V A Š B R E Z P L A Č N I I Z V O D / Y O U R P E R S O N A L C O P Y

Špela RazpotnikVaršava • Warsaw

Vsrkavanje trušča po ljubljansko • Absorbing noise Ljubljana-styleBela krajina – zelo osebno • Bela krajina – a very personal viewCvetoči halštat Dolenjske • The flourishing Hallstatt of DolenjskaPlezanje nad Ospom • Climbing above Osp

NollywoodTanzanija • Tanzania

Zimske olimpijske igre

Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine1 )

Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine1 )februar, marec • February, March 2010februar, marec • February, March 2010

olimpijske igreThe Winter Olympics

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{ Predsednikovo pismo }

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Spoštovane potnice in potniki!Veseli me, da vam lahko v imenu vseh zaposlenih v Adrii Airways zaželim dobrodošlico inprijetno počutje na našem letalu.

Leto, v katerega smo sedaj že dodobra vstopili, bo prineslo letalski industriji še večje izzive, kot jih je bila vajena do sedaj. Letalske družbe ob takih spremenjenih pogojih iščejo nove poti in skušajo manjši pri-hodek v potniškem in tovornem prometu omiliti na različne načine. V naši družbi si prav tako prizadevamo, da bi dober poslovni uspeh, ki smo ga bili navajeni v zadnjih letih, dosegli tudi z drugimi dejavnostmi. Vzdrževanje letal, ki temelji na več kot 40-letnih izkušnjah vzdrževanja letal proizvajalcev McDonnel Douglas, Airbus in Bombardier, je ena izmed takih dejavnosti. Predstavlja vse večji delež prihodkov rednega delovanja družbe. S servisno storitvijo, ki jo nudimo svojim odjemalcem, izboljšujemo tudi izkoristek naših zaposlenih v tem sektorju, ki se ponašajo z vrhunskim tehničnim znanjem. V letu 2010 pričakujemo, da bomo izvedli kar nekaj novih poslov. Med stalne strateške partnerje smo poleg priznanih letalskih družb, s katerimi nas vežejo pogodbe že vrsto let, uspeli z razpisi pridobiti tudi nove partnerje. Te aktivnosti vključujejo tako redne preglede za vzdrževaje letal družine Airbus kot tudi Bombardierjeve Ca-nadaire ter razne vnaprej neplanirane aktivnosti, kot so menjave motorjev, podvozij, poporavila poškodb in podobno.

Vsled pričakovanega povečanega opravljanja servisnih storitev načrtujemo v letu 2010 izgra-dnjo novega hangarja: potrebujemo ga namreč zaradi boljše organizacije dela. Dva hangarja bosta namenjena večjim pregledom domače in tuje flote, v najstarejšem pa se bodo opravljala linijska vzdrževalna dela domačih letal ter razni manjši pregledi.

Želel bi vas še opozoriti, da prehajamo 28. marca na poletni vozni red.

Največja novost je prav gotovo redna povezava z Beogradom, kjer bodo naša letala pristajala šestkrat na teden. Ponovno bomo vzpostavili tudi poletne redne povezave z Barcelono, Dublinom, Madridom in Manche-strom. Več informacij o naši ponudbi lahko najdete na naših prodajnih mestih in spletni strani www.adria.si.

Zahvaljujem se vam za vaše zaupanje in vam želim prijeten let.

Mag. Tadej Tufek,predsednik uprave

Dear passengers,On behalf of all the staff of Adria Airways, it is my pleas-ure to welcome you aboard our aircraft and to wish you a pleasant flight.

This year, now well under way, will bring even greater challenges to the aviation industry than those we have been used to. In these changing conditions, airlines must be on the lookout for new opportunities and try to offset in various ways the fall in revenue from passenger and freight transport. We at Adria are working hard to ensure that our other activities achieve the same good business results that we have grown used to in recent years. Aircraft maintenance, based on over 40 years of experience maintaining the aircraft of manufacturers McDonnell Douglas, Airbus Industries and Bombardier Aerospace, is one of these

activities. It represents a growing share of the company’s revenue from regular operations. Through the maintenance services we offer our clients, we also make better use of our person-nel in this division, who boast the very high-est level of technical know-how. We anticipate quite a lot of new work in 2010. In addition to our permanent strategic partners, including airlines with which we have had contracts for a number of years, we have succeeded in win-ning contracts with new partners. Maintenance activities include both scheduled inspections for aircraft from the Airbus and Bombardier CRJ families, and various non-scheduled activities such as replacing engines and landing gear, repairing damage, and so on.

In view of the expected increase in the vol-ume of maintenance services, a new (third) hangar is planned to be built this year, to enable

better organisation of work. Two hangars will be used for major inspec-tions of aircraft from our own fleet and those of customer airlines, while the oldest hangar will be used for line maintenance of Adria’s aircraft and various minor inspections.

I would like to end by reminding you that on 28 March we will be

moving over to our summer timetable. The most notable new feature this year is the scheduled service to Belgrade, where our aircraft will be landing six times a week. Once again we will be activating our sched-uled summer services to Barcelona, Dublin, Madrid and Manchester. You can find more information about our services at Adria points of sale and at www.adria-airways.com.

Thank you for choosing Adria Airways. Enjoy your flight!

Tadej Tufek, MScChairman of the Management Board & CEO

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Adria Airways In-Flight MagazineRevija Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine

je namenjena potnikom na poletih z Adrio Airways.Adria In-flight Magazine is complimentary

on Adria Airways flights.

Izdajatelj/Published:Adria Airways, Slovenski letalski prevoznik, d.d.

Adria Airways The Airline of SloveniaKuzmičeva 7, 1000 Ljubljana

Uredništvo / Editorial: Barbara Mihevc BukovecTel / Phone + 386 4 259 4541

E- mail: barbara.bukovec@adria.siUrednica / Edited by: Meta Krese

Oglaševanje / Advertising: Alenka DvoršakTel / Phone + 386 4 259 4526

E- mail: alenka.dvorsak@adria.siOblikovanje in AD / Design and AD: LUKS Studio

Prevod / Translated by: AmidasLektorica/ Language editing: Vera Samohod

Fotoliti / Lithography: Schwarz d.o.o.Tisk / Printed by: Schwarz d.o.o.

ISSN 1318-0789

Mnenja, izražena v tej publikaciji, so zgolj mnenja avtorjev ali intervjuvancev in ne odsevajo nujno

stališč Adrie Airways. Razmnoževanje brez pisnega dovoljenja je prepovedano. Izdajatelj ne prevzema nikakršne odgovornosti za nenaročeno gradivo.

The opinions expressed in this publication are those of the authors or persons interviewed only and do not necessarily reflect the views of Adria Airways.

Reproduction without written permission is prohibited. The pub lish er accepts no responsibility

for unsolicit ed material.

Brezplačen izvod / Your personal copy

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Vsebina/Contents

Janez Pukšič

Adrijina potnica/Adria PassengerŠpela RazpotnikŠpela RazpotnikMeta Krese

Varšava/WarsawPo Chopinovih sledovihIn the Footsteps of ChopinDavid Šalamun

LjubljanaVsrkavanje trušča po ljubljanskoAbsorbing Noise, Ljubljana-style Borja Močnik

Bela krajinaBela krajina – zelo osebnoBela krajina – A Very Personal ViewZlatko Zajc

DolenjskaCvetoči halštat DolenjskeThe Flourishing Hallstatt of DolenjskaMarjan Žiberna

Zimske olimpijske igre/The Winter OlympicsZimskošportni teden v Chamonixu,začetek zimskih olimpijskih igerThe Winter Sports Week in Chamonix, the Start of the Winter Olympic Games Tomaž Pavlin

50 km 9 ur50 km 9 hrsTomaž Pavlin

Plezanje/ClimbingPlezanje nad OspomClimbing Above OspUrban Golob

Nigerija/NigeriaNollywood – cvetoča filmska industrijav osrčju AfrikeNollywood – A Flourishing Film Industry in the Heart of AfricaTadej Žnidarčič

Tanzanija/TanzaniaLepa si, Tanzanija!Beautiful TanzaniaNevenka Lukić Rojšek

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Adria Airways marca ponovno v BeogradSlovenski letalski prevoznik Adria Airways bo 1. marca 2010 ponovno vzpostavil redno letal-sko povezavo z Beogradom. Med Ljubljano in Beogradom bodo večkrat tedensko leteli z leta-loma Canadair Regional Jet CRJ-200 z 48 sedeži in Canadair Regional Jet CRJ-900 s 86 sedeži.

Adria Airways je začela leteti na redni progi Ljubljana–Beograd leta 1968 in je letela na tej liniji vse do začetka devetdesetih let prejšnjega stoletja.

Srbskim potnikom bo preko Ljubljane omogočila že tradicionalno dobre povezave v evrop-ske prestolnice Amsterdam, Bruselj, Dunaj, Koebenhavn, Frankfurt, London, Muenchen, Pariz, Stockholm, Varšavo, Zuerich in v druga evropska mesta, v sodelovanju s članicami združenja Star Alliance pa bo nudila povezave z več kot 1.000 destinacijami po svetu.

In March Adria Airways returns to BelgradeOn 1 March 2010, Adria Airways, the Airline of Slovenia, will reintroduce a scheduled service to

Belgrade. Adria will fly several times a week between Ljubljana and Belgrade, using two 48-seat

Canadair Regional Jet CRJ200 aircraft and an 86-seat Canadair Regional Jet CRJ900.

Adria began operating a regular Ljubljana–Belgrade service in 1968 and the service contin-

ued to operate until the early 1990s.

Adria will offer passengers from Serbia the benefit of its traditionally good connections

via Ljubljana to major European cities including Amsterdam, Brussels, Vienna, Copenhagen,

Frankfurt, London, Munich, Paris, Stockholm, Warsaw and Zurich and, in conjunction with Star

Alliance members, over 1,000 destinations around the world.

Zaradi prenove bo aprila Letališče Jožeta Pučnika Ljubljana zaprto za ves prometZaradi obnove vzletno-pristajalne steze bo med 7. in 21. aprilom 2010 Letališče Jožeta Pučnika Ljubljana zaprto za ves promet. Letala Adrie Airways bodo v tem času letela iz Maribora. Brezplačen avtobusni prevoz z Letališča Jožeta Pučnika Ljubljana na Letališče Edvarda Rusjana Maribor bo približno tri ure pred predvidenim vzletom letala. Potniki bodo lahko na Letališču Jožeta Pučnika Ljubljana brezplačno parkirali svoja vozila. Vozni red transferjev bo objavljen na spletnih straneh Adrie Airways v januarju.

Število letov bo nekoliko manjše, vozni red (časi odhodov in prihodov) letov pa bo med prenovo nespremenjen. Zapletov in negativnega vpliva na rednost letalskega prometa ne pričakujemo. Kljub temu se potnikom vnaprej opravičujemo zaradi morebitnih nevšečnosti in jih prosimo za razumevanje.

Več informacij na www.adria.si/mbx.

Ljubljana Airport will close to all traffic for runway renovation between 7 and 21 AprilRunway renovation will be carried out between 7 and 21 April 2010, when Ljubljana Jože

Pučnik Airport will be closed to all traffic. During the closure Adria Airways flights will be oper-

ated from Maribor Airport. Free coach transfer will be arranged for passengers from Ljubljana

Jože Pučnik Airport to Maribor Edvard Rusjan Airport. Coach transfers are planned approxi-

mately three hours before estimated departure time. During the closure, parking for passen-

gers at Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport will be free of charge. The timetable of transfers will be

posted on the Adria Airways website in January.

The number of flights will be somewhat reduced, but the flight timetable (arrival and depar-

ture times) will be unchanged during renovation. Difficulties or a negative impact on air traffic

regularity are not expected. Nevertheless, we wish to apologise in advance to passengers for

any inconveniences and ask for their understanding.

More information on www.adria.si/mbx.

Zimski vozni red in napoved poletnega voznega redaZimski vozni red je v veljavi le še do vključno 27. marca 2010. V njem vam Adria Airways ponuja več kot 211 poletov na teden iz Ljubljane na 19 evropskih destinacij, lete znotraj EU Frankfurt–Dunaj ter v sodelovanju s partnerji Star Alliancea možnost potovanja po vsem svetu.

Štirikrat dnevno leti Adria v Frankfurt in Muenchen, trikrat na dan v Bruselj, na Dunaj in v Zuerich, dvakrat dnevno v Pariz, enajst letov na teden ima v Prištino in Skopje, desetkrat tedensko leti v Istanbul, devet letov opravi v Amsterdam, sedem letov na teden v Moskvo, Sarajevo in Tirano, šest v London, štiri v Varšavo in Podgorico ter trikrat tedensko v Kijev in Koebenhavn. Vsak teden letimo trikrat dnevno na progi med Dunajem in Frankfurtom. Z urnikom letenja se tru-dimo čim bolj prilagoditi potrebam potnikov in tako poskrbe-ti za dobro povezanost Slovenije s svetom.

Adria Airways vse leto povezuje s čarterskimi poleti Slovenijo z Egiptom. Za vse, željne toplih krajev, organizira-mo tudi pozimi v sodelovanju s turističnimi agencijami čar-terske lete v priljubljeni počitniški destinaciji Sharm el Sheik in Hurgado.

V poletnem voznem redu, ki bo v veljavi od 28.marca do 30. oktobra 2010, ponovno načrtujemo redne poletne pove-zave z Barcelono, Dublinom, Madridom, Manchestrom in Stockholmom.

Winter timetable and preview of summer timetableAdria’s winter timetable, which is valid until 27 March 2010,

offers 211 flights a week from Ljubljana to 19 European desti-

nations, flights within the EU ( between Frankfurt and Vienna)

and in conjunction with our Star Alliance partners, connections

throughout the world.

Adria flies four times a day to Frankfurt and Munich, three

times a day to Brussels, Vienna and Zurich, twice a day to

Paris, eleven times a week to Priština and Skopje, ten times

a week to Istanbul, nine times a week to Amsterdam, seven

times a week to Moscow, Sarajevo and Tirana, six times a

week to London, four times a week to Warsaw and Podgorica,

and three times a week to Kiev and Copenhagen. During the

week we operate three flights a day between Vienna and

Frankfurt. Our timetable is designed to match passengers’

needs as closely as possible and thus ensure good connec-

tions between Slovenia and the rest of the world.

Adria Airways operates charter flights to Egypt throughout

the year. For those who want hot weather even in winter, we

operate charter flights in conjunction with tour operators to the

popular holiday destinations Sharm el Sheikh and Hurgada.

The summer timetable, valid from 28 March until 30

October 201, will once again include summer scheduled serv-

ices to Barcelona, Dublin, Madrid, Manchester and Stockholm.

Adria Airways Novosti/News

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Ujemi ugoden polet!Na vseh Adrijinih rednih linijah imamo ugodne ponudbe po načelu »Kupi prej, potuj ceneje«. Da bi našo ponudbo še bolj približali vašim potrebam, imamo na voljo znižane ponudbe tudi za potovanje med tednom.

Adria Airways Special Offers!Special offers are available on all of Adria’s scheduled services on a “buy early, fly

for less” basis. In order to make our offer even more attractive, reduced fares are

available for travel during the week.

Adria Outlet in ostale posebne ponudbe Adrie Airways na spletu

V Adria Outletu vas čakajo priložnosti za nakup enosmernih vozovnic po posebno ugodnih cenah. Tiste, ki se radi prepuščate hitrim odločitvam in se zlahka pustite zapeljati, bo prebudila pestra ponudba naših destinacij.

Ne spreglejte tudi ostalih posebnih ponudb in bodite stalno obveščeni, zato nas redno obiskujte na www.adria.si.

Adria Outlet and other Adria Airwaysspecial offers onlineThe Adria Outlet gives you the chance to buy one-way tickets at specially reduced

prices. If you are the sort of person who likes to decide on the spur of the moment

and is easily tempted, you will find plenty to interest you in our wide range of des-

tinations.

Don’t miss our other special offers – keep up to date by visiting

www.adria-airways.com.

Aktualne ponudbe/Latest Offers

V vsaki številki revije vas bomo seznanjali z najnovejšimi ugodnimi ponudbami, ki jih za vas pripravljamo skozi vse leto. / We will keep you up to date with our latest special offers in each issue of the magazine. Special offers are available throughout the year.

Letališke takse in pristojbine so vključene v ceno. Strošek rezervacije ni vključen. / All taxes, fees are included in the price. Reservation Service Fee is not included. More info at www.adria-airways.com

Outlet _inflight:Layout 1 19.5.2008 14:15 Page 1

PARIZ– LJUBLJANA–SARAJEVO

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SKOPJE– LJUBLJANA– VARŠAVA

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PODGORICA– LJUBLJANA–ZUERICH

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AMSTERDAM– LJUBLJANA–TIRANA

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Delujem ekonomično,potujem poslovno!Za nakup letalske vozovnice vsaj sedem dni pred začetkom vašega potovanja vam za ceno potovanja v ekonomskem razredu nudimo polet v poslovnem. Ponudba velja za nakup vozovnice v ekonomskem razredu po najvišji ceni. Edina omejitev je nakup vozovnice najmanj sedem dni pred odhodom; spre-membe rezervacij so brezplačne.

Varčujem, a ne na račun kakovosti!Več o ponudbi preberite na www.adria.si ali pa pokličite tel. št. 080 13 00.

Work economically, travel in business!When you buy a ticket at least 7 days in advance, you can travel in business class for

the price of an economy class fare. This offer applies to economy class tickets pur-

chased at the highest rate. The only restriction is that you must purchase your ticket at

least 7 days before you travel. Changes to the reservation can be made free of charge.

Savings, no change in quality!For more information visit www.adria-airways.com or call us on 080 13 00.

Adrijine E-noviceVabimo vas, da obiščete naše spletne strani www.adria.si in se prijavite na Adrijine E-novice. S tem boste enkrat mesečno obveščeni o naših novostih in posebnih ponudbah. E-novice bodo za vas vir dragocenih informacij in idej pri načrtovanju potovanja ali počitnic.

Naj bo obveščenost vaša prednost!

Adria E-newsWhy not visit our website www.adria-airways.com and subscribe to Adria’s

E-news service? Once a month you will receive updates on new services and

special offers – straight to your inbox! This means that E-news will be a valuable

source of information and ideas when you are planning a journey or holiday.

Let information be your advantage!

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{ Adria Airways }

Adrijina letalav mavričnih barvahPotniki, ki dobro poznajo Adrijine korporativne

barve, že nekaj časa opažajo, da se naša letala

občasno pojavljajo v barvah drugih družb.

V svetu so zunanje površine letal precej pogost medij

za oglaševanje.

Na splošno spada oglaševanje v medijih letalskih pre-voznikov med izredno učinkovite načine tržnega komu-niciranja, saj je potnik izpostavljen oglasnim sporočilom ves čas potovanja. Izbira raznovrstnih medijev, ki so

oglaševalcem na voljo, omogoča izvrstno prilagajanje različnim ciljnim skupinam. Običajnim tiskanim medijem letalskih prevoznikov so se že pred časom pridružili tudi ambientni, med temi pa je oglaševanje na trupu letal zagotovo najbolj opazno. Trup letala kot medij v tržnoko-munikacijskem spletu sodi že vrsto let med prestižnejše in je namenjen utrjevanju najboljših blagovnih znamk.

Tudi v Adrii smo v letu 2006 ponudili oglaševalcem zunanjost letal kot možen oglaševalski medij. Pri takem oglaševanju moramo upoštevati določene omejitve, saj mora prepoznavnost Adrie vendarle ostati jasna.

Nekateri poslovni partnerji so se za to možnost kmalu odločili in do sedaj smo spremenili že 5 letal v različne kreative posameznih podjetij. Z vidika oglaševalcev je tako oglaševanje zelo zanimivo, saj prispeva k oglaševanju in prepoznavnosti njihovih blagovnih znamk doma in v tu-

jini. Letala Adrie Airways pristajajo na pomembnih evropskih letališčih in glede na več kot milijon prepeljanih lastnih potnikov, milijon in pol potnikov na letališču v Ljubljani in veliko število potnikov na tujih letali-ščih lahko trdimo, da je tako trženje eno izmed najbolj učinkovitih.

Kreativo oglaševalca lahko namestimo na letalo z barvanjem ali kot folijo – nalepko. V zadnjem času uporabljamo zlasti folije, saj imajo v primerjavi z barvanjem naslednje prednosti: enostavno nameščanje in odstranjevanje kreativ (s takšnim načinom nanašanja ne posegamo v obarvani sloj letala), čistejšo tehnologijo, predvsem pa hitrejši posto-pek (med drugim: možnost postopnega nameščanja/odstranjevanja kreative, takoj po odstranitvi kreative lahko letalo prične z letenjem ...).

Polepitve letal izvaja za Adrio poseben pooblaščeni izvajalec, ki lepi tudi naše registrske oznake. Za lepljenje reklamnih napisov na letalski trup namreč niso primerne vse vrste nalepk, ampak so v ta namen po-sebej predpisane specifikacije v naših tehničnih priročnikih: ustrezati morajo vsem pravilom tako s tehnične kot tudi z varnostne plati. Čas nanašanja kreative na letalo je odvisen od njene zahtevnosti, površin, na katere nanašamo, in števila barvnih folij. Po postavitvi kreative lahko letalo zapusti hangar po 8 urah. V tem času je zagotovljena ma-ksimalna sprijetost lepila s površino.

Sklenjene pogodbe za oglaševanje na trupu letal trajajo ponavadi od enega do dveh let. V Adrii pa smo postavili omejitev, da bomo tovrstne-mu oglaševanju na letalih namenili največ 30 odstotkov naše flote, saj potrebujemo ostala letala v reprezentativne namene naše družbe, za občasne državniške potrebe in za potrebe združenja Star Alliance.

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Adria Aircraftin Rainbow Colours

Passengers familiar with Adria’s corporate livery have been noticing for some time that our aircraft occasionally appear in the colours of other companies. Around the world, aircraft exteriors are quite a common advertising medium.

Advertising on aircraft in general is a very effective form of market communication, since the passenger is exposed to the advertising mes-sage throughout the journey. The choice of different media available to advertisers allow advertising to be adapted to different target groups. The usual print media of airlines were joined some time ago by ambi-ent advertising, where advertising on aircraft fuselages is without a doubt the most eye-catching. The aircraft fuselage has for years been among the more prestigious media in the marketing communications field and is used to boost the image of top brands.

Adria began offering advertisers the exterior of our aircraft as poten-tial advertising space in 2006. Certain limitations have to be observed with this kind of advertising, since Adria’s own identity must remain clear. Some of our business partners have been quick to choose this option and to date we have already converted five aircraft into “crea-tives” for individual companies. From the advertisers’ point of view, this form of advertising is very attractive since it contributes to the ad-vertising and recognisability of their brand both at home and abroad. Adria Airways aircraft land at important European airports and if we consider the more than one million passengers that we carry, the mil-lion and a half passengers who pass through Ljubljana Airport, and the enormous number of passengers at foreign airports, it is fair to say that this is one of the most effective forms of marketing.

The advertiser’s banner can be placed on the aircraft either by paint-ing or as a sticker. Recently we have mainly been using stickers, which have the following advantages over paint: simple application and re-moval of the advertisement (this method does not affect the painted surface of the aircraft), cleaner technology and, above all, a faster proc-ess (the possibility of gradual application/removal of the banner, the aircraft can start flying immediately after removal, and so on).

Attaching the stickers is carried out for Adria by a special authorised contractor who also attaches our registration markings. Not all types of stickers are suitable for attaching advertisements to an aircraft fuselage, and the required specifications are specially prescribed in our technical manuals: stickers must correspond to all the rules both in the technical sense and from the point of view of safety. The time required to apply an advertising banner to an aircraft depends on the difficulty, the surfaces to which it is applied, and the number of colour stickers. Following applica-tion of the banner, the aircraft can leave the hangar after 8 hours. This pe-riod guarantees the maximum bonding of the adhesive with the surface.

Contracts for advertising on an aircraft fuselage usually last between one and two years. Adria has decided to limit this form of on-aircraft advertising to a maximum of 30% of our fleet, since we need the re-maining aircraft to represent our company, for occasional state func-tions and for the needs of Star Alliance. A

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Ljubljana, Mestni muzej, do 4. aprila

Razstava grafik Pabla Picassa:Bikoborbe. Mit. Eros.Pablo Picasso se je med letoma 1904 in 1972, torej dejansko vse svoje umetniško življenje, posvečal likovnemu mediju grafike. Na razstavi je izbor okoli 90 grafičnih listov, ki ponuja kronološki in tematski presek umetnikovega grafičnega opusa.

Motivi, ki so Picassa zanimali in jih je mojstrsko zarisoval v tiskarske plošče, so zelo razno-vrstni: grška in rimska mitologija, bikoborbe, odnos med slikarjem in njegovim modelom, živali, tihožitja, portreti in izjemne ilustracije knjig. Razstavljen je tudi izbor grafik iz serije Suite Vollard, ki jo likovni kritiki štejejo za eno najpomembnejših grafičnih serij 20. stoletja.

Grafični listi na razstavi zajemajo enajst časovnih in tematskih ciklov, katerih skupni ime-novalec so bikoborbe, mit in eros.

Razstavljena dela prihajajo iz zbirk Galerije Fetzer v Nemčiji, ki hrani opuse velikih imen evropske umetnosti.

Ljubljana, City Museum, until 4 April

Exhibition of prints by Pablo Picasso: Bullfights. Myth. Eros.Between 1904 and 1972 – actually the whole of his artistic life – Pablo Picasso devoted himself to

the medium of prints. The exhibition contains a selection of around 90 prints offering a chronologi-

cal and thematic cross-section of the artist’s printmaking oeuvre.

The subjects which interested Picasso, and which he masterfully transferred to printing plates,

are very diverse: Greek and Roman mythology, bullfights, the relationship between the artist and

his model, animals, still lifes, portraits and extraordinary book illustrations. The exhibition also

includes a selection of prints from the Vollard Suite, considered by art critics to be one of the most

important series of prints of the 20th century.

The prints at the exhibition include eleven chronological and thematic cycles whose common

denominators are bullfights, myth and eros.

The works come from the collections of the Galerie Fetzer in Germany, which is home to works by

some of the greatest names of European art.

www.mm-lj.si

{ Umetnost & kultura }Ljubljana, Galerija Jakopič, do 28. februarja

Antoni Clavé:Svet umetnosti.1934–2002Razstavljenih je 44 del Antonija Clavéja (1913–2005), zbranih iz zasebnih zbirk posebej za to razstavo. Gre za umetniška dela, kot so kolaži, filmski plakati, gledališke scenerije in slikarska platna; dela izražajo raznovrstno ustvarjalnost umetnika, ki je leta 1984 s samostojno razstavo predstavljal Španijo na Beneškem bienalu. Antoni Clavé sodi med najznamenitejše pionirje španskega mo-dernizma s kar največjim mednarodnim vplivom.

Ljubljana, Galerija Jakopič, until 28 February

Antoni Clavé: World of Art. 1934–2002The exhibition consists of 44 works by Antoni Clavé (1913–2005),

specially selected for this exhibition from private collections. They

include works such as collages, film posters, theatrical sets and

canvases. These works express the diverse forms of creativity of an

artist who, in 1984, represented Spain at the Venice Biennale with a

solo exhibition. Antoni Clavé was one of the most prominent pioneers

of Spanish modernism and had an enormous international influence.

www.mm-lj.si

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Antoni Clavé, Castiglione, 1996

Pablo Picasso, Faun odkriva ženo, akvatinta, 1936, Suite Vollard

Novo mesto

Dolenjski muzejDolenjski muzej Novo mesto letos beleži 60-letnico delovanja. Prve stalne raz-stave so bile odprte leta 1953 v stavbi Križatija. Od takrat do danes se je muzej razvil v slovenski splošni pokrajinski muzej z arheološkim, etnološkim, kul-turnozgodovinskim in umetnostnozgodovinskim kustodiatom, kustodiatom za novejšo zgodovino, pedagoško službo in konservatorsko-restavratorsko de-lavnico za arheološko gradivo ter dislociranima enotama Jakčev dom in Koče-vski rog. Kompleks muzeja pa se je z ene razširil na štiri stavbe, v katerih so po-leg osrednjega muzejskega razstaviščnega prostora za občasne razstave z vseh področij muzejskega dela postavljene tri stalne razstave: etnološka in razstava novejše zgodovine (NOB) ter za muzej najprepoznavnejša arheološka razstava. V letu 2008 je bila postavljena povsem na novo pod naslovom Arheološka podoba Dolenjske, prikazuje pa izjemno in bogato arheološko preteklost z vso do sedaj odkrito najprestižnejšo evropsko pomembno arheološko dediščino Dolenjske, ki s cvetočim dolenjskim halštatom tudi v veliki meri prispeva k poznavanju celotne evropske prazgodovine.

V dislocirani enoti Jakčev dom, ki je od leta 1984 spomenik rojaku, slikarju in grafiku Božidarju Jakcu, sta poleg stalne razstave Jakčevih del na ogled še dve stalni likovni razstavi, in sicer Dolenjska umetnost med 17. in 20. stoletjem ter likovno pedagoška zbirka, ki je edina tovrstna zbirka v Sloveniji.

Dislocirana enota Kočevski rog s sedežem v Lukovem domu pod Bazo 20 upravlja, ureja in predstavlja spomeniški območji v celoti ohranjenih partizan-skih bolnišnic Jelendol in Zgornji Hrastnik s pripadajočimi grobišči ter v celoti ohranjenih vseh 26 barak na Bazi 20, kjer sta postavljeni tudi dve stalni razsta-vi, ki prikazujeta dogajanje v Kočevskem rogu med drugo svetovno vojno.

Novo Mesto

Dolenjska MuseumThis year the Dolenjska Museum in Novo Mesto is celebrating 60 years of activity.

The first permanent exhibitions were opened in 1953 in the Križatija building. Since

that time the museum has developed into a general regional museum with curato-

rial departments covering archaeology, ethnology, cultural history, history of art and

recent history, an education department, a conservation/restoration workshop for

archaeological material and two additional sites – the Jakac House and Kočevski

Rog. The museum complex has grown from one building to four. As well as the main

exhibition space for temporary exhibitions from all fields of the museum’s work,

the complex also houses three permanent exhibitions – on ethnology, the Second

World War and archaeology (the field for which the museum is best known). In

2008 the archaeology exhibition was completely refurbished and reopened as The

Archaeological Image of Dolenjska. It presents the region’s extraordinarily rich ar-

chaeological past and every aspect of the most prestigious archaeological heritage

so far unearthed in Dolenjska – a heritage of European importance which, with the

“flourishing Hallstatt of Dolenjska”, also makes an important contribution to knowl-

edge of European prehistory.

The Jakac House, since 1984 a monument to the painter and printmaker Božidar

Jakac, a native of Novo Mesto, contains, in addition to a permanent exhibition of

Jakac’s works, two other permanent art exhibitions: The Art of Dolenjska from the

17th to the 20th Century, and an art education exhibition, the only collection of its

kind in Slovenia.

The Kočevski Rog unit, which is based in Lukov Dom below Baza 20, adminis-

ters, curates and presents the monument areas in the fully conserved Jelendol and

Zgornji Hrastnik partisan hospitals with their associated cemeteries and all 26 fully

conserved huts at Baza 20, which also contain two permanent exhibitions present-

ing events in Kočevski Rog during the Second World War.

www.dolmuzej.com

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{ Art & Culture }Fo

to: B

. Puc

elj

Antoni Clavé, Castiglione, 1996

Ljubljana, Grand Hotel Union & Tango bar,

od 15. do 18. aprila

6. mednarodni tango festival Ljubljana 2010Tango se je rojeval pred stoletjem v množici imi-grantov, ki niso imeli ne skupnih plesov, ne glasbe, ne jezika. Družila sta jih le potreba po človeški bližini, objemu in predanosti – ter trd vsakdan razosebljenega sveta. Tango, ki je bil globaliziran, še predno je zapustil porečje Srebrne reke (Rio de la Plata), je pred stotimi leti ponudil odgovore na iska-nja, s katerimi se ponovno srečujemo danes.

Druženje s prijatelji – morda še neznanimi – vsa-ko pomlad pripelje v Ljubljano stotine plesalcev argentinskega tanga z vsega sveta. Tesno objeti preplešejo štiri noči, čez dan pa se družijo in si na plesnih delavnicah izmenjujejo skrivnosti plesa in glasbe.

Janja Frank, ki v Sloveniji širi argentinski tango že deset let, se ozre na prvih pet festivalov: »Med-narodni tango festival Ljubljana smo naredili, da bi Slovencem približali tango, ta dostojanstveni izraz strasti, svetovljanstva in druženja. V resnici smo slovenski tango še bolj uspešno predstavili svetu, ki sedaj redno prihaja k nam v goste. Bodoče tangerje iz Slovenije vabim, da zaplešejo svoje prve tango korake ravno na Festivalu. Brez strahu pred množico.«

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{ Umetnost & kultura }

Ljubljana, Cankarjev dom, od 9. februarja do 7. marca

Fotografija leta 2010V preddverju Cankarjevega doma letos že šestnajstič zapovrstjo razstavljajo avtorske in reportažne foto-grafije, izbrane na natečaju Fotografija leta revije za kulturo Emzin. Gre za natečaj, ki se je z dolgoletno tradicijo, številom sodelujočih, strokovno žirijo in prisotnostjo v javnosti uveljavil kot osrednji slovenski fotografski natečaj. Najboljša prijavljena dela so nagrajena in razstavljena v Cankarjevem domu, nagrajeni opusi pa so skupaj s predstavitvijo nagrajenih avtorjev objavljeni tudi v reviji za kulturo Emzin.

O izboru fotografij je letos odločala mednarodna strokovna žirija, v kateri so se zbrali fotoreporter Darko Bandić (agencija Associated Press, Hrvaška), fotoreporter Antoine D'Agata (agencija Magnum, Francija), art direktorica revije Emzin Metka Dariš, višja kustosinja v Arhitekturnem muzeju Ljubljana Cvetka Požar in fotograf Klavdij Sluban.

Ljubljana, Cankarjev Dom, 9 February to 7 March

Photo of the Year 2010This year the foyer of Cankarjev Dom is given over for the 16th time to an exhibition of artistic and documenta-

ry photographs selected at the Photo of the Year competition run by culture magazine Emzin. Thanks to its long

tradition, the number of participants, the jury of experts and its public impact, this competition has established

itself as Slovenia's main photography competition. The best entries are awarded prizes and exhibited in Can-

karjev Dom. The winning works are also published, together with a presentation of the winning photographers,

in Emzin.

This year the photographs were chosen by an international expert jury consisting of the photojournalist

Darko Bandić (Associated Press, Croatia), the photojournalist Antoine D’Agata (Magnum, France), Metka Dariš

(art director of Emzin), Cvetka Požar (senior curator at the Museum of Architecture, Ljubljana) and the photog-

rapher Klavdij Sluban.

Samo Rovan, Fotografija leta 2009/Photo of the Year 2009

Ljubljana, Cankarjev dom, od 9. marca

Slovenia press photo 2010Slovenia press photo 2010 (SPP 2010), festival novinarske in dokumentarne fotografije, se bo zaključil 9. marca 2010 z osrednjo razstavo v Cankarjevem domu v Ljubljani. Slovenski fotografi se bodo za prestižne naslove, podeljene na osrednjem dogodku, potegovali v petih kategorijah: šport, novice, narava in oko-lje, zabava in kultura ter ljudje. Mednarodno žirijo, ki bo izbirala najboljšo slovensko novinarsko foto-grafijo leta, bo vodil Christopher Morris iz agencije VII.

V sklopu festivala se bo v začetku marca zvrstila množica dogodkov in fotografskih razstav. Prav člani ene najpomembnejših in najvplivnejših svetovnih fotoagencij VII bodo 1. marca pripravili eno od osre-dnjih razstav: svetovno znano razstavo z naslovom »WAR«. Festival pa se bo uradno pričel z otvoritvijo pregledne razstave francoske agencije SIPA PRESS ob njeni 40-letnici delovanja.

V pestrem spremljevalnem programu festivala SPP 2010 bodo tudi predavanja in strokovne delavnice za slovenske fotografe, ki jih bodo vodili člani foto agencije VII.

Ljubljana, Cankarjev Dom, from 9 March

Slovenia Press Photo 2010Slovenia Press Photo 2010 (SPP 2010), a festival of press and documentary photography, ends on 9 March

2010 with a main exhibition at Cankarjev Dom in Ljubljana. Slovene photographers will compete for the prestig-

ious prizes awarded at the main event in five categories: Sport, News, Nature & Environment, Entertainment &

Culture, and People.

The international jury responsible for choosing the best Slovene press photograph of the year will be headed

by Christopher Morris of the VII Photo agency.

A wealth of events and photography exhibitions will take place in early March as part of the festival programme.

On 1 March the members of VII Photo, one of the most important and influential photographic agencies in

the world, host one of the central exhibitions: a world-famous exhibition entitled “WAR”. The festival officially

begins with the opening of the retrospective exhibition created by the French agency Sipa Press to mark its

40th anniversary.

The varied programme accompanying SPP 2010 also includes lectures and workshops for Slovene photogra-

phers led by members of VII Photo.

www.sloveniapressphoto.si

»Kajti tudi v množici je tango samoten,« je zapi-sal Horacio Ferrer. To in druge lepe misli o tangu najdemo na uradni spletni strani festivala in v domu slovenskega tanga.

Ljubljana, Grand Hotel Union & Tango Bar,

15–18 April

6th Ljubljana International Tango Festival 2010The tango was born a century ago among a mass

of immigrants who had no dances in common, no

music in common and no common language. They

were brought together merely by their need for hu-

man proximity, human embrace and the surrender

of the self – and by the harsh everyday reality of a

depersonalised world. A hundred years ago the tango,

which was globalised even before it left the River

Plate Basin, offered answers to questions which we

are encountering once again today.

Each spring, the opportunity to mix with friends –

who are perhaps still strangers – brings hundreds of

dancers of the tango argentino to Ljubljana from all

over the world. In close embrace they dance for four

nights, while during the day they socialise and share

secrets of dance and music at dance workshops.

Janja Frank, who has been spreading the word

about Argentine tango in Slovenia for ten years,

looks back at the first five festivals: “We created the

Ljubljana International Tango Festival so as to bring

the tango – this dignified expression of passion,

cosmopolitanism and social interaction – closer to

Slovenes. In reality, we have been even more suc-

cessful at presenting Slovene tango to the world,

and the world is now our regular guest. I invite future

tangueros from Slovenia to dance their first tango

steps at the Festival. Without fear of the crowd.”

“Because even in a crowd, the tango is solitary,”

wrote Horacio Ferrer. You can find this and other

beautiful thoughts on tango on the official Festival

website, the home of Slovene tango.

www.tangoslovenija.si

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{ Art & Culture }

Stephanie Sinclair, Afganistanske neveste/Afghan Brides, 2005

Škofja Loka

Loški muzejLoški muzej domuje na Loškem gradu, ki se prvič omenja že leta 1202. Pod gradom je v začetku l3. stoletja začelo nastajati mesto Škofja Loka, upravno in gospodarsko središče obsežnega zemljiškega gospostva, ki je bilo v letih 973–1803 last bavarske škofije Freising. Skozi stoletja je grad služil gospodar-skim, upravnim in izobraževalnim namenom, danes pa opravlja kulturno poslanstvo in je kot prepoznavna stavbna dediščina deležen temeljite obnove. V muzeju so obiskovalcem na ogled arheološka, zgodovinska, kulturnozgo-dovinska, umetnostna, etnološka in prirodoslovna zbirka. Arheološke najdbe izpričujejo poselitev loškega ozemlja od eneolita dalje, prav tako pa osvetlju-jejo življenje v srednjeveškem mestu in na grajskih postojankah. Zgodovinske zbirke predstavljajo tisočletno zgodovino prebivalcev Loke in loškega oze-mlja, nekdanjo upravno strukturo zemljiškega gospostva, na ogled so vedute mesta, grajski inventar in cehovska dediščina. V umetnostni zbirki so vredni ogleda štirje baročni »zlati« oltarji v grajski kapeli in dela Ivana Groharja (1867–1911), »pomembnega člana četverice slovenskih impresionistov«. Etno-loška zbirka prikazuje način življenja pred industrializacijo in dediščino osmih obrti, ki so bile nekdaj zelo razširjene na Škofjeloškem: sitarstvo, čipkarstvo, klobučarstvo, glavnikarstvo, platnarstvo, barvarstvo, peka »malega kruhka« iz medenega testa in izdelava umetnega cvetja.

Na grajskem vrtu je urejen muzej na prostem, obnovljena Škoparjeva hiša z zasnovo iz 16. stoletja.

V muzejski galeriji prireja muzej občasne razstave; trenutno je na ogled raz-stava Sledi slovenske grafične dediščine.

Škofja Loka

Loka MuseumLoka Museum is housed in Loka Castle, first mentioned in historical sources in

1202. The town of Škofja Loka began to grow up below the castle in the 13th

century, as the administrative and economic centre of the extensive feudal posses-

sions belonging to the Diocese of Freising (in Bavaria) from 973 to 1803. Over the

course of the centuries the castle has served economic, administrative and edu-

cational purposes. Today it fulfils a cultural mission and, as a distinctive piece of

architectural heritage, is undergoing thorough renovation. Visitors to the museum

can view collections on archaeology, history, cultural history, art, ethnology and

natural history. Archaeological finds provide evidence of the settlement of the Loka

area from the Copper Age onwards. They also shed light on life in the medieval

town and its castles. The historical collections present the millennial history of the

inhabitants of Loka and the surrounding area, including the former administrative

structure of the feudal estate. Visitors can see historical views of the town, items of

furniture and other objects from the castles, and the heritage of the former guilds.

Particularly worth seeing in the art collection are the four Baroque “gold” altars in

the castle chapel and the works of Ivan Grohar (1867–1911), an important mem-

ber of the quartet of Slovene Impressionists. The ethnology collection shows how

people lived in the time before industrialisation and the heritage of eight crafts

or trades that were once very widespread in the Loka area: sieve-making, lace-

making, the hat trade, comb-making, the linen trade, the dyer’s trade, the baking

of gingerbread and the making of artificial flowers.

The castle garden contains the Thatcher’s House, dating from the 16th century,

which is set up as an open-air museum.

The museum gallery is used for temporary exhibitions. Currently on view is the

exhibition “Traces of Slovene Printmaking Heritage”.

www.loski-muzej.si

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{ Umetnost & kultura }

Foto

: Jur

e N

astr

an

{ Art & Culture }

Ljubljana, Galerija Alkatraz, marec

Elke Auer &Esther Straganz:The Queen of EggsProjekt Galerije Alkatraz se je začel na pobudo mladih študentov Aka-demije za likovno umetnost leta 1996. Transformacija in revitalizacija zgradbe Hleva znotraj Avtonomnega kulturnega centra Metelkova mesto v galerijski prostor je predstavljala novo iniciativo v duhu, da umetniki upravljajo s prostori (Artists Run Places). Galerija Alkatraz si je zadala za svoj cilj predstavljanje mladih umetnikov in njihovih del, premoščanje generacijskih razlik s predstavitvijo različnih generacij umetnikov kot tudi začetek dialoga o fenomenih v sodobni umetnosti, kulturi in širši družbi; spodbuja interakcijo in premičnost pristopov koncipiranja galerije od statičnega k dinamičnemu ter alternativne možnosti prezentacije in promocijo umetnikov v mednarodnem pro-storu.

V času 11. mednarodnega feminističnega in queer festivala Rdeče zore bodo v Galeriji Alkatraz gostili razstavo umetnic Elke Auer in Esther Straganz z naslovom The Queen of Eggs.

Elke Auer (1980) in Esther Straganz (1979) ustvarjata skupaj od leta 2000. Obe sta diplomirali v letu 2005 na Univerzi za aplikativne ume-tnosti na Dunaju (Universität für angewandte Kunst Wien) v letniku Karla Dudeska in Petra Weibla. V zadnjem času se ukvarjata predvsem s pošastmi. Z mnogimi pošastmi, ki sta jih rekrutirali, kot se izrazita, sta raziskovali normativnost in poželenje, radikalno podaljšana in fragmentirana telesa.

Ljubljana, Alkatraz Gallery, March

Elke Auer & Esther Straganz: The Queen of EggsThe Alkatraz Gallery project was started by young students from the

Academy of Fine Arts in 1996. The revitalisation of the “Stable” building

within the “autonomous cultural zone” of Metelkova Mesto and its trans-

formation into a gallery space was a new initiative in the spirit of artist-

run spaces. The Alkatraz Gallery set itself the goals of presenting young

artists and their works, bridging the generation gap with a presentation

of different generations of artists and initiating dialogue on phenomena

in contemporary art, culture and wider society. The gallery encourages in-

teraction and a mobility of approaches in conceiving the gallery, from the

static to the dynamic, and alternative possibilities for the presentation

and promotion of artists in an international context.

During the 11th edition of the international feminist and queer festival

Red Dawns, the Alkatraz Gallery will host an exhibition by the artists Elke

Auer and Esther Straganz entitled The Queen of Eggs.

Elke Auer (1980) and Esther Straganz (1979) have been working

together since 2000. Both graduated in 2005 from the University of Ap-

plied Arts Vienna, where they studied under Karel Dudesek and Peter

Weibel. Their recent work has focused above all on monsters. With the

many monsters they have “recruited” (to use their expression), they have

explored normativity and desire, and radically elongated and fragmented

bodies.

www.kudmreza.org/alkatraz

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London, Camden Arts Centre

Eva Hesse: Studiowork

Do 7. marca

Studiowork je individualna predsta-

vitev dela v Nemčiji rojene ameriške

umetnice Eve Hesse (1936–1970),

pomembne ustvarjalke v povojni

umetnosti. V vsej svoji karieri je Eva

Hesse poleg velikih skulptur ustva-

rila tudi veliko majhnih eksperimen-

talnih umetniških del. Ti predmeti,

tako imenovani preizkusni objekti, so

narejeni iz najrazličnejših materialov,

vključno z lateksom, žično mrežo,

oblikovano kovino, voskom in gazo.

Ti predmeti, ki so ob njeni smrti

ostali v njenem ateljeju ali jih je še v

času življenja prodala ali pa podarila

prijateljem, se izmikajo enostranski

opredelitvi in jih uvrščamo med ek-

sperimente, drobne predmete, kalu-

pe, poskuse ali končana dela.

Razstava združuje približno petdeset

del iz različnih večjih javnih in zaseb-

nih zbirk po svetu, med njimi pa so

tudi izjemno krhke umetnine, ki prav

zaradi tega redko potujejo.

Stockholm, Moderna Museet

Evert Lundquist (1904–1994)

Do 11. aprila

Evert Lundquist je bil ključna oseb-

nost v sodobni švedski umetnosti, in

sicer kot umetnik in učitelj. Na ume-

tniško prizorišče je stopil leta 1934,

njegova kariera pa je trajala več kot

petdeset let. Leta 1989 je še vedno

predstavljal nova dela in tako dokazal,

da se – čeprav je bil skoraj slep – ni-

koli ni nehal umetniško izražati, poleg

tega pa je ustvarjal nova dela, ki so

pomembno razložila njegov življenjski

opus. Po smrti je zanimanje za njego-

vo delo usahnilo. Živahne razprave so

potihnile in ljudje so gledali nanj pre-

težno kot na meščanskega umetnika,

ki je upodabljal svetlobo in brezčasne

motive v klasični tradiciji. Do danes je

ostal glavna tema razprave Lundqui-

stov odnos do njegovih umetniških

predhodnikov, toda njegova dvou-

mnost, protislovnost in odprtost ga

trdno umeščajo v njegovo dobo, hkrati

pa odpirajo pot prihodnjim generaci-

jam in našemu času.

Moskva, Državna galerija Tretjakov

Vladimir Iljušenko: Grafike

Do 18. aprila

Vladimir Iljušenko (1936–2008) je

bil učenec Aleksandra Dejneke v

njegovem monumentalnem ateljeju.

Hkrati z mnogimi drugimi slikarji iz

šestdesetih let po neuspehu razsta-

ve v galeriji Manege (1962) ni imel

več priložnosti razstavljati. Ilustriral

je knjige, risal ter razvil in patentiral

novo vrsto barvne jedkanice – mo-

noprint.

Zürich, Kunsthaus

Zbirka Bührle: van Gogh, Cézanne,

Degas, Monet

Do 16. maja

Zbirka Bührle je med najslavnejšimi

še nevidenimi zasebnimi zbirkami v

Zürichu in po vsem svetu. Toda pred

dvema letoma, ko so tatovi pobegnili

s po enim pomembnim delom Céza-

nna, Degasa, Moneta in van Gogha

(od katerih sta se pozneje ponovno

pojavili le dve), je sicer neopazna

zbirka Bührle nenadoma prišla v sij

žarometov. To se tudi spodobi, kajti

ta edinstvena zbirka, ki vsebuje več

kot 150 slik in kipov, zbranih pod po-

kroviteljstvom sklada, je ena najpo-

membnejših zasebnih zbirk na svetu.

Amsterdam, Cobra Museum

Piet Ouborg

Do 14. marca

Cobra Museum predstavlja glavne

umetnine pionirskega dela pred-

hodnika in inovatorja v nizozemski

umetnosti. Piet Ouborg je bil veliko

pred svojim časom in njegova dela

so vizualni umetnosti zagotovila radi-

kalno novo identiteto.

Ta obsežna razstava vključuje izbor

Ouborgovih mojstrovin, med katerimi

so risbe, gvaši in slike iz vseh obdo-

bij njegovega ustvarjanja, poseben

poudarek pa je na poznejših delih.

Razstavljene umetnine kažejo, kako

se je Ouborg razvijal kot umetnik –

od prvih figurativnih, nadrealističnih

del v tridesetih letih do vizionarskih

abstraktnih slik med letoma 1947

in 1950, ki so pripeljale do preboja.

Ouborg je bil s svojim delom znanilec

takšnega dojemanja slikarstva, ki ga

morajo slikarji Cobre šele posvojiti.

Istanbul, Muzej sodobne umetnosti

Čas znotraj nas, fotografije iz

Turčije, Rusije in Grčije

Do 16. maja

Galerija sodobne fotografije v Istan-

bulu pripravlja mednarodno razstavo

za ljubitelje umetnosti. Trije kustosi

– Engin Özendes iz Muzeja sodobne

umetnosti v Istanbulu, Olga Sviblo-

va iz Moskovske hiše fotografije in

Vangelis Ioakimidis iz Fotografskega

muzeja v Solunu – bodo izbrali pet-

najst fotografov (po pet iz vsake od

treh držav), ti pa bodo predložili dela

za razstavo »Čas znotraj nas«, ki jo

bo sestavljalo 151 fotografij.

Dunaj, MAK

Umetniki v žarišču, Liam Gillick

Do 21. marca

V vlogi komunikatorja raziskuje Liam

Gillick obstoječe procese in oblikuje

nove strukture. Razmišlja o dizajnu

in strukturnih vidikih družbe ter jih

umešča v okvir za razpravo na vme-

sniku analize in domišljijske pripo-

vedi. Pri svojih modularnih objektih,

instalacijah in prostorskih posegih je

umetnik uporabil širok nabor materi-

alov in pristopov. Gillickovo obsežno

pisanje kot del njegove umetniške

prakse se zrcali v besedilnih kolažih,

knjigah in tekstih. Zanimajo ga sis-

temi stvari, kar se kaže v različnih

scenarijih ter vzporednih formacijah

in tudi v ključnih položajih gospodar-

skih ter političnih dogajanj.

( 16 )

{ Umetnost & kultura }

London, Camden Arts Centre

Eva Hesse: Studiowork

Till 7 March

Studiowork is a solo presentation of

the work of German-born American

artist Eva Hesse (1936–1970), a ma-

jor figure in post-war art. Throughout

her career, Eva Hesse produced a

large number of small, experimental

works alongside her large-scale

sculpture. These objects, so-called

test pieces, were made in a wide

range of materials, including latex,

wire-mesh, sculp-metal, wax and

cheesecloth. Left in her studio at the

time of her death, sold or given to

friends during her lifetime, these ob-

jects evade easy definition, seen var-

iously as experiments, little pieces,

moulds, tests or finished pieces.

This exhibition brings together

around fifty works drawn from major

public and private collections around

the world, including a number of

works that are extremely fragile and

hence rarely travel.

Stockholm, Moderna Museet

Evert Lundquist (1904–94)

Till 11 April

Evert Lundquist was a key figure in

modern Swedish art, both as an art-

ist and a teacher. His debut was in

1934, and his career spanned more

than fifty years. In 1989, he was still

presenting new work, demonstrat-

ing that, although he was almost

blind, he not only continued to be a

vigorous artist, but also contributed

new pieces of significance to the

understanding of his lifelong oeuvre.

After his death, however, interest

in Lundquist’s work waned. Lively

discourse came to a halt and he was

commonly regarded as a bourgeois

artist who portrayed light and time-

less motifs in the classical tradition.

Until now, the main theme of discus-

sion has been Lundquist’s relation-

ship to his forerunners in art, but

his ambiguity, contradictoriness and

openness place him firmly in his own

era, pointing towards future genera-

tions and our own times.

Moscow, The State Tretyakov

Gallery

Vladimir Ilyushenko. Graphics

Till 18 April

Vladimir Ilyushenko (1936–2008)

was Alexander Deyneka’s student at

his monumental studio. Alongside

many painters of the 1960s, he did

not have the opportunity of further

exposure after the failure of an ex-

hibition in the Manege (1962). He

worked on book illustrations, draw-

ings, and developed and patented

a new kind of colour etching – the

monoprint.

Zurich, Kunsthaus

The Bührle Collection: Van Gogh,

Cézanne, Degas, Monet

Till 16 May

The Bührle Collection is among the

most famous of unseen private

collections, both in Zurich and

worldwide. Two years ago, however,

when thieves made off with a major

work by each of Cézanne, Degas,

Monet and van Gogh (of which only

two have since re-surfaced), the

low-profile Bührle was suddenly in

the limelight. As well it might, since

this unique collection of over 150

pictures and sculptures, assembled

under the aegis of a foundation, is

among the most significant private

collections worldwide.

Amsterdam, Cobra Museum

Piet Ouborg

Till 14 March

The Cobra Museum presents high-

lights of the pioneering work of a

forerunner and innovator in Dutch

art. Piet Ouborg was well ahead of

his time and his work gave visual art

a radically new identity.

This extensive exhibition comprises

a selection of Piet Ouborg’s master-

pieces, including drawings, gouach-

es and paintings from all periods of

his career, with special emphasis

on his later work. These works show

how Ouborg developed as an artist,

from his first figurative, surrealistic

works in the 1930s to the visionary

abstract painting from 1947 to 1950

that led to his breakthrough. With

this work, Ouborg was a frontrunner

in a perception of painting that the

Cobra artists had yet to make their

own.

Istanbul, Museum of Modern Art

Time Within Us, Photographs from

Turkey, Russia and Greece

Till 16 May

The Istanbul Modern Photography

Gallery is mounting an international

exhibition for art lovers. Three cura-

tors – Engin Özendes from the Is-

tanbul Museum of Modern Art, Olga

Sviblova from the Moscow House

of Photography, and Vangelis Ioaki-

midis from the Thessaloniki Museum

of Photography – will be selecting a

total of 15 photographers (5 each

from their own country) to submit

works for display in "Time Within

Us", a show that will consist of 151

photographs.

Vienna, MAK

Artists in Focus, Liam Gillick

Till 21 March

In the role of communicator, Liam

Gillick examines existing processes

and produces new structures. He

considers the design and structural

aspects of society and places them

in a framework for discussion at the

interface of analysis and fictional

narration. In his modular objects, in-

stallations, and spatial interventions,

the artist has used a wide range of

materials and approaches. Gillick’s

extensive writing activity as part of

his artistic practice is reflected in

textual collages, books, and writ-

ings. He is interested in the system

of things, which is shown in diverse

scenarios and parallel formations, as

well as in key positions of economic

and political developments.

{ Art & Culture }

( 17 )

( 24 )

Besedilo: Meta Krese Fotografije: Jaka Adamič

»Želim si, da bi po končanem bivanju v tem stanovanju našel sobo in službo ali vsaj tudi v prihodnje

prodajal časopis,« je zapisal v Kraljih ulice Andrej S. Kralji ulice so njegov časopis: to je mesečnik za

brezdomstvo in sorodna socialna vprašanja, Kralji ulice pa je tudi društvo, katerega člani verjamejo,

da obstajajo načini, po katerih se brezdomci lahko vključijo v javno življenje in v njem tudi zavzemajo produktivne

vloge. Zgolj nudenje postelje in hrane ni dovolj, brezdomci potrebujejo tudi vizijo, ki bi obetala pot iz življenja brez

doma, je prepričana Špela Razpotnik, doktorica socialne pedagogike, zaposlena na Pedagoški fakulteti v Ljubljani.

{ Adrijina potnica }

kategorijah je sicer še vedno, saj prebiva v namestitvah, namenjenih brezdomcem, ampak če se on ne počuti več tako, je to krasno.

Zadnjič je nekdo na uredniškem sestanku rekel, da bi imel rad rubriko z recepti, ki bi ji dal naslov Brezdomci kuhamo … Pa smo mu rekli, saj se že ve, da smo brezdomci, ni treba, da to še na vsaki strani poudarjamo, saj je naš namen tudi ta, da ustvarimo skupnost, kjer ne bo tako važno, kdo je kdo.

Koliko se uporabniki istovetijo s časopisom?

Tisti, ki ga tudi soustvarjajo, se zelo identificirajo, tisti, ki ga samo prodajajo, se malo manj. Že prvo poskusno številko smo naredili v so-delovanju z bodočimi prodajalci: odločali so pri prispevkih, izbiri imena revije in tudi pri njenem izgledu.

Časopis je vaša ideja?

Ne, ni bila samo moja. Leta 2005 sem na socialni pedagogiki prvič vo-dila izbirni predmet delo z brezdomci. S študenti smo si zadali veliko ciljev, končni rezultat pa je bil časopis, kar smo poznali iz tujine. Mišljen je bil kot poskus, ki pa se je zelo hitro prijel. Postavili smo stojnico: v nekaj urah je pošlo vseh 300 izvodov. Potem smo si rekli: če pa ljudje to hočejo, bomo naredili ponatis. In to celo dva ali tri … Zdaj izhaja v nakladi 10.000 izvodov.

Prodajalcev, bolj ali manj rednih, je gotovo 120. Največ jih je v Ljubljani.

Društvo počne še veliko drugih stvari.

S časopisom se je začelo, potem se je pa hitro razvijalo dalje. Večina za-

Na uredništvu najbrž ni monotono in dolgočasno?

Precej živo je pri nas. Uredništvo sestavljajo različni ljudje: med nami so predstavniki brezdomcev, prostovoljci in tudi strokovni delavci. Ves čas prihajajo novi ljudje. Imamo nekaj rednih rubrik, drugače pa nam prinašajo prispevke iz dneva v dan. Ljudi pošiljamo pokrivat dogodke, prosimo za akreditacije … Približno polovico, velikokrat pa skoraj 80 od-stotkov tekstov prispevajo uporabniki, uvodnike pa si delimo. Naslednje 4 so si že rezervirali prodajalci. Zadnje čase je pravo navdušenje nad uvo-dniki. Časopis ima fotografa Tomislava Grudna, ki je zaposlen kot javni delavec in je naš uporabnik.

Imamo dopisnico iz Kopra, ki je bila nekdaj uporabnica, zdaj pa tudi vodi stanovanjsko skupino. Je nekako v dvojni vlogi. Včasih je težko do-ločiti, na kateri strani je kdo, in prav to, da so meje prehodne, se mi zdi pomembno.

Uporabnik, uporabnica?

Ne vem, kako bi drugače rekla, kadar izpostavljam to delitev. Izraz naj bi bil bolj nevtralen. Sem socialna pedagoginja in v stroki ta izraz uporabljamo za uporabnike in uporabnice organizacij, ki so namenjene brezdomcem. Mogoče je malce smešen. Prav to sem napisala v nekem članku; uporabljam ga zato, ker ni boljšega izraza, ki bi pokril to katego-rijo. Zdaj, ko imamo projekt podprtih stanovanj, neke vrste nastanitev v stanovanjski skupinah, je sploh v redu. To niso zavetišča. Fino mi je, ko kdo reče, saj zdaj sem v stanovanju, nisem več brezdomec. V uradnih

Špela Razpotnikurednica Kraljev ulice

( 25 )

Ali se problem brezdomcev pri nas veča ali pa se počasi rešuje?

Mislim, da se dogaja oboje. V zadnjih letih se obseg veča in je tudi bolj viden, po drugi strani pa je tudi vedno več organizacij, ki so si zadale za cilj neko bolj dolgoročno reševanje z vizijo, da bi brezdomci počasi dobili stanovanje. Ni dovolj, da se le ohranja obstoječe stanje.

Vedno več je – pa ne le v Sloveniji, temveč tudi drugje po Evropi – ra-znolikih skupin ljudi, ki se znajdejo brez doma; vedno več je mladih. Veliko je takih, ki so bili v reji ali v vzgojnih zavodih in so potem končali na cesti. Med njimi je precej takih, ki sploh nikoli niso imeli doma. Po naših raziskavah jih je okrog polovica s takšno izkušnjo. Predvsem tisti, ki nimajo opore v družini, lahko hitro pridejo na cesto.

Ne vem, kaj je bilo v socializmu drugače; verjetno je bilo več nekih podpornih mrež, organizacij, kjer so se lahko zadrževali in je bilo vse bolj sigurno. Gotovo je bilo lažje priti do službe, do stanovanja, zdaj pa vse te stvari popuščajo. Mogoče pri prejšnjih generacijah izključenost ni bila tako očitna. Stanovali so v socialnih stanovanjih, na primer na Ra-kovniku, kjer so bila včasih naselja za revne; tam so sicer živeli v revščini in imeli nizek standard, niso pa bili na cesti. Sama poznam 3 primere, kjer se socialna izključenost nadaljuje preko dveh ali celo treh generacij.

Tempo, s katerim poskušamo reševati težave, ni dovolj hiter. Še vsee-no pa obseg brezdomstva v Sloveniji ni tako velik, da bi lahko rekli, da ne moremo ničesar narediti.

dev, ki se jih društvo loteva, je odziv na potrebe ljudi, ki smo jih opazili. Lajšanje težav brezdomstva samo z nudenjem postelje in hrane se nam ne zdi dovolj.

Poleti 2006 smo dobili svoj prostor in odprli dnevni center. Vzporedno z ustvarjanjem časopisa se je začela tudi Univerza pod zvezdami, to so izobraževalne in kulturne dejavnosti za brezdomce. Dve leti teče projekt nastanitvene podpore kot odziv na velik razkorak med zavetišči in do-stojno namestitvijo v stanovanjih, ki je pri nas zelo velik.

Kako ste to dosegli?

Pred dvema letoma smo se na razpis v okviru evropskega gospodar-skega prostora in norveškega finančnega mehanizma prijavili z razvoj-nim pilotnim projektom, kasneje pa smo idejno zasnovo projekta naslo-vili še na Mestno občino Ljubljana in na Ministrstvo za delo, družino in socialne zadeve. Zdaj imamo 5 stanovanj, vključenih je 19 ljudi. Sledimo ideji: najprej stanovanje, ki daje ljudem izhodišče, da si lahko uredijo druge stvari. Težje je obratno. Logika, da bi si najprej uredili zdravstvo, službo in ne vem, kaj še vse, potem pa mogoče stanovanje, ne vzdrži. Na ta način se ljudje vedno vrtijo v nekih začaranih krogih: vključijo se v ka-kšen program zdravljenja, morajo toliko in toliko časa abstinirati, pa jim ne uspe, ker so na cesti … Tu ne gre samo za stanovanja, ampak za celo-stno podporo. Vsak uporabnik individualno dela z delavcem ali delavko in skupaj zastavita program, da bi se uporabnik v letu in pol osamosvo-jil. Nekaterim uspe, za druge pa je to še vedno prekratek čas.

Špela Razpotnik

( 26 )

{ Adria Passenger }

Društvo deluje tako, da lahko tudi zaposlujete brezdomce?

Ta hip imamo zaposlena dva javna delavca, ki sta uporabnika. Zdaj jih bo lahko več dobilo službo, verjetno osem, saj smo začeli s projektom so-cialnega podjetništva, in sicer s posredovalnico rabljenih predmetov, ki ga financira Ministrstvo za delo, družino in socialne zadeve. Brezdomci se velikokrat težko ponovno vključijo na trg dela zaradi najrazličnejših ovir. Pomembno je, da obstajajo delovna mesta, ki so prilagojena zanje. Tako ni treba čakati na čudeže, da se bodo oni prilagodili nekim zahte-vam, saj se to pač zelo redko zgodi kljub najboljšim namenom z obeh strani. Enako velja za organizacije, kot je naša: njihova prednost je v tem, da omogočajo ustvariti novo skupnost raznolikih ljudi – alternativni dom za tiste brez doma, kjer je človek sprejet v celoti.

Text: Meta Krese Photography: Jaka Adamič

My hope is that by the end of my stay in this flat I will

have found a room and a job, or at least be able to carry

on selling the newspaper in the future, writes Andrej S. in

Kings of the Street (Kralji ulice). Kings of the Street is his

newspaper: a monthly publication covering homelessness

and related social issues. Kings of the Street is also an

association whose members believe that there are ways in

which homeless people can be included in the life of society

and also play productive roles in it. It is not enough to offer

food and a bed: homeless people also need a vision that can

promise them a way out of the homeless life. So believes

Špela Razpotnik, a doctor of social pedagogy working at the

Faculty of Education in Ljubljana.

Am I right in thinking that your editorial meetings are anything but mo-

notonous?

Things are quite lively in our office. The editorial board is made up of different kinds of people. It includes representatives of homeless people, volunteers and also professionals. New people are always arriving. We have some regular columns, but otherwise articles arrive on a day to day basis. We send people out to cover events and we request accreditations… Approximately half – and often up to 80% – of the texts are contributed by users, while we share the editorials. The next four have already been reserved by vendors. Recently there has been real enthusiasm over the editorials. The newspaper has a photographer, Tomislav Gruden, who is enrolled in a public work programme and is one of our users.

We have a correspondent from Koper, a former user who now also runs a housing group. It is a kind of dual role. Sometimes it is difficult to determine what side someone is on, but the very fact that these bounda-ries can be crossed seems great to me.

editor, Kings of the Street

Špela Razpotnik

( 27 )

Users?

I don’t know how else to say it when highlighting this division. The expression ought to be more neutral. I am a social pedagogue and in my field we use this expression for the users of organisations that exist to help homeless people. Perhaps it sounds a bit funny. I actually said this in an article I wrote. I use it for want of a better expression to cover this category. Now that we have a supported housing project, which is a kind of accommodation in housing groups, it is quite all right. These are not shelters. I like it when someone says, “now that I am in a flat I am no longer a homeless person.” Officially he is still homeless, because he is living in accommodation reserved for homeless people, but if he no longer feels like a homeless person that is fantastic.

Recently someone said at an editorial meeting that he would like to publish recipes in a column called Homeless cooking… But we said to him: people already know we’re homeless, there’s no need for us to repeat it constantly, and anyway we are also trying to create a community where it is no longer so important who is who.

How much do users identify with the newspaper?

Those involved in creating it identify very strongly with it; those who merely sell it, slightly less. Even the first trial issue was created in col-laboration with future vendors: they were involved in decisions about articles, the choice of name and even the appearance of the publication.

Is the newspaper your idea?

No, not only mine. In 2005 I was teaching the elective subject “Work-ing with the Homeless” as part of the social pedagogy degree for the first time. The students and I set ourselves lots of goals, and the end result was the newspaper, which was something we had heard about from other countries. It was conceived as an experiment, which however took root very quickly. We set up a stall: in just a few hours we had sold all 300 copies. Then we said to ourselves, if this is what people want, we will do a reprint. And even two or three… Now the print run is 10,000 copies.

The number of more or less regular vendors is at least 120. Most of them are in Ljubljana.

The association also does a lot of other things.

It started with the newspaper but then it began to develop quickly. Most of the things that the association gets involved in are a response to needs that we have observed. Easing the harm of homelessness, such as offering a bed or food, does not seem enough to us.

In the summer of 2006 we got our own premises and opened a day cen-tre. Parallel with the creation of the newspaper we started the University under the Stars, a project involving educational and cultural activities for homeless people. The accommodation support project has been running for two years; this is a response to the big gap that exists between shel-ters and decent accommodation in flats. This gap is very big in Slovenia.

How did you achieve this?

Two years ago we submitted a developmental pilot project in response to a call for proposals in the context of the European Economic Area and the Norwegian Financial Mechanism. Later we also submitted it to the

City of Ljubljana and to the Ministry of Labour, Family and Social Af-fairs. We now have five flats and 19 people are included in the project. We are following an idea: first the flat, which gives people a starting point from which to sort out other things. It’s harder the other way round. The logic that you should first sort out healthcare, a job and whatever else, and then perhaps a flat, does not hold up. In this way people keep going round in circles and are unable to break out: they sign up for some treatment programme, and have to abstain for such and such a time, but then they can’t because they are on the street… Here it is not just about a flat, it is about total support. Every user works individually with a social worker and together they design a programme which aims to allow the user to become independent within a year and a half. With some people this works, while with others this is still too short a time.

Is the problem of homelessness in Slovenia getting bigger or is it slowly

being resolved?

I think that both things are happening. In recent years the scale of homelessness has been increasing, while on the other hand there are also more and more organisations that have set themselves the goal of finding a more long-term solution, a vision which sees homeless people slowly getting a place to live. It is not enough merely to maintain the ex-isting situation.

More and more people of diverse groups – not just in Slovenia but also elsewhere in Europe – are finding themselves without a home; more and more of them are young people. Many of them are people who have been in foster care or care institutions and then ended up on the street. Many of them have never had a home at all. According to research, around half of them are people with this kind of experience. Particularly those who do not have the support of a family can quickly find themselves on the street.

I don’t know what was different during the socialist era; there were probably more support networks, organisations where they could stay, and everything was more secure. It was certainly easier to get a job, a flat. Now, though, all these things are disappearing. Perhaps exclusion was not so evident with previous generations. They lived in social housing, in Rakovnik, where there was once housing for poor people, who may have lived in poverty and had a low standard of living, but they were not on the street. I myself know three such cases.

The pace at which we are attempting to resolve difficulties is not suf-ficiently rapid. Nevertheless, the scale of homelessness in Slovenia is not so great for us to be able to say that we cannot do anything.

Does the association also offer employment to homeless people?

At this moment we employ two people enrolled in public work pro-grammes who are users. Now more of them, probably eight, will be able to get a job because we have started a social enterprise project, actually a charity shop or thrift store, funded by the Ministry of Labour, Family and Social Affairs. Homeless people often have difficulty re-entering the labour market for a great variety of reasons. It is good that there are jobs that are adapted for them. This means that it is not necessary to wait for miracles, for them to adapt to specific demands. The same applies to organisations like ours: a new community is being created here, perhaps an alternative home where one is accepted as a whole person. A

Po Chopinovih sledovihVaršava

( 28 )

Besedilo: David Šalamun Fotografije: Arne Hodalič

Varšava Zime znajo biti v Varšavi mrzle. Temperaturam

pod ničlo se pridruži še močen veter. Po reki

Visli se ledene ploskve počasi spuščajo proti

Baltskemu morju. Ulice so vseeno polne ljudi. Ko sledim

Chopinovim stopinjam, mi zmrzujejo ušesa. Številne so

in vse leto 2010 bo mesto v znamenju dvestote obletnice

Chopinovega rojstva.

Pristal sem na letaliŠČu FrYderYK CHopin, spim V Hotelu Fryderyk Chopin, obiščem Narodowy Instytut Fryderyka Chopi-na. Mnogi dogodki, ki se bodo letošnje leto odvijali v mestu, so tesno povezani s tem inštitutom. Ta je namreč leta 2001 prevzel

odgovornost za Chopinovo dediščino, njen pomembni del pa je zbran v Muzeju Frédérika Chopina.

»Muzej bomo odprli prvega marca. Na obletnico Chopinovega rojstnega dne,« pove Alicija Knast, kuratorka muzeja. »Prostori so v gradu Ostrogski, ki je bil zgrajen v sedemnajstem stoletju. Leta 1859 ga je kupil glasbeni inštitut in ga spremenil v konzervatorij, ki je bil naslednik glasbene sekcije kraljevske univerze Varšave. Zasebniki in društvo Friderika Chopina so omogočili, da si bo moč ogledati pisma, beležke in druge predmete iz glasbenikovega življenja.«

Alicija Knast z navdušenjem pripoveduje, kaj vse se bo dogajalo v Chopinovem letu: »Gala koncert v Narodni operi bo prav poseben dogodek. Opera je bila kraj, kjer je Chopin predstavil javnosti svoj Koncert za klavir in orkester št. 1 v e-molu in z njim dosegel velik uspeh. Dogajanje bosta v živo prenašala tudi radio in televizija. Na ta dan bodo v vseh velikih evropskih prestolnicah potekale prireditve. Dvestota obletnica skladateljevega rojstva bo prav tako zaznamovala EXPO. V oktobru bodo prestižna glasbena tekmovanja. Večina koncertov bo v varšavski fi lharmoniji.«

Rektor Marek Bykowski me je povabil na obisk na Glasbeno akademijo Fryderyka Chopina. Ko se bližam akademiji, grem mimo trga Pilsudski. Na velikem praznem trgu je videti samo še ruševine nekdanjega vhoda v Saško palačo, ki je bila med drugo svetovno vojno uničena. Tudi Chopinovi so živeli v njenem veličastnem sklopu in glasbenikov oče je v tamkajšnji šoli učil francoski jezik. Zdaj je tu grob neznanega vojaka, posvečen padlim vojakom v obeh svetovnih vojnah. Kljub temu, da je minus deset stopinj, ob njem nepremično stojita dve častni straži. Ko hodim po bulevarju Krakowskie Przedmiescie, se mi pred očmi odvija podoba Varšave iz Chopinovih časov. Že pri sedmih letih je ustvaril svoji prvi dve polonezi. Vidim stare zgradbe, ki so večinoma

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{ Varšava }

povezane z glasbenikom. Kraljevska palača, univerza in palača Krasiński, kjer je mladi, domoljubni Poljak nazadnje prebival, preden je domovino za vedno zapustil. Takrat se je namreč rusko cesarstvo razširilo na Poljsko, mladi ustvarjalec pa ruske oblasti ni mogel priznati. To je bil tudi čas, ki je intelektualce zaznamoval s slovanskim nacionalnim duhom, prežetim z romantizmom. Skladatelj ni nikoli pozabil domovine. Še na zadnjem nastopu v Londonu leta 1848 je igral za poljske begunce. Ko je sestra Ludwika Jędrzejewicza po glasbenikovi smrti 17. oktobra 1849 prenesla na Poljsko njegovo srce, je bila izpolnjena skladateljeva zadnja želja: srce je shranjeno v stebru cerkve sv. Križa, le nekaj metrov oddaljene od palače Krasiński; Chopin je sicer pokopan na pokopališču Père Lachaise v Parizu.

Sprejme me rektor akademije Marek Bykowski. Razloži mi, da ima Akademija Fryderyka Chopina s slavnim skladateljem skupno le to, da je naslednica varšavskega konzervatorja iz glasbenikovega obdobja, in

Ko hodim po ulici Krakawskie Predmiescie, se mi pred očmi odvija podoba Varšave iz Chopinovih časov.( 30 )

{ Varšava }

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{ Varšava }

ko se vsakih pet let odvijajo Chopinova klavirska tekmovanja, lahko tekmovalci tukaj vadijo.

»Sta se pa na naši akademiji uveljavila dva komponista, ki sta na novo predelala Chopina: Ignacy Jan Paderewski, ki je bil profesor na varšavski akademiji, in Jan Ekier, zmagovalec klavirskega tekmovanja Friderika Chopina leta 1937,« nadaljuje Marek Bykowski.

Na akademiji imajo učence iz celega sveta. Marsikdo povadi kar na hodniku, preden se mu začne učna ura. »Zgradba iz šestdesetih let je dobro zgrajena, sobe so odlično izolirane. Postala pa je premajhna. Skozi okno se vidi tudi grad Ostrogski, tako da sta Instytut in muzej v naši bližini,« še pove.

Počasi se odpravim naprej. Hočem videti še Chopinov spomenik. Do leta 2007 je bil to največji Chopinov spomenik na svetu, zdaj je v Šanghaju. Njegova replika je bila postavljena v japonskem mestu Hamamatsu. Tudi v Chicagu naj bi postavili takega. Med potjo se ustavim pri palači Łazienki, 'palači na vodi', kot ji tudi rečejo. Malo se oddahnem. Za trenutek mi misel pobegne od Chopina. Otroci in odrasli v zasneženem parku so videti srečni. Pavi se stiskajo ob zgradbi, sprehajalci jih hranijo. Pridem do spomenika. Po drugi svetovni vojni so morali narediti nov odlitek, a ta se ne vidi. Čeprav se pri nobeni zgradbi ne opazi, da je bila na novo zgrajena, mi ne gredo iz glave slike bombardirane Varšave. Nacistična Nemčija jo je sistematično rušila na začetku vojne

in potem še leta 1944 v času varšavske vstaje. Himmler je dejal, da mora biti mesto zrušeno do zadnjega kamna in da naj Wehrmachtu služi zgolj za transportno postojanko. Tudi Rdeča armada se ni izkazala, ko ni preprečila zadnjih razdejanj, čeprav bi jih lahko.

Vračam se v hotel Fryderyk Chopin. Premišljujem o skladateljevi prisotnosti v mestu. Od časa njegovega življenja v Varšavski vojvodini se je veliko zgodilo. In vedno je bil prisoten. Poljaki molijo ob stebru, kjer je njegovo srce, in ob nedeljah poslušajo komponistovo glasbo ob njegovem spomeniku v parku Łazienki. Chopin je bil del varšavskega življenja v socialističnem režimu in preživel bo tudi v času globalizacije in kapitalizma. Sedaj se prodajajo Chopinova vodka, nalivna peresa Mont Blanc z njegovim imenom in še nešteto drugih reči. Razmišljam o besedah Alicije Knast: omenila mi je, da so po drugi svetovni vojni vrteli samo Chopina. Tudi njena generacija ga je zelo dobro poznala. Sama si je zapomnila vse pianiste, ki so nastopali na Chopinovih tekmovanjih. Prepričana je, da ga tudi zdajšnja mladina spet posluša z enakim veseljem, kot ga je sama nekoč.

Več o Chopinovem letu na Poljskem in v svetu: http://en.chopin.nifc.pl/institute/

in www.chopin.pl.

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{ Varšava }

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{ Warsaw }

In the Footsteps of ChopinText: David Šalamun Photography: Arne Hodalič

Winters can be cold in Warsaw. Sub-zero temperatures are joined by a strong wind. The sheets of ice on the river Vistula float slowly towards the Baltic Sea. Even so, the streets are full of people. When I try to follow

Chopin’s footsteps, my ears freeze. There are so many of them: in 2010, in fact, attention in the city is focused on the bicentenary of Chopin’s birth.

I land at Fryderyk Chopin Airport, sleep at the Hotel Fryderyk Chopin and visit the Fryderyk Chopin Institute. Many of the events due to take place in the city this year are closely connected with the Institute, which, in 2001, assumed responsibility for Chopin’s heritage. An important part of this heritage is held by the Fryderyk Chopin Museum.

“We will open the museum on the first of March. On Chopin’s birth-day,” explains Alicija Knast, the curator of the museum. “The museum premises are located in Ostrogski Castle, which was built in the seven-

teenth century. In 1859 the castle was purchased by the Institute of Music, later renamed the Conservatory, which was the successor of the music department at the Royal University of Warsaw. Thanks to private collectors and the Fryderyk Chopin Society, it will be possible to view let-ters, notes and other items from the composer’s life.”

Alicija Knajst talks enthusiastically about everything that is planned for the Chopin Year: “The gala concert at the National Opera will be a very special event. The Opera was the place where Chopin gave the first public performance of his Piano Concerto No 1 in E minor, which was a major triumph. The concert will be broadcast live on radio and television. On that day events will take place in all major European capitals. The two hundredth anniversary of the composer’s birth will also be marked at Expo 2010 in Shanghai. The prestigious International Fryderyk Chopin Piano Competition takes place in October. The majority of concerts will take place at the Warsaw Philharmonic Hall.”

I am invited to visit the Fryderyk Chopin Academy of Music by its Chancellor, Marek Bykowski. As I approach the Academy, I pass Piłsudski

As I walk along Krakowskie Przedmieście, an image of Warsaw in Chopin’s day appears before my eyes.

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{ Warsaw }

{ Warsaw }

Square. The ruins on this great empty square are all that are left to mark the former entrance to the Saxon Palace, destroyed during the Second World War. Chopin’s family once lived in the magnificent palace grounds, when his father taught French in the school that was housed there. The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, dedicated to soldiers killed in the two world wars, stands here today. Despite the fact that the temperature is -10°C, two guards of honour stand motionless beside the tomb. As I walk along Krakowskie Przedmieście, an image of Warsaw in Chopin’s day ap-pears before my eyes. At the age of seven he composed his first two polo-naises. I see the old buildings and all of them have a connection with the great musician. The Royal Castle, the university, and Krasiński Palace, Chopin’s last home before the young and patriotic Pole left his home-land forever when Poland became part of the Russian Empire. He was unable to recognise Russian rule. This was also a time when intellectuals were characterised by a Slavic national spirit imbued with Romanticism. The composer never forgot his homeland. At his last performance in Lon-don in 1848 he played for Polish refugees. After his death on 17 October 1849, his sister Ludwika Jędrzejewicz carried his heart to Poland, thus fulfilling the composer’s last wish. The heart was sealed within a pillar of the Holy Cross Church, just a few metres from the Krasiński Palace. Cho-pin was buried at Père Lachaise Cemetery in Paris.

I am received by the Chancellor of the Academy, Marek Bykowski. He explains that the Academy’s only connection with the composer is that it is the successor of the Warsaw Conservatory from Chopin’s day, and that when the Chopin Piano Competition is held every five years the competi-tors are allowed to practise here.

“Our Academy has however produced two composers who reinter-preted Chopin: Ignacy Jan Paderewski, who was a teacher at the Warsaw Academy, and Jan Ekier, the winner of the Chopin Piano Competition in 1937,” continues Marek Bykowski.

The Academy has students from all over the world. Many of them prac-tise right there in the corridor before their lesson begins. “The building is from the 1960s and is well built. The rooms have excellent soundproof-ing. But it has become too small. Through the window you can also see Ostrogski Castle, which means that the Institute and the museum will be here in the vicinity.”

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names of all the pianists who appeared in the Chopin Piano Competi-tion. She believes that the younger generation listens to him with the same delight that she used to feel. A

For more about the Chopin Year in Poland and around the world, see:

http://en.chopin.nifc.pl/institute/ and www.chopin.pl

Izkoristite ugodno ponudbo! Vabimo vas, da poletite z nami in si ogledate Varšavo.Rezervirajte si enega od naslednjih terminov:10.–11. februar, 16.–18. februar, 3.–4. marec, 17.–18. marecLjubljana–Varšava–LjubljanaCena povratne vozovnice z vsemi pristojbinami znaša le 170 EUR.Pohitite s prijavo, število prostih mest je omejeno.Letališke takse in pristojbine so vključene v ceno. Strošek rezervacije ni vključen.

Take advantage of this exceptional offer! Fly with us and visit Warsaw. Choose one of the following dates: 10–11 February, 16–18 February, 3–4 March, 17–18 MarchLjubljana–Warsaw–LjubljanaA return ticket including all taxes costs just EUR 170.Book now, the number of places is limited.All taxes, fees are included in the price. Reservation Service Fee is not included.

Adria Airways leti na liniji Ljubljana - Varšava štirikrat tedensko.Adria Airways flies between Ljubljana and Warsaw four times a week.

Slowly, I continue on my way. I still want to see the Chopin statue. Un-til 2007 it was the largest Chopin monument in the world. Now that hon-our goes to Shanghai. A replica of the statue stands in the city of Hama-matsu in Japan. Another one is planned for Chicago. En route, I stop at the Łazienki Palace, also known as the Palace on the Water. I pause for a rest. For a moment my thoughts stray from Chopin. Children and grown-ups look happy in the snowy park. Peacocks crowd along the side of the building and the walkers in the park stop to feed them. I reach the statue. After the Second World War a new cast had to be made. You cannot tell. Although none of the buildings show signs of having been rebuilt, I can-not rid my head of images of bomb-destroyed Warsaw. Nazi Germany systematically destroyed the city at the start of the war and then again in 1944 at the time of the Warsaw Uprising. Himmler said that the city was to be razed to the ground, with no stone to remain standing, and that it should serve only as a transport station base for the Wehrmacht. The Red Army did not distinguish itself when it failed to prevent the last acts of destruction, although it could have done.

I return to the Hotel Fryderyk Chopin. I think about the composer’s presence in the city. Much has happened since he lived in the Duchy of Warsaw. And he has always been present. Poles pray by the pillar that contains his heart and, on Sundays, listen to his music by his statue in Łazienki Park. Chopin was part of Warsaw life during the socialist regime and will survive in the age of globalisation and capitalism. These days you can buy Chopin vodka, a Mont Blanc pen bearing his name, and countless other things. I think about the words of Alicija Knast: she told me that after the Second World War they would play Chopin and noth-ing else. Her generation knew him very well. She herself memorised the

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VSRKAVANJE TRUŠČA PO LJUBLJANSKO

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Glasbeno ZanimiVi KotiČKi Ljubljane

Besedilo: Borja Močnik Fotografije: Simon Plestenjak

Ko se v petek ali soboto odpravljamo »ven«, v mesto, naletimo na zanimiv paradoks. Pestrih dogodkov in dobre godbe sicer ne

manjka, a hkrati le stežka na prste ene roke naštejemo »place«, ki nas redno zalagajo z dobrim programom. Kljub temu, da moramo glasbo poslušati na vsakem koraku – na avtobusih, v trgovinah ali celo v dvigalih, pa če naj nam je to všeč ali ne –, nastane zadrega tako pri lokalih kot tudi pri klubih, ki bi ponujali kontinuiteto zvočnih zanimivosti in »odbitosti«.

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{ Ljubljana }

Vse preveč se jih zateka k rešitvam, ki naj bi bile recept za hiter zaslužek, ali pa so najpreprostejše in najcenejše. Le malo jih razume, da kalkuliranje skozi prizmo poslovnosti, kjer je

na prvem mestu dobiček, pač ne prinaša glasbenih presežkov. Po drugi strani pa se, glede na velikost mesta in nerazvitost določenega dela infrastrukture (glasbene knjižnice, delavnice, ploščarne in javno dostopna produkcijska sredstva so prava redkost), nad ponujenim res ne moremo pritoževati; jasno je namreč, da Ljubljančani radi »hodimo ven« in da ponudba sem ter tja vendarle pošteno zadovolji večino glasbenih okusov.

Eden miniaturnejših glasbi prijaznih kotičkov je na Židovski stezi. Bi-ko-fe se lahko pohvali kot eden redkih »kafičev«, ki ima večkrat na teden pester, »nekomercialno« usmerjen didžejevski program; tu di-džeji pogosto še kar z arhaičnih vinilov sučejo druge godbe, funk, jazz in plesno elektroniko. Pomemben člen so tudi natakarji: večina jih je glasbenih zanesenjakov in tako nas pogosto »posiljujejo« z lastnim petičnim in eklektičnim izborom. Študentka Stella, ki v Bikofeju dela že dalj časa, pravi, da »v kafiču, kjer ne bi mogla poslušat svoje muske, sploh ne bi mogla delat«. Trenutki banalno osladne »godbe za kafiče« s kompilacij z idiotskimi naslovi pa so tu prava redkost. Tako lahko pri-de ob jutranji kavi ali večernem pivu do naših ušes kakšen pozabljeni biserček ali pa kakšna novost marginalnih, a intrigantnih glasbenih praks. V preteklosti se je v Bikofeju že zgodil tudi kakšen redek koncert

(ki si ga zaradi prostorske omejenosti le stežka predstavljamo), kar pa je veliko pogostejša oziroma že redna praksa v zloglasnem in morda celo malo manjšem(!) Sax pubu na robu Trnovega, kjer imajo vsaj tako dobro kavo in kjer organizirajo redne in izvrstne, večinoma jazzerske koncerte – in to v prostoru, kamor se lahko nabaše največ trideset ljudi. Sax pub je eden prvih, če ne prav prvi »glasbeni lokal« v mestu sploh, saj obstaja že več kot dvajset let. Je manjši od sanitarnih prostorov ali kadilnice ne-katerih mestnih lokalov, a vendar prav tu prirejajo preverjeno suverene koncerte manjših zasedb, in tako je ta lokal odličen primer in dokaz, da za redne in kakovostne glasbene izkušnje niso potrebne velikanske vsote denarja in široka publika. Do pred kratkim je bil tudi vsak cd, ki jo je mahal v Saxov predvajalnik, skrbno izbran, kritična selekcija pa je v dobi i-podov, na katere lahko spraviš za en teden »bruto muske«, že dinozavrski pojav.

Malo področje z največjo koncentracijo ponudnikov razno(z)vrstne in poglobljene glasbene ponudbe je že nekaj let Metelkova – tam v zadnjem času z obsegom, pestrostjo in atraktivnostjo programa prednjačita Men-

za pri koritu in Gala hala, kjer je posebej udoben njihov letni vrt. V kraj-ših časovnih frekvencah lahko ujamemo ameriške bluesovske legende, srbski novi val distorzije in skandinavske jazzerske posebneže; nekateri lanski Menzini koncerti še danes odmevajo daleč naokrog in tako jim mesto v zgodovini ljubljanskega vsakdanjika ne uide. Gala hala se lahko

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Menza pri koritu

pohvali z rednimi dogodki marginalnih zvrsti, kot sta hiphop in funk, Menza pa predvsem z gostovanji svežih bendov s področja bivše Juge in s področja širšega jazzerskega eksperimentiranja, preizkusite pa lahko tudi njihovo nevarno izbiro duhovito izmišljenih in sumljivih coctailov. Veliki glasbeni zanesenjak mi je rekel, da je »Metelkova najboljše, kar se je zgodilo Ljubljani v glasbenem smislu v zadnjih dvajsetih letih«.

K4 je klub z daleč najdaljšim stažem v mestu. Je še zmeraj prva in edina alternativa večjim prostorom, ki rastejo predvsem v sklopu naku-povalnih središč ob robu mesta, in je edini prostor z vsakotedenskim gayevskim programom. Prednosti »Štirke« so, da se programsko že več

let uspešno upira trendovsko »mainstreamovskim« pritiskom, da ima soliden zvočni sistem in nevzkipljive redarje. K4 je tudi platforma, neka-kšna valilnica za glavnino lokalne didžejevske srenje, saj zvesto podpira mlade upe, večina danes mednarodno uveljavljenih sukalcev plošč pa je začela hrumeti prav v kleti na Kersnikovi. Posebej so iznajdljivi tudi pri vizualijah, saj kljub arhitekturnemu hendikepu nizkih stropov pogosto najdejo inovativne rešitve, ki niso zgolj okrasna tapeta ali dodaten vizu-alni učinek, ampak narativno sklenjena komponenta večinoma levopolj-nih (elektronskih) večerov.

{ Ljubljana }

( 41 )Bi-ko-fe

Zadnja mestna pridobitev, na katero so posebej ponosni v mestni upravi, je Kino Šiška, prva lokalna koncertna dvorana srednje velikosti in projekt, ki je še pred nekaj leti deloval kot nerealno sanjarjenje. Udarili so letos septembra in pokazali resnost z močno serijo raznovrstnih koncertov referenčnih izvajalcev, od rocka, prek jazza vse do eksperimentale – od skupine Mudhoney, prek basista Marcusa Millerja pa vse do raziskovalcev Pan Sonicov. Šiška ima impresivno in funkcionalno, zaenkrat še precej sterilno dvorano, ki je posrečeno prenovljena, saj so ohranili kinodvo-ransko zasnovo. Je pa v Šiški tudi nekaj nenavadnih rešitev: prvo opaziš, ko se ozreš proti stropu, na katerega so vpete velikanske zaloge luči, ki bi povsem zadovoljile marsikatero vesoljsko postajo, in se vprašaš, zakaj tak arsenal luči, če ozvočenje, ki je le nekoliko pomembnejše, ne deluje vedno suvereno. Obiskovalcem neprijazni so tudi plastični kozarci, za katere mo-raš založiti visoko akontacijo, ki je verjetno desetkratna cena samega ko-zarca, in pa dejstvo, da »prešvicane in nagužvane« kolektivne evforije tu že v izhodišču ne moreš pričakovati, saj je kapaciteta prostora za slabih 1500 omejena na 800 obiskovalcev oziroma prodanih kart; in tako je največ, kar se Šiški lahko zgodi, da je »prijetno napolnjena«, nikoli pa ne bo pokala po šivih. S Šiško smo nedvomno dobili manjkajoči člen v mestni infrastruk-turi posrednikov glasbenih dogodkov, prostor srednjega kalibra v sredini med specializiranimi alter publikami in popom za mase, največ pa zaenkrat obljublja širok razpon tamkajšnjega programa.

Vsakemu, ki pa se le pritožuje nad kvaliteto organiziranega hrupa v lju-bljanskih špelunkah, kleteh, dvoranah in barih, priporočam, da preveri sce-no v kakšnem bližnjem, približno enako velikem mestecu, kot je Ljubljana. In Ljubljana bo kar naenkrat idealen kontrapunkt, mala glasbena Meka.

( 42 )Gala hala

{ Interesting musical corners of Ljubljana }

ABSORBING NOISE, LJUBLJANA-STYLEText: Borja Močnik Photography: Simon Plestenjak

When we go “out”, into town, on a Friday or Saturday evening, we come across an interesting paradox. There is no shortage of events and good music, but at the same time

the number of venues that regularly supply us with a good programme can be counted on the fingers of one hand. Despite the fact that we are forced to listen to music at every step – on buses, in shops or even in lifts – whether we like it or not, the difficulty arises when it comes to bars and even clubs offering a continuity of aural delights and craziness. Far too many of them opt for solutions that are supposed to be a recipe

for making money quickly, or are the simplest and cheapest. Very few of them understand that looking at everything through the prism of busi-ness, where profit is the top priority, does not bring musical profits. On the other hand, given the size of the city and the lack of development of a certain part of the infrastructure (music libraries, workshops, record shops and publicly accessible means of production are a rarity), we really cannot complain about the music on offer, since it is clear that people in Ljubljana like to “go out”, and that the majority of musical tastes can ex-pect to be satisfied from time to time.

One of the smaller music-friendly corners is on Židovska Steza. BiKoFe can claim to be one of the few cafés to offer, several times a week, varied, “non-commercial” DJ sets. Here the DJs will often spin old vinyl, dishing up alternative music, funk, jazz and dance/electronica. The bar staff are an im-portant link. Most of them are music fanatics and often “force” their own rich and eclectic selections on us. Stella, a student who has been working at BiKoFe for several years, claims that she wouldn’t be able to work in a café where she couldn’t listen to her own music. Moments of banal, bland “music for cafés” with idiotically titled compilations are thankfully a rarity here. And so, over our morning coffee or evening beer, our ears are treated to some forgotten pearl or new discovery from the intriguing musical mar-gins. BiKoFe has even been known to host the occasional concert (hard to imagine when you see how small the place is), though this is a much more

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{ Ljubljana }

Menza pri koritu

frequent, not to say regular occurrence at the notorious – and perhaps even slightly smaller! – Sax Pub on the edge of Trnovo, where the coffee is at least as good and where they regularly host excellent concerts, mainly jazz, in a room that can hold thirty people at a squeeze. Sax Pub was one of the first “music bars” in the city, perhaps even the very first, given that it opened over twenty years ago. Even though it is smaller than the toilets or the smoking room of some city centre establishments, it hosts wonder-ful concerts by small groups and is an excellent example and proof of the fact that for regular and high-quality musical experiences vast amounts of money and a broad public are not necessary. Until recently every CD that found its way into the Sax Pub stereo was carefully chosen, but in the age of iPods that can hold enough raw music for a week, the idea of a critical selection is as dead as the dinosaurs.

For some years now Metelkova has offered the highest concentra-tion of purveyors of music of a variety of genres in a single small area. Recently, Menza pri Koritu and Gala Hala have been the top venues in the Metelkova complex in terms of scope, variety and attractiveness of programme. The Gala Hala summer garden is a particularly comfortable place to listen to music. At brief intervals we can catch American blues legends, the new wave of distortion from Serbia and original Scandina-vian jazz; some of last year’s Menza concerts are still echoing far and wide today, and thus a place in the history of the everyday life of Ljubljana

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{ Ljubljana }

K4

does not elude them. Gala Hala offers regular events featuring marginal genres such as hip hop and funk, while Menza focuses on performances by new bands from the former Yugoslavia and the broad genre of jazz ex-perimentation. You can also sample their dangerous selection of amus-ingly contrived and suspicious cocktails. A big music fan once told me that “Metelkova is the best thing that has happened to Ljubljana in the musical sense in the last twenty years.”

K4 is by far the longest-serving club in the city. It is still the first and only alternative to the big venues that are springing up in out-of-town shopping centres and the only space with a regular weekly gay pro-gramme. The advantages of K4 are that for several years now it has suc-cessfully resisted trendy “mainstream” pressures, it has a solid sound system and its bouncers are not the irascible sort. K4 is also a spring-board, a kind of hatchery for most of the local DJ community, since it loy-ally supports young hopefuls and the majority of today’s internationally established disc-spinners started out in this basement on Kersnikova. They are also particularly inventive when it comes to visuals, since de-spite the architectural handicap of low ceilings they often come up with innovative solutions that are not merely decorative wallpaper or an ad-ditional visual effect but a narratively coherent component of mainly left-field (electronic) nights.

A recent acquisition of which the city authorities are particularly proud is Kino Šiška, the first medium-sized local concert venue and a project which even just a few years ago seemed like an impossible dream. It became a reality this September, and immediately demonstrated its se-riousness with a strong and diverse series of concerts by notable artists

from various genres – from alt-rockers Mudhoney to jazz bassist Marcus Miller and experimental electronic duo Pan Sonic. Šiška has an impres-sive and functional hall, although for the moment it is still somewhat sterile. The renovation works well because they have retained the original cinema auditorium design. On the other hand, they have also adopted a number of unusual solutions. The first thing you notice when you look up at the ceiling are the giant banks of lights that would be more than ad-equate for many a space station, while at the same time you wonder why the PA does not always seem to work properly. Other negative aspects are the plastic glasses, for which you have to pay a deposit that is probably ten times what the glass is worth, and the fact that you know that you cannot expect sweaty and crowded collective euphoria because the hall holds just under 1,500 people but tickets are limited to 800. And so the most that can happen to Šiška is that it is “pleasantly full”. Never burst-ing at the seams. There is no doubt, however, that Šiška is the missing link in the city’s infrastructure of musical events, a medium-sized venue in the middle ground between specialist alternative audiences and pop for the masses. For the moment it promises a broadly varied programme.

To everyone who complains about the quality of organised noise in Ljubljana’s dives, cellars, halls and bars, I recommend that they check out the scene in any nearby city of roughly the same size as Ljubljana. And Ljubljana will suddenly seem like the ideal contrast, a little musical Mecca. A

www.visitljubljana.si

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BELA KRAJINA –zelo osebno

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Besedilo: Zlatko Zajc Fotografije: Janez Bogataj

BELA KRAJINA –zelo osebno

Pred ducatom let se mi je nekega julijskega večera odprl pogled na pokrajino, ki je vstopala v prihajajoče sanje. Prepešačil sem že tihe steze Gorjancev, pil vodo iz izvira Gospodične, mislil na Trdino in na koščke bajk, ki so ostali v spominu. Prespal sem tisto noč na seniku,

še prej so me domačini gostili, saj je bil za vsemi dolg in vroč dan. Rosno poletno jutro je bilo ena sama blagodejnost in korakal sem po prazni gozdni cesti, tja k izviru Krupe. Majhne vasice, hiške postavljene skoraj varčno, tesno skupaj. Takšne so vse belokranjske vasi in vasice in med njimi je, vedno in povsod, nekaj prostranstev čiste pokrajine.

Pred ducatom let se mi je nekega julijskega večera odprl pogled na pokrajino, ki je vstopala v prihajajoče sanje. Prepešačil sem že tihe steze Gorjancev, pil vodo iz izvira Gospodične, mislil na Trdino in na koščke bajk, ki so ostali v spominu. Prespal sem tisto noč na seniku,

še prej so me domačini gostili, saj je bil za vsemi dolg in vroč dan. Rosno poletno jutro je bilo ena sama blagodejnost in korakal sem po prazni gozdni cesti, tja k izviru Krupe. Majhne vasice, hiške postavljene skoraj varčno, tesno skupaj. Takšne so vse belokranjske vasi in vasice in med njimi je, vedno in povsod, nekaj prostranstev čiste pokrajine.

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{ Bela krajina }

Stopal sem skozi redek in razvlečen gozd in največ je bilo brez, pa potem hrastov in topolov. Oči so se utapljale v prelivajočem zelenilu, ki se je razprševalo v mnogih odtenkih. Bil sem z nahrbtnikom otovorjen mravljinec, ki ga je pokrajina sprejela

vase. Prvo poletno jutro v Beli krajini je bilo začetek globoke naklonje-nosti, ta pa se je po nekaj dnevih spremenila v ljubezen, ki je imela tudi obdobja nerazsodne obsedenosti. V mehkih nočeh, ki so sledile, ni bilo treba mnogo domišljije, da sem skorajda razločno videl sloke sence ple-šočih belih vil v meglicah, ki so se dvigovale nad logi. Po poteh, po kate-rih sem stopal, sem našel nekakšno bližnjico do poganstva. Najbrž tudi pokrajina sooblikuje človekov značaj in v Beli že stoletja v miru prebiva in sobiva nekaj različnih veroizpovedi. V 2000 letih se tudi Mitreja ni lo-til nihče drug kot časa zob. Verska strpnost, ki ima sicer nepregledno, a jasno povezavo s sanjavimi in slikovitimi vodami, najbolj tihimi draga-mi, logi in bruhajočimi obrhi, steljniki (postelja), neskončnimi lozami, in še vinska trta bohotno raste. Spraševal sem se, koliko sta se v tisočle-tjih spremenila občutek in okus za lepoto. Ali so ljudstva, ki so izginila v prahu časa, tudi gledala na mogočen izvir Krupe kot na nadnaravno lepoto, ali so jim okljuki Lahinje pomenili le varnost ali pa so se prepro-sto ustavili in se naselili, ker jih je prevzela lepota narave, ki se je v ne-katerih kotičkih zgostila do robov znosnosti. Preprost in neuk človek iz preteklosti, ki je poseljeval Krajino, je še bolj častil nerazumljivo lepoto.

Svetišča so postavljena na vozle zemljine občutljivosti, ki so raztreseni po Beli; plasti svetišč na svetih krajih pa govorijo o minljivosti človeka.

Razgiban kraški svet z vsemi spremljajočimi pojavi, ki ga oblizujejo žgoči vetrovi stepskih poletij in tudi mraz zna pripotovati daleč preko ravnic. Na severu je tam hrbet Gorjancev, na zahodu pa kočevska planota, ki se začne v mraku obnašati, kot bi bila oddaljen gorski masiv – zbiralnik vseh svežih voda, ki privrejo ob njenem vznožju na svetlo. Čiste, hladne, sveže in okusne so te vode, ki se šele kasneje, ko so že potoki in rečice, vijugajo preko polj, gozdov in logov, kakor da se jim zares nikamor ne mudi, in so struge hladnih voda speljane igrivo, kot bi se mlade mačke igrale s temno zeleno vrvico. Nad vodami v poletju lebdijo sanje o brezčasnosti. Ležati pod enim izmed mnogih jezov na topli Kolpi tja v pozno poletno popoldne in globoko vdihovati zrak, prešpikan s pršci vode, in – ne le v nosu, v glavi ostane vonj sveže dekliške kože – tako diši Kolpa v visokem poletju. Vedno prezgodnja jesen pa vonju vode dodaja še poljubne ščepce grenko sladkih vonjev padajočega listja in preplavljajočo žalost, ki zagrinja dušo, nase opozarjajo klini gagajočih gosi visoko na večernem nebu, jate ptic se selijo tja čez na topli jug. O bogatem ptičjem življu se lahko prepriča slehernik, še najbolj do bistva našega pa zarežejo majske noči, ki so do ganljivosti polne petja zaljubljenih slavcev. Lena in počasna Lahinja, ki se lahko po hladnosti in bistrosti v zgornjem toku primerja z mrzlimi

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{ Bela krajina }

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{ Bela krajina }

gorskimi vodami, pa včasih kar tako za šalo poplavlja in širne in poraščene loge spreminja v plitva in topla jezera, ki se le počasi umikajo nazaj v varno strugo. Jezerca se bleščijo in odsevajo, tako da pozabljaš, kaj je zgoraj in kaj spodaj in kdo je komu zrcalo. Neomadeževanost pokrajine pa zapušča v obiskovalcu občutek pradomačnosti, kot bi se vrnil v ostanke skupne slovanskosti; odslikave, vtisi, slike in vonji so le potrditev popotniku in njegovim potlačenim sanjam.

Grad na Krupi je baje gorel 40 dni in noči in navkljub kriminalni svinjariji s PCB-jem v reki že živijo polžki in žabe; pobreški grad je bil velik kot majhen trg, Rosalnice in Tri fare so preživele in so še danes veličastne, grad v Gradcu tuli od boleče praznine. Pritoki, ki obilo napajajo Lahinjo, so vsak zase svet, skrbno negovani vinogradi Drašičev, Damelj z baronom Žagarjem in Suho drago gor proti Sinjemu vrhu in najstarejše trte v Beli, ki so uš preživele … Vsaka vas je majhen svet zase in vsako življenje je enako pomembno, in tudi če ni tako in se ne da nič narediti, pa ostanejo duri v naravo vedno odprte in za neuživanje narave ni nobenega izgovora. Pred časom se mi je posvetilo, da sveta ne bom mogel spoznati, a upam, da bom vsaj malo spoznal, doživel in razumel mali svet, ki sem si ga izbral, ki me je izbral, še tega ne vem, kdo je koga. Krajina je odprta zakladnica, iz nje si lahko postreže vsakdo, ki ga zanimajo živali, rastline, vode, tihe loze, zaraščajoči travniki ali pa zgolj vonji v različnih letnih časih. Edini vložek je lastni čas, ki se ga kakor

darilo polaga na oltarčke različnih spoznanj. Potešeni bodo vsi tisti, v katerih močneje utripa žilica, ki nas sili k novim doživljajem. Bela ne bo razočarala nikogar in jo lahko mirne duše priporočam: etnologom in filologom, ornitologi ali le opazovalci bodo uživali, zoologi in botaniki, zgodovinarji in športniki, fotografi in enologi, sadjarji, kmetje in mestni izkoreninjenci, arheologi in potapljači, kolesarji in kanuisti, ribiči in seveda lovci, stari in manj stari, za vsakogar z odprtimi čutili se najde lep kos pogače.

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Nad vodami v poletju lebdijosanje o brezčasnosti.

{ Bela krajina }

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{ Bela krajina }

BELA KRAJINAA Very Personal ViewText: Zlatko Zajc Photography: Janez Bogataj

One July evening a dozen or so years ago, a view opened up to me of a landscape that seemed to lead into a dream. I was walking the quiet paths of the Gorjanci Hills, drink-ing water from the source of the Gospodična, and thinking

about Trdina and the fragments of tales that remained in my memory. I slept that night in a hayloft, after some friendly locals had treated me to food and drink – for after all it had been a long, hot day. The dewy sum-mer morning was a blessing and I strode along the empty forest road to-wards the source of the river Krupa. Little villages, with their little houses huddled closely together. All the villages and hamlets of Bela Krajina are like this. And between them, always and everywhere, tracts of pure coun-tryside. I walked through a long, thin wood that was mostly birches and then oaks and poplars. My eyes drowned in a sea of green that fragment-ed into many different shades. I was a rucksack-laden ant that the land-scape accepted into itself. That first summer’s morning in Bela Krajina was the start of a deep affection that within a few days had become love: a love that also included periods of imprudent obsession. In the mild nights that followed, it did not take much imagination for me to be able to discern the slender shadows of white fairies dancing in the mists that rose above the groves. On the paths along which I walked I found a kind of shortcut to paganism. It may be that the landscape shapes a person’s character, and in Bela Krajina a number of different religious beliefs have existed and coexisted in peace for centuries. In 2,000 years even Mithra has gone unchallenged, except by the hand of time. A religious tolerance which has a complex yet clear connection with dreamy and picturesque waters, the quietest dells, groves and gushing springs, straw for sleeping on, endless woods and even exuberantly growing vines. I wondered how much the feeling and taste for beauty has changed over the millennia. Did the peoples who have disappeared in the dust of time also view the powerful source of the Krupa as a supernatural beauty, did the bends of the Lahinja merely represent security, or did they simply stop and settle because they were entranced by the beauty of nature, so intense in some places as to be almost unendurable? The simple and unlettered people who settled Bela Krajina in the past revered incomprehensible beauty even more strongly. Their temples are built on the nodes of the earth’s sensitivity that are scattered throughout the region; the layers of temples in holy places tell of the transitoriness of human beings.

The uneven karst terrain, with all the accompanying karst phenom-ena, licked by the torrid summer winds of the steppe region. Even the cold can travel far over the plains. In the north lies the ridge of the Gorjanci Hills; in the west is the Kočevje Plateau, which at dusk starts to behave as though it were a distant mountain massif, a reservoir for all the fresh waters that come rushing to the surface at its foot. Clean, cool, fresh and delicious are these waters, which later, when they have become streams and little rivers, wind unhurriedly across the fields and through the forests and groves. The channels of cool water meander playfully, as though kittens were playing with a dark green string. In summer, dreams of timelessness float above the waters. To lie below one of the many weirs on the warm Kolpa on a late summer afternoon and breathe the spray-filled air: the smell of fresh girlish skin remains not just in your nose but in your head. This is what the Kolpa smells like in high summer. The autumn, which always comes too soon, adds to this scent the bittersweet smells of falling leaves and an overwhelming melancholy that veils the soul. Skeins of geese high in the evening sky draw attention to themselves with their cries. Flocks of birds migrat-ing to the warm south. The abundance of the bird population is evi-

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lage is a little world unto itself and every life is equally important, and even if this is not the case and there is nothing to be done, the door to nature always remains open and there is no excuse for not enjoying it. Some time ago it occurred to me that I will never be able to know the whole world, but I hope that I will get to know, experience and under-stand – at least in part – the little world I have chosen for myself, or which has chosen me. I am no longer even sure who chose whom. Bela Krajina is an open treasure house that offers something to everyone who is interested in animals, plants, water, quiet forests, lush meadows or merely the different scents in the air in the different seasons of the year. The only investment is your own time, which is deposited like a gift on the little altars of different knowledge. Everyone in whom that vein that drives us on to new experiences pulses more strongly will find satisfaction here. Bela Krajina will disappoint no-one and I can recom-mend it without reservation to: ethnologists and philologists, ornithol-ogists (or even mere birdwatchers), biologists and botanists, historians and athletes, photographers and oenologists, fruit growers, farmers and the urban uprooted, archaeologists and divers, cyclists and canoeists, anglers and of course hunters, the old and the less old. A generous slice of the pie can be found for all whose senses are open. A

dent to all, but it is May nights filled with the singing of nightingales that speak most profoundly to our essence. The slow and lazy Lahinja, whose upper reaches are as cold and clear as an icy mountain stream, sometimes floods – as though in jest – and transforms the broad green groves into shallow, warm lakes from which the water is slow to recede into its proper channel. The little lakes glisten and reflect, so that you forget what is above and what is below, and who is a mirror to whom. The immaculateness of the landscape leaves the visitor with a strange feeling of familiarity, like a return to the remnants of a common Slav origin. Images, impressions, pictures and smells are merely a confirma-tion for the traveller and his downtrodden dreams.

It is said that Krupa Castle burnt for 40 days and nights. Despite the criminal pollution with PCBs, the river is still home to snails and frogs. Pobrežje Castle was as big as a small market town. Rosalnice and Tri Fare have survived and are still magnificent today. The castle at Gradec bewails its painful emptiness. Each of the streams that feed the Lahinja is a world unto itself. The carefully tended vineyards of Drašiči, Damelj with Baron Žagar and Suha Draga up towards Sinji Vrh and the oldest vines in Bela Krajina, survivors of the phylloxera epidemic… Every vil-

In summer, dreams of timelessness float above

the waters.

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Dolenjska

Besedilo: Marjan Žiberna Fotografije: Boštjan Pucelj

Nežne steklene kroglice so ena od velikih najdb na Dolenjskem; nikjer drugje na svetu ni bilo najdenih toliko mojstrsko oblikovanih steklenih kroglic in še drugače oblikovanega stekla iz hal-štatskih časov kot prav tu. Ženske so bile očitno tudi v tedanji lepo patriarhalno urejeni družbi,

ki jim je predpisovala predvsem sukanje okrog ognjišča, preslic in statev, rade lepe; diamanti so bili pač od nekdaj najboljši prijatelji deklet …

starejše železne dobe, obdobja, ki je trajalo od 8. do 4. stoletja pred našim štetjem. Prav bogata površinska najdišča kakovostne železove rude so omogočala bogastvo tedanjih Dolenjcev, domnevno Ilirom sorodnih ljudstev. Iz rude, ki so jo talili v sorazmerno preprostih, a že dovolj učinkovitih pečeh, so pridobivali železo, iz katerega so sami izdelovali različno orodje, orožje, okrasje in dele noše, ter s temi izdelki in tudi z neobdelanim železom živahno trgovali.

Najdbe predmetov, ki so bili narejeni daleč stran, pričajo o razviti trgovini: na Dolenjskem so bili tako denimo najdeni lončeni vinski vrči iz grško-sredozemskega prostora, bronasti trinožni kotlički, delo Etruščanov, tedanjih prebivalcev dela današnje Italije, konjske žvale Skitov, živečih v vzhodnoevropskih stepah, in številne jantarne jagode, ki so prišle sem z obal Baltika.

Stari Dolenjci so steklo pridobivali iz kremenovega peska, ki ga tu ni manjkalo, ga z naravnimi oksidi železa, kobalta, manga-na, antimona in bakra različno obarvali ter ga še drugače krasi-li, iz njega pa se je izdelovalo med ženskami bogatega sloja zelo

cenjeno okrasje. Spretno oblikovane kroglice različnih barv so nizali na vrvice, izdelane iz lana, volne in konjske žime, ali na usnjene jermene in nastajale so osupljivo lepe raznobarvne ogrlice. Ker tedanji mojstri niso znali obarvati stekla rdečkasto, je bil jantar, okamenela smola iglavcev, ki so jo na Dolenjsko prinašali trgovci s severnih obal, zelo cenjen; z njim so dobile ogrlice svojo očarljivo živopisanost.

A stekleni nakit je le ena izmed številnih pripovedi, ki jih odkrivajo arheologi v tem delu Slovenije.

Dolenjska je zelo bogata zlasti z najdbami ostankov njenih prebivalcev iz prvega tisočletja pred našim štetjem, natančneje iz časa

Cvetočihalštat

Dolenjske( 55 )

{ Dolenjska }

Dolenjska je bila v starejši železni dobi pomembnejša kot kdajkoli prej in pozneje. Rudno bogastvo je namreč omogočalo bogatenje in tudi razslojevanje tedanje družbe; izoblikoval se je bogati, tako imenovani knežji del družbe, ki je v svojih rokah združeval gospodarsko, politično, vojaško, kulturno in duhovno moč. Dvorno življenje je najbogatejšim omogočalo tudi prirejanje športnih in drugih tekmovanj ter lov in ribolov; s temi stvarmi se revnejši sloji, kmetje, ki so se preživljali s poljedelstvom in živinorejo, niso ukvarjali. Obstajajo tudi dokazi o živahnih banketih; očitno so bili Dolenjci že takrat zelo radožive narave. Veliko je upodobitev zabav, kjer se je ob zvokih lir in piščali živahno plesalo in kjer so ženske gostom z zajemalkami ponujale pijačo. Kot kaže, v situlah, ki so jih imele v rokah, ni šlo za kakšno predhodnico kokakole, pač pa bolj verjetno cvička, žganja ali kakšne podobne pijače, ki je pognala zabavajočim se veselje v ude, da so se še bolj zaneseno sukali.

Halštatski prebivalci Dolenjske so večinoma živeli v višinskih naseljih, t. i. gradiščih – z debelimi zidovi obdanih naseljih na vzpetinah. Na pobočjih pod gradišči in v okolici so njihovi prebivalci pokopavali svoje mrtve v velike gomile, do pet metrov visoke kupe zemlje s premerom do trideset metrov. Grobove so vkopali v pobočja teh gomil, ki so jih sami nasuli in so služile svojemu namenu več stoletij. Prav najdbe iz grobov so za današnje védenje o dolenjskih staroselcih najpomembnejše. Agresivna, kisla dolenjska zemlja je namreč uničila

skoraj vse organske ostanke iz gradišč (les, tkanino, usnje ...), njihova obzidja, peči za taljenje železa in druga arhitektura pa so tudi močno klonili pod zobom časa, kar arheologom otežuje sestavljanje mozaika življenj tedanjih ljudi. Njihova verovanja pa so pripomogla, da danes o njih največ vemo iz njihovih poslednjih prebivališč. Verjeli so, da pomeni smrt samo prehod v onostranstvo, kjer bo pokojnik živel tako, kot je živel v tostranstvu. Zato so svoje bližnje pokopavali z najboljšim, kar so ti premogli. Tako so dolenjski halštatski grobovi, kjer so se ostanki okostij ohranili le izjemoma, prave arheološke zakladnice, ki pričajo o moči tedanjega bogatega sloja, pa tudi o življenju manj imenitnih ljudi. Tako denimo danes med drugim vemo, da so določene ženske, svečenice, v tedanji družbi uživale poseben ugled, da so bile običajne ženske – morda pa tudi moški – precej odimljene, saj koče, kjer so se verjetno pogosto zadrževale, dimnikov najbrž niso imele … Ali so imeli na Dolenjskem v teh cvetočih časih tudi sužnje, kar so drugod vojni ujetniki v tistih časih dokazano velikokrat postali, pa ni mogoče z gotovostjo trditi. Vemo pa, da je bilo tedaj z vlado topoglavih sinov, ki so kasneje kljub svoji nesposobnosti podedovali položaj svojih prednikov, navadnim ljudem še prizaneseno; oblast tedaj še ni bila dedna.

Na Marofu, vzpetini, ki se dviga nad starim mestnim jedrom Novega mesta, kjer je bilo nekoč bogato gradišče, potekajo izkopavanja že vse od leta 1890. V zadnjih 25 letih, ko so še posebno intenzivna, tukajšnje najdbe

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{ Dolenjska }

{ Dolenjska }

vedno znova presenečajo. Arheologi pod vodstvom Boruta Križa, kustosa v Dolenjskem muzeju v Novem mestu in avtorja več arheoloških knjig, tudi poljudnih, vsako leto odkrivajo nove in nove predmete, ki pričajo o davno minulih časih. Prav posebno mesto zavzemajo situle, iz brona izdelane posode v obliki veder. Njihovo bogato figuralno okrasje govori o tem, da so bili tedanji novomeški mojstri torevtike (tehnike obdelovanja kovine z vrezovanjem in tolčenjem) ne samo vrhunski obrtniki, pač pa tudi umetniki. Zato danes Novemu mestu pravijo tudi mesto situl, Dolenjska nasploh pa velja za deželo teh nekdaj dragocenih posod.

Na situlah so vidni prizori iz tedanjega realnega življenja kot tudi mitološki prizori iz sfer božanstev. Glede tega, kaj sodi v realnost in kaj med mite, si arheologi niso enotni. Vsekakor pa je danes o življenju v železni dobi, iz katere ni na voljo pisnih virov, veliko znano prav iz natančno izdelanih podob na situlah. Žal pa brona in na njem upodobljenih živali – konjev, jelenov, psov, kozlov in drugega bolj ali manj veličastnega živalstva … – ni prizadel le zob časa, pač pa so arheologi ugotovili, da je izjemno halštatsko zapuščino uničevala celo neugledna poljska miš, ki si je napravila gnezdo kar v eni od situl ... Kakorkoli že, bogastvo dolenjskih arheoloških odkritij je mnoge raziskovalce evropske preteklosti tako osupnilo, da so čas starejše železne dobe poimenovali kar 'cvetoči halštat Dolenjske', saj je bilo območje današnjega Novega mesta, kot kažejo najdbe, verjetno eno pomembnejših evropskih središč tedanjega časa.

Številne najdbe z arheoloških najdišč na Marofu in tudi z ostale Dolenjske so danes shranjene v novomeškem muzeju, ki je junija 2008 odprl prenovljeno in razširjeno stalno arheološko razstavo. Tu so razstavljeni mnogi edinstveni predmeti, med katerimi velja vsaj omeniti na podoben način kot okrasje situl okrašen pas. Gre za upogljiv, približno 130 centimetrov dolg pas iz tanke bronaste pločevine, na katerem so po vsej dolžini spretno izdelane različne upodobitve. Med njimi izstopata zlasti prikaz spolnega odnosa in upodobitev dveh moških z ribo v mreži. Prikaz spolnega akta se s katerim od vratolomnih položajev nekaj stoletij mlajše Kamasutre sicer ne more ravno primerjati; kaže pa, da so z upodobitvami teh realnosti v zahodnem svetu tedaj imeli manj težav kot kasneje, ko je življenje ljudi vzela v svoje roke krščanska cerkev. Ribiški prizor pa kaže, da je bila Krka že v pradavnini z ribami bogata reka. Tako kot danes, ko denimo prihajajo sem pozimi na lov na trofejne sulce številni tujci – Avstrijci, Italijani, Nemci … A to je že druga zgodba, ta pa z nekdanjimi prebivalci Dolenjske, ki so se sicer z ribolovom prav tako ukvarjali in tudi imeli bogate stike z različnimi drugimi ljudstvi svojega časa, nima prav veliko skupnega.

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{ Dolenjska }

{ Dolenjska }

The Flourishing Hallstattof DolenjskaText: Marjan Žiberna Photography: Boštjan Pucelj

Delicate glass beads are one of the great finds in the Dolenjska region; nowhere else in the world have so many masterfully shaped glass beads (and glass in other forms) from the Hallstatt

period been found. Even in that firmly patriarchal soci-ety, in which the main role assigned to them in-volved them sitting round the hearth with spindles and looms, women evidently liked to be beautiful; diamonds have always been a girl’s best friend…

The old inhabitants of Do-lenjska obtained glass from quartz sand, of which there was no shortage in the area. They coloured it with natural oxides of iron, cobalt, manganese, anti-mony and copper and decorated it in other ways, and from it they made ornaments that were extremely highly prized among women from the wealthy stratum of society. The skilfully wrought beads of various colours were threaded onto strings made of flax, wool or horsehair, or onto leather straps, thus creating aston-ishingly beautiful varicoloured necklaces. Since the master craftsmen of the day did not know how to colour glass red, amber was highly prized. Amber, the fossilised resin of conifers, was brought to Dolenjska by traders from the northern shores and it gave the necklaces their enchanting multi-coloured appearance.

But glass jewellery is just one of the many narratives uncovered by archaeologists in this part of Slovenia.

Dolenjska is very rich in archaeological finds, particularly in relics of its inhabitants from the first millennium BC, more precisely from the Early Iron Age, a period which lasted from the 8th century BC to the 4th century BC. It was the rich surface deposits of high-quality iron ore that

provided the wealth of Dolenjska’s inhabitants, believed to be related to the Illyrians. From the ore, which they smelted in relatively simple but adequate kilns, they obtained iron, from which they themselves made various tools, weapons, ornaments and parts of costumes. They also en-gaged in brisk trade in these items and in unworked iron.

Finds of artefacts made far away are evidence of the highly developed trade that flourished in the area: among the finds in Dolenjska are ce-ramic wine jugs made in the Greek Mediterranean, bronze three-legged kettles, the work of the Etruscans who then inhabited part of present-day Italy, horse bits made by Scythians from the steppes of eastern Eu-rope, and numerous amber beads from the shores of the Baltic.

Dolenjska was more important in the Early Iron Age then ever before or since. Its mineral wealth brought riches to society, and also divi-

sions: a rich “princely” class developed, holding economic, political, military, cultural and spiritual power. Court

life allowed the richest members of society to engage in sports and other competitions and indulge in hunting and fishing, activities in which the poorer

classes, peasants whose livelihood was agricul-ture and livestock farming, did not partake.

Evidence also exists of lively banquets; apparently even in those days the

people of Dolenjska were jovial by nature. There are many depic-

tions of festivities where people danced to the sounds of lyres and flutes, and where women

served drinks to the guests with ladles. It would appear

that the situlae they are depicted as holding did not contain some predecessor of Coca-Cola. They are

more likely to have contained wine, brandy or some other beverage that

filled the limbs of the party-goers with joy, making them spin round with even

more enthusiasm. The inhabitants of Dolenjska in the Hall-

statt period lived for the most part in hill set-tlements known as forts – settlements built

on elevations and surrounded by thick walls. On the slopes below the forts, and in the sur-

rounding area, their inhabitants buried their dead in great mounds up to five metres high, and with a

diameter of up to thirty metres. They dug the graves in the slopes of these mounds, which they filled in themselves and which served their purpose for several centuries. Finds from graves are in fact the most important source of our knowledge about the original inhab-itants of Dolenjska. The region’s aggressive, acidic soil has destroyed almost all organic remains from the forts (wood, cloth, leather, etc.), while their walls, the kilns for smelting iron and other architectural ele-

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{ Dolenjska }

{ Dolenjska }

ments have also succumbed to the ravages of time, which makes it more difficult for archaeologists to piece together the mosaic of the lives of these people. Thanks to their religious beliefs, most of what we know about them today comes from their final resting-places. They believed that death was merely a passing to the other side, where the deceased person would live just as he had in this world. This is why they buried their family members with their finest possessions. For this reason, the Hallstatt graves of Dolenjska, where very few remains of skeletons sur-vive, are veritable archaeological treasure-houses, telling of the power of the richer classes but also of the lives of less eminent people., Today we know, for example, that certain women, priestesses, enjoyed par-ticular prestige in society, that ordinary women – and perhaps also men – were rather smoke-stained, since the huts in which they presumably spent a lot of time probably did not have chimneys, and so on. Whether people in the Dolenjska of those prosperous days also had slaves – else-where prisoners of war often became slaves – cannot be claimed with certainty. We do know, however, that the common people were still spared the rule of idiot sons – who in later societies would inherit the position of their ancestors despite their own incapacity; power in those days was not yet hereditary.

On Marof, the hill rising behind Novo Mesto’s old town centre which was once the site of a rich fort, archaeological digs have been taking

place since 1890. They have been particularly intensive in the last 25 years and a series of surprising finds have been unearthed. Every year, the archaeologists led by Borut Križ, a curator at the Dolenjska Museum in Novo Mesto and the author of several books on archaeology, includ-ing some for a general readership, discover new objects that tell us about times long past. A very special place is occupied by situlae, bronze vessels in the shape of a bucket. Their rich figural decoration is proof that Novo Mesto’s masters of toreutics (the art of working metal by engraving and hammering) were not only highly skilled craftsmen but also artists. This is why Novo Mesto is today sometimes referred to as the “city of situlae”, and Dolenjska in general is considered the home of these valuable vessels.

Situlae show scenes from real life and also mythological scenes from the spheres of the divinities. Archaeologists do not always agree about what belongs to reality and what to myth. Be that as it may, the careful-ly wrought images on situlae tell us much about life in the Iron Age, for which no written sources are available. Unfortunately, the bronze and the creatures depicted on it – horses, deer, dogs, goats and other more or less majestic fauna – have not only been affected by the passage of time: archaeologists have in fact established that the extraordinary Hallstatt legacy has even been ravaged by a humble fieldmouse, which made a home for itself and its young in one of the situlae. Nevertheless, the

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wealth of archaeological discoveries in Dolenjska have so astonished many researchers of Europe’s past that they refer to this part of the Early Iron Age as “the flourishing Hallstatt of Dolenjska”. The artefacts unearthed to date demonstrate that the area of present-day Novo Mesto was probably one of more important European centres of that time.

Many finds from the archaeological digs on Marof and other parts of Dolenjska are today kept in Novo Mesto’s museum, which in June 2008 opened its renovated and expanded permanent archaeology exhibition. The items on display include many unique objects, including a belt decorated in a similar way to the situlae mentioned earlier. This belt, ap-proximately 130 centimetres long and made from a thin sheet of bronze, is decorated along its entire length with skilfully executed depictions of various scenes. Particularly notable are a scene depicting sexual inter-course and a depiction of two men with a fish in a net. The depiction of the sex act may not compare to the back-breaking positions in the Kama Sutra, some centuries younger, but it does show that the Western world had fewer problems with depictions of these realities than became the case a good thousand years later when the Church took matters into its hands. The fishing scene, on the other hand, shows that the river Krka was well stocked with fish even in prehistoric times. Just like today, when large numbers of foreign anglers – Austrians, Italians, Germans – come here in winter to fish for trophy Danube salmon (Hucho hucho)... But that is another story, and one that does not have much to do with the former inhabitants of Dolenjska, although they too were fishermen and they too had abundant contacts with various other peoples of the age. A

Dolenjski muzej Novo mesto / Dolenjska Museum Novo MestoMuzejska ulica 7

8000 Novo mesto

tel. +386 (0) 7 373 11 30

e-pošta/e-mail: dolenjski.muzej@guest.arnes.si

www.dolmuzej.com

Odpiralni čas: Opening hours:

od torka do sobote: 9.00 - 17.00 ure Tue-Sat: 9.00 am to 5.00 pm

v nedeljo: 9.00 - 13.00 ure Sun: 9.00 am to 1.00 pm

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Zim

ske o

limpi

jske i

gre

The W

inte

r O

lym

pics

Zim

ske o

limpi

jske i

gre

The W

inte

r O

lym

pics

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Fotografije: arhiv Fakultete za šport in arhiv Muzeja športa

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{ Zimske olimpijske igre }

Med številom poletnih in zimskih olimpijskih iger je razlika. V Pekingu so potekale XXIX.,

v Vancouvru pa bodo XXI. igre, ker so se tekmovanja v zimskih športih kot samostojna

olimpijska tekmovanja oblikovala več kot dve desetletji po začetku modernih olimpijskih

iger. Prvič so olimpijsko tekmo v zimskem športu organizirali v Londonu leta 1908, in sicer v umetno-

stnem drsanju. Leta 1920 so v belgijskem Antwerpnu nastopili že drsalci in hokejisti. Tekmovanja na ledu

so bila organizirana nekaj mesecev pred poletnimi tekmovanji in so sodila pod skupno

streho antverpenskih olimpijskih iger.

Zimskošportni tedenv Chamonixu,

začetek zimskih olimpijskih igerBesedilo: Tomaž Pavlin

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{ Zimske olimpijske igre }

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{ Zimske olimpijske igre }

Kaj pa smučanje? Ko so bili Švedi organizatorji olimpijskih iger leta 1912 v Stockholmu, so želeli v program vključiti smučarske tekme, a so naleteli na nasprotovanje, češ da so to regionalna tekmovanja. Skandinavci so namreč že od leta 1900 vsaka štiri

leta prirejali t. i. nordijske tekme (igre); sodelovali so Norvežani, Švedi in Danci. S širitvijo zimskih športov po Evropi, zlasti smučanja, so se nor-dijskih tekem udeleževali tudi drugi Evropejci in ti so pozneje prevzeli zimskošportno pobudo ter trkali na olimpijska vrata, medtem ko so Skandinavci ljubosumno čuvali nordijske tekme tako kot samo smuča-nje, ki naj bi bilo njihov izum, tradicija in športna inovacija: prva smučarska tekmovanja so npr. vezana na norveško pokrajino Telemark (1879). S širitvijo smučk in smučanja v alpsko Evropo se oblikujeta dva smučarska pola in vse bolj tudi dva tipa smučk in smuča-nja: nordijsko in alpsko. Oba vsebujeta tek, spust in skok, vendar se je v okviru drugega, prilagojenega alpskemu svetu, vse bolj uveljavljal spust ali smuk; prva alpska tekmovanja beležimo v švicarski Crans Montani leta 1911. Švica je bila poleg tega tudi prizorišče san-kaških tekem, pa najsi je šlo za klasično sankanje, bob ali skeleton. Dejansko imata bob in skeleton skupne korenine v tradicionalnih švicarskih saneh, kot športa pa sta vezana na razvoj zimskega turizma v Alpah ter avantur željne angle-ške turiste, ki so 'pogruntali' drznejše in hitrejše sanke ter tekmovali. Za potrebe novega sankanja, ki je preraslo v šport, je bila že sredi osemdesetih let 19. stoletja urejena sanka-ška proga Cresta Run pri St. Moritzu, ki si je pridobila sloves edinstvene in prestižne bob proge. Turizem je bil vse pomembnejši faktor v širjenju zimskih športov. Podoben primer lahko zasledimo pri nas doma, ko se je pred prvo svetovno vojno oblikoval kot zimskoturistični center Bohinjska Bistrica, naš Davos, so včasih rekli. Železniška proga jo je povezala tako s kranjskim kot skozi bohinjski predor z goriško-tržaškim zaledjem in turi-sti, željni sprostitve, so prihajali sankat, smučat in tudi drsat. Za njihove

potrebe je bila v letih pred prvo vojno urejena sankaška proga Belvedere, prav tako pa so bila organizirana smučarska tekmovanja, ki so privabila smučarske ljubitelje in znalce. Zimske športe so prevzemali tudi domači-ni, ki so bili hitro v vrstah športnikov.

V Mednarodnem olimpijskem komiteju (MOK) je debata o zimskem tek-movanju ponovno stekla po prvi vojni. Leta 1921 je bila oblikovana Komi-sija za zimski šport. Tokrat so bili pobudniki smučarskih tekmovanj Fran-

cozi; ti so gojili smučanje v francoskih Alpah, nasprotovali pa so Skandinavci, ki so alpski predlog razumeli kot konku-renco nordijskim tekmam. Če pa bi že pristali na to, so raču-nali na organizacijo zimskega tekmovanja. Po športnopolitič-nih preigravanjih je bil končno sklenjen kompromis in predla-gali so, da se v vseh državah, kjer bodo potekale olimpijske igre, če je to možno, lahko or-ganizirajo tekmovanja zimskih športov pod patronatom MOK in po pravilih relevantnih med-narodnih panožnih zvez ter da bo v francoskem Chamonixu v letu pariških olimpijskih iger organiziran zimskošportni teden. Ta je potekal med 25. ja-nuarjem in 4. februarjem 1924. Zanimivo je, da na otvoritvi ni bilo predsednika MOK Pierra de Coubertina, ki je bil do zim-skega tedna skeptičen, ob za-ključku pa je že govoril druga-če. Uradno je bil zimskošportni teden uspeh, finančno polom, športno povprečje, športno-promocijsko pa izreden uspeh. Program je obsegal tekme v smučanju, bobu, drsanju (umetnostnem in hitrostnem) in hokeju, vključeval pa je tudi curling kot demonstracijski šport. Smučarski del je obsegal

le nordijske tekme (teke in skoke), vendar je smučanje vstopilo v olimpij-ski program in v tridesetih letih so se smučarska tekmovanja razširila še z alpskimi disciplinami. Na olimpijskem kongresu v Pragi 1925 so potrdili zimski program kot ločene zimske olimpijske igre, MOK pa je na svoji seji 1926. leta zimskošportni teden potrdil kot I. zimske olimpijske igre.

Albin Novšak, 1936

{ The Winter Olympics } Pri okreščevalnici na Jezerskem sedlu

Sankaški tekmovalec iz Bohinjske Bistrice, Janez Logar, leta 1911( 69 )

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{ The Winter Olympics }

The Winter Sports Weekin Chamonix, the start of the Winter Olympic GamesText: Tomaž Pavlin

There is a difference between the number of the Summer Olympic Games and that of the Winter Olympic Games. Bei-jing has just hosted the 29th Summer Olympic Games, while Vancouver is about to host the 21st Winter Olympic Games.

This is because winter sports competitions became independent Olympic competitions more than two decades after the start of the modern Olym-pic era. The 1908 Summer Olympics in London were the first to feature a winter sports event – figure skating. The Antwerp Games in 1920 featured figure skating and ice hockey. The ice competitions were held a few months before the summer events and were treated as part of the Sum-mer Olympics in Antwerp. And what about skiing? During the prepara-tions for the 1912 Stockholm Olympics, the Swedish organisers wanted to include skiing in the Games programme, but met with opposition on the grounds that skiing events were regional events. The Scandinavians had in fact been organising the so-called Nordic Games every four years since 1900. Competitors came from Norway, Sweden and Denmark. With the spread of winter sports, in particular skiing, across Europe, other Europe-ans began taking part in the Nordic Games, who later seized the winter sports initiative and began beating on the Olympic door, while the Scan-dinavians jealously guarded the Nordic Games, and skiing itself, on the grounds that it was their invention, tradition and sporting innovation: the first skiing competitions, for example, are linked to the Telemark region of Norway (1879). With the spread of the ski and skiing into Alpine Europe, two skiing “poles” formed and, increasingly, two different types of skis and skiing: Nordic and Alpine. Both disciplines include cross-country skiing, downhill skiing and ski jumping, but downhill skiing established itself increasingly strongly in the second discipline, adapted to the Alpine environment; the first Alpine competitions took place in

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{ The Winter Olympics }

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Crans Montana in Switzerland in 1911. Switzerland was also the venue of the first sledging competitions – including traditional toboggan, bob-sleigh and skeleton. The bobsleigh and the skeleton actually share com-mon roots in traditional Swiss sledges, while as sports they are linked to the development of winter tourism in the Alps and adventure-hungry British tourists who were constantly coming up with ways to build – and race – faster, more daring sledges. In the mid-19th century the Cresta Run was built at St Moritz to meet the needs of this new form of sledging, which had become a sport. The Cresta Run became famous as a unique and prestigious bobsleigh run. Tourism was becoming an increasingly important factor in the spread of winter sports. We find a similar exam-ple here in Slovenia, where Bohinjska Bistrica developed into one of the main winter tourism centres before the First World War. “Our Davos” it used to be called. The railway line linked it both to the Kranj area and, through the Bohinj Tunnel, to the hinterland of Gorizia and Trieste, and tourists looking for relaxation came here to toboggan, ski and skate. In the years before the First World War, the Belvedere toboggan run was built for these tourists, and skiing events were held that attracted ama-teur skiers and experts. Winter sports were also adopted by the local peo-ple, who quickly joined the ranks of the athletes.

At the International Olympic Committee (IOC), the debate about winter sports competitions was revived after the First World War. In 1921 a Winter Sports Commission was set up. On this occasion it was the French who were promoting skiing events, as skiing was a develop-

ing sport in the French Alps. They were opposed by the Scandinavians, who saw the Alpine proposal as a rival to their Nordic Games. In return for agreeing to the proposal, they expected to be entrusted with the organisation of the winter competition. After much political wrangling, a compromise was finally agreed and it was proposed that winter sports events could be organised, where this was possible, in all countries host-ing the Olympic Games, under the patronage of the IOC and the rules of the relevant international federations, and that a Winter Sports Week would be held in Chamonix in the year of the Paris Olympics. The Win-ter Sports Week ran from 25 January to 4 February 1924. Interestingly, the IOC President Pierre de Coubertin, who was sceptical about the event, was not present at the opening ceremony. By the end of the week, how-ever, he had changed his tune. Officially, the Winter Sports Week was a success; financially, it was a fiasco; in sporting terms, it was average; but in terms of the promotion of sport, it was an unqualified success. The programme included skiing, bobsleigh, skating (figure skating and speed skating) and ice hockey. The skiing part of the programme only included Nordic events (cross-country skiing and ski jumping), but ski-ing had at last become an Olympic sport. In the 1930s the skiing events were widened to include Alpine disciplines. At the Olympic Congress in Prague in 1925, the winter programme was confirmed as a separate Winter Olympics, while at its meeting in 1926 the IOC (retroactively) designated the 1924 International Winter Sports Week as the 1st Winter Olympic Games. A

{ The Winter Olympics }

Hokejski turnir na olimpijskih igrah Ga-Pa 1936

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{ The Winter Olympics }

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Kje smo Slovenci v zgodbi zimskih

olimpijskih iger? Prisotni smo že na

zimskošportnem tednu v Chamonixu.

V smučarskih tekih na 18 in 50 km sta nastopila

Zdenko Švigelj in Vladimir Kajzer. Uvrščena

v ozadje sta se s težkimi turnimi smučmi z

neprimernimi stremeni in v neprimernem oblačilu

borila s kilometri na progi z višinsko razliko 900 m

ter grdim vremenom, preživljala ekstremno športno

izkušnjo in se soočila s konkurenco.

50 km 9 ur

Besedilo: Tomaž Pavlin

{ Zimske olimpijske igre }

Anton Gnidovec in Franc Smolej v Ga-Pa, 1936

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{ Zimske olimpijske igre }

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Težki so bili slovenski smučarski začetki, polni strokovnih neznank, a z voljo po napredku, kljub temu da sta npr. na 50 km oba »prišla na cilj po zaključku žirije, zadnji celo 3 ure kasneje, ko so bili člani žirije zbrani pri večerji. 50 km 9 ur.«,

je zapisal kronist tistega časa. A v slabem desetletju se je zimski šport v Sloveniji razširil in organizacijsko utrdil, strokovno delo pa so pomaga-li razvijati Skandinavci. Ko so potekale »nacistične« zimske olimpijske igre v Garmisch-Partenkirchnu 1936, je nastopilo že 17 športnikov in Slovenci so bili jedro zimskega športa v Jugoslaviji; nastopili so v nor-dijskem in alpskem smučanju. Prijavljeni so bili tudi hokejisti, ki pa iz danes nam neznanih razlogov v Ga-Pa niso odpotovali. Zato pa je velik uspeh v teku na 50 km dosegel Franc Smolej. Zasedel je odlično 11. me-sto in bil drugi najbolje uvrščeni Srednjeevropejec z dobrimi 17 minuta-mi zaostanka za zmagovitim Švedom Elisom Viklundom.

Franc Smolej je bil smučarski fenomen naših krajev, športni garač, delavec železar in borec, doma iz jeseniške Kurje vasi pod Mežakljo, fenomenalne vasi, iz katere je izšlo nič koliko olimpijcev smučarjev in pozneje hokejistov. Ne nazadnje, Smolejeve olimpijske nastope sta nadaljevala njegova sinova Franc in Roman, le da v hokeju. Smolej se je resneje posvetil smučanju pri osemnajstih, a kot pravi v priložnostnem zapisu iz leta 1938 »težki družinski časi, brezposelnost itd. so bile ovire … hitrejšemu razvoju in treningu«. Trdo delo, tako doma kot pozneje v jeseniški železarni, je bilo hkrati trening, ko pa je bilo opravljeno, »te-daj sem se šele z veseljem predal užitku smučanja.« Bil je asket, disci-pliniran in je poudarjal, da je predpogoj za uspeh morala: »Red v spanju (mnogokrat oziroma najraje z Ave Marijo), sem sovražnik nikotina in alkohola, imam voljo do dela sploh… Rad imam hribe, zato v poletju precej oblezem, včasih tudi precej daleč in hitro.« Petnajst let je igral nogomet in še poudaril: »Lenobe ne poznam: če sem nerazpoložen, na trening rajši ne grem.« Smolej je dobro poznal trening finskih tekačev, ki so bili dnevno na snegu, po treningu pa so sledile parne kopeli, masaža in počitek, »jaz pa sem treniral, kakor je pač nanesel čas, sneg in razmere. Kakšno zimo več, včasih manj, največ pa takrat, ko smo tre-nirali za olimpiado« leta 1936 pod vodstvom finskega trenerja Kuisme. Kakšen rezultat bi šele Smolej dosegel, če bi živel v naših časih oziroma če bi imel trening, primerljiv s skandinavskim in finskim.

{ Zimske olimpijske igre }

Naši smučarji na Češkem, 1923

Ante Gnidovec (prvi z leve) in Franc Smolej (prvi z desne)

{ The Winter Olympics }

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50 km9 hrsText: Tomaž Pavlin

Where do we Slovenes appear in the story of the Winter Olympics? We were already present at the Winter Sports Week in Chamonix. Zdenko Švigelj and Vladimir Kajzer participated in the 18-km and 50-km

cross-country skiing events. After qualifying at the back of the field, with heavy touring skis, unsuitable bindings and unsuitable clothing, they battled the kilometres – and the bad weather – on a course which featured an altitude difference of 900 metres, an extreme experience that gave them the opportunity to measure themselves against the competition. The early days of Slovene skiing were difficult, full of technical unknowns, but with a desire for progress, despite the fact that in the 50-km event, for example, the two Slovenes “reached the finish after judging had closed, the last of them a full three hours later, when the members of the judging panel were having their dinner; 50 km 9 hrs” – as the journalist covering the event wrote at the time. In less than a decade, however, winter sports had spread and consolidated themselves in Slovenia, with some technical assistance from the Scandinavians. Seventeen Slovene competitors took part in the 1936 “Nazi” Winter Olympic Games in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, and Slovenes were the nucleus of winter sports in Yugoslavia. They com-peted in both Nordic skiing and Alpine skiing events. An ice hockey team also entered the Games, but for reasons that are today unclear, they did

not travel to ‘Ga-Pa’. A major success was achieved in the 50-kilometre cross-country skiing event by Franc Smolej, who finished an excellent 11th and was the second-highest finisher from Central Europe, just over 17 minutes behind the winner, Elis Wiklund of Sweden.

Franc Smolej was a local skiing phenomenon, a sporting grafter, an ironworker and a fighter. He came from Kurja Vas pod Mežaklo (today part of Jesenice), a phenomenal village that has produced many Olympic skiers and, more recently, ice hockey players. Last but not least, Smolej’s Olympic exploits were continued by his sons Franc and Roman, both

ice hockey players. Smolej began devoting himself seriously to skiing at the age of eighteen, but as he wrote in 1938: “Hard times for my family, unemployment and so on were obstacles […] to more rapid develop-ment and training.” Hard work, both at home and, later, in the Jesenice ironworks, was at the same time training, but when the work was done, “only then did I happily give myself over to the pleasure of skiing.” He was ascetic and disciplined and used to say that morality was a precon-dition for success: “I sleep regular hours (often or rather preferably with an ‘Ave Maria’ before going to bed), I abhor nicotine and alcohol, and I have a strong appetite for work. […] I love the mountains and so in sum-mer I walk a good deal, sometimes quite far and fast.” He also played football for fifteen years: “I have no notion of laziness. If I am not in the mood for training, I prefer not to go.” Smolej was very familiar with the training methods used by Finnish cross-country skiers, whose daily training on the snow was followed by steam baths, massages and rest. “But my training depended on time, snow and conditions. One winter it would be more, another winter less. Training was most intensive when we were preparing for the [1936] Olympics” (under the Finnish coach Kuisma). Who knows what kind of results Smolej would have achieved had he been competing today, or had he had the benefit of the sort of training that the Scandinavians and Finns enjoyed. A

{ The Winter Olympics }

B. Neuman

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Franc Smolej, 1936

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Besedilo in fotografije: Urban Golob

Plezanje nad Ospom

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Besedilo in fotografije: Urban Golob

Malokdo bi v dolini pod kraškim robom pričakoval takšne stene, kot se pnejo nad Ospom. Ne samo tako

visoke, ampak predvsem tako previsne. Nič čudnega, da so bile za alpiniste v petdesetih, šestdesetih, pa tudi v večini sedemdesetih let pretežke. Večina jih verjetno sploh ni poznala. Njihovo odkrivanje se je odvijalo v osemdesetih letih, pravi zamah pa je doživelo v zadnjem desetletju ali dveh in danes se plezalcu, ki potipa tamkajšnjo skalo, ne zdi prav nič nenavadno, da so osapske stene tako pomembno plezališče, da je zanj slišal tako rekoč vsak plezalec na svetu.

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{ Plezanje }

Čeprav so se alpinisti prvič podali v stene nad Ospom v letu 1977, so jih domačini seveda poznali že davno pred tem. A zanimale so jih iz povsem drugačnih razlogov. Močno pre-visne so nekoč nudile dobro zatočišče pred turškimi vpadi,

še prej pa tudi zavetje pred pustošenjem drugih divjih ljudstev, pred-vsem z vzhoda. Pod veliko osapsko steno so vaščani pred stoletji posta-vili tudi obzidje, ki jih je še dodatno varovalo pred vojsko iz Male Azije.

Dolgo časa je potem v stenah prevladovalo zatišje in le domačini so se spomladi sprehajali tam okoli, nabirali šparglje, jeseni pa pripravljali les za kurjavo. Tako je bilo vse do leta 1977, ko so tržaški in istočasno tudi slovenski alpinisti opazili plezalske možnosti, ki so jih nudile te stene. Začeli so plezati zahtevne močno previsne smeri, a skoraj brez izjeme so vse premagovali s t. i. tehničnim plezanjem, s klina na klin, viseč v lestvicah. Stene so bile pretežke za takratno raven plezanja, da bi jih lahko plezali prosto. Zaradi južne lege, milega podnebja in zavetja pred burjo je Osp postal plezalna destinacija predvsem v hladnejši po-lovici leta, saj je poleti v tamkajšnjih skalah prevroče.

To je bil tudi čas, ko so se vsi plezalci, ki so obiskovali Osp, poznali med sabo. Kampa, kot je sedaj v vasi, takrat še zdaleč ni bilo in tudi večina vaščanov je plezalske prišleke gledala z rahlim nezaupanjem. Ampak ne vsi. Elica in Emil Vehar sta bila popolnoma drugačna. Po-sebno Elica je postala prava plezalska mama, pri kateri si dobil vse, kar si potreboval, če ne drugega, pa prijazen klepet. In pri njiju je bilo tudi večerno zbirališče vseh, ki so podnevi viseli po okoliških stenah. Glede na to, da je osapska dolina tudi vinorodno območje, ni treba posebej povedati, da so se plezalski večeri pri Elici podaljšali ob poskušanju re-foška, malvazije ali sivega pinota.

Toda časi se spreminjajo in športni vidik plezanja je v glavnem pre-glasil staro družabnost, v veliki meri pa so se tudi zamenjale generacije plezalcev. Stene nad Ospom so postale plezališče svetovnega formata in med najboljšimi plezalci se je še posebej uveljavila Mišja peč, ki je samo streljaj oddaljena od velike osapske stene. Le redkokje na svetu je na tako majhnem prostoru zbranih tako veliko težkih športnoplezalnih smeri kot tam. Med njimi so tudi takšne, ki so bile po zahtevnosti plezanja korak naprej, in tako je tudi ostalo. Nič čudnega, da zato Osp obišče veliko ple-zalcev z vsega sveta, med njimi tudi vse največje zvezde tega športa.

Zelo težko je nazorno opisati, kako zelo se je v teh desetletjih spreme-nilo plezanje v Ospu. Mogoče je še najboljše postreči s številkami: leta 1985 je bilo v vseh osapskih stenah skupno okrog 40 plezalnih smeri, danes pa lahko plezalci plezajo v skoraj 400 smereh. Seveda se ta razvoj ni zgodil kar čez noč, vseeno pa je bil moteč za nekatere prebivalce teh sten – za ptice. Razlog je preprost: tako ptiči kot tudi plezalci imajo radi podobne stene: plezalci zaradi oprimkov v previsnih skalah, ptiči pa za-radi prostora za gnezdenje, ki ga ti potencialni oprimki ponujajo. Kljub začetnim nesoglasjem so z nekaterimi omejitvami plezanja na vsem kraškem robu našli svoj prostor vsi zainteresirani.

Čeprav je Osp zbirališče plezalcev z vsega sveta, so glavno vlogo v njem odigrali slovenski. Mišje peči ne bi poznali takšne, kot je, če ne bi njenega plezalskega potenciala prvi opazil Srečo Rehberger, ki je opremil in prvi preplezal danes največje »klasike« v tem plezališču. Svoj prispe-vek je s takrat daleč najtežjo smerjo pri nas in eno najtežjih na svetu tistega časa dodal Tadej Slabe, ko je preplezal svojo previsno mojstro-vino »Za staro kolo in majhnega psa«. Oba plezalca, Rehberger in Slabe, sta kot glavna akterja sodelovala pri prvem neposrednem televizijskem prenosu kakršnega koli plezanja sploh. V maju 1986 sta namreč pred te-

levizijskimi kamerami TV Slovenija ves dan prosto plezala smer Magična goba v veliki osapski steni. Če še malo ostanemo pri filmu, ne moremo mimo dokumentarca »Chalk and Chocolate« o Nataliji Gros, ki je skoraj izključno posnet v Mišji peči. Poleg tržaških plezalcev, ki imajo Osp in njegove stene tako rekoč pred nosom in so lahko tako pomembno sode-lovali pri opremljanju novih smeri, moramo omeniti še vsaj Mateja Sovo, ki je v avtor kar nekaj najtežjih smeri v osapskih previsih.

Čeprav je v stenah nad Ospom vedno manj možnosti za odpiranje novih smeri, pa to še zdaleč ne pomeni, da plezanje v teh primorskih previsih postaja manj zanimivo. Zelo kvalitetno plezanje, ki ga omogo-čajo osapske stene, je namreč magnet za številne domače in tuje špor-tne plezalce. Žvenket vponk za plezalnim pasom nad Ospom gotovo še dolgo časa ne bo potihnil.

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Le redkokje na svetu je na tako majhnem prostoru zbranih tako veliko težkih športnoplezalnih smeri kot tam.

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{ Plezanje }

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{ Climbing }

Climbing above OspText and photography: Urban Golob

Few people would expect to find cliffs like those rising above Osp in a valley below the edge of the Karst. Not just so high, but above all so overhanging. It is no wonder that they were too difficult for climbers in the 1950s and 1960s, and even

for most of the 1970s. Most climbers probably did not even know them. Their discovery took place in the 1980s, while the real boom has been in the last decade or two. These days, climbers in Osp see nothing unusual in the fact that the Osp crags are such an important climbing centre that practically every climber in the world has heard of them.

Although climbers first made their way to the walls above Osp in 1977, the local people naturally knew about them long before that. But their in-terest in them was for completely different reasons. The steep overhangs once offered a safe refuge from Turkish raids, and before that provided shelter from the devastation wrought by other barbarous peoples, mainly from the east. Centuries ago the villagers even built walls below the great Osp cliff to provide additional protection from the armies of Asia Minor.

For a long time after that, silence reigned on the walls. Local people would visit the area in spring to pick wild asparagus and in autumn to cut firewood. And so it remained until 1977, when climbers from Trieste and, simultaneously, climbers from Slovenia spotted the climbing pos-sibilities that these walls offered. They began to climb the difficult over-hanging routes, but almost without exception they conquered them by “technical climbing”, moving from piton to piton. The walls were too difficult to be climbed “free”, given the level of climbing in those days. Owing to the southern exposure, mild climate and shelter from the Bora, Osp became a popular climbing destination in the colder half of the year; in summer, the cliffs became too hot.

This was also a time when all the climbers who visited Osp knew each other. There was nothing like the campsite that the village has today, and most of the villagers viewed the climbing newcomers with mild mistrust. Not all of them, however. Elica and Emil Vehar were quite the opposite. El-ica became a kind of mother to the climbers, someone who would provide you with everything you needed, or if nothing else at least a friendly chat. And Elica and Emil's house was also the evening gathering place for eve-ryone who had spent the day hanging from the surrounding cliffs. Given that the Osp Valley is also a wine-growing area, it goes without saying that the climbers' evenings at Elica's would be prolonged with tastings of the local refošk (Refosco), malvazija (Malvasia) or sivi pinot (Pinot gris).

But times change, and for the most part the “sport” element of climb-ing has taken the place of the old sociability. To a large extent the older climbers have also been replaced by new generations. The crags above Osp

have become a world-famous climbing centre and Mišja Peč, just a stone's throw from the big Osp wall, has become particularly popular among the best climbers. Few places in the world can offer so many difficult sport climbing routes in such a small area. They include some routes that have represented – or still represent – a step forwards in terms of climbing diffi-culty. No wonder, then, that Osp should be visited by many climbers from all over the world, including some of the biggest names of this sport.

It is difficult to get across just how much climbing in Osp has changed in these decades. Perhaps the simplest way is with numbers. In 1985 there were a total of around 40 climbing routes on all the Osp walls; today climbers can climb as many as 400 routes. Naturally this develop-ment did not happen overnight, but even so it was disturbing for some inhabitants of the cliffs – the birds. The reason for this is simple. Both birds and climbers love the same kind of walls. Climbers love them be-cause of the handholds and footholds in the overhanging rocks; birds love them because of the nesting areas that these potential handholds and footholds offer. Despite their initial differences, a number of restric-tions on climbing along the entire edge of the Karst have meant that all interested parties have been able to find their own space.

Although Osp is a gathering place for climbers from all over the world, the main role has been played here by Slovene climbers. Mišja Peč would not be as famous as it is had its climbing potential not been spotted by Srečo Rehberger, who established some of the biggest “classics” in this climbing area. Tadej Slabe made his own contribution with what was then by far the most difficult route in Slovenia and one of the most difficult routes in the world at that time, when he climbed his own overhanging masterpiece, which he named “Za staro kolo in majhnega psa” ('The Old Bicycle and Small Dog Route'). These two climbers, Rehberger and Slabe, were the stars of the first live television broadcast of rock-climbing. In May 1986 they spent the whole day free-climbing the 'Magic Mushroom' route in the great Osp wall for the benefit of RTV Slovenija's television cameras. And while we are on the subject of film, I should also mention Chalk and Chocolate, a docu-mentary about the climber Natalija Gros, almost all of which was filmed on Mišja Peč. As well as the Trieste climbers, who have Osp and its crags practi-cally under their nose and have been able to play such an important role in establishing new routes, I should also mention Matej Sova, the author of quite a number of the most difficult routes in the Osp overhangs.

Although there are fewer and fewer possibilities to open up new routes in the cliffs above Osp, this certainly does not mean that climb-ing these overhangs is becoming less interesting. The extremely high quality climbing offered by the Osp walls is a magnet for many domestic and foreign sport climbers. It will surely be a long time before the clink-ing of carabiners on a climbing belt above Osp is silenced. A

Few places in the world can offer so many difficult sport climbing routes in such a small area.

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Besedilo in fotografije: Tadej Žnidarčič

Nollywood -Široka ulica v eni premožnejših sosesk

v predmestju Lagosa je skoraj prazna. Na star mercedes, parkiran na eni

strani ceste, se naslanja slok moški. V roki drži scenarij svojega najnovejšega filma in nepremično strmi v velika, težka, zapahnjena železna vrata na drugi strani ceste, za katerimi se dviga ogromna vila. »Hja,« se namršči režiser Ola Orlando Shoyinka, medtem ko si z dlanjo obriše potoček potu s čela. »Lastnik tiste hiše tam čez mi je še včeraj obljubil, da bomo danes lahko snemali na notranjem dvorišču. Pred eno uro pa si je na lepem premislil.« Še enkrat na hitro ošvrkne scenarij in člane svoje ekipe, ki se pred močnim soncem skrivajo v zavetju visokega zidu. »Nimamo časa, da bi iskali novo lokacijo, zato bo ta scena pač drugačna. Posneli jo bomo kar zunaj na pločniku!«

cvetoča filmska industrijav osrčju Afrike

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Nigerija

cvetoča filmska industrijav osrčju Afrike

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{ Nigerija }

S podobnimi težavami se redno spopadajo vsi nigerijski režiserji, vendar nihče niti pomisli ne, da bi odnehal. V zavesti Zahoda nastopa Nigerija večinoma kot država nafte, ugrabitev, etničnih nemirov, nasilnih volitev in internetnih prevar. Toda

zadnja leta v njej cveti filmska industrija – Nollywood, ki je od prvih resnejših investicij v manj kot dvajsetih letih prehitel Hollywood po številu posnetih filmov. Zdaj je pred njim le še Bollywood. Najnovešji Shoyinkov film je tako le eden izmed množice filmov, ki vsako leto udarijo na nigerijski filmski trg. Kljub neskončnim prometnim zastojem, pomanjkanju zanesljive elektrike, vročini, vlagi in neobstoječi filmski infrastrukturi na stotine producentov izdaja filme kot po tekočem traku. Vsak teden je na voljo več kot 30 novih naslovov, ki so običajno posneti v enem tednu za nekaj deset tisoč dolarjev, produkcijo pa spodbujajo milijoni oboževalcev z vseh koncev Afrike in v imigrantskih skupnostih na Zahodu.

»Pred kratkim sem se vrnil s promocijske turneje po Jamajki,« pravi Emeka Ike, ki je med najbolj razpoznavnimi obrazi Nollywooda in eden glavnih igralcev v Shoyinkovem filmu. »Ljudje so bili fantastični. Usta-vljali so se na cesti, nas klicali, nam mahali. Na ulici nisem mogel nare-diti niti pet korakov, ne da bi me kdo prosil za avtogram.«

Nizki proračuni, pretirana in teatralična igra ter občasno povsem nerazpoznaven zvok so značilnost skoraj vseh filmov, toda tehnične pomanjkljivosti gledalcev ne motijo. Hollywoodski spektakli in bolly-woodski muzikali niso po okusu ljudi v afriških vaseh in v slumih ter delavskih četrtih, ki pokajo po šivih.

»Mi pripovedujemo afriške zgodbe na naš način,« pravi Shoyinka. »Naši gledalci želijo te zgodbe videti.« Zapleti so si podobni: večinoma se vrtijo okrog ljubezenskih prevar, denarja, urokov in magije, toda do-bro na koncu vedno prevlada.

»Ti filmi imajo jasno moralno poanto,« poudari igralka Ufuoma Ejeno-bor. »Če si hudoben, na koncu plačaš. Če delaš dobro, si nagrajen. To je za ljudi tu zelo pomembno.«

Industrija pa nagrajuje tudi v njej zaposlene. Nollywood je v državi, ki ponuja malo priložnosti, v nekaj letih postal eden večjih delodajalcev in mnogi mladi sanjajo o velikih filmskih vlogah. Najuspešnejši igralci so dobro plačani in snemajo brez predaha. Prihodnost se zdi svetla.

»Nollywood je še mlad,« pravi Shoyinka. »Na voljo imam 1 kamero, 2

Nizki proračuni, pretirana in teatralična igra ter občasno povsem nerazpoznaven zvok so značilnost skoraj vseh filmov, toda tehnične pomanjkljivosti gledalcev ne motijo.

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luči, par deset tisoč dolarjev in nič elektrike. Hollywood ima velike studie, vso tisto opremo, kulise in elektriko ves čas. In s tem nas pri-merjajo? Ampak mi se učimo, ne zanima nas samo kvantiteta, temveč tudi kvaliteta. Prepričan sem, da bomo kmalu snemali filme, ki bodo vznemirili cel svet.«

Toda zaenkrat se Shoyinka sooča s precej trdo realnostjo. Na snema-nju gre skoraj vsak dan kaj narobe. Enkrat se med napetim soočenjem glavnih igralcev pokvari generator, ki je nujen del snemalne opreme, saj nihče zares ne računa na uradno dobavo električne energije. Drugič glavni igralec zaradi prometnih zastojev, ki so tradicionalna značilnost Lagosa, več ur zamuja na snemanje. Nato se pokvari ena od dveh kamer. Snemalni dnevi se daljšajo in dnevne scene postajajo nočne. Ker ni časa za vaje, igralci besedilo večinoma improvizirajo.

»Na voljo imamo le nekaj dni. Vsaka filmska produkcija je avantura is-kanja improviziranih rešitev in tekma s časom,« pravi Shoyinka. »Posto-pek ustvarjanja filma smo zelo poenostavili, včasih snemamo do treh ponoči, nato moram do jutra še popraviti scenarij. Nekoč bi rad delal v pravem studiu. Ampak ta film bomo zdaj posneli ne glede na vse težave. O tem ni nobenega dvoma!« S scenarijem pomaha ekipi in že čez pet mi-nut se na pločniku pred zaprtimi železnimi vrati med igralci razvname strasten pogovor. Kratkega prediha je konec, snemalni dan bo še dolg.

{ Nollywood }

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{ Nigeria }

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NollywoodA Flourishing Film Industry in the Heart of AfricaText and photography: Tadej Žnidarčič

The broad street in one of the wealthier neighbourhoods in this Lagos suburb is almost empty. A slim man leans against an old Mercedes parked on one side of the street. In his hand he

holds the script of his latest film. He stares fixedly at the big, heavy, bolt-ed iron gates on the other side of the street, behind which an enormous villa can be seen.

“Hmm,” scowls the director Ola Orlando Shoyinka, as he wipes a trickle of sweat from his brow with the palm of his hand. “The owner of that house over there promised me yesterday that we could film in his court-yard today. But an hour ago he suddenly changed his mind.” He has an-other quick glance at the script and at the members of his crew, who are hiding from the powerful sun in the shelter of a high wall. “We haven’t got time to look for a new location, so this scene will have to be done dif-ferently. We’ll film it out here on the pavement!”

All Nigerian directors regularly face problems of this kind, but none of them would even consider giving up. Westerners usually think of Nigeria as a country of oil, kidnappings, ethnic tensions, violent elections and internet fraud. In recent years, however, it has become home to a thriving film industry known as Nollywood, which, less than twenty years since the first serious investments, has already overtaken Hollywood in terms of the number of films made. Today only Bollywood makes more films. Shoyinka’s latest is just one of the mass of films to hit Nigeria’s screens every year. Despite endless traffic jams, the lack of a reliable electricity

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{ Nollywood }

{ Nigeria }

supply, the heat, the humidity and the nonexistent film industry infra-structure, hundreds of producers are churning out movies as though on a conveyor belt. There are more than 30 new titles every week, typically filmed in a single week for a few tens of thousands of dollars. Production is driven by millions of fans all over Africa and in African immigrant com-munities in the West.

“I recently got back from a promotional trip to Jamaica,” says Emeka Ike, one of the most recognisable faces of Nollywood and one of the stars of Shoyinka’s film. “The people were fantastic. They stopped in the street, called to us, waved at us. I couldn’t walk five steps without some-one asking me for an autograph.”

Low budgets, overacting and excessive staginess, and a soundtrack that is sometimes completely unintelligible are characteristics of almost all the films, but these technical shortcomings do not bother audiences. Hollywood blockbusters and Bollywood musicals are not to the taste of people in African villages or in the overcrowded shanty towns and work-ers’ districts of African cities.

“We tell African stories in our own way,” explains Shoyinka. “Our audi-ence wants to see these stories.” The plots are all very similar and for the most part revolve around infidelity, money, bewitchments and magic, but good always prevails in the end.

“These films have a clear moral message,” insists Ufuoma Ejenobor, another actress. “If you are wicked, you pay in the end. If you do good, you are rewarded. This is very important for people here.”

The industry also rewards those it employs. In a country which offers few opportunities, Nollywood has become, in the space of a few years, a major employer, and many young people dream about major film roles.

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The most successful actors are well paid and make one film after another. The future seems bright.

“Nollywood is still young,” says Shoyinka. “I work with one camera, two lights, ten or twenty thousand dollars and no electricity. Hollywood has big studios, all that equipment, proper sets, and electricity all the time. And they compare us with that? But we are learning. We are not only interested in quantity but also in quality. I believe that we will soon be making films that will have the whole world talking.”

But for the time being Shoyinka is facing a fairly tough reality. Some-thing goes wrong almost every day of a film shoot. One day, in the middle of a tense confrontation between the main actors, the generator breaks down. This is a vital part of equipment since nobody can really count on the official electricity supply. Another time the star is several hours late arriving on set because of the traffic jams that are a traditional characteristic of Lagos. Then one of the two cameras breaks down. Shoot-ing days get longer and daytime scenes become night scenes. Since there is no time to rehearse, the actors tend to improvise their parts.

“We only have a few days available. Every film production is an adven-ture that involves finding improvised solutions and a race against time,” says Shoyinka. “We have greatly simplified the process of making a film. Sometimes we film until three o’clock in the morning, and then I have to correct the script by the next day. I would love to work in a real studio one day. But we are going to make this film now despite all the problems. There is no doubt about that!” He waves the script at the crew and five minutes later, on the pavement outside the closed iron gates, a passionate discussion is taking place between the actors. The short break is over and there are still a lot of scenes to get through before the day is done. A

Low budgets, overacting and excessive staginess, and a soundtrack that is sometimes completely unintelligible are characteristics of almost all the films, but these technical shortcomings do not bother audiences.

{ Raja Ampat }

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Lepa si, Tanzanija!

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Besedilo: Nevenka Lukić Rojšek Fotografije: Matjaž Krivic

Pred okoli 60.000 leti je človek, v vseh pomembnih pogledih enak nam, hodil po afriški savani. Vsak današnji prebivalec Zemlje je njegov potomec,« sem si neprestano ponavljala v zgodnjih jutranjih urah, ko sem stala na robu kraterja Ngorongoro. Meglice so se, odete v vse odtenke modre, počasi dvigovale nad kraterjem in ga odkrivale plast za plastjo. Dih mi je zastal. Svoboda je zame končno dobila svoj pomen.

»

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{ Tanzanija }

Modra se je pred mojimi očmi počasi umikala močni zeleni in narava je glasno vpila: Dobro jutro. Ob vznožju kraterja, tik pod mestom, kjer sem čakala na jutro, je v tišini korakalo

šest mogočnih afriških nosorogov. Njihova telesa so se svetila v jutra-njem soncu, s ponosno dvignjenimi rogovi so kazali pot proti vodi. V varni razdalji so jim sledile slonice z mladiči, ki so razigrano obračali ušesa. In bila sem v drugem svetu, v svetu pred več deset tisoč leti, ko je prva ženska stala na robu kraterja in čakala, da posije sonce. Zavedala sem se samo, da je to tisto, kar sem iskala, a nisem vedela, kje najti. Stik s stvarstvom. Resničen občutek, da sem otrok narave in v tem trenutku povezana z njo bolj kot kdajkoli prej v življenju.

Ko se je jutro umaknilo dnevu, je napočil čas, da se spustim v krater, ki ima vhod in izhod. Vmes pa je sama divjina. Bila sem prepričana, da me bodo peljali po ustaljenih poteh, tako kot je to določeno za safari, a so me presenetili. Uprava Ngorongoro rezervata je dala vodiču Lesasiju posebno dovoljenje, da se lahko neposredno približamo živalim in da lahko skrenemo z ustaljene poti. Spremljali so nas oboroženi rangerji, ki poznajo področje kot svoj lastni žep. Vodili so me med levi, hijenami, šakali, mungusi, sloni, nosorogi, nilskimi konji, bivoli, gnuji, žirafami, gazelami in zebrami ter tisočimi flamingov. Na robovih kraterja so se belo svetile pastirske poti, ki so vodile od vrha vse do vode v osrčju kra-terja. V grmovju sem opazila skrite podobe. Bili so Masaji, to ponosno, visoko, bojevniško ljudstvo. Njihove črede so ogromne, pašniki prostra-ni, vode in sonca je dovolj, a vse to si delijo z divjimi živalmi. Zakoni narave se mogoče zdijo kaotični, a na svoj posebni način delujejo.

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Masaji in njihove črede so nas spremljale vse do vhoda v Serengeti, kjer ljudje nimajo več naselbin. Včasih so tudi na področju Serengetija živela različna ljudstva, a so se morala preseliti, da bi Serengeti postal nacionalni park divjih živali. Izseljenci niso pozabili na naravno boga-stvo, ki je bilo včasih njihovo, zato se še vedno vračajo po tisto, za kar menijo, da jim pripada; tako je divji lov največji problem Serengetija.

Ko se je dan umikal večeru, sem težko zapustila Ngorongoro in Se-rengeti, Masaje in vse »moje« živali ter se odpravila proti Kilimanjaru, odetem v meglo. Ko sem stala ob vznožju te afriške gore, sem začutila pripadnost tej deželi. Afriko sem zapustila iz Dar es Saalama, a zares se nisem mogla posloviti. Nikoli se ne bom. Tanzanija je kot moje otroške sanje: svetla, mistična, polna hrepenenja in svobode. Je dežela, kjer se sonce prebuja v intenzivnejših barvah, kjer narava diha s polnimi pljuči, kjer ima življenje svoj namen in svoj cilj. Prišla sem, jo videla in jo shra-nila globoko v srce. Nikoli ne bom resnično odšla.

{ Tanzanija }

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Zakoni narave se mogoče zdijo kaotični, a na svoj posebni način delujejo.

{ Tanzania }

Beautiful TanzaniaText: Nevenka Lukić Rojšek Photography: Matjaž Krivic

“Around 60,000 years ago a man who was the same as us in all important respects walked across the African savannah. Every inhabitant of the Earth today is his descendant.” This is

what I repeated to myself continuously in the early hours of the morning as I stood on the edge of the Ngorongoro Crater. The mists wrapped in every shade of blue were slowly lifting above the crater and revealing it layer by layer. It took my breath away. Freedom finally had a meaning for me. Before my eyes the blue slowly gave way to a strong green and na-ture gave a loud cry of good morning. At the foot of the crater, just below the place where I had awaited the dawn, six mighty African rhinoceroses marched in silence. Their bodies gleamed in the morning sun and with proudly raised horns they pointed the way to the watering hole. They

were followed at a safe distance by female elephants with their young, flapping their ears cheerfully. And I was in another world, in a world of ten thousand years ago when the first woman stood at the edge of the crater and waited for the sun to start shining. I was aware only that this was what I had been seeking without knowing where to find it. Contact with reality. A genuine feeling that I am a child of nature and that in this moment I was connected to it more than ever before in my life.

When dawn gave way to day, it was time to descend into the crater, which has an entrance and an exit. In the middle there is only wilderness. I was sure that they were going to lead me along the established routes, as prescribed for a safari, but they surprised me. The management of the Ngorongoro reserve had given our guide Lesasi special permission for us to approach the animals directly and diverge from the established trail. We were accompanied by armed rangers who know the area like the back of their hand. They led me among lions, hyenas, jackals, mongooses, ele-phants, rhinos, hippos, buffalos, wildebeest, giraffes, gazelles, zebras and thousands of flamingos. Gleaming white at the edges of the crater were herdsmen’s trails leading from the top right down to the water in the middle. I observed hidden figures in the bushes. They were Masai: proud, tall, warrior people. Their herds are enormous and their pastures vast. There is enough water and sun but they share all of this with wild ani-mals. The laws of nature perhaps seem chaotic but in their own special way they function.

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( 99 )

{ Tanzania }

The Masai and their herds accompanied us all the way to the entrance to the Serengeti, where there are no longer any human settlements. At one time various peoples lived here but they had to move so that the Serengeti could become a national wildlife park. The evicted inhabitants have not forgotten the natural riches that were once theirs and they still return for that which they consider theirs; and so poaching is the Ser-engeti’s biggest problem.

{ Tanzania }

The laws of nature perhaps seem chaotic but in their own special way they function.

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As day gave way to evening I left Ngorongoro and the Serengeti, the Ma-sai and all ‘my animals’ with a heavy heart and set off towards Kilimanjaro, shrouded in mist. As I stood at the foot of this African mountain, I felt a sense of belonging to this land. I left Africa from Dar es Salaam, but I was not truly able to say farewell. And I never will. Tanzania is like my child-hood dream: bright, mystical, full of yearning and freedom. It is a country where the sun rises in more intense colours, where nature breathes with

full lungs, where life has its own purpose and its own goal. I came, I saw and I stored it deep in my heart. I shall never truly leave. A

Fotografije so posnete v Tanzaniji in Keniji. / Photos were taken in Tanzania and Kenia.

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Nekaj osnovnih podatkovpovršina (v km2) 20 273gozdovi 10 124travniki 5 593polja in vrtovi 2 471sadovnjaki 363vinogradi 216

dolžina meje (v km) s Hrvaško 546z Avstijo 324z Italijo 235z Madžarsko 102obala (v km) 46,6

najvišja točka

Triglav 2864 m

gostota naseljenosti (prebivalcev/km) 98

prebivalstvo 2 milijona

glavno mesto Ljubljana

večja mesta: Maribor, Celje, Kranj, Velenje

podnebje: alpsko, celinsko, sredozemsko

jezik: Uradni jezik je slovenščina, na območjih z mešanim prebival-stvom pa madžarščina in italijanščina. Pri stiku s tujci Slovenci upo-rabljajo angleščino, nemščino, italijanščino in francoščino.

denarna valuta: Denarna valuta je evro (EUR). Tuje valute lahko zamenjate na mejnih prehodih, v bankah, menjalnicah in hotelih.

prazniki

1. in 2. januar novo leto8. februar Prešernov dan, slovenski kulturni praznik8. april velika noč27. april dan upora proti okupatorju (druga svetovna vojna)1. in 2. maj praznik dela25. junij dan državnosti15. avgust Marijino vnebovzetje31. oktober dan reformacije1. november dan spomina na mrtve25. december božič26. december dan samostojnosti

S L O V E N I J AA few factsterritory area (in sq. km) 20 273forests 10 124grassland 5 593fields and gardens 2 471orchards 363vineyards 216

border length (in km) with Croatia 546with Austria 324with Italy 235with Hungary 102coastline (in km) 46.6

highest point

Triglav 2864 m

population density (inhabitants/km) 98

population 2 million

capital Ljubljana

major towns: Maribor, Celje, Kranj, Velenje

climate: Alpine, Continental, Mediterranean

language: The official language is Slovene, as well as Hungarian and Italian in areas of mixed population. In contact with foreigners, Slo venes use English, German, Italian and French.

currency: The currency is the euro (EUR). Foreign currency may be exchanged at border crossings, in banks, exchange offices and hotels.

holidays

January 1 & 2 New Year’s HolidayFebruary 8 Prešeren Day,

Slovene Day of CultureApril 8 Easter Sunday and MondayApril 27 Day of Uprising Against the Occupation

(WW2) May 1 & 2 Labour Day PentecostJune 25 Statehood DayAugust 15 Assumption DayOctober 31 Reformation DayNovember 1 All Saints’ DayDecember 25 Christmas DayDecember 26 Independence Day

Adria Airways has used the map of Europe exclusively as an illustration of its flight connections and without any political or other implications.

EU ROPEEV ROPA

Redni poleti / Scheduled FlightsZimski in poletni vozni red

Iz/from Ljubljana/Brnik Nm/km Čas poleta/Flight time

(A320/CRJ)

Amsterdam 606/1122 1.35 h

Athens 761/1409 2.05 h

Barcelona 686/1270 1.46 h

Belgrade 267/494 0.65 h

Brussels 559/1035 1.26 h

Copenhagen 641/1187 1.39 h

Dublin 1026/1900 2.38 h

Frankfurt 420/778 1.07 h

Istanbul 781/1446 1.53 h

Kiev 730/1352 2.05 h

London (Gatwick) 757/1402 1.56 h

Madrid 929*1722 2.35 h

Manchester 868/1608 2.11 h

Moscow (Sheremetyevo) 1120/2074 2.35 h

Munich 224/415 0.41 h

Paris (C. de Gaulle) 616/1141 1.36 h

Pristina 622/1150 1.50 h

Podgorica 365/676 1.25 h

Sarajevo 222/411 0.41 h

Skopje 413/765 1.07 h

Stockholm 910/1685 2.35 h

Tirana 474/878 1.14 h

Vienna 153/283 0.30 h

Zürich 334/619 0.56 h

Warsaw 463/859 1.35 h

Vienna - Frankfurt 358/663 1.10 h

Čarterski poleti / Charter FlightsWinter and summer timetables

Iz/from Ljubljana/Brnik Nm/km Čas poleta/Flight time

(A320/CRJ)

Antalya 966/1789 2.35 h

Aqaba 1454/2692 3.18 h

Cairo 1276/2363 3.25 h

Chios 738/1367 2.10 h

Constanca 654/1211 1.55 h

Djerba 796/1474 2.20 h

Heraklion 832/1540 2.15 h

Hurghada 1533/2839 3.45 h

Ibiza 799/1480 2.20 h

Karpathos 996/1844 2.35 h

Kefalonija 585/1083 1.45 h

Kerkira (Corfu) 523/968 1.35 h

Kos 873/1616 2.20 h

Larnaca 1197/2216 3.00 h

Lefkas (Preveza) 567/1050 1.40 h

Lesbos (Mitiline) 746/1381 2.10 h

Malta 670/1241 2.00 h

Mykonos 793/1468 1.56 h

Palma de Mallorca 723/1339 2.10 h

Rhodos 947/1753 2.30 h

Samos 823/1524 2.10 h

Santorini 836/1548 2.15 h

Sharm el Sheikh 1505/2787 3.45 h

Skiatos 632/1170 1.50 h

Split 207/383 0.50 h

Thassos (Kavala) 563/1043 1.45 h

Tel Aviv 1286/2382 2.57 h

Thessaloniki 571/1057 1.24 h

Zakinthos 632/1170 1.50h

Airbus A320Število/Total 1

Dolžina/Length 37.57m

Višina/Height 11.75m

Razponkril/Wingspan 34.10m

Hitrost/Cruisingspeed 900km/h

Višinapoleta/Max.altitude 11700m

Dolet/Range 3890km

Št.potnikov/Passengercapacity 162

Canadair Regional Jet 100/200 LRŠtevilo/Total 7

Dolžina/Length 26.77m

Višina/Height 6.22m

Razponkril/Wingspan 21.21m

Hitrost/Cruisingspeed 860km/h

Višinapoleta/Max.altitude 12496m

Dolet/Range 3285km

Št.potnikov/Passengercapacity 48/50

Canadair Regional Jet 900Število/Total 4

Dolžina/Length 32.50m

Višina/Height 7.57m

Razponkril/Wingspan 23.20m

Hitrost/Cruisingspeed 882km/h

Višinapoleta/Max.altitude 12496m

Dolet/Range 3600km

Št.potnikov/Passengercapacity 86

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{ Adria Airways }AdriaAirways

Flota/Fleet

brussels airlines has joined Star Alliance With more global destinations than any other network So whether you’re flying to Europe, Africa or beyond You’ll always come first. I did I’ve earned it.

Eddy Merckx, UCI awarded Cycl ist of the 20th Century and Star Al l iance Gold Status

staral l iance.com

G U T E N B E R G N E T W O R K S

Account / Job title Star Alliance / Eddie Merckx International

Order / Job number 002925-004 / SLL011D03605

Source number P03194

Job location 5th November 2009

Size 297x210mm Trim

Proof stage One

Run out Page 1 of 1

Document name 297x210 Eddie Merckx In International P03194

Repro house Gutenberg Networks

brussels airlines has joined Star Alliance With more global destinations than any other network So whether you’re flying to Europe, Africa or beyond You’ll always come first. I did I’ve earned it.

Eddy Merckx, UCI awarded Cycl ist of the 20th Century and Star Al l iance Gold Status

staral l iance.com

G U T E N B E R G N E T W O R K S

Account / Job title Star Alliance / Eddie Merckx International

Order / Job number 002925-004 / SLL011D03605

Source number P03194

Job location 5th November 2009

Size 297x210mm Trim

Proof stage One

Run out Page 1 of 1

Document name 297x210 Eddie Merckx In International P03194

Repro house Gutenberg Networks

brussels airlines has joined Star Alliance With more global destinations than any other network So whether you’re flying to Europe, Africa or beyond You’ll always come first. I did I’ve earned it.

Eddy Merckx, UCI awarded Cycl ist of the 20th Century and Star Al l iance Gold Status

staral l iance.com

G U T E N B E R G N E T W O R K S

Account / Job title Star Alliance / Eddie Merckx International

Order / Job number 002925-004 / SLL011D03605

Source number P03194

Job location 5th November 2009

Size 297x210mm Trim

Proof stage One

Run out Page 1 of 1

Document name 297x210 Eddie Merckx In International P03194

Repro house Gutenberg Networks

Ta oglas je zaradi ohranitve neposrednosti in avtentičnosti besedila in ker je besedilo zlasti namenjeno tujim bralcem, natisnjen v angleškem jeziku.

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{ Adria Airways }

Ekonomski in poslovni razredNa večini Adrijinih prog izmenično letijo letala tipa Airbus A320, Canadair Regional Jet CRJ-100/200LR in CRJ-900.

Vozovnica za potovanje v poslovnem razredu je izdana po veljavni tarifi za poslovni razred in velja eno leto z možnostjo rezervacije, plačila in prevzema kadarkoli, omogoča pa tudi druge ugodnosti, kot so: sprememba datumov potovanja brez doplačila, večja količina brezplačne prtljage, uporaba poslov-nih salonov na letališčih idr.

V ekonomskem razredu potujejo potniki z vozovnicami po ekonomskih tarifah, ki so nižje in vsebujejo določene omejitve.

Nakup vozovnice prek spletaLetalsko vozovnico lahko najceneje in hitro rezervirate in kupite na Adrijinih spletnih straneh www.adria.si. To velja le za polete na Adrijinih letih. Nakup prek interneta je zaščiten z varnostnim certifikatom. Elektronske vozovnice prejme potnik po elektronski pošti.

V primeru, da potrebujete letalsko vozovnico, kjer bodo vključeni tudi drugi prevozniki, vas prosimo, da pokličete naš Klicni center za rezervacije in prodajo letalskih vozovnic na telefonski številki: 386 1 369 10 10 ali 080 13 00.

Potujte z elektronsko vozovnicoNa vseh rednih poletih slovenskega letalskega prevoznika je možno leteti z elektronsko vozovnico.

Potnik dobi ob nakupu potniški kupon, ki velja kot račun, in načrt poti (itinerar) v ovitku Adrie Airways. Dokument lahko prejme tudi na svoj ele-ktronski naslov in ga natisne sam. To dokumentacijo mora imeti s seboj ves čas potovanja. Pri okencu za prijavo na let se identificira s potnim listom ali osebno izkaznico. Uslužbenec izda potniku vstopni kupon za let, s katerim ta vstopi v letalo. Elektronski način dokumentiranja prodaje zagotavlja sproten vpogled v dogajanje z vozovico, hiter prenos podatkov in manjše možnosti zlorab. Najpomembnejše pri tem pa je, da so potnikovi kuponi za let shranje-ni v elektronski obliki in tako varni pred izgubo.

Web Check-inV Adrii Airways se zavedamo, da je pri potovanju pogosto dragocena vsaka minuta. Še posebej takrat, kadar nas na poti na letališče ovira gost promet. Web check-in je naša novost, s katero boste prihranili čas pri okencu za prija-vo na let, saj se nanj lahko prijavite že od doma, z delovnega mesta oziroma povsod, kjer je vzpostavljena internetna povezava. Svoj planirani let lahko prijavite največ 24 ur in najmanj 60 minut pred poletom. Storitev web check-in je trenutno možna le za določene lete Adrie Airways. V prihodnjih mesecih bomo obstoječim destinacijam postopoma dodajali še nove.

Omejitve pri vnosu živil v EUPotnikom svetujemo, da pred potovanjem preverijo seznam artiklov, ki jih je mogoče vnesti na območje Evropske skupnosti. Strog nadzor nad uvozom mesa, mleka, rib, lupinarjev ter njihovih izdelkov je nujen za zaščito ljudi in živali pred boleznimi, ki se s temi živili lahko prenašajo.

V primeru, da carinska služba pri rutinskem pregledu osebne prtljage ugo-tovi prisotnost nedovoljenih živil živalskega izvora, le-ta zaseže. Informativni letak “Kaj prinesti domov?” vam je na voljo na naši spletni strani.

Več informacij lahko dobite na Glavnem uradu VURS-a ali na njihovi sple-tni strani www.vurs.gov.si pod poglavjem Javne objave/Uvoz živil za osebno rabo.

Ročna prtljagaZaradi vaše varnosti in udobja vas vljudno prosimo, da upoštevate medna-rodna pravila, ki potniku dovoljujejo imeti pri sebi en kos ročne prtljage v velikosti 55 x 40 x 20 cm in z največjo težo osem kilogramov.

Ročno prtljago namestite v za to namenjeni predal nad sedežem, težje kose pa, če je le mogoče, shranite pod sedež pred sabo. Priporočamo vam, da predal s prtljago pazljivo odpirate, saj se lahko med poletom predmeti v njem premaknejo.

Na letalih CRJ oddajte večjo ročno prtljago pred letalom. Tam jo takoj po izstopu iz letala tudi prevzemite.

Varnostna pravilaEvropska unija (EU) je v letu 2006 sprejela nova varnostna pravila. Ta omejuje-jo količino tekočin, ki jo lahko vzamete s seboj na letalo.

V svoji ročni prtljagi lahko prenašate samo majhne količine tekočin, ki morajo biti shranjene v posamičnih posodah z največjo prostornino 100 mililitrov. Te posode morate zapakirati v prozorno plastično vrečko, ki jo je mogoče znova zatesniti; prostornina vrečke posameznega potnika ne sme biti večja od enega litra. Med tekočine spadajo: voda in druge pijače; juhe in sirupi; kreme, losjoni in olja; parfumi; razpršilci; geli, vključno z geli za lase in tuširanje; posode z vsebinami pod pritiskom, vključno s peno za britje ter drugimi penami in dezodoranti; kreme, vključno z zobno kremo; mešanice tekočih in trdnih snovi; črtalo za veke in tuš za trepalnice; ter katerekoli druge snovi s podobno vsebnostjo.

Še vedno lahko tekočine prenašate v oddani prtljagi – nova pravila se nana-šajo samo na ročno prtljago. V svoji ročni prtljagi lahko prenašate:• zdravila in nujno potrebna živila, (vključno z otroško hrano), ki jih boste

uporabljali med potovanjem; morda boste morali dokazati, da jih nujno potrebujete;

• tekočine, kot so pijače in parfumi, (kupite jih lahko bodisi v prodajalni na letališču EU, ki je za točko, na kateri pokažete svoj vstopni kupon, ali pa na letalu, ki ga upravlja prevoznik EU).

Dobrodošli v letalu Adrie Airways

Spoštovani potniki, vaše zadovoljstvo je naš uspeh. Da bi bilo potovanje z nami čim bolj prijetno, nam dovolite, da vas opozorimo na nekaj napotkov, ki so pomembni za vaše udobje in varnost pred letom, med poletom in po pristanku.

Pred letom

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{ Adria Airways }

Napotki za varnostZ najpomembnejšimi varnostnimi napotki vas bo pred poletom seznanilo naše kabinsko osebje, poleg tega pa boste v žepu sedeža pred sabo našli navo-dila za postopke v sili. Ker se glede na tip letala ta navodila razlikujejo, vas prosimo, da jih pred vsakim poletom pazljivo preučite.

Med vzletanjem in pristajanjem si morate pripeti varnostni pas, zaradi var-nosti in udobja pa vam priporočamo, da ostanete pripeti tudi med poletom.

Po pristanku počakajte na svojem sedežu, dokler se letalo popolnoma ne ustavi oziroma dokler ne ugasne znak za obvezno uporabo varnostnih pasov.

Kapitan letala lahko podeli potniku, ki se v letalu neprimerno vede, tako-imenovani RDEČI KARTON. Ta je namenjen vsem, ki s svojim vedenjem ovi-rajo delo kabinskega osebja, ne spoštujejo varnostnih pravil ali pa ogrožajo varnost in udobje sopotnikov. Napad na varnost zračnega prometa je kaznivo dejanje po 330. členu Kazenskega zakonika RS (KZ-1), ki za tovrstna dejanja predpisuje zaporno kazen.

Uporaba elektronskih napravV letalu ni dovoljeno uporabljati prenosnih telefonov (biti morajo popolnoma izključeni!), radijskih in televizijskih sprejemnikov, videoiger z daljinskim upravljanjem, računalniških tiskalnikov in drugih naprav, ki bi z elektroma-gnetnimi valovi lahko motile delovanje občutljivih letalskih instrumentov.

Druge elektronske naprave, kot so prenosni računalniki, CD in DVD pred-vajalniki ter žepni kalkulatorji, je dovoljeno uporabljati le med poletom (če ne povzročajo motenj), med vzletanjem in pristajanjem pa ne. Prosimo vas, da se pred uporabo elektronskih naprav posvetujete s kabinskim osebjem in dosle-dno upoštevate njihove napotke.

Nevarni predmetiPo mednarodnih varnostnih predpisih potnikom v letalu ni dovoljeno imeti (ne pri sebi ne v prtljagi) orožja in drugih nevarnih predmetov, kot so: vnetlji-ve tekočine, pločevinke s stisnjenim ali utekočinjenim plinom, lahko vnetlji-

ve snovi, vžigalice, ki niso označene kot varne, in podobno.

Počutje in zdravjeVašemu dobremu počutju sta namenjena ventil za uravnavanje dotoka zraka in lučka za branje, ki sta nameščena nad sedežem. Tam je tudi pozivni gumb, s katerim lahko po potrebi pokličete stevardeso.

V letalu je na voljo priročna lekarna, opremljena s sredstvi za nudenje prve pomoči. Med poletom lahko včasih v ušesih občutite neprijeten pritisk, do katerega prihaja zaradi sprememb višine in zračnega pritiska v letalu; težavo boste zlahka odpravili s poudarjenim požiranjem sline ali z nakazanim zeha-njem.

Da bi se izognili težavam z ožiljem, ko gre za dolg polet, vam svetujemo, da se večkrat sprehodite po potniški kabini, med sedenjem pa delate vaje za raztezanje celega telesa.

Alkohol na letaluV letalu ni dovoljeno uživanje alkoholnih pijač, ki jih prinesete s sabo. Kabinsko osebje ne sme streči alkoholnih pijač osebam, ki kažejo znake vinjenosti, in osebam, mlajšim od 18 let. Dobronamerno vas opozarjamo, da alkohol zaradi nekoliko nižjega zračnega pritiska med poletom deluje na telo hitreje in bolj intenzivno kot na tleh.

Zamujena, izgubljena ali poškodovana prtljagaČe bi med vašim potovanjem prišlo do nepravilnega ravnanja z vašo regi-strirano prtljago (velja tudi za prtljago, oddano pred letalom), zadevo takoj po prihodu prijavite na letališču pri ustrezni službi (Izgubljeno/Najdeno, Lost&Found, Arrival Service). Telefonska številka + 386 (0 ) 25 94 339.

Center za stike s potnikiV Adrijinem Centru za stike s potniki lahko dobite vse informacije o naši ponudbi in novostih, pa tudi pomoč ali nasvet.

Sem lahko potniki posredujete pritožbo ali odškodninski zahtevek, veseli pa bomo tudi pohvale. Na naš center se lahko obrnete osebno, pisno, po ele-ktronski pošti prc@adria.si ali po telefonu na brezplačno številko 080 13 03 za klice znotraj Slovenije oziroma kot doslej na telefonsko številko +386 (0)1 369 11 33.

Med letom

Po pristanku

Če ste jih kupili zapakirane v posebni zatesnjeni vrečki, te vrečke pred pre-gledom ne odpirajte, sicer lahko varnostno osebje na kontrolni točki njeno vsebino zaseže. (Če na letališču EU presedate na drug let, vrečke ne odpiraj-te pred varnostnim pregledom na transfernem letališču ali na zadnjem letali-šču, če presedate več kot enkrat.)

Če imate kakršnekoli dvome ali vprašanja, se pred potovanjem obrnite na svojega letalskega prevoznika ali potovalno agencijo.

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{ Adria Airways }Adria Airways Welcomes You Aboard

Economy and business classThe majority of Adria routes are served by the following aircraft: Airbus A320, Canadair Regional Jet CRJ-100/200LR and CRJ-900.

A business class ticket is issued according to the current business class tariff and is valid for one year. The ticket can be booked, paid for and picked up at any time and includes other advantages such as changing the date of travel without additional charge, a larger free luggage allowance, the use of business lounges at airports, etc.

Economy class is for passengers with economy class tickets, which are cheaper and carry certain restrictions.

Online ticketingThe cheapest and quickest way to book a flight and buy a ticket is to visit Adria's website at www.adria-airways.com. This only applies to flights operated by Adria. Online purchases are protected by a security certificate. Passengers receive their electronic tickets via e-mail.

If you require a ticket that will also include other carriers, please contact our Call Centre for Reservations and Ticket Sales on: 386 1 369 10 10 or 080 13 00.

Travel with an electronic ticketYou can travel with an electronic ticket on all Adria Airways scheduled flights.

On purchasing a ticket, passengers receive a passenger coupon and itiner-ary in an Adria Airways cover. You can also receive the document via e-mail and print it yourself. You must keep this document with you throughout the journey. At the check-in, present your passport or identity card. The check-in personnel will issue you with your boarding pass. Electronic documentation of the ticket sale means that the ticket status can be verified at any time. It also facilitates rapid transfer of data and reduces the chance of abuse. Most importantly, there is no danger of losing the boarding pass, since it is stored in electronic form.

Web Check-inAt Adria we are aware that every minute is precious when you are travelling. Especially when heavy traffic holds you up on the way to the airport. The web check-in service is a new service that lets you save time at the check-in desk: because you can check in from home or office – or anywhere with an Internet connection. You can check in as early as 24 hours and up to 60 minutes before your scheduled departure time. Web check-in is currently only available on selected Adria flights. In the coming months new destinations will gradually be added.

Restrictions on bringing food into the EUWe advise passengers to check the list of articles that may be brought into the EU before travelling. Strict controls of the import of meat, milk, fish, shellfish and products derived from them is necessary to protect people and animals from the diseases that they can transmit.

If customs officials discover prohibited foodstuffs of animal origin dur-ing routine luggage checks, they will be confiscated. The informative leaflet “What to bring home” is available on our website.

More information is available from the Veterinary Administration of the Republic of Slovenia or on its website http://www.vurs.gov.si/ under the sec-tion Public Announcements/Import of Foodstuffs for Personal Use.

Carry-on luggageFor your safety and comfort, we ask you to observe international rules that permit passengers to have one piece of carry-on luggage of a maximum size of 55 x 40 x 20 cm and a maximum weight of 8 kg.

Carry-on luggage should be placed in the overhead bins. Heavier items may be stored under the seat in front of you if possible.

We recommend that you take care when opening the overhead bins as items may have moved during the flight and may fall out.

If your flight is on a CRJ aircraft, larger items of carry-on luggage must be surrendered on boarding. They will be returned to you when you leave the aircraft.

EU airport security rulesIn 2006 the European Union adopted new security rules that restrict the amount of liquids that passengers can take aboard aircraft.

You are only allowed to take small quantities of liquids in your hand lug-gage. These liquids must be in individual containers with a maximum capac-ity of 100 millilitres each. These containers must be packed in one transpar-ent re-sealable plastic bag of not more than one litre capacity per passenger. Liquids include: water and other drinks, soups, syrups; creams, lotions and oils; perfumes; sprays; gels, including hair and shower gels; contents of pres-surised containers, including shaving foam, other foams and deodorants; pastes, including toothpaste; liquid-solid mixtures; mascara; any other item of similar consistency.

You can still: • pack liquids in bags that you check in – the new rules only affect hand lug-

gage;• carry in your hand luggage medicines and dietary requirements, including

baby foods, for use during the trip. You may be asked for proof that they are needed;

• buy liquids such as drinks and perfumes in an EU airport shop when located beyond the point where you show your boarding pass or on board an aircraft operated by an EU airline. If they are sold in a special sealed bag,

Dear passengers, your satisfaction is our success. In order to ensure that your Adria flight is as pleasant as possible, allow us to draw your attention to certain points that are important for your comfort and safety before take-off, during the flight and after landing.

Before take-off

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Safety informationOur cabin crew will give you important safety information before take-off. You will find instructions for emergency procedures in the pocket of the seat in front of you. Since these procedures differ depending on the type of air-craft, we ask you to read them carefully before every flight.

During take-off and landing you must fasten your seatbelt. For your own safety and comfort we also recommend that you leave it fastened during the flight. After landing, wait in your sight until the aircraft comes to a complete stop or until the seatbelt sign is switched off.

The captain can issue a passenger who acts inappropriately on the aircraft with what is called RED CARD. The red card is intended for anyone whose behaviour obstructs the work of the cabin crew, who does not observe safety instructions or who threatens the safety and comfort of passengers. Unacceptable behaviour on board an aircraft is violation of the law. Placing Air Traffic in Jeopardy is criminal offence in accordance with Article 330 of the Criminal Code of the Republic of Slovenia (KZ-1). Threatening criminal sanction is imprisonment.

Use of electronic devicesUse of the following devices is not permitted aboard the aircraft: mobile phones (they must be switched off!), radios and televisions, video games with remote control, computer printers and other devices emitting electro-magnetic waves which could interfere with sensitive aircraft systems.

Other electronic devices such as portable computers, CD and DVD players and pocket calculators may only be used during the flight (if they do not cause a disturbance). They may not be used during take-off and landing. Please check with the cabin crew before using electronic devices and be sure to follow their instructions.

Hazardous itemsUnder international safety regulations air passengers may not transport, either on their person or in their luggage, weapons and other hazardous items such as flammable liquids, compressed or liquefied gas cylinders, high-ly inflammable materials, matches (except safety matches), and so on.

Comfort and healthFor your comfort, an adjustable air vent and a reading light are located above your seat. There is also a button which you can use to call a member of the cabin crew if necessary.

The aircraft is equipped with a first aid kit. During the flight you may feel an uncomfortable pressure in your ears. This is caused by changes in altitude and the air pressure in the aircraft; swallowing or yawning will help relieve the discomfort.

In order to avoid vein problems associated with long flights, we advise you to take frequent walks up and down the cabin and to do stretching exercises for the whole body while seated.

Alcohol on boardConsuming alcoholic beverages that you have brought on board the aircraft yourself is not permitted. The cabin crew is not allowed to serve alcohol to passengers who show signs of intoxication or to passengers under 18 years old. Please bear in mind that because of the lower air pressure during flight, alcohol has a faster and stronger effect than on the ground.

Delayed, lost and damaged luggageIf problems occur with your checked luggage during your journey (also appli-es to luggage surrendered on boarding), contact the appropriate service as soon as you arrive at the airport (Lost & Found, Arrival Service, etc.)

Passenger Relations CentreAdria's Passenger Relations Centre provides you with news and information about our services and can also offer assistance and advice.

Passengers can submit complaints or compensation claims, and praise is always welcome. You can contact the Centre in person, in writing, by e-mail to prc@adria.si, by phoning the free telephone number 080 13 03 if calling from Slovenia, +386 1 369 11 33 if calling from outside Slovenia.

During the flight

After landing

do not open it before you are screened – otherwise the contents may be confiscated at the checkpoint. (If you transfer at an EU airport, do not open the bag before screening at your airport of transfer, or at the last one if you transfer more than once).

If you have any doubts, please ask your airline or travel agent in advance of travel.

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Ostale storitve/Other services

Prevoz tovoraBlagovna služba Adrie Airways odpremi vse pošiljke hitro in kakovostno do vseh letališč po svetu. V sodelovanju z drugimi prevozniki in s pomočjo raču-nalniško podprtega rezervacijskega sistema spremljamo vsako pošiljko od sprejema do predaje naslovniku.

Naša blagovna služba in prodajna zastopništva v tujini vam bodo z vese-ljem pomagala odpremiti oz. dostaviti blago po najhitrejši in cenovno naju-godnejši poti.

ADRIA CARGO, Letališče Jožeta Pučnika Ljubljana – Prevoz tovora,telefon: 04 259 43 40, faks: 04 202 30 30,e-pošta: jp.cargo@adria.si

CargoThe Adria Airways cargo service provides fast, high quality goods transport to every airport in the world. In conjunction with other carriers, and with the help of a computerised booking system, we monitor every item from recepti-on to delivery.

Our goods service and sales offices abroad will be happy to help you dis-patch or deliver goods by the fastest and most competitively priced route.

ADRIA CARGO, Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport – Cargo Transport,Telephone: + 386 (04) 259 43 40, Fax: + 386 (04) 202 30 30,e-mail: jp.cargo@adria.si

Vzdrževanje letalAdrio Airways oziroma zaposlene v sektorju vzdrževanja letal odlikuje vrhunsko tehnično znanje, ki temelji na več kot 40-letnih izkušnjah vzdrževa-nja letal proizvajalcev McDonnel Douglas, Airbus in Bombardier.

Vzdrževanje letal je ena izmed sekundarnih dejavnosti slovenskega letal-skega prevoznika Adria Airways, ki pa s časom predstavlja vse večji delež pri-hodkov rednega delovanja družbe.

Aircraft maintenance Adria Airways maintenance staff have superlative technical know-how deri-ving from more than 40 years' experience in maintaining McDonnell Douglas, Airbus and Bombardier aircraft.

Although aircraft maintenance is one of Adria's secondary activities, it is coming to represent an increasing share of the company's earnings.

Čarterski prevoziAdria Airways ponuja potnikom, agencijam, podjetjem in drugim letalskim prevoznikom poleg svojih rednih linij tudi čarterske polete iz Ljubljane in z vseh drugih (predvsem evropskih) letališč. Z vstopom v Evropsko unijo ponu-jamo agencijam, podjetjem in drugim letalskim prevoznikom tudi polete z vseh drugih evropskih letališč.

Odlikujejo nas zlasti prilagodljivost, ažurnost, visoka kakovost in točnost poletov.

E-pošta: charter@adria.si

ChartersIn additional to its scheduled services, Adria Airways offers charter flights from Ljubljana and other (mainly European) airports to passengers, agenci-es, companies and other carriers. Now that Slovenia is part of the European Union, we can also offer flights from all other European airports to agencies, companies and other carriers.

Adria charters offer flexibility, up-to-the-minute services, high quality and punctuality.

E-mail: charter@adria.si

Adria Airways

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Avio taxi - Panoramski letiZ letalom Piper Turbo Arrow PA-28R-201T s tremi sedeži za potnike lahko poletite do vseh večjih mest s špotnimi letališči v Sloveniji in do bližnjih leta-lišč sosednjih držav.

Za lete se lahko naročite po telefonu: 04 23 63 460 (Adria Airways Aviotaxi)ali 041 636 420 (tel. pilota).

Uradni prevoznik dogodkovKot sodobna družba razumemo potrebe poslovnega vsakdanjika, ki se vse pogosteje odvija v globalnem prostoru. Zato stopamo naproti tistim, ki orga-nizirajo konference, kongrese, sejme ali druge mednarodne dogodke tako, da postanemo njihov uradni ekskluzivni prevoznik, udeležencem ter organi-zatorju pa nudimo posebne ugodnosti. Preprosto, učinkovito in prilagojeno potrebam svojih uporabnikov poskrbimo za to, da dogodek poteka uspešno, udeleženci pa prispejo na cilj pravočasno, varno in zanesljivo. Kot članica združenja Star Alliancea lahko za večje mednarodne kongrese zagotovimo produkt »Conventions Plus™«, v sklopu katerega postane več članov združe-nja uradni prevoznik dogodka. Za vse nadaljnje informacije smo dosegljivi po elektronski pošti: events@adria.si.

Official events carrierAs a modern company we understand the needs of modern business, which increasingly takes place in the global arena. For this reason we are ideally placed to work with organisers of conferences, congresses, fairs and other international events by becoming their official exclusive carrier and offering discounted fares and other advantages to participants and organisers. With a simple, efficient approach adapted to the needs of our customers, we make sure that the event runs smoothly, with participants arriving at their desti-nation on time, safely and reliably. As a Star Alliance member we offer the Conventions Plus service for major international conferences, which effec-tively makes all Star Alliance members the official carrier for the event. For more information write to us at: events@adria.si.

Letalska šolaSpoznajte letenje v virtualnem svetu z našimi odličnimi inštruktorji.V simulatorju letenja – v 30 minutah za samo 49 EUR (ddv ni vključen v ceno) – boste spoznali osnove letenja.

Za rezervacijo termina in dodatne informacije o obisku simulatorja pošljite email na naslov: dare.jarc@adria.si.

Letenje je možno po plačilu vnaprej in predhodni rezervaciji termina.

Flight SchoolLearn to fly in a virtual world with our excellent instructors.In our flight simulator you can learn the basics of flying in just 30 minutes for a mere 49 euros (plus VAT).

To book a session and for more information about a visit to the simulator, e-mail us at the following address: dare.jarc@adria.si.

Booking essential. Payment in advance.

Aviotaxi – Panoramic flightsOur Piper Turbo Arrow PA-28R-201T, with its three passenger seats, can fly you to all major towns with sports airfields in Slovenia and to nearby air-ports in neighbouring countries.

To book flights, call us on: 04 23 63 460 (Adria Airways Aviotaxi)or 041 636 420 (pilot)

Letalska šola - Flight School +386 (0)4 25 94 280 | letalska.sola@adria.si | www.adria-airways.com

UČILNICA Z NAJLEPŠIM RAZGLEDOM

Nov simulator letenja v Adrijini letalski šoli

CLASSROOM WITH THE MOST BEAUTIFUL VIEWThe new flight simulator at Adria Airways flight school

* Po 60 urah letalske šole boste popolnoma razumeli to sporočilo. Po 30 minutah simulatorja letenja pa

vsaj povzetek.

* After 60 hours of flight school you will understand this message completely. And after just 30 minutes in the flight simulator, at least the essence of it.

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Adria Airways

Partnerska kartica Diners Club-AdriaPotniki s stalnim prebivališčem v Republiki Sloveniji se lahko odločite za skupno plačilno kartico Diners Cluba in Adrie Airways. Z uporabo partnerske plačilne kartice Diners Club-Adria lahko zbirate milje in koristite nagradne vozovnice in druge ugodnosti v programu Miles & More. Vsak porabljen evro vam bo prinesel 1 miljo. Dogovor, sklenjen med Adrio in klubom Miles & More, prinaša imetnikom par-tnerske kartice pomembno dodatno ugodnost: milje, zbrane z nakupi s plačilno kartico Diners Club-Adria, ne zapadejo, če ste vsaj tri mesece član, opravite z njo vsak mesec vsaj en nakup in račune poravnavate v roku. Kartica pa vam odpira vrata in nudi brezplačne storitve tudi v več kot 130 letaliških salonih po vsem svetu, kjer boste lahko v miru počakali na odhod svojega letala, brez-plačno prelistali časopis, se osvežili z napitki, telefonirali ali poslali faks.

Informacije: telefon 080 13 45, www.dinersclub.si, info@dinersclub.si

Star Alliance partnerstvoAdria Airways je letalski prevoznik z več kot 48-letnimi izkušnjami v čar-terskem in rednem prometu. Uspešno sodeluje v evropskih integracijskih tokovih in se partnersko povezuje z drugimi letalskimi prevozniki. Decembra 2004 se je Adria kot regionalna članica pridružila največjemu globalnemu združenju letalskih prevoznikov Star Allianceu, z januarjem 2010 pa je napre-dovala v polnopravno članico združenja.

Potnikom tako zagotavljamo vse prednosti, ki jih prinaša izboljšan dostop do svetovnega omrežja prevoznikov, združenih v Star Allianceu. V povezavi s partnerji vam omogočamo dostop do svetovne mreže poletov 26 letalskih prevoznikov, ki z več kot 19.700 leti dnevno povezujejo 1077 destinacij v 175 državah.

Poleg tega so vam na voljo ugodnosti, ki jih ponujajo prevozniki člani Star Alliancea, kot so: prijava na let do končne destinacije, priznavanje statusa, vstop v letališke salone ter zbiranje in uveljavljanje točk ali milj v okviru pro-gramov za pogoste potnike. Za številne destinacije po svetu so vam na voljo potovanja po ugodnejših cenah in posebna ponudba Star Alliancea Round the World – potovanje okoli sveta. Za več informacij smo vam na voljo na naših prodajnih mestih.

Diners Club-Adria Partner CardPassengers with permanent residence in Slovenia can obtain the joint Diners Club and Adria Airways charge card. By using the Diners Club – Adria Airways charge card, you can collect miles and enjoy bonus tickets and other

privileges in the Miles & More programme. Every euro spent will give you one mile. The agreement between Adria and Miles & More brings partner card holders an important additional benefit: miles collected through purchases using the Diners Club-Adria payment card will not lapse if you have been a member for at least three months, you use the card for at least one purchase each month and you settle your account balance on time. At the same time, the card opens the door to free services in more

than 130 airport lounges around the world, where you can await your departure in tranquillity, browse through newspapers, enjoy a refreshing drink, make phone calls or send faxes.

Information: Telephone: 080 13 45, www.dinersclub.si, info@dinersclub.si

Star Alliance partnershipAdria Airways has more than 48 years of experience in operating both char-ter and scheduled flights. We are successfully participating in the process of European integration and have established partnership arrangements with other air carriers. In December 2004 Adria joined the Star Alliance, the world's largest airline alliance, as a regional member. It is due to become a full mem-ber in January 2010.

Our customers now benefit from improved access to the world-wide Star Alliance network. In connection with our partners, we offer access to a global network of flights on 26 airlines, which offer more than 19,700 flights daily serving 1077 destinations in 175 countries.

Moreover, our passengers enjoy customer benefits offered by Star Alliance member carriers, such as through check-in, status recognition, lounge access, frequent flyer accrual and redemption. Reduced-price flights are available for numerous destinations throughout the world, along with the Star Alliance Round-the-World special offer. We will be glad to provide details at any Adria sales outlet.

Klubi zvestobe/Loyalty Clubs

Star Alliance

than 130 airport lounges around the world, where you can

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Dobrodošli v Miles & More Razlog več, da poletite z Adrio AirwaysAdria Airways nudi svojim pogostim potnikom program Miles & More in jim s tem omogoča pestrost zbiranja in uporabljanja milj v celotni mreži poletov članic Star Alliancea. Sem spadajo tudi vse redne proge Adrie Airways.

Prijava v klubV klub se lahko prijavite s prijavnico, ki jo dobite na vseh prodajnih mestih in v letalih Adrie Airways, ali pa to storite na naslovu www.adria-airways.com na naših spletnih straneh.

Zbiranje miljMilje lahko zbirate na celotni mreži poletov članic Star Alliancea. Dodatne milje lahko zbirate z bivanjem v hotelih, z najemom vozil, telefoniranjem, nakupi v določenih trgovinah in z uporabo kreditnih kartic.

Člani Miles & More v Sloveniji bodo milje pridobili tudi s plačilno kartico Diners Club-Adria. Vsak nakup v vrednosti 1 EUR vam bo prinesel eno miljo. Milje, zbrane z nakupi s plačilno kartico Diners Club - Adria, ne zapadejo, če ste vsaj tri mesece član, opravite z njo vsak mesec vsaj en nakup in račune poravnavate v roku.

Poleg zbiranja milj imajo člani Miles & More še dodatne ugodnosti, kot so prednost na čakalnih listah, prevoz večje količine prtljage idr.

Veljavnost zbranih milj je tri leta.

Koriščenje miljZbrane milje lahko uporabite za številne nagrade: brezplačne vozovnice na progah članic Star Alliancea, potovanje v višjem razredu, počitniška potovanja, nakup različnih artiklov.

Članske karticeZ včlanitvijo postanete član kluba in imetnik osnovne kartice. Doseženo število zahtevanih milj, zbranih v koledarskem letu, zagotavlja višje nivoje članstva, kot so: srebrni član ali Frequent Traveller, zlati član ali Senator in HON Circle Member. Višji nivo članstva vam prinese posebne ugodnosti.

Člansko kartico imejte vedno pri roki, potrebujete jo za beleženje milj, uveljavljanje ugodnosti in naročanje nagrad.

Dobrodošli na poletih Adrie Airways, članice združenja Star Alliance!

Informacije o zbranih miljah, novostih v klubu, naročila nagradnih vozovnic in drugih nagrad v klicnem centru Miles & More dobite na tel. št. (0)40 747 440 ali na naslovu www.adria.si. Navesti morate člansko številko in PIN številko. V delovnem času od 8. do 18. ure vam bodo informacije na voljo v slovenskem jeziku, kasneje v angleškem ali nemškem.

Welcome to Miles & More One more reason for flying Adria AirwaysAdria Airways is offering its frequent flyers the Miles & More programme, which makes available a variety of ways to collect and use miles on the entire flight network of Star Alliance members. All Adria Airways scheduled routes are included in this network.

Club registrationYou can join the club by filling in the registration form available at all sales offices and on board Adria Airways aircraft, or by registering on-line at our website, www.adria-airways.com.

Collecting milesYou can collect miles within the entire Star Alliance network. You can also collect additional miles through hotel stays, car rental, telephone calls, purchases at selected shops and using your credit cards.

Miles & More members in Slovenia also receive miles when you use the Diners Club-Adria charge card. Every EUR charged earns you 1 mile. Miles collected through purchases using the Diners Club-Adria payment card will not lapse if you have been a member for at least three months, you use the card for at least one purchase each month and you settle your account balance on time.

In addition to collecting miles, Miles & More members enjoy additional benefits such as priority on waiting lists, excess baggage allowance and so on.

Miles are valid for three years.

Using milesYou can use the miles you have accumulated for various benefits: free tickets on Star Alliance member routes, upgrades to business class, holiday travel and various purchases.

Membership cards You become a club member as soon as you join. Accumulating the required number of miles in a calendar year leads to higher levels of membership: silver member or Frequent Traveller, or gold member or Senator, or HON Circle Member. A higher level of membership offers you special benefits.

Always have your membership card on hand, because you’ll need it to register miles, claim benefits and request awards.

Welcome aboard Adria Airways, a Star Alliance member!

For information on miles, Club news, to order free tickets or other benefits, call the Miles & More call centre at +386 40 747 440 or visit our website at www.adria-airways.com. You’ll be asked for your membership number and PIN. We’ll be happy to take your calls in Slovene from 8 am to 6 pm, and service is also available in English and German outside these hours.

Prodaja vozovnic in rezervacije Ticket Offices and Booking

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www.adria - airways.com

Klicni center: telefon 00386 (0)1 36 91 010

Brezplačna številka v Sloveniji: 080 13 00

LJUBLJANAKuzmičeva 71000 LjubljanaTel.: +386 (0)1 36 91 010 E-mail: booking@adria.si

Poslovalnice / Sales offices:

LJUBLJANAGosposvetska 61000 LjubljanaKlicni center: 36 91 010, 080 13 00Tel.: +386 (0)1 23 91 910 Fax: +386 (0)1 23 21 668E-mail: adr.gosposvetska@adria.si

Letališče Jožeta Pučnika LJUBLJANALJUBLJANA Jože Pučnik AirportAdria Airways Sales OfficeKlicni center: 36 91 010, 080 13 00Tel.: +386 (0)4 25 94 245Fax: +386 (0)4 23 63 461E-mail: adr.prodaja@adria.si

AMSTERDAMAdria Airways, NetherlandsP.O. Box 756441118 ZR Schiphol TriportTel.: +31 20 625 11 22Fax: +32 2 753 23 37E-mail: adr.amstown@adria.si

Airport Ticketing Desk Amsterdam Schiphol AirportGlobeground Ticketing Desk Terminal 3, opposite check-in row 20 Tel.: +31 20 79 52 600 Fax: +31 20 79 52 601 E-mail: adr.amsariport@adria.si

ATHENSAdria Airways, General Sales AgentZEUS KOMPAS S.A., 572 Vouliagmenis Ave & Karaiskaki, 164 52 Athina ArgiroupolisTel.: + 30 21 09 94 7263,Fax: + 30 21 09 94 7288,E-mail: adr.athens@adria.si

BARCELONA Adria Airways, General Sales AgentKompas SpainC/ Paris, 162-164 Entlo 2a08036 Barcelona Tel.: + 34 93 246 67 77Fax: +34 93 245 41 88E-mail: adr.barcelona@adria.si

BELGRADEAdria Airways, General Sales Agent OKI AIR INTERNATIONALAirport “Nikola Tesla”11180 Belgrade 59 Tel/Fax: +381 11 2286457,2286458, 2097457E-mail: okiairbeg@oki.me,adr.beograd@adria.si

BRUSSELS Adria AirwaysBrussels Airport – Box 41930 ZaventemTel.: +32 (0)2 75 32 336Fax: +32 (0)2 75 32 337E-mail: adr.brussels@adria.siAdria Airways Ticket Desk Airport Zaventem / Brussels Tel.: +32 (0)2 75 32 337

COPENHAGENAdria AirwaysRepresentative and InformationAntello AB, Tings Gatan 2256 56 Helsingborg, SWEDENTel.: +46 (0)42 28 47 78Fax: +46 (0)42 14 47 78Mobil: +46 708 28 47 78 E-mail: adr.copenhagen@adria.si

Adria Airways Airport Ticket DeskCopenhagen AirportTerminal 2, Floor 2, Office 2302770 Kastrup, DenmarkTel. & Fax: +45 (0)32 51 59 59Mobil: +46 708 28 47 78E-mail: adr.copenhagen@adria.si

FRANKFURTAdria Airways Frankfurt Airport Terminal 1, Building 201 Room 201. 4043/4044P.O.Box 039, 60549 Frankfurt am MainTel.: +49 (0)69 269 56 720, 269 56 721 Fax: +49 (0)69 269 56 730E-mail: adr.frankfurt@adria.si

Adria Airways Airport Ticket DeskFrankfurt Airport, Terminal 1, Hall B Sales Desk 307P.O.Box 039, 60549 Frankfurt am Main Tel. +49 (0)69 269 56 722

ISTANBULAdria Airways General Sales AgentOrdu Cad No. 206/1 34470 Laleli, IstanbulTel.: +90 (0)212 51 24 232Fax: +90 (0)212 51 24 234, 51 25 436E-mail: adr.istanbul@adria.si

KIEVAviarepsChervonoarmijska st. 9/2Office number 201004 Kiev, UkraineTel.: +38 044 287 07 47Fax: +38 044 490 65 04E-mail: jp.ukraine@aviareps.com

Adria AirwaysBorispol International AirportTicketing agent: Aquavita Tel.: +38 044 230 00 49, 230 00 50Fax: +38 044 230 00 48E-mail: adr.kievairport@adria.si

LONDONAdria Airways49 Conduit StreetLondon W1S 2YSTel.: +44 (0)20 7 73 44 630,7 43 70 143Fax: +44 (0)20 7 28 75 476E-mail: adr.london@adria.si

Adria AirwaysLondon Gatwick AirportTicketing agent: Skybreak North Terminal, Zone ATel.: +44 (0)12 9 35 07 182Fax: +44 (0)12 9 36 09 010Reservations:Tel.: +44 (0)12 9 35 55 707

Flight Supervision: KLA Ltd. (Airline Services)Tel.: +44 (0)12 9 35 68 004Fax: +44 (0)12 9 35 67 005Mobil: +44 7 7810 88 00 77

MADRIDProsimo obrnite se na predstavništvo v Barceloni.Please contact our GSA in Barcelona.Tel.: + 34 91 575 0628

MOSCOWAdria Airways Derbenevskaja 4113 114 MoscowTel.: +7 495 727 08 85 Fax: +7 495 727 08 88E-mail: adr.moscow@adria.si

Adria AirwaysSheremetyevo Airport6th Floor, Room Nr. 42 (6.42)Tel.: +7 495 578 80 24

MUNICHAdria AirwaysMunich Airport, Terminal 2Reisemarkt SüdEbene 03, Raum 6738 (counter 355 & 356)85356 München – FlughafenP.O. Box 241233, 85334 MünchenTel.: +49 (89) 97 59 11 91 Fax: +49 (89) 97 59 11 96adr.munich@adria.si

OSLOAdria AirwaysRepresentative and InformationAntello AB, Tings Gatan 2256 56 Helsingborg, SwedenTel.: +46 (0)42 28 4778Fax: +46 0)42 14 4778Mobil: +46 708 28 4778E-mail: adr.oslo@adria.si

PARISAdria Airways94 rue Saint Lazare75009 ParisStopnišče A, II. nadstropjeStaircase A, 2nd floor

Tel.: +33 (0)1 47 42 95 00 Fax: +33 (0)1 47 42 00 67 E-mail: adr.paris@adria.si

PODGORICAAdria Airways, General Sales AgentOki Air International Ivana Vujoševića 4681000 PodgoricaTel.: +382 (0) 20 201 201Tel. & Fax: +382 (0) 20 241 154Mobil: +382 (0)67 24 11 54E-mail: adr.podgorica@adria.si

Adria Airways Ticket Office Podgorica Airport OKI AIR INTERNATIONALTel. & Fax: +382 (0) 20 623 232Mobil: +382 (0)67 24 11 54E-mail: adr.podgorica@adria.si

PRISTINA Adria Airways, General Sales AgentAdria Airways Kosovo L. L. CQamil Hoxha Nr. 12, 38000 PristinaTel.: +381 (0)38 246 746Tel. & Fax: +381 (0)38 246 747Mobil: +377 44 16 50 84E-mail: adr.pristina@adria.si

Pristina Airport Ticket officeTel. & Fax 381 (0)38 54 84 37Mobil: + 377 44 50 12 41

SARAJEVOAdria AirwaysRepresentative and InformationFerhadija 2371000 SarajevoTel.: +387 (0)33 23 21 25, 23 21 26 Fax: +387 (0)33 23 36 92E-mail: adria@bih.net.ba

Adria Airways Airport Ticket DeskSarajevo International AirportTel. & Fax: +387 33 464 331E-mail: adr.sarajevo@adria.si

SKOPJEAdria AirwaysUlica Dame Gruev, Gradski Zid, blok 4/8 1000 SkopjeTel.: +389 (0)2 31 17 009, 32 29 975Fax: +389 (0)2 31 65 531E-mail: adr.skopje@adria.si

Adria Airways Airport Ticket Office Skopje AirportTel. +389 (0)2 25 50 133

STOCKHOLMAdria AirwaysRepresentative and InformationAntello AB, Tings Gatan 2256 56 Helsingborg, SwedenTel.: +46 (0)42 28 4778Fax: +46 0)42 14 4778Mobil.: +46 708 28 4778E-mail: adr.stockholm@adria.si

TEL AVIVAdria AirwaysMirus Services (1996) Ltd. General Sales Agent8 Mendele Str.Tel Aviv 63432Tel.: +972 (0)3 52 23 161Fax: +972 (0)3 52 40 895Adria Airways Ticket DeskBen Gurion AirportLaufer Aviation Ltd.Tel.: +972 (0)3 97 74 300Fax: +972 (0)3 97 12 022

TIRANAAdria Airways AlbaniaEuropian Trade CenterStreet bajram Curri No. 19Town OfficeTel.: +355 4 227 4666Tel. & Fax: +355 4 227 2666Mobil Off.: +355 6 94076614AirportTel. & Fax: +355 4 238 1911Mobil in Rinas Apt.: +355 6 94076611E-mail: adr.tirana@adria.si

VIENNAAdria Airways Airport Ticket Office1300 Vienna AirportTel.: +43 (0)1 70 07 36 913Fax: +43 (0)1 70 07 36 914E-mail: adr.vienna@adria.si

WARSAWAdria Airways, General Sales AgentGLOBAIR Polska Sp z o.o.Marszalkowska St. 28,office number 1U-35Warsaw 00-576Tel: +48 (022) 696 85 20Fax: +48 ( 022) 696 85 24Mobile: +48 606 12 319 E-mail: adr.warsaw@adria.siwww.globairgroup.com

ZAGREBAdria AirwaysPraška 910000 ZagrebTel.: +385 (0)1 48 10 011, 48 10 016Fax: +385 (0)1 48 10 008E-mail: adr.zagreb@adria.si

ZÜRICHAdria AirwaysLoewenstrasse 54/II.8001 ZürichTel.: +41 (0)44 212 63 93Fax: +41 (0)44 212 52 66E-mail: adr.zurich@adria.si

Adria Airways Airport Ticket Office Zürich AirportTerminal B-2-521Tel.: +41 (0)43 81 64 437