History Of Chinese History Of Chinese ClothingClothing

Teacher: Teacher: 趙琪芬 趙琪芬 (Laura Chao) (Laura Chao) Students: Students: 廖元秀廖元秀 蔡伯榮蔡伯榮 劉懿庭劉懿庭 許婷姿許婷姿

ForewordForeword Chinese clothing has a long-term Chinese clothing has a long-term

history. For the ancient Chinese, the history. For the ancient Chinese, the purpose of clothes was not just for purpose of clothes was not just for protecting and covering the body, but protecting and covering the body, but for showing profound meanings which for showing profound meanings which prevailed in society. Thus, observing prevailed in society. Thus, observing the development of clothes gives us a the development of clothes gives us a chance to understand their society, chance to understand their society, economy, culture, and even their economy, culture, and even their mentality. mentality.

先秦先秦 Pre-Qin Pre-Qin During the Shang and During the Shang and

Zhou Dynasties, people Zhou Dynasties, people wore a suit of clothes, wore a suit of clothes, which consisted of a long which consisted of a long top part with a belt around top part with a belt around the waist and a lower part. the waist and a lower part. The top part came in five The top part came in five primary colors: blue, red, primary colors: blue, red, yellow, white and black. It yellow, white and black. It had short sleeves with a had short sleeves with a hem that dangled to the hem that dangled to the knees. Also, the hems of knees. Also, the hems of the neck and sleeves the neck and sleeves would be beautifully would be beautifully embroidered.embroidered.

During war time, During war time, more convenient more convenient clothes were needed, clothes were needed, so a new type of so a new type of clothing came into clothing came into being. The long top being. The long top part was replaced with part was replaced with a short form. The a short form. The people began to wear people began to wear trousers and boots, trousers and boots, which made it easier to which made it easier to move in combat. This move in combat. This new type of clothing new type of clothing was popular at that was popular at that time.time.

漢朝漢朝 Han Dynasty Han Dynasty People in the People in the

Western Han Dynasty Western Han Dynasty used four seasons and used four seasons and solar terms to determine solar terms to determine the colors of their the colors of their clothing. For instance, clothing. For instance, when spring came, they when spring came, they dressed in blue. Women dressed in blue. Women in the Han Dynasty in the Han Dynasty dressed themselves in dressed themselves in an outfit that consisted an outfit that consisted of a blouse and a skirt.of a blouse and a skirt.

The The Han Dynasty was Han Dynasty was powerful and its powerful and its economy was steady, so economy was steady, so its people had higher its people had higher demands in make-up demands in make-up and clothing. and clothing. Meanwhile, the famous Meanwhile, the famous Silk Road started and Silk Road started and promoted the promoted the interchange between interchange between Chinese and Western Chinese and Western cultures. Therefore, silk cultures. Therefore, silk spread around the world spread around the world through the Silk Road, through the Silk Road, and the western style in and the western style in clothing also began to clothing also began to affect the Chinese. affect the Chinese. Through this Through this assimilation, new trends assimilation, new trends emerged.emerged.

魏晉南北朝魏晉南北朝Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern dWei, Jin, Northern and Southern dynastiesynasties The Wei, Jin, Northern The Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern Dynasties and Southern Dynasties were not stable. In fact, twere not stable. In fact, the society was in great the society was in great turmoil. Therefore, the inurmoil. Therefore, the intellectuals avoided polititellectuals avoided politics but resorted to the phcs but resorted to the philosophies of Taoism and ilosophies of Taoism and Buddhism, which affecteBuddhism, which affected their clothing. They prd their clothing. They preferred to wear loose cloeferred to wear loose clothes, mainly in white. thes, mainly in white.

During this period, During this period, men liked to wear hemen liked to wear head decorations in ligad decorations in light color. As for the inht color. As for the intellectuals, they woutellectuals, they would use square-shapeld use square-shaped cloth to fix and covd cloth to fix and cover their hairstyle at ter their hairstyle at the same time.he same time.

Women’s clothinWomen’s clothing followed a similar tg followed a similar trend. They especially rend. They especially liked to wear dresses liked to wear dresses with loose belts arouwith loose belts around the waist and piecnd the waist and pieces of triangle-shaped es of triangle-shaped cloth on the back of tcloth on the back of the skirt. They wantehe skirt. They wanted to create the image d to create the image of a bird flying when of a bird flying when they walked. they walked.

It was until the Northern and SoutherIt was until the Northern and Southern dynasties that women’s clothes, wn dynasties that women’s clothes, which were influenced by the Northern hich were influenced by the Northern Chinese, became more light and convChinese, became more light and convenient than the clothing of Han dynasenient than the clothing of Han dynasty.ty.

隋唐隋唐 Tang Dynasty Tang Dynasty The Tang Dynasty The Tang Dynasty was a great era where was a great era where the frequent interchanthe frequent interchange of cultures between ge of cultures between the East and the West the East and the West happened, which transhappened, which transformed the traditional formed the traditional clothes into a brand-nclothes into a brand-new trend. ew trend.

With the development of texWith the development of textile, more slight and soft cloth tile, more slight and soft cloth had been invented and thus ghad been invented and thus gave more change in clothes. Tave more change in clothes. The characteristic of this era is he characteristic of this era is low-cup, narrow sleeve, cape, low-cup, narrow sleeve, cape, clothes of women disguise as clothes of women disguise as men, high-waist, tight-clothes,men, high-waist, tight-clothes, Ming-Yi( Ming-Yi( 明衣明衣 ), the clothes of ), the clothes of other nationality (other nationality ( 胡服胡服 ). ).

Women usually wore Women usually wore dresses with a belt fastedresses with a belt fastened above the breast. Tned above the breast. The colors of dresses moshe colors of dresses mostly came in red, purple, ytly came in red, purple, yellow and green. The dreellow and green. The dress would contain a low-css would contain a low-cut bodice with a cape beut bodice with a cape behind. Besides, women whind. Besides, women would put on an additionaould put on an additional dress made of transparl dress made of transparent silk. The kind of dresent silk. The kind of dress used to be underwear s used to be underwear before the Tang dynasty.before the Tang dynasty.

宋朝宋朝 Song Dynasty Song Dynasty This was the time for tThis was the time for the emergence of li xue, he emergence of li xue, a school of Confucianisa school of Confucianism in idealistic philosopm in idealistic philosophy. Affected by the thouhy. Affected by the thoughts, the clothes of Songhts, the clothes of Song dynasty were usually g dynasty were usually plain. plain. Most of vestments weMost of vestments were big sleeve. They used re big sleeve. They used different colors of clothdifferent colors of clothes to tell their status.es to tell their status.

Women’s clothes of SWomen’s clothes of Song dynasty were very simiong dynasty were very similar to those of Han dynasty.lar to those of Han dynasty. They were long dresses wit They were long dresses with narrow sleeves. Additionh narrow sleeves. Additionally, women would put on ally, women would put on a long-sleeved.a long-sleeved.

Apart from dresses, wApart from dresses, women in Song dynasty omen in Song dynasty wore pants as well. Thwore pants as well. There was a special custoere was a special custom of foot-binding at thm of foot-binding at that time. The Song peoat time. The Song people considered foot-biple considered foot-binding a symbol of beanding a symbol of beauty and elegance. Theruty and elegance. Therefore, women would wefore, women would wear pants shorter than ear pants shorter than their legs to expose ththeir legs to expose their bound feet to catch eir bound feet to catch people’s eyes.people’s eyes.

元朝元朝 Yuan DynastyYuan Dynasty The Yuan Dynasty was The Yuan Dynasty was

influenced by the Han influenced by the Han nationality. Clothing had nationality. Clothing had become more and more become more and more gorgeous and featured on gorgeous and featured on robe. Because of Mongol robe. Because of Mongol nationality’s custom, men nationality’s custom, men in that time liked to grow in that time liked to grow plaited hair and wear plaited hair and wear earring. They wore a wide-earring. They wore a wide-brimmed rain hat in brimmed rain hat in summer, while wore fur summer, while wore fur coat, leather boot and coat, leather boot and leather hat in winter. Many leather hat in winter. Many of mandarin’s clothes were of mandarin’s clothes were robe had narrow sleeves. robe had narrow sleeves.

Women of Mongol clothes wWomen of Mongol clothes were similar to men’s, but their ere similar to men’s, but their colors were different. Plenty of colors were different. Plenty of women’s clothes were women’s clothes were 左衽 左衽 and had tight and narrow sleevand had tight and narrow sleeves. When women wore a robe, tes. When women wore a robe, they also wore pants, and used hey also wore pants, and used a band to tie on waist. Instead, a band to tie on waist. Instead, women of Han nationality featwomen of Han nationality featured on ured on 襦裙襦裙 . Their clothes we. Their clothes were re 右衽 右衽 and loose or narrow sland loose or narrow sleeves. They wore long pants in eeves. They wore long pants in the pleated skirt and wore shalthe pleated skirt and wore shallow-bottom shoes. The rich wolow-bottom shoes. The rich women of Mongol nationality had men of Mongol nationality had a special-shaped hat which waa special-shaped hat which was tall and long.s tall and long.

明朝明朝 Ming Dynasty Ming Dynasty Men in Min Dynasty Men in Min Dynasty wore long robes. wore long robes.

Women in Min Dynasty wore shirt( 衫 ) , coat, 霞披 (a kind of plaid) and skirt. Their clothes were feat body. They just could wear light color but couldn’t wear deep red and yellow. However, clothes of ladies were fit and slemder, such as long coat and long skirt. They would wear pleated skirt, long vest and shawl.

清朝清朝 Qing Dynasty Qing Dynasty The trait of clothing of QiThe trait of clothing of Qing Dynasty were retaining ang Dynasty were retaining and absorbing Han nationalitnd absorbing Han nationality and Manchu’s custom. My and Manchu’s custom. Men of Qing Dynasty’s mainlen of Qing Dynasty’s mainly clothes were robe, jackety clothes were robe, jacket(( 馬褂馬褂 ) and vest() and vest( 馬甲馬甲 ) . Bec) . Because Manchu liked riding-shause Manchu liked riding-shoot, their sleeves of robe weoot, their sleeves of robe were looked like a horse’s hore looked like a horse’s hoof. of. 褂 褂 had been wore out of had been wore out of the robe, whether men or wthe robe, whether men or women could wear it. On the omen could wear it. On the vest(vest( 馬甲馬甲 ) were much ador) were much adornment of colorful embroidenment of colorful embroider.r.

Women of Qing DynastWomen of Qing Dynasty liked the slender figure.y liked the slender figure. They often wore a cheo They often wore a cheongsam, combed the chigngsam, combed the chignon on hair flat, fashionnon on hair flat, fashioned put an upright board ed put an upright board which artificial flowers which artificial flowers were sewed on and worwere sewed on and wore tall-bottomed shoes. Te tall-bottomed shoes. The rich women of Qing Dhe rich women of Qing Dynasty would inlay jadeiynasty would inlay jadeite coral, pearls or white jte coral, pearls or white jade on the adornment wade on the adornment which was inserted on the hich was inserted on the chignon and wore nail cchignon and wore nail coats made of jewel to proats made of jewel to protect their fingernail. otect their fingernail.

NowadaysNowadays 近代近代 When the Xin-Hai(When the Xin-Hai( 辛亥辛亥 ) r) revolution happened in 191evolution happened in 1911, three demands came fro1, three demands came from the people: abolishing thm the people: abolishing the monarchy, cutting off the e monarchy, cutting off the braid, changing the traditiobraid, changing the traditional clothes into the new onnal clothes into the new ones. During that time, men bes. During that time, men began to wear unlined uppeegan to wear unlined upper garments and jackets. Thr garments and jackets. The young people usually wore young people usually wore western-style clothes. Zhe western-style clothes. Zhong-Shan(ong-Shan( 中山中山 ) style cloth) style clothes also became a trend for es also became a trend for the Chinese during the refothe Chinese during the reformation.rmation.

Zhong-Shan(Zhong-Shan( 中山中山 ) style clot) style clothes appeared after the Xin-Hhes appeared after the Xin-Hai revolution. This new style cai revolution. This new style combines the traditional charombines the traditional characteristics with the western clacteristics with the western clothes. It features a chink and othes. It features a chink and a waistband on the backside. a waistband on the backside. Besides, there are always ninBesides, there are always nine buttons on the front part of e buttons on the front part of the garment, and folds on the the garment, and folds on the pockets. The Zhong-Shan(pockets. The Zhong-Shan( 中中山山 ) style has its special politi) style has its special politically symbolic meaning. The cally symbolic meaning. The five pockets, one of which is ifive pockets, one of which is inside the garment, represent nside the garment, represent the five constitutional principthe five constitutional principles by Dr. Sun Ye-Shan (les by Dr. Sun Ye-Shan ( 孫逸孫逸仙仙 )) 。。

Other DecorationsOther Decorations1. Foot-binding1. Foot-binding2. 2. 花鈿 花鈿 Dang Dang

Foot-bindingFoot-binding 纏足纏足 Foot-binding was a special kind of Chinese Foot-binding was a special kind of Chinese

custom prevailing in the early 20th century. custom prevailing in the early 20th century. At that time, women had to use a long piece At that time, women had to use a long piece of cloth to tie their feet since childhood. They of cloth to tie their feet since childhood. They wanted to stop the growing of the feet, for wanted to stop the growing of the feet, for smaller feet were thought more attractive to smaller feet were thought more attractive to men. Women with bound-feet could not walk men. Women with bound-feet could not walk properly, but had to walk on their heels. After properly, but had to walk on their heels. After the end of the Chin Dynasty, more and more the end of the Chin Dynasty, more and more people started to consider the food-binding a people started to consider the food-binding a kind of repression for women, and then the kind of repression for women, and then the old custom has been banned legally now.old custom has been banned legally now.

http://www.chuanwen.com.cn/againstlist.action?pn=75

花鈿花鈿 DangDang

Dang ( 鈿 ) is also a kind of ornament worn on the forehead by women as a decoration. Due to its various components, Dang is colorful. For example, a golden one is usually made of foil. Besides, the pictures on Dang may determine its color as well. There is a popular one, named Zui Dang ( 翠鈿 ). It got its name from the picture with bird’s feather made of green emerald.

The special glue used to paste the Dang The special glue used to paste the Dang was called Ho-Chiao(was called Ho-Chiao( 呵膠呵膠 ). Legend has ). Legend has it that the special glue is made of fish pnit that the special glue is made of fish pneumatocysts. When women wanted to peumatocysts. When women wanted to peel the Dang off, first, they should blow ieel the Dang off, first, they should blow it on, and apply a little saliva on it, and tht on, and apply a little saliva on it, and then the glue may dissolve. Otherwise, theen the glue may dissolve. Otherwise, they could use hot water to pat on their forey could use hot water to pat on their forehead, and then the glue could come off.head, and then the glue could come off.

ReferencesReferences http://hk.cl2000.com/?/fashion/culturhttp://hk.cl2000.com/?/fashion/cultur

e/wen1.shtmle/wen1.shtml http://hk.cl2000.com/?/fashion/culturhttp://hk.cl2000.com/?/fashion/cultur

e/wen1_9.shtmle/wen1_9.shtml http://edu.ocac.gov.tw/culture/chineshttp://edu.ocac.gov.tw/culture/chines

e/cul_chculture/vod29html/vod29_09.e/cul_chculture/vod29html/vod29_09.htmhtm

http://hk.geocities.com/vinnelung/http://hk.geocities.com/vinnelung/