Syntetiske tekstilfibre – 3d elektrospinding af bæredygtigt tøj

Syntetiske fibre3D-printning af bæredygtigt tøj

www.tekstilbiologi.dk

Tekstilbiolog/designer

2

Hvor meget plast i tøj?

4Worldwide fiber production. SOURCE: Data from Fiber Economics Bureau of the American Fiber Manufacturing Association.

5Percentage breakdown of consumption by fibre type for clothing and household textiles (IMPRO Textiles 2014)

54%

46%16%

28%

23%

30%

70%

Materialer i Tøj (EU)

Generel opfattelse af syntetiske fibre

7

MiljøbelastendeUKomfortabel

”Ikke relevant for mig” (Volumen)…

Syntetiske fibre

8

Råvarer Brugsfase EndOfLifeForædling (transport)

9Impacts of textile consumption in the EU-27 according to the ReCiPe's midpoint (a) and 4ndpoint (b) indicators. The percentage

contribution of the different life cycle stages is reported (IMPRO Textiles 2011)

Miljøbelastning af tekstil forbrugLivscyklus-faser

10

(transport)Råvarer Brugsfase EndOfLifeForædling

Tekstile fibre

Naturlige <> syntetiske

12

Klassificering – tekstile fibre

13

14

Manufactured - Modificérbar

15

Råvarer Brugsfase EndOfLifeForædling (transport)

16http://www.lenzing.com/en/concern/sustainability.html

17http://www.lenzing.com/en/concern/sustainability.html

18

Material Sustainability Indexhttp://msi.apparelcoalition.org

19

Material Sustainability Indexhttp://msi.apparelcoalition.org

20

IMPRO – textiles (2014)

21

(transport)Råvarer Brugsfase EndOfLifeForædling

22

(transport)Råvarer Brugsfase EndOfLifeForædling

24%

70%

<1%

80%

20%40%60%

(IMPRO Textiles 2014)

25% 75%

(mikro)plast i havet

24

(transport)Råvarer Brugsfase EndOfLifeForædling

25

(transport)Råvarer Brugsfase EndOfLifeForædling

70%

80%

26

(transport)Råvarer Brugsfase EndOfLifeForædling

Syntetiske tekstil fibre

Generelle egenskaber

28

Egenskaber• Varme-følsomme• Modstandsdygtig

– Fleste kemikalier– Insekter, svampe, råd– Sollys, regn

• Lav fugt-absorption• Statisk elektrisk• Slidstyrke høj• Pilling• Formstabil (resilience)

• Lette• Elastiske• Lugt• Isolerende

Syntetiske tekstil fibreTyper

NylonPolyester

OlefinAkryl

30

• Nylon

• Polyester

• Olefin

• Acrylic

16%

10%

≈3%

10%

Percentage breakdown of consumption by fibre type for clothing and household textiles (IMPRO Textiles 2014)

Polyaminer (PA)

PET

Polyethylen (PE)Polypropylen (PP)

Poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA)

31

• Nylon

• Polyester

• Olefin

• Acrylic

Nylon66

Polyester fabric

Polypropylene fabric

Knit Acrylic fabric

Percentage breakdown of consumption by fibre type for clothing and household textiles (IMPRO Textiles 2014)

16%

10%

≈3%

10%

Syntetiske tekstil fibreTyper

NylonPolyester

OlefinAkryl

3333

Polyurethan (PUR)

ElasthaneDorlastan

LycraSupplex

35

Syntetiske tekstil fibreTyper

NylonPolyester

OlefinAkryl

37

38

Polyester

Midweight Thermax® T-neck By Duofold (for Women)Extraordinary warmth, wicking power and soft comfort. 100% Thermax®

Syntetiske tekstil fibreTyper

NylonPolyester

OlefinAkryl

40http://triocean.com.tw/#about-us

41

Dyneema: 96% cotton, 4% polyethylene 33% polypropylene

ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene fiber

42

(PET PET/PP)

Syntetiske tekstil fibreTyper

NylonPolyester

OlefinAkryl

44http://www.dralon.com http://drytex.es

Genanvendelse

46

• Nylon

• Polyester

• Olefin

• Acrylic

Nylon66

Polyester fabric

Recycl Polyester fabric

Polypropylene fabric

Knit Acrylic fabric

47

Mikroorganismer

48

fungi Schizophyllum Commune

Pleurotus Ostreatus

Katharina Unger and Julia Kaisinger

http://www.livinstudio.com/fungi-mutarium/

49

…took six weeks to completely degrade just a small film of low-grade PET, and breaking down the higher-quality material used in packaging would take even longer

50

Råvarer Brugsfase EndOfLifeForædling (transport)

MiljøbelastendeUKomfortabel

”Ikke så vigtig” (Volumen)…

Birgit@birgitbonefeld.dk

3d-elektrospinding af (bæredygtigt?) tøj…

52

3D-printet tøj

53

5454

Poly(vinyl alcohol) (PVA)Poly(ethylene oxide) (PEO)Poly(lactic acid)

55

Materialer

56

Konstruktion

57

Anvendelse

Bomuldspose: x131, før dens klimaaftryk bliver mindre end plastposens. Bruges i gennemsnit 51 gange

Stofbleer: mere vand og udleder mere flydende affald Engangsbleer: mere affald i fast form og forbruger flere råmaterialer.

58

3d elektrospundet beklædning af biprodukt keratin

Syntetiske fibre3D-printning af bæredygtigt tøj

birgit@birgitbonefeld.dk

www.Tekstilbiologi.dk

60

61

62

IMPRO – textiles (2014)

63

IMPRO Textiles 2014

64

IMPRO Textiles 2014

65

Fiber blending

• the longer lifetime of polyester and of

cotton/polyester fibre blend

• the lower temperature for washing (40

°C for the T-shirt containing some

polyester compared to 45.8 °C for

cotton) reduces the impact of the use

phase

IMPRO Textiles 2014

66

Controlled De-Cross-Linking and Disentanglement of Feather Keratin for Fiber Preparation via a Novel ProcessACS Sustainable Chem. Eng., 2014, 2 (6), pp 1404–1410