place evenly for all the varieties. There was some poor fruit set for the Merlot, and low setting on the older white vines, no doubt a consequence of the weather in 2013.
Cold, wet weather prevailed throughout July and August and caused concern, even though the grapes remained perfect healthy, except for a few outbreaks of rot in certain parcels of white varieties.
Luckily, conditions from the end of August through to early autumn were beyond our wildest dreams. The vintage started on 3rd September for the Sauvignon Blanc, with some selection needed in the vineyard in some plots. We finished picking the Sémillon on 19th September.
For the red vintage, the absolutely perfect health of all the varieties enabled us to pickplot by plot and get optimum ripeness. The Merlot harvest started on 24th September and the last Cabernets were picked on 15th October, with just a few interruptions to perfect the quality of the grapes.
Technical innovations for the 2014 vintage:• Complete transformation of the reception tanks • Use of vibrating skips with a double bottom to put the grapes gently into the tanks.• Removal of the reception bins• 2 New presses using inert gas (latest generation) to limit the risk of oxidation and the use of sulphur as much as possible
Special characteristics of the vintage:Early flowering and very slow ripening. The cool summer, which preserved all the aromas and impeccable quality of the vintage, means we confidently predict this will be a high-flying vintage.
2014
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C H Â T E A U C A R B O N N I E U X
A word from Philibert Perrin, owner:The climatic contrast, I would almost say inversion, between summer and autumn in 2014 remains unique in the annals of Bordeaux. It was a heartening year for winegrowers. The aromatic purity of the whites, the ripeness and structure of the reds are truly exciting. From the first blending tastings, we have been surprised by the great consistency between different batches. Our only disappointment this year was the yield for the white varieties, well below average, but luckily of great quality.
March 2015
2014. . .
Château Carbonnieux White Chateau Carbonnieux Red
Viticultural methodsPlot management with integrated farming Plot management with integrated farming
Harvest datesSauvignon Blanc from 3/09 to 17/09
Sémillon from 12/09 to 19/09Merlot from 24/09/2014 to 01/10/2014Cabernet Sauvignon from 2/10/14 to 15/10/14 Cabernet Franc on 7/10/14 and Petit Verdot on 2/10/14
Hand picking with several passes through the vineyard - Double berry selection
Hand picking - Triple berry selection
Total number of batches25 23
Light skin contact if needed
Yield34 hl/ha 45hl/ha
%Alc : 12.8 - pH : 3.25 - AT : 5.2 % Alc : 13.5 - pH : 3.58 - AT : 3.8
Fermentationin barrel, for an average of 8 days in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks
Date of fillingfrom 10/09/14 to 24/09/14 from 27/11/14 to 15/01/15
AgeingNew oak 20%,
3 different volumes (225 litre, 400 litre, 30hl)35% new oak (Bordeaux barrels)
Blend75% Sauvignon, 25% Sémillon 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Petit
Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc
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C H Â T E A U F O N P L É G A D ESaint-Emilion Grand Cru ClasséEloi Jacob – Director
Vine Cycle Growth started early. Spring was wet and warm, favouring development and summer started with a hot month of July, which prompted an early start to véraison. A cool and damp August then slowed development down but September’s hot, sunny weather compensated for the delays. Lows of 2014A very wet spring and August led to the development of disease (mildew and botrytis).Highs of 2014Great weather in July and September naturally contained the development of these cryptogramic diseases. Dates Picking spread out over 2 weeks, from 30th September for the young Merlot through to 8th October. Main Characteristics of the Year . . .-Wide temperature variations from one month to another led to constant changes in the way we managed the vineyard.-Early budburst, growth of vegetation and flowering, which were later slowed down by a cooler than normal summer.- Meticulous leaf removal and green harvesting to achieve optimum ripeness.-Hot and summery weather in September meant harvesting was at the usual time for Bordeaux, proving the importance of climate at the end of the season. In fact, the joy and the challenge of being a winegrower is adapting vineyard management to counteract the caprices of the weather. We only intervene to obtain a balanced wine that reflects the quality and ‘typicity’ of our terroir. At Château Fonplégade and Château L’Enclos, our organic viticulture enabled us to obtain phenolic maturity more rapidly, without reaching excessive alcohol levels.
Characteristics of the wines A perfect balance between alcohol/acidity/phenolic power With which other vintages would you compare the 2014?2012 for its fruity character and 2010 for its balance and power 30 January 2015
2014
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C H Â T E A U D E P R E S S A CSaint-Emilion Grand Cru ClasséJean-François Quenin - Owner
2014 was an unusual sort of vintage…
Flowering after a cool May, gave rise to fears that it would be a repeat of 2013 but it took
place quickly and in very good conditions, essential for even ripening of the grapes at
the time of picking.
July was average, a little cool and damp.
August was very mediocre, with insufficient heat and excessive rainfall. By the end of
the month, spirits were low.
September and October were extraordinary, with average temperatures more than 2
degrees above the 30-year average. A real Indian summer. The thermometer reached
36°! It made up for the shortfall in August.
The harvest took place in excellent conditions. We were able to wait for optimum ripeness
and our vines, which are quite young, gave satisfactory yields.
Fermentation varied from one tank to another, some were “slow”, but in the end this had
no adverse effects.
The wines are deeply coloured, rich and fruity, with ripe and silky tannins: probably a
great vintage for Pressac!
January 2015
2014
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C H Â T E A U C H A U V I NSaint-Emilion Grand Cru ClasséSylvie Cazes - Owner
CHATEAU CHAUVIN 2014 : A NEW PAGE IS TURNED
Together with my children, we took over the beautiful property of Chauvin early May.
Philippe Moureau, previously the technical director of Château de Pez and Château
Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, quickly joined the team and is in charge of
the technical management at the estate. Jean-Philippe Fort and Michel Rolland continue
to guide us throughout the vintage.
Spring was a cool start in the vineyard and slowed down the growth of the wine and
flowering was spread out until early June, leading to some poor fruit set here and there.
As from the first weeks of May, Philippe Moureau and his team carried out a study of the
soil and sub-soil of the property to identify the soil types and define the level of clay in
each area. Right at this moment and during all of the summer, working of the soil under
the vines was put back in place so as to allow the roots to dig deeper into the clay, and
to make the vines less sensitive to climatic variations, particularly during wet periods.
During the first days of summer, mild temperatures returned, the growth of the vine was
swift and the bunch closure stage was reached in the first days of July. The first signs
of véraison were observed on 20 July but August, mostly cold and damp, slowed down
the ripening of the grapes.
The green harvesting, leaf removal and thinning out are performed with great precision.
The height of the canopy has been significantly increased so as to better absorb the
water from the soil and to allow optimum ripening of the grapes.
The very hot and dry weather in September and October allowed a calm wait for the
grapes to ripen and for harvesting in excellent conditions.
Picking started on 29 September and finished on 10 October. The grapes were very fine
and each plot could be picked at its optimum ripeness. This hot weather at the end of
2014
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22
C H Â T E A U C H A U V I N
the season did however have a negative impact on yields, the heat having concentrated
the grapes and therefore reduced the weight of the berries.
Perforated crates of 36 litres (or 15 kg of grapes) were used for the first time, to protect
the bunches from being squashed and optimise plot selection, to get a precise weight
of the harvest for each plot and to be able to drain grapes covered with morning dew.
A new state-of-the-art destemmer ensured perfect separation of the berries and the
stems. Double sorting at grape reception (before and after destemming) was introduced
so that only perfect berries were retained.
With such summery temperatures, often close to 30°C, we used a refrigerated container
to cool the grapes so as to avoid over-rapid fermentation. Then the harvest was
macerated in tank for several days before starting the alcoholic fermentation (cold
soaking maceration).
The extraction of anthocyanins and tannins was therefore softer and slower, resulting in
wines that are more elegant while still being concentrated.
Vinification took place under very good conditions, with the grapes showing perfect
balance (sufficient acidity, pH of 3.7 and reasonable alcohol degrees of around 13.5%).
This allowed for soft and slow extraction of the grapes (colour and tannins in particular).
The good ripeness enabled us to make fruity wines without any green character, with
notes of fresh and ripe fruit. It was possible to keep the grapes on skins long enough to
achieve balance in each tank.
Part of the harvest was put in new barrels as from November for the malolactic fermentation,
making the wine supple and round. As from the month of December, ageing on lees took
place for around two months so as to avoid excessive racking of the wines and thereby
preserving their fruit.
We use a total of 40% new barrels.
2014. . .
. . .
23
C H Â T E A U C H A U V I N
For the 2014 vintage, the blend was made with 70% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Franc and
8% Cabernet Sauvignon.
2014 : TASTING NOTES
The wines have a very deep ruby colour.
Red fruit on the nose, slightly spicy, with hints of tobacco and liquorice.
Fresh and powerful attack on the palate while remaining soft. The wine fills out the palate
without being astringent, the tannins are there but are not aggressive, and overall there
is good length. The wine is deep while remaining very elegant. The expression is that of
a great Merlot combining softness, density and charm.
Everything is in balance, with a long and finely oaked finish. It can also be seen that the
new oak integrates perfectly, which is a good sign as to the intrinsic quality of the wine.
2014 : THE NEW IDENTITY
By becoming owner of Château Chauvin, Sylvie Cazes wanted to bring a new momentum,
both technically and commercially. In order to take full ownership of this property and to
turn thoughts into actions, it became clear that a new visual identity should be adopted.
Beyond the change in graphics, the purpose of this identity is to reflect the values so
dear to Sylvie, her children and her teams.
ORIGINS OF THE LABEL
While searching through the archives of the property, a Château Chauvin label from
1929 was discovered. This immediately appealed to Sylvie, who decided to use it as the
basis for the creation of the new label.
After that, the graphic research went back to the meaning of the word “chauvin”. To be
“chauvin” means to be proud of your land, to love your land.
. . .
. . .
2014
24
C H Â T E A U C H A U V I N
So the engraving that figures frequently in mythology of Cupid straddling a lion was
added to the label dating from 1929:
— The lion is the emblem of Saint-Émilion, and figures on its coat of arms.
— Cupid, son of Venus, is the god of Love in Roman mythology, and his symbols are
a bow and arrow. Cupid is often represented driving chariots or on lions, panthers or
dolphins, to show that no creature can escape the power of Love.
As from the 2014 vintage, the label showing Cupid straddling a lion represents the
attachment of Château Chauvin to the land of Saint-Emilion.
Cupid also personifies for Sylvie all that is unconditional and selfless, just like the work
in the vineyard.
March 2015
. . .
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25
C H Â T E A U R O U G E TPomerol
Edouard Labruyère - Owner
2014 presented all sorts of challenges. The previous year had rightly been given the cold shoulder by certain tasters and the difficult weather conditions had caused the vines to suffer. At Rouget, as at scores of other properties, we were intent on making something great in 2014… if Nature would allow us.
The heavy rainfall at the beginning of summer meant that the threat of disease was just as intense as in 2013 but the wind that blew almost daily throughout June, allowed the vegetation to dry out. Flowering, a crucial moment for us, was therefore quite even overall and we were optimistic about the harvest’s potential.
Summer was more chaotic, but wonderful weather set in from 26th August and stayed with us until the end of the vintage. The temperature variations – cold mornings (7°C) and hot afternoons (26°C) – enabled the tannins in the skins and pips to ripen well, and the Indian summer favoured concentration and consistency in the grapes – essential factors for a good vintage.
Thanks to the excellent condition of the crop, we were able to start picking on 2nd October and finished on 14th October. This relatively long period – given the 18-hectare size of the property – was the result of our new winemaking policy. We have been increasingly aware that getting the best from our terroirs needs a tailor-made approach to harvesting and vinification. To achieve this, we have fine-tuned picking: no longer simply plot by plot, but according to the optimum degree of ripeness of the berries within each plot. This requires very meticulous work by the pickers, even to the extent of going through the same plot several times. After sorting (by machine and then by hand this year) most of the Rouget grapes went directly into barrel, so that we had well-integrated oak from the start of vinification. The rest of the grapes went into our small conical oak vats.
Our initial tastings, during the first days of cold-soaking (necessary for the extraction of the finest tannins) reassured us that we had a vintage of great potential. The elegance and silkiness of the tannins, combined with extraction that was good without being excessive, meant we only had to use the most delicate of extraction techniques. The grapes had sufficient power and velvety character and there was no point in trying to force matters during the alcoholic fermentation.
2014
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26
C H Â T E A U R O U G E T
After fermentation, the wines went into barrel – 30% new – so that the malolactic fermentation could proceed naturally and as slowly as possible. With 13.5 degrees of alcohol, countered by good acidity, the wines have a balance that we have not seen for a long time.
As the wines begin their ageing, we know that we have a great vintage in our cellars, and the yield of 32hl/ha makes it even more desirable!
January 2015
2014. . .
. . .
27
T H E 2 0 1 4 V I N TAG E I N S AU T E RN E S & BARSAC
A superb vintage right across Sauternes that has produced lively, pure, well-defined
wines with power and exceptional balance.
There was an upbeat mood at Château Coutet on Tuesday, February 17th, when the owners and technical directors of the Conseil des Crus de Sauternes et Barsac (CCSB) met for the first internal tasting of the 2014 vintage.
The reason for their satisfaction: a range of wines of remarkably even quality throughout the AOC, with stunning freshness and finesse, combining power and elegance.
Chateaux owners had particular praise for the work of their vineyard teams, who had certainly not had an easy ride in 2014. Most years bring challenges for winegrowers but 2014 was particularly complicated, requiring fastidious and meticulous vineyard management to cope with the unpredictable weather that beleaguered Bordeaux all year long. More than ever, the making of these wines verge on haute-couture handicraft.
So what did growers have to contend with?
Spring, as they say, sprung, from nowhere, in March, when temperatures climbed to unseasonal highs of 20oC – 21oC. April, too, was warm and dry and then came May – mainly cold and mainly damp. Fortunately, June was a warm month and flowering was even across the region: thanks to the very mild spring, the vines were a full two weeks in advance of the normal cycle
July brought frequent spells of light rain and August, though less rainy, was a chilly, cloudy and frustrating month.
Fine weather did finally return at the end of August but, as so often, it was all too much, too soon. September saw vineyards suffering serious drought conditions that delayed the onset of Botrytis.Growers were able to pick a few botrytised berries in localised, mini- sortings or tries but it was arduous, finicky and costly work.
2014
. . .
28
T H E 2 0 1 4 V I N TAG E I N S AU T E RN E S & BARSAC
It wasn’t until the rain finally came on October 9th that the botrytis really spread. From then on the region basked in an indian summer with warm days but very cool nights.
Most growers brought in the majority of what was by now a very fine harvest after October 15th, in two or three tries.
If the vintage had its happy ending, yields, once again, were tiny (around 12 hl/ha). The damage done by the drosophila-type flies (also known as fruit or wine flies) and the drastic sorting that had to be done to remove the damaged grapes, further reduced volumes.
2014 will be a rare vintage in every sense of the word and also an intriguing one.
The cool start to the year and the long, slow ripening-period has given the wines liveliness and vitality, while harvesting in two phases produced complementary styles that have come together beautifully in the final blends.
But behind the immediate charm of the 2014s, beyond their vivacity and flamboyancy, lie an underlying power, complexity and elegance that will allow them to age for decades to come… and bring smiles of satisfaction to the people who enjoy them as to those who made them.
2014. . .
29
CHÂ T E AU GU I R AUDGrand Cru Classé - SauternesXavier PLanty - Director
2014: the vintage we were hoping for
Mild temperatures at the start of the year led to early flowering, but there then followed
a very cold spring and summer. At the end of August, brilliant sunshine marked the
start of a magnificent Indian summer and truly saved the vintage. After that, harvesting
conditions were ideal, with 4 selective pickings or tries through the vineyard from 17th
September to 29th October. All that was missing were the volumes: we had to make do
with half a crop – around 5,000 cases.
2014 is our 4th certified organic vintage at the property and bears all the hallmarks of
classic Château Guiraud: fresh, taut, and balanced, with very pure aromas.
VINTAGE DIARY
28 August: An exciting end to the holidays
After three weeks away, two of which without any contact with the château, what a
great pleasure to visit the vineyards this morning with our vineyard manager, Luc. It was
exciting, very exciting!
Although we had been ten days ahead at flowering, I had thought that the cold weather
in August might have slowed us down. But no… we will be able to pick the dry white at
the normal time. It is proving to quite a long ripening period with cool nights and this is
the third day of non-stop sunshine.
Depending on the weather, of course, this is the final push. I think we’ll start picking our
G de Château Guiraud on Thursday 4th or Monday 8th September. Watch this space…
22 September: Who can complain?
There surely cannot be any pessimists out there to call this vintage into question?
2014
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30
CHÂ T E AU GU I R AUD
Everything is as it should be. I am talking, this morning, about the dry wines, which
have been harvested at the peak of ripeness, in superb weather conditions – too hot
according to some, but so much the better given this year has been quite cool! There is
fruit, power, acidity and the fermentations are clean and progressing well.
As for our Sauternes, there was thick fog yesterday morning, lots of dew this morning, 8
millimetres of rain last week and warm nights – perfect for botrytis.
We are finishing the first trie today in perfect conditions. This is our clean-up operation
and we rejected a few bunches and the odd grape damaged by birds or the tractors.
So…everything is set. The weather forecast is good. All very exciting.
29 October: A sublime end to the vintage!
The third trie promises to be exceptional. After a break of several days for our pickers,
the Sauternes microclimate is working its magic. We have everything we need for
botrytised grapes: lots of fog in the morning, followed by high temperatures during the
day, enhanced by a good east, south-easterly wind.
The grapes we have already picked had reached their ideal potential with superb and
rapid development of noble rot. This is Grand Vin week!
Conditions are perfect and we will finish this harvest on a high note. We are looking
at a promising, quality vintage… and we are still enjoying the bonus of a warm sunny
autumn.
19 November: Tasting in barrel
Lemon, mint, lychee peel, exotic fruit, black tea, freshness... The first impressions give
cause for celebration!
2014. . .
. . .
31
VINTAGE REPORT
Vintage dates for G de Château Guiraud:
2nd to 22nd September 2014
Vintage dates for our Sauternes
1st trie: 17th to 22nd September
2nd trie: 1st to 7th October
3rd trie: 15th to 24th October
4th trie: 27th to 29th October
End of vintage: 30th October
Production: circa 50,000 bottles
Yield: circa 9 hl/ha
January 2015
2014CHÂ T E AU GU I R AUD. . .
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V I GNOBL E S LORGE R I L Languedoc RoussillonMiren de Lorgeril - Owner
Vintage 2014: selection and vigilance are keys to an excellent vintage in the
Languedoc-Roussillon
Given the constraints of the weather in 2014, altitude, orientation and topography played
an even more important role than ever in shaping the vintage.
From east to west, all of our production areas had different conditions throughout the
year. From the Cabardés to Roussillon, from the Minervois to Saint Chinian and Faugères
du Moulin, we had to think hard and adapt our techniques.
As part of our strategy to ensure freshness in our wines, planting vines on the high
terroirs in the Languedoc Roussillon’s various appellations once again proved its worth
in 2014: as France’s national average temperatures from January to September 2014
reached 14.22°C (the second highest recorded temperature since 1946) our vineyards
enjoyed far cooler conditions, to the benefit of the wines.
Overview of the weather in 2014
• The beginning of the year was exceptionally mild, with temperatures among the three
hottest years of the last 20 years.
• From February to March, very distinctive rainfall patterns in the various production
zones:
- Average rainfall in the western Languedoc and the higher areas (Cabardés,
Minervois)
- Very little rain in the eastern Languedoc (50 to 60% water deficit).
- The usual lack of rain in the Roussillon, where the vines are more accustomed
dry conditions.
• Good flowering in all areas in June
• A wet, warm summer resulted in a threat from mildew, which required constant vigilance.
2014
. . .
33
• Fine, sunny, warm September and October. At the end of September, around the
equinox and 48 hours before the end of the harvest, there was an unusually heavy spell
of rain in the eastern Languedoc.
Climate and Harvest by Domaine
Western Languedoc: Château de Pennautier and Château de Caunettes, Domaine
Garille: AOC CABARDES
This area of Cabardés had regular rainfall throughout the year, with light showers. On
6th July there was a very violent hail storm around Carcassonne that affected 25% of our
vines and resulted in losses of 50 to 70%, mainly of Chardonnay. If volumes were down
the grapes had great freshness and good quality. Some superb wines were vinified, the
high altitude vineyards once again demonstrating their unique character.
Château Pennautier’s new Grand Vin winery, and the reception and sorting equipment,
provided excellent facilities to make the wines despite the unstable weather conditions.
Harvesting took place at the usual dates from 10th September for the Chardonnay, to
23rd October for the Cabernets.
A judicious balance between patience and vigilance was necessary for all the red
varieties, and selection was necessary to optimise quality.
Average yield (AOC and PGI and all wine types): 46 hl/ha.
The Syrah was more delicate this year, requiring intensive monitoring and sorting. The
Grenache was late but of excellent quality. Weather conditions were perfect for the
Bordeaux varieties – Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc – and to a large
extent they characterise this vintage. The rosé wines from these varieties, in both AOCs
2014V I GNOBL E S LORGE R I L
. . .
. . .
34
and PGIs, have light, pale pink colours. There is plenty of freshness and fruit. The wines
are now in the cellars and once the cold winter temperatures have clarified and refined
the wines, the perspective is promising. The outlook for our Grands Vins: Montpeyre,
Esprit de Pennautier and Collections d’Altitudes is excellent
Borie Blanche: AOC Minervois/AOC Minervois la Livinière
Vines in the appellation’s upper zones were spared any hail damage on 6th July, unlike
the lower Minervois vineyards that were hit very badly, some losing almost their entire
crop. The average yield of 49 hl/ha was unheard of for this vineyard.
The harvests began with the Syrah on 22nd September and ended on 10th October.
Despite the vagaries of the weather, we made some good decisions during the harvest
and got the most out of the grapes’ potential during vinification. Everything came together
in this small area to enable us to produce a very fine, well-balanced vintage.
This vineyard definitely comes top of the class at Vignobles Lorgeril in 2014. This year’s
conditions suited the Mourvèdre perfectly. It produced excellent quality wines, while
the Syrah offered a good balance between structure and finesse, with lots of spice and
fruit.
Eastern Languedoc: Château Moulin de Ciffre: AOC Saint Chinian/ AOC Faugères
A lack of water for nearly 7 months was the key feature. The effect was slightly reduced
by the altitude but resulted in smaller, lighter grapes. We maintained growth with leaf
fertilizers.
We did, however, achieve the required quality threshold for our premium wines. We took
a risk with regard to the heavy rain in the area towards the end of September, and waited
before picking, so that the vines could recover and absorb the water. Harvesting started
2014V I GNOBL E S LORGE R I L
. . .
. . .
35
on 20th September and ended on 5th October.
With its range of hills forming a crescent-shaped basin, the Moulin de Ciffre benefits from
an excellent microclimate. Here, the rain fortunately only amounted to 50 mm, whereas
just a few kilometres away there were cases of 200 or even 300 mm – more in Lamallou
les Bains and the surrounding areas. It was a risky decision for our last batches of
Mourvèdre and a plot of Grenache, but it enabled us to achieve quality grapes from
the schist in Faugères and the pebbles in Saint Chinian. The wines have remarkable
concentration of colour, complexity and rich density, typical of both appellations.
According to our consultants, the wines already stand out from production in the rest of
the region.
The average yield was very low at 22.8 hl/ha, 50% less than what the appellation allows.
Mas des Montagnes: AOC Côtes du Roussillon Villages
Usually very dry in the summer, these areas benefited from regular storms, resulting in a
well-developed bunches and fat, fruit-packed wines. Fortunately, the major downpours
that caused flooding arrived after the harvest.
February 2015
2014V I GNOBL E S LORGE R I L
. . .
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36
CHÂ T E AU D E CARAGU I L H E SCorbièresEtienne Besancenot - Technical Director
We try to gain a little more experience with each vintage at Caraguilhes,. Sometimes we
wonder what the point is, since every vintage is a surprise, with its own characteristics to
be interpreted and understood. In 2014 we realised the true value of experience: it helps
us to adapt! Essentially, a winegrower’s work consists of adapting to the circumstances
of each year– there are no golden rules.
With a rainy April after a very dry winter, 2014 began with excellent budburst. The vintage
seemed early, not unlike 2011... and so we prepared for something similarly intense.
Then came May. Again a little wetter than average and very cool. Growth fell behind
slightly and we lost a little of the advance that we had on 2013. Now it was looking more
like 2012...
June was hot and dry, especially around the solstice, and the Grenache flowered really
well. This was weather that we knew provided good conditions for the vines. At this
stage, 2014 had more in common with vintages such as 2009 or 2010, so we didn’t carry
out a very severe leaf removal for the Syrah, Mourvèdre or Grenache.
But then summer arrived. Sorry, did someone say, “summer?” July and August were
among the coldest for the last 50 years, at which point we wondered just where the
vintage was going because the development of the canopy and the evolution of the
grapes slowed down dramatically. Perhaps this was going to be an exceptionally late
vintage, like 2013?
We monitored ripening very carefully and we did, finally, remove leaves from some of the
Syrah and Grenache, and all Mourvèdre that needs maximum sunshine to ripen. Leaf-
stripping also served as a preventive measure against grey rot and sour rot. Slowly but
surely the ripening process took its course.
2014
. . .
37
The harvest began with the white varieties at the usual dates between 10th and 15th
September (except the Grenache Blanc that we always pick at the end of September or
early October), and the red grapes between 20th September and 10th October.
Last year we talked about the 2013 vintage being an instructive vintage that would help
us to understand subsequent years. And this proved to be the case. In 2014 we decided
to avoid taking the grapes to unnecessary levels of ripeness. Waiting too long serves no
purpose when the weather is too wet or too dry. But, you have to know when to wait...
and that is why we stopped harvesting for a week between 20th and 27th September –
the grapes were not quite ripe enough. Choosing the right time to pick the grapes is not
always a very scientific matter, it is often a feeling.
With this approach, we harvested fresh, deeply-coloured grapes in perfect condition.
With pure, ripe grapes, we «lose» between 1% and 1.5% alcohol in our wines and the
cool summer had ensured slow, stable ripening, which is what we hope for every year.
At the end of the day the Corbières and Boutenac wines have good intensity, with a
seductive freshness and amazing purity. 2014 proved to be a remarkable vintage and
has certainly added another vital block to the building of our knowledge and experience
at Caraguilhes.
13 February 2015
2014CHÂ T E AU D E CARAGU I L H E S
. . .
38
CHÂ T E AU L AUZAD E Côtes de ProvenceNicolas Perolini - Director of Operations
After a mild winter, spring arrived right on time. Flowering took place in ideal conditions,
with almost no coulure, which is unusual, especially with a sensitive variety like Grenache
that accounts for most of the property’s vines.
At this point, things were looking good, but one should never claim success too early
One threat that is always lurking is hail, which can strike at any time. We escaped the
worst of it in early July, when it began as an apparently harmless storm. Suddenly the
roof tiles started to reverberate and as we looked out anxiously the minutes seemed like
hours... Fortunately the fright was worse than the actual damage but it was a close call.
There were several rain storms over the summer, however, that were good for the vines,
especially those in late August that resulted in a significant increase in volumes.
We had made lots of improvements in the winery over the year so now all that was
missing were the grapes…
The first hoppers came in on 5th September and continued to arrive through to the
end of October. We were able to do more plot selection than ever in 2014, with 20
separate batches. This has all contributed to our knowledge of the property’s terroir and
has helped us refine our blends. And what blends! Consistently high quality across the
board and a definite success that we hope to repeat next year!
30 January 2015
2014
39
DOMA I N E D E L A B ÉGUDE BandolGuillaume Tari - Owner
The 2014 vintage was «different». So we thought until the beginning of September. The final weeks of the summer of 2014 didn’t really follow the usual pattern, and we had to improvise a harvesting strategy in mid-September, right in the middle of the phenolic ripening stage.
The grapes had ripened in a very uneven way, depending on variety and plot so a compromise was needed to balance what the Earth would offer us with what the Heavens were about to send us!
At La Bégude, if the grapes are not ripe enough when they are picked they cannot be used. This is especially true of the late-ripening Mourvèdre in our reds and our rosés. Nothing good could come of leaving the grapes on the vine, since autumn had already arrived, bringing the vine cycle to an end. The torrential rain that fell on 13th September burst the grapes that were already swollen with water, albeit from the much needed storm three days earlier. To obtain the best quality, we had to sort and select even more than usual. We finished picking on 12th October.
Recent harvests have all seemingly been one-offs, not part of a cycle, as was 2009, 2010 and 2011. The exceptional quality and richness of these three vintages, a little like the Trente Glorieuses (France’s 3–decade boom period, after the war, from 1945 to 1975), has earned them the epithet «solar cycle». These were powerful, full-bodied, vigorous wines with a common thread between them. Conversely, 2012, 2013, and now 2014, each have their own specific character. La Bégude’s 2014 rosé is light and lively, with a well-structured acidity and subtle aromas.
The acidity still has some ‘bite’ to it but tastings of the rosés from the vats were promising. It is difficult to judge a rosé with such a high proportion of Mourvèdre (70% to 80%) when it is being bottled as the process tends to shake-up and disturb the wine. Patience is required until it has stabilized, but, today, I believe we pulled it off.The forces of Nature remain unpredictable and uncontrollable and they dictate the role of the winegrower, which is to adapt, with humility and common sense, to random factors and produce the best possible wine.
February 2015
2014
40
T H E 2 0 1 4 V I N TAG E I N BOURGOGNEBureau Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bourgogne
The 2014 vintage in Bourgogne: All the makings of a great
This latest vintage is very promising indeed, with good yields, although it will not completely make up for low levels of stock. After another year of surprising weather, September lived up to to its reputation and played its part to the full in terms of ripening the grapes. The nascent wines are already promising good things, with lovely balance and intense colors. The final figures for volume won’t be known until early 2015. However, initial estimates mark a return to normal for many producers, although there were a few disparities in some areas.
In the springtime, the 2014 vintage looked like being an early one and the vines profited from the hot and dry weather, which indicated an abundant harvest and healthy vines. The harvest nonetheless was affected in some places by shatter, when certain flowers do not develop into fruit.
On 28 June, the Bourgogne winegrowing region was hit by violent hailstorms. The damage was very considerable in some places, particularly in certain appellations on the Côte de Beaune and around the village of Lugny. For some of these vineyards, this was the second or even third consecutive year they have suffered in this way, seeing their hopes of a good harvest destroyed in a matter of moments.
In summer, the sun appeared to have gone on vacation elsewhere, and the advance gained at the start of the cycle was soon lost. However, despite the wet and chilly weather, maturation began to gather pace at the end of August. The sun returned along with a northerly wind during the first few days of September, providing ideal conditions for optimum ripening and ensuring the grapes remain in good health.
The Bourgogne winegrowing region, like France’s other winegrowing regions, experienced a few pockets of sour rot. The plots of Pinot Noir where this occurred were subjected to strict sorting, both in the vines and in the winery. This occasional phenomenon was localized and was an exception in an otherwise very healthy year.
The harvest began in mid-September, in the sunshine and in good humor. The grapes brought into the wineries were ripe, healthy and aromatic. Fermentation went off with out a hitch, and the warm weather at the end of fall allowed the malolactic fermentations to being quickly.
Beaune, 6 November 2014
2014
41
MA I SON LOU I S J ADO TBourgogneFrédéric Barnier - Technical Director et Manuela Mouroux - Marketing Manager
Autumn and winter were particularly mild, with good levels of rainfall. Splendid weather
conditions in March led to early, vigorous vine growth.
During this early part of the vegetative cycle, it looked as if we were in for an early
harvest. The weather stayed dry and the few late frosts that arrived in March and April
caused little damage.
As spring turned into early summer, the weather conditions allowed us plenty of time to
carry out preliminary work on the soils and vines with great precision.
Intensely sunny weather during early June brought on flowering, which came as early
as bud break had taken place a few weeks before. Flowering came on fast, right across
Burgundy, from north to south. Chardonnay, which is very sensitive to dry, hot conditions,
suffered a little, and we saw evidence of poor fruit set in many of the bunches.
As the seasons turned towards summer, the weather was such that fungal diseases
were easily kept under control.
On the afternoon of 28th June, a violent hailstorm hit several communes, particularly
in the Mâconnais (Lugny, Plottes, Vergisson) and in the Côte d’Or (Beaune, Pommard,
Volnay, Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne). Our vineyards in Beaune and in Pommard were
particularly badly affected.
Summer remained unsettled, with heavy periods of rainfall during August. Veraison
began at the end of July and the growth cycle slowed, pointing towards a harvest starting
in early September.
The dry weather returned at the beginning of September, bringing with it a welcome
north wind that blew for a few days, helping return the grapes to good condition. Plenty
of sunshine helped to speed up ripening.
2014
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42
MA I SON LOU I S J ADO T 2014We began our harvest of the white grapes on 11th September as these had benefitted
immensely from the weather during the first fortnight of the month.
Nearly all the vineyards, from Chablis down to Beaujolais, were picked at the same time.
Harvest was fast-paced, thanks to the good weather, which continued throughout the
month.
The harvest of the Hautes Côtes, which began around a fortnight later, was magnificent,
providing both generous yields and very healthy grapes.
The balance of the whites is very promising. At this stage the wines are showing precise,
vivid acidity and promising concentration. Fermentation has been rapid and the aromas
are very pure.
The reds are deeply coloured. Tannins appear to be supple at this early stage of the
maturation process, although we need to wait for the completion of the malolactic
fermentation before we can confirm that these wines have achieved the high quality we
foresee. The wines of the Côte des Nuits are superb, with deep colour and generous
fruit.
February 2015
. . .
