jewelry presentation

Appraising Gems & Jewelryby Jamie Clark Tiralla

About JamieExperience & Education

Started in jewelry in 1999Graduate GemologistGemological Institute of America - Carlsbad, CA

(2003)Gemologist & Appraiser for Maertens Fine Jewelry & Gifts since 2003Certified Gemologist American Gem Society (2008)

Jamie Clark TirallaGraduate Gemologist (GIA)

Areas of Focus & SpecialtiesDiamonds, Gemstones, Fine Jewelry and WatchesEstate + Antique Jewelry and Watches

Types of AppraisalsInsurance Replacement Appraisals

Estate AppraisalsGemstone Identification

Jewelry Verification

About Jamie

Why Have Jewelry AppraisedInsurance Purposes

What if the piece was lost or stolen…Estate Evaluations

Legal document to settle an estate…Resale Purposes

What if you wanted to sell your jewelry…

Verification (Piece of Mind)

Did you get what you paid for…

Insurance Appraisals“The amount it would cost to replace an item with one of similar and like quality purchased in the most appropriate marketplace within a limited amount of time.” Definition from the Appraisers Association of America

Retail, replacement valueHow much would a similar item cost in a retail setting?Re-evaluate every 3 to 5 yearsShould it include sales tax?

Estate AppraisalsCalculated at fair market value, “the price that property would sell for on the open market between a willing buyer and a willing seller, with neither being required to act and both having reasonable knowledge of the relevant facts.” Definition from the Appraisers Association of America

Generally less than a replacement valueHow much would a dealer pay, what would it sell for at auction?Determined at a specific date

Verification ReportFormal document to verify the type of metal, quality of diamonds and/or gemstonesDoes not suggest a value

Is the Appraiser QualifiedIndependent Appraiser vs. Jeweler Appraiser

Education and Continuing Education

Experience

What’s in an AppraisalMore than just a value!Detailed description of the piece of jewelryManufacturers name, hallmarksPhoto(s) of the jewelryCover letter explaining purpose of documentDate, Current Metal Prices

How Do You Appraise JewelryEquipment

Magnification LightingGemstone Identification

10X Loupe FluorescentRefractometer

Microscope IncandescentPolariscope

UltravioletSpectrascope

Weights & Measures Metal Testing Other ToolsMillimeter Guage Testing Stone

CleanersScale Acid Tests

Tweezers

Appraising JewelryType of Jewelry: Ex. Man’s Ring; Lady’s NecklaceType and Purity of Metal: Ex. 14kt white gold; Platinum (10%IRID)Weights & Measures: Weight of piece; length of chain; width of ringManufacturer or DesignerType of Setting: Ex. Bezel set; Six-prong settingNumber, Type and Size of Diamonds and/or GemsDescription of Piece

Appraising Diamonds

Appraising Diamonds

Determining Value

Market research, trade journals, pricing guides

Finding real comparables

Appraising Gemstones

First step: Identify type of gemstone

Loupe

Microscope

Refractometer

Appraising GemstonesColor: Hue, Intensity, Saturation

Cut: Shape, Symmetry, Proportions

Clarity: Standards vary by type of gem

Carat Weight

Special Characteristics: Example Opals, Star Sapphires

Appraising Gemstones

Determining Value

Market research, trade journals, pricing guides

Finding real comparables

Natural vs. Synthetic

Natural Diamonds & Gems

Formed in natureSynthetic Diamonds & Gems

Lab GrownIdentical chemical and crystal structure to natural counterparts

Natural vs. SyntheticLab created gems have been popular in jewelry since late 1800sDiamonds successfully synthesized 1940s

Synthetic diamonds rarely exceed 1 carat

A majority of synthetic diamonds and gems are used in manufacturing: watch parts, computer parts, industrial abrasives

Natural vs. SyntheticNearly every natural gemstone has a synthetic counterpart

Most common in jewelry: Ruby, Sapphire, Emerald

How Can You Tell The Difference?

Use magnification (loupe or microscope)

Evaluate the gems inclusions

Evaluate growth patterns

Natural vs. Synthetic

Synthetic Ruby Exhibiting Curved Striae

Synthetic Emerald With

“Nailhead” Spicule Inclusions

Natural vs. Synthetic

Synthetic (Flame Fusion)Ruby With Red Fluorescence Under UV Light

Synthetic Sapphire Crystals (Flame Fusion)

Natural vs. SimulantSimulant and Imitation

Gemstones that look like a natural gemstone but are a completely

different material

Example: Diamonds vs. Cubic Zirconia vs. Moissanite

Natural vs. Simulant

Diamond vs. Cubic Zirconia

How can you tell the difference?

Natural vs. SimulantDiamond vs. Cubic ZirconiaHow effective are thermal testers?What if the Cubic Zirconia has a coating?“Diamantine” colorless cubic zirconia with a thin layer (~5nm) of carbon, aluminum and titanium which improve the optic characteristics of a CZ, give a false positive read in thermal testing, but do not withstand long term wear...

Natural vs. SimulantDiamond vs. Cubic ZirconiaHow can you tell the difference?

Using a loupe, study the surface of the gem. Diamonds are the hardest material and take a very crisp polish, unlike CZ. Facet lines will be sharp, with straight edges.

Natural vs. SimulantDiamond vs. Cubic ZirconiaHow can you tell the difference?

Look at the stone’s girdle. Diamonds are typically polished and faceted, however they may be left rough (bruted). A CZ will be polished smooth (in some cases faceted) but will not be as crisp.

Natural vs. SimulantDiamond vs. Cubic Zirconia

Left: Cubic Zirconia with polished girdle, left smooth, somewhat waxy in appearance.Right: Diamond with faceted girdle

Natural vs. SimulantDiamond vs. Cubic Zirconia

Left: Diamond with faceted girdle / Right: Diamond with bruted girdle “bearded”

Natural vs. SimulantDiamond vs. Cubic Zirconia

“Breath Test” - Breath on the stone like you’re fogging a window. Diamonds will clear almost instantly, compared to CZ which will take longer.

Natural vs. SimulantDiamond vs. Cubic Zirconia“See Through Test” - If the stone is unmounted, you can place it table down over a piece of printed material. If you can read through the stone, it is not likely a diamond.

Natural vs. SimulantDiamond vs. MoissaniteDiamonds are single refractiveMoissanite is double refractiveMoissanite has a higher dispersionthan diamonds (.044 vs .104)Moissanite is lab-created, inclusions will vary significantly from a natural diamond

Example of “doubling” in Moissanite

Natural vs. SimulantGlass & Plastic

Glass and Plastic are common, inexpensive and can recreate the look of any gemstone.

Glass used in jewelry since the ancient Roman times.

Plastics have existed since the 1800s.

Gemstone Treatments

Technically, all diamonds and gemstones are “treated” as they are taken from their original “rough” state and faceted, cleaned and/or shaped into a marketable gem.

Diamond TreatmentsTreatments To Improve Clarity

Fracture Filled

Laser Drilled

Diamond TreatmentsTreatments To Improve ColorIrradiation is used to change low colored diamonds to more desirable “fancy” colors.

Gemstone TreatmentsHeat TreatmentImproves color and/or clarityCommonly heat treated gems:

Sapphire AmberRuby AquamarineTopaz Tourmaline

Tanzanite ZirconQuartz Silk Inclusions in an unheated

blue sapphire

Gemstone TreatmentsIrradiated GemstonesImprove ColorCommon gems that are irradiated:

Blue Topaz Green AmethystOrange Sapphire AmetrineGreen Sapphire Black Pearls

Irradiated Ametrine

Gemstone TreatmentsFracture FillingImproves Clarity; most common in Emeralds

Left: untreated Emerald / Right: after oil treatment

Gemstone TreatmentsGlass-filled Rubies

Gemstone TreatmentsThere are a few gemstones that are almost never treated including:

GarnetSpinelPeridotGreen TourmalineOrange, Brown and Red Zircon Multi-colored Garnets

Buying Jewelry

Shop at a place you know and trustResearch vs. Impulse BuysBuying jewelry onlineBuying for investment purposes

Buying Jewelry

Before you buy a piece of jewelry:1. Know the return policy2. Ask about warranties3. If it’s not in new condition, find out what repairs are needed first

Buying Jewelry

Before you buy a piece of jewelry:4. Details about the metal quality5. Details about the diamonds/gemstones6. What’s the best price?

Buying Jewelry

Shopping for jewelry online:1. Know the return policy2. Ask about warranty3. How trustworthy is the seller?4. Get photos and details of the jewelry

Investing in JewelryBuy something because you love it and you’ll wear itInvesting in gold, diamonds and gems is not for novice collectorsThese markets are highly volatileIt’s not worth “anything” until you sell it

Buying DiamondsKnow the 4C’s - Which one is most important?It never hurts to shop around - Can you get a better deal on the internet?Look at the diamond under magnification before you buy it - know your stone’s “birthmarks”

Buying DiamondsDiamond Certificates - Not all are “equal”Gemological Institute of America (GIA) American Gem Society Laboratory (AGS)EGL USA Gemological Labs (EGL)

Laboratory should issue a report, never an appraisal or a value

Buying GemstonesBefore you buy a gemstone, ask yourself:How often you want to wear it? When? Where?What type of work do you do? Are you “hard” on your jewelry?

Buying GemstonesMost gemstones are not suitable for daily wear

Every DayDiamondsSapphiresRubiesJade

Frequent WearTopazGarnetTourmalineSpinel

Occasional WearEmeraldsOpalsTanzanitePearls

Buying GemstonesWhat Questions to Ask:1. Was the gemstone treated? How?2. Is the origin of the gemstone known?3. How does the stone look in different kinds of light?4. Look at the stone under magnification

Buying GemstonesGem Lab Testing & CertificatesGemological Institute of America (GIA) EGL USA Gemological Labs (EGL)American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) - closed in 2009

Laboratory should issue a report, never an appraisal or a value

Selling JewelryWhat are your goals? Do you want the most amount of money you can get?Do you want to sell it very quickly?Have the piece appraisedSelling to a dealer vs. consignment vs. private saleSelling jewelry online

Thank You!

Jamie Clark Tirallajtiralla@gmail.com

301.651.7029

Available By AppointmentMaertens Fine Jewelry & Gifts

Lusby, Marylandwww.maertensjewelry.com

410.394.3990