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The Rake magazine Russian edition 02 issue 2014 May-June
Citation preview
02
-
2
01
4
:
Timothy Everest Passaggio Cravatte
Maison Corthay Rolls-Royce
Rake Cover_02.indd 1 29.04.2014 13:21:05
R01 Ad Armani.indd 2 15.04.2014 18:34:45
R01 Ad Armani.indd 3 15.04.2014 18:34:45
RK 02 Cruciani 2-1.indd 2 24.04.2014 19:34:01
www.crucianic.com
RK 02 Cruciani 2-1.indd 3 24.04.2014 19:34:01
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58 Rolls-Royce Chanel
64 - Stefano Ricci
68 Pitti Uomo
76 Gucci
34 ,
6The Rake
Contents.indd 6 4/29/14 11:27 AM
RK02 Audemars.indd 1 15.04.2014 18:34:44
8The Rake
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82 ,
112
78
82
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92 ,
94
102
104
110 Baume & Mercier
112 ,
118
122
126 -
130
136 ,
138 Tods
140
144
155
156
158 VS
160
162
8The Rake
Contents.indd 8 4/29/14 11:27 AM
RK 02 Ad JLC.indd 1 28.04.14 20:00
:
EDITORS Letter.indd 10 4/29/14 11:20 AM
RK 02 Roger Dubuis.indd 1 22.04.2014 18:18:59
, , (1985), (2004) (2005). ,
Esquire, Forbes, TheNew York Times, The NewYorker, LUomo Vogue. The Rake , , , .
- , - . Oh my Dog, -
World of Interiors, AD, - Vogue. The Rake .
. Esquire 19501960- ( ), . - 32 2: Drapers Record, Menswear, Fashion Weekly, International Textiles, Sportswear International, Textile View. Drapers, , , Financial Times, Bespoken The Rake. , .
- Conde Nast Traveller www.vogue.ru -. - , ,
, .. , - . The Rake - - , .
12The Rake
: M
artin
Oro
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,
eric
mus
grav
e.co
.uk
Contributors.indd 12 4/29/14 11:13 AM
RK 02 MCT.indd 1 28.04.14 19:53
-
-
-
-
.: +7 (495) 797 4561
Smartpixels
Editor-in-chiefAlexander Rymkevich
Art directorVarvara Alay
Managing editorIrina Lobacheva
Photo editorAnastasia Khavzhu
Translation editorDmitry Buzadzhi
Editor-at-large at watch sectionAlexei Kutkovoi
ProofreaderIrina Isaeva
Proof editorAndrey Tsybulsky
Editorial assistantElena Panina [email protected]
The magazines reporter in France and MonacoHelena Couf n-Chernoff
PublisherDenis Peshkov
Brand ManagerYulia Sergunina [email protected]
Head of advertisingMaria Egorova [email protected]
Advertising departmentTel.: +7 (495) 797 4561
Print coordinator for advertisingNatalia Kukushkina
Distribution departmentTatyana Lemann
Prepress productionSmartpixels
:
, , -, , , , , , , , , , , , ,
, , , , ,
14The Rake
Masthead.indd 14 4/29/14 11:28 AM
RK 01 Raschini.indd 1 23.04.2014 12:08:03
127018, . , . , . 3, . 4 Hubert Burda Media : +7 (495) 797 45 60 : +7 (495) 797 45 99 e-mail: [email protected]
THE RAKE 77-46543 , - -9 2011 . 18 .
Revolution International Limited
10th Floor, Raf es Tower, 19 Cybercity, Ebene, MauritiusTel: +230 404 6000, Fax: +230 468 1600
Revolution Press Pte Ltd211 Henderson Road #07-03 Singapore 159552 Tel: +65 6535 0079Managing Director Dr Bruce [email protected]
* 52 000 *
. .
Burda Publishing House 3/4 Polkovaya ulitsa, Moscow, 127018Hubert Burda Media enterpriseTel.: +7 (495) 797 4560 Fax: +7 (495) 797 4599 E-mail: [email protected]
The Rake Russian EditionRegistration certi cate for a mass medium (print publication) PI FS77-46543 issued bytheFederal Service for Supervision in the Sphere of Telecom, Information Technologies andMass Communications on September 9, 2011. This information product is inappropriate forchildren below 18 years of age.
The magazine is published in Russia by permission of Revolution International Limited
10th Floor, Raf es Tower, 19 Cybercity, Ebene, MauritiusTel: +230 404 6000, Fax: +230 468 1600
Revolution Press Pte Ltd211 Henderson Road #07-03 Singapore 159552 Tel: +65 6535 0079Managing Director Dr Bruce [email protected]
PrintingPrinting House City Print
Circulation* up to 52 000 copies*print run
No texts or photographs in this magazine may bereprinted or reproduced by any means withoutwritten permission from the publisher. Views expressed by the authors may not necessarily re ect those of the publisher.
International Advertising SalesRepresentatives
Burda International
Italy Mariolina Siclari, International Advertising Sales Director T. +39 02 91 32 34 66 [email protected]
Burda Community Network
Germany Vanessa Noetzel T. +49 89 9250 [email protected]
Michael Neuwirth T. +49 89 9250 [email protected]
Austria/SwitzerlandGoran Vukota T. +41 44 81 02 146 [email protected]
UK/Ireland Jeannine Soeldner T. +44 20 3440 5832 [email protected]
France/Luxembourg Marion Badolle-Feick T. +33 1 72 71 25 24, [email protected]
USA/Canada/Mexico Salvatore Zammuto T. +1 212 884 48 24 [email protected]
:
: Del na Blaquier Figueras
18+
16The Rake
Masthead.indd 16 4/29/14 2:47 PM
RK02 Lalique Parfums.indd 1 29.04.14 15:35
Panerai .
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18The Rake
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Pan
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News.indd 18 4/29/14 11:20 AM
www.therakeonline.ru , ,
The Rake.
18+
Podpiska.indd 19 4/29/14 12:21 PM
143 5
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1_ Alfa Romeo Alfa Romeo . Gulietta JTDM2 2 150 /. MiTo. AlfaRomeo 4, - 240 / Alfa TCT Race. - 4,5 , 258/.
2_Moynat Jaguar - Moynat LVMH.
-, Jaguar F-Type.
3_4_Louis Vuitton BMW Louis Vuitton made-to-measure BMW i8. , , , .
5_Ralph Lauren Black Safari, - , . - - .
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20The Rake
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28The Rake
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32The Rake
Robert_Redfort.indd 32 4/28/14 8:55 PM
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Robert_Redfort.indd 33 4/28/14 8:55 PM
34The Rake
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Cover Story.indd 34 4/29/14 11:16 AM
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Cover Story.indd 35 4/29/14 11:16 AM
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36The Rake
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Cover Story.indd 36 4/29/14 11:16 AM
1_ Ralph Lauren Polo Modern Reserve, , 2009
2_ Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic, -, 2010
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38The Rake
Cover Story.indd 38 4/29/14 11:17 AM
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Cover Story.indd 39 4/29/14 11:17 AM
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40The Rake
Cover Story.indd 40 4/29/14 11:17 AM
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42The Rake
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44The Rake
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Opener_Atelie.indd 46 4/28/14 5:53 PM
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Opener_Atelie.indd 47 4/28/14 5:54 PM
48The Rake
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50The Rake
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52The Rake
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54The Rake
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Passagio Cravatte.indd 54 4/29/14 2:50 PM
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1970 , . -
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Passagio Cravatte.indd 55 4/29/14 2:50 PM
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56The Rake
PierreCorthay.indd 56 4/28/14 6:03 PM
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Corthay Ostojenka Bespoke.
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PierreCorthay.indd 57 4/28/14 6:03 PM
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Rolls Royce-1.indd 58 4/29/14 11:29 AM
MADETOMEASURE
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Rolls Royce-1.indd 59 4/29/14 11:29 AM
60The Rake
: B
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Rolls Royce-1.indd 60 4/28/14 6:05 PM
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Rolls Royce-1.indd 61 4/29/14 11:29 AM
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Opener_Academy.indd 62 4/28/14 6:02 PM
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64The Rake
Stefano Ricci.indd 64 4/29/14 11:10 AM
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66The Rake
Stefano Ricci.indd 66 4/28/14 5:51 PM
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PITTI_UOMO.indd 68 4/29/14 2:37 PM
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70The Rake
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72The Rake
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PITTI_UOMO.indd 72 4/28/14 8:23 PM
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74The Rake
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PITTI_UOMO.indd 75 4/29/14 2:37 PM
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76The Rake
Gucci.indd 76 4/28/14 5:45 PM
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made-to-measure. 27 ( -, - ). , , , - ( , , ) . - - . , , , . 80 - 178 25 , Gucci, . , , -, -, , -, made-to-measure Gucci .
3
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Gucci.indd 77 4/28/14 9:03 PM
, .
78The Rake
Milanskaya_petlica.indd 78 4/28/14 6:01 PM
, , . - , . -
, , , . , - . - .
, - - -. - , ,
. - . boutonnire Milanaise, . , , , .
, . , -, , . -
1_- , Camps de Luca; , Mariano Rubinacci; , Chester Barrie
2_ Camps de Luca,
3_
4_
1
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Milanskaya_petlica.indd 79 4/29/14 11:21 AM
, , . - . - , - , . , .
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1
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80The Rake
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Milanskaya_petlica.indd 80 4/29/14 11:21 AM
. , , 80 , - -. , - - , : - .
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, - , .
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, XX - , - , . - , - - VII, , , , - , .
, - . , , . , - . , :
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3_ , Cifonelli; , Boss Selection; , Charvet; , Mariano Rubinacci
4_ Chittleborough & Morgan
5_ , - , NH Sartoria
4
5
81 -
Milanskaya_petlica.indd 81 4/29/14 11:21 AM
TomFord ,
Glasses.indd 82 4/29/14 11:23 AM
1_2_ - Bottega Veneta
, 1965 . -? , (-, ) ? : 1965- , . - - Ray-Ban Wayfarer - , - . , , , - , , . -, , , , .
,
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. , , , , - . - . , -, , -, , -, , , ,
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Glasses.indd 83 4/29/14 11:23 AM
1_ Ombres et Lumires, Giorgio Armani
2_ , RalphVaessen
, 1965
, . , XIII - . - , XVI . - . 1780 - , XIX , , , - .
- , 1800 , , , , . - , XX . 30- -
84The Rake
2
1
Glasses.indd 84 4/29/14 3:45 PM
. - Perivist, - , . 1937 Bausch & Lomb , - . -.
40- - , ( ); , , -- ( ). 1964 , , - . , - - ( ) . - . - - . , : , .
- -. Bausch & Lomb Ray Ban
1_ Boudewijn , Ralph Vaessen
2_3_ Panorama , Tarian
4_ , Alain Mikli
85 -
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SW DIXEY & SON
,
1777 .
3
4
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Glasses.indd 85 4/29/14 3:45 PM
1_2_ - Frames ofLife,Giorgio Armani
3_ ,Tarian
4_ , Emporio Armani
1_2_ - Frames ofLife,Giorgio Armani
3 T i
1
2
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, , - . -, : -, , , .
, -, -. , . , , - , , , , -
, -. Town & Country, , , . - ,
86The Rake
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, T
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Com
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3
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Glasses.indd 86 4/28/14 6:56 PM
, Italia Independent, ,
: . : , - - , - . , , - - .
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-, , - - . , : , -. , - , , ,
. , , , , - : ; - -, , . : . , - . , , .
1_ Persol - - . Film Noir
2_ Italia Independent Larusmiani
87 -
1
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Glasses.indd 87 4/29/14 3:26 PM
, , , , ,
.
88The Rake
Congo.indd 88 4/29/14 2:48 PM
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, , . , . , - , . , . , - - , - , . , , , , - .
90The Rake
Congo.indd 90 4/29/14 11:06 AM
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91
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- , - -. , , 60-. -, -, , , .
, . , - . - Chevrolet Camaro, , Ray-Ban Stetson -. , . ,
.
.
, . , ,
92The Rake
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Kino_samurai.indd 92 4/28/14 6:04 PM
, , , -- . : , - . : , , - . -, -: , . - - , .
, - -. - , : , -, . Baume & Mercier . - -
, (, -, ). ( , Burberrys Aquascutum). - - , , 60- - , : , . -- , - - , ? , ?
. ; , .
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93 -
Kino_samurai.indd 93 4/29/14 11:23 AM
, , Cerruti 1881 Paris; , Burberry Prorsum; , PaulSmith; , Mariano Rubinacci; , Tommy Hil ger; , , The Rake
The Rake
, .
The Rake
SHOOTING.indd 94 4/29/14 11:12 AM
, Dolce & Gabbana; , Burberry Prorsum; , Gieves & Hawkes; , Herms;
, Gucci; , Bottega Veneta
95 -
SHOOTING.indd 95 4/28/14 6:03 PM
, Richard Anderson; - , Etro; , Mariano Rubinacci;
, Tommy Hil ger;
96The Rake
SHOOTING.indd 96 4/28/14 6:03 PM
, , , Alfred Dunhill; , Paul Smith; , -, Mariano Rubinacci
-
SHOOTING.indd 97 4/28/14 6:03 PM
, , , Ralph Lauren Purple Label; - , TheRake
The Rake
SHOOTING.indd 98 4/28/14 6:03 PM
- , Cifonelli; - , Gieves & Hawkes; , Mariano Rubinacci; , Alfred Dunhill;
, The Rake
99 -
SHOOTING.indd 99 4/28/14 6:03 PM
:
-
Fer
rari
Ferrari California T
Opener_Sobranie.indd 100 4/28/14 6:40 PM
102... : 104...
110... : Baume & Mercier 112... :
118... : 122... :
126... 130...
The Rake Lotus C-01, ,
-, , , Sothebys
International Realty .
Opener_Sobranie.indd 101 4/29/14 11:16 AM
, Lotus C-01 - , . - Lotus Cars, , , , . - - , Kodewa, FIA -Lotus LMP2.
V- 1195 3 200 .., - 181 , - , . , Lotus C-01 , , Holzer, . ,
,
- .
, . , , , .
- - Cosmic Motors . , , -. , . LotusC-01 .
, Lotus, - , -, , , , , - : .
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cycl
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Lotus Bike.indd 102 4/28/14 6:05 PM
1 1967 1970
LOTUS 49.
,
103 -
Lotus Bike.indd 103 4/28/14 6:05 PM
,
.
, -
:
-
104The Rake
Cars.indd 104 4/29/14 2:42 PM
Lamborghini , XIX
, , 2+2 - . -, , - 3500 GT 1957 , 5000 GT 1959 Indy 1969 . , - , Maserati Al eri . . - . . TFT- -, .
Maserati ALFIERI
-, 700 . 5,2- - V10 610 .. - , - , . - - . 100 / Huracan 3,2 , 200 / - 9,9 , 325/. - , : Strada, Sport Corsa , , - . , , !
LamborghiniHURACAN LP 610-4
-105
Cars.indd 105 4/29/14 2:42 PM
47 Swarovski, 17 , 30
S-class -. -, , . - , - -, -. , - 12,3- : , Comand Online. . . Magic Body Control, - , , - .
Mercedes-BenzS-CLASS COUPE
Audi TT - - . , , Audi Matrix LED - - . : MMI Audi TT 12,3-- Audi virtual cockpit, . - , - . MMI touch - ( ), , , - .
Audi
, 120 /
106The Rake
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-
Cars.indd 106 4/28/14 5:52 PM
- McLaren : 3,0 100 /, 8,4 200 /, 25,4 300 / 333 / - . , 1300 , . , , - , 75 . - , .
McLaren650S
- , -, , - - 69 20% . - McLaren 650S 30,5 , 100 / 271 .
3,8- 650 ..
-107
Cars.indd 107 4/29/14 11:01 AM
, - : 10,5 100
: Ferrari California T - . - - , 14 -. , 3,8- - V8. 560 .. 7500 / 750 . , , , -, 145 ../, - . 3,6 . 0,2 . , . - California T 316 /.
FerrariCALIFORNIA T
108The Rake
Cars.indd 108 4/28/14 5:52 PM
One:1 . . One:1 - , . - 440 /. 400 / One:1 20 . - . - 6 , , . , - - . , , . , - , - 1371 , , .
Koenigsegg ONE:1
Macan - , -. -, . . - 1821 , - , . , . Sport . - , , .
PorscheMACAN
Macan , :
440 /
109 -
:
-
Cars.indd 109 4/28/14 5:52 PM
Baume & Mercier .
21
110The Rake
:
-
Baume-Mercier.indd 110 4/29/14 10:55 AM
1_2_ , 1892
3_4_Clifton 1892 Flying Tourbillon 50
Baume & Mercier. , , -
: 1892. 1892 - Baume & Co. ( ) . 91,9 , - . -, , . Clifton 1892 Flying Tourbillon ValFleurier P591 ( 45,5 ) c 1950- - - 30 .
4
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- Buben&Zorweg.
, - ,
,
, . - ,
.
111 -
Baume-Mercier.indd 111 4/28/14 7:43 PM
21 , , - .
3
112The Rake
Watch-v2.indd 112 4/29/14 11:31 AM
, , - , - Longines.
, . , Longines - - , , . Avigation Oversize Crown . , , - -, , - , , .
Breitling : - . , , , , Chronomat Navitimer. 1984 - , , (- , Navitimer). 30- Chronomat Airborne .
Speake-Marin Spirit Collection Mk II XX - .
. 1950- - , Rolex GMT-Master . , . Rolex GMT-Master II ( ) - - .
1_ Avigation Oversize Crown,Longines
2_ Breitling Chronomat Airborne
3_ - ( ) Rolex
4_ Speake-Marin -
4
80 (1956)
113 -
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Watch-v2.indd 113 4/29/14 11:31 AM
. -
, . TAG Heuer , , - . , - Carrera, , -. Carrera - Carrera Panamericana, 1950 1954 . , . TAG Heuer CH 80 Carrera. - -, 1960- - Carrera.
Chopard Grand Prix de Monaco Historique, -1, - . Grand Prix de Monaco Historique, - - - .
, , .
, , , , - El Primero 410 Zenith, , , - , 100 , - . BR01-94 B-Rocket Bell & Ross, , , , - .
Hublot - , Classic Fusion Tourbillon Skull . , ( -), - .
1_ - BR01-94 B-Rocket, Bell&Ross
2_ Zenith El Primero 410
3_Chopard Grand Prix de Monaco Historique -
4_ Carrera c CH80
5_ Hublot Classic Fusion Tourbillon Skull ,
1
114The Rake
:
-
, M
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Evan
s/
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, v
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/Fot
olia
.com
,
-
Watch-v2.indd 114 4/29/14 11:31 AM
23
4
5
115 -
Watch-v2.indd 115 4/29/14 11:31 AM
31
, -
. -, . - , - . Cartier Calibre de Cartier, ( 300 ).
Ulysse Nardin, , - Marine Diver, 200 300 -. .
Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback Blancpain 60- , .
IWC - Aquatimer. - , Aquatimer 2000, , 300 . -
1_Marine Diver Ulysse Nardin 300
2_ Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback , Blancpain
3_ Corum Admirals Cup AC-One 45 Tides 300
4_ Aquatimer IWC c 2
5_ Calibre de Cartier
3
116The Rake
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, Dio
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ia, A
KG
/Eas
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s
2
Watch-v2.indd 116 4/29/14 11:31 AM
45
: -, 60-- , . , .
Corum Admirals Cup AC-One 45 Tides: , -. - : , , . , , , .
4
(1965)
117 -
117
Watch-v2.indd 117 4/29/14 11:31 AM
The Rake .
- ( Sothebys International Realty ) . Ritz, Saint James Park Hyatt. , , , , - , . , .
, - -, , , . . - -, , , . - , , .
, , - , -. - , . - . - , ,
118The Rake
:
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: L
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Car
by, H
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n-C
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off
AlexanderKraft.indd 118 4/29/14 2:36 PM
-
AlexanderKraft.indd 119 4/29/14 2:36 PM
- , , , . -, , -, . - , , - , -, .
- , . -, , - , , Elephants Breath - Farrow & Ball. - , - , , - , , . - - 1920- .
. - , , , - XIX , () (). - III (, , ) - . , (-- ) XV , , Ralph Lauren Home Collection.
- , - . , .
1_ III
2_ Hastens ,
3_
4_ XIX
1
2
3
4
120The Rake
: L
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Car
by, H
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a C
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off
AlexanderKraft.indd 120 4/28/14 6:52 PM
1_ 1963
2_ , 1840
3_
4_ Cartier, 1900
, - -, , , , -- . , , - XVIII - , - 1963 - .
, . - , - . , , , .
1 2
3
4
121 -
AlexanderKraft.indd 121 4/28/14 6:52 PM
, ,
, .
.
122The Rake
Card-Holders.indd 122 4/29/14 2:00 PM
20- , - , , - . -, - . , . , , . - . - , , . , - . , , :
. -, , , .
1840- , - . - , , , , , , - , , , . - , -. , . , , -
2
1 3
1_ - , , XX . Christies $1500
2_ -. Christies 8750
3_ - - . Faberge, -, 18991903. 2009 Sothebys 181 250
123 -
: H
L &
HL
Ant
iqui
ties,
Chr
istie
's Im
ages
, Sot
heby
s
Card-Holders.indd 123 4/29/14 10:43 AM
, . . -, , , , . XIX , , - . , - , , . , - - ( - , , , ). - , -, :
, . in propria persona, - . - , , - , , .
- , , . - , . - , HL&HL Antiquities. 2009
1
3
2
124The Rake
: H
L &
HL
Ant
iqui
ties,
Chr
istie
s Im
ages
, Sw
orde
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Card-Holders.indd 124 4/29/14 10:43 AM
, , Sothebys 181250. Christies - 2012 - Cartier $16250. - -. , , - . , - , - , .
, . ,
,
, - , . XIX , , - ,
,
. ,
,
, .
541_ - , , XIX . 325www.hlandhlantiquities.com
2_ . 3000
3_ , - - , 1894 . 1stdibs
4_ - , , XIX. Sworders 920
5_ . , . Christies $4375
(2013)
125 -
:
Card-Holders.indd 125 4/29/14 10:43 AM
Art Basel , , .
19 22 - Art-Basel 2014, , - -
126The Rake
126The Rake
Tefaf.indd 126 4/28/14 7:42 PM
Time Machine, Art Basel Cristina Guerra, 20 -
, 19501970-. , -, - . , . , -, - . -, , . , . - .
GAGOSIAN GALLERY
16 -
-
.
DAVID ZWIRNER GALLERY
,
.
THE PACE GALLERY
,
,
, ,
.
HOUSER & WIRTH
-
.
WHITE CUBE
,
, -:
, ,
, , .
Art Basel
- Los Carpinteros. Edi cio de nmeros uno - Art Basel - Sean Kelly. - . . , - , , , , . - . - - .
127 -
:
-
Art
Bas
el,
C
rist
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Gue
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CABINET DE CURIOCITS
Tefaf.indd 127 4/29/14 11:09 AM
: ARTCURIAL, , 18
1980- - , Avane-Scene . , - , -, , . , - - XIX ( 80120 .). , 1988 (45.), - Trvise 1990 , 20 - (1015 .). -, - - , - .
: CHRISTIES, -, 6 , 18
400 -
1 - TheRake , .
2
3
128The Rake
Tefaf.indd 128 4/28/14 5:46 PM
4 $50 . 1870-, -. ($2535 .) - ( $315.) - . . ( $35 .) ; - , ($80120 .) - XVI ($4060.); , ( ).
MAXIM BOKSER, , 3
, - . - , , , - . - , , - , , . - , - , - , , , , -, . 50010 .
SOTHEBYS, -, 4
, , - , -. 50-: - Beatles In His Own Write ( -), . , -, , , . 100 89 $500. , A Spaniard in the Works, 1965 ( ), ($5070.) TheSingularge Experience of Miss Anne Duffi eld ( ).
5
1_ (2010),
2_ Trvise (1990),
3_ (1857)
4_ (2010),
5_
129 -
: C
hris
tie's
Imag
es, S
othe
by's,
Max
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okse
rCABINET DE CURIOCITS
Tefaf.indd 129 4/28/14 5:46 PM
, .
130
Ravazzolo
,
.
Ravazzolo.
Giorgio Armani
.
Raschini .
130The Rake
:
-
Raschini
Cruciani
Paul Smith
.
Paul Smith
Invest.indd 130 4/28/14 8:20 PM
Tods , . Tods .
Corneliani - .
Tom Ford
.
Ralph Lauren -
.
Larusmiani -
.
Uomo Collezioni .
Loewe -
.
131 -
T F d
Invest.indd 131 4/29/14 11:24 AM
Brioni
: , ,
.
Santoni .
Ermenegildo Zegna ,
.
Bally
.
Ermenegildo Zegna -
,
.
Corneliani
,
.
Robert Tateossian
.
Gucci - .
Louis Vuitton, -
,
iPad. , ,
.
132The Rake
:
-
C li i
Invest.indd 132 4/28/14 8:20 PM
Ralph Lauren
.
Gucci , ,
, .
Corneliani c
.
Brunello Cucinelli . , , , , .
Santoni
,
.
133 -
Bottega Veneta
Gucci
Invest.indd 133 4/28/14 8:20 PM
:
-
Fou
r Sea
sons
Percorso Four Seasons -
Opener_Conspekt.indd 134 4/28/14 6:39 PM
136..., 138... 139...
140... 144... :
148...
The Rake : , ,
, , .
Opener_Conspekt.indd 135 4/29/14 11:17 AM
T , -. , 40 - --, - -
, -. -, (2007), - - , Mr.Rorter, , .
- House of Waris, - - , - Illesteva - A.P.C. ,
, , House of Waris Palazzo Gritti.
- , .
The Luxury Collection, House of Waris Rare - Palazzo Gritti -. 14 40 . - . Haider Ackerman, Asprey, Alma Allen, Byredo, - De na Delettrez, Mrs. John L.Strong, Nardi, , , . -, cabinet de curiosities -, . , , , - , - - . , , : , , - Smythson Panama Moleskine, , iPod, - .
136The Rake
: H
ouse
of W
aris
HouseofWaris.indd 136 4/28/14 6:58 PM
GA. NAM IS DIS NE NITAS QUISQUAM DIS ES AD
QUISQUAMET QUE MI, SANDIOSAM ESTIORE RUMQUIA
SAM EATEM NESEQUIS CON CUS ANTO VOLORIA CUPTIOR
ESTRUM ET ALICIPS ANDENIA VITIO DOLORUM QUIDEBIS
ACCUM
, The Luxury Collection House of Waris Rare . - . House ofWaris
137 -
HouseofWaris.indd 137 4/28/14 5:59 PM
41
2 3
Tods - JP Club.
1_J.P Club -.
2_3_ J.P. Club Tods via Spiga, 22
4_ Tods
J.P.Club - , - , - Tods -.
J.P.Club - . - - , - , - Tods . , , . - . - J.P.Tods, - 1979 .
138The Rake
:
-
, A
ndy
Julia
/Par
isia
n G
entle
man
Boutiques and Lorenzi.indd 138 4/29/14 10:59 AM
- -. Ign. Joseph . , - -, , - : - , . - - The Rake .
, - , ?
,
, , .
, , , -. -, -
.
21
3
The Rake .
Hans Allde
1949 , . - , -. : ErmenegildoZegna, Corneliani, Belvest ( ), Luigi Borrelli, Churchs . -. , Hans Allde.www.hansallde.se
Maison Degand
. - . Brioni Kiton, Boglioli Lardini, Ballantyne Fedeli, Borrelli, Fray, Edward Green,Heschung, Santoni, Corthay. , Maison Degand . - , . www.degand.be
Mller & Mller
, , , . Mller & Mller, . . Mller & Mller 600. Alden, Hackett, Barba, IGN. Joseph, Boglioli, Kiton, Brunello Cucinelli, Loro Piana.www.moellerundmoeller.com
139 -
Boutiques and Lorenzi.indd 139 4/29/14 10:59 AM
, , The Rake .
,
- George V, . XVII XVIII-. 50 000 ; , . - . , ? George V . -, , , Le Cinq ? - . , - ? - , -- , , . George V , , - . Herms? Chanel ? : ? , - , , George V - , . : , , , , , - . www.fourseasons.com
Four Seasons George V
1
140The Rake
:
-
Hotels.indd 140 4/29/14 2:46 PM
1_ - FourSeasons
2_9000 - George V , 1.
3_5_ 244 -,
4_ Le Bar 2 3
5
4
141 -
Hotels.indd 141 4/29/14 2:46 PM
, , - . , - St. Regis, , -. , - . St. Regis - : 81 19 , Bottega Veneta, - . - - , ,
St. Regis
, , - .
St. Regis , , - , , . , - , - Iriduium Spa Clarins, - Winter Garden - - ( Michelin Da Caino). www.stregis orence.com
1_
2_- St. Regis
3_
1
3
2
142The Rake
:
-
Hotels.indd 142 4/28/14 5:47 PM
, - , - ( --), - . , , - , - XIV . , - : , -, 15- - . -
Bulgari
- , - . The Bulgari Suit, 120- 90- . , - Bulgari Spa , Espa. - - . - , - Bulgari . , , . www.bulgarihotels.com
1_ -
2_4_ The Bulgari Suit
3_
1
2
3
4
-
Hotels.indd 143 4/29/14 11:25 AM
3 : - . . . -
. , , , , - .
. - . , -. , . Sketch 2003 - , , - - , , , . Percorso Four Seasons -
. , - - - , .
- - , , - . Wine Religion - -, . , , Wine Spectator, , .
- . , Zodiac - , - . -
.The Rake .
(CONDE NAST TRAVELLER)
1
1
144The Rake
:
-
Restaurants.indd 144 4/29/14 3:28 PM
1_4_5_ , , -
2_3_ 70- , ,
32
5
4
145 -
Restaurants.indd 145 4/29/14 11:13 AM
( S.Pellegrino Cooking Cup 2013) - , , , . - Zodiac - , . - , . , - , ? , , , . , .
-, , - 70-. , -, - , . , - , .
, , - - , , , . - , ( ) - . , - . , -, , , - .
- . , - , - , : , , , . , . , , -, ,
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146The Rake
Restaurants.indd 146 4/29/14 2:33 PM
43
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-, ! , , , . ( - ) . , -, , . - , , : , , , -, . 10 ! : - , . , , . , .
2
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Restaurants.indd 147 4/29/14 2:33 PM
The Rake
148The Rake
Calendar.indd 148 4/29/14 11:31 AM
dDenman and Goddard (b) 1853 -: . - , , , . Regent -.
: 46 : 46 (2 ) : 4300 . +7 343 379 39 12
aAttilio Roncaccia (b) , , , ,
: 20 , 15 : 12 : 3000,
350 . +39 06 699 07 80
bBerluti (b)
: : 6 : 300 . . . +7 495 626 02 16
cClub Bespoke (mtm), , , St.ErasmoCinque
: 2325 , 2022 : 7 : 2100,
2700 . +7 495 226 96 33
Maison Corthay Ostojenka Bespoke (b, mto)
: :
mto 3 (1 ), bespoke 6 (2 )
: mto 65 . ., bespoke 3500
. +7 495 988 68 58
fFinamore 1925 Napoli (b, mtm)
: : 810 : 12 . . . +7 495 690 38 88
Feru (b), , , ,
: : 3
(12) : 5000 . +7 495 626 02 02
149 -
:
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Calendar.indd 149 4/29/14 11:31 AM
JJohn Lobb Paris (b, mto) -
: bespoke 2022 :
bespoke 6 : bespoke 7000 + 1000 -
( ) . +7 495 620 31 14
iInzerillo (mtm), , , , . Luigi Borelli (b)
: - 1718 , 1821
: 11,5 (1 ) : 1200, 950,
250, 150 . +39 091 51 89 98
LLouis Purple (mtm), , , ,
: : 4 (1 ) : 750, 160,
675 . +7 499 240 10 01
mMario Herzog (b) ,
: 1416 , 46 : 810
(12 ) : 2500 + 500
( ) . +7 903 131 68 18
oOstojenka Bespoke (b), , , ,,
: : 2 : 130 . .,
18 . . . +7 495 988 68 58
pPatrick Hellmann (mtm, mto), , , ,
: : 2 : 150 . . . +7 985 997 74 34
rRaschini (b, mtm) Raschini , . - , bespoke. , , , , , ,
: : 1,52
(23 ) : 98 . .,
72 . ., 15 . . . +7 495 662 64 85
150The Rake
Calendar.indd 150 4/29/14 11:31 AM
sSavile House by Scabal (mtm, mto), , , , Ambrionix
: : 35 (1 ) : 1650 ()/
3500 () . +7 925 131 0 111
Stefano Ricci (mtm), , , , , , ,
: : 814 : 300 . . . +7 495 651 65 67
THE RAKE , , ,
. : b bespoke, mto made to order, mtm made to measure (su misura).
, bespoke: 1) ; 2) () 12-15 , ; 3)
; 4) , . Savile Row Bespoke Association British Committee of the International Federation of Master Tailors.
Stowers Bespoke (b) bespoke - Gieves & Hawkes 2006 . Stowers Bespoke - - , (, , ). - Lotte . , , , , (, , )
: 1925 , 2329 :
23 (23 ) : 5000 . +44 7894 44 47 39
Saint Crispins (b, mtm, mto)
: : 35 : mto 60 .,
b 90 . . . +7 495 690 38 88
Sartoria Ripense (b), , , . Barba
: 2224 , : 2 : 2900 . +39 06 323 37 27, +7 495 648 42 30
Sartoria San Lazzaro (mtm), , ,
: : 11,5 : 1500 . +39 329 626 96 90
tTurnbull & Asser (mtm), ,
: : 12 (1 ) : 16 . . . +7 495 662 46 64
uUomo Collezioni (mtm), ,
: : 46 : 99 .,
12 . . .+7 495 937 21 44
151 -
:
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Calendar.indd 151 4/29/14 11:31 AM
: S
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Opener_Grooming.indd 152 4/28/14 9:04 PM
154... : ,
156... : Cedes Milano
158... :
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Opener_Grooming.indd 153 4/28/14 9:04 PM
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154The Rake
:
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Beauty.indd 154 4/29/14 11:12 AM
4321 5
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155 -
Beauty.indd 155 4/29/14 11:12 AM
, Cedes , .
Made in Italy - . -, , , , -: .
Cedes Milano -. 2009 , 30 . Cedes , c, . - , , - , , , , , , , , . : - , , - , , , , , , - , . -, , . , , -, .
2
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156The Rake
Cedes_.indd 156 4/29/14 11:03 AM
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Cedes_.indd 157 4/29/14 11:03 AM
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1
2003- , - Dior, -
. - - Hermessence ( 11), . 2007 - . - Les Exclusifs de Chanel .
, , . - - . - .
Hermessence. , - . The New Yorker, , - Hermessence. - -, .
158The Rake
:
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Perfume.indd 158 4/28/14 9:00 PM
1_pice Marine, 11-, Hermessence
2_Viola Essenziale, Vendemmia Bianco di Carrara Tuscan Soul, SalvatoreFerragamo3_ LAtelier de Givenchy
4_ Parfumeur Cologne Royale, Christian Dior5_ LesExclusifs de Chanel
2
4
3
5
Hermessence - . -, , , , . , , Epice Marine , - . : , -, - . - .
Chanel 2007- : , . -, - , -. Givnchy Ferragamo -. Ferragamo Quintessential Collection , : , - , , ... Tuscan Soul. LAtelier de Givenchy : 7 , , - . , , Nroli Originel, ...
159 -
Perfume.indd 159 4/29/14 11:33 AM
Bally ., 10, . (495) 241-39-62; ., 8, , . (495) 544-54-02; 66- , , . (495) 981-90-38
Bottega Veneta, . , 2, . 8-800-500-80-00; -, 3, . (495) 933-59-30; , -, 31, . (495) 933 3035; Luxury Village, 8- - ., . (495) 225-88-62
Brioni, . , 2, . 8-800-500-80-00; , -, 31, . (495) 933-30-36; -, 7, . (495) 933-33-87; Luxury Village, 8- - ., . (495) 225-88-56; - , . , 2, . (495) 941-84-06
Brunello Cucinelli ., 11, . (495) 785-61-79; , -, 48, 2- , . (499) 951-17-51; , ., . 3, . (499) 951-17-51; , 66- , . (495) 646-98-15
Corneliani , 19, . (495) 695-42-54; ., 3, , 1, . (495) 620-32-56; , 66- , . (495) 727-44-86
Cruciani, . , 2, . 8-800-500-80-00; -, ., 2/1, . (495) 605-71-00; -, 8, . (495) 413-32-34; - Shidlovskiy, ., 11, . (495) 245-02-03 ( )
Dolce & Gabbana: , . , 2, . 8-800-500-80-00; -, 8, . (495) 933-33-76; , -, 31, . (495) 933-30-37; Luxury Village, 8- - ., . (495) 225-88-50; .-: , ..-, 21-23, . (812) 648-08-48
Ermenegildo Zegna, . , 2, . 8-800-500-80-00; , 66- , . (495) 933-73-54; -, 1/3, . (495) 933-33-72; Luxury Village, 8- - ., . (495) 225-88-54; , -, 31, . (495) 933-30-33
Giorgio Armani, . , 2, . 8-800-500-80-00; , 2, . (495) 933-33-71; Luxury Village, 8- -., . (495) 225-88-52
Gucci ., 6, . (495) 933-33-82; -, 31, . (495) 933-30-34; , . , 2, . 8-800-500-80-00
IGN Joseph. (903) 124-02-50, www.ign-joseph.com
Larusmiani , , 66- , . (495) 727-24-92; . , 22, . (495) 690-56-63
Louis Vuitton, ., 3, . (495) 790-73-01; ., 10/18, . (495) 933-35-30
Paul Smith, ., 3, . (495) 620-32-05
Ralph Lauren: , . , 2, . 8-800-500-80-00; -, 1, . (495) 933-33-84; - Luxury Village, 8- - ., . (495) 225-88-84; , -, 31, . (495) 933-31-27; .-: , . . , 21-23, . (812) 648-08-48
Ralph Vaessen, . , 2, . 8-800-500-80-00
Raschini -, 31, . (495) 543-91-08; , . , 10, . (495) 662-64-85
Ravazzolo , 66- , . (495) 727-41-60; , ., 2/1, . (495) 605-71-00; - -, 8, . (495) 413-32-34
Robert Tateossian, . , 2, . 8-800-500-80-00
Santoni , 66- , . (495) 727-24-25; . , 19, . 1, . (495) 625-64-91; , . , 2, . 8-800-500-80-00
Stefano Ricci: , . , 15/1, . 1, . (495) 651-65-67; , 20/5, . 1, . (495) 629-22-36;.-: Four Seasons, 1- -, . (812) 339-80-37
Tods: , . , 2, . 8-800-500-80-00; -, 1, . (495) 933-33-84; - Luxury Village, 8- - ., . (495) 225-88-84; , 66- , . (495) 933-73-54;.-: , . . -, 21-23, . (812) 648-08-48
Tom Ford: -, 4, . (495) 933-33-82; , -, 31, . (495) 933-30-32; Luxury Village, 8- - ., . (495) 225-88-94;.-: , . . -, 21-23, . (812) 648-08-48
Uomo Collezioni: , 44, . (495) 937-21-44; . , 23, . (495) 937-45-75; - -, 2/1 (Radisson Royal Hotel), . (495) 229-83-25; -, 18, . (495) 933-61-40; -, 69, . (495) 937-77-89;.-: ./. ., 24, . (812) 242-66-20
Audemars Piguet Carillon, -, 48, , . (495) 662-38-75; Cassaforte, ., 14, . (495) 411-76-54; Sublime by Bosco, ., 3, , . (495) 620-33-11; Sublime by Bosco, , 19, -, . (495) 543-98-79; Da Vinci, ., 3/5, - , . (495) 937-80-89; Eurotime, -, 2, . (495) 625-26-21;
18 , --, . , 35, . (863) 250-11-11; Audemars Piguet, , . , 74, . (343) 215-60-03
Baume & Mercier Sublime by Bosco, ., 3, , . (495) 620-33-11, 620-33-90
Bell & Ross, . , 2, Bell & Ross, . 8-800-500-80-00
Blancpain , . , 10, . (495) 621-29-37
Breitling. , 68/70, . (495) 988-96-25; . Mercury
Cartier Cartier, . , 5, . (495) 510-50-60; ., 3, , 1- , . (495) 795-03-40; -, 48, , . (495) 662-44-00; . , 19, . (495) 937-90-40; Sublime by Bosco, , . , 19, . (495) 695-42-54
Chopard. Mercury
CorumCarillon, -, 48, , . (495) 662-38-75; Da Vinci, , ., 3/5, . (495) 937-80-89; - , . , 10, . (495) 721-91-18
Hublot . Mercury
IWC. , 5, , . (495) 660-18-68
Jaeger-LeCoultre Jaeger-LeCoultre, - ., 14, . (495) 980-90-48; Cassaforte, ., 14, . (495) 411-76-54; , . , 36, . (495) 690-74-70; - Marriott Royal, . , 11/20, . (495) 937-10-78; Da Vinci, , ., 3/5, . (495) 937-80-89; Sublime by Bosco, ., 3, , . (495) 620-33-11, 620-33-90; Sublime by Bosco, , . , 19, . (495) 695-42-54
160The Rake
Adresses.indd 160 4/29/14 10:49 AM
LES MENUS PAR PIERRE GAGNAIRE
Les Menus Lotte . , , 2009
Sketch,
, -. Michelin -
. .
PGA
NATIONAL RUSSIA
- .
(-72) 6750
,
PGA . 9- -
-36, , -.
The Rake , .
Ararat Park Hyatt, . , 4, . (495) 783-12-34
D-Hotel MarisDatca Yolu 35 Km, Hisaronu Mevkii, 48700 Hisarn, Turkeywww.dhotel.com.tr
Gran Melia RomeVia del Gianicolo, 3, 00165 Romewww.melia.com
Lotte Hotel Moscow ., 8, . 2, . (495) 745-10-00www.lottehotel.ru
Nikolskaya Kempinski Hotel, . , 12, . (495) 967-77-76
Raff House , . . , 25, . (495) 726-55-45www.raffhouse.com
The Ritz-Carlton . , 3, . (495) 225-88-88www.ritzcarltonmoscow.ru
Rolls-Royce Motor Car Moscow ., 2/1, . (495) 785-11-66
Longines , ., 3/5, . (495) 775-85-43, Sublime by Bosco, ., 3, , . (495) 620-33-11
Of cine Panerai . , 5, . (495) 662-75-76; , . , 10, . (495) 721-91-18; Sublime by Bosco, , . , 19, . (495) 695-42-54
Mercury: , . , 2, ublt, . 8-800-500-80-00; ., 7, Mercury, . (495) 933-33-93; -, 31, Mercury, . (495) 933-30-31; Luxury Village, 8- - ., Mercury, . (495) 225-88-70;-: , . . , 21-23, . (812) 648-08-50
Rolex. Mercury
Ulysse Nardin Ulysse Nardin, . -, 19, . (495) 623-90-70; Sublime by Bosco, ., 3, , . (495) 620-33-11, 620-33-90; Sublime by Bosco, , . , 19, . (495) 695-42-54
Tag Heuer ., 14; . , 19, . (495) 699-38-39; Sublime by Bosco, ., 3, , . (495) 620-33-11
Zenith. Mercury
Chanel. , 7, . (495) 783-28-40
Herms Herms, ., 12, . (495) 933-28-33; ., 3, , . (495) 620-30-19
Salvatore Ferragamo ., 16, . (495) 733-92-07
PanpuriCosmotheca , 4- ., 1/8, . 6, . (905) 564-84-13; - -, 2, . (495) 625-94-20; . , 27, . 2, . (905) 564-83-48
Rolls-Royce Motor Car St. Petersburg. , 22, . (812) 305-11-66
- PGA National Russia , 117- - ., , . (495) 587-70-00
AMAN RESORTSwww.amanresorts.com
Aman Canal GrandePalazzo Papadopoli, Calle Tiepolo 1364, Venice
Aman at Summer Palace 1 Gongmenqian Street, Summer Palace, Beijing, PRC 100091
Aman Sveti Stefan Sveti Stefan 85315, Montenegro
Amanzoe Agios Panteleimonas, Kranidi, Argolida, 213 00, Greece
FOUR SEASONSwww.fourseasons.com
Four Seasons SeychellesPetite Anse, Mahe Island, Seychelles
Four Seasons George V Paris31 Avenue George V, 75008 Paris, France
Four Seasons GenevaQuai des Bergues 33, 1201 Genve, Switzerland
Four Seasons - -, 1, . (812) 339-80-00
Four Seasons IstanbulTevkifhane Sokak No. 1, Sultanahmet-Eminn, 34110 Istanbul, Turkey
THE PENINSULAwww.peninsula.com
The Peninsula Bangkok333 Charoennakorn Road, Klongsan, 10600, Thailand
The Peninsula Hong KongSalisbury Rd, Hong Kong
The Peninsula Tokyo1-8-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda, Tokyo 100-0006, Japan
The Peninsula New York700, 5th Ave, New York, NY 10019, United States
161 -
Adresses.indd 161 4/29/14 10:49 AM
.
- -
, , , , , . - : , , . , , , -, , , , , - , -. , . - , . , , - , , - , , - , , , .
, , - , - . , ! . - , , - . , -, . : - - , , , -. , , - . -, , , , . , , .
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162The Rake
: A
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Dogs.indd 162 4/29/14 2:44 PM
RK 02 D-Hotel.indd 1 23.04.2014 15:16:19
RK 02 Cartier.indd 1 24.04.2014 13:44:43
RK02001RK02002 Ad Armani.indd_002RK02003 Ad Armani.indd_003RK02004 Cruciani 2-1.indd_002RK02005 Cruciani 2-1.indd_003RK02006RK02007 Audemars.indd_001RK02008RK02009 Ad JLCRK02010_kRK02011 Roger Dubuis.indd_001RK02012_kRK02013 MCTRK02014RK02015 Raschini.indd_001RK02016_kRK02017 Lalique ParfumsRK02018_kRK02019RK02020_kRK02021 Kommersant.indd_001RK02022RK02023_kRK02024RK02025RK02026RK02027RK02028_kkRK02029_kRK02030RK02031RK02032RK02033RK02034RK02035RK02036RK02037RK02038RK02039RK02040RK02041RK02042RK02043_kRK02044RK02045RK02046RK02047RK02048RK02049RK02050RK02051_kRK02052RK02053RK02054_kRK02055_kRK02056RK02057RK02058_kRK02059_kRK02060RK02061_kRK02062RK02063_kRK02064_kRK02065_kRK02066RK02067RK02068_kRK02069_kRK02070RK02071_kRK02072RK02073_kRK02074_kRK02075_kRK02076RK02077RK02078RK02079_kRK02080_kRK02081_kRK02082_kRK02083_kRK02084_kkRK02085_kkRK02086RK02087_kRK02088_kRK02089_kRK02090_kRK02091_kRK02092RK02093_kRK02094_kRK02095RK02096RK02097RK02098RK02099RK02100RK02101_kRK02102RK02103RK02104_kRK02105_kRK02106RK02107_kRK02108RK02109RK02110_kRK02111RK02112_kRK02113_kRK02114_kRK02115_kRK02116_kRK02117_kRK02118_kRK02119_kRK02120RK02121RK02122_kRK02123RK02124RK02125RK02126RK02127_kRK02128RK02129RK02130RK02131_kRK02132RK02133RK02134RK02135_kRK02136RK02137RK02138_kRK02139_kRK02140_kRK02141_kRK02142RK02143_kRK02144_kRK02145_kRK02146_kRK02147_kRK02148RK02149RK02150RK02151RK02152RK02153RK02154RK02155RK02156_kRK02157_kRK02158RK02159_kRK02160RK02161RK02162_kkRK02163 D-Hotel.indd_001RK02164 Cartier.indd_001