August 2010 FEAST Magazine

the art of the table

DINE BYDESIGNshortcut to sophistication

PÂTÉMADE EASYsip away the summer heat

BOOZYBLENDS

/ Inspired Food Culture / Saint Louis / AUGUST 2 0 1 0

CHECK IT OUT!SINK YOUR TEETHINTO THIS CULTCLASSIC

WHITE BARNBURGERS

)($'! #(%*&" We’ve partnered with local farms likeEckert’s Farms and Thies Farms & Greenhouses because they growsome of summer’s finest and tastiest produce. Fabulous fresh peaches,tomatoes and squash are in your store within hours of harvest.Stop by your neighborhood Schnucks and getthe pick of the homegrown crop!

©2010 Schnucks

Inspired Food Culture Saint Louis 3

feastSTL.com AUGUST 20104

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COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY Tuan Lee

The taste of

nostalgiais quite a powerfulingredient.


/ Inspired Food Culture / Saint Louis /

August 2010

FROM THE STAFF

| 10 | FEASTSTL.COM

Check out thismonth’sonline content!

| 12 | FROM THE PUBLISHER

An invitation to Feast.

| 14 | FEAST FAVES

Thismonth’s inspiredideas for tasteful livingin St. Louis.

COLUMNS

| 28 | MY STUFF

From the home ofKevin Nashan.

| 31 | GADGET A�GO�GO

We’ve put five grill basketsto the test!

| 32 | ON THE SHELF

Newand notable in wine,spirits and beer.

| 34 | MYSTERY SHOPPER

Buy it and try it:black garlic.

| 36 | THE CHEAT

A simpleway tomake pâté.

| 38 | DECONSTRUCTED DISHES

Explore the ingredients ofBon BonChicken.

| 74 | PULL UP A CHAIR

TheVegetal chair and fiveperfectly paired tables.

FLAMINGF ISH

White BarnBurgers42

56

I'MCRUSHED

64TABLESCAPE

51


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A fabulous party begins with a fabulous invitation

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Giving profits to local charities Since 1930

Volume 1 / Issue 1 / August 2010

Publisher and EditorCatherineNeville

Managing EditorBrandiWills

Art DirectorLisaTriefenbach

Advertising Sales DirectorDonna Bischoff

Copy EditorAndreaMongler

Contributing WritersShera Dalin, Gabrielle DeMichele, Pat Eby, ChadMichael George,

Erik Jacobs, Jennifer Johnson, Angela Ortmann,Barbara E. Stefàno,Michael Sweeney, CassandraVires

Contributing PhotographersGeoffCardin, Ashley Gieseking, Tuan Lee, Greg Rannells,

Jennifer Silverberg, CarmenTrosser

Contact UsFeastMedia

14522 S. Outer Forty RoadTown andCountry,MO63107

feastSTL.com

Advertising InquiriesDonna Bischoff314.340.8529

[email protected]

Editorial [email protected]

DistributionTo distribute FeastMagazine at your place of business, please

contactTomLivingston at [email protected].

FeastMagazine does not accept unsolicitedmanuscripts,photographs or artwork. Submissionswill not be returned.

All contents are copyright© 2010 by FeastMagazine™.All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, withoutthe prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited.

Apublication of Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLCA Lee Enterprises Company

/ Inspired Food Culture / Saint Louis /



ONLINE CONTENT

STL.COM

FEAST MEDIA EXTRA! Check out theFeastSTL.com video section for recipehow-tos and on-location footage.

SHOP GIRL. Columnist Heidi Dean takes youinside St. Louis’ hidden culinary gems.

FEAST ONLINE EXCLUSIVE! FollowWanderlust chef and creator Erik Jacobs ashe builds his rolling restaurant.

ONL INE CONTENT TH IS MONTH ’S FEAST � MULT IMED IA � BLOG � REC IPES � TASTEFUL COMMERCE

DINNER & A SHOW

QUITE THE PAIR

DAY IN THE LIFE

SHOP GIRL

T R A V E L O G U E

TRAVELOGUE. Feast contributorstravel the world to bring youfood culture from all cornersof the globe. First up: Jennifer

Silverberg explores Haiti.

MONDAY: Shop Girl

TUESDAY: Day in the LifeJoin Pat Eby eachweek as she gets toknow the food folks behind the scenesof St. Louis’ culinaryworld.

WEDNESDAY: Quite the PairLocal wine expert Angie Ortmannvisits a different restaurant eachweek, chooses a stellar dish andperuses thewine list for a perfect pair.

THURSDAY: Dinner and a ShowIn partnershipwith KDHX88.1 FM,we bring you eachweekend’smust-see concert pick and suggest whereto dine before themusic begins.

FRIDAY: Travelogue

ONLINE COLUMN SCHEDULE:


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FROM THE PUBLISHER

A

FEEDBACK?

JOIN ME!Each month, Feast Magazine hostscooking classes, wine tastings andother events in conjunction with St.Louis’ food industry leaders. Don’tmiss your chance to interact directlywith these professionals and minglewith your fellow food lovers!

Cooking ClassFri., Aug. 13, 6��, L’Ecole Culinaire, 314.587.2433

Chef-instructorMattBorchardt takes a cuefrom thismonth’s Flaming Fish feature andwillshow you how tomake a grilledMissouri troutceviche, chile-rubbed grilled shrimp, coriander-fennel crusted scallops and a charcoal-

blackened bass.

Wine TastingThu., Aug. 19, 6��, 1111 Mississippi, Lafayette Square

Feast columnist and STLwinegirl AngelaOrtmannwill lead you through a free happyhourwine tasting that focuses on 1111

Mississippi’s Italian and Californianwines.

Cooking ClassWed., Aug. 25, 6��, Schnucks Cooking School,schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Get to knowFeast columnist and SchnucksCooking Schoolmanager Gabrielle DeMicheleas she leads a hands-on class at the SchnucksCooking School in Des Peres. Learn how tomake a full Japanesemeal, including the BonBonChicken featured on page 38. You’ll alsofeast on crispy tempura, pickled ginger, plumwine sorbet and Japanese Christmas cakes.

��@��.��

PSFEAST EVENTS

mericans have never been as obsessed with food as we are

today. But we’ve also never been so far removed from it. We

can rattle off the names of our favorite contestants on Top

Chef and talk about what the Barefoot Contessa made on her last

show, but still, for many people, cooking is a spectator sport.

Over the past decade, I’ve had the privilege of being

a part of the culinary conversation in St. Louis. With

this, the first issue of Feast Magazine, my hope is

to expand the conversation even further. Feast

is designed to bring our readers fresh inspiration

about everything food-related in the St. Louis

region. Restaurants, chefs, bars, bartenders – Feast

will keep you abreast of who’s doing what in the

industry. And beyond giving you ideas for where

to go when you want to dine out, Feast brings you

a wealth of ideas for how to enliven your culinary

world at home. Turn to us for ideas on cooking,

gadgets, innovative appliances, kitchen and dining

room design … if it relates to food, you’ll find it

in our pages and on our website.

There is much more to the enjoyment of food

than what’s on your plate, and Feast is designed to

make you eager to explore all aspects of St. Louis’

culinary culture. I invite you to join me at the table

each month and look forward to enjoying our local

food culture together.

Hope you’re hungry,

Catherine Neville

PHOTO

GRAPHYBY

Tuan

Lee


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PI ON THE SPOTTaking a cue from the national trend towardmobile eats, Pi (restaurantpi.com) debuted PiOnThe Spot in late June, offering a slice of itsbelovedmenu from awindow in the side ofwhatwas once a taco truck. ChefMarc Baltes says thetruck tweets its location, and themenu each dayhas two deep-dish pizza options – onemeat andone veggie. Desserts fromwell-known pastrychefMatthewRice are in theworks.

Pi is known for its innovative use of technology,and Pi OnThe Spot takes that innovation evenfurther with the use of Square (squareup.com), amobile credit card processing systemdevelopedby a St. Louisan and destined to revolutionizeelectronic payment technology.

FEAST FAVES / WHERE WE’RE DINING

Pi On The Spot

twitter.com/PiTruckSTLEVERYWHERE


CATERING & EVENTPLANNERS

Specializing in Corporate, Social,CateringTo-Go,Weddings and Bar Mitzvahs

Spiked Lemon Grilled Shrimp

Place 6 shrimp on a 6” skewer. Combine remaining ingredients andbrush over shrimp. Marinate shrimp skewers at room temperaturefor 30 minutes or refrigerate 2-3 hours. Grill on high heat untiljust opaque, about 2 minutes on each side. Garnish with grilledlemon halves. Enjoy!

Great as an hors d’oeuvre, entrée or added to any pasta or salad.

Sherrill Gonterman & Melissa Sinamon

314.647.5350www.lachef.com

• 3 lbs. Lg. shrimp, peeled,deveined, tail-on

• ½ tsp. paprika• ½ cup butter, melted• 1 tsp. salt• 3 Tbls. lemon juice

• ½ tsp. pepper• ¼ cup olive oil• 2 tsp. worcestershire• ¼ cup fresh parsley, chopped• 1 ½ Tbls. garlic, minced• 1 shot tequila (optional)

Mention this ad for10%off your next party.

Food And BeverageExpires October 2010

ACERO

Acero 314-644-1790The Terrace View 314-436-8855

Liluma 314-361-7771The Crossing 314-721-7375

WWW.FIALAFOOD.COM

ITALIAN CHEFS BUY LOCALLYAND COOK ITALIAN.

AT ACERO, WE BUY LOCALLYAND COOK ITALIAN.

LOCAL PRODUCELOCAL FARMERS & RANCHERS

ITALIAN WINESACERO. ITALY IN MAPLEWOOD

“They have a unique fresh floralflavor,” chef EliottHarris sayswhendescribing shiso leaves. Shisoleaves taste like a cross betweenbasil andmint and are rarely foundin restaurant dishes, but atMiso onMeramec the herb graceswell-executed sushi and also serves as the“chip” in Harris’ Japanese nacho. “You

have to cook it to order,” Harris saysof the tempura shiso leaves that hetopswith spicy tuna, tobiko (flying-fish roe), cucumbers and avocado. Ifyouwant toworkwith shiso leavesin your own kitchen, Harris suggestsheading toOlive Farmers’Market(8041 Olive Blvd., University City),where they’re available for purchase.

MisoonMeramec16N.MeramecAve., Clayton

314.863.7888misolounge.com

| 1 |ClothespinChopsticks, $3.95 each; CB2.com | 2 | TwiggyChopsticks, $10; Anthropologie, St. LouisGalleria, RichmondHeights, anthropologie.com | 3 | SweetsChopstickRest Set, $28 for set of four;MoMAstore.org

CHOPSTICKS!

FEAST FAVES / SECRET INGREDIENT

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SHISO LEAVESJAPANESE NACHOS

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FEAST FAVES / AT HOME

FEAST FAVES / SECRET INGREDIENT


Train to become aCulinary Professional!

And create your future.

Le Cordon Bleu ® and the Le Cordon Bleu logo are registered trademarks of Career Education Corporation.Le Cordon Bleu does not guarantee employment or salary. CEC2349407 06/10

Le Cordon Bleu programs offer:• Hands-on training

• Experienced chef instructors

• Externship opportunities

• Day and evening classes

• Financial aid for those who qualify

Text STLCOOK2 to 78573 or call

1.877.451.5222StLouisLCB52.com

7898 Veterans Memorial Parkway | St. Peters, MO 63376

Late summer is high season for lovers of localproduce, and at EratoWine Bar and Restaurantchef JonOlson is turning out awell-edited (andfrequently updated)menu of ingredient-inspireddishes. Olson cranks out all of his pastas in-house,including the rich short-rib-and-ricotta ravioli. Eachdish is accompanied by local, seasonal accents,

such as the sweet creamed corn and spicy pepperrelish that enhance rather than overwhelm thedelicate flavor of striped bass. And for dessert?Trythe rich, tangy lemon curdwithmint foam.

126N.Main St., Edwardsvilleeratoonmain.com P

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EratoWine Bar and

Restaurant

618.307.3203EDWARDSVILLE

FEAST FAVES / WHERE WE’RE DINING

ERATO WINE BAR AND RESTAURANT


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ONEYEARONE SEATINGONE CHEF

FEAST FAVES / FOOD STUFF

SPI CE UPGRILLEDDI SHESPour on these singular sauces to bringnotable flavor to your late-summerbarbecue.

BEST ON: BEEF & LAMB

BEST ON: ALL WHITE MEATS

BEST ON: EVERYTHING ELSE

| 1 |Andria’s Brush-On Steak Sauce, $4; Andria’s SteakHouse,andrias.com | 2 |AL’Olivier Poivron Au PimentVinaigre (Tomato-Red PepperVinegar), $14.95; ExtraVirgin, an OliveOvation, 143Carondelet Plaza, Clayton, extravirginoo.com | 3 |WerewolfEverything Sauce, $4.50; Devil’s Breath Chile Co., chilestuff.com



Violette VoyageServes | 1 |

2 oz Crème de Violette1½ oz Stoli Ohranj vodka

zest of ¼ orangesoda waterSprite

| Preparation | In a cocktail shakerfilledwith ice, combine the CrèmedeViolette, vodka and orange zest.Shake thoroughly and pour into ahighball glass. Top the cocktail with asplash of soda and a splash of Sprite.

VIOLETTEVOYAGEThe Terrace

View

��.��.��DOWNTOWN

FEAST FAVES / WHERE WE’RE DRINKING

| 2 |

| 1 || 3 |

| 1 |MicroplaneUltimate CitrusTool, $12.99;Macy’s, multiple locations, macys.com | 2 |Chef’nPalmZester, $7.99; Provisions GourmetMarket,11615 Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur, provisionsmarket.com| 3 |Zyliss Zester, $8.95; Chef’s Shoppe, 2320TroyRoad, Edwardsville, chefsshoppe.com

ZESTER S

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It’s August andwe’re in the thick of another hot,muggysummer. Right, right, it’s the humidity. But really, it’sthe heat too. Sowhen you’re ready to call it a day andcool offwith a cocktail, head toTheTerraceView inDowntown’s beautifully designedCitygarden.Take aseat at thebar in thismodern, spare space andordertheVioletteVoyage. Sweet and coldwith a citrus edge,this colorful cocktail will help youmelt into a softsummer evening.

TheTerraceView808Chestnut St., Downtownfialafood.com


FEAST FAVES / DESIGN TRENDS WE LOVE

ON TREND

| 1 | Lennox Simply Fine “Chirp” bread and butter plate, $12; Dillard’s, ChesterfieldMall, Chesterfield, dillards.com | 2 |DeVincennes dinner plate in “Owl,” $24; Anthropologie, St.Louis Galleria, Richmond Heights, anthropologie.com | 3 |Graphite salad plate, $4.95; CB2.com | 4 | John Derian rectangular plate, $55; Twigs &MOSS, 7715 Clayton Road, Clayton,314.454.0447 | 5 | Rosina Antique Trio plate, $20; English Living, 1520Washington Ave., Downtown, englishliving.com | 6 | Champignons plate, $24; Anthropologie | 7 | Petal greensalad plate, $3.95; CB2.com | 8 | Burleigh cake plate, $64; English Living | 9 |Wilma yellow dessert plate, $2.95; CB2.com | 10 | Lotus dinner plate, $10; Anthropologie | 11 | FromTheDeep salad plate in “Octopus,” $14; Anthropologie | 12 | John Derian rectangular plate, $55; Twigs &MOSS | 13 | Francophile dinner plate in “Eiffel Tower,” $24; Anthropologie | 14 |Kate Spade “Dogwood Point” dessert plate, $17; Dillard’s, ChesterfieldMall

Are some of yourplates so beautiful youhesitate to use themat dinnertime?Goodnews for you: Displayingdecorative plates ismaking a comeback!Youmay remember thisdesign trend from visitsto Grandma’s back inthe day, but wall-worthycontemporary designsare cropping up left andright in a variety of looksand price points. (Werecommend that youmix andmatchwith yourfavorite retro patterns.)And if you need helparranging your display,you can always call onGram for design advice.

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savings!Cheers to

Clos Du BoisChardonny2 for$18Estancia

Chardonny2 for$16

BeefeaterGin

$2699

Grey GooseVodka$2599

AngosturaBitters

Jack DanielsWhiskey$3599

Red DiamondMerlot

2 for$14

WE ARE AN EVERYDAY LOW PRICE BUSINESS

OUR “TWO FOR’S” ARE ALWAYS CHANGING

1.75L 1.75L

SantaMargherita$1899

750ml

750ml

4 oz.,10oz.

or 18 oz.

750ml

750ml

750ml

PopovVodka$1099

JohnnieWalkerRed

$1899

Johnnie WalkerBlue

1.75L

VeramonteSauvignonBlanc2/$16

$16999

Thank you for10 great yearsin St. Louis.

15921 Manchester Rd.Corner of Clarkson & Manchester

636-227-4543www.lukasliquorstl.com

/5:*3!%:64&6 +-87:64*:8#5-$4 "923$:,3$:6( 0 38346 '*-.4 ):1:8-7:6

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At 15–75% OFF our outlet prices,your WINDOWS won’t have to either.

THE SUMMER SELL-DOWN EVENTEVERYTHING ON SALE

GOING ON NOW

YOU wouldn’t wearthe SAME dressFor 5, 10, 15 years or more.....

YOU wouldn’t wearthe SAME dressFor 5, 10, 15 years or more.....

Grown-ups love ice cream just asmuchas kids, and atThe BitterSweet Bakeryin Benton Park, sophisticated flavorssatisfy adult cravings. Startingwith high-quality ingredients – never a commercialice creambase – pastry chef LeannaRusso crafts frozen treats ranging fromtart lemon curd to salty caramel, in whichsea salt plays off sweet caramel icecream and roasted cashews. Chocolateloverswill head straight to theValrhonaGuanaja, which ismadewith 70 percentGuanaja chocolate, and if you’re a fan ofcoffee ice cream, don’tmiss the espressobean and toffeeflavor, which featuresespresso ice creamblendedwith salty,chocolate-covered toffee.

2200Gravois Ave., Benton Parkthebittersweetbakery.com P

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TheBitterSweet

Bakery

314.771.3500BENTON PARK

FEAST FAVES / T HE DISH

BITTERSWEET’S

ICE CREAM


FEAST FAVES / SHOP�O�MATIC

FEAST FAVES / WHAT WE’RE DRINKING

Owned and operated by Paul andWendyHamilton (ofVin deSet and 1111Mississippifame), this culinary specialty store is targetedto gourmands of every degree. GrandPetiteMarket carries a unique selection of kitchenware,gourmet prepared foods and importedingredients for the home cook aswell as tastefultabletop décor for the haute host.

Stop by to experimentwith inventive gadgetsand exotic spices, shop a selection of J.A.Henckels International knives and cookware, andfind endless inspiration from a number ofwineguides and cookbooks.

Drawing on theHamiltons’ travels to NorthernCalifornia, Italy and Southern France, the shopalso offers a diverse selection ofwines andhand-selected specialty food items. A number oftasty treats such as smoked seafood, importedolives, and delicious dips and cheeses can bemade into gift baskets for special occasionsor picnic packs to enjoy anywhere youwant tosavor a delectable snack.

2017 Chouteau Ave., LafayetteSquaregrandpetitemarket.com

GRAND PETITE MARKET

2008 PASO A PASO VERDEJOLaMancha

This wine has aromas ofpineapple, kiwi and orange

blossomswith soft, honeyedflavors of guava and pinkgrapefruit. Pair with light

tomedium-fattyfishsuch as trout or halibut,

lightly dressed salads, andbarbecued vegetables.

$10; DevineWines&Spirits,2961 Dougherty Ferry Road,

Kirkwood, 636.825.9647

SPANISHWHITESConsider whitewines of Spain as alternatives tomainstreampinot gris or unoaked chardonnay. Verdejo and albariño areterrific options, and in recent years Spain’s new generation ofwinemakers has refined its tendency to produce clean, fresh andsomewhat simplewhites, instead crafting farmore compelling,complex versions that balance freshnesswith aromatics andflavor. The verdejo grape from central Spain ismedium-bodied,aromatic and slightly herbaceous, while the albariño grape fromthe cool northwest Rias Baixas region exhibits stone fruit, mineraland floral characteristics with occasional tropical fruit flavors.

2009 NESSA ALBARIÑORias Baixes, Galicia

This wine burstswithwhitepeaches, offering hints of

honeysuckle andminerality,and finishes longwith citrusnotes of oranges and lemonzest. Pair with broiled fish orpoultry seasonedwith fresh

herbs and fruit-based dessertssuch as cobbler.

$17; TheWineMerchant,20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton,

winemerchantltd.com

Grand PetiteMarket

314.241.7799LAFAYETTE SQUARE

PHOTO

GRAPHYBY

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WRITTEN BY

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FEAST FAVES / WHAT WE’RE BUYING

OUTDOOR LIGHTINGIt’s the time of year for late-night libations and dinners at dusk. Dress up youroutdoor entertainingwith these enlightened designs.

| 1 |Pod Lens System, $144; ylighting.com | 2 |SuperArchimoonOutdoor, $17,595; flos.com | 3 |The Sundborn by Elk,$178.20;Metro Lighting, multiple locations, metrolightingcenters.com | 4 |Vintage Light String, $142.99; RestorationHardware, St. Louis Galleria, RichmondHeights, restorationhardware.com | 5 | Louver by Craftmade, $95;MetroLighting, multiple locations, metrolightingcenters.com

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MY STUFF

KEVIN NASHAN OF SIDNEY STREET CAFÉ

Co-owners of Sidney StreetCafé, Mina Nashan oversees thefront of the house while Kevinmakes magic in the back. Localfoodies are well aware of thequality of their professionalpursuits, but what about whenthey’re off the clock and relaxingwith their son, Max? Feast satdown with Kevin at his home,surrounded by his extensivecookbook collection. When theNashans moved into their DeMunhome, the first thing they did washave a custom-made bookcaseinstalled. Kevin’s passion forcookbooks runs so deep thatonce, many years ago, when Minawas out of town, he spent allof their rent money at the localbookstore … and he’s turned hispaycheck over to Mina ever since.

First cookbook you everpurchased? The Inn at LittleWashington Cookbook: A

Consuming Passion by PatrickO’Connell / Favorite cookbook?Cooking by Hand by Paul Bertolli/ Favorite beer? O’FallonBrewery’s Goat’s Breath Bock Ale/ Dream dinner? Michel Brasin Laguiole, France, with Mina /Who’s in your iPod? Eminem,Rage Against the Machine, TimMcGraw / Max’s favoritefood? Avocado / Ideal Sundaymorning? Hanging with thefam / Secret ingredient? Salt/ Typical after-work meal?Leftovers from whatever Max atefor dinner / Personal choicefor pots and pans? LodgeCast Iron Cookware or Staub enFrance / Personal choice forknives? Michel Bras knives /Favorite chocolate? Bissinger’s/ Favorite bacon? Burgers’Smokehouse (their jowl baconis amazing) / Necessaryindulgence? Traveling … anddid I mention cookbooks?

Sidney Street Café2000 Sidney St., Benton Park314.771.5777sidneystreetcafe.com

WRITTEN BY Catherine Neville

PHOTO

GRAPHYBY

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3G not available in all areas. Coverage is not available in all areas. See coverage map at stores for details. ©2010 AT&T IntellectualProperty. Service provided by AT&T Mobility. All rights reserved. AT&T, the AT&T logo, and all other marks contained herein are trademarks ofAT&T Intellectual Property and/or AT&T affiliated companies. All other marks contained herein are the property of their respective owners.

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Inspired Food Culture Saint Louis 31Inspired Food Culture Saint Louis

gadget a-go-go

BASKETSGRILLPut to the teSt

written byPat Eby

What to Look For :

put your grill basketto use with our quick and easygrilled fish recipes

Size:Grill baskets can take up some serious space.Match theavailable grill surface to the basket size.

grips and Balance: Flipping a long-handled basket full offood over glowing coals requires a comfortable grip that fits thehand. Heft and turn the basket in the store to find the best gripand balance.

design: these hinged baskets snug food in, allowing the cook toflip in one fluidmovement on a hot grill. Adjustable basketsmakegrilling thick steaks or delicate fillets easy.

Nonstick Coatings: Look for basketswith a nonstick finish forquick food release and faster cleanup.Most recipes still advisebrushing the basket and the fishwith oil before grilling, evenwith anonstick surface.

Check out page56!

deals Nonstickrib/VegetableBasket

ProsMarked for ribs and vegetables, but itgrills fish fillets under three-quartersof an inch just fine. throw this grillbasket in the car next time you fish orcamp. it’s not a high-quality item, but ifyouwant to try a grill basket and don’twant to invest the bucks, this is theone for you.

Consthemetal’s flimsy, and aninsubstantial O-ring holds the twohalves. the nonstick finish is none tooeasy to clean.

$3; Deals, multiple locations,deals-stores.com

Master ForgeNon-Stickgrilling Basket

Prosthis less substantial, slightly smallerbasket adjusts to three settings. Atjust 2.35 pounds, with smaller-gaugewire andmore open construction, thefull basket is easy to lift.

ConsFish fillets worked great, but wheni roasted chunks of peppers, onionsandmushrooms, the pieceswantedto slip out the corners and immolatethemselves. the square-edgedwooden handle grip was a littlewideformy hand, and the clamp closing thebasketwas balky.

$7.99; Lowe’s, multiple locations,lowes.com

World Marketherb grill grid

Prosthe herb grill grid rolls a littledifferently. twoflat screens, hinged,open to hold fresh herbs. Food cookson top of the screen, as opposed toinside the basket. i used indirectheat and closed the grill to bestflavor the food.

Consthe basket holds only herbs, leaves orgrill papers, restricting your flavoringoptions. the handles are a littleskimpy. i had to pull the screen to theedge of the grill with tongs and thenused thin silicone pot holders to lift it.

$14.99;WorldMarket, multiplelocations, worldmarket.com

Bed Bath and BeyondNon-Stick oil rubbedBronze Barbecuekabob Basket

Prosthe shrimpwon’t twist, the peacheswon’t slip and the berrieswon’t budgein these tiny baskets. the soft grip isa plus too. you get four baskets. Onefor surf, one for turf, one for veggiesand the last for fruit. Full-sized grillbaskets at bedbath and beyondfeature the same soft grip and qualitymake as the kabob style.

Consthere are no cons, only one caveat.the handles are shorter, somake surethe grip isn’t over the hot coals.

$9.99; Bed Bath andBeyond,multiplelocations, bedbathandbeyond.com

kitchenaidNonstickgrill Basket

ProsHolds up to sixmediumfillets easily.Four depth settings, fromfive-eighthsof an inch to nearly 2 inches deep,allow the basket to hold both thickerand thinner foods. evenwhen thebasket heats up, the clamp actionstays smooth. Cleaning is easywiththe nonstick coating. the design issleek, with closed corners to keepsmall pieces in, anda framearound thetopof thebasket adds stability.

Constheweight – at 2 pounds, 12 ounceswhen empty.

$19.99; Target, multiple locations,target.com

©iStOCkpHOtO.COM/zekAG


ON THE SHELF

WHAT’S ON THE SHELF AUGUST

BEERWRITTEN BYMichael Sweeney

When not using his spare time tomake fun ofpeople whowrite blogs, Michael Sweeneywrites the beer blog STLHops.com. The ironyis lost on him.

WINEWRITTEN BYAngela Ortmann

STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann gained a passionfor all things epicurean byworking in the luxuryrestaurants and hotels of St. Louis and SanFrancisco. Through her event and consultationbusiness, she is dedicated to enhancing yourfood andwine experience.

Bières de Chimay –Chimay Triple

STYLE: Tripel (8 percent abv)

AVAILABLE AT: Randall’s Wines and Spirits,multiple locations, shoprandalls.com; $10.99(750-ml bottle)

When you’ve been brewing beer for almost150 years, you’re probably doing somethingright. Themonks at Scourmont Abbey inBelgiumbrewed this beer to be very dryand crisp. The slight funkiness providedby the Belgian yeast strain completelyenvelops your olfactory system, leavingyouwantingmore. Just be careful: At 8percent abv, this beer packs a punch.

PAIRINGS: Mussels / Cassoulet /Stilton cheese

NV Castella Cava Brut

PROVENANCE: Spain

AVAILABLE AT: Veritas Gateway to Food andWine, 1722 Clarkson Road, Chesterfield,veritasgateway.com; $11.99

Bubbles are a fitting choice any time, anyday, any occasion. This refreshing sparklershowcases the unmistakable qualitiesthat we love about cava – it can be bothdelectable and reasonably priced. It is crispwith prominent aromas of green apple.

FOOD PAIRINGS: Effortless – Eggs /Dine Out & Delivery – Fried appetizers /Special Occasion – Sushi

Big Sky Brewing Co. –Montana Trout Slayer Ale

STYLE: American Wheat Ale (4.7 percent abv)

AVAILABLE AT: The Wine and Cheese Place,multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com;$8.99 (six-pack cans or bottles)

As they are easy-drinking and refreshing, it’sso easy to seewhyAmericanwheat beershaveproved to bepopular in theU.S.TroutSlayer is completely unpretentious.Thearomahas a lot ofwheat character, includinga hint of citrus.The beer is clean, and thecarbonation is spritzy. Drinking this beer isthe perfectway to beat theAugust heat.

PAIRINGS: Salad (especially with citrusdressing / Orange roughy or tilapia /Goat cheese omelets

2009 Point ConcepciónCelestina Pinot Grigio

PROVENANCE: Santa Barbara County, Calif.

AVAILABLE AT: The Wine Merchant, 20 S.Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd.com;$16.99

Pink pinot grigio?A rarefind indeed.Thoughnot a traditional rosé, this copper-huedrendition breathes new life into a commonwine. It smells like summer in a glasswitharomas of strawberry and nectarine. Itscrisp, refreshing and fullermouthfeelmakes it a perfect outdoor sippingwine.

FOOD PAIRINGS: Effortless – Mild cheesessuch as fontina / Dine Out & Delivery –Antipasto or charcuterie platter / SpecialOccasion – Bacon-wrapped scallops

2008 Vin Ver’ray Syrah

PROVENANCE: Napa Valley, Calif.

AVAILABLE AT: Grapevine Wines, 309 S.Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, grapevinewines-stl.com; $18.49

This single-vineyardwine lives up to itsname,VinVer’ray, meaning “true to thesource,” with its dark fruit and spiciness.The fragrant blackberry, plum and peppercharacteristics are a nice complement toany barbecue. It is a rich, firm and earthywine that showcaseswhat a CalifornianSyrah can be.

FOOD PAIRINGS: Effortless –Sharp Cheddar/ Dine Out & Delivery – Mushroom pizza /Special Occasion – Grilled rib eye steak

Boulevard Brewing Co. –Amber Ale

STYLE: Amber American Ale (5.1 percent abv)

AVAILABLE AT: Friar Tuck, multiplelocations, friartuckonline.com; $13.99(currently available only in 12-pack samplers)

Amber beers tend to bemaltier beers, andBoulevard’s newest release is no exception.The first whiff of the beer reveals a bigcaramelmalt aromawith some subtle spicy,hoppy tones. Themalt carries throughto the flavor, but the beer never gets toosweet; it remains extremely drinkable.

PAIRINGS: Blue cheese / Grilled beef orpork / Mushrooms

JOIN ANGELA ORTMANN AND FEAST PUBLISHERCATHERINE NEVILLE FOR A HAPPY HOURWINE TASTINGON TUE., AUG. 19, AT 6PM AT 1111 MISSISSIPPI!


SPIRITSWRITTEN BYChad Michael George

ChadMichael George is an award-winning sommelierandmixologist, born and raised in St. Louis. He isthe founder of the Proof Academy, which coversall thingswine-and-spirits related, fromwine andcocktail list consulting to detailed spirits andmixologyeducation for the hospitality industry and the general public.

Death’s Door Gin (47.3 percent abv)

PROVENANCE: Washington Island, Wis.

AVAILABLE AT: Wine Chateau, 90Clarkson Wilson Center, Chesterfield,636.532.6069; $32

Distilled fromorganic hard redwinterwheatwith juniper, coriander and fennel,this award-winning gin is the perfect basefor any gin cocktail. The finish is bright andvibrant, with no bitterness, and the juniperbalance is just right. Try it in classics suchas theNegroni or Pegu Club cocktail or inyour favoritemartini.

Thatcher’s OrganicArtisan Liqueurs – BloodOrange Liqueur (15 percent abv)

PROVENANCE: Temperance, Mich.

AVAILABLE AT: Lukas Liquor, 15921Manchester, Ellisville, lukasliquor.com; $20

Made from sustainably farmed, certifiedorganic ingredients, the entireThatcher’sline has something to offer your tastebuds. Organic blood oranges fromSicilycontribute to the intensely red color of thisliqueur, but the taste is purely orangewith ahint of raspberry and cherry on the palate.Try it as amargarita addition or simply onthe rocks over club soda.

North Shore Distillery –Aquavit Private Reserve(45 percent abv)

PROVENANCE: Lake Bluff, Ill.

AVAILABLE AT: Provisions GourmetMarket, 11615 Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur,provisionsmarket.com; $28

This tasty spirit, which originated inScandinavia, is rarely produced in America.Caraway, cumin and coriander are themainbotanicals used in the distillation of thisbottling. North Shore then ages its aquavitin newAmerican oak, adding subtle notesof vanilla and toast. Think of peppercornsand lemongrass, with a good dose of spice.Try it neat or on the rocks or as a vodkareplacement in a BloodyMary.

GET CHAD’SRECIPES

ON THE WEB

FEASTSTL.COM


Tuna TartareBY KEVIN WILLMANN , FARMHAUS RESTAURANT

Serves | 1 |

3 oz bigeye or other very fresh tuna, diced1 tsp black garlic, minced

1 to 2 tsp hemp seed oilsea salt to taste

1 oz raw hearts of palm, sliced into roundspea shoots (optional)quail egg yolk (optional)lavash crackers

| Preparation |Mix tuna, garlic and oil.Season to tastewith sea salt. Addhearts of palm andmix gently. Topwith pea shoots and quail eggyolk, if desired. Servewith alavash cracker.

MYSTERY SHOPPER

When garlic turns blackin the refrigerator, it’s aproblem. But when theselittle spice bullets arefermented, they turn into awhole other world of flavor,texture and possibilities.In the kitchen, chefs andhome cooks are playingwith this darker, sweeterbut still-garlic ingredient.

WHAT IS IT?

Black garlic ismade by heating and fermenting raw garlicto produce ebony cloves that are tamer and sweeter, withlicorice and fennel undertones. The sugar and amino acidsin the garlic producemelanoidin, which gives black garlic itsdark color. It also amps up the antioxidant levels, turning agreat food into a superfood.

WHERE CAN I GET IT?

Chefs have been experimentingwith black garlic, so lookfor it onmenus around St. Louis. It is also available at localgrocery stores aswell as fromBlackGarlic Inc. of Hayward,Calif., at blackgarlic.com. It comes inwhole bulbs, in peeledcloves or as a purée (two bulbs, about $4.99; 5.5 ouncespeeled, $10.99).

HOW DO I USE IT?

Black garlic doesn’t pack thewallop of raw garlic, soforget aboutmaking it the star of pasta or shrimp scampi.Instead, use its sweet, mellow tone to bring out themoredominant flavor of a central ingredient. Peel it just as youwould regular garlic (the papery skin removes quite easily).It has the texture of a Gummi Bear, so putting a little oilon your knife can helpwith slicing. Its flavormellows a bitmorewith cooking, making it a nice complement to chickenand seafood dishes or a nice paste over roastedmeats.Its lovely sweetness is stunningwhen it ismashed andmixed into your regular hummus recipe.Maybe even try itwith a dessert such as coconut custard, cardamombreador carrot cake. Justmash and incorporate into your wetingredients. Then let the dulcet notes flow.

MEET : BLACK GARLIC WRITTEN BY Shera Dalin

PHOTO

GRAPHYCOURTESY

Bla

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arli

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STOP BY STRAUB’S TO PICK UP MORE EXCLUSIVE RECIPES FEATURING BLACK GARLIC.VISIT STRAUBS.COM FOR INFORMATION ON THEIR FOUR LOCATIONS.

CHECK ITOUT!

FEASTEXTRA


EVERY CURVE SEDUCES.

Suntrup Buick • GMC4200 N. Service Rd. • I-70 and Cave Springs • 877.262.8426 • www.suntrupbpg.com


Serves | 8 to 10 |

³⁄� cup cognac3 Tbsp unsalted butter

1 cup minced onion2¹⁄� lbs ground pork

³⁄� lb bacon, finely chopped3 cloves garlic, minced

2¹⁄� tsp salt2¹⁄� tsp dried thyme1¹⁄� tsp allspice

1 tsp freshly groundblack pepper

2 large eggs¹⁄� cup heavy cream

14 slices bacon, forlining pangrain mustard andcornichons for garnish

THE CHEAT

PÂTÉ!Most people thinkmaking pâté at home takes hours of time,specialty equipment and superlative culinary knowledge. However,you can do it in your ownkitchenwith the equipment you alreadyhave andwith ingredients you canfind at any grocery store.

There are awide variety of pâtés, ranging from the rustic pâtéde campagne to the incredibly difficult pâté en croûte. Therecipe I’m giving you here is for pâté de campagne, or countrypâté, which is traditionallymadewith a variety of pork, beef andchicken livers. But instead of using various cuts and varieties ofmeat, instead of using ameat grinder and then a special drumsieve and all the other chaos that goes into classic pâté, I giveyou the cheat: ground pork! You heardme right. Regular, straight-from-the-butcher’s-counter ground pork. By eliminating the flourfound in traditional recipes and increasing the amount of heavycream, you can achieve the creamy texture of traditional pâtés.

The fact that you can cheaton the ingredients, however,doesn’t mean you can cheat oneverything else. Some basic rulesof charcuterie making still mustbe followed.

Temperature is one of themost important elements inmaking apâté. Youmust keep everything cold – the ingredients, the bowlsand the spoons. If the ingredients or instruments get toowarm,the fat in themeatwill separate andwon’t properly emulsify.

Seasoning is just as important. Because pâtés are served cold,the seasoningmust be thatmuchmore aggressive. In order tomake sure you have achieved the ideal flavor, do a test beforebaking the entire pâté. Just take a small spoonful of themixture,wrap in plastic wrap and poach in water. This will most closelyresemble how the finished product will taste.

The last andmost important rule I want to impress on youinvolves creativity. The interior garnish is where you canmakeyour pâté unique. The interior garnish is not puréed or processedand generally runs through the center of the pâté. The commonchoices are ham, pistachios and herbs, but be creative andchoose garnishes that not only taste good but alsomake for astunning presentation.

CassandraVires is the executive chef andmanager of Ernesto’sWinebarin Benton Park. She received her culinary training in Houston, Texas, andhas a knack for reimagining classic dishes.

| Preparation | Set rack at lowestposition in oven and preheat to350°F. Boil cognac until reducedto½cup, about 1½minutes. Cool.

Melt butter in heavymediumskillet overmedium heat. Addonion and sauté until soft andtranslucent but not brown, about8minutes.

Combine reduced cognac,sautéed onion, ground pork,chopped bacon, garlic, salt, thyme,allspice, pepper, eggs and cream.| 1 | With awooden spoon,mixtogether until well-blended.

| 2 | Line ametal loaf panwithbacon, arranging acrosswidthand length of pan, making sure tooverlap. Lightly and evenly press

meatmixture onto bottomof panatop bacon slices.

Fold bacon slices over, coveringpâté. Cover pan tightly with foil.Bake pâté in awater bath until athermometer inserted throughfoil into center registers 155°F,about 2 hours, 15minutes.

Remove loaf pan frombaking panand transfer to rimmed bakingsheet. Place heavy skillet or otherheavy object on top of pâté toweigh down. Chill overnight.

| To Serve | Invert pâté onto aplatter. Using a paper towel, wipeaway the excess fat frompâtéand platter. | 3 | Slice the pâtéinto½-inch slices and servewithmustard and cornichons.

Watch ourstep-by-steponline video

FEASTST L .COM

is one of the simplest andmost humble of all pâtés. It originatedwith peasants, whoused various scraps ofmeat to produce something hearty yet affordable.

Country Pâté

STORY AND RECIPE BYCassandra Vires


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| 3 |PHOTO

GRAPHYBY

Jen

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berg

| 1 |

| 2 |

1-800-745-3000

DECONSTRUCTED DISHES

Bon Bon Chicken

Serves | 6 to 8 |

CHICKEN

4 boneless, skinlesschicken breasts

4 oz bean threads2 cucumbers, seeded

SEASONING SAUCE

¹⁄� cup peanut, saffloweror corn oil

¹⁄� cup peanut butter orsesame paste

4 Tbsp sugar6 Tbsp soy sauce6 Tbsp rice vinegar2 Tbsp sesame oil2 Tbsp chile oil

4 cloves garlic, minced6 to 8 green onions, minced3 tsp chile-garlic sauce

| Preparation |To poach thechicken, cover with coldwater ina large pot. Bringwater to a boil,turn off heat, cover potwith lidand allow chicken to steep untilwater is cool enough to handle.Remove chicken and tear intolarge shreds.

Pour extremely hot, but notboiling, water over bean threadsand soak for 10minutes or untilnoodles are soft. Drain and cutinto 3-inch lengths.

Peel cucumbers and cut in halflengthwise. Cut cucumbers on adiagonal into thin strips.

Thoroughly combine theseasoning sauce ingredients in asmall bowl.

Cover bottomof a serving platterwith the cucumber strips. Placethe bean threads on top, allowingthe edges of the cucumber toshow.Mound chicken shreds inthe center. Just before serving, re-stir the seasoning sauce and pouron top of chicken. The ingredientswill separate if you pour on thesauce too early. Garnish as youlike (shown herewith tomato,scallions and nasturtiums).

CHICKENBON BONSTORY AND RECIPE BY Gabrielle DeMichele

This recipe has roots in the Japanese banbanji dish, which is a cold chicken and cucumber salad. Variations on theoriginal include the addition of tomatoes, leeks or even boiled cabbage. Feel free to playwith thismain-dish version ina similar way. It is the perfect summer entrée: It’s easily assembled, creates little heat in the kitchen and can be servedcold or at room temperature.

Gabrielle DeMichele has owned a catering company, taught cooking classes and developed professional culinary schools.She is currently themanager of Schnucks Cooks Cooking School.

WED., AUG. 25, 6-9PMJOIN GABRIELLE DEMICHELE AND FEAST PUBLISHER CATHERINE NEVILLE FOR AHANDS-ON JAPANESE COOKING CLASS WHERE YOU’LL MAKE BON BON CHICKEN,CRISPY TEMPURA, PLUM WINE SORBET AND JAPANESE CHRISTMAS CAKES.

Chile-Garlic Sauce

Chile paste is widely used inChinese cooking and ismade offermented fava beans, flour, redchiles and sometimes garlic, asneeded in this recipe. Varietiesof chile paste include Szechuanchile paste (Chinese), tuong ottoi (Vietnamese), sambal oelek(Southeast Asian) and namprik(Thai). They vary in degrees ofheat and flavor andwill influenceyour dish accordingly.

Rice Vinegar

Rice vinegar ismade fromfermented rice. It can be Japaneseor Chinese and is slightlymilderthanmostWestern vinegars.

Bean ThreadNoodles

Bean thread noodles, also calledcellophane or glass noodles andChinese vermicelli, aremade fromgroundmung beans, instead ofwheat, and are awise choice forthosewho have gluten intolerance.Also, because bean threadnoodles themselves areflavorless,they take on theflavors of otheringredients, particularly brothsand sauces. You can substituterice noodles or vermicelli pasta oreven penne rigate.

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Sesame Paste

Sesame paste ismade of roastedunhulled sesame seeds and is agood substitute for peanut butterhere. But beware: It is not tahini,which ismade from roastedhulled sesame seeds and yieldsa different taste experience.Sesame paste is found inmostAsianmarkets.

Cucumbers

Cucumbers, part of the squashfamily, are often found in Indianand other Asian dishes to balancethe heat frompeppers and curry.Why?Their highwater contentkeeps them cool.

Soy Sauce

Soy sauce is an importantingredient in Asian cookingand ismade from fermentedsoybeans and roastedwheat orbarley. Choices range from thickto thin and light to dark, withlighter, thinner soy sauce beingmuch saltier than darker, thickerversions. Japanese tamari issimilar to soy sauce, and it isthick, rich and extremely dark.Soy sauce is the “salt” of Asiancuisine, which is why there is notraditional salt added to this dish.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY Geoff Cardin

1-800-745-3000




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Over 160 years of integrity, stability and strength


he quaint brick structure onChambers Road has had few

modifications over the years, asidefrom the removal of awalk-in freezer

andwindow awnings, and the presenceofDebbie andEdMueller, who bought thebusiness fromRich Robson, the originalowner, in 2003. The kitchen is notmuchlarger than a respectablewalk-in closet:Aaron Jones jots orders –mostly forhamburgers – on scrap paper, practicallyrubbing shoulderswith Rich, who stillmans the steel griddle. Paces away,Debbie takes cash, bags food and handsout orderswith no-nonsense urgency.

Made to order – and “worth theweight,”as the restaurant’s slogan states – theimposing beef bundles take up to 15

minutes to cook through. The resultantcrumblymeatmass has a salty-crustyexterior with an explosion of juicesawaiting escapewith the first bite. Dillslices, a light sprinkling of choppedwhiteonion and squirts of ketchup andmustardcome standard, and for just 15 or 30centsmore, customers can addAmericancheese to a single or double burger,respectively. Frequent diners know torequest a dollop of the Barn’s signaturegarlicmayo, a tangy addition thatmingles symbiotically with the cheese.

The burgers are packagedmatter-of-factly in bulging brown bags lightlystainedwithwarmgrease.Most devoteeshunker down happily to a single patty, buta brave few tackle the double. Served

on a three-piecewhite bun that includesa stabilizing bread buffer between thepatties, the 1-pound burger challengesthe jaw and stomach capacities ofmostmeremortals. The triple? Fuggetaboutit!Few attempt it and fewer succeed.

At 75, Robson, an Army veteran, hasbeen serving hot food, cold drinks andwarm smiles in the St. Louis area sincehefirst fired up his lunch truck in 1956. Inthose days he soldmainly to employeesof GeneralMotors, Carter Carburetorand about eight other area businessesin a harried lunchtime selling spree.Robson could fit only 20 burgers on thegas grill mounted in the back of his boxtruck, but if he timed his cooking andhis stopswisely, no onewent hungry.

BURGERS ARE

MADE TO ORDER

AND

AS THE

RESTAURANT’S

SLOGAN STATES


“I’d just ride alongwith the [back] doors open; I don’t know if Iwas supposed to do that,” he says. “When I came to a stoplight,I would run around and flip the burgers.” Robson kept up themobile diner until 1988, several years after he opened theWhite Barn in a formerVelvet Freeze building in 1981.

“I’ve enjoyed everyminute of it,” Robson says. “I love thepeople, and I love towork – and I like to flirt with the ladies.”

The customers, like theWhite Barn building, have changed little.Robson still gets visits from those die-hard original clientsfrom theGM/Carter era. They come to thewindow asking for“Dick theDiner,” his nickname back then, but Robson has otherways to identify them. “TheGMguys come up and yell reallyloud because they’re deaf fromworking in the plant,” he says.

Debbiewarmly greets a youngwoman as she considersher order. “How you doing, Shay?” Employees knowmanycustomers by name, and Robson estimates he shakes handswith 20 ormore every day, even on his part-time schedule.

For Kim andMike Zorich of Spanish Lake, dinner atthe Barn has been a tradition for the last 25 years orso, even before theirmarriage and kids came along.Kim now treks to the diner twice aweek ormorewithMike and their children, Katie and Kyle, in tow.

On this sunny evening in earlyMay, though, they’retailgating on the lot of the newFlorissant store, whichdebutedApril 9, 2010. Kim digs into a burger slatheredwithgarlicmayo; beside her, Katie enjoys catfish and fries.“Opening day, wewaited in line for an hour,” Kim says. “It’s that

good! Wewouldn’t do that anywhere else.…We came here forlunch one day, and theywere already running out [of beef].”

With a long-standing reputation for using local vendors,theWhite Barnwas locavore long before it was a trend.Bill’s RiverviewMarket&Meats on Bellefontaine Roadgrinds and provides fresh beef daily. Piekutowski’sEuropean Style Sausage onNorth Florissant supplieshot links and Polish sausage; Vess furnishes softdrinks;andTocco Foods Co. on East Prairie provides somemeats, condiments and sundry other food items.

Rich says he briefly switched to anothermeat supplierafter a disputewith Riverview over prices and immediatelyregretted the decision. “It was not the same. If [theMuellers] ever get rid of Riverview for theirmeat, it’sover because it’s fresh. It makes all the difference.”

Robson shapes the 10-pound bags of beef into 20 uniformballs and pats them into thick patties as needed. Afterslapping around rawmeat for roughly a half-century, heknows 8 ounces of ground beef by feel. “If I ever catch onfire, I’ll burn for aweek I’ve got somuch grease inme.”

They’ve GoT a New Grill Now

If theMoline Acres Barn is the sugar cube on ananthill, the Florissant location could be describedas themother of all picnics. The new store hasturned theMuellers’ schedules topsy-turvy.

“It took off like a rocket shipwithout anything but openingthe doors,” says Ed, who leads the crew at the newrestaurant, alongwith generalmanager BrandonWildman.“People have gone to one location and saw a line anddrove [about 10miles] to the other place. That’s loyalty.”

Early on aTuesday evening, there is scarcely time to scratch anitch as thewalk-up traffic bottlenecks and the drive-thru linegrows longer. A dozen or so cars snake around the structureunder thewaning sun. Just past 7 o’clock, the crew has alreadyrun out of hot dogs. Cook JosephWallace turns his attentionto an order of cheese fries, using a Barn trick to acceleratethemelting process. After a quick dunk in hot oil, a glisteningslice of American drapes languidly over the golden potatoes.But clearly, beef is king at the Barn.While Debbie and Rich

White Barn

Was

long Before

it Was a trend

“I’VE ENJOYED EVERY MINUTE OF IT,” ROBSON SAYS. “I LOVE THE PEOPLE,AND I LOVE TO WORK – AND I LIKE TO FLIRT WITH THE LADIES.”


serve 90 pounds of it daily inMolineAcres, the Florissant customers aredevouring about 300 pounds, and Edsays that amountmight be even higherafter hours are extended to 2am forthe summer.When they’re not gorgingon ground beef, faithful Barnies arechowing down on the two runners-up: fried catfish and – in a shockingvictory over American faves chickenstrips and brats – liver and onions.

KimZorich never doubted that theessence of theWhite Barnwould“translate” to Florissant. “I wasconfident it would be just as good.”

That includes superior service. Kimrecalls a timewhen she got to thewindowonly to discover she’d lefthermoney at home – a cardinalsin in a cash-only enterprise. Edtook her order and herword thatshe’d pay later. “He cares about hiscustomers.Who elsewould do that?”

Ed said his andDebbie’s vision isto keep the atmospherewarm andwelcoming. “Shewanted it to be likeThanksgivingwith family all the time.”

However, theMuellers credit Robsonfor theWhite Barn’s personality, evenat the new location. “Rich is one of the

most generous, sweetest, nicest peopleyou’ll evermeet,” Debbie says,adding: “If he passes, we’re goingto tell people he’s on vacation forawhile – so they keep coming.”

Full and happy, Kim peeks throughthe drive-upwindow to say goodbyeto her favorite cook, Ed, who smilesand shouts a hearty greeting. “It’stheWhite Barn family,” he says.“It is kind of likeThanksgiving.”

Although theMuellers have replicatedmuch of the original Barn’s appeal atthe newdigs, Robson good-naturedlyclaims superiority at the grill. “Notto brag, but I can out-fry them all.”

Sowhat’s the real appeal? Is it thefat, half-pound slabs of salty-savorymeat or the crispy catfish? Is it thefinger-sized frieswith just the rightcrunch or that heavenly smell ofpiping-hot beef that draws peopletheway catnip attracts kitties?

Perhaps none of these. The retrobuilding and evenmore old-fashionedcustomer service recall an eramanySt. Louisans desperatelymiss.

A taste of nostalgia is quite apowerful ingredient.

serve 90 pounds of it daily inMolineAcres, the Florissant customers are

most generous, sweetest, nicest peopleyou’ll evermeet,” Debbie says,

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| OPENING PAGE | from top: silver hors d’oeuvres pick, $6.95 for set of six; Essential white dinnerware, $2.95-$4.95;Whim plates shown in green,yellow and teal, $2.95 each; Rectangular platter, $11.95. All fromCrate&Barrel, The Boulevard St. Louis, RichmondHeights, crateandbarrel.com| THIS PAGE | left to right: Two forTwo sake carafe fromMarla Dawn, $50 (for set, including twomatching cups); UMA, 1100 Locust, Downtown,iloveuma.com. Oil and vinegar carafe fromBodum, $45;Winslow’s Home, 7213 Delmar Blvd., University City, winslowshome.com. Orange Picnicplate, $5.95; Crate&Barrel, The Boulevard St. Louis, RichmondHeights, crateandbarrel.com. Stainless steel salt shaker, $20 (for salt and pepper


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FLAMING

|WRITTEN BY | Erik Jacobs | PHOTOGRAPHY BY | Jennifer Silverberg

You areworn down, turned out and soakedthrough and have absolutely no desire to disruptthe harmony of your perfectly air-conditionedkitchenwith a blazing-hot oven.

Instead, fire up the patio barbecue, grill someamazing seafood and pair it with a raw salsa,slaw or relish that requires no cooking.It’s the ultimate summer compromise – asatisfying dinner packed with nutrition andflavor, plus no indoor cooking and preciouslittle cleanup.

Grilling seafood is easy, despiteyour fears to the contrary.

Ultimately, your success boils down to choosingan appropriate species to grill, making sure youprepare your equipmentwell and for Pete’s sakenot overcooking it.

GILLS TO THE GRILLEver try to throw aflounder fillet on theWeber?How’d that work out for you?On the grill youwillhave themost success cooking seafood that isfairlymeaty. Choose salmon, swordfish,mahimahior halibut – all great varietieswith themusclestructure to stand up to the intense heat andhandling of live-fire cooking. In addition, fresh diversea scallops, shrimp, oysters, clams and lobsterare all insanely goodwhen cooked over a live fire.

It’s the 10th consecutive dayabove 95 degrees.


ARTICLES OF COMBUSTIONGas or charcoal?Your choice. Gas grillsprovide amoremanageable cookingenvironment, but hardwood lump charcoaloffersmore flavor.With eithermethod, it iscritical that you beginwith clean grill grates.Buy a grill brush and use it! Cooking your$22-per-pound sashimi-grade tuna on top oflast week’s barbecued chickenwill end badlyfor you and the fish. Next, put a light coatingof oil on the fillet itself before seasoning, andalso lightly oil the hot grates just before youput the fish on. A long pair of tongs and somepaper towels dipped in oil will do the trick.Notice that I recommend a “light” coating.Soaking the grateswith oil may causeunwanted flare-ups.

KNOW WHEN TO SAY WHENFull disclosure: Cooking (especially seafood)is a craft. You have to learn throughexperience. In this capacity, chefs dependmostly on their sense of touch rather than onrigid timelines and temperatures – and thesame should go for you. That being said, a fewtips can help guide you along theway.

→ Make sure to pat your seafood dry beforeyou oil and cook it.→ Grill your seafood overmedium-high heat(wait five to eightminutes after the fireseems hottest); don’t steam it on the grill.→ In judgingwhen to flip, look for the colorchanges that occur at the edges of thefish.With salmon and tuna especially, thiscan be awonderful gauge. An instant-readthermometer can help confirm your culinaryintuition. Generally speaking, a thermometerinserted into the thickest part of the filletshould read at least 125°F formedium-cooked fish and 140°F for completelycooked-through fish.

→ Last, if you’ve purchased really freshseafood from a reputable source, worry lessabout undercooking than overcooking.Mostseafood is quite lean. Overcookingwill causeit to become dry and tough. If in doubt, take itoff! You can always put it back on if it isstill underdone, but once it’s sawdust,sawdust it remains.

IN THE RAWThere is no better accompaniment togrilled fish than a raw salsa or relish.Whenmaking salsas and relishes at home, striveto balance some key aspects: sweetness,acidity, salinity, texture and color. Summerfruits provide an excellent starting point,as they often combine two of the dominantflavor aspects you seek in a balanced salsa orrelish. A good balance of acidity (citrus juices,vinegars, wines) and natural sweetness(honey, palm sugar, agave nectar) heightensthe taste of themain ingredients. If eitherof these is dominant, you can lose flavorelements you are trying to retain. Add afresh herb (cilantro, basil, marjoram, chives)or spice (cumin, coriander, curry, smokedpaprika) with chiles (jalapeño, serrano,habanero) and seeds (sesame, celery,cardamom), and youwill be amazed by thetaste contrasts you can achieve.

Texture and color play dominant roles inbuilding a great relish aswell. Crunchyvegetables such as corn, jicama, bell peppers,snowpeas and cucumbers provide an aldente counterpoint to soft-textured seafood.One of the advantages of raw relishes is thatthe colors are still vibrant and rich, somix andmatchwith abandon. Finally, a word aboutsalt. Very little is needed in a fresh salsaor relish because the other flavors are sodominant. A pinch or two goes a longway.

Given the huge variety ofseafood available in themarketplace today, there areoften more choices than weknow what to do with. Beinga savvy and sustainableseafood consumer, youalready know that the searchbegins at the MontereyBay Aquarium’s website(montereybayaquarium.org),which provides an extensivelist of sustainable speciesfor your enjoyment. Checkout the handy smart phoneapp while you’re there.

S U ST A I N A B L E S E A F O O D

Erik Jacobs has been known toweep over perfectly executed duck confit. As the chef/owner ofWanderlust,he can be seenmeandering around St. Louis in a shiny aluminum trailer where he serves darn good vittles.


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The raw andthe cookedThese salsas, slaws and relishes are intended toaccompany simply grilled seafood. Of course, they canalso be used over chicken, pork, etc.

Grilled Swordfish with Thai Chile andGrapefruit Relish

Serves | 4 |

FISH

4 6-oz steaks domestic wild-caught swordfishoil for coatingsalt and pepper for seasoning

RELISH

2 Ruby Red grapefruits, peeled and segmented1 Thai red chile, minced fine (more or less

depending on tolerance)½ tsp honey (try a darker honey, such as chestnut

or buckwheat)1 Tbsp chopped fresh mint

zest of ½ lime

| Preparation |Bring the swordfish fillets to roomtemperature. Lightly coat with oil. Seasonwith salt andpepper.When fire ismedium-hot, place swordfish onwell-cleaned and lightly oiled grill grate. Depending onthickness of fillet and heat of fire, grill for 3 to 4minuteson each side. Allow to rest for 5minutes (covered)before serving.

Slice the ends from the grapefruits and remove rindand pith.With a sharp paring knife cut the fruit from themembrane, avoiding seeds. Place in a small bowl and addminced chile, honey, choppedmint and lime zest. Tosswell and serve as a bed for the swordfish.

Grilled Alaskan Salmon with Mango-Cucumber Relish

Serves | 4 |

FISH

4 6-oz fillets wild-caught Alaskan salmon(or U.S. tank-farmed), skin offoil for coating

1 Tbsp Madras curry powdersalt and pepper for seasoning

RELISH

1 cup seeded, diced cucumber1 cup diced mango

1 Tbsp finely minced shallot1 tsp toasted sesame oil1 tsp black sesame seeds

salt and pepper to taste

| Preparation | Combine relish ingredients in amixingbowl and allowflavors to blend for at least 30minutes.

Bring salmon fillets to room temperature. Lightly coatwith oil. Season on both sideswith curry powder, saltand pepper.When fire ismedium-hot, place salmon onwell-cleaned and lightly oiled grill grate. Depending onthickness of fillet and heat of fire, grill for 3 to 4minuteson each side. Allow to rest for 5minutes (covered)before serving.

Spoon relish over fish and serve.


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Remember, slow cooking is the keyfor the meat to absorb the mostflavor.

Ask Joe:

JOE’S BEST FLAVOR TIP:

Welcome to my backyard grill.Joe the butcher says...HOW DO I CHOOSE THE BEST STEAK? Everyone hastheir own taste preferences when it comes to the different cuts ofsteaks. The basic difference between the cuts of meat has to do withthe marbling of the steak and how the steak is graded. A steak canbe graded Prime, Choice, or Select by the United States Departmentof Agriculture. The determining factors for grading is the fat contentbetter known as “marbling” and the age of the animal. Prime meat isthe superior grade of meat but is more expensive and often exported.

IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN A LEAN PIECE OF MEATI suggest that you choose a Fillet Mignonsteak. If you are interested in somethingwith a little more marbling flavor, Isuggest the Rib Eye Steak or a NewYork Strip Steak. If you are interestedin a steak that is still on the bone youcould go with a Porterhourse, T-Bone, or

Bone-In Rib Eye. A Porterhouse steak has the filet on one side andthe strip on the other side, so you get two steaks for the price of one.Steaks that are on the bone get a nice juicy flavor while cooking. Intoday’s economy, you can find some more economically friendly steakswith the Skirt Steak, Flank Steak, Sirloin Steak, Chuck Steak and theLondon Broil. These steaks are great marinated and good for thefamily when you are looking for a tasty steak at an affordable price.

WHAT SHOULD I USE TO SEASON MY STEAK?At Kenrick’s we gladly season any steak you purchase with our largeselection of seasonings andmarinades. My favorite recipe for seasoninga steak is:2-Garlic Cloves Minced1-Teaspoon of Salt1-Teaspoon of Coarse Pepper6-oz. - Olive Oil1/2 Lemon SqueezeMarinate steak for two hours in your refrigerator.

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KENRICK’S HAS BUTCHERSON STAFF THAT WILL WAITON YOU AND GIVE ADVICEON THE BEST WAYS TO PRE-PARE THE DIFFERENT CUTS OFMEAT AVAILABLE.

Grilled Pacific Halibut withPineapple-Avocado Salsa

Add the avocado to this salsa right before serving. Thisprevents the pineapple’s acidity frombreaking down thedelicate avocado.

Serves | 4 |

FISH

4 6-oz fillets (or steaks) Pacific halibutoil for coatingsalt and pepper for seasoningmarjoram sprig for garnish (optional)

SALSA

1 cup fresh pineapple, diced into ½-inch cubes1 lemon, juiced

1 tsp ground coriander1 Tbsp minced fresh marjoram

1 avocado, diced into ½-inch cubes

| Preparation |Combine all salsa ingredients except forthe avocado in amixing bowl and set aside.

Bring the halibut to room temperature. Lightly coat withoil. Seasonwith salt and pepper.When fire ismedium-hot, place halibut onwell-cleaned and lightly oiled grillgrate. Depending on thickness of fillet and heat of fire,grill for 3 to 4minutes on each side. Allow to rest for 5minutes (covered) before serving.

Add the avocado to the pineapplemix. Spoon salsa overfish and garnishwith a fresh sprig ofmarjoram.

Grilled Mahi Mahi with SpicyJicama Slaw

Serves | 4 |

FISH

4 6-oz mahi mahi filletsoil for coating

1 tsp ground cuminsalt and pepper for seasoning

SLAW

2 limes, juicedzest of 1 lime

½ tsp honey½ tsp ground chipotle¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

3 green onions, chopped½ cup chopped cilantro

½ medium jicama, julienned1 red bell pepper, julienned1 cucumber, seeded and julienned

| Preparation | In a small bowl whisk lime juice, zest,honey and chipotle powder. Slowly add olive oil in a thin,steady stream until fully incorporated. Add green onionsand cilantro. Combine jicama, peppers and cucumberand tosswith vinaigrette.

Bring fillets to room temperature. Lightly coat with oiland season both sides.When fire ismedium-hot, placemahimahi onwell-cleaned and lightly oiled grill grate.Depending on thickness of fillet and heat of fire, grill for3 to 4minutes on each side. Allow to rest for 5minutes(covered) before servingwith slaw on the side.

Grilled Diver Scallops on GingeryPeach-and-Plum Salsa

Choose dry pack scallops. They aren’t kept in thatmilkywhite liquid that can give scallops a bitter, offflavor.

Serves | 4 |

SCALLOPS

1½ lbs dry pack diver scallopsoil for coatingsalt and pepper for seasoningchives, parsley or thyme for garnish (optional)

SALSA

1 ripe peach, finely diced1 ripe plum, finely diced

¾ tsp freshly grated ginger1 tsp chopped fresh thyme

juice of ½ orangezest of ½ orangesalt and pepper to taste

| Preparation | Place all salsa ingredients in amediummixing bowl at least 30minutes before grilling scallops.

Bring scallops to room temperature. Lightly oil andseason scallops. Lightly oil amedium-hot, very cleangrill. Place scallops on hottest part and grill nomore than2minutes per side (1minute formedium-rare). Removefromgrill and keep covered andwarm.

Place a tablespoon of salsa on a plate and topwithgrilled scallops. Garnishwith crossed chives, finelyminced parsley or thyme sprigs.


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The standard frozen cocktail,

long disdained by trained mixologists,

is undergoing a transformation to a smart,

sophisticated libation of layered flavors.

The Green Goddess DaiquiriBY P.J. DOYLE OF RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE

This summer-fresh drink requires juicing a cucumber, but if you don’t havea juicer you could use a food processor and strain the juices. To float theChartreuse, pour gently over the back of a spoon held over the glass.

Serves | 1 |

2 oz Hendrick’s Gin1 oz freshly squeezed lime juice

¾ oz simple syrup1½ oz fresh cucumber juice (strained)

1 oz St-Germain Elderflower Liqueur1 tsp honey

1 cup ice½ oz yellow Chartreuse

1 slice cucumbersea salt

| Preparation | Add all ingredients except yellowChartreuse, cucumber andsalt to blender and blend until smooth. Pour into goblet and float Chartreuseon top. Garnishwith a fresh cucumber slice, lightly dustedwith sea salt.

I’M CRUSHED

BLENDEDICE

DRINK

|WRITTEN BY | Shera Dalin | PHOTOGRAPHY BY | Carmen Troesser


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A little savvy mixology will help you blendup stellar summer cocktails. Here are a fewtechniques to try.

CRACKED ICE COCKTAILS

For cracked ice drinks (versus those whipped upin a blender), use the crushed ice setting on yourrefrigerator’s ice maker or your blender. If your fridgedoesn’t have an ice maker, place ice cubes in a dish toweland crack the ice using a meat mallet or a heavy woodenmuddler. Use the towel funnel-style to channel the iceto a glass. Ideally you’ll have fairly uniform small piecesof ice rather than a variety of sizes. Mix all your otheringredients in a shaker before you crush the ice so there’sless melt time in the glass. Pour the mixture over the iceand serve pronto.

BLENDED ICE DRINKS

For frozen drinks mixed in a blender, it’s best to use amodel with a glass carafe. Plastic is more likely to break,can have residual odors from previous blends and can bestained by acidic, brightly hued liquids. Load the blenderwith all your drink ingredients first, and then add the ice.Pulse all ingredients on the ice crush setting (rather thanjust leaving the blender on) to avoid ice jams. Once the iceis broken down, blend on medium until you get a smoothtexture. Adjust the drink to taste, but remember: Addingmore ice dilutes the flavors.

A great starting point for home bartenders eager toexperiment is the basic sour recipe:¾ of a lemon, juiced;1 oz simple syrup; 1½ to 2 oz liquor. Then add some of yourfavorite summertime flavors.

FROZEN FRUIT CONCOCTIONS

Instead of adding ice to your cocktail recipe, try usingfrozen fruits. Just freeze fruit picked fresh from thegarden or purchased at the farmers’ market. Store-boughtfrozen fruits work well as long as they have no sugar,preservatives or other processed ingredients added. Fororiginal blends, experiment with nontraditional basessuch as rice, almond or coconut milk or juices like passionfruit, guava, mango, guanabana or pomegranate.


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COMING INAUGUST:• Get hands-on in our Japanese cookingclass with columnist Gabrielle DeMicheleat the beautiful Schnucks Cooking School.

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Al AmanecerBY HEATHER DODDERER OF HERBIE’S VINTAGE ‘�� AND MONARCHRESTAURANT ANDWINE BAR

This drink has a luminous sunrise color and a littlekick from the pepper jelly.

Serves | 1 |

2 oz El Tesoro Añejo Tequila

¾ lime, juiced

¾ oz passion fruit concentrate

½ oz grenadine1 tsp pepper jelly

cracked ice

lime twist for garnish

| Preparation | Combine tequila through pepper jellyin amixing glass and shake for 30 to 45 seconds.Crack ice and fill a cocktail glass. Strainmixture intococktail glass. Garnishwith a spiral lime twist.

CRACKEDICE

COCKTAIL


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THREE MORE ICY LIBATIONS

Fresh =Fantastic

P.J. Doyle, beverage director for the Ruth’s Chris SteakHouse franchise in St. Louis, likes to experiment withwhatever fruits and vegetables are in season. For acracked ice cocktail in the spring, he tosses in a handfulof arugula; in the summer he might use the juice of afresh cucumber; in the fall he might whip up drinks withpumpkin seeds or nutmeg. For a flavorful late-summersipper, try the following:

→ Grab some fresh basil or mint from your garden tocreate a strawberry-basil or chocolate-mint concoction.

→ Juice or strain fresh vegetables such as cucumbers,tomatoes, arugula or carrots.

→ Purée raspberries, strawberries, blackberries, açaí orany other fruit you adore.

For a bit of added sweetness, branch out from sugar orsimple syrup and look to natural sweeteners such asfresh fruit juices and agave nectar. Heather Dodderer,the bar manager for Herbie’s Vintage ‘72 andMonarchRestaurant andWine Bar, also likes to mix in honey,applesauce, jams or jellies.

Summer in The LoopBY LUCAS RAMSEY OF ECLIPSE RESTAURANT

This old-school take on lemonade hasa hint of ginger. The blended versionof the cocktail isn’t available in therestaurant, but you can try it at home.

Serves | 1 |

1½ oz 209 Gin

¾ oz blackberry liqueur

½ oz Domaine de Canton

½ cup ice

squeeze of lemon juice

blackberry for garnish

lemon slice for garnish

| Preparation | In a blender, mix allingredients except the garnish untilsmooth. Pour into a Collins glass.Garnishwith a fresh blackberry andlemon slice.

Frozen BelliniBY JEFFRY HAKENWERTH OFWILD FLOWERRESTAURANT

This is a greatway towake up ona hot Sundaymorning.

Serves | 1 |

1 oz Absolut vodka

1 oz peach schnapps

3 oz peach purée

1 cup ice

1½ oz Verdi Spumante

1 peach slice or strawberryfor garnish

| Preparation | In a blender, mix allingredients exceptVerdi Spumanteand peach slice/strawberry untilsmooth. In last few seconds ofblending, add theVerdi Spumante.Pour into awine goblet. Garnishwithpeach slice or fresh strawberry.

West End MojitoBY JEFFRY HAKENWERTH OFWILD FLOWER

RESTAURANT

Serves | 1 |

2 strawberries,stemmed and sliced

3 large basil leaves

4 small ice cubes

¾ oz simple syrup

1½ oz 10 Cane Rum

1 cup crushed ice

1 splash club soda

1 strawberry for garnish

1 sprig basil for garnish

| Preparation | Place first threeingredients in shaker andmuddleuntil the basil and berries have a soft,consistent texture. Add simple syrup,rum, ice and club soda. Shake untilwell-mixed. Pour into goblet. Garnishrimwith strawberry and basil sprig.

Fresa FlorBY HEATHER DODDERER OF HERBIE’S VINTAGE‘�� AND MONARCH RESTAURANT ANDWINE BAR

Serves | 1 |

½ cup sliced frozen strawberries

½ cup sliced frozen banana

¼ cup frozen blueberries

1 cup milk

2 oz Flor de Caña extra-drywhite rum

1 banana for garnish

| Preparation | In a blender, mix allingredients except the garnish onmedium speed for 60 seconds oruntil smooth. Serve in a pub glass.Slice banana into½-inch rounds andslide 3 to 4 rounds onto an extra-longtoothpick. Place across top of glassfor garnish.

FROZENFRUIT

CONCOCTION

CRACKEDICE

COCKTAIL

BLENDEDICE

DRINK

BLENDEDICE

DRINK


Cheri McLaughlinWealth Management ConsultantClayton Office 314.505.8047

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BLENDERS

| 1 | VitaMix Professional Series 500 (1,500watts). You see thismachine in restaurantbars. It’s a workhorsemeant for professional use. Also juices and dry chops.$599.95,Williams-Sonoma,multiple locations, williams-sonoma.com | 2 | KitchenAid5-SpeedBlender (650watts). Five speeds for chopping, puréeing and crushing ice.The polycarbonate carafe is shatter-resistant andwon’t stain. $99.99, J.C. Penney,multiple locations, jcpenney.com | 3 | Waring Pro Electric Ice Crusher (150watts).Great for cocktail parties; simply load ice cubes in the top and this professional-grade ice crusher produces up to 12 cups of crushed ice at once. $79.95, Kitchen

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ST L.CO M

Follow chef and creator Erik Jacobs as he builds out hisAirstreameatery.

AND MAKE SURE YOU VISIT USFOR ONLINE EXCLUSIVES SUCHAS THE UPCOMING PHOTOESSAY ONWANDERLUST

MONDAY: Shop GirlColumnist Heidi Dean takes you inside St.Louis’ hidden culinary gems.

TUESDAY: Day in the LifeEachweek Pat Eby gets to know the food folksbehind the scenes of St. Louis’ culinaryworld.

WEDNESDAY: Quite the PairLocal wine expert Angie Ortmann visits adifferent restaurant eachweek, choosesa stellar dish and peruses thewine list forperfect pairs by the glass and by the bottle.

THURSDAY: Dinner and a ShowIn partnershipwith KDHX88.1 FM, we bringyou eachweekend’smust-see concert pick andsuggest where to dine before themusic begins.

FRIDAY :TravelogueFeast contributors travel theworld to bringyou food culture from all corners of the globe.

ONLINE COLUMN SCHEDULE:

PHOTOGRAPHY BY Geoff Cardin


ANNOUNCEMENTS

Come in for Friendship & Fun,

New finishing methods,

New finishing ideas for old canvases,

or to sit and stitch with us, anytime.

We have time for you to find

Gift ideas

Or try your

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Judy, Linda, Judy, Linda, Angela,

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theneedlepointclubhouse.com

314-432-2555

LEGOS WANTED!!

We Buy Used, Loose, Boxed, Tubs,

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Call Tom at 314.398.0174

BEAUTY

THYMES PRODUCTS

NOW AVAILABLE AT

CREVE COUER TAILOR

314-997-2882

CLEANING SERVICES

Residential • Offices • ConstructionWeekly, Bi-Weekly, Monthly, Last Minute,

One Time, Fill In, Parties, Detail Cleaning & Rental PropertiesWeekends & Evenings Available

KATHERINE314-556-9506

See

www.oliviacleaners.comFor weekly specials

DISCOUNTS ONSUMMER DETAIL CLEANING

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Including Garage, Basement, Move In/Out Cleaning,Attic, Oven, Pantries, Closets,

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314-727-3355

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CLEANING SERVICES

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ALL ABOUT

CLEANING, INC.

FREE 1 HOUR CLEANING!

(with purchase of 3 hour cleaning)

Residential-Office-Construction

windows, power washing, lg mirrors,

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allaboutcleaninginc.com

Since 1975 â Insured & Bonded

GUTTERS/ROOFING

CLAYTON HEIGHT'S GUTTER &

HOME EXTERIORS

Specializing in

Copper & Aluminum Guttering

Soffit & Fascia Covering

Insured & Small Jobs O.K.

Paul Steinbrook

7568 Wise Avenue

St. Louis, MO 63117

Tel: 314-971-2074

www.clayton-heights.com

HANDYMAN SERVICES

HOUSE DOCTOR

Powerwashing, Painting, Wallpaper

Removal, Patio Design, Landscaping,

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The Sure Cure, Finally A Doctor

That Makes House Calls!

Joe 314-416-4645

MASTER ELECTRICIAN

with 30 Years Experience.

No Job Too Small or Big.

Guaranteed Low Estimate.

314-609-1015 Larry

HEALTH & FITNESS

BEST OF BOTH WORLDS!

Massage Therapist and Personal

Trainer. Gift Certificates Available.

Treat Your Self, You Deserve It.

Call Ken 314.575.1212 or

email at [email protected]

HEALTHCARE SERVICES

NEW ERA SERVICE

FOR SENIORS (NESS)

Get the Personalized Care You

Desire In Your Home!

MET-LIFE Certified.

ïAssist with daily bathing & dressing.

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STONE MASTERS

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When you want your stone to

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choose the best.

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WOOD FLOOR REFINISHING

25-yr. Old Fully Insured Company.

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PROFESSIONAL FLOORS

OF ST. LOUIS

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COMPLETE HOME

REMODELING

Decks, Kitchens, Baths, Basements

25 years experience

FREE estimates!

TOM RYAN 314-952-9707

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LAWN & GARDEN

"Get your BBQ Grill cleaned for

summer cookouts!"

Celebrate the holiday in style

with a clean, healthy grill.

Our steam bath process helps

remove greasy buildup and

harmful carcinogens.

Grill healthier, better tasting food.

Call Steve

314-452-7192 or visit

www.bbqgrillco.com

CERTIFIED Master Gardner

Seeking all types of gardening work.

Weeding, Containers, Beds, Boarders,

Etc. Good References.

Call Teresa 314-306-1197

LAWN & GARDEN

The Hard WorkYard Work Co. LLC

Time for SomeHard WorkYard Work

SUMMER LANDSCAPINGLandscape Design

Summer Clean-Up & Re-VitalizationBrush clearing • Bed preparationTilling • Weeding & mulching •

Planting • Tree/Shrub fertilization,trimming and removal • Lawn

fertilization, weed control, de-thatch-ing, sodding and seeding • Guttercleaning • Power washing • Stone

walls, patios, and bordersDrainage solutions

For Free Estimates call Keithat 314-422-0241 or e-mail at

[email protected] 2001

PAINTING

DECK STAINING

BY BRUSH ONLY

No Spraying ï No Rolling ï No MessSpecializing in Hardwood Decks

Work Guaranteed ï Insured ï Ref's10% OFF ALL SERVICES

Cedar Beautiful

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www.cedarbeautiful.comBBB Member•Credit Cards Accepted

PET SERVICES

Call LAURA 636-456-9993Pick up & Delivery Available

The WellBehaved Pet...is training for all YOURpets needs. Specialize inNew Puppy, Puppy MillRescue Dogs or behavor-ial problems. I do hometraining to fit into YOURlifestyle!

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CREATURE COMFORTS

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offers pet sitting, grooming, training,

pet photography as well as concierge

services. Creature Comforts sets it-

self apart from the rest by providing

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ALL CRITTER CARE

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Insured & Bonded.

Angie's List Winner & PSI Member

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[email protected]

ADORABLE

POODLE PUPPIES!!

AKC, Standards & Miniatures.

Home Raised By Registered Breeder.

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www.ssspoodles.com

REAL ESTATE FOR RENT

10404 FRONTENAC WOODS LN

Frontenac 63131

4BR, 3.5BA, 5000 sq. ft., Finished

Basement with Kitchen. Inground

Pool. 3 Car Garage. 1+Acre.

314-222-9016 leave message

REAL ESTATE FOR SALE

GENTLEMAN'S FARM

4 BR, 3 BA, 1.5 Acre Stocked Lake

75 MI. West Of St. Louis

Metal Building with Horse Stalls.

Exclusive Properties, Inc.

Owensville, MO 65066

$258,500 toll free 877-437-8633

SERVICES

Eva Marie’sTransportation

Serving Seniors,Medical Patients andCorporate Travelers

Prompt &Courteous from

Door to Door

314-484-2373

Since1997

Gutter Clean Out, Stone Floor Restoration •WindowCleaning • PowerWashing Decks &Walkways • Roof

Cleaning • Interior Auto Detailing

We do tough stuff forhomeowners who care.

Call to schedulea complimentaryhome analysis

VACATION RENTALS

CABO FOR NEW YEARS!

2BR, 3BA, Sleeps 8, HDTV Satellite

All Rooms, High Speed Internet

Grandregina.com

ph: 314-692-0227

5000/weekly,

other weeks available for less

VACATION CLOSE TO HOME

3BR, 2BA, Sleeps 10, Families Only.

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Call Sue 314-401-7070

ONE HOUR EAST OF ST. LOUIS

3BR, 2BA on 1 acre and 850 acre

Lake, Swim, Fish, Water Sports.

900/mo. 314-692-0227


puLL up a chair

Designed for Vitra by Ronan & Erwan Bouroullec in2008, the Vegetal chair was inspired by shapes organicto the world of vegetation. This stackable polyamidechair is suitable for indoor or outdoor use and isavailable in six nature-inspired colors.

$555; CentroModern Furnishings,4727McPherson Ave., CentralWest End,centro-inc.com

written bybrandi Wills

And here are the chair’sperfect pairs:

petalo table

“Shaped like an individual petal, thePetalo table fromZanotta followsthe organic design philosophy oftheVegetal chair. Plus, it comes in awood ormarble top to accommodatedifferent uses and design styles. youwon’t find another table in this shapeanywhere on themarket, making it atruly unique combination.”

Todd Lannom, co-owner, CentroModern Furnishings

$2,452-$4,667 depending on size andfinish; CentroModern Furnishings,4727McPhersonAve., CentralWest End,centro-inc.com

black walnut accent table

“After considering several options, iselected this table fromArteriorsHome for its clean, simple,sensuous lines that are a nicejuxtaposition to the curves of theVegetal chair. the table has a niceweight to balance the airiness ofthe chair without being heavy orcumbersome. i also thought it was anice scale to the chair and kept theorganic nature of the chair in focus.”

Gigi Lombrano, senior designer,Frank Patton Interiors

$389; Frank Patton Interiors,13133Manchester Road, Des Peres,frankpatton.com

Santorini teak Dining table

“the clean, modern look of our teak table showcases theinteresting lines of theVegetal chair. this pairing is wonderfulfor outdoor entertaining thewhole season.”

Theresa Hunt, design consultant,Williams-Sonoma Home

$999;Williams-SonomaHome, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac,wshome.com

aStro Dining table

“i love that you can create an endlessamount of pairingswith the coolwhite finish of the Astro table fromitalModern. Aesthetically, it bringstomind a crispwhite china platewaiting to be adornedwith a beautifularrangement of colorful fruit! therounded back of theVegetal chaircomplements the soft curves of theAstro table, which is suitable for eat-inkitchens or small dining rooms.”

Carla Hunigan, proprietor, St. LouisLoft Style

$1,155; St. Louis LoftStyle,stlloftstyle.com

harveSt table

“Pairing theHarvesttablewith theVegetal chair creates a beautifulvisual juxtaposition; the chair isrounded and brightly colored, andthe table has hard edges and anearthywalnut construction. takinga newproduct with a verymoderndesign and teaming it with thistraditional, handsome tablemakesfor a great combination.”

Ben Swofford, studio proprietor,DesignWithin Reach

$2,900; DesignWithin Reach, 44Maryland Plaza, CentralWest End,dwr.com

ThE VEGETaLchair

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$ )**"+* !)&'%,,"&'(#Wear them with your favoritesummer dress or skirt! Choosefrom grey, chocolate, blackor chestnut.

The coordinating sheepskin liningwicks away moisture keepingyour feet dry and comfortableregardless of the temperature out-side.

Documents

August 2010 FEAST Magazine