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SFBC 5th
Anniversary Event
A joint seminar named “Current Issues and Outlook of the Cotton Supply-Chain” was organized on 10 May.
Partners included : The HK Cotton Spinners’ Association, the HK Association of Textile Bleachers, Dyers, Printers and Finishers (BDPF), and the Cotton Council International (CCI)
This event updated participants on the cotton market’s supply chain’s outlook in 2013 and 2014, as well as
the subjects of global sourcing pattern and cotton sustainability and its effects on social values.
Along with Lee, Karin Malmstorm, CCI’s China Director, Michael Yee, Senior VP of Global Sourcing of Gap
Inc., Tong Yeung, Director of TPassion Ltd, Pat-Nie Woo, Chairman of the SFBC, Anderson Lee, Vice
Chairman of SFBC and Dr. Gordon Yen, Chairman of The Hong Kong Association of Textile Bleachers,
Dyers, Printers, and Finishers were present as speakers and panel speakers at the event. A total of 124
participants attended this seminar, ranging from different areas of the textile industry.
Malstorm presented and remarked on the inclination of the global cotton textile chain and exclaims that she
anticipates the demand for cotton to be strong and price stability will be seen in 2013. As concluded,
weather conditions and government policies are the key factors in determining how the cotton industry will
flourish in major cotton producing countries. While the panel speakers believe that the cotton industry will
grow strong and steadily in 2013, Lee has commented that sus-
tainable values in the cotton industry could be beneficial to both its
users and environment. Coming from a family business that prac-
ticed sustainable business modules since 1969, and as the Vice
Chairman of the SFBC, Lee brought to the seminar his industry
knowledge, the success stories of the SFBC, and advocated on
increasing the use of sustainable practices across fashion supply
chain. It is widely understood that pursuing cheap labor is no longer
sustainable; therefore, this vision is coming to demand not only, but
including the cotton industry. “There is an increased awareness in the cotton supply chain demanding for
transparency and greater scale of collaboration,” exclaimed Lee, “and I can most certainly see a great
sustainable path in the cotton industry.”
We are living in a more and more transparent world. With the lightning pace
development of the social media, smart phones and 4G mobile networks, images,
messages and comments can be sent around the world from anywhere at a touch of
a button.
What this brings is a level of transparency in the supply chain that has never
been experienced in this world. Consumers from all over the world can know what
is happening behind the scene of any brand's supply chain like never before. With
this "radical transparency", sustainability, environmental and social stewardship
have become hot topics that can no longer be a sideshow, but the main
conversation in our industry.
With this in view, it is great to see that SFBC and its members have started this journey over 5 years
ago, and have laid good foundations to tackle these challenges. Let's continue to be the difference
maker in our industry.
C h a i r m a n ’ s M E S S A G E
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September
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This event was co-organized with Clothing Industry Training Au-
thority (CITA) on 7 June. The seminar was focused on experience
sharing, and Lee spoke specifically on the topic of “Partnership
and Collaboration is the Only Way Forward.”
Lee enthusiastically addresses that “change is always happening,
but the velocity of change is occurring more rapidly,” but reas-
sures audiences that “collaboration will bring us together and we
will tackle it properly. ” He actively presented examples from in-
troduced sustainable technologies from different textile compa-
nies. Lee also introduced the textile industries and SFBC’s col-
laborations with industry groups (European Outdoor Group, Hong
Kong Intimate Apparel Industries’ Association, and Outdoor In-
dustry Association), institutes and government subsidies (CITA,
Hong Kong Design Institute, Hong Kong Polytechnic University,
Hong Kong Productivity Council, and Hong Kong Research Insti-
tute of Textiles and Apparel), and non-governmental organiza-
tions (China Water Risk, Green Peace, Global Reporting Initia-
tive, Global Apparel, Footwear and Textile Initiative, Prime Source
Forum Hong Kong, Redress, Sustainable Apparel Coalition, Tex-
tile Exchange, and WWF), which together raised awareness for
the Low Carbon Manufacturing Programme (LCMP) by first start-
ing with four SFBC members as pilot for the textile sector. Cur-
rently, 61 factories have adopted this pilot with a total of +82,000
staffs participating in LCMP.
Upon the completion of the event, attendees received an elec-
tronic WWF Hong Kong issued Certification of Attendance, as a
token of appreciation for different industry’s recognition of the
LCMP.
Tackling the environmental impact of the fashion
industry, one discarded scrap of fabric at a time.
Al Jazeera English began a new series of their Earthrise in July with a focus on the fashion industry with their first program featuring one of the SFBC members, Redress.
Redress’ commitment to the reduction of textile waste has led them to develop a consumer-facing standard called The R Cert, which verifies that a brand recy-cled their own pre-consumer textile waste into their own recycled textile clothing, and provides a bridge for brands to communicate complex industry pro-cesses with simple, transparent information to en-gage consumers about the benefits of textile recy-cling.
The R Cert provides a traceable supply chain that allows consumers to track their recycled textile cloth-ing’s journey from factory to retail by viewing English and Chinese animations on the www.rcert.org web-site. This business solution catalyzes brands to move closer to closed-loop production by recycling their pre-consumer textile waste into their own recycled textile clothes. The R Cert includes a requirement for factory level suppliers to be GRS (Global Recycle Standard) certified.
In this program, Al Jazeera join Redress to follow the stages of the recycling process for Esprit from the collection of their textile waste through to retail, and Pat-Ni Wo is interviewed about the business viability of this process.
The program can be viewed here:
http://www.aljazeera.com/programmes/earthrise/2013/07/201377101443663886.html
WWF-Hong Kong Quality Assurance Agency’s “Sustaining Your Business in a
Carbon- Constrained Economy” Seminar
Redress on Earthrise
Zurich (hm) On 20 June 2013, the
European Chemicals Agency
ECHA added another six chemi-
cals to their candidate list of Sub-
stances of Very High Concern.
OEKO-TEX® would like to ex-
pressly point out to all companies that the newly added substances are
already part of the current OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 testing criteria.
Each OEKO-TEX® certificate also confirms that the certified products
meet the current requirements of Annex XVII of the REACH Regulation
with regard to restricted substances such as azo dyes or nickel.
The REACH Regulation applies across all industries and places the
textile and clothing industry under the obligation to inform their buyers if
the manufactured products contain SVHC substances in a concentra-
tion of more than 0.1 percent weight by weight. Ever since the REACH
regulation came into effect, the OEKO-TEX® Association has been
paying close attention to the SVHC substances that are identified and
published in the candidate list. If new candidate substances are rele-
vant for textile production and are not yet listed in the criteria catalogue
as independent test parameters, OEKO-TEX® will check if an explicit
inclusion is possible to ensure better comparability with other require-
ments for harmful substances.
The current version of the ECHA candidate list with SVHC substances
can be found on the Internet at http://echa.europa.eu/web/guest/
candidate-list-table.
The current test criteria and limit values of OEKO-TEX® Standard 100
have been published at www.oeko-tex.com/limitvalues (https://
www.oeko-tex.com/en/manufacturers/test_criteria/l...).
The six SVHC substances recently published by ECHA are fully cov-
ered by OEKO-TEX® Standard 100. In particular these are: perfluo-
rooctanoic acid (PFOA) ; 4-nonylphenol, branched and linear, ethox-
ylated; ammonium pentadecafluorooctanoate (APFO); cadmium; cad-
mium oxide; dipentyl phthalate (DPP)
Source from OEKO-TEX® Association
The Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) held a meeting in San Francisco in June 2013. The meeting was very well attend-ed by SFBC members with representa-tives from TAL, HK Non Woven, Li & Fung, amngst others participating in the lively discussions.
Having gone through almost a year of implementation of the Higg Index 1.0, there were a lot of learning points from this, with good discussions around ramp-ing up adoption and the development of verification guidelines going forward.
It is clear that "Collective Impact" is needed for sustainability to continue in our industry, which means that the buy side and the supply side need to work hand in hand going forward. The SAC has truly developed a platform upon which these discussions can happen to further sustainability work on an ongoing basis.
OEKO-TEX® certificate for REACH compliance SAC Meeting
HONG KONG, 1 August 2013 – Anderson Lee, Vice Chair-man of Sustainable Fashion Business Consortium (SFBC), joins the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) Board of Direc-tors.
This was the SAC's second annual Board election. Four new added seats were added to the SAC Board of Directors, mak-ing the total number of directors on the Board twelve. Amongst Lee, Amy Roberts, Director of Sustainability, Mountain Equip-ment Co-op, Peter Iliopoulos, Senior Vice-President, Public and Corporate Affairs, Gildan Activewear, Inc. and Rick Ridgeway, Vice President of Environmental Initiatives and Special Media Projects, Patagonia, was re-elected to a full-term along with the new members of the Board.
Lee was nominated for the Second Open Board Seat. Nomi-nation requirements are extensive and require candidates to possess ten plus years experience in a finished goods or a fabric mill, preferably of sizeable turnover (> $50M). Candidate is required to have strong sets of skills in facility operations, and experiences related to production, EHS, regulatory com-pliance, quality and/or social compliance activities. This posi-tion is intended for a person from the East or South East Asia to provide further balance in Asia. Voting ran for thirty days until July 8th, 2013. Each company or organization is only allowed one vote, and only voting SAC members who are current on their membership dues are able to vote in this election.
Lee is also the Business Director of Hong Kong Non-Woven Fabric Industrial Co., Ltd; President and CEO of Pinneco Re-search Limited; Executive Committee Member/Director of the Hong Kong Intimate Apparel Industries' Association (HKIAIA); Convener in The Working Group on Innovation and Design of the Fashion Industry Development Committee (FIDC) of the HKSAR Legislative Council; General Committee Member of The Textile Council; Sustainability Working Group Voting Member of the Outdoor Industry Association (OIA); Compli-ance Committee of the Global Apparel, Footwear and Textiles Industry (GAFTI); steering member of the Global Recycle Standard; speaker at CCBF’s and China Water Risk’s 2°C+ Water and Prime Source Forum; and international judge of EcoChic Design Awards 2012 and 2013.
Lee is honoured to be elected to take a role in the Board of Directors, and "is eager to work with industry experts in the Board of Directors, as well as SAC members and the SAC Staff. With trust, respect, alignment in values of results and transparency, and a common goal to reduce the environmental and social impacts of apparel and footwear products around the world, together, I hope to positively influence people and communities to work towards an apparel industry that produc-es no environmental harm. With the anticipation of the release of the Higg index 2.0 in Fall 2013, one can count on a robust open-source tool to measure apparel and footwear sustaina-bility across the industry value chain."
HONG KONG, 21 May 2013 – Fash-ion NGO Redress media launches The EcoChic De-sign Awards 2013 at Hong Kong’s Esprit Flagship Store in Tsim Sha Tsui.
Anderson Lee, Vice Chairman of Sustainable Fashion Business Consortium (SFBC), along with fellow judges Johanna Ho, fashion designer, Margaret Kutt, Project Manager of Sustainability of Esprit, Winnie Cheng of Miele, Kuan Teo of John Hardy, past contestants and many other supporters attended the media launch.
The EcoChic Design Awards 2013 is opened to fashion designers with less than three year's professional expe-rience and fashion design students in any year at an educational institute not only limited to Hong Kong and Mainland China, but has extended to Taiwan, Singa-pore, UK, France, Belgium, or Germany as well. Local judging panels will be present, along side with an inter-national judging panel. Judging will base the criteria of analysis on sustainability, marketability and originality.
The local judging panel will decide on contestants who proceed into the next round of the competition. The in-ternational judging panel, including Lee, Do Do Yeung, Publisher of ELLE Hong Kong and Managing Director of Hearst Magazine, Johanna Ho, Margaret Kutt, and Orsolla de Castro, of upcycling fashion label From Somewhere and London Fashion Week’s eco exhibit Estethica, will then decide on eight finalists who will exhibit their sustainable collections at Hong Kong Fash-ion Week.
Celebrity guest star Sandy Lam announced her involve-ment with the EcoChic Design Awards 2013 as the prize partner. She will be selecting one winning designer to create a sustainable outfit for her.
Lee is extremely excited about this award and ex-claimed, “With six additional regions joining this compe-tition, we wish to see a paradigm shift among emerging designers in bringing new concepts through reconstruc-tion, all the while taking zero-waste and up-cycling seri-ously. Added knowledge and the passion to drive the fashion industry should be the greatest take-away from this competition, all the while recognizing that it is im-portant that sustainable fashion is a natural step in the design process. I am excited to be a part of this compe-tition for the second time.”
EcoChic Design Awards 2013 Media
Launch Vice Chairman of SFBC Joins The
Board of Directors of SAC
At BASF Textile Chemicals, we offer textile mills products and solutions for all essential textile pro-cessing steps with a strong focus on consumer safety, resource saving and climate protection. These solutions are part of our commitment "Putting *FUTURE into Textiles" - to continue offering solutions that contribute to better textiles and a sustainable future.
Putting *FUTURE into Textiles
Consumer Safety
Chemicals are a vital part of textile processing and BASF has a unique competence in chemistry. They take great efforts to ensure that the use of BASF chemicals is safe to the manufacturer, the environment and to the end consumer. All of their products for apparel are designed to ensure textile articles comply with the established and current Oeko-Tex® Standard 100, as well as with the various RSL of leading retailers. With BASF products, a textile producer can always be assured that they are on the safe side.
For products where there is no technical alternative, they continuously strive to reduce the levels of formaldehyde, for example, to be stricter than the Oeko-Tex® Standard 100. They also work on developing alternative formaldehyde-free technologies: Helizarin® pigment printing system and Fixapret® Resin NF for easy care finishing offer a “zero add-on” of formaldehyde during production.
Resource Saving
BASF offers products that can bring the same desired effect using fewer resources. In addition, we offer eco-efficient solutions that increase the efficiency of a process resulting in saving water and energy as well as time and costs – adding value for customers from both economic and ecological aspects. One example is Cyclanon® XC-W New, which is an after-soaping agent for reactive dyed cellulose fibers. Compared to the conventional process, it consider-ably shortens the processing time, saving both water and energy.
The resource saving concept goes beyond the manufacturing stage. Consumers can contribute to resource saving, for example during laundry and ironing by using textiles treated with wrinkle-free and freshness finishing.
Climate Protection
Climate change and reducing greenhouse gas emissions, mainly carbon dioxide (CO2) is of concern globally to BASF. They can contribute to climate protection with BASF eco-efficient textile solutions – they help BASF customers reduce energy and thereby CO2 emissions during textile production. A perfect example is BASF Color Fast Finish that is an advanced coloration system that enables manufacturers to carry out dyeing and finishing in a single step rather than having to dye different fabrics separately before finishing. The total processing time is considerably shortened com-pared to the conventional process, reducing water as well as energy, and thereby CO2 emissions.
With the increasing global con-sumption of manufacturing goods, product manufacturing systems have come under in-tense scrutiny with regard to their impact on the environ-ment.
It is therefore imperative that the textile industry address such issues as it is one of the most polluting manufacturing industries in the world. At every stage of textile production, large amounts of energy, clean water and chemicals are used to process the textiles and apparel which we consumers demand. In turn these processes generate air, water and soil pollution through often-untreated effluent disposal and waste generation which place a heavy burden on the environment.
DyStar has always been committed to the highest standards of product safety and ecology and to the development of products and processes offering Best Available Technology with reduced environmental impact to textile processors. Through its econfidence® program DyStar is making expertise in dye chemistry, ecology, and process know-how avail-able to all parts of the textile supply chain.
In order to achieve reduced load on environment, textile industry need to optimize and standardize the entire supply chain and resources. DyStar, as a responsible player in the field of textile coloration, has been working in this direction for a long time. To Dystar, sustainability means being able to continuously innovate and introduce eco-friendly dyes, services and solutions in the market. This translates into working closely with brands, retailers and their suppliers to develop solutions that help them reduce their environmental impact.
Low impact dyes
Reactive dyes are one of the most important dye classes for coloration of textiles. The requirements for these dyes are challenging and diverse. High colour fastness performance, very high rates of Right First Time (RFT) dyeing’s, high fixation levels, low salt requirement, and easy wash off behaviour are frequently demanded by dye houses. Additionally, requests from Brands & Retailers regarding compliance with their Restricted Substance Lists (RSL’s) and generally for more sustainable coloration processes are increasing. DyStar developed three new reactive dyes in the range of Levafix CA dyes in 2011 which support greater sustainability and have improved product performance.
GOTS approved dyes & chemicals for Organic Textiles
DyStar offers a wide range of colorants and auxiliaries that have been specifically approved for use on organic textiles by certification organizations such as Control Union Certifications (CU) and the Institute for Marketecology (IMO), the first approved body to offer certification under the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS).
DyStar experts in cotton processing have defined how to use GOTS-approved products to achieve sustainable and optimized results in organic cotton processing using Best Available Technology in pre-treatment, dyeing and finishing.
Sustainability Services
DyStar Textile Services (DTS), a DyStar subsidiary, offers a number of services that are aimed at improving sustainability performance of customers across the supply chain. DTS helps brands, retailers and their partners – textile mills, dye-houses, laundries, printers and tanneries to improve environmental performance. DTS has four business units - Color Solutions, Ecology Solutions, Testing Solutions, and Sustainable Textile Solutions. Each business unit has its own sustainable solutions to deal with the sustainability issues of the textile and apparel industry.
Sustainable Processing and Coloration of Textiles
DyStar Textile Services
New ONE WAY Score Cards for Clariant's resource-saving innovations
The ONE WAY sustainability service supports customers in choosing eco-advanced products and processes
An estimated 700 million liters of water were saved with Advanced Denim in 2012
New ONE WAY Score Cards, featured in the publication and on the Clariant website, demonstrate the percentage sav-
ings in water and energy consumption, chemical usage, time, carbon dioxide emissions and BOD/COD ratio achievable
with its cutting-edge technologies compared to conventional processes. Clariant’s unique ONE WAY sustainability
toolbox provides textile mills, manufacturers, brands and retailers with reliable facts and measurements to assist their
selection of products and processes that aim at reconciling the twin
objectives of ecology and economy.
The Score Cards highlight trail blazing savings potential, such as:
◇ “Advanced Denim”, an award-winning dyeing process allowing po-
tential savings of 92% in water consumption and 45% in energy
consumption compared to conventional denim dyeing processes;
◇ The “SWIFT” continuous dyeing process for PES/CEL Blends,
which can help achieve up to 45% less CO2 emissions and 50%
less water use compared to the conventional process;
◇ The “Ultra low liquor ratio cellulosic dyeing” process which can
show reductions of up to 43% in energy consumption and 25% in
water consumption compared to the benchmark process;
◇ The “BLUE MAGIC” process for discontinous treatment that can
allow savings of up to 50% in water, 40% in energy and 50% in
time compared to classical bleaching processes.
The contribution of Clariant’s technologies to global water saving efforts
is already evident. In 2012, Clariant calculated that its Advanced Denim
technology saved an estimated 700 million liters of water, yet it is used
in only an extremely small part of worldwide jeans’ production.
And the company is definitely living by its own creed:. In May 2012, Clariant started operating what it believes is the first-ever sustainable effluent treatment (SET) facility for a textile operational site. The facility is located in Jamshoro, Pakistan.
Emrah Esder, Head of Marketing for Chemicals at Clariant’s Textile Chemicals Business Unit, comments: “With the ONE WAY toolbox we are going the extra mile to encourage and support greater resource saving by the textile industry. It puts transparent and reliable facts about how new available technologies help answer brands’ and retailers’ requirements for more sustainability – at controlled cost levels – at their fingertips.”
New ONE WAY Score Cards for Clariant's resource-saving innovations (Photos: Clariant) www.clariant.com
Clariant supports water saving efforts in textile manufacturing
By using this leading-edge technology, 93 percent of the treated waste water meets A&E’s high quality standards, producing better quality that what is found in the city pur-chased water. The remaining 7 percent of water goes through a series of evaporators as part of an energy-saving process. Precau-tions are then taken to remove the liquid-turned-solid waste for proper disposal.
A Recycle/Reuse Wastewater System was installed in our Dongguan, China plant, in 2012 (pictured above). The pro-ject recovers and reuses 50 percent of the wastewater from the manufacturing process. A complex treatment and recy-cling process (pictured below), saves the environment and saves money through a reduction in water usage. Initiated in March, this system is already producing the desired results. Our overall global improvement in water consumption is 15.5% per kilogram of thread over the last seven years. At our Dongguan Dongmei Thread Manufacturing Plant, the water consumption has been reduced by 54% over the last seven years.
Committed to planet stewardship, our Ten Threads of Sustainability demonstrates an ongoing commitment to investing in solutions that reduce environmental impact. Based on best practices and reflecting technological inno-vation, the company’s ECO-DRIVEN platform consists of these sustainability principles. 1. Global Carbon Footprint 2. Water Conservation and Recycling 3. Energy Conservation 4. Sustainable Packaging 5. Recycling and Waste Reduction 6. Sustainable Products 7. Global EHS and Social Responsibility 8. Supply Chain Sustainability 9. Eco-Driven Product Stewardship 10. Eco-Driven Education and Involvement Our progress in Water Conservation & Recycling are as follows:
Water Conservation A&E has long advocated environmental responsibility. Consequently, all global manufacturing facilities are de-signed to reduce water consumption and to improve the quality of the water supply for its ultimate use. A premiere example of this is the zero-liquid discharge plant located in Perundarai, India. This plant uses a bio-logical system to treat water for the manufacturing pro-cess. The treated water passes through a quartz filter before the Ultra Filtration occurs (pictured below), remov-ing all suspended materials. The water then passes through a series of pre-treatments before going through the reverse osmosis process to remove the organic color.
A&E Success in Sustainability and
Water Conservation & Recycling
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