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Extract of the National Inventory List of the I CIH /ITH Republic ofTajildstanfor !CH Requ CLT

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• HoMH rryppa 6a Ja6oHH MH.IlllH: "qaKaH - ~apH ryJI.2lj3H: ,nap ~PHD To~CTOB"

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1111 llll,ft lllll!lUlDIIlnJU 0139700009

Extract of the National Inventory List of the Republic ofTajikistan for ICH

1. Name of the element

• Full name in the native language: Chakanduzi

• Full name in English: "Chakan - an embroidery art".

2. Inventory number and date of registration

Requ CLT I CIH /ITH

Le 13 0 MARS 2017 I w ....... er.:~3 ................... .

The element has been included in the national inventory titled as 11Tajik National List of Intangible Cultural Heritage., under No. E002. The list was adopted in the framework of Annual Report Meeting of of the Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Tajikistan in Apri110, 2014, and the last updation date is January 16, 2016.

3. Category and sub-category of the element

• Traditional craftsmanship. • Social practices, rituals and festive events; • Knowledge and practices concerning the nature and universe;

4. Geographic range of the element

The element is distributed in the Kulob city, Vose, Muminabad, Danghara, Farkhar, Khovaling, Shurabad, Mirsaid-ali Hamadani districts of Khatlon region of Tajikistan. Kulob city is considered the center of chakan craftswomen.

S. A. Name of communities, groups and individuals concerned

Most concerned communities and groups of the element are as following:

1. Informal independent working groups organized by neighbor women and girls of the Kulob city and surrounded villages and districts.

2. In the capitial city Dushanbe the communities consemed with the element are placed in the special working places so called "Art houses".

3. In the Kulob city sinCQ_ 20..0 · func.tioning_the none-gQvemmental fiu ..... __ _ "Chakan"~ in which work 50 women and girls- masters of cbakan sewing.

4. None-governmental organization "Haft paykar".

5. Art schools and colleges, where pupils and students study drowing Chakan ornaments and embroidery art.

6. Members of musical folklore groups and dancing ensembles of Tajikistan.

B. Participation of communities, groups, practitioners and bearers of the

element in the process of inventory-making and drafting I CH nomination file

In 2013 in the Research of Institute of Culture and Information (RICI) was organized a group of experts for gathering fresh materials and updating of the National Inventory List. The group was headed by Tajik folklorist from Academy of Sciences Dr. Rahimov D. In the group also were included researchers from RICI: Klicheva N., Zubaydov A., Muhammadiev H., Obidpur J, and Kholmurodov Z.; from other institutions - Aminov A., (Institute of Language and Literature); Murodov M., (Tajik National University) and Qodirov F. (Tajik Institute of Arts). The group conducted several fieldworks in Sughd, Kulab, Hisar valley, Rasht and Khatlon region and collected the necessary materials for completion of the inventory list. In these fieldworks experts collaborated with local NGO's, folk artists, folk craftsmen, folk singers, musiCians, performers, teachers, representatives of local governments, and other people. Also in 4 regions of the country (Sughd, Kurgantube, Kulob7 Khorogh) work representatives of the Inventory group, which provide with fresh materials and information about situation of each element. The updating activity carried out in frame of "State program on safeguarding ICH in the territory of the country for the period of 2013-2020".

In discussion were participated scholars, NGO representatives, journalists, workers from cultural departments, folk craftsmen, folklore performers and artists.

The inventory list regularly updates in each 2 years. Thus, in 2016, it was updated again and was discussed at the meeting of scholars of the given Institute, in which participated representatives of the cultural sphere, folk craftsmen and artists as well. Updated Tajik National List of Intangible Cultural Heritage consists of 515 elements of ICH and was confirmed by the Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Tajikistan in January 15, 2016.

6. Description of the element -------

The art of chalcan embroidery is a kind of sewing ornaments, image of flowers and symbolic drawings with colorful threads on cotton or silk fabrics. Chakan embroidery art in Tajildstan belongs to women. Usually with chakan embroidery masters sew women shirt, national cap, pillow, bedspread, headscarf, towel, curtain, coverlet for cradle, curtain for wall decoration so called suzani and etc. In the chakan embroidery art are used symbolic depictions and mythological images related to the nature and cosmos, which express people's wishes and hopes. Each ornament has special name, for example, pomegranate flower, willow leaves,

almond, tulip, cockscomb, peacock's tail, moon, star, sun, cloud and so on.

Process of chakan embroidery production consists of selection of textile and threads, drawing ornaments, doing the needlepoint images, and sewing clothes.

7. Modes of transmission

Knowledge and skills related to the Chakan embroidery art till today are transmitting in two traditional ways. First way is the vertical method take place in frame of family. In the families young generation learn the art of chakan

embroidery from mothers, grand-mothers, elder sisters. Girls starting since 8-9 years old sitting close to their mothers or sisters observe the art of embroidery. The second way of transmission of the element belongs to groups, which takes place in horizontal method, so called ustod-shogird (master-student). In the group work old and skilled seamstress women teach girls of 16-20 years old the fineness of embroidery, selecting color threads and ornaments, and manners of sewing.

More formal learning of chakan ornaments and embroidery art take place in the Art schools and colleges, where pupils and students attend some lessons related to the element.

As well as some firms and none-governmental organizations such "Hunarmand", "Chakan" and "Haft paykar" play active role in the transmission of knowledge and skills of chakan embroidery art. NGO "Haft paykar" carries out master­classes of chakan embroidery for young women.

8. Responsible entity, state agency, institution

Office responsible for updation of the National Inventory List is Research Institute of Culture and Infonnation of the Republic of Tajikistan.

9. Access to the inventory:

The English version of the inventory is available at:

http:l/pitfi. ti/node/96

Name of element

E001

BOFANDAGI

E002 CHAKANDUZI

Short description

Hand textile. The process of traditional

weaving fabrics such as karbos, chit,

alacha, suf, adras, atlas, doka and etc.

Fabrics are weaved with cotton, wool,

silk and other threads. The textile

equipment is called as dukon, which are

made with wood.

The art of clrakan embroidery is a kind of

sewing ornaments, image of flowers and

Geographical

location

lsaravshan,

Khujand, Karatag, Hisar

symbolic drawings with colorful threads Khatlon region

on cotton or silk fabrics. Usually with

clzakan embroidery masters sew women

shirt, national cap, pillow, bedspread,

headscari, towel, curtain, coverlet for

cradle, curtain for wall decoration and

etc. In the chakan embroidery are used symbolic depictions and mythological

images related to the nature and cosmos,

which express peopEe's wishes and

hopes

279

Contemporary

situation of the

element

Under danger

of

disappearance

Viable

Published sources

and inventory

materials 1. Epwos H.H.

TKa'lCCTllO 1/ T aA)!Ona<

KapanmtHa H Aapsa3a.

T.l. A., 1966.

2. Typcy>~os H. ltfa

HCTOp•m ropOACKOro

pe~o~ecila ceaepHoro

TaAliOIKHCTima. A., 1974.

1. MaitTAHHOBa r.M. Yat.:aH xyAolKecT·

aeHHOit J()'ilb"I)'Pe

'T3,11lf(>tKOii;

n peeMCTBeHHOC'Tl>

Tp3AHU110HaAI13M /f 0Jep101 HCTOpH>t H

TeOplllt '-"YAb"t)'PIII 'T3A)I(.

HapoAa. ,4., 2006;

2. PaJQ<MO& A- I<ac6y

ll)'l'Jpl\011 a>naHaBHH

TCJ'IliKOU. A., 2014.