Ajrakh Printing

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    Ajrakh Printing

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    Ajrakh

    Meghval and Sindhi Muslim women wear Ajrakh printed

    Ghaghraand Odhna.

    Ajrakhprinted fabrics are used as head-cloth or shoulder cloth

    by MaldhariMuslims.

    A red dominated Ajrakh Malir is preferred as a special

    ceremonial cloth by Muslim grooms.

    Products made in Ajrakhare: Bed Spreads Blankets Turbans or Shoulder Cloth for men Veils or Skirts for women

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    Ajrakh

    The borders are printed from left to right-always before the mainbody of fabric

    Ajrakhprinting can be single Ekpuri or double sided Bepuri.

    When the reverse side is printed, the process is carried out while thematerial is still damp, as fabric tend to shrink when it dries.

    The Ajrakhis clearly distinguished from other block printing not only

    by deep red and blue but also in its structuring of motifs.

    Each motifs quarters is produced by an identical impression of the

    block, the four parts coming together to form the whole motif.

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    Fabric Processing

    Washed with waterand soda ash

    Steamed to soften

    Soaped and washed

    Dipped in mixture ofoils, twisted andkept overnight

    Washed and dipped

    in mixture of oil andsakunseeds(tamarisk)

    Printing

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    Printing Process

    First Print - on the areas which are to be keptwhite. Asul or Asil(Asule-jo-pur)

    Gum Mimosa arabica+ Lime + Alizarine

    Second Print - Kot(Kot-jo-pur)Ferrous sulphate + Clay + Gum + Tamarind seeds

    Syahi paste, which turns black on contact with alizarin, is used in the

    second stage of printing.

    Third Print - Khor- Resist Print (Khor-jo-pur)

    Clay + Flour + Aluminium sulphate + Jaggery

    All areas to be resisted for indigo are printed with gach, an alum

    resist-mixed with mordant.

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    Blocks

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    Blocks

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    Printing Process

    Alizarine Dyeing

    Indigo Dyeing

    Dipping in water and fresh camel dung for 12

    hours.

    Washing with soda ash and caustic soda.

    Minais done for second shade of blue using the

    blocks Phulimade as star shaped or circularsimple motifs.

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    Motifs in Ajrakh

    Almond (Badam) Phul Millstone (Chakki)

    Khajur - Date (Khorak) Peacock (Moru) Sweetmeat (Gileb) Jewel Box (Dabuli)

    Love Affair (Ishq-Pench) Government Seal (Chalo Sarkari) Thi-hashe-jo-ajrakh

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