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    SPINNING

    Ring Spinning:

    In the Ring spinning, yarn is formed from cotton fibres that are twisted together after

    being drafted by passing between a set of top and bottom rollers. The yarn then is

    wrapped on a bobbin as it spins on a spindle by use of a traveller. The relationship

    between roll speeds, traveller speeds and spindle speeds controls the amount of twist in

    the yarn.

    Flow Chart of spinning process:

    Removal & Sliver Pr

    BlowRoom

    Cotton Tuft

    Opening, Cleaning and Blending

    Card

    Sliver

    Individualization of fibers, neps

    Removal & Sliver Preparation

    Pre Drawframe

    BreakerSliver

    Parallisation & Improvement in sliver

    Unilap

    Comber Lap

    To prepare Lap sheet suitable for combing

    Comber

    Combed Sliver

    Short fiber removal, individualization & Sliver

    preparation

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    Post Drawframe

    FinisherSliver

    Parallisation & Improvement in Sliver Quality

    Speedframe

    Roving Bobbin

    To prepare a suitable Roving for Ringframe by inserting

    twist

    Ringframe

    Yarn

    To produce Yarn on smaller package

    Random Winding

    ClearedY

    arn

    To prepare bigger package after Removing faults

    T.F.O

    Double Yarn

    To impart twist in assemble yarn & Produce bigger

    acka e

    Singeing

    Singed Yarn

    To remove the protruding fibers on the yarn surface

    Assembly Winding

    Assembled Yarn

    To assemble the yarn

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    BLOWROOM:-

    Blowroom is the first step of yarn production in the spinning mills. Following are the

    objective of objective of blowroom department

    Opening

    Cleaning

    Mixing or blending

    Microdust removal

    Uniform feed to the carding machine

    Recycling the waste

    Flow chart of blowroom operation:

    BLANDOMAT

    SPARK DETECTOR

    METAL DETECTOR

    BALE OPENER

    AFC

    ASTA

    LOPTEX

    CVT4 CVT4

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    BLENDOMAT

    Opening of bales and transporting them to the downstream machine by suction

    after blending,cutting and plucking of small tufts.The working process is controlled by a

    microcomputer and is fully automatic. The bales are placed manually on the floor in the

    marked working area. BDT 019 travels over the bales and holds back the material against thepull of the toothed disc rolls. The material protrudes between the bars of the grids. The

    supporting rollers rotate at a peripheral speed, which is identical to disc rolls or grids.

    The teeth of the toothed disc rolls pluck the bulging tufts from the surface of the bales and

    fly them into the air stream, which removes the tufts by suction. Machine make:

    Trutzschler (Germany)

    Model no. : BDT 019/2300

    Bale layout: Both sides (2 rows)

    Number of bales: 50-60

    Weight of bales: 110-167 kg

    Mode of bale laying: Manual

    Material in process: Cotton with seeds and impurities

    BALE OPENER (BO)

    Objective of this matchine is to clean cotton fibers.Material is fed by the

    Feed Lattice and stored in the Reserve Tank and then transferred to the Feed Table that

    supplies material to the Spiked Lattice, which then passes it o nto the Evener and Stripper

    rollers. The Evener roller brushes the excess material of the spiked lattice and tosses it back

    to the Mixing Chamber where a Cleaning roller is installed.Striper roller releases the material

    from the Spiked Lattice.

    Model no.: BOA 046

    Major parts: Feed lattice, inclined spike lattice, perforated condense

    Gauge: Distance b/w inclined lattice and opening roller is 20 mm.

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    CLEANING AND MIXING:-

    If cotton is opened well in the opening process, cleaning becomes easier

    because opened cotton has more surface area, therefore cleaning is more efficient.

    Due to machine harvesting, cotton contains more and more impurities, which furthermore

    are shattered by hard ginning. Therefore cleaning is always an important basic operation.Incleaning, it is necessary to release the adhesion of the impurities to the fi bers and to give the

    particles an opportunity to separate from the stock. The former is achieved mostly by picking

    of flocks; the latter is achieved by leading the flocks over a grid.

    DUST REMOVAL:-

    Cotton contains very l ittle dust before ginning. Dust is therefore caused by

    working of the material on the machine. New dust is being created through shattering of

    impurities and smashing and rubbing of fibers. But dust removal is not simple. Dustparticles are very light and therefore float with the cotton in the transport stream.

    Furthermore the particles adhere quite strongly to the fibers. Machines for this process

    are:-

    AXI-FLOW CLEANER

    MULTIPLE MIXER

    ASTA

    LOPTEX

    CVT

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    AFC (AXI-FLOW CLEANER):

    Objective of AFC is separation of heavy parts (impurities) from cotton.The

    opened up mass of fiber rotates around two cleaning rollers (beaters) with cylinder steel pins

    which beat the fiber material, allowing the coarse particles to be separated.The time (in

    hours) of the passage of material can be regulated by a detector in the in-jet and thedeflector above the beater. The air volume of the extractor machine and the input time can

    be regulated with a flash on screen at the outlet.The coarse particles drop through adjustable

    grids and are made available by means of a wheel lock.The cleaned tufts are carried through

    outlet pipes to the downstream machine with the help of air flow.

    Machine details:

    Machine make: Trutzschler (Germany)

    Model: 052-2502

    Pressure: 50-75 bar

    Major parts: Two metallic perforated cylinders and waste collector

    MPM 10 (MULTIPLE MIXER):

    Objective 0f multiple mixer homogeneous mixing of cotton fibers .Material from different heights

    are fed to ensure proper mixing.

    Machine details:

    Make: Trutzschler

    Model: 10236

    Motor speed: 1750 rpm

    Opening rolls speed: 800-850 m/min

    Number of chambers: 10

    Output: 30-36%

    Pressure: 350 bar

    Major parts: This machine consists of material feed, reserve tank, reserve tank

    flaps, optical sensor,delivery,rollers, and material suction funnel.

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    ASTA

    Objective of ASTA Heavy trash separation from cotton. The air

    and material enters the separation tank in a stream via upper channel and strikes the

    baffle plates. Heavy particles are removed away from the lighter fibers by negative

    acceleration and the force of gravity. The lower channel generates an opulent air

    stream in the area of baffle plates, which guides the fibers to the outlet.

    Machine details:

    Make: Trutzschler (Germany)

    Model: ASTA 800

    Principle: principle of aerodynamics

    LOPTEX

    Machine details:

    CVT;-

    Main operation is Separation of residual trash from cotton. From ASTA

    the material is carrie twodifferent lines BS 1 and BS 2. The feedrollers throw the material and

    transfer it to the first roller where the opening takes place less aggressively. The material isthen passed through other rollers sequentially which beat the cotton and hence remove the

    residual trash.

    Make: Trutzschler (Germany)

    Model: Optasonic t 120

    Voltage: 415 v

    Frequency: 50 Hz

    Power: 1.5 KwA

    Pressure: 0.6 to 0.8 M Pa

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    Machine details:

    Make: Trutzschler (Germany)

    Model: CVT-4 1600

    No. of machines: 2

    Cleaning efficiency: 18-30%

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    Feeding process to card

    There are two process to feed the raw material that is open fibre to carding machine

    1. scutcher lap

    Linear density of the lap is very good and it is easier to maintain(uniformity)

    The whole installation is very flexible

    Deviations in card output will be nil, as laps can be rejected

    Investment cost and maintenance cost is less

    Transportation of lap needs more manual efforts( more labour)

    2. Flock feed system

    High performance in carding due to high degree of openness of feed web

    Labour requirement is less due to no lap transportation and lap change in

    cards

    Flock feeding is the only solution for high production cards

    Linear density of the web fed to the card is not as good as lap

    Installation is not flexible

    Autoleveller is a must, hence investment cost and maintenance cost is more

    Machine details:

    Number of machines: 14

    Make: Trutzschler (Germany)

    Model: DK 803

    Humidity: 56.5%

    Temperature: 33.3 degree Celsius

    Production: 80 kg/hr.

    Card cleaning efficiency: 62-67%

    CV%: 1.2-1.7

    Front Delivery speed: 210-240 meters per minute

    Pressure: 325 pas

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    Licker in:

    Diameter: 102 mm

    Speed: 1960 rpm

    Cylinder:

    Diameter: 1290 mm

    Speed: 600 rpm

    Doffer:

    Diameter: 700 mm

    Speed: 96 rpm

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    COMBING:-

    Combing is an optional process introduced into the spinning of finer and high -

    quality yarns from finer cotton for great evenness, smoothness, fineness and strength. For

    coarser cotton fibers, the combing operation is usually omitted. This operation combines several

    card slivers which are drawn into the comber and, once again, spread into a web. The fibers

    continue to be cleaned and straightened as the web is formed. Short fibers and all residual non -

    lint materials are removed.

    It influences the following yarn quality

    Yarn evenness

    Strength

    Cleanness

    Smoothness

    Visual appearance

    Objectives of combing:

    Removal of short fibers

    Removal of remaining impurities

    3 .Removal of neps

    FLOWCHART OF OPERATION IN A COMBER:-

    Feeding of lap to machine

    Through nipper griped by fed lap

    Lap is combed by circular comb

    Detatchin roller ri the combed la

    Mean while top roller comes into action for further

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    Machine details:

    Make: Reiter

    Model: Reiter E60

    Input 8 laps

    Output 2 cans

    Machines 15

    Feed cotton laps:

    Width 300mm

    Diameter 600mm

    Fixed quantity of laps 60 - 70gsm

    Length of cotton Spinning fiber: 25 - 51mm

    Fixed output of combed strips: 3 - 6gsm

    Pressure of compressed air: 0.6 - 0.8MPa

    Air consumption: 1.5Nm3/h

    Total power: 14.25 KW

    Dimensions: 7,230 x 2,120 x 1,700mm

    Lap

    Roller

    Comb

    Combed sliver

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    UNILAP

    Objective of unilapis formation of laps. The laps produced in the

    unilap machine are stored on creels which can be transported to the combing machines .

    Machine details:

    Make: Rieter

    Model: E 30

    No. of machines: 3

    Major parts: Creel, Scanning roller, Drafting zone, Delivery roller and sliver deposit

    Input cans: 26

    Output laps: 1

    Length of lap: 300 meter.

    Speed: 650 m/min.

    Efficiency: 75%

    Temperature: 31 degree Celsius

    RH%: 50%

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    Drawframe

    Drawing follows either combing or carding, depending on the

    quality of yarn desired. Several strands of sliver (typically eight to ten) from different carding

    machines are combined and conveyed to the drawing machine, where they are pulled

    together and drawn out into a new sliver no larger than one of the original single slivers. The

    loose, rope like strand of fibers resulting from this process is called drawn sliver. The purpose

    of drawing is to make yarn more uniform by combing and elongating multiple slivers, thus

    eliminating the randomly occurring defects.After drawing, rotor yarns go directly to the

    spinning frame.

    Objectives of drawframe:

    Hooks created in the card are straightened

    Through doubling the slivers are made even and results in homogenization.

    Through draft fibers get parallelized

    Through the suction ,intensive dust removal is achieved

    From the cards the material passes to the draw frames, where the thick and thin areas are

    removed, i.e. the sliver is smoothened. Sliver quality is improved and the sliver is doubled,

    drafted, parallelized, and leveled. Here three or more slivers are blended and one sliver of

    same diameter is formed.

    Breaker draw frame:

    Process is carried out after carding and mainly doubling of yarn takes place

    Machine details:

    Input 8 cans

    Output 1 can

    Mainly 50s count used

    Machines used Reiter (7 m/cs)

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    Doubling (6) Drafting (6)

    Finisher draw frame:- Auto leveling as well as doubling takes place

    Machine details:

    Auto levelling as well as doubling takes place.

    Input 6 cans

    Output 1 can

    Speed 250 mt. /min.

    Machines used: Reiter (7 machines)

    Model: RSB 1 draw frame

    1 operator required for all the machines

    Doubling (6) Drafting (6)

    15 min

    16 Cans from

    card

    Twin Delivery

    3 min

    8 cans from

    breaker draw

    frame

    Single

    Delivery

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    SPEEDFRAME

    Thedraw frame sliver is drafted into a thin material called Rove and a

    minor amount of twist is imparted to it to withstand loads in further process . As the roving

    strand is ready to leave the roving frame, a slight twist is imparted to hold the fibers

    together. Roving machine is complicated, liable to faults, causes defects, adds to productioncosts and delivers a product that is sensitive in both winding and unwinding. This machine is

    forced to use by the spinner.

    OBJECTIVE OF ROVING FRAME:

    Attenuation- drafting the sliver into roving

    twisting the drafted strand

    winding the twisted roving on a bobbin

    Drafting is the process of elongating a strand of fibers, with the

    intention of orienting the fibers in the direction of th e strand and reducing its linear density.

    In a roller drafting system, the strand is passed through a series of sets of rollers, each

    successive set rotating at a surface velocity greater than that of the previous set. During

    drafting, the fibers must be moved relative to each other as uniformly as possible by

    overcoming the the cohesive friction.

    The factors affecting roving strength are as follows:-

    the length, fineness, and parallelization of fibers

    the amount of twist and compactness of the roving

    the uniformity of twist and linear density.

    Machine detail:

    Machine : Toyota FL16

    No. of machines: 13

    Speed: 900 rpm

    Efficiency: 82-87%

    Power consumption: 5.5 kW

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    RING FRAME

    The two most widely used processes for making cotton yarn

    are ring spinning and rotor spinning, ring spinning is used for high quality, smaller yarns

    (shirtings); rotor spinning is typically used for larger yarns (denim).Most combed yarns are

    ring spun. It is the process where the actual yarn formation takes place. Here the Rove

    material is again drafted to a very thin strand and considerable twist is imparted to it to get

    the final yarn.

    Objective of ringframe:

    To draft the roving until the required fineness is achieved

    To impart strength to the fiber, by inserting twist

    To wind up the twisted strand (yarn) in a form suitable for storage , transportation

    and further processing.

    Machine details:

    Machine used: Laxmi LG551

    No. of machines: 33

    No. of spindles per machine: 512

    Speed: 18500 rpm

    Efficiency: 85%

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    Winding

    It is the process wherein the single small yarn package formed at Ring Frame stage is

    converted into a big package called cone. In this conversion process, single yarn packages

    from Ring Frame are taken and continuously unwound and wound on a package called cone

    and during this winding process, faults in the yarn will be cleared . Winding process serves to

    achieve additional objectives made necessary by the requirements of the subsequent

    processing stages.

    Objective of winding

    Extraction of all disturbing yarn faults such as the short, long thick ,long thin,

    spinners doubles, etc

    Manufacture of cones having good drawing - off properties and with as long a

    length of yarn as possible

    paraffin waxing of the yarn during the winding process

    introduction into the yarn of a minimum number of knots

    achievement of a high machine efficiency i.e. high production level

    T.F.O.

    Two for one means there are two twist is inserted in one revolution. This is used for plying or

    cabling yarns.

    Machine detail:

    Machine used: SaurerVTS-09 Volkman

    No. of machines: 18(per machine 2200 spindle)

    No. of cones: 200 per machine

    Speed: 900 rpm

    Efficiency: 96%

    Power consumption: 30 kW

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    YARN SINGEING

    Singeing is a process applied to yarns and to produce an even

    surface by burning off protruding fibers or hairs from the surface of yarn. This is

    accomplished by passing the yarn over a gas flame at a speed sufficient to burn away the

    protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn . The singeing of yarns is done on

    special machines, on which singeing and winding are done simultaneously.

    Machine detail:

    Make: PEASS Industrial Engg. and SSM (Scharer SchweiterMettler)

    No. Of machine: 1 PIE and 1 SSM

    Speed : depends on count ranges from 1000 -1500mpm

    No. Of spindle: 60 in PIE and 40 in SSM

    Spinning related Defects:

    Warp Slub

    Weft Slub

    Thick end

    Coarse/fine weft Weft bar

    Moir

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    WARPING

    Warping is the process of transferring multiple yarns from individual

    yarn packages onto a single package assembly.

    There are two types:

    Direct

    Indirect

    In case of direct warping Normally, yarns are collected in a sheet form where

    the yarns lie parallel to each other and in the same plane onto a beam, which is a

    cylindrical barrel with side flanges. In indirect warping the yarns from the yarn packages

    are wound onto an intermediate cylinder (mill) in many parallel groups with a specified

    density, and then they are back wound onto the warp beam.

    The main objectives of warping are :

    To form a pre-determined number of single end package such as cone,pirn or cheese

    or a continuous sheet of yarn of specified length and width.

    The individual ends of sheets should be spaced uniformly across its full width.

    All ends of sheet should be wound at uniform tension.

    Machine details:

    Make Benninzer,Vamatex & Ukil

    Made in Germany,India& Italy

    No. of machine 10 Benninzer,4 Vamatex & 1 Ukil

    Creel capacity 720,700 & 800

    Machine speed Upto 500 rpm

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    Width 64-72 inch

    Beaming tension 12-20 gm

    Tentioner type Disk

    Cone Length 1050mm

    Cone Height 210mm

    Beam Diameter max 32 can be used.

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    SIZING

    The process consists of laying warp yarn parallel and sizing the yarn

    with a mixture to strengthen it to withstand the rigours of weaving. Warp yarn is

    withdrawn in sheet from from warp beams which are placed at the back of the sizing

    machine. The yarn is then passed through sow box. Size solution is applied by immersion.

    After removing surplus solution that occurs at this state, the yarn is dried and arranged

    on a loom beam.

    Objectives of sizing:

    To improve the weavability of warp .

    To reduce hariness of the yarn.

    To withstand the stresses and strains of weaving.This can be attained by improving

    primarily the abrasion resistance of the yarn.this is achieved with the formation of a

    film around the yarn along with size penetration o9f size ingredients.

    To reduce generation of static charges for polyester blend yarns.

    to improve the breaking strength of the yarn.

    Machine detail:

    Make Hokoba,SukerMuller

    No. of machine 4 Hokoba& 1SukerMuller

    Speed 35 rpm

    Double saw box

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    WEAVING

    The object of weaving to produce the fabric by the interlacement

    of warp & weft. The other object is to produce defect free fabric . The warp threads run

    lengthways of the piece of cloth, and the weft runs across from side to side.

    Three motion are involved in weaving:

    Primary Motion

    Shedding

    Picking

    Beating up (Battening)

    Secondary Motion

    Let off motion

    Take up motion

    Auxillary Motion

    Warp protector motion

    Weft protector motion

    Shedding:-

    Shedding is the raising of the warp yarns to form a shed through which the

    filling yarn, carried by the shuttle, can be inserted. The weave pattern determines which

    harness controls which warp yarns, and the number of harnesses used depends on the

    complexity of the weave.

    Picking:-

    The filling yarn in inserted through the shed by a small carrier device called a

    shuttle. A single crossing of the shuttle from one side of the loom to the other is known as a

    pick.

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    Beating up (Battening):-

    With each picking operation, the reed presses or battens each filling yarn

    against the portion of the fabric that has already been formed. The point where the fabric is

    formed is called the fell.

    Taking up and letting off:-

    With each shedding, Picking, Battening operation, the new fabric must be

    wound on the cloth beam which is called 'taking up'. At the same time, the warp yarns must

    be released from the warp beam which is called 'letting off'.

    Warp protection:-

    The object of warp protector motion is to stop the loom , if shuttle fails to

    reach the opposite side as a result of faulty pick or some obstruction in the warp shed or

    breaking of picking strap

    Weft protection:-

    To detect the absence of weft yarn & stop the loom.

    Classification of Weaving Machines:

    Weaving machines are classified according to their filling insertion mechanism.

    The classification is as follows:

    1. SHUTTLE LOOM

    2. SHUTTLE-LESS LOOM

    Rapier

    Projectile

    Air-Jet

    Water-Jet

    AIR-JET WEAVING:

    Air-jet weaving is a type of weaving in which the filling yarn is

    inserted into the warp shed with compressed air. Air -jet system utilizes a multiple nozzle

    systems and a profiled reed.Yarn is drawn from a filing supply package by the filing feeder

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    and each pick is measured for the filling insertion by means of a stopper. Upon release of the

    filling yarn by the stopper, the filling is fed into the reed tunnel via tandem and main nozzles,

    which provide the initial acceleration. The relay nozzles provide the high air velocity across

    the weave shed. Profiled reed provides guidance for the air and separates the filling yarn

    from the warp yarn.

    The advantages of air jet weaving machines are:

    y High productivity.

    y Low initial outlay.

    y High filling insertion rates.

    y Simple operation and reduced hazard because of few moving

    parts.

    y Reduced space requirements.

    y Low noise and vibration levels

    y Low spare parts requirement.

    y Reliability and minimum maintenance

    PROCESS FLOW CHART

    WEAVERS BEAM

    DRAWING IN

    CREELING WEAVERS BEAM

    BEAM KNOTTING / BEAM GAITING

    LOADING THE EMPTY CLOTH ROLL

    SETTING OF INFORMATION IN PANNEL

    TYEING UP OF ENDS ON THE CLOTH ROLL

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    STARTING OF THE MACHINE

    MACHINE IS STOPPED AFTER COMPLETION OF REQ. LENGTH WOUND ON THE CLOTH ROLL

    FABRIC IS CUT AFTER THE REQ. CLOTH LENGTH

    UNLOADING THE CLOTH ROLL

    WEAVERS BEAM CHANGE IS DONE WHEN THE BEAM GETS EMPTY

    There are mainly two types of shirtings:-

    1. CLASSIC SHIRTING

    2. CASUAL SHIRTING

    Machine detail:-

    In Arvind mill ,classic shirtings are mainly manufactured on two types of machines

    1. RAPIER LOOM

    Machine name PICANOL GAMMA Length : 545 mtr

    Count : 2/50s, 2/60s,2/84s etc

    Total Ends : 8082

    Reed Space : 64.50

    Denting order : 3/4 dent

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    2. AIR JET LOOM

    Machine name PICANOL OMNI Length: 650-700 mtr

    Count: 2/50s, 2/60s,2/84s etc

    Total Ends : 8082

    Reed Space: 64.50

    Denting order : 3/4 dent

    Defects and Faults commonly found after weaving:

    Floats

    Short pick

    Defective shedding

    False Stop

    Breakage

    Missing Ends

    Knots, Pulls

    Fluffs Starting mark

    White patti

    Pick finding

    Tight end

    Weft float

    Bent pick

    Knot

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    Repaired warp

    Double end

    Weft patti

    Size Residue

    Start Marks

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    INSPECTION

    4-point grading system is used for inspection of fabrics and this includes:

    Size of defect Penalty Points

    3 or less 1 Point

    3 to 6 2 Points

    6 to 9 3 Points

    More than 9 4 Points

    Holes or Openings(Largest

    Dimension)

    1 or less 2 Points

    More than 1 4 Points

    At the beginning of the month the inspection department gets the production plan for the

    entire month and they plan their procedures accordingly. The finishing department gives the

    material transfer note to the inspection department where the material is checked for the

    following defects:

    Spinning related Defects:

    Warp Slub

    Weft Slub

    Thick end

    Coarse/fine weft

    Weft bar

    Moir

    Weaving preparatory related defects

    Knot

    Slack end

    Ball formation

    Size patches

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    Weaving related defects

    Starting mark

    White patti

    Pick finding

    Tight end

    Weft float

    Bent pick

    Chira

    Knot

    Repaired warp

    Double end

    Weft patti