Away from the skyscrapers and shopping malls of vibrant Kuala Lumpur, there are some lesser-

known gems to explore in the cityKuala AN INSIDER’S GUIDE

p ,known gems tLumpur

Words and photography by Lauren and Vaughan McShane

Lauren and her cousin Kirsten

Rossiter navigating their way from

Merdeka Square.

malaysia

64 Sawubona March 2015

estled in the heart of South-East Asia, Malaysia’s fast becoming a top destination for divers, shoppers and heritage-seekers. With a cultural core comprising Malays, Indians and Chinese, this is a country you can never quite put your finger on.

In Kuala Lumpur alone, you’ll find an intriguing contrast of modern skyscrapers alongside pre-war structures, sacred places and old architecture, all telling a tale of a rich past. Most visitors don’t make it past the Petronas Twin Towers and the golden triangle of shopping malls, but there’s a lot more on offer for those willing to explore.

Getting creative Try your hand at the ancient art of batik painting Batik

(a Javanese word meaning “to dot” or “to write”) is an ancient art form on cloth using a wax-resistant dyeing technique. It dates back to Biblical times in Egypt, the Tang Dynasty in China, India and Japan. Malaysia brings its own flair to batik and has incorporated it into the national dress of the country. You can try painting your own piece

of batik artwork in what we like to call the “artist’s alley” behind the indoor Central Market for only MYR20.

If you’re wanting to shop, the market sells everything from Chinese antiques and traditional handcrafted Malay kites to quality batik fabrics and jewellery.

Make your own pewter dish Thanks to Royal Selangor’s worldwide production of handcrafted pewter products, Malaysia’s globally renowned for this metal alloy, in which it offers a range of tableware, wine accessories, gift items, tea sets and more. Visit the School of Hard Knocks at Royal Selangor Visitors’ Centre to make your own pewter plate or bowl using traditional crafting tools.

Art jamming Visit Studio at KL and explore how far your hidden artistic flair may take you with a blank canvas and paint. This is a fun, relaxed environment where you can paint with friends to the accompaniment of music and also receive advice from experts. Use all the paint you want and go wild – you never know what might develop on your canvas!

City strolling A fountain symphony by night Every morning, without

fail, the Petronas Twin Towers are filled with tourists wanting to go up to the top and walk along the sky bridge. We suggest waiting until evening, grabbing some coffee and sitting beneath the towers outside Suria KLCC, where you can watch the 42m fountains dance and shine their myriad of colours to music. Couples chat on benches, families show children the lights and delectable smells waft from nearby restaurant kitchens. The towers look far more impressive by night than during the often hazy days.

A green oasis in the city Amidst the towers and KL’s most luxurious hotels lies the small green lung of the city: Kuala Lumpur City Centre (KLCC), which boasts over 1 900 indigenous trees and more than 66 palm species. It offers a quiet, green haven where walkers and joggers can enjoy the rubberised footpaths and jogging track, children can splash in the kids’ pool and you can picnic beside the lake and fountains.

Merdeka Square If you’re in search of grand architecture and a snapshot of Malaysia’s past, then a stroll around Merdeka (Independence) Square is definitely worthwhile. Marvel at the copper domes and 41m clock tower of the Sultan Abdul Samad Building, the 100m flagpole and the Victorian Fountain, brought over from England more than a century ago and still in daily use. Often overlooked is the National Textile Museum, a red and white Moorish-inspired structure containing insights into the origin and progression of Malaysia’s textiles within each culture.

Street art Walk along Jalan Raya Chulan to see the country’s largest street mural, Brave, by artist Akid_One. Just around the corner, outside the Putra LRT Station, you’ll see a 3D interactive art mural inviting the community to get involved in the piece and sit on its seats. The dynamic canvas of street murals along the Klang River can be seen from Pasar Seni Station. Artists keep it fresh by painting over each other’s work every so often, so take a few shots while you’re there, as what you see is unlikely to be around for very long.

N Clockwise, from above: Enjoying

the view of the Petronas Towers from KLCC Park

on a cloudy day. Mural artist Akid_

One creating a new display beside

the Klang River. Vaughan rock

climbing at Gua Damai Extreme Park. A Malay woman hand-

crafting pewter at the Royal Selangor

Visitors’ Centre. Enjoying the lake

symphony by night beside the Petronas

Towers. The bold, bright colours of a Chinese temple in

the city.

In Kuala Lumpur you’ll find an intriguing contrast of modern skyscrapers alongside pre-war structures, sacred places and old arch itecture.

@ KIRSTEN ROSSITER

malaysia

March 2015 Sawubona 67

Outdoor adventures SUPing on the lake Just 40 minutes from the city is

lake Tasik Biru in Kerudung, Selangor. This is the perfect place to try stand-up paddle-boarding (SUPing), with instructors from Oxbold Extreme Sports guiding you and demonstrating the correct technique. The boards they provide are as wide as barges, so there’s a good chance you can balance on them without too much trouble. If you enjoy yoga or Pilates and feel up to giving your core a workout, try a Pilates lesson with instructor Carina Lipold, who’ll take you from lunges and squats to the plank position and even headstands – all while floating on a board. And in the hot sun, falling into the lake is no bad thing at all!

Rock-climbing at the Batu Caves While tourists arrive at the Batu Caves in their droves, you’ll find absolute serenity on the opposite side of the mountain, at Gua Damai Extreme Park. Kids, beginners and expert rock-climbers can scale the mountain with shoes, ropes and all safety equipment provided. Abseil down from a small cave or climb up as far as your arms will allow. Either way you’ll get a great workout and feel it throughout the next day.

Cycling along Seminyak Dam Looking out over Seminyak Dam, you’d be forgiven for imagining you’ve crossed over into a pristine alpine region. Local fishermen cast their lines into the glassy water and seasoned cyclists make their way along the winding road, far from the city’s smog and traffic. Cycling the overpass to get here is best left to advanced cyclists – and even then, you should accompany a group who know this mountain, as the bends can be quite treacherous. Those wanting a leisurely morning cycle can simply drive to the dam with their bikes and ride alongside it. Head out before 8am to escape the heat.

Skytrex forest ziplining Ziplining through a rainforest is an activity the whole family can enjoy. Kids can choose the beginners’ routes, while the adventurous can take it up a notch to the intermediate or advanced routes. It’s a great way to get active in a new environment and give your adrenaline a spike.

Watch the sunrise from Broga Hill Early birds and those wanting relief from KL’s humidity should drive out to Broga Hill in Seminyah, Selangor. It takes about an hour to get there, followed by a 40-minute walk to the top. (Take a torch and sturdy shoes.) Plan to arrive at 6.30am and enjoy watching the sun wash over the city and the lush, green hills surrounding you.

Dining outWith Chinese, Malay and Indian dishes to choose from, you’ll have ample culinary delights at your fingertips, from upmarket Malay restaurant Bijan to the home-cooked baba nyonya delights of Fat Spoon and Limapulo-Baba Can Cook, including cendol and sago desserts. Shanghai Restaurant’s refined offerings of braised pork belly and dumplings will delight foodies, as will Restaurant Kim Lian Kee’s more affordable and famous hokkien mee (fried noodles) on Petaling St. Spice of India offers some of the best North Indian cuisine and those keen to try a traditional banana leaf meal should visit Sri Nirwana Maju Banana Leaf in Bangsar.EATERIES WORTH TRYING:

For espresso: Coffee Société, Journal by Plan B, Artisan Roast Coffee and Coffee Stain.

For light, trendy meals: Journal by Plan B, Antipodean, Konscious Café.

Restaurants and bars with a view: SkyBar at the Traders Hotel, the Heli Lounge Bar at Menara KH, the View Rooftop Bar at the GTower Hotel, Atmosphere 360°, Marini’s on 57 and THIRTY8 at the Grand Hyatt Hotel.

Getting around The hop-on, hop-off bus is a great way to get an

overview of the city, or you can purchase a RapidKL All-Day ticket, which gives you unlimited rides for the day.

The train network has various components that intersect with each other, including the monorail, light rail transport, Express Rail Link and the Komuter. Buying tickets and getting from A-B is extremely easy.

If you plan to commute around the city often using trains and buses, best buy a Touch ’n Go Travel Card, which is available at most train stations. For day trips out of the city, rent a car or use cabs (Premier or Budget). If you don’t want to haggle over prices, take a coupon fixed-price cab from KL Sentral.

You can rent a taxi to reach various city spots, where the driver will wait for you. Expect to pay MYR15-25 per hour. Keep track of the time from when you first got into the cab to the time you leave, so that there’s no dispute over prices.

When commuting to and from the airport, use the KLIA Express, which travels non-stop between KL Sentral and Kuala Lumpur International Airport-KLIA1 and KLIA 2. You can also use buses and taxis.

Useful contactsArt Jamming: www.thestudioatkl.com Blue Cabs: www.bluecab.my City Bus & Train: www.myrapid.com.my Central Market: www.centralmarket.com.my Coffee Société: +60 3 6211 5523Fat Spoon: +60 3 7728 3323Journal by Plan B: +60 3 6205 5318Konscious Café: +60 3 7710 0129Limpaulo- Baba Can Cook: +60 3 2698 3268

National Textile Museum: www.jmm.gov.my/en/museum/national-textiles-museumRock-climbing at Gua Damai Extreme Park: www.vertical-adventure.com/batu-caves---damai-wall.htmlRoyal Selangor Visitors’ Centre: www.royalselangorvisitorcentre.com (School of Hard Knocks)Sky Bar @ Traders Hotel: +60 3 2332 9888

Skytrex Adventure (for ziplining): www.skytrex-adventure.comSpice of India: +60 3 2164 9221Suria KLCC Park & Attractions: www.suriaklcc.com.my/attractions/klcc-park Tourism Malaysia: www.tourism.gov.my/en/myOxbold Extreme Sports Malaysia: www.oxbold.com

Clockwise, from top left: The heart of Bukit Bintang,

KL’s bustling shopping mecca. Central Market’s indoor shopping

bazaar has beautifully crafted

goods and gifts. A father fishing

with his daughter beside Seminyak

Dam. A Pilates lesson on a SUP

with Carina Lipold from Oxbold

Extreme Sports. The fragrant fruit and flower stalls

of Brickflields bursting with

colour. A spicy beef tenderloin burger from Fat

Spoon Restaurant.