MWB MAGAZINE JULY ISSUE 214

ISSUE 214 | JULY 2014 | £6.95 | WWW.MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

FROM CITY DWELLERS TO ARMY LUXETHE BIGGEST TRENDS TOEMERGE FOR S/S 15 INMAINSTREAM MENSWEAR—GRIFFIN’S STAMPTHE MAN BEHIND BARACUTABLUE LABEL—REALITY IN RETAILSIX UK INDIES EXPLAIN WHATBUSINESS IS REALLY LIKE ON THE SHOP FLOOR—THROUGH THE GRITTHE BEST IN S/S 15CONTEMPORARY AND YOUNG FASHION—

mwb214 Main Document_Layout 1 04/07/2014 12:12 Page 2



WWW.MWB-ONLINe.CO.Uk JULY 2014 | 05

12 Online InsiderAdvice, news and issues online

14 Retail InsiderThe latest in-store news

17 Tomorrow’s world todayHighlights of this year’s Bira High Street conference

19 Working independently towards one goalThe benefits of independent buying group IMC

26 Product NewsRounding up the key stories this month

28 In-season stockSummer lovin’

30 Turning 50 with a smileProfiling menswear independent John Douglas

32 Show review: Pitti UomoSix of the stand-out labels at last month’s show

36 Collection NewsThe latest developments for the new season

40 Trends of summerFrom fabric innovations to the new twist on the classic nautical

50 Retail round-upSix independent retailers discuss the shop floor

56 Product News Rounding up the key stories this month

58 In-season stockFestival fever

60 Brick Lane highlightsKey names to catch at this season’s Jacket Required

64 London Collections: MenThe best of last month’s London showcase

67 DL1961 giving jeans the XFit factor Premium denim label DL1961’s first foray into menswear

68 Northern soulMWB’s seasonal young fashion photoshoot

7 Comment8 News20 Interview

Jeff Griffin

84 Collective87 The Bottomley Line90 Last Orders With…

Becky French

Front cover:

Boxfresh 020 8297 4635, Surf Liquor 07971 360690, Superdry 01242 578376, Palladium 07585 300402–

R E T A I L

G E N T

B R A N D G U I D E

D E N I M & S T R E E T

R E G U L A R S

weekendoffender.com

For sales and distribution enquiries contact

[email protected] +44(0)1332 342 068

WWW.MWB-ONLINe.CO.Uk JULY 2014 | 07

E D I T O R

Victoria Jackson [email protected]

—

D E P U T Y E D I T O R

Tom Bottomley [email protected]

—

C O N T R I B U T O R S

Isabella Griffiths [email protected]

Laura Turner [email protected]

Christina Williams [email protected]

—

S U B E D I T O R

Amanda Batley [email protected]

—

E D I T O R I A L A S S I S T A N T

Rebecca Jackson [email protected]

—

D E S I G N E R S

Michael Podger [email protected]

James Lindley [email protected]

Clive Holloway [email protected]

Richard Boyle [email protected]

—

S A L E S M A N A G E R

Sharon Le Goff [email protected]

—

S U B S C R I P T I O N S

Laura Martindale [email protected]

—

H E A D O F M E N S W E A R

Jamie Harden [email protected]

—

P R O D U C T I O N D I R E C T O R

Gill Brabham [email protected]

—

P O R T F O L I O D I R E C T O R

Nick Cook [email protected]

—

M A R K E T I N G D I R E C T O R

Stephanie Parker [email protected]

—

M A N A G I N G D I R E C T O R

Colette Tebbutt [email protected]

—

A Buyer Series Fashion Business PublicationMWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing

Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB and CWB. RAS Publishing Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.

MWB is published 9 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall,

Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232

Copyright © 2014 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved.Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any

purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictlyforbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability

for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submittedfor publication.

Reprographics/printingImage Colourprint Ltd 01482 652323

—

Latest research from industry analyst Mintel highlights an impressive growthof 18 per cent between 2008 and 2013 across the Uk menswear market,showing British men really are dedicated followers of fashion. During 2013,91 per cent of all men in the Uk bought new pieces of clothing.

Leading the way in the men’s fashion market is the 25-34 year old age group,with a quarter of this demographic admitting they are driven by the latestfashion when buying clothes, compared to just 17 per cent of women of the sameage. Surprising, no? And while this is certainly positive news for the industry –especially for those shops catering for this specific end of the market – Londonis really where these fashion-conscious males can be found, with almost threeout of ten (28 per cent) men saying trends are important when shopping, incomparison to just five per cent of their Northern counterparts in Yorkshire and Humberside.

This research comes as the spotlight remains firmly on British fashionfollowing a successful London Collections: Men (LC:M). And as preparations forLondon trade show Jacket Required get fully under way, never has our capital,nor our country, created such a noise on both a domestic and international levelin regard to men’s fashion. LC:M was a great success, with MWB hosting its owndrinks event in the Accessories Showroom at new location Victoria House tocelebrate the second day of the three-day showcase. If there was any doubtover London’s power on the global menswear landscape, it has been firmlyeradicated now.

Even as the heat shone in Florence at Pitti Uomo, it was the success ofLondon and British menswear that seemed to dominate conversations. Asdesigner Jeff Griffin explained in his interview with MWB’s Tom Bottomley at Pitti Uomo, when asked why Baracuta has increased its production in the UK, “It’s because the customer abroad is looking to buy a ‘part’ of Britain and demands it’s Made in England.” Here’s to continuing to put the “great” intoGreat Britain.

Victoria Jacksoneditor

COMMeNT

With recent figures showing a growthof 18 per cent in the Uk menswearmarket over the last five years, itseems style and appearance arebecoming more and more of a prominent issue in the livesof British men. —

WWW.MWB-ONLINe.CO.Uk JULY 2014 | NEWS | 08

MOST MPS BACK BUSINESSRATE REFORM

New research has indicated that eight in ten MPsagree that the current business rates system is “notfit for purpose”, despite the rejection by thegovernment of a call for reform by pressure groupslast month.

Following the submission of a proposal forreform by campaigners – which called for a sales-based tax rather than a property-based levy – theCoalition responded on 17 June by reasoning that theUK already had a sales tax in the form of VAT.

A poll carried out since the rejection, however, hasfound that 80 per cent of MPs admit that the currentsystem is “not fit for purpose” and is “in need offundamental reform”. The poll, which wascommissioned by the BRC, also found that theoverwhelming majority of MPs (93 per cent) agreedthat the reform of business rates was an important areafor the future success of high streets and town centres.

—

RAILWAY NEXT STOP FORRETAIL EVOLUTION

Time-starved consumers will soon have the option tofactor in clothes shopping to their daily commuteunder new plans to roll-out Click & Collect pointsacross the country’s rail network.

In stark contrast to other Click & Collect points– usually stationed within garages and conveniencestores – the new Doddle stations will allow shoppersto try on their purchases on site, and return themimmediately at the same point if they are unsuitable.

The scheme has been piloted with the country’sfirst Doddle point at Milton Keynes station, and willbe rolled-out to London Waterloo, Bromley South,Brighton, Chelmsford and London Cannon Streetstations before the end of August. There are furtherplans to open the collection points at 300 stationsnationwide over the next three years.

—

N E W S

New legislation introduced at the beginning of this month gives all workers the right to request flexible working patterns from their employer. The right, whichwas previously limited to parents and carers, has been rolled-out to the Uk’s entire workforce in a bid to bring working practices “up-to-date” with modern family lifestyles.

While employers will be obliged to consider requests in a “reasonable manner”,they will be under no obligation to meet demands for flexibility in the workplace.Employers are, however, urged to see the potential benefits of flexible working patterns,particularly for those wishing to seek further training alongside vocational work.

“Modern businesses know that flexible working boosts productivity and staffmorale, and helps them keep their top talent so that they can grow,” says deputy PrimeMinister Nick Clegg. “It’s about time we brought working practices bang up-to-date withthe needs, and choices, of our modern families.”

Some industry groups, however, have reacted with disdain to the news, pointingout that many employers – including retailers – will simply not be able to accommodateflexibility above and beyond a working day dictated by opening hours, and that a refusalof a request could lead to a negative dynamic in the workplace.

“We know from our own membership that more than three quarters of our membersoffer flexible working, but there will be a small number of small businesses who will notbe able to do that, whether it’s through cost or just from balancing their teams,” saysLisle Brown from the Federation of Small Businesses.

Mark Shulman, consultant solicitor at Keystone Law, adds, “In practice, if there is adispute about an employee’s flexible working request, an employment tribunal can onlyorder the employer to reconsider the application and award compensation – capped atjust eight weeks’ pay at the statutory rate (currently £464 per week). Tribunals cannotquestion the permitted business reasons behind an employer’s decision to refuse arequest or order that the request be granted.

“But employers should be aware of the risks of a potential discrimination claim ifthey refuse a flexible working request,” says Shulman. “This typically occurs where suchrequests relate to childcare commitments or religious requirements. For those types ofdiscrimination claims, compensation is potentially uncapped.”

—

WORKERS GAINFLEXIBILITY RIGHTS

WWW.MWB-ONLINe.CO.Uk JULY 2014 | NEWS | 09

HENRI LLOYD LAUNCHESEXCLUSIVELY IN USC

Henri Lloyd’s new concept area opened last monthin the new USC store on Oxford Street, stocking theHenri Lloyd Black Label and mainline lifestylecollections. Focused around the brand’s sailing roots,the new design of the area presents a fresh look forthe brand and features clean lines and amonochrome colour palette. World renowned sailorSir Ben Ainslie features in two exclusive imageswithin the store.

The collection in USC features performance-inspired fabrics and pieces revolving around keyseasonal products, with elements of the clothing linereflecting features found in the brand’s technicalMarine section.

Product offerings range from classic staplepieces such as polo shirts from the mainlinecollection to technical performance jackets from theBlack Label collection.

—

MOSS LONDON LAUNCHESFOR A/W 14

Moss Bros has unveiled its latest development – MossLondon, a sub-brand designed to cater for a youngercustomer that will go on sale at the end of July.

The range will include slim-fit suits, shirts,outerwear and accessories, with inspiration takendirectly from the streets of London. Detailingincludes contrasting insert panels, leatherette trimsand bottle green tartan weaves.

“The idea around the brand is that London isubiquitous,” says Jemima Bird, commercial andoperations director, Moss Bros. “You don’t have to befrom London to have the spirit of London, it’s aboutmovement, passion and individuality.

“For us, these campaigns are about changingpeople’s perception about Moss Bros,” she continues.“We are a modern retailer that has a fresh directionyou probably wouldn’t have thought of.”

—

SALES GROWTH FORDEPARTMENT STORES

John Lewis sales rose by 4.6 per cent in June on ayear-on-year basis against the same time last year,with fashion sales in particular seeing a boost of 5.5 per cent. Competitor Debenhams, meanwhile,also reported growth throughout its second quarter,indicating that department stores are holding their own as the UK economy struggles towards a recovery.

The news comes as Debenhams confirms plansto open Sports Direct and Costa Coffee concessionswithin its stores as part of a wider move to offer amore lifestyle-led shopping experience. Debenham’soverall strategy – as outlined in April – is to evolveaway from a reliance on discount led sales and toinstead deliver more full-price sales throughout 2014and beyond.

—

INDUSTRY TEAMS SIGN-UP TOCHALLENGE POVERTY

Teams from across the fashion industry are onceagain signing up for the ninth annual Prima SolutionsAdventure Challenge, supported by MWB and WWB.

Taking place on 20 September 2014 in thescenic Exmoor national park in Somerset, the eventwill see teams take on the challenge of completing amarathon distance on foot, bike and canoe. Fundsraised will support leading poverty-fighting charityCare International.

Over the past eight years the event hasattracted teams from the likes of Marks & Spencer,Hugo Boss, Gucci and Michael Kors, as well assuppliers and recruiters from across the fashionworld, including teams from ITE Moda, publisher ofMWB (pictured). Throughout that time, the event hasraised over £410,000 to support Care’s work. Forfurther information or to get involved, visitwww.carechallenge.org.uk/primasolutions.

—

SUCCESS FOR MEET THE MANUFACTURERThe first Meet the Manufacturersourcing show and conference took placeon 11-12 June at London’s Old TrumanBrewery, attracting almost 3,000visitors. Attendees descended on theevent, organised by Make it British,the campaign for UK manufacturing, tomeet some of the UK’s topmanufacturers, factories andcraftspeople, and support the return ofBritish-made fashion and textiles.

Retail consultant Mary Portas andIan Maclean, of handcrafted Britishknitwear label John Smedley, headlinedthe conference, where more than 20industry experts passed on advice and first-hand experience of buildingGreat British brands, successfullymanufacturing in the UK, and workingwith British factories.

Kate Dawson, founder of the All-in-One Company, which manufactures inAshington, Northumberland, producingbespoke all-in-one sleepsuits foradults and children, was among theconference speakers. “Meet theManufacturer was an outstanding event –I’ve met so many fantastic people who Ican relate to, and I no longer feelisolated in this industry,” she says.

“I feel so proud to have been apart of this landmark event and hopethat I have inspired others to followin my footsteps and make a commitmentto British manufacturing – as togetherwe can save the knowledge and skillsthat are vital to this industry beforeit is too late.”

—BIRKENSTOCK RELOCATES LONDON FLAGSHIPSTOREGerman footwear brand Birkenstock hasopened a new flagship store on 24 NealStreet in London, introducing a moremodern and brighter look that is saidto reflect the label’s futureaesthetic. The 600 sq ft store featureswhite walls covered with minimalist oakshelves and is designed to becontemporary and balanced by simple,handmade wood furniture, adding warmthand softness, but also acting as areflection of the shoemaker’s craft.The rear of the store will be fittedwith a feature wall and iPads, whichwill allow customers to browse and buy directly from the Birkenstock web store.

—BRITISH RETAILERS MISSING OUT ON £1BNADVERTISING REVENUESBritish retailers that trade online arefailing to maximise the potentialrevenue of their websites, according tonew research. The findings – publishedby strategy consultant OC&C – indicatethat just two of the country’s top tenretailers sell media space to thirdparties on their websites. In the US,meanwhile, eight of the country’sleading online retailers use displayads and featured products to boost therevenue of their online operation.“Although the UK is one of the mostadvanced online retail markets in theworld, British retailers are behind thecurve when it comes to monetisingshoppers as well as browsers on theirwebsite,” says Anita Balchandani,partner at OC&C. “This may be becausee-retailers are concerned thatadvertising on their websites couldpotentially deflect consumers away fromtheir site, or they may worry about theeffects on consumer perceptions oftheir brand.”

—

IN BRIeF

www.mwB-oNlINE.co.uk JULY 2014 | NEWS | 10

BESTSELLER ACQUIRES M&M DIRECT

Danish fashion house Bestseller has acquired M&MDirect for an undisclosed sum. The company, whosefashion labels include Selected Homme and Jack &Jones, bought the retailer in a deal that will becompleted within eight weeks.

“I believe M&M Direct will continue to developand become a leading company within its business andits markets,” says Bestseller founder Anders HolchPovlsen. “Moreover, I trust that a closer collaborationwill become beneficial for both our companies in thelong-term. We have worked with M&M for severalyears, and have come to know the people within thecompany as passionate and hard-working people whohave achieved many positive results lately, and I lookforward to working with them in the future.”

M&M Direct is an online and mail order retailer,specialising in end-of-line clearance fashion andsporting goods, with over 1.3 million active customers.

—

INTERNATIONAL LINE-UP ATJACKET REQUIRED

Jacket Required will unveil spring collections acrossan internationally diverse portfolio of brands at itsseventh edition this month.

The invitation-only event, which takes place atEast London’s Old Truman Brewery on 30-31 July,welcomes brands from Scandinavia and mainlandEurope, as well as flying the flag for distinctive Britishstyle with the unveiling of the latest collections fromthe UK’s most directional menswear labels.

Danish label Han Kjøbenhavn will arrive at theevent with its collection of men’s apparel andeyewear, revealing a diversified collection for s/s 15.Fellow Scandinavian label Brixtol, meanwhile, willunveil a new offer of focused outerwear, inspired bythe unlikely influences of Swedish culture and Britishmod style. Turn to page 60 for MWB’s full rundownof the brands to catch this season.

—

PITTI UOMO SEES FIVE PERCENT VISITOR INCREASE

Closing figures from the 86th edition of premiummenswear show Pitti Uomo recorded a five per centincrease in overall buyer attendance, with over19,000 buyers attending from markets includingJapan, Germany, the UK, Spain and the US.

Tim Sturmheit, buyer for UK website Oki-Ni,visited the show in search of new product, especiallyin the accessories department. “It is easy to offerthings pleasing to the touch, whose quality is easilyperceived by touching them, but Pitti is also focusedon products for online shopping, which is Oki-Ni’sarea of expertise,” says Sturmheit.

“I found some very interesting offerings, evenin the accessories field, which is our speciality, evenbetter than those found at previous editions of thefair,” he continues, “We offer top-quality men’s clothingand accessories so, to our customers, the price is lessimportant than quality, which must be excellent.”

—

CIFF LAUNCHES NEW DESIGN-DRIVEN AREAS

Copenhagen International Fashion Fair (CIFF) willlaunch two new areas – Sleek and Lab – for its s/s 15 show.

Running parallel with Crystal Hall, Sleek willexhibit some of the most innovative and exclusivebrands in womenswear, such as YDE, AmericanVintage and Ganni. Lab, meanwhile, will welcomeyoung, upcoming talent in streetwear and menswearwith names including Art Comes First, Lou Dalton,Baartmans and Siegel and Peter Jensen.

“The purpose of the new areas is to strengthenthe brands represented by CIFF,” says Kristian WAndersen, design and fashion director at CIFF. “Overthe last few years, our platform has grownsignificantly and therefore it is necessary to segmentthe fair so that the brands are presented in the bestway. At the same time, we are making the visit to CIFFmore effective and manageable for buyers.”

—

NEW RETAIL PARK PLANS FOR OXFORDSHIREPlans have been confirmed for a newretail park in Oxfordshire on Acorn Wayin Banbury. The £80m development willbe built on a site alongside the M40,with work starting on the project inSeptember this year. Clothing retailersM&S, Next and Primark have confirmedthey will take units within the BanburyPark development. The move will createbetween 800 and 1,000 jobs in the area.The site – owned by LXB RetailProperties – was formerly the HQ ofmotorsport company Prodrive. The retailpark is expected to be fullyoperational by December next year.

—MR PORTER ANNOUNCES COLLABORATION WITHMATTHEW VAUGHNMenswear e-tailer Mr Porter hasrevealed plans to launch a 60-piecemenswear collection in collaborationwith director Matthew Vaughn.

Inspired by Vaughn’s upcoming film,Kingsman: The Secret Service, thecollection – named Kingsman - willfeature throughout the film, which isset for a mid-October release.

“This is a hugely significantdevelopment for Mr Porter,” says TobyBateman, buying director at Mr Porter.“We are consistently looking to providethe best in men’s style to our globalcustomers and visitors, and theKingsman label combines the traditionalprecision of Savile Row tailoring witha modern silhouette. We have workedwith the best in class for each productcategory to develop this collection.”

—ANIMAL ANNOUNCES NEW EUROPEAN STOCKISTLeading UK action sports lifestylebrand Animal has announced it will bestocked in Blue Tomato, Europe’sleading action sport e-tailer.

Based in Austria, with 16 stores inboth Austria and Germany, Blue Tomatoboasts over 500,000 subscribers.

“Blue Tomato is a fantasticretailer of action-sports brands and weare delighted they see such potentialfor Animal in the European market,”says David Abramson, internationalsales director, Animal.

With Blue Tomato now in place,Animal is now targeting additionalEuropean customers and forecasts“strong double-digit growth onInternational sales in 2015”, accordingto Abramson.

—AMERICAN EAGLE POISED TO LAND IN UKUS brand American Eagle Outfitters isset to arrive in the UK, followingtalks with UK property agent HarperDennis Hobbs.

The menswear and womenswear label –one of the largest in the US – willinitially launch into the UK via astore in Westfield’s Stratford CityShopping Centre, with a further storeopening potentially planned forBluewater in Kent.

The brand targets the young fashionconsumer in the 15-25 year-olddemographic with affordable fashion andhas over 1,000 stores in the US. Thelabel is the latest US brand in thatgenre to make the move over theAtlantic, following in the footsteps ofForever 21 and Urban Outfitters – whichhave successfully made their mark onthe UK high street.

—

IN BRIEF

WWW.MWB-ONLINe.CO.Uk JULY 2014 | ADVICE | 12

ONLINe INSIDeRadvice, news and issues online.

WeB WaTCh

WWW.TheIDLeMaN.COM

Designed for the 20-something fashion-savvy man,shopping website The Idle Man launched earlier thisyear with start-up capital from Private Equity groupForesight Group. The brainchild of former head ofmenswear at Asos, Oliver Tezcan, the site offers awide selection of brands including Mi-Pac, FarahVintage and Vans. “Men are always an after-thoughtin fashion,” says Tezcan. “Men’s ranges are hiddenin the basement or plonked on three shelves onthe top floor. Over the years I’ve had a naggingfeeling that the average guy could be servicedbetter – and that’s what The Idle Man will do.”

—

ADVICE: Why MOBILe IS key FOR ReTaILeRSBUT ONLy ONe PaRT OF The PUzzLe

GaVIN MaSTeRS ishead of e-commerceconsultancy MaginusSoftware Solutions,and can be contactedthroughwww.maginus.com

Today’s shopper is demanding. The constant influx of new channels andtechnologies has meant that consumer expectations have never beenhigher, with many craving the highest level of convenience when they headto a retailer.

Mobile is a trend that has long been serving this audience, and one thatretailers have been relying on more and more to create a seamless onlineshopping experience. But while the technology continues to dominate theheadlines, it’s becoming easy for other channels to be somewhat pushed aside.

Although still present, the desktop has recently become a far lesscommon shopping channel, with many consumers preferring to browse forproducts on the go. And although it has never been more important thatretailers embrace this change, it is also just as important that its less popularshopping channels do not get completely neglected. Understanding thedifferences between a customer who is looking at your site on a mobile, ona smart TV, or browsing your site to collect in-store is critical to success.

The key is to remain consistent, allowing your brand to remain just asstrong across each offering, as catching a consumer on their mobile can bethe perfect way to draw them to other channels at your business. So in thissense, retail marketers need to put a significant amount of effort into multi-screen and multi-device strategies to deliver a relevant, optimised andconsistent experience regardless of a particular device.

In the midst of a mobile boom, it is easy to become distracted, but it’svital that retailers do not forget customers that are not adhering to the trend.Retailers that are able to understand what their customers are doing online,in-store and on their mobiles, are ultimately the ones that will secure themost loyalty among its shoppers. Only then will retailers be equipped withthe information needed to build on their customer experience going forward,ensuring the needs of all of their customers, regardless of how they areshopping, are met.

—

BOXPARK’S AWARD-WINNING APPShoreditch pop-up mall Boxpark has wonthe UK App Design Award for Best Retail& Shopping App. Attracting over 160entrants in its first year, the Awardswere announced by design100 CEO andfounder Mark Bergin as part of LondonTech Week.

The Boxpark app for independentretailers allows consumers to buy fromthe pop-up stores via online or mobile,and includes a feature called Scan toShop, which allows customers to sharetheir favourite products.

The Boxpark Marketplace App wasbuilt by POQ, and is built on a Magentoplatform with built-in Paypal paymentsolution.

—

ASOS BACK ONLINE AFTER FIREOnline retail giant Asos was forced tosuspend trading for 48 hours, followinga fire at its South Yorkshire warehouselast month.

The blaze – which police aretreating as arson – forced the retailerto cease taking orders on its site.However, the business was back up-and-running just three days later.

The Barnsley warehouse containsaround 70 per cent of the retailer’s£159m worth of stock. Initial reportsindicate that the fire destroyed around20 per cent of this, although none ofthe 60,000 sq ft warehouse’sinfrastructure was damaged.

“We are fully insured for loss ofstock and business interruption,” saysAsos in a statement released soon afterthe outbreak of the fire, which saw 500people evacuated from the five-storybuilding.

It is the second time in theretailer’s 14-year history that Asoshas been blighted by fire. In 2005,Asos was forced to stop trading overChristmas after an explosion at theBuncefield oil depot near its previouswarehouse in Hertfordshire.

—

NeWS

3 R D E D I T I O N

H O N G K O N G

2 7 - 2 8 A U G U S T 2 0 1 4

A S I A ’ S P R E M I U M B R A N D A N D D E S I G N E R F A S H I O N T R A D E E V E N T

T H E H U B . H K

3 R D E D I T I O N

H O N G K O N G

2 7 - 2 8 A U G U S T 2 0 1 4

A S I A ’ S P R E M I U M B R A N D A N D D E S I G N E R F A S H I O N T R A D E E V E N T

T H E H U B . H K

NeIL RaVeN is managingdirector of Raven’s ofSouthend and a member ofthe Fashion association of Britain (FaB).

WWW.MWB-ONLINe.CO.Uk JULY 2014 | RETAIL | 14

ReTaILINSIDeR

VIEWPOINT

Menswear as a sector has made hugechanges in the past few years, but I still findthat our trade is very much dictated by theweather. Fortunately the past six weeks havegiven us the good summer temperatures thatwe need.

For some reason, we have struggled withTommy Hilfiger and Henri Lloyd this season;whereas we have had a particular success storywith Meyer trousers and continued successwith Gant.

When products do take off, it’s essentialthat we can have re-orders fulfilled. Meyer hasbeen a great example of a supplier providingreliable stock support. It’s been by far thebestselling brand this season. The hero item hasbeen a corded cotton trouser with a contrastingtrim around the pockets that retails for £95. Ihave never had such a strong-selling trouser. Imust have put down an initial order of 15 andwe have easily put in re-orders of another 20.

It’s true that there is a strong trendtowards more casual dressing, and I think thepopularity in shirting details and contrastingstitching is partly responsible for a lowering ofour average age demographic. Such detailsallow the customer to update a look easilywhile still avoiding anything too formal.

Having said that, we do still sell a goodnumber of suits, which form an important partof our business. We are reconsidering whetherto continue with the suit-hire business. Wedropped wedding suit hire a few years ago toopen the ladies’ shoes and accessoriesdepartment and now we only hire tuxedos.This can be very labour-intensive, so we shallneed to look at the figures on that again.

Going forward, the next few monthsshould be exciting for us, as we have found anintern to work full-time on developing ourwebsite. Essex University is part-funding theinternship. It’s exciting to see what we canachieve with more resource.www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk

CONTINUED GROWTH FORTHE BROTIQUE

Menswear independent The Brotique has widened its offer to establish itself as the place to go for careproducts and grooming goods.

Opening in Edinburgh in November 2013, the Saint Stephen Street store was set up in anastonishing 24 days, from idea to execution, by co-founders Richard Murphy and Crawford Coutts.“With our love of products and our natural ability to curate, market and sell, we created The Brotiqueas an outlet for our own interests and provided a hub for people who appreciate and desire authentic,high-quality, original and definitive products,” says Murphy.

The store has the largest selection of beard and moustache products in the UK, as well as the newlaunch of The Brotique ManHamper – a handpicked selection of grooming products in a black hamper.

—

IN BRIeF

The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry.—

TOPMAN LAUNCHES PERSONAL SHOPPING SUITETopman has launched a dedicated personalshopping suite on the third floor of itsOxford Circus branch as part of anoverhaul of its flagship store. The suitehas doubled in size from its originalsecond-floor location, and is staffed byan extended team of personal shoppers,headed up by Andrew Allan, former menswearmanager at luxury retailer Matches.Customers will be able to pre-bookpersonal shopping appointments, rangingfrom a 30-minute Fast Fashion Fix to atwo-hour Ultimate Wardrobe Overhaul. Allappointments are complimentary.

—

USC opens flagship on Oxford StreetMulti-branded retailer USC has opened anew flagship store on London’s iconicOxford Street in celebration of its 25thanniversary. The 17,363 sq ft store –which opened last month – debuted with anextensive portfolio of spring collectionsacross menswear and womenswear from labelsincluding G-Star Raw, Lacoste, Levi’s,Replay, Weekend Offender, Pretty Green,Vans, Puma, Converse, William Rast,Religion and Henri Lloyd. In addition tothe brands, shoppers will find exclusiveproducts from G-Star, Lacoste and Replay.

—

WWW.MWB-ONLINe.CO.Uk JULY 2014 | RETAIL | 15

SHOPPED: LIzaRD MeNSWeaR

IN FOCUS: DICk’S

FOUR LONDON STOREOPENINGS FOR SUPERGA

Spitalfields welcomed the opening of Italianfootwear label Superga’s fourth store last month.Located at 105b Commercial Road, the launch willcontinue to boost the brand’s growing presencein the UK and further establish it as a key playerin the UK footwear market.

Superga already has stores in Camden,Covent Garden and its flagship on CarnabyStreet. The interior of the Spitalfields shop willcontinue to reflect the label’s simple andminimalist style.

Scaffolding shelving units will be utilised togive the space a more industrial finish; devotingprimary focus to the extensive variety of colours,fabrics, and prints in the product range.

The new store will be the second largest outof the existing locations in London, offering a vastrang of men’s, women’s and children’s footwear.

—

how has the first year of trading in Farnham been for you?My dad has had Lizard in Richmond since 1979, but I’ve been runningthe Farnham shop since March 2013, and it’s been tougher than weexpected it to be. But it’s becoming more positive, and we’ve laid thefoundations to build on. I’m now 24, and started as a Saturday boy at16, so I’m well versed in what we do well in Richmond. But it’s notsimply a case of replicating the formula, because any town you go intowith fresh eyes is going to have a slightly different customer base.

—So how different is Farnham to Richmond?It’s very fractionally at a lower end of the market, sowe’ve brought in some pieces from brands such asNative Youth that have performed well. However,generally speaking, we’re trying to trade up. We’vepicked up Sunspel for this autumn, and we wouldn’tordinarily try to sell a plain T-shirt for £60. We’re

also bringing back Nicole Farhi. Paul Smith remains our strongestperforming brand.—how are you bringing newness to the business in general?I’ve created the new website and have got us active on social media.Every business now needs to have that presence; it gives you a moreprofessional appearance and it’s a huge part of the industry. Some ofthe best stores in the UK that I follow now have a huge presence, andI think that’s something that we should be looking to try to increase.

—

LEE COOPER OPENS IN IRELANDFollowing its recent significant successin the European market, denim brand LeeCooper has opened its latest store inIreland. The licensed business appointedFashion Distribution as its Irish partnerin early 2013, and together they havedeveloped Ireland’s first offering of theLee Cooper brand by softly launching thelabel’s a/w 14 menswear range in key denimindependent stores across the country.Immediate plans for growth of the brand inIreland are to secure further independentstockists and establish dedicated LeeCooper concessions in department stores.

—

heNRyThReaDINGhaMMANAGER/BUYER,LIZARD MENSWEAR,FARNHAM, SURREY,AND RICHMONDUPON THAMES

3 NORTh WeST CIRCUS PLaCe, eDINBURGh eh3 6ST

eSTaBLISheD: NOVEMBER 2012BRaNDS INCLUDe: ANDERSEN-ANDERSEN,BARACUTA, BARENA,CORGI, CRESCENTDOWN WORKS, ERIBÉ,FILSON, GOLDEN BEAR,GREVI, GRP, HARLEY, INISMEÁIN, LAVENHAM,LOCK HATTERS,MACKINTOSH, MERZ BSCHWANEN, NEWENGLAND SHIRT CO,ORCIVAL, PARABOOT,SANDERS, SCHIESSER,STUTTERHEIM, SUNSPEL.

husband-and-wife team andrew Dick and Uli Schade run a tight ship, with emphasis on qualityand classic styles. Dick’s offers a varied selection of brands, and is pretty unique for edinburgh.

The shop is positioned just outside the centre of Edinburgh in the New Town. It’s an area that hasalways had independent shops, bars and restaurants. Dick’s mother tells him he’s the fifth generation ofhis family to be in the area, as his great grandfather once had a tailoring business just up the road. Priorto setting up shop, the couple lived in London, where Dick was a production journalist at The Guardian,and Schade a well-respected photographer of interiors. Neither had a track record in the retail business.“We were careful to select brands that weren’t sold in Edinburgh – one of the reasons we thoughtthere was a place for the shop in the first place,” says Dick. “We’re pleased with how most things havesold, especially since we have introduced a number of new brands for our second summer. Sunspel isa great performer for us, but I think I’m most pleased with GRP, an artisan knitter from Tuscany, andour New England Shirt Co shirts, which are made especially for us in Massachusetts.” The retailer alsosells a range of accessories and homeware.

—

IN BRIeF

jul 8–10 aug 9–12STATION-Berlin MOC Munich

PREMIUM INTERNATIONAL FASHION TRADE SHOW PREMIUM ORDER MUNICH

SPRING/SUMMER 2015

WWW.PREMIUMEXHIBITIONS.COM


www.mwB-oNlINE.co.uk JULY 2014 | REPORT | 17

TomoRRow’SwoRld TodAy

The British Independent Retailers Association (Bira) held its annual High Street conference lastmonth, discussing the challenges of retailing and the impact technology has on the shops of the

future. Isabella Griffiths reports.

Following in the footsteps of last year’ssuccessful debates, The British IndependentRetailers Association (Bira) once again invitedits members and key industry personalities tocome together and discuss the challenges andopportunities retailers are facing, now and inthe future.

Retail veteran Bill Grimsey, former CEO ofWickes, Iceland and Focus DIY and author of lastyear’s alternative assessment of the high street,the Grimsey Review, kicked off proceedings withhis talk on Preparing High Streets and TownCentres for the 21st century. “If there are only afew things that you will remember from thispresentation, I want you to go away with this,” hesaid. “1. The future has never ever been moreexciting for the retail sector than right now. 2. It’sonly going to be exciting if you are prepared tochange. 3. Among all the negatives that you hearabout high streets and how bad it is forindependent retailers – well, it’s just as bad for thebig guys.”

Grimsey put developments in technology,and especially the invention of the internet andrise of mobile devices, at the heart of his speech,and argued that both need to be embraced by theretail world as they are the only way to turnaround the fortunes of high streets up and down

the country. Quoting some of the findings from hisGrimsey Review, which constituted that town-centre planners need to re-think how they useempty store spaces and put technology at theheart of the solution, he said, “You might think it’stough for you, but the big guys are in an evenbigger pickle. The ‘big four’ – Tesco, Sainsbury’s,Morrisons and Asda – in 10-15 years, won’t be hereany more if they don’t adapt to the changing faceof retail and embrace technology. They’ve got toomuch costly retail space – but do we need all thisspace in the future? Do you think Philip Green[Arcadia Group] is going to renew 80 per cent ofhis leases that are coming up for renegotiation inthe next five years? No, because he knows thattechnology is coming.”

But equally he stressed that the onus was onindependent retailers themselves to also innovateand embrace technology and use it to createunique customer experiences that will make theirstores stand out and create “community hubs”instead of “clone towns”, which are driven byshopping, leisure, housing and employment. “Wedon’t need clone towns with the same shops inevery town; we need community hubs,” saysGrimsey. “The future is to have an independenttown that gives you an experience; where peoplewant to live, work and visit.

“And independents are part of this,” hecontinued. “I’m going to ban the term ‘customerservice’ from our industry. It is meaningless.Forget it; it’s an overused term. It’s about anexperience. It’s about the customer experience,and we, the retailer, have to create that. The futureof the high street depends on the political will, thelocal will and independent traders who are willingto bring diversity and uniqueness to a town.”

This was followed by a series of shortinterviews hosted by BBC business editor StephMcGovern, who delved into three of the burningissues impacting the daily life of independentretailers. Michael Weedon, Bira’s deputy CEO,discussed the impact of the current business ratesystem, which has been at the centre of muchpublic debate recently. “There has been propertytax in this country for hundreds of years, but thebusiness rates that we have today have beendesigned in 1988 and implemented in 1990, andsince then all sorts of things have changed,” heanalysed, reiterating the call of the retail industryon the government to urgently reform and reviewthe current system. “The most significant isprobably that you no longer actually need a shop,or a physical presence at all to retail. So theframework is changing, but the taxation systemremains as it was.”

BBC BUSINESSEDITOR

STEPH MCGOVERN

>>>

jul 8–10 aug 9–12STATION-Berlin MOC Munich

PREMIUM INTERNATIONAL FASHION TRADE SHOW PREMIUM ORDER MUNICH

SPRING/SUMMER 2015

WWW.PREMIUMEXHIBITIONS.COM

WWW.MWB-ONLINe.CO.Uk JULY 2014 | REPORT | 18

Weedon said it would be fairer to make therevaluation system simpler, so a review can beundertaken much more frequently, “Because therate of economic change is accelerating all thetime, and we need to respond to that,” he said.“The current system has two main effects; itaffects profitability and it discourages retailersfrom opening more shops,” he put forward, bothof which were detrimental to the industry.

However, Weedon did not paint an entirelybleak picture; on the contrary. Quoting latestfigures from the Local Data Company, he said thatindependents are faring better than their high-street equivalents, with town centres showinghealthier vacancy rates than out-of-town centres,with certain sectors in particular showing strongsigns of survival. “Service and leisureindependents especially seem to be still goingstrong, due to the nature of their business – afterall, it’s difficult to get a haircut or a tattoo on theinternet,” he said.

The “e-commerce revolution” was at theheart of McGovern’s interview with Joan Woolfe,CEO of e-tailer Cooking Marvellous, who sharedher success story since launching the business in2007, accelerated by the rise of e-commerce, andattested that retailers have to keep up with thetechnology constantly. “As an online retailer,things are moving incredibly quickly, and you haveto constantly adapt,” he said. “Customers havemoved on, and customer expectations havemoved on and changed – they expect more all thetime and you have to deliver.”

Neil Moss, head of business at the NationalSkills Academy, meanwhile, talked about the“retail skills gap”, which is another challenge

retailers are facing. “There aretoo many young people comingout of education who haven’tgot the employability skills thatour sector needs,” he said,adding that more support andencouragement from thegovernment is needed to makeretailing an attractiveproposition for young peopleand securing the future of thesector. “The problem is that thegovernment doesn’t get theretail sector and its importance.We need to do a lot morelobbying to make them understand just how muchretail matters, particularly in terms of jobs andwages. It is not a low-skill, low-wage sector.”

Finally, Martijn Bertisen, senior industry headof retail at Google UK, took to the stage, givingan insightful presentation on “the store of thefuture”. Exploring the big trends that arehappening in the digital world over the nextdecade or two, he emphasised the huge impact ofthe internet and new technologies on both retailitself and how consumers shop.

According to Bertisen, Google estimatesthat, by 2020, 100 per cent of the world’spopulation will have access to online. And withcomputing power doubling every 18 months, itposes new opportunities – and challenges – onretailers in terms of how they engage with theircustomers. “Change has never happened this fastbefore, and it will never be as slow again,” he said,telling the audience, “Technology is enablingshoppers to get to your store. We are entering a

six-screen world – people areaccessing online through theirdesktop computers, mobiles,TVs, tablets as well as wearableand in-car devices. Mobiledevelopment will thereforeremain critical.”

He cited the developmentof Google Glass as a keyexample – an invention which,when first announced, receiveda lot of scepticism fromindustry and consumers alike,but will now be rolled out as anin-store device across a

number of retailers at the end of the year. “Thingslike Google Glass are coming – and they can makethe physical in-store experience much richer,” saidBertisen. “Multi-channel is crucial for retailers.

“The meaning of ‘www’ is changing; it’s nowmore like ‘what we want’, ‘where we want’ and‘when we want’,” he continued, outlining his keypieces of advice to retailers, “Wise up. Use data –online shopping is giving you a wealth of data[about your customers] that you can use forbusiness strategy, get ahead on consumer trendsand competition behaviour. Data beats opinion.Win the moments that matter. This means openup every single sales channel and be great atevery single one.

Think speed. Being 10 per cent better is notgood enough any more; think more along the linesof being 10 times better – aim for that all the time.Digital allows you to test things easily and pushyour business along quicker and more effectively– think big and be brave.”

MARTIJN BERTISEN, SENIORINDUSTRY HEAD OF RETAIL,GOOGLE UK

JOAN WOOLFE, CEO,COOKING MARVELLOUS

NEIL MOSS, HEAD OFBUSINESS, NATIONAL

SKILLS ACADEMY

RETAIL VETERAN BILL GRIMSEY MICHAEL WEEDON, DEPUTY CEO, BIRA

“I’m going to ban theterm ‘customerservice’ from ourindustry. It ismeaningless. Forgetit; it’s an overusedterm. It’s about anexperience. It’s aboutthe customerexperience, and we,the retailer, have tocreate that”

WWW.MWB-ONLINe.CO.Uk JULY 2014 | REPORT | 19

It has been said before, but independentretailing needn’t be lonely, nor should retailersfeel isolated. as John Donne put it, “No man isan island, entire of itself”, and neither should anindependent retailer feel the need to workalone in order to preserve their independence.

When it comes to retail groups andassociations, the burning question is why moreretailers are not a part of at least one, given thebenefits and opportunities that membershipaffords. As a sector, independent retailers shouldbe a team, club and network, and it’s hardly rocketscience to note that its potential to thrive andcompete with the multiples’ buying power isalways going to be determined by strength innumbers and mutual co-operation.

IMC has been operating in one form oranother for more than 30 years. Formerly TheABC Group, IMC formulated its framework as anassociation for like-minded retailers in 1981. BobBaker of Chas H Baker in Salisbury was elected asthe first long-term chairman, and Uli Welker ofElliotts in Lymington was elected as the jointsecretary and treasurer. A lot has happened sincethis first meeting in 1981, but the principles ofbeing able to buy exclusive merchandise at themost advantageous prices remain. All IMCsuppliers offer a discount on their range andfrequently UK exclusivity, too.

With no compulsion to buy and no minimums,this is a buying group with all the benefits youwould expect and none of the bugbears that afflictmany other such groups. In addition to theobvious financial benefits, members additionallybenefit intellectually, not only by making newfriends with a common goal, but throughexperiencing a general willingness of fellowretailers to exchange ideas and information.

Twice a year, the IMC conference takes placeat Whittlebury Hall – an intimate, members-onlytrade show. Not only do the suppliers have acaptive audience of hungry retailers, focused andready to buy but, by getting together at anexclusive event, the retailers have the opportunityto share ideas on brands on-site before buying,thus minimising the risk factor and gainingvaluable insights which inform the decision-making.

Providing access to a select group ofpremium brands often requires legwork in Europe,which the IMC committee will take the brunt ofon behalf of the time-starved retailers. Obtainingexclusivity for the UK, better margins for itsmembers (no agent and distributor fees) andcontrol over distribution and discounting are justsome of the reasons why IMC membershipcontinues to grow. Moreover, in an industry wheretime is money, this research is invaluable.

Each year, the group seeks to offer its

members an experience that they wouldn'tnecessarily organise for themselves. Previously,this has included lunch at The Houses ofParliament and a successful visit to Magee inIreland. As the buying season approached,chairman Gary Culver suggested that the 2014AGM should involve a study tour to Berlin, takingplace in the three Berlin trade shows on 7-9 July –Premium, Panorama and Bread & Butter.

From a commercial point of view, the choiceof shows promised to cover the right mix of highfashion and classic clothing for Indies. As the IMCteam put it in their invitation to members, “This is a fantastic opportunity to see what the majorEuropean brands are showing and to gain aninsight into trends and looks for the future.” Thosewho have attended a study tour in the past willknow that they offer a precious opportunity tocompare and contrast, share knowledge andexchange ideas with fellow retailers. At the AGM,members had the opportunity to share theiropinions about the future direction of the group.With accommodation at the luxurious five-starPullman Schweizerhof Hotel, plus two eveningmeals, all paid for by IMC, it was an impressiveexample of the value of membership. Neither wasthe study tour all rest and no play, with the hotelconveniently located at the centre of Berlin,where local tourist attractions include KaDeWe,Europa Center and Bauhaus Archive.

As the retail industry becomes ever-morecompetitive, mutually supportive supplier-retailerrelationships are priceless in their value to bothparties. As a buying group, the IMC puts greatemphasis on the retailer-supplier dynamic andfacilitates relationship-building at the events. Ascommittee member Matthew Hansford, ofHansfords Menswear, says, “We talk together bothon the stands and in the bar, which benefitsproduct development and general understandingof each other.”

It is little surprise that the opportunity for IMC

members on the Berlin Study Tour to informallymeet with European suppliers was a major draw.The itinerary ensured that some of the brandsmade a special effort to welcome the travelling IMCmembers. Indeed, it’s hard to put a price on this.As if such attention to detail wasn’t evidenceenough of the value of such an event, thecommittee actively encourages members to bringalong their colleagues and partners to enjoy theexperience, thus encouraging motivation andsupport from all sides.

As independent retailers, it is easy to becomeheavily embroiled in mountains of paperwork,busy buying schedules and general admin-istration; so much so that the bigger pictureevades us. Counter-intuitive as it may seem, it’sthrough spending time with others with sharedinterests and adopting a quid pro quo attitudethat the workload can be lessened and new ideasdeveloped. Of course, the best kind of socialnetworking is that conducted in person and thehigh turnout at the IMC show – 80 per cent at thelast show – proves this to be the case. As NeilWelker of Elliott’s, son of Uli Welker, IMC’s firstsecretary and treasurer, says, “We are definitelystronger as a group. I love the meetings and theconferences and it’s worth remembering that aswith so many things in life, a problem shared is aproblem halved.”

Successful retailing is certainly an art ratherthan a science, and there are many mysteries thatsurround it. But the attraction of the IMC forindependent menswear retailers is crystal clear. Inthe words of Hansford, “The bottom line is thatthere’s no reason as an independent menswearretailer not to be a member. It’s fun, informativeand, above all, profitable.”

If you are a menswear retailer or supplierwho would like to find out more about theactivities of IMC and how it could benefit yourbusiness, call Fiona Coe on 01473 256061 or visitwww.imcmenswear.co.uk.

WORkING INDePeNDeNTLyTOWaRDS ONe GOaLThis season saw independent menswear buying group IMC cross the waters to Berlin as acollective for the first time, visiting Premium, Bread & Butter and Panorama. The study tour isjust one of the many benefits the IMC offers its members, as MWB discovers. —

www.mwB-oNlINE.co.uk JULY 2014 | INTERVIEW | 20

dESIGNERBARAcuTA BluE lABEl

INTERvIEw

Griffin is a globally respected Britishdesigner, not just for his own label,but also for the several excellentcollaborations he has done in thepast, and he’s now heading updesign for Baracuta’s top-end Blue label. Tom Bottomley gets his design perspective.—

Tom Bottomley: what attracted you to getinvolved with Baracuta to design the higher-endBlue label range in the first place? Jeff Griffin: l have collaborated with Baracuta inthe past – in 2008 and 2009 – and worked withthe label even earlier. It’s a small world and l lovethe brand. It’s an icon and there aren’t so manyicons so, of course, you want to be part of thejourney. We had been talking to Andrea Cane, thecreative director of WP Lavori – who now ownsthe Baracuta brand – regarding working onWoolrich John Rich & Bros, another of theirbrands, for a long time. It was a nice conversationthat somehow turned into a story about thehistory of Baracuta and the reason to have aBritish designer. l wanted them to understand therichness of this country, from the strength of theyouth culture to the fabrications such as HarrisTweed on the Islands, to Moxon in Yorkshire andWilliam Bliss in the West Country.—TB: How are you taking the look and feel of the collection?JG: It’s funny because the first season was cleanwith a beautiful brief, conceptual and looking tothe future. It was about playing with the iconicjackets. Season two, for s/s 15, is what the realityof sales agents from across the world require. Forexample, Japan has followed the brand for a longtime, with the whole Steve McQueen thing and soon. But Korea and China haven’t really heard ofthe brand. In the UK, it has the background with

jEFF GRIFFIN

www.mwB-oNlINE.co.uk JULY 2014 | INTERVIEW | 21

the Mods and skinheads and, in Italy, it’s an olderman’s summer jacket. So season two is stillexciting, but it’s about really looking at the iconsto underline them and make them stand-outpieces. We were asked to do a British Armycamouflage G9 Harrington and, what can l say, itlooks great. —TB: what key pieces can we expect to see in thes/s 15 collection?JG: We have different stories, the first of which is about the “future” G9 Harrington and G10raincoat, using a highly technical Italian ultra-lightweight stretch Nylon, which is supercomfortable, with a foam mesh for the body. Wealso have the British traditional fabrics but used ina modern way – a G9, but done with contrast,using a Yorkshire wool and linen design but mixedwith a Scottish cloth to make a cycling jacket. It’squite different.—TB: Is the range dual branded, ie jeff Griffin forBaracuta Blue label? JG: No it’s not a dual-branded collection, becausewe work on many projects from our studio. Wedesign around 10 collections a year, some inJapan, others from the UK to Italy. So l can’t putmy name on everything, as it’s the main thing weall own – our name! Also, it could weaken ourbrand in the market. In the past, l heard two ladssaying they bought a Griffin jacket, but in fact itwas a Converse by Griffin. So l need to protect ourstockists. Also, Baracuta is a great brand anddoesn’t need dual branding.—TB: does designing for other brands raise theprofile of your own name, and therefore youreponymous jeff Griffin collection?JG: l love to collaborate, and always have done.Collaborations should always be a “win, win” ifthey offer something new, and yes all news is goodnews, so they help the profile. However, we arenot media whores, and love to fly under the radar.—TB: How much do you enjoy working with otherbrands that have genuine heritage? JG: lt’s not just that I love working with heritage

brands. The important point is working with a labelthat has something to say, or somethinginteresting in its archive. This is when the ideasstart. l hate fake, and l hate when somethingdoesn’t have a point of view, but maybe that’s whythey employ us. —TB: does it disappoint you that so many iconicBritish brands have ended up in foreignownership?JG: Of course it does, but who’s fault is it? Themanufacturers in Britain were told to give up forthe last 20 years by the government, andeveryone was obsessed with cheap imports. My car is a Land Rover, bought and sold to theGermans, the Americans and now to India. ButRover stayed in British hands and was killed. It wasa massive blow to lose all that heritage andmanufacturing. But, from working with Baracutain Italy, it wanted to manufacture in England, andhas actually increased the production here. It’s stilllike living in the past here, though. If you visitedmy factory in Italy it’s super clean and high techdue to the support of the government. Thefactories here don’t have the investment. Theyhave cracked windows, and sit on back streetswith steam bellowing out, and old cuttingmachinery. So why is Baracuta increasing itsproduction in the UK, you might ask? Because thecustomer abroad is looking to buy a “part” ofBritain, and demands it’s Made in England. —TB: Are you still fascinated by military designsand camouflage? JG: Yes, indeed I am, and l’m excited about thework we’re doing on thatfront for Baracuta. We areworking with a greatsupplier to the British Army,and we are using a SpecialForces fabric that has a newquality. Before, it wasGoretex, but this is a three-layer British Army fabric, and it’s the first time it’s been used in non-combatclothing. We’ve done a G9

and G10 trench coat. What l love about military isits non-fussy design, innovation, the stories, thehistory, the fact when you see a group of men inuniform it looks so much better than when theyare in “casuals”. It’s also an excuse to go and lookat heavy machinery. Everyone needs an escape. —TB: where does the Blue label sit at retail?JG: Blue Label is at the top of the brand’s pricepoint, as there is a lot of quality in fabric andmanufacturing. It’s very exclusive. For the first twoseasons it was designed by Kenichi “Kenny”Kusano, the former creative director of Japaneseinstitution Beams Plus. And now this is season twofrom us. It’s a tool for ideas for the future, andobviously marketing for the brand. It’s available inthe best stores internationally, like Isetan in Tokyo.The G9 has never been expensive and l love thefact it’s for everyone, such as Dr Martens andClarks. They are classics, icons and cater foreveryone. The Blue Label raises the bar and addsa fresh design perspective.—TB: How important is it to give classic and iconicdesigns a new twist or direction?JG: It’s the same as with the Mini or Land RoverDefender. We all love and remember the originalMini Cooper and the Series 1 Land Rover, but weneed to move forward, too. —TB: would you still say that your designs for the Blue label are still uniquely British in lookand feel?JG: Well, l think so, as l’m British and live andbreathe it. If someone in China thinks that it

doesn’t look British enough,then maybe it’s because theywant a more “Disney”version of British. As oneChinese director who nowowns three stores on SavileRow said to me, “In Chinathey only know the Queenand Big Ben.” Are mydesigns British? Well, thereisn’t a Big Ben on anything,or the Queen in the lining!

“l�love�to�collaborate,and�always�havedone.�Collaborationsshould�always�be�a‘win,�win’�if�they�offersomething�new,�andyes�all�news�is�goodnews,�so�they�help�the�profile”

THE HEART oF THE uk’SmENSwEAR INduSTRy

As moda Gent gets set to return to the NEc Birmingham on 10-12 August, mwB runs through theproducts, collections and featuresnot to be missed this season.—

The beating heart of men’s lifestyle andcontemporary fashion for the last 25 seasons,moda Gent welcomes an ever-more diversifyingpick of product this August.

With key lifestyle offers to a strongcontingent of denim brands and accessorieslabels, not to mention the growing footwear offer both in Select and neighbouring ModaFootwear, Moda cements its place on the UKfashion trade scene.

Moda Gent has witnessed many atransformation in design, fit and product over theseasons and the latest revolution comes from oneof the show’s leading names meyer-Hosen as itsnew MMX trouser range takes the label in a newfashion direction with its skinny fit translating theflair and range of its core collection to a newtarget market.

Also having witnessed a style evolution inrecent times, denim brand kam jeanswear willoffer a series of styles across a wide range of sizesand fits.

In Select, the edited area for urban andcontemporary lines, the jeanswear theme remainsstrong, with labels including casual Friday andGarcia sitting alongside Select favourites such

as Björn Borg, while Bertoni also moves into the area.

Select’s footwear offer welcomes back keynames including Superga, and T.u.k. Elsewherein men’s footwear, British manufacturing reignssupreme, with john white and Barker returningwith their latest home-grown collectionsalongside summer casuals from boat-shoe brandschatham marine and Paolo vandini as well asbeachwear labels Ipanema and Reef. Causalstyles are also evident in the wider men’s appareloffer, with the likes of jockey, Hattric,Boomerang and jupiter’s latest collectionsheading up the offer from beach to city styles.

Well-known as a sourcing ground for bothmen’s apparel and accessories, Moda Gent willhost the leading sock brands on the market, withbrands including calvin klein, corgi, Hj Socksand Falke among the strong add-on product

available at this season’s event.Elsewhere, cudworth collection joins the

line-up with its range of industrial and militaryinspired men’s jewellery and accessories. Thelabel’s styling includes textured surfaces andmixes stainless steel, with black, gold and bluefeature elements across its range, whichencompasses everything from sophisticated cuff links to dog tags, constructed beads andleather bracelets.

discover the ever-growing exhibitor list forthis season’s show at moda-uk.co.uk and startplanning the brands you want to see.

BOOMERANG

MEYER-HOSEN

E-ZONE LIVE LINE-UP GROWS

With the likes of Esperus, Top To Toe, 360Resourcing and Retail Technology among thegrowing line-up for the launch of E-Zone Livethis Moda, the area is shaping up to be a mustvisit for anyone looking to enhance their offerwith the latest news and tools for e-commerceand retail technology.

E-Zone Live is a unique opportunity tospeak to the teams behind the technologydirectly and discover what would work bestfor you and your retail offer. Whether you area bricks-and-mortar store or looking todevelop your online transactional website,don’t miss critical seminars set to update youon the latest technologies and services toenhance your in-store and online offer.

—

JULY 2014 | PROMOTION | 23

EAT, DRINK AND SOCIALISE

The Moda team welcomes all visitors andexhibitors to join them for a drink on theSunday night of the event to toast asuccessful first day of business. A showtradition, the drinks, which will take placeoutside the NEC following the show’s close at6pm, are a great chance to socialise andcatch-up with your peers.

Monday night offers another opportunityto mix and network with a barbecue party atthe Beeches Bar & Grill located a five-minutedrive from the NEC complex. This moreintimate affair is a ticketed event and willoffer food, drink and live DJ sets in a relaxedenvironment. If you would like to book tickets to the Beeches party [email protected] or call +44 (0)1484 846069.

—

#MODAGENT25

Make your own Moda Gent memories thisseason with the Instagram photo booth on themenswear plaza in Hall 20. Snap and shareand look out for your photo in the Moda Gentrogues gallery by searching #ModaGent25.The Moda team will also be sharing itsmemories, pictures and reflections on thepast 25 seasons and invites you for acomplimentary drink on the plaza from 5pmto 6pm on the Sunday. Share in the nostalgiaand email [email protected] withyour Moda Gent memories.

—

ESSENTIAL BUSINESS INSIGHTS

Ever wondered how to write the perfectproduct description for your online offer?Maximise your profit through stock controlstrategies? Or how to get creative andgenerate new ideas in less than 3o minutes?Then look no further as Moda’scomprehensive seminar programme returnswith expert business advice tailored toindependent retailers. From leaders in theirfield such as fashion writer and broadcasterJon Tromans, Kate Hills of Make It British, theFashion Association of Britain and Tony Scottof Retail Spa among this season’s speakers, besure to set time aside to listen in and gleaninformation and practical advice that couldhelp you to build on your business.

—

Register for your free ticket today at moda-uk.co.uk

FASHIoNINSPIRATIoNEnjoy catwalk trends daily with

dedicated shows for the hottest new

looks in urban & contemporary,

lifestyle & tailoring and footwear &

accessories fashion live at the

Hall 20 catwalk theatre.

JOCKEY

PAOLO VANDINI

CHATHAM MARINE

JOIN THE COMMUNITY

Moda’s exclusive planning tool for yourseason is now live. Once you have registeredto attend the event you will receive yourunique log-in details. From here you canexplore and make contacts with all the brandsyou want to see, visitors you want to meet,schedule the seminars you’d like to listen in onand discover the discounts, competitions andoffers available exclusively to you as a Moda visitor this season. Log-in at moda-uk.co.uk/community.

—

CRÉATION GROSS GMBH & CO. KG // HOUBIRGSTRASSE 7 // 91217 HERSBRUCK // PHONE +44 (0) 7951 55 08 90

E-MAIL: [email protected] // CARLGROSS.COM

PANORAMA CPD FASHION WEEK DÜSSELDORF HOT I CPM MOSKAU HOT II FASHION PREMIÈRE CIFF COPENHAGEN

C H H F C

WWW.mWB-onLIne.co.uk JULY 2014 | GENT | CONTENTS | 25

Spring/summer 2015 sees British menswear label Universal Works combine inspirations from 19th-centurytoiles, 50s silhouettes and 80s rave and sportswear. By mixing ideas and influences, the brand presents oneof its strongest summer collections to date. Creating a blend of contemporary and functional, with the easeof sportswear, deconstructed suiting and blue-collar durability, buyers can expect to find chambray in tailoring,fine cord in surfer styles and workwear in luxe fabrics. Considered detailing and playful prints add interest tothe collection and, with a successful showing at both London Collections: Men and Pitti Uomo in Florence, itis clear to see Universal Works is set to continue going from strength to strength.

—

G E N T

THe FuLLWoRkS

26 Product newsRounding up the key stories this month

28 In-season stockSummer lovin’

30 Turning 50 with a smileProfiling menswear independent John Douglas

32 Show review: Pitti uomoSix of the stand-out labels at last month’s show

www.mwB-oNlINE.co.uk JULY 2014 | GENT | PRODUCT | 26

RAdARSpotlighting style.

PRoducT NEwSInside menswear.

ESTABLISHED: 2012—SIGNATURE STYLE: Minimalism, geometric shapes and high-qualitymaterials are synonymous with Oppermann.—HISTORY: Founded by two young Swedish brothers, Mattis and NiklasOppermann, the brand is a mix of Scandinavian simplicity and EastLondon style.

The brainchild of design brothers duo Mattis and Niklas Oppermann,the eponymous accessory label is entering its fourth season and countsthe likes of Beymen in Turkey, Boon the Shop in Korea and C’H’C’M inNew York as stockists.

A blend of Swedish minimalism and British individuality, the brandpresents a concise collection of men’s leather goods for the new seasonwith a focus on simplicity, geometric shapes and premium finishes.

The Oppermann story started when both brothers came to Londonto study – Mattis for a degree in design and innovation and Niklas adegree in business studies.

“We are both equally involved in the design process, but our skillsare complementary,” says Niklas. “Mattis focuses on the materials andconstruction, while I concentrate on commercial viability of the designs.”

The 30-strong collection ranges from £35 to £369 RRP, with recentsuccess including a collaboration with The British Film Institute, withOppermann honoured as an official sponsor. Pieces from the collectionwere given to the jury members including Jim Broadbent, Tom Kingsleyand Cillian Murphy. www.oppermann-london.com

OPPERMANN

SWIMMING ALONG NICELY

Water-friendly footwear label Swims enters its first season as a complete wardrobe brand, offering a total look of shoes, swim shorts, piques, windbreakers, jackets and accessories. It isclear to see through each design that the brand’s DNA has notonce been compromised, and while Swims can now be found inover 30 countries in more than 700 stores across the globe, theUK market is still a strong focus for s/s 15.

In terms of the label’s core product, its footwear offer, theLuca Sneaker returns in a range of new colours and also a glow-in-the-dark version.

The swim shorts collection, meanwhile, sees the addition of four new prints, and the collection’s new reversible blousonfeatures the brand’s signature Swims orange interior lining.

—

TAILORED APPROACH

For s/s 15, menswear designer Alan Taylor continues hisexperimental dialogue of mergingfashion, indie subculture and visualart to create a quirky collection ofwardrobe additions.

While wool remains Taylor’smost prominent fabric, the summerseason sees the use of lightweightopen-weave wool teamed with hand-manipulated textured organzaand hand printed cotton shirting.

Having shown for two seasonsas part of Fashion East’s Mancatwalk, last month’s LondonCollections: Men was the first solopresentation for the designer,following his selection as part of theBright Young Things showcase atSelfridges in 2013.

—

WWW.mWB-onLIne.co.uk JULY 2014 | GENT | PRODUCT | 27

ON TREND

“We began by exploring a substantial body of work from Hardy’s interiordesign collection, specifically focusing on the prints of Hardy’s own rangefrom the 70s and the influence of interior designer William Haines,” saysmehmet Ali, design director, on the start point for the Hardy Amies s/s 15collection. “This formed the beginnings of the story and provided aninteresting colour palette to work with.”

The colour palette comprises pistachio green, seen on the collection’sfour-pocket utility mac, a double-breasted jacket in chambray blue, light coralconcealed button-down garment-dye poplin shirts and bold splashes ofyellow, spotted across accessories, knitwear and outerwear.

Highlights of the range include the Yarmouth sailing coat, made in Italywith bonded cotton and a brushed cotton cord collar. Other standout piecesare printed grid-patterned swimwear, luxury espadrilles and canvas doublemonks; the latter of which are a continued collaboration between the brandand footwear label Grenson. www.hardyamies.com

BRAnD To WATcH

ESTABLISHED: 1946—SIGNATURE STYLE: Designed for the quintessentialEnglish gent, Hardy Amies is slickand sophisticated, with the double-breasted blazer standing asthe brand’s signature piece. —HISTORY:Founded by Sir Edwin Hardy Amies,the label started life on Savile Row,catering for both menswear andwomenswear, including dressingQueen Elizabeth II for her SilverJubilee portrait in 1977.

1 2

3 4

5

1: ATELIER SCOTCHprice on request 020 3137 3901

2: BEN SHERMAN£20 020 7812 5300

3: SIMON CARTER£11 020 8683 4475

4: MARWOOD£44 07973 429177

5: RORY HUTTONPrice on request 07933 032973

Seasonal extras: Finishing touches

HARDY AMIES

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

SWEDISH EXPORT

Didriksons, Sweden’s leading stylish and functionaloutdoor clothing brand, returns for s/s 15 with its 1913 Originals collection, inspired by the label’s 100-year heritage.

Dubbed as “the first choice for the discerning,contemporary male”, the latest range – which will beshowcased at this month’s Jacket Required trade show– features limited-edition garments that fuse highfashion and function.

—

WWW.mWB-onLIne.co.uk JULY 2014 | GENT | PRODUCT | 28

SummeR LoVIn’moving further into high summer, beach basics and relaxed dressing are

at the forefront of customers’ wardrobe wish lists this month. Prints dominate, with 70s graphics sitting next to tropical florals and

signature nautical stripes. —


TRIWA 48 020 737 79083 HENRI LLOYD £40 0161 799 1212 ANTHONY MILES £37.90 0116 238 7090

EDWIN £40 07415 506272 MARWOOD £25 020 7729 5696 PERCIVAL PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7734 4533

REALM & EMPIRE £18 07446 110138

SWIMS £42 0161 222 8048 GUIDE £13 020 748 1111 BEN SHERMAN £19.20 020 7812 5300

For wholesale enquiries, please contact Anna or Ward at Double H AgencyAnna - [email protected] / +44 (0)203 432 6387Ward - [email protected] / +44 (0)7810 872 320

www.uk.eden-park.comFacebook/EdenParkUK

For wholesale enquiries, please contact Anna or Ward at Double H AgencyAnna - [email protected] / +44 (0)203 432 6387Ward - [email protected] / +44 (0)7810 872 320

www.uk.eden-park.comFacebook/EdenParkUK


WWW.mWB-onLIne.co.uk JULY 2014 | GENT | PROFILE | 30

TuRnInG 50 WITHA SmILe

John Douglas in macclesfield celebrates its 50th anniversary this year. It’s been a varied journey, but notably one full of enjoyment for the business, as Tom Bottomley discovers

from owner David Johnson.—

When the original John Douglas shop opened itsdoors in 1964, it occupied a much smaller unitthan it does today. The business, which is stilllocated on Chestergate in Macclesfield, wasstarted by David Johnson’s father, John DouglasJohnson, and older brother Richard. It wasfinanced by the sale of a plot of garden for themiserly sum of about £3,000. The brands werevery classic menswear at that time, such as Magee,Bladen and Chester Barrie.

Reminiscing over the 50 years, David andbrother Richard recently counted up to 160different brands and manufacturers they’ve dealtwith during that time. Out of that list there’sprobably only about 20% that have survived.“Magee is one brand that has actually come thefull journey with us,” says Johnson. “Though wedon’t do a lot of business with them now becausethe business has moved on. We moved away frombeing very classic menswear, where the clientbase would buy to replace something that hadworn out. We can now boast a business that canoffer something for lads, dads and granddads.There’s no age on style in John Douglas.”

The hire business has also been an importantmainstay of the shop, though Johnson admits that side has slackened off somewhat in recentyears, as more people seem to get marriedabroad, and are more likely to buy a modern cutsuit these days. Gibson London does well for themon that front.

Johnson reckons much of the store’s success,as well as good banter on the shop-floor, is downto buying the right fits for different shapes – andbuying the size scales accordingly. Something thatonly comes with experience, and a knowledge ofyour local market.

One great story from the shop-floorconcerns an old boy, and regular customer of JohnDouglas over the years, who’d never owned a pairof jeans in his life. That is, until one day when hecame into the shop and asked David Johnson tofind him a suitable pair. “Not even in his 20s or 30sdid this guy wear jeans,” offers Johnson. “Then, atthe age of 78, he came in one Christmas and said,‘I want a pair of jeans.’” Not on your averagebucket list, that’s for sure. “I sorted him out with a classic fit pair of Camel Active jeans in a darkwash, a nice pair of brogues, shirt and slim-fittingTweed jacket – he’d looked after himself. I said tohim, ‘Don’t think of this as a Tweed jacket as such,though, think of it more as a coat. So we turnedthe collar up, tied a sharp scarf around his neck,and he looked a million dollars. He said, ‘You knowwhat, I don’t feel 10 years’ younger, I feel 20 years’younger.’ And with that he asked me to bin theclothes he’d walked in wearing, and he went outwearing his new kit with a fresh spring in his step,jeans et al. That sums up that there’s no age onstyle, and that’s a classic John Douglas story.”

In 1974, ten years after he’d founded thebusiness, David and Richard’s father John passed

away – at the age of 53, from cancer. “The shophad moved to our current premises by then,”explains Johnson. “And I came into the businessas a very naïve 17 year old – not knowing muchabout it at all. My brother is 11 years my senior. Atthe time I was needed to make the numbers upreally. And I’ve been here ever since.”

Johnson says they’ve ridden through threerecessions, and always strived to keep expandingthe business. It sounds very much like acontinuous refurbishment programme. The shopnow consists of eight different rooms over twodifferent premises – knocked through. It’s like alittle department store. Each room is themed, andcreates its own atmosphere. There’s a suit area on the first floor, a jacket area with smart “goingout” shirts, a denim area and a basement full ofouterwear – dominated by Barbour product. “Andrecently we’ve noted a gap on the high street forfootwear, so we’ve just refurbished the front roomto give our footwear offer more of a focus,” hesays. “We stock Loake’s Design range, and we can’tbelieve how well that’s taken off. It’s taken ourfootwear to another level. It’s a little bit youngerand more ‘fashion’. We’re now selling 20% morefootwear already, that’s just in the first half of the year.”

Part of the John Douglas building is 16thCentury, which Johnson admits has presentedsome problems when it comes to pre-conceivedideas of what type of product they sell. “It’s more

of a problem with image in terms of ‘old world’ and being old fashioned, which we’re definitelynot. It’s a battle we’ve fought ever since we’vebeen here. So we work hard on the windows tomake them really stand out. They express a muchmore modern angle on the merchandise we sell.”

Although Richard is still involved in thebusiness and works on the shop floor, David is verymuch the driving force of the business, and sayshe has been really for the past 20 years or so.“Richard has been quite happy for me to drive the business forward with my passion andenthusiasm,” he says. “And he has his own clientbase. As a family business, it’s very much aboutpeople and building relationships. Humour on the shop floor is also key. It’s about making fashion fun.”

Aside from his brother, David Johnson sayshis right-hand man in the business is Keith Patient,who’s been working for them for some 25 years.“He’s very passionate about what he does andvery much reads from the same page as I do. He’sin here every morning at 8am, even when there’snothing urgent to do. That’s just the way he is. Heknows a lot of people in Macclesfield. In fact, inmany ways, Keith is Mister Macclesfield.”

In terms of competition on menswear,Johnson says that mainly comes from other areassuch as Wilmslow and Manchester. “Macclesfield,like any small town, is suffering,” he says. “But,where we’re positioned on Chestergate, it’s pretty

much surrounded by family-owned businesses. As onecloses, another one opens,but there are a few that havestood the test of time.Chestergate is a little nichearea within Macclesfieldreally. I wouldn’t call itaffluent, but it’s medium tobetter ground. It’s not in the same kind of league asthe likes of Wilmslow,Prestbury or Knutsford. ButMacclesfield does have theheritage of being a silk town.”

It’s also famous forHovis bread. One of the bigoriginal Hovis mills wasestablished there. And John Douglas has just wona silver medal for a Hovis inspired window, withold bread tins, Grenson brogue boots, waistcoatsand flat caps. “It’s to do with a local summerfestival and it’s totally out of season,” Johnsonoffers. “But it’s got us noticed. We have fourwindows, so there’s never time to stand still in thisshop. And, with the shop being split over threefloors, as well as a basement, it’s a full time keepfit class on a busy day in here.”

When another menswear independent did try to move in on their patch, with a shopliterally 100 yards up the road, they initially

only thought of it as healthycompetition – despite theother shop selling around 6-8 brands which werealready available in JohnDouglas. “However, thestubborn retailer in questiondecided his A-board neededto be outside the wrongshop,” explains Johnson. “Sohe placed it outside ourshop – advertising thebrands that we were selling.We walked the board downto his shop, and said we’dappreciate it if he kept itoutside his own shop, ratherthan ours.”

But, two days later, the same A-boardappeared outside John Douglas again. “It was the beginning of the A-board wars! Short ofjumping up and down on it like Basil Fawlty, which I was restrained from doing, it later gotresolved by the town planning lady. It could haveescalated into something, but thankfullydiplomacy won in the end.” The retailer inquestion only lasted on Chestergate for a coupleof years, before no doubt trying his A-board trick elsewhere. John Douglas, however, nowcelebrates 50 years, and David Johnson does itwith a smile.

“We�stock�Loake’s�Design�range,�and�wecan’t�believe�how�wellthat’s�taken�off.�It’s�takenour�footwear�to�anotherlevel.�It’s�a�little�bityounger�and�more‘fashion’.�We’re�nowselling�20%�morefootwear�already,�that’sjust�in�the�first�half�ofthe�year”

DAVID JOHNSON

www.mwB-oNlINE.co.uk JULY 2014 | GENT | REVIEW | 32

The 86th edition of Pitti, which coincided with the 60th anniversary of the centro di Firenze per lamoda Italiana and a whole host of events celebrating Firenze Hometown of Fashion, didn’t disappoint.

There was a genuine buzz about the event, and it seemed back to its busy best, with some excellentcollections on show. Tom Bottomley takes his pick of the highlights.

—

PITTI uomo

BIG UNCLE

Only in its third season, this fresh brand from Milan ticked allthe right boxes in terms of looks, styling and story. Influencedby 60s and 70s California, the name stems from how a kid wasinfluenced by his stylish uncle’s dress sense growing up, asopposed to his own father’s. There’ll be a few people who canrelate to that. There were some wearable pieces in greatfabrics, featuring unstructured jackets, striped shirts andlightweight waistcoats, as well as some dapper cotton and linenmix trousers made on a 60s Japanese piece of machinery. All inall it had a certain quirkiness to it that gave it an edge fromother brands in the Touch! area.—

CLOSED

Closed is a big brand perhaps forgotten about on these shores,with a contemporary s/s 15 collection that featured plenty ofstrong pieces. Aloha prints, an indigo story, great sweats,outerwear and, of course, denim. There was even a new, albeitsmall, capsule collaboration with on-the-button Japanese labelRiding High. Closed doesn’t currently have anyone selling for itin the UK, but is selling directly out of Paris and Milan. It’s alabel that’s been around since 1978 – which may surprise a fewpeople. Founded in Italy, now based in Hamburg (where thecurrent owners, who bought the brand in 1992, live). There areno live UK accounts at the minute and, for this reason, it’s gotto be worth a look with fresh eyes when a point of difference isbecoming increasingly valuable. Prices sit around the A.P.C.and Acne mark.—

SPELLBOUND BY SIMPLICITY

Showing at Pitti for the fourth time, though apparently aroundsince 1981, Spellbound from Japan was another label with theright credentials – distributed in the UK by Brick Lane denimspecialist retailer Son of a Stag. Jeans retail for between €250and €350, so it ain’t cheap, but then nor does it look it. Asidefrom very good selvedge denim and chinos, there waslightweight chambray and garment-dyed work-style shirtingand hibiscus-print indigo jackets and shorts that ticked all theright boxes. An unstructured three-button polka-dot jacket alsohit the mark. It may not leave you Spellbound, but it’s mightyfine kit, all the same.—

WWW.mWB-onLIne.co.uk JULY 2014 | GENT | REVIEW | 33

VOTOLE

Another one to throw up something a bit stand out in theTouch! area, Votole – again from Japan – is just one year old. Adebutant at Pitti for this show, a three-piece check suit – withshorts not trousers – would certainly get you noticed, but isprobably best broken up. There were some tasty washedshirting, beautifully cut trousers with small turn-ups, and linenwaistcoats. It was smart, lightweight and colourful, indeed “very Pitti”, but there were also easy pieces such as a super-lightweight hooded field jacket. Even the hibiscus printscarves could liven up a dowdy look. It’s one to watch, and it willbe interesting to see how the brand takes things forautumn/winter 2015.—

IST PAT-RN

Post Pitti, this is now to be handled in the UK for the first timeby agency Index London. Ist Pat-Rn is easy on the eye, and it’seasy to see the appeal. Now in its fifth season, there are onlytwo factories in Italy that produce the Cavalry di Maglia fabricthat defines the soft tailoring of the jackets. It’s a garment-dyedcotton twill, effectively, with a fairly unique look and touch. Avery tight collection, featuring military and workwear detailing,key pieces include the double-breasted six-button blazer, andsingle-breasted version three gold brass buttons. There’s aheavy cotton grandad-style top, and a wearable shawl collarwork jacket in a French blue. Simple, wide-cut, indigo fabricwork pants are also of note. Inspired by vintage, but executedfor a modern audience.—

HARTFORD

What can one say? This brand just gets stronger. The collectiongrows, the Pitti stand grows (this time with an additionaloutdoor area for the swimwear alone), but the quality and styleremain eye-catching and intact. It’s one of those collections youjust want to dive well into and kit yourself out in for the season.The most prominent of the themes for s/s 15 is the West Coast 60s California vibe, with “surf” artwork on tees,pastel-hued chinos and shorts, Aloha prints and floral motifs.There was a major focus on shirts and shorts, and some coolouterwear pieces. There was also a nod to East Coast stylingwith preppy looks, slim button-down shirts and three-buttonblazers in ultra-light cotton piqué. A true Pitti highlight.—

WWW.mWB-onLIne.co.uk JULY 2014 | COLLECTION NEWS | 36

mWB brings you the news, developments and innovations from some of the key names in mainstreammenswear this spring/summer 2015 season, with the introduction of new fabrics, colourways and a

more trend-led approach to many collections. —

coLLecTIonneWS

ARROW

Now featuring a fully comprehensive collection of wardrobestaples, Arrow offers shirting as well as co-ordinating poloshirts, denim, trousers and jackets for s/s 15. In terms of thebrand’s core shirt range, newness is transitioned from slim-fit toa fitted version, placing emphasis on the balance betweencollar and waist measurement. —

JOHN SMEDLEY

Staying true to the nauticaltheme this season, British labelJohn Smedley offers a series ofkey styles in Breton stripes,updated via a palette inspiredby seaside horizons. Newtextures are also a feature,taking inspiration from boththe rough and smoothlandscapes found at sea. Anew micro-textured finish isintroduced across both fineand chunky gauge styles,adding a modern twist to thefisherman sweater. ModernFair Isle knits, meanwhile,feature a microwave pattern,incorporated with key grandadcollar designs. —

SOXKS

Founded last year by design duo Matt Bowden and Arthur Burnand,eclectic sock label Soxks is entering the UK market under thedirection of Michael Spriggs Agency. Designed to “bring creativeenergy and a philosophical approach to the world of hosiery”, thedebut line from the fledging label is a colour-filled range of quirkydesigns featuring hand-stitched toes and embroidered logos. —

BRUHL

Following on from a successful a/w 14 season, with an overallincrease of 18 per cent, trouserspecialist Bruhl returns with aseries of new fabrics andcolourways. New details andmodern linings are used ininterpretations of classic linesfrom the brand’s 90-year history.Styles ranges from scoop and 5-pocket jeans, classic chinosthrough to slimmer fits withnarrower bottoms. Fabrics,meanwhile, include a new trend-driven two-tone canvas,offered in muted neutral tones ofkhaki and sand, while the jeanscollection introduces a new coated denim for the more fashion-focused shopper. —

WWW.mWB-onLIne.co.uk JULY 2014 | COLLECTION NEWS | 37

ETERNA

Smart, distinctive, architectural-inspired minimal prints set thetone of Eterna’s s/s 15 collection. Prints are featured on robustfabrics and stretch materials, while newness comes in the formof a stretch fabric with a non-iron quality. Furthermore, thebrand is expanding its Design Line with the introduction of newdobby weave patterns, brocades and textured weaves – eitheras an over-dye or as a chambray. The key look in Eterna’s s/s 15offering is its white shirt range, including fancy adornments andrich-in-contrast collar versions. —

PRETTY GREEN

Celebrating five years since its inception, Britishlabel Pretty Green presented its mostcomprehensive – and varied – range to date at lastmonth’s London Collections: Men. Taking place atthe famous Gibson Brand studio, the collection –dubbed The Production – featured a series oflimited-edition pieces including directional tailoring,fine gauge knits and optical print shirts. —

BRAX

Now managed by NP Agency in the UK market,complete with a new showroom on Regent Street,German label Brax returns this summer with acollection inspired by Barcelona. A highlight of thenew offering includes the use of Peruvian Pimacotton, and the ultra-soft pique structure developedfrom it exclusively for Brax. —

MMX

The premium line at popular German trouser label Meyer, MMXcontinues to go from strength to strength with its comprehensivecollection of high-end designs. Featuring luxe silk, combined withcotton and fleece wool, the materials used come from some of thebest weavers in Europe. Using innovative material combinations,the s/s 15 line provides summer variants of popular classics, madefrom airy lightweight linen and super-stretch Pima cotton, adjustingto the body’s temperature and ensuring a comfortable fit.—



cInque

BRA

x

BuG

ATTI

mAc

ARR

oW

WWW.mWB-onLIne.co.uk JULY 2014 | BRAND GUIDE | TRENDS | 40

TRenDS oF SummeRFor its first in-depth look at spring/summer 2015, mWB highlights five of the key emerging trends forthe season ahead, ranging from sports-inspired businesswear through to a more premium take onsignature casual wardrobe staples. —

JULY 2014 | BRAND GUIDE | TRENDS | 41

city active

The growing trend for a more active lifestyle – including cycling and running in day-to-day life – has driven the need forgarments that incorporate elements to allow movement, breathability and comfort. Buyers can expect a trendcharacterised by sweatshirts, jogging bottoms, bomber-style jackets, stretch cotton tees and accessories such asbackpacks. Jogging and sport styles featuring draw cords and cuffs at the hem dominate the season for trouser specialistMAC, for example, which also sees the introduction of so-called Fitness Denim – utilising 25 per cent increased elasticity,adjusting to every movement while still looking authentic. The Sweat Denim, meanwhile, is available in a range of washesand is dyed exactly like denim, while detailing such as reflective strips are discreetly sewn onto the back pockets.Innovations are key to the trend, with the likes of Bugatti and Calamar applying the use of Airseries® and Gore-Tex®

respectively. Airseries®, for example, isused to decrease the weight of items,perfect for travelling, while welded seamsin mesh laminate, subtle pocket solutionsand a super-light exterior layer arecreated with the use of Gore-Tex®.Layering is central to this trend, although clean silhouettes and a subduedcolour palette keep this look summer appropriate.—

calamar

bruhl

camel active

casual friday

army luxe

Although not a too distant memoryfrom last season, camouflage printsand cargo trousers return for s/s 15with a more grown-up take on safari.Stripped back and pared downvisually, this trend is clean, low-key andfocuses on the finer detail. Lifestylelabel Camel Active captures the trendperfectly with its Vintage Travel Routecollection, featuring camouflage-inspired patterns on course-grained canvas blazers, while Digel presents anouterwear highlight – the washed field jacket with waxed cotton and contrasting coloured zips and patchpockets with garment dye. Of course, outerwear continues to be key at the likes of mod label Merc, with alightweight parka on offer, while shirt specialist Olymp introduces a series of cold-dye casual T-shirts in botanicshades of green, from greyed-out olive nuances through to apple tones. —

www.mwb-online.co.uk JULY 2014 | BRAND GUIDE | TRENDS | 42

camel active bugatti

olymp

merc

dig

el



skopes

olympjo

ule

s

fyn

ch

hat

ton

atel

ier

ga

rdeu

r

ocean clubocean club

Moving forward from the familiar nautical trend this season, influence isMoving forward from the familiar nautical trend this season, influence isdrawn from the likes of the Italian Riviera and the South of France – expectdrawn from the likes of the Italian Riviera and the South of France – expectpremium finishes and high-quality fabrics. Of course, the core of the trend,premium finishes and high-quality fabrics. Of course, the core of the trend,the red, white and blue colour palette, is still paramount, except with tonesthe red, white and blue colour palette, is still paramount, except with tonessofter, almost vintage in finish. British label Joules executes this themesofter, almost vintage in finish. British label Joules executes this themeperfectly, with a series of coastal classics and a combination of stripes andperfectly, with a series of coastal classics and a combination of stripes andprints with bursts of green and purple to add interest, while the brand’s newprints with bursts of green and purple to add interest, while the brand’s newRight as Rain collection of waterproof jackets are key for the UK market.Right as Rain collection of waterproof jackets are key for the UK market.Outerwear label Jupiter, meanwhile, features shimmering ripstop fabrics onOuterwear label Jupiter, meanwhile, features shimmering ripstop fabrics onthe maritime segment of its s/s 15 collection, which comprises sportive blousons through to long-linethe maritime segment of its s/s 15 collection, which comprises sportive blousons through to long-linejackets, while menswear label Skopes continues its return to a smarter style of dressing, even with morejackets, while menswear label Skopes continues its return to a smarter style of dressing, even with morecasual pieces such as its stone windcheater, featuring navy and red lining and piping. Lightweight fabricscasual pieces such as its stone windcheater, featuring navy and red lining and piping. Lightweight fabricsare key to this trend, with cotton crepe spotted throughout the likes of Roy Robson, which featuresare key to this trend, with cotton crepe spotted throughout the likes of Roy Robson, which featuressophisticated fine top dyed horizontal stripes in a contrasting colour. The luxe maritime theme, meanwhile,sophisticated fine top dyed horizontal stripes in a contrasting colour. The luxe maritime theme, meanwhile,continues through shirting at German label Olymp, with various blue and aquatic nuances sitting next tocontinues through shirting at German label Olymp, with various blue and aquatic nuances sitting next tobeige and strawberry accents – three key shades for the season. beige and strawberry accents – three key shades for the season. —

JULY 2014 | BRAND GUIDE | TRENDS | 45

jupiter

casa moda

roy robson

cin

qu

e


arrow

uno

eterna

olymp

dig

el

hint of pink

Pastel tones, primarily pink shades, are prevalent throughout shirting this season, with newnesscoming in the form of refined collar shapes and pared-down detailing. Washed qualities arehighlighted, with cotton and linen shirts at Olymp, for example, offering a summery lightness with faded yarns for a vintage worn finish. While plain colours are partially bleached, to create arelaxed “used” look, prints are also key to this trend, with brands such as Uno, a fashion-ledsegment of the Seidensticker collection, presenting the popular Ikat motif, used repeatedly allover shirting. Eterna, meanwhile, takes a more classic option while still retaining the use of pink in

its Miami-inspired checked non-iron shirtmodel. Contrasting adornments oncollars and cuffs take a back seat, withemphasis placed on piping on button tabsand ribbon banding in collar insides. Thistrend lets the colour do the talking. —

CONTACT AND SALES HEADOFFICE GERMANYVENTI, GUTENBERGSTRASSE 7, 26135 OLDENBURG, FON 0049 (0) 441 20660, WWW.VENTI.COM

SCOTTLAND: NORMAN JAMES, MOBILE +44 178 6880338, [email protected] ENGLAND: Alan Chapman, FON +44 1322403552, [email protected]

MANCHESTER AREA: JOHN WILKINSON, FON +44 7831307693, [email protected]

casual fridays

Although there is a significant return tosmarter dressing across the menswearsector, there is a still a need for casualtailoring. For example, a new extensiverange of unlined blazer styles made fromjersey have been added to Roy Robson’ss/s 15 collection, with double-faced fabricswith a print on the reverse key to thisstyle. Buyers can also expect to seemodified blazer models with roundershoulders, softer armholes and thereforeless interfacing and lining. Jerseys remain a central theme throughout the Cinque collection, meanwhile,with modern minimal designs alongside stretch cotton products in washed structures. Another label toincorporate jersey is Bugatti, where highlights include a 250 gm/mm jersey pique and jersey in a meshlook, where the comfort factor is reinforced by Flexity linings. Although single-breasted styles such as therelaxed denim model at CG Club of Gents dominate the trend, double-breasted blazers in linen cottoncan be spotted across the board but still remain wearable for less formal occasions.—


roy

ro

bso

n

cin

qu

e

cg club of gents

bugatti benvenuto black label


www.mwb-online.co.uk JULY 2014 | BRAND GUIDE | RETAIL ROUND-UP | 50

PHILIP BROWNE,OWNER, PHILIP BROWNE, NORWICH

you always go to pitti, so why weren’t you there this time around?It’s the first time I’ve not been to Pitti for about a decade. But Iwanted a break; to take stock and not let the creative juices beinfluenced by anything. I’ve booked my Pitti trip for January already;I did that two months ago. Autumn/winter is so much stronger. That’sone of the other reasons I wasn’t there for the summer show; whatis the spring/summer season now? What do people buy in February,March and April? Not very much is the answer. It’s become quite aworthless season, to be honest, and for that reason I’m cutting myspend back and putting more into autumn/winter.

do you think things have changed with regard to spring/summer?The old way of loading yourself up with stock for February throughto June is over. Sales over this period represent such a smallpercentage, though sales have been buoyant since our Sale startedmid-June. All we seem to be doing for this season is loading ourshelves up with stock in February and March, only for the customerto now have been taught via research on the web to wait until thediscounting starts. In fact, the big boys were discounting – with upto 30 per cent off – from 1 May. And with big labels, too. It’s killingthe season in many respects, but you have to buy something, andcount on the brands, otherwise what do you put in the shop? Butwhat do you need to do to make it a profitable spring/summer thesedays? Call me an old cynic, but it’s almost like we’re becoming aWaterstones bookshop. It takes 70 per cent of its money in a three-month period – November, December and January. The rest of it isjust about paying bills.

what are brands doing to combat such discounting?Some of the big brands are starting to properly police onlinediscounting. And unless companies start the process of protectingtheir label’s identity on the web, and how it is sold, some willultimately become TK Maxx product. Louis Vuitton apparently burnsany excess stock. That’s the ultimate in brand protection. StoneIsland is also one of the best at protecting prices. It’s a luxuryproduct, so it should be sold at a luxury price. It’s about desirability– and that’s why customers have historically bought it in the firstplace. Mark-down periods need to be synergised and controlled.—

MARTIN SCHNEIDER,OWNER, ACCENT, LEEDS

you’re known for your denim offer, have there been any surprisesrecently in that area?D.I.E is a denim brand that has come in and hit the ground running. It’snot often you get that with a denim label, because people tend to stickwith brands and fits they know. But they’ve been very willing to tryD.I.E, and they like what they see. We had a great wash in from PRPS,but it was retailing at £250. D.I.E has done the same kind of wash,retailing at £100, and that’s done so well for us. In terms of jackets,Matchless has also been successful, with both the leathers andwaxed cottons – it’s very Belstaff looking. We do well with both brands.

do you put your money into the so-called “pre-collections” offeredfrom many brands?No, we’re staying away from those. We have enough stock constantlycoming in as it is, and our sell-throughs are better for it. I think it’sbetter to stay on your toes and see what happens in-season. Forinstance, last July the sales guy from MQT came in with a load ofchinos that had been professionally turned into shorts – all indifferent colours. He hung them on a rope behind the counter, andthey just flew. Everyone else had sold out of shorts, but people wereonly just starting to go on holiday, and the weather had warmed up.We sold around 300 pairs.

you’re celebrating your 30th anniversary this year, do you haveanything special planned?We will be having a big party in the last week of September, thoughno date is confirmed as yet. Grenson, which we’ve stocked from dayone, is making us an Accent 30th anniversary brogue, in an oxbloodleather with navy blue stitching, all handmade – with the Accent logoembossed on the sole and stamped on the inside. And Replay,another brand that has been with us from the start, is making us 30pairs of anniversary jeans, all numbered in a limited-edition wash,with leather patch and Accent-embossed logo. They will be sold inthe shop, though one pair will be raffled off on the night, along withother special products. Denham is also making us 30 pairsof anniversary jeans, all numbered and signed by Jason Denham. AndLyle & Scott is making us a 30th anniversary polo shirt.—

retailround-up

tom bottomley speaks to six of the uk’s key independent retailers about the season ahead and whatapproach they’ve taken to keeping customers coming through the door, when a number of high-profile

menswear retailers have shut-up shop in 2014.—


JAMES BROWN,OWNER, HOSTEM, LONDON E2

what direction are you taking with your buying?We’re streamlining it. Coming into our fifth year in business, we’vefinally got a grasp on our customer base. Whereas the likes ofMayfair has more of an obvious following, we have more of adestination client. People make more of a conscious effort to bringthemselves over to this side of London. With regard to this, we’vehad extreme success with our more artisan narratives, but we’ve alsolearnt which brands work best for us. However, there is a turningpoint in the industry where it’s now slightly moving away from theartisan and workwear looks.

so where do you see it going next?It seems to be pushing back to the high-fashion end, which isinteresting for us. For instance, we’re getting asked for brands suchas Raf Simons, which we’ve got coming in, as well as Dries Van Noten.Lanvin is another one people are asking for again. It’s the fashionhouses, as opposed to just fashion. People are starting to veer backto the fashion power houses. Prada, for example, has been pumpingout amazing collections for the last two or three seasons – for bothmen and women. We’re not doing Prada – sometimes you can getthem, sometimes you can’t. But we’re looking to make sure that sideof our client base is also taken care of as well as the artisan fans thatwe have – which is perhaps what we’ve become known for. Not thatwe want to move away from it, but we definitely want to develop ourclient base. We’re not afraid to mix brands and looks, giving ourcustomers a better understanding of how you can break them upand match them together as opposed to just wearing a “uniform”.

is the look to be seen in changing then?From a streetwear perspective, as in style on the street, I’d say it’sbecoming a lot more elegant. It was maybe a bit grungy before. Interms of our customers, we’re definitely having a want and need fornot only our artisan labels, but also the higher price point fashionhouse brands such as Yohji Yamamoto and Comme des Garçons.—

ANDY MAYBEE,BUYER, JOHN ANTHONY, BATH, BOURNEMOUTH,BRISTOL, SWINDON, OXFORD ANDSOUTHAMPTON

what are your moves regarding buying for s/s 15?I’ve been back and forth to Paris, firstly looking at Helmut Lang andthen Carven and Acne. I also went back to do D Squared and Y-3,and took a look at the shows. I didn’t do Pitti this time. To be honest,we’re tightening up on budgets, and we pretty much know what wewant. And we’re looking to back the ones that are selling at themoment. Brands such as Stone Island and CP Company are workingvery well. Armani Jeans has also been fantastic, and we’re bringingin Hugo Boss for a/w 14 and s/s 15. Labels such as Carven and Acneare quite new to us, so we need to see how it goes.

what about with your footwear offer?A brand called Filling Pieces seems to be one that’s on everyone’sradar at the moment. It’s quite a cool Dutch trainer label, and we’relooking to bring it in for next season. It appeals across the ages, andit’s quite a clean look. All those loud trainers have slowed down forus. I think people are going back to more of a traditional court trainerlook. Brands such as Creative Recreation do a classic look, whichseems to be doing well for us at the moment.

what do you make of the summer sales increasingly happeningearlier?I think we’re all fighting against Sales starting too early. It was alwaysaround the end of July, then it was mid-July, then end of June. Butnow, because of the multiples, it’s been brought forward yet againand we’re going on Sale in the middle of June. It’s just too early. It’sok for the multiples, because they’re most likely getting kick-backsfrom the suppliers, but the smaller guys can’t get that, yet we haveto follow suit. When the likes of House of Fraser, John Lewis, HarveyNichols and Selfridges start to go on Sale, especially with the onlinefactor coming into it so strongly, you’ve almost got no choice.

what can be done to combat the online discounting?I think the bigger brands are starting to police it a lot more in termsof who they let have their product. That needs to happen becauseit’s become a discount medley. I think there was something like 85online accounts selling Ralph Lauren at one time, but that’s been cutback to around 20. We’re launching a much slicker website ourselvestowards the end of July.—

>>>


ROWAN HINES, OWNER, ROOM 14, ASHTON-UNDER-LYNE

what are you doing to give your shop a point of difference?Over the last few seasons we’ve been conscious that our offer hasto be different from the high street for us to stand out. Our brandmix now covers anything from streetwear through to well-established heritage brands, and this has worked well for us. Ifanything it’s made us even more of a destination shop.

what’s your view on sales increasingly starting earlier?Every year is trickier than the last when it comes to Sale time, as themultiples and online retailers go into Sale earlier and earlier. It putssmall independents like ourselves under massive pressure, as wecan’t afford to lose precious margins by going into Sale at the sametime as the big boys. It would crucify our business. The only answeris to hold out and hope your product is strong enough, and sell-through at full price. It would be great to see the powers that be seta date in the summer, and also at Christmas, that everyone couldstick to. But sadly retail sales are too volatile, and it becomes everyman for himself.

what have you got coming in to liven things up in-store?For this autumn we’ve brought in a couple of new brands –Anerkjendt and Good For Nothing. We’ve brought Anerkjendt in aswe’ve generally had success with Scandinavian brands in the past.Over the last couple of seasons Humor has worked well for us, andAnerkjendt comes across as its cool older brother, so they should sitperfectly together. Good For Nothing is another addition to ourstreetwear stable. Our core demographic is 16-30 and the streetwearside to our business is where we’ve seen the most growth andvolume. Hot brands for us right now are Abandon Ship, Cuckoo’sNest, Fred Perry, Farah Vintage, Humor, Creative Recreation andClae. Good For Nothing has been seen on a few of the currentpopular reality shows, and the brand has a big social-mediafollowing – which is perfect for our customer.

looking ahead to s/s 15, are you planning any drastic changes toyour buying?We’re looking to keep the brand mix pretty much the same, apartfrom a couple of introductions. We were happy with the sell-throughlast season, so have decided that if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. As faras product is concerned, we’re hoping that our brands continue topush the boundaries design-wise. Our customers can be prettyadventurous and aren’t put off by something new, so hopefully thecollections we see can offer us that. —

PETER TURNER, OWNER, WELL GOSH, LEICESTER

how are you viewing buying for s/s 15? We are backing our best brands and increasing our forward orderswith them, while at the same time becoming more aggressive incutting back or dropping brands that haven't been working.Customers are now savvy and selective about where they want tospend their money.

is it now more important to buy more and replenish in-season withshort-order options? More and more brands are offering short-order and in-season drops,and we are keen to hold back a proportion of the seasonal budgetto cater for injection ranges and to re-order bestselling lines.

is streetwear firmly back on the map as a growing trend?Although we have never seen ourselves as purely a streetwear store,and have diversified quite a lot over the years, we are still keen tooffer a premium range of what we see as the best and most relevantbrands in this genre. We are definitely seeing a big interest in whatis probably a core look for us. Increasingly, traditionally smarter or“dressy” brands are taking influences from streetwear looks andtrying to offer their own take on it. Sometimes it works, sometimesit doesn’t. We have a few core brands that have defined and shapedthe look and feel of our store and which have been ever present fromday one. Stüssy and Carhartt are prime examples, showing how long-term brand and store relationships sh ould work. It’s also alwayscyclic. As the catwalks began to mix in street influences, the interestin the original innovators of streetwear grows and this in turn hashelped develop the popularity of the look.

who are the new kids on the block in this area that are attractingyounger customers who weren’t here the first time round?We are doing well with brands such as Palace, Billionaire Boys Club,10 Deep, Black Scale and Huf. They offer an edgy product that thenext generation of streetwear customer can identify with.

are you benefiting greatly from this new explosion of trainerinterest? Adidas and Nike are leading the way for us and we are seeing moreand more interest in their top-tier and exclusive offerings, with bothof these brands great at giving a modern take on classic styles. Asics,New Balance and Puma are also innovative in their marketingstrategies, and we’ve seen strong offerings from all of these labelsfor the coming months.—



www.mwb-online.co.uk JULY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | CONTENTS | 55

This season Bench presents a strong collection driven by the continued demand for multi-purpose, functionalclothing. Split into three phases across both Life and Performance ranges, each product has been designedfor the “active and style-conscious city dweller”. The first of the three phases, Safety utilises elements suchas moisture-wicking technologies to regulate temperature in the summer. The second phase, Adaptability,focuses on lightweight layering, which features waterproofing and breathability while maintaining its versatility.The third and final phase, Motion provides an enhancement of movement with the use of anatomicconstruction through displaced seams and high reach sleeves. Stretch panels on shorts and rib panels alsoenhance movement and activity.

—

D E N I M & S T R E E T

fashion, formand function

56 product news Rounding up the key stories this month

58 in-season stockFestival fever

60 brick lane highlightsKey names to catch at this season’s Jacket Required

64 london collections: menThe best of last month’s London showcase

67 dl1961 giving jeans the xfit factor Premium denim label DL1961’s first foray into menswear

68 northern soulMWB’s seasonal young fashion photoshoot

www.mwb-online.co.uk JULY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | PRODUCT | 56

radarspotlighting style.

product newsinside menswear.

ESTABLISHED: 1978—HISTORY: Founded by Renzo Rosso, the denim label was created whenRosso bought 40 per cent of clothing manufacturer Moltex, which was owned by Adriano Goldschmied, and subsequently changed itsname to Diesel. —SIGNATURE STYLE: Renowned for its experimental fits and innovativewashes and finishes, Diesel has developed into a distinctive high-fashionlabel, with the appointment of artistic Nicola Formichetti, and has a clearvision running through both men’s and womenswear.

Independent and anti-preppy; two buzzwords used to describe the pres/s 15 collection from denim specialist Diesel, which sees the latest creative offering from artistic director Nicola Formichetti.

Split into three sub categories, including Preppy Rock, Tattoo andBlack Carpet, the line-up includes sporty logo jackets and sweaters,graphic-embellished casualwear and a subversive take on classiceveningwear.

Taking a closer look into each segment, preppy Rock sees clean-cut varsity jackets given an edge with frayed denim sleeves and styledwith skinny leather pants. Big letters, numbers and Greek letters in blue,yellow and red are logoed on pockets of tailored blazers, sweatshirtsand classic caps.

Tattoo, meanwhile, features strong graphic prints, which appearlike ink-work over leather jackets, embroidered on satin bombers orprinted onto scarves. Leather biker jackets combine tattoo prints withmetal emblem hardware and zip detailing.

Finally, the brand’s take on red-carpet eveningwear sees check andblack shirts trimmed with detachable ruffles, tuxedo jackets with deniminserts or lapel and tonal black Swarovski crystals on front pockets.Mirrored silver moccasins and pointed black boots give the elegantlooks a flinty edge.www.diesel.com

DIESEL

A SPRING DEBUT

Canadian outerwear specialistCanada Goose launches its firstspring outdoor performancecollection for s/s 15, designed to offerwarmth, protection and flexibilityneeded for the unpredictable spring weather.

The range features new stylesas well as updates to some of thebrand’s top-selling lightweight stylesthat can be worn either layered or ontheir own. Newness comes frombreathable, water-resistant SoftShells that are flexible and designedto move with the wearer.

The performance-drivenTechnical Shells and award-winningHyBridge Lite styles will also be available in a seriesof bright colours with contrasting trims. —

THE LEGACYCONTINUES

Drawing inspiration fromthe clothing produced afterthe Second World War,menswear label Garbstorepresents a comprehensivecollection for s/s 15,comprising a range oftraditional wardrobe staplesre-imagined to fit today’swearer. Sourcing materialfrom Western Japan, thebrand continues to utilisethe finest, high-qualitydenim crafted in the way forwhich it is renowned. —

www.mwB-oNlINE.co.uk JULY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | PRODUCT | 57

ON TREND

Following a successful relaunch for a/w 14, footwear label Barleycorn gets ready to starta new chapter in its history for the summer season, with a strong focus on markets suchas France, Scandinavia, Asia and the uk.

A welcomed highlight this season is the New Classic. Mixing the comfort typical of thesports shoe and the fashion element of strong robust leathers, the model features a wave shapemidsole and an extra-light outsole, which gives stability, grip and lightness. This latest designis predicted to be a Barleycorn bestseller – definitely one to watch this season.

The Air (pictured), is the perfect synthesis betweentradition and innovation of the brand, featuring a hi-techair bag inserted into the midsole as a cushioning effectfor a high performance of style and functionality. Withmore than 70 versions, the Air model is almost acollection within a collection.

Classic models, meanwhile, are renewed, such asthe Classic 781, which sees the addition of a highermidsole of 2mm, available in various colours. www.barleycorn.it/en

BRANd To wATcH

BARLEYCORN ESTABLISHED: 1991—HISTORY: Originally foundedover 20 years ago, Barleycornwas relaunched earlier last yearby parent company Fornari Spa– the specialist Italian fashionstreetwear and footwearcompany known for producingFornarina apparel and footwear. —SIGNATURE STYLE:Synonymous with high qualityand Italian craftsmanship, thebrand blends traditional styleswith innovative design.

1 2

3 4

5

1: BELLFIELD£6.50 07712 522874

2: SIKSILK£10 07792 269860

3: DOUBLE IDENTITY£10.50 07762 526027

4: FLOSSYprice on [email protected]

5: RANSOMS£41.50 0161 236 9855

Seasonal extras: Summer shoes

Unless stated otherwiseall prices are wholesale

A NEW NAUTICAL

Henri Lloyd presents a new take on nautical this season, as itshowcases a smarter look across its apparel and footwear offer.Timeless staples are given a new twist, providing a modern spin on firm favourites.

Stripes remain a key trend across the board for s/s 15, whileinspiration isn’t just taken from the sea – expect influences fromthe Riviera and classic Cannes styling via relaxed tailoring and aclean colour palette. —

www.mwb-online.co.uk JULY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | PRODUCT | 58

headline act

TOY WATCH 020 7434 2162PRICE ONREQUEST

with the festival season in full swing, bold wardrobe options such ascoloured denims and fluro rain macs sit alongside the classic graphicprint tee and playful accessories including earphones and chunkyrubber watches. —

LUKE 1977 £1401869 366580

PENFIELD BELFONTCAPE £32 020 7720 5050

WESC £10 01271 865600

ICON BRAND £8.33020 3137 7217


QUAYAUSTRALIA £100161 272 9381

URBANEARS£25 020 3051 5236

WAXX £8.50 0114 249 3037

EVISU PRICE ON REQUEST 07816 530516

SCOTCH & SODAPRICE ONREQUEST 020 3137 3901


www.mwb-online.co.uk JULY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | JACKET REQUIRED | 60

brick lanehighlights

as jacket required approaches, with its widest offer of apparel, footwear and accessories to date,mwb takes a look at some of the key new signings and returning favourites set to take their places at

london’s old truman brewery on 30-31 july 2014. —

LACOSTE

Drawing inspiration from its sporting origins of sailing, tennis and golf, Lacostebrings clean lines and contemporary silhouettes to the forefront of its s/s 15line. Split into three themes – Urban Sail & Sea, Clean Lines and CraftedSilhouettes – the brand offers a varied selection of footwear models. TheClean Lines category, for example, presents a “court classic”, while a key style inUrban Sail & Sea is the Keellson, which is a lightweight boating shoe with suppleburnished leather and pique texturing around the foxing. Finally, a highlight ofthe Crafted Silhouettes line is the Sherbrooke Brogue – a golf-inspired design,which features suede uppers, leather in-sock and waxed laces.

—

CHINTI AND PARKER

A new label to the show, Chinti and Parker willpresent its first menswear offer, which iscomprehensive despite its infancy. Knitwear sitsat the core of the collection, with a variety ofcotton, cashmere and wool-blend sweater andcardigan styles. Its shirting line, meanwhile,offers just two essential choices – a relaxed yetslim horizontal striped blue and cream cottonshirt and an indigo chambray version, both ofwhich strike a fine balance between off-duty andsemi-formal.

—

BEN SHERMAN

Iconic British label Ben Sherman continues to celebrateits 50-year heritage with its s/s 15 range, showcasinga full lifestyle offering of contemporary menswear.The button-up shirt is synonymous with the Modlabel, and the new season sees this category sitconfidently at the collection’s core. Newness comesfrom prints inspired by the British summer holiday –imagine Brighton rock motifs and illustrations ofbunting from a nostalgic British sports day.

—


CLARKS ORIGINALS

Designed in 1949 by Nathan Clark,the Clarks desert boot has become asignature style throughout thebrand’s history. For s/s 15, the desertboot remains, celebrating not only its65th anniversary since launching butalso 65 years of working with Englishtannery Charles F Stead – acelebration that will see the releaseof a Made in England edition of thebrand’s most iconic style. The Madein England style features the originalCharles F Stead Bronto sand suede,distinctive orange stitching and aleather runner board.

—

PORTUGUESE FLANNEL

Living up to its name, Portuguese Flannel isexpertly crafted in the Northern tip of Portugal inGuimarães, a region renowned for its textileheritage. Using high-quality fabrics and suitableprocession techniques, each garment is measuredby the ounce of cotton per square yard, unlike thecommon “thread count” used for tightly wovencotton. Not a brand to follow trends, normovements, s/s 15 will see a continuation ofPortuguese Flannel’s core product; the flannel shirt.

—

POINTER

Taking influence from Hungarian-born American designer Eva Zeisel, footwear brand Pointer introduces a series of newmodels for s/s 15, coupled with abstract patterns and textiles– Mindanao and Woven Diamond – that draw on Zeisel’sindustrial design ethos. The new season will also see the labelonce again work with Sacha Knight of lifestyle label KnightMills on an exclusive print for summer 2015.

—

HARRY STEDMAN

Returning favourite Harry Stedmanprepares to showcase its most variedcollection to date at the up-comingedition of Jacket Required. Featuringconstructed Japanese wovens in itsshirting category through tolightweight outerwear optionsdesigned for the unpredictableBritish weather and soft Italianjerseys for tees, sweatshirts and thenew hoody model, the focus is firmlyon quality of fabric this season. Keypieces include a smart Ventileunlined mac and the classic Drizzlerjacket, as well as a reversible cottonand linen Deck jacket.

—

SANDQVIST

Building on its continued success, Scandinavian accessorylabel Sandqvist introduces a new premium offer to its core collection of bags, leather goods and smallaccessories. The first new addition, Grand Canvas(pictured), showcases business bags with a touch of casual,in a well-defined mix of heavy cotton canvas and vegetabletanned leather. The Premium Leather line, meanwhile, is abrand new series featuring minimalistic yet luxe bags and a wallet model in the highest-quality leather.

—

>>>


CATHERINE DANG

Australian-born designer Catherine Dangmakes her debut at this season’s JacketRequired, showcasing her eponymous label,comprising premium leather bags andaccessories. Established earlier this year,Dang wanted to create a brand that“produced quality handmade accessories,from conception through to production, inone studio, with particular consideration forprovenance of materials, quality of productand utility of design.” With wholesale pricesranging from £52 for small leather goods to£187 for bags, the price tag certainly reflectsthe quality of product and, with Dang lookingto secure select UK stockists, this couldcertainly be a label to watch.

—

DR MARTENS

British label Dr Martens will showcase its exclusiveMade in England range at Jacket Required thisseason. Created at the Cobbs Lane Factory inWollaston, the brand cleverly mixes tradition withthe edge Dr Martens is renowned for with its newSteed style – seen here on street-style favouriteand brand ambassador La Touché.

—

SPIEWAK GOLDEN FLEECE

Returning to Jacket Required once more,American outerwear company Spiewakcontinues to evolve its Spiewak Golden Fleececollection for men. Made entirely in New York,the sub-division of Spiewak incorporatesreinterpretations of iconic styles, including theWaxed M-43 Field Jacket, Reflective FishtailParka and Waxed Deck Jacket. A reflectivecamouflage print is placed on certain styles that can only be seen properly when bright light hits the pattern.

—

LIGHTNING BOLT

The new season marks a maturation of the Lightning Bolt collection, wherebranding and design have evolved to beclean and bold through careful materialselection, detail, stitch and trim. Detailingincludes waterproofing, technical closuresand industrial-built seams with cleaninterior finishing. Highlights of the lineinclude a board-short offering updatedwith a diverse array of functional fabrics,water shed pockets and adjustabletechnical closures.

—

HANCOCK VULCANISED ARTICLES

Another first-timer at the s/s 15edition of Jacket Required, luxuryouterwear specialist Hancock bringsBritish heritage to the fore with itscollection of handmade, rubber-bonded raincoats. Not onefor the colour shy, teal, orange andyellow add newness to the summeroffering, while navy, ink, taupe andblack add to the collection’scommerciality. This season seesHancock continue its partnershipwith Liberty Art Fabrics, with fiveprints chosen from the Libertyarchive reworked with colour, scaleand pattern repeat – all with theinclusion of the brand’s HVA logo.

—

E N G I N E E R E D F O R C I T Y T E R R A I NPALLADIUM BOOTS

SHOWING AT JACKET REQUIRED STAND 90

www.mwb-online.co.uk JULY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | REVIEW | 64

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

A key name in the s/s 15 line-up, AlexanderMcQueen returned to London Collections: Menwith a collection dominated by graphic prints.An abstracted kabuki pattern to be precise,which is used all-over as an asymmetricalplacement or stripped back to just a single blockof colour. Silhouettes, meanwhile, were oversizedor elongated, while trousers were cut wide andloose, or drop-crotched and skinny. Fabricsincluded cotton poplin, silk jacquards, leatherbonded vinyl and jet bugle beading, whilecolours were a mix of white, black, brick red,Matisse blue, beige and mustard. Finishing offthe outfits were a series of oversized sneakersand pointy shoes with an exaggerated wedge insolid colour or with the abstracted kabuki motif.—

DUCHAMP

The second day of the London event sawDuchamp present its latest tailored offer, in linewith its 25th anniversary celebrations. A newchapter in the British brand’s story sees GianniColarossi as newly appointed creative director.Colarossi’s debut focused on three distinctivestories – Elegant English Gentry, ContemporaryRiviera and Summer Eveningwear. ElegantEnglish gentry saw single-breasted peak lapelsuits in Italian lightweight wool appear in mutedtones of blue and grey. Contemporary Rivierapresented unstructured seersucker notch lapelblazers and double-breasted jackets. Finally,Summer Eveningwear included printed silk shirtsand jackets in paisley and diamond spots.—

lon

do

nc

oll

ect

ion

s:m

en

From catwalks throughpresentations to the finelytuned static exhibition oflondon collections: men,mwb was on hand to spot theemerging trends for the newseason. Here are five showsthat caught the team’s eyeacross the three-day event.—

www.mwb-online.co.uk JULY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | REVIEW | 65

MAHARISHI

Making its debut at London Collections: Menthis season, Maharishi travelled to the MiddleEast for inspiration, retracing the footsteps ofItalian artist Alighiero Boetti. In 1967, Boettibecame the first artist to take military disruptivepatterned cloth and present it in a gallerycontext. This manner of recycling was key toMaharishi’s s/s 15 offering, with vintage Italiantelo Mimetico military jumpsuits upcycled andtransformed into long fitted pants and VietnamWar era Tour Jackets, drawing on the parallelsbetween the historical invasion of Vietnam andthat of Afghanistan today. Artwork based ontraditional Afghan handweaving, meanwhile,could be seen on lightweight cotton/linen andpashmina shawls, T-shirts and hooded sweats. —

OLIVER SPENCER

Returning to the Old Sorting Office, OliverSpencer’s show was once again packed to the rafters with fashion editors, bloggers and faces including David Gandy andmodel-of-the-moment Oliver Cheshire sittingfront row. With music from Rhythms of the City,Oliver Spencer presented a range inspired byMexican architect Luis Barragan. Key piecesincluded the Buffalo jacket in suede and cotton,tote bags in suede, the Barragan shirt withexaggerated length and the introduction of aconstructed jacket. New shirt shapes wereadded elsewhere in the collection, with looseand relaxed fits, dropped necklines referencingan artist’s smock and acknowledgement of abohemian feel to the range.—

YMC

British label YMC combined 60s surf with 90sminimalism to give its s/s 15 collection a loose,relaxed silhouette, while a melting pot of boldprints were inspired by 20s silk pyjamas andtraditional feed sacks brought back from the 40ssitting comfortably next to stripes and checks.Uniform khaki and navy were lifted by primaryreds, royals and a pink dust, featured in a seriesof fabrics including PU-coated linen, perforatedcotton and nylon. Principal outerwear piecesincluded the see-through rubber flashers’ mac,the check line drawstring blazer andembroidered dot field jacket. —

INTRODUCING THE NEW SPRING/SUMMER 2015 RANGEAVAILABLE NOW

—SALES ENQUIRIES : JUST CONSULTANCIES

TEL : 0207 739 7620 | [email protected]

MI-PAC.COM

www.mwb-online.co.uk JULY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | DL1961 | 67

dl1961 giving jeanstHe XFit Factor

new York premium denim brand dl1961 has made big inroads into the women’s jeans market with itsinnovative four-way stretch XFit lycra denim, with stores such as Harrods, Harvey nichols, Fenwick

and trilogy all buying into it. now it’s the men’s turn, as tom bottomley discovers.—

dl1961 launched its men’s collection in 2011.However, it hasn’t been given a push in the ukuntil now. the brand had a cult following withwomen (originally launched in 2008) because ofits jeans with excellent shape retention, comfortand fit, so it was only a question of time beforemen were targeted, too.

The company founders and creativedirectors are two sisters – Sarah and ZahraAhmed – based in New York. But are the men’sjeans all about the XFit, too? “Absolutely,” saysSarah. “It is the DLX that gives the denim thatsuper-soft feel. However, we did play with thewashes and fabrication to make sure that thedenim looks masculine, as well as feelingincredibly comfortable. So, essentially, you can get the popular selvedge look without putting in the time, and dealing with the chaffing,associated with actual selvage denim. Whodoesn’t want that?”

In terms of the range of fits, Sarah and Zahrahave made the conscious decision to keep itedited. They say they have perfected the fit ineach category, be it slim, skinny, relaxed and so on.“We guarantee that once you identify what worksfor your body, whatever wash or fabric you choosein it, it will fit exactly the same,” says Sarah. “We

wanted to create denim that is more of a utilityand enables you to live in it 24/7, as opposed tocreating the one-off fashion pieces you will onlywear once.

“This allowed us to transition easily into themen’s market, because men are all about thetechnology, comfort and having garments that cango easily from day to night,” she continues. “We alsotreat our denim line with a great product that makesit odourless. That will definitely appeal to men.”

Sarah says that another factor that attributedto the brand’s successful launch in their homemarket was that, compared to women, men arevery loyal with their fashion choices. “Once themen tried out our jeans and recognised thedifference that DL1961 provided, they came backfor more. This has organically grown the business.Whether you’re a 20-something tech guru whoskateboards to and from work, or a 40-plusentrepreneur going from the plane to theboardroom in denim and a smart blazer – we havesomething for you.”

As opposed to the much wider women’srange, the men’s collection has indeed been keptvery tight, in keeping with their mission to createan edited and easy to navigate line. There are fivecore fits in three fabrications (DLX, DLX Hybrid

and XTwill) and various washes in each. DLX is the brand’s signature fabric that is a cotton andLycra blend with maximum retention, and is aheavier weight. “DLX is used when we want toachieve the darkest and cleanest washes,” saysAhmed. DLX Hybrid is a lighter-weight denim thathas a higher cotton content as compared to DLX.That’s used when they want to achieve moredepth in washes. “We produce most of our vintagewashes in this fabrication.” XTwill is a new fabricdevelopment that has all the benefits of the denim(as in four-way stretch, 360-degree movement,anti-bacterial and odourless) but in a peached twillfabrication.

A core denim jacket has also been addedahead of a/w for men. But Ahmed stresses it is allabout keeping the offer simple. “Our venture intothe UK is the same as our venture anywhere elsein the world – a combination of strong branding,excellent product and a unique sellingproposition. We believe that the customer willrespond well to all these elements.” UK sales arehandled by Palladio Associates, and price pointsfor the jeans start at £180. There’s certainly plentyof men who can stretch to that if they think they’regetting something a bit special. Time will tell if theXF it has the X Factor.

NORTHERNSOUL

MWB BRINGS TOGETHER THE BESTCONTEMPORARY PRODUCT THE NEW SEASON HAS TO OFFER, ACROSS DIRECTIONAL, DENIM

AND STREETWEAR. —

BOXFRESH TOP £34 020 8297 4635SUPERDRY JOGGING BOTTOMS £20.83 01242 578376SURF LIQUOR TEE £12.60 07971 360690PALLADIUM SHOES £24 07585 300402ALL JEWELLERY MODEL’S OWN—

SOULLAND TOP £88 0045 23454750BOXFRESH JOGGING BOTTOMS £28 020 8297 4635—


GUIDE SHIRT £20 020 7481 1111WEEKEND OFFENDER SHORTS £14.8101332 614755CASUAL FRIDAY NECK TIE £6 020 3432 6387

—


RAINS DK JACKET £27.50 0161 839 5999DUCK & COVER JEANS £26 020 8435 1668OHW? SHOES £52 07813 212416RAINS DK BUCKET BAG £18.50 0161 839 5999—

SCHOTT JACKET £101.15 07957 247411MONTA HERITAGE TROUSERS £900031 652593284MONTA HERITAGE T-SHIRT £25 0031 652593284OHW? SHOES £52 07813 212416—


SCHOTT JACKET £29.75 07957 247411ALPINESTARS SHORTS £18 0039 04235286KNOWN TEE £11.50 07877 430811—

AIGLE JACKET £68 01608 813860SOULLAND BOTTOMS £96 0045 23454750VOLCOM TEE £16 020 7729 2744SAUCONY TRAINERS £27.30 [email protected]—


ORIGINAL PENGUIN JACKET £43 020 7291 7632WEEKEND OFFENDER SHIRT £22.2201332 614755VOLCOM SHORTS £20 020 7729 2744—

BERONTI JACKET £65 020 3432 6387CASUAL FRIDAY JEANS PRICE ON REQUEST 020 3432 6387BRUTUS TRIM SHIRT £21.50 020 7224 4031ANTHONY MILES SHOES £43.90 WWW.ANTHONY-MILES.CO.UKHAPPY SOCKS RRP £8 020 3051 5236—

BRUTUS TRIM SHIRT £21.50 020 7224 4031—

GABICCI TOP £18.50 01442 233700ORIGINAL PENGUIN SHORTS £29 020 7291 7632OKUN FOOTWEAR PRICE ON REQUESTWWW.OKUNBEACHWEAR.COM—

MERC TOP £23 020 7495 8538MERC TROUSERS £25 020 7495 8538—


FARAH 1920 TOP £16 07879 119344 6TH SENSE TROUSERS £11.96 020 3432 6387—

HENTSCH MAN SHIRT £110 020 3411 7341GABICCI SHORTS £22 01442 233700LAST BUT WON JUMPER £23.50 020 7095 1145AIGLE BOAT SHOES £47.70 01608 813860—

CROJACK JACKET £45 01902 711823SOULLAND TROUSERS £96 0045 23454750CASUAL FRIDAY SHIRT £16.70 020 3432 6387SAUCONY TRAINERS £27.30 [email protected] BAG PRICE ON REQUEST 020 8731 3500—

PHOTOGRAPHS: CHRIS HARVEY WWW.CHRISHARVEYPHOTO.COM

MODEL: TOM FOLLOWS @ NEMESIS MODEL AGENCYWWW.NEMESISAGENCY.CO.UKMAKE-UP: FATEMA BANGEE

[email protected]: VICTORIA JACKSON

STYLING ASSISTANTS: REBECCA JACKSON, MICHAEL PODGER

WWW.mWB-onLIne.Co.uK JULY 2014 | PEOPLE | 84

CoLLeCTIveThe people, the places, the products.

When is a toilet not a toilet? This question has been vexing me thisweek. and oddly it goes to the heart of two of my favourite issues –customer service, and my old bugbear, health and safety.

my tale begins in the swanky new John Lewis Home store onCroydon’s Purley Way. Truly, this shop is pearls before swine. i was in thereto buy a new washing machine, as my faithful Zanussi had decided toshuffle off its mortal drum. i was seduced by the shiny lines of a bosch,and the helpful sales manager closed the deal. Job done. or so i thought...

i’d paid for the installation and removal of the old machine, and leftit in the hands of my ruthlessly efficient Polish cleaner to let them in andonly to call me if there was a problem. Ever efficient, Derek, from the JohnLewis van, called to say they were on their way. so far so good. but thenEvalina called to say that the good news was they’d delivered the bosch;bad news was they’d refused to fit it. “something to do with your toilet,mister simon,” she said. almost as soon as i’d put the phone down, JLPcustomer service called to explain. “We can’t install it in a toilet,” she said.“it’s not a toilet,” i said. “it’s a utility room with a toilet in it.” and so begana long-winded conversation back and forth about what constituted atoilet. “but i have two other toilets in the house that i use more than thisone!” i protested. i prevailed, and she said i should call the Croydon storeto reschedule delivery.

as ever with JLP, the man on the end of the line was super helpful.Until we went over the toilet issue – again. This time, it was all about healthand safety. “What exactly is the risk here?” i asked. “your toilet couldflood.” Well, yes it could. but surely that would be my problem? “it wouldinvalidate the warranty.” Whose warranty? yours or mine? i couldunderstand it if JLP were terrified that i’d confuse the washing machinewith the toilet and jam my bum in the drum, but flooding? There wouldneed to be a tsunami in there before anything significant happened.“Would they install it in my kitchen, between a leaking sink and a leakingdishwasher and under a defective boiler that could flood onto it?apparently so. no problems there.

He stood his ground as i argued back and forth, finally offering mesome compensation for having to have my own plumber out, but itwouldn’t cover the costs. This entailed a further call to someone muchfurther up the chain. by now i’d taken to Twitter and, goodness me, howspeedily the issue was resolved after that. The power of social media. simon Carter is the Ceo of the eponymous brand and retail stores.

—

LiTTLE bLaCk bookJazzLIve aT The CryPT, sT GILes ChurCh, CamBerWeLL,

London se5

after launching in 1995, Jazzlive at The Crypt has gone on to play host toan impressive range of musicians from across the world.

Established in Camberwell as the only dedicated music venue in thearea at the time, today the night attracts a vast and varied crowd, rangingfrom local students to young professionals turning out for the fair prices anda shared love of music.

Guests can expect to enjoy drinks, food and live jazz. Previously usedby a homeless charity, the venue was transformed into a jazz club after localmusic enthusiasts suggested the idea to benefit the community. With itsgothic architecture and eerie candlelit atmosphere, the night is a perfectalternative to some of London’s more commercial jazz venues. Concerts takeplace every Friday and often on Thursday and saturday evenings.

—

PLan B

Karen amesHead of sales, 1...Like no other

When I was younger, during my teens and 20s, I wasa keen tennis player and spent all my free time oncourt, which I absolutely loved. —so if i could do it all over again, i would definitelywork much harder on developing my game. Whoknows, maybe i could have been looking forward toplaying at Wimbledon instead of being a spectator. ididn’t turn my back on the sport completely, as i’vecontinued to play at club level. i still play regularly acouple of times a week. Fast forward to 2014 and i’dprobably have been a coach or in a senior admin roleat the LTa, provided it allowed me to still play. i havealways liked winning – that’s never gone away.

—

simon says

CLoseTConfIdenTIaL

WWW.mWB-onLIne.Co.uK JULY 2014 | PEOPLE | 85

I have long been a fan of arc’tery, the Canadian brandthat seemingly made several huge leaps in the evolutionof technical outerwear more than a decade ago – leavingeveryone in their wake playing catch up. While the design-led Valiance collection is great in theory, i have been morethan a little preoccupied with the LEaF (Law Enforcementand armed Forces) line since learning of its existence. it’sstill made in Canada and tricky to get hold of, but imanaged to score a lightweight take on the classic alphasilhouette. That’s definitely a pick.Going to nepenthes, the new york garment district store

stocking all things Engineered and beyond, is always a treat. on my last visit i cameaway a south 2 West 8 bag, which reminds me of the sort of thing shorty’s put outin the 90s.In an attempt to steer away from a wallet, I have opted for a combination of avintage money clip and a Goyard card holder. i had a “faux yard” card holder thathad seen better days, so replaced it with a legitimate version while in asia. The moneyclip came from an antiques market.The sperry Cvo is a bonafide classic. Paul sperry’s take on the Canvas Vampoxford feels slightly more refined than some of the other CVos out there, quicklybecoming my summer staple. The birch colour sees the most action, but the 75thanniversary “nantucket red” from a few seasons back comes a close second. my thinning mop and quick scan of my Instagram proves I rarely leave the housewithout a cap, and my Palace x Ebbets Field Flannels cap combines a lot of things ilove. Ebbets’ commitment to authenticity seems unparalleled, while Palace feels likea conversation with old friends. another firm favourite is my pair of supreme shorts. While some might dismiss itas “hypewear” or “Ralph for skate kids”, supreme supplies dependable staple pieces,combined with knowing references to some of my favourite things. These shortsincorporate the Us army’s short-lived night Desert camouflage. a winner.

—

CharLIe morGanemea marKeTInG manaGer, sPerry ToP-sIder

ToP TWEETs

soCiETy

Timothy Barber @TimTomato Phil Neville. Whispering slightly to himselfsince 1992

KimKierkegaardashian @KimKierkegaard My look is never complete withoutindescribable suffering

Esquire Magazine @EsquireUK Lou Dalton’s best show to date. Baseballshirts, minimal navy tailoring and bombersworn over blazers #lcm

NYT Fashion @NYTFashion “Women have a relationship to purses.Sneakers are our purses,” Will Welch, thestyle editor of GQ.

Ruffians @ruffians Don't make fun of barbers – they’ll respondwith cutting remarks #punoftheday

ShortList Magazine @ShortList @alt_J return with a dark new trackfeaturing a @MileyCyrus sample. Yes youread that right

Bespoke HQ �@Bespoke_HQ We love Florence! Such a beautiful city,ideal for getting lots of inspiration for thenew collection! #pittiuomo

One Young Gent @OneYoungGent Wearing the same socks as David Gandytoday, albeit in different colours.@LondonSockCo are going places! HearPharrell is after a pair now!

The ParTIes and evenTs from In and around The mensWear IndusTry.

NICK ASHLEY, CREATIVE DESIGNER OF PRIVATE WHITEV.C, CELEBRATING THE LAUNCH OF NEW PROJECTMANUFACTURING MENSWEAR (MAN/MEN) AT THEBRAND’S LAMBS CONDUIT STREET STORE, WHICH WASTURNED INTO A POP-UP GALLERY FOR LONDONCOLLECTIONS: MEN.

JEREMY HACKETT SPEAKING ABOUT HOW HACKETTBEGAN, DURING REGENT STREET’S RECENT ANNUALBLOGGING EVENT, REGENTS TWEET, WHICH WELCOMED102 BLOGGERS FROM COUNTRIES AROUND THE GLOBEINCLUDING SPAIN, FRANCE, RUSSIA AND THE US.

MODEL LAURA BAILEY AND CHARLES FINCH, CEO OFFINCH & PARTNERS AND CHUCS, AT THE RECENTLONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN PARTY TO CELEBRATETHE LAUNCH OF THE NEW CHUCS STORE AND CHUCSBAR & GRILL.


WWW.mWB-onLIne.Co.uK JULY 2014 | 87

The BoTTomLey LInemWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

G-sTar GeTs envIronmenTaLLyfrIendLy WITh neW CaPsuLeCoLLeCTIon

set to launch in stores this autumn, G-star hasteamed up with bionic yarn, a company thatdevelops and manufactures premium yarns andfabrics made with fibres derived from recycledplastic bottles, to create a new capsule line calledRaW for the oceans. it’s a proper first high-performance thread created from the tonnes ofdiscarded plastic bottles that end up in the sea.Highly commendable stuff indeed. as the bigissue of ocean plastic grows – each year, threetimes as much rubbish is dumped into the oceanas the weight of fish caught – so does the need fora solution. so G-star has joined forces with itspartners (also including Parley for the oceans andThe Vortex Project), using ground-breakingtechnology to not only retrieve plastic from theoceans, but transform it into a new generation ofdenim. This first collection of the RaW for theoceans initiative has already innovated over 10tonnes of the problematic ocean plastic.

and who should be the curator of thecollection and co-designer, who’s also a brandambassador for bionic yarn? yes, it’s that manPharrell Williams again. He gets about so much i’mstarting to think he’s bionic himself! Good workfrom G-star though, we have to say.

donrad dunCan has a BrandneW LIne

Until recently the designer of ma.sTRUm, andprior to that the man who launched apparel for Victorinox, Donrad Duncan is the creativedirector behind a brand new line launching forspring/summer 2015 called Engineered formotion, or EFm as it is referred to. it should besomething pretty special, as Duncan has onceagain been able to utilise the amazing massimoosti archive for research into fabrics and so on.Though the archive’s name will not appear on thenew label. says Duncan, “There is a thirst fornewness in the market now. Everything feels rightabout what we are doing with EFm. We are takinga 360 degree approach by looking at menswear

from every angle and elevating the developmentin design technique.” Well, it certainly soundsimpressive. The EFm collection goes beyondouterwear, too, with sweaters, jersey knits,trousers and swimwear.

Working in partnership with TristateHoldings, which has a strong reputation in themarket for producing high-end garments for manyof the best global brands, they have createdTrinnovation Lab, a state-of-the-art facility in Heife,China, that focuses on garment dying techniquesand various fabric content combinations, as wellas manufacturing applications that include seamfinishing and construction methods. This allowsDuncan to go directly to the lab with his ideas sothey can develop radically unique things together.Prices for outerwear will be between £249 and£500, so not too hefty for the work that seems to beinvolved in it all. sales in the Uk are being handledby index London, which also sells baracuta andspiewak. it seems it’s becoming a one-stop shopfor decent outerwear. EFm will be a new additionat the forthcoming Jacket Required on 30-31 July.

BaCK To The fuTure

a quick note on my pre-Pitti preparations from

last month. Firstly, my laptop died, then, threedays later – two days before i was due to fly toFlorence – my samsung Galaxy s3 phone decidedto die too. now it took me long enough toembrace a phone that can do a lot more than takeand make calls and send and receive texts in thefirst place. but this left me stumped. i lost threeinterviews on the phone, having got used to usingthe digital technology it was so magnificentlymeant to give me since my old skool dictaphonewith micro cassette broke. The o2 shop couldn’tprovide me with a replacement phone, so i boughtthe most basic one they had for a fiver. Then i triedmy luck in a pawn shop and amazingly they had an old skool sony dictaphone that took all my oldmicro cassettes. it cost me a tenner, and put asmile back on my face.

The funny thing was, when my phone died, ihad a hectic schedule that day but didn’t haveanything to tell the time with. i haven’t worn mywatch since the strap broke – just after i got a newbattery for it! and now the battery has gone again.i was subsequently walking around for a wholeday with a travel alarm clock in my pocket. nowthat’s proper old skool!

FOR MORE OF TOM’S OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

© Pa

ul M

owat

t

G-STAR’S PLASTIC-BUSTINGRAW FOR THE OCEANS PROJECT

EFM BYDONRAD DUNCAN

dIreCTory

WWW.mWB-onLIne.Co.uK JULY 2014 | DIRECTORY | 88

BIG sIzes

CasuaLWear

GarmenT sTands sTeamers & Irons

Unit 63 (Sixth Floor) Regent Studios8 Andrews Road, Hackney, London E8 4QNTel: 0207 254 8888 Fax: 0207 254 8889Email: [email protected]

suITs WanTed

To advertise please callsharon on

01484 846069or email

[email protected]

www.gucinari.co.uk

DEDICATED TO STYLE


mWB’s victoria Jackson caught up with Becky french, designer and founder offledging British accessory label marwood, at last month’s London Collections: men, to talk about the importance of Britishmanufacturing, turning a one-man band into asuccessful team and what’s in store for s/s 15.—

WWW.mWB-onLIne.Co.uK JULY 2014 | 90

LasT orders WITh...BeCKy frenCh

D/O/B: 27.04.81Place of birth: Somerset, England Lives now: Devon and LondonTwitter: @marwoodlondonWebsite: www.marwoodlondon.co.uk

What does s/s 15 have in store for marwood interms of product?We are showcasing a tight edit of the s/s 15accessories, and have woven, lace and a newcategory of printed silks and cottons for neckwear.spring/summer is not a big season for marwood,but we wanted to change this by creating fabricsthat worked with the weather and offer realisticoptions for summer neckwear beyond the tie.

What developments do you have plannedmoving into the new season? There has been a lot of work going into thebusiness direction in the last 6-9 months.marwood won a prize in December with the CFEfor an investment pitch. it was the result of monthsof hard work, clarifying the direction we want togo in. This has been tweaked and refined sincethen and we are about to embark on a focusedplan that will include e-commerce expansion, amarwood store and new product categories overthe coming months and years. We want to evolveand it feels like the right time to embark on that.

Who are your most important markets, apartfrom the domestic uK?Japan and the Us are our biggest markets.marwood sells in Us stores includingbloomingdales and saks and Japanese storesTomorrowland and Edifice. For the new season,we have added more exciting stockists to ourportfolio such as isetan in Japan, as well asopening Ceremony and bergdorf Goodman inthe Us.

Why do you think British manufacturing isseeing such a revival at the moment?i think consumers want to know where thingscome from, and they want to back the makersbehind the products. i think “made in britain” hasbeen overused somewhat but, for marwood, it isimportant, as the product categories we makehave history in Uk manufacturing and are expertsin their field. They stand for traditional, qualitymanufacturing and this explanation on theproducts endorses the price we have to charge.

QuICK-fIre QuesTIons—Favourite film?Too many. Best Sunday film recently wasPoint Break with old-school Swayze. —Biggest vice?Trying to do too much. —What piece of advice would you give toyour 16-year-old self?Don’t start your own business. Kidding. —Three island essentials? Music, canoe, boyfriend. —

how do you find manufacturing in the uK? it’s been a positive experience working closelywith our Uk mills and factories. We only work witha handful at the moment and they all encourageour growth by supporting small runs and allowingus to experiment during sampling stage (whentime allows). i think to encourage a revival it wouldtake a serious commitment towards educatingpeople about the process behind productsalongside training young people to learn newskills and care about the make and finish ofproducts. manufacturing jobs need to becomeappealing and exciting to get new blood in.

What would you say is the biggest challengeyou’ve faced since launching?Taking it from a one-man band to a small team. ihave been lucky to find people who are passionateand share the same work ethic as me, as well asbeing great people to work alongside. The difficultpart is taking marwood from my head andtranslating those ideas and thoughts to involveothers. The general running a business stuff is allnew, so therefore a challenge. it’s all about findingthe right team.


TO BOOK AN APPOINTMENT PLEASE CONTACT JOULES ON T: +44 (0) 1858 435261 E: [email protected]

2015SPR ING SUMMER


Documents

MWB MAGAZINE JULY ISSUE 214