FKM Presentation

8/8/2019 FKM Presentation

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INTRODUCTION

Weaving is an ancient art of making cloth and

other fabrics and Indians have been experts at

weaving from time immemorial. Weaving in

India has been a hobby for centuries and has

now evolved into a complete industry. The

Indian woven fabrics are famous worldwide and

it is also one of the largest cottage industries inthe country.


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BROCADE

The art of brocade weaving is quite popular in India,

since the old times.

It has been creating wonders and getting huge acclaim

from world over for their distinctive style. The basic cloth required for this form is silk as it is quite

durable and stylish. Some of the weavers also make use

of a mix of silk and cotton.

With a variety of silk and cotton fabric available in India,one can get to see uniqueness in every piece.

It is usually done in Varanasi in the state of Uttar

Pradesh


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WEAVING TECHNIQUE

Brocade is typically woven on a draw loom. It is

a supplementary weft technique, that is, the

ornamental brocading is produced by a

supplementary, non-structural, weft in addition

to the standard weft that holds

the warp threads together. The purpose of this

is to give the appearance that the weaveactually was embroidered on


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BALUCHARI

The art ofBaluchari weaving came from Baluchar, a

place near Murshidabad.

Its best feature is that of using human brocade figures

for decorating pallu and borders. What makes this weaving style more elegant is the use

of fine quality silk and silver zari work.

Generally, in this pattern, the ground colors are beige,

red, blue and pink with contrast colored borders. The entire masterpiece ofBaluchari work enables the

wearer to adorn a touch of grace and stands out of

crown for being exclusive.


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WEAVING TECHNIQUE

Various mythological characters like Ram, Sita, Radha,and Krishna are intricately portrayed on it. Baluchari iswoven with two varieties of silk threads on French madeJacquard type looms One of the silk types is set

vertically and the other is set horizontally in the speciallooms. To make a single sari it takes a lot of effort forthe artisans. Before fixing the threads on the loom thesilk threads are washed in boiling water. On the next dayit is coloured by dipping in hot colours. Then the threads

are rolled on the spinning wheels. After toiling for nearlyfive to six months we get those beautiful exquisiteBaluchari saris.


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CHANDERI

Chanderi is a town near to Gwalior, which is

famous for hand woven silk saris.

This style of weaving is considered to beextremely fine with intricately woven borders.

Saris designed from this art were exclusively

known for their gossamer shimmer and

delicacy.


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WEAVING TECHNIQUE

Chanderi is produced using three raw

materials: cotton, silk thread, and zari. The

colours ofChanderi silk come from both natural

as well as chemical processes. Traditional

looms are used as the primary means of

production. These include pit looms, dobby,

and jacquard looms. The hand-woven silk has alight, sheer quality that sets it apart from

textiles produced en masse in factories


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IKKAT- SAMBALPURI

Ikat is quite well-known for classy thread work,along with tie and dye process.

Famous in Gujarat, Andhra Pradesh and Orissa,

this weaving style is known by various names indifferent towns. In Orissa it is known as theSambalpuri ikkat.

It is the intricacy and beauty of

the Ikat that has made it popular worldwide and afavorite among manypeople.


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WEAVING TECHNIQUE

Ikat, or Ikkat, is the method ofweavingthat usesa resist dyeingprocess similar to tie-dye on eitherthe warp or weft fibres.

The dye is applied prior to the threads being wovento create the final fabric pattern or design.

Double Ikat is where both warp and the weft areresist-dyed prior to stringing on the loom.

Traditionally, and still commonly, a back-strap loomis used, though any variant or modern loom maybe used


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AMAVAR

The art of Jamawar was brought to Kashmir by Persians,centuries ago. But, it grew and reached its zenith in theMughal period.

From that time to now, the art of Jamawar reflects a

perfect blend of beauty, warmth and luxury. What madethis style exclusive is the design based on flora andfauna.

In fact, the most demanding patterns have been jaldarand buti work.

Jamawar style of weaving is quite famous for a mix ofcreativity blended with traditionalism. Its beauty lies inthe stylishness of intricate designs.


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WEAVING TECHNIQUE

Jama means robe and war is yard. The base of thejamawar is mostly resham, with perhaps an addition of alittle polyester. The brocaded parts are woven in similarthreads of silk and polyester. Most of the designs seen

today are floral, with the kairy (i.e. the paisley) as thepredominant motif.

Today, the best jamavar is woven in Pakistan. This fabricis widely used in that country for bridal and specialoccasion outfits. The texture and weave of patterns is

such that the fabric often gets caught when rubbedagainst rough surfaces (metallic embroidery, jewelleryetc.) it must therefore be handled delicately when worn


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AMDHANI

The art of weaving Jamdani started years and

years ago that finds mention in Kautilyas

Arthashastra.

Jamdani is a patterned piece of muslin

cloth used for embroidery during weaving process.

It, usually, contains geometrical and floral patterns

dyed in a light shade. After this, the designs aredrawn on it using colors like maroon, white, green,

black, silver and golden color.


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WEAVING TECHNIQUE

Jamdani is a hand loom woven fabric made of cotton,

which historically was referred to as muslin. The

Jamdani weaving tradition is ofBengali origin. It is oneof the most time and labour intensive forms of weaving

hand loom weaving.

Whether figured or flowered, Jamdani is a woven fabricin cotton, and it is undoubtedly one of the varieties of

the finest muslin. It has been spoken of as the most

artistic textile of the Bangladeshi weaver. Traditionallywoven around Dhaka and created on the loom brocade,Jamdani is fabulously rich in motifs.


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KOTA DORIA

The style of Kota Doria started 200 years ago,when some weavers from Kaithun (near Kota,Rajasthan) used to weave coarse plain fabric.

With unique patterns and motifs, this designform has enabled people to showcase culture

in the best possible form.

The uniqueness of this art lies in its stylishweaving with colorful threads and intricatemotifs.


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WEAVING TECHNIQUE

Cotton or cotton-silk yarn of different thickness isused in the weaving. The silk gives the necessarytransparency and cotton provides strength to thefabric. Everything is done in the age old manner

right from the setting of the patterns to setting ofthe loom.

The traditional Kota Doria is white in colour but

once dyed the fabric come out in bright hues likepomegranate red, purple, Bordeaux red, turquoise,lapis, turmeric yellow and saffron.


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MAHESWARI

The Maheshwari sari is quite famous for its sheerbeauty and gossamer thin blend of silk and cottonyarn.

This weaving art is carried out either on a purecotton fabric, or a mix of silk and cotton.

It is characterized by geometrical motifs, such assmall checks or stripes made on the cloth with

dark colored border.

It belongs to Maheshwar a small town in MadhyaPradesh


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WEAVING TECHNIQUE

The Maheshwari sari is made of either pure cotton i.e.,cotton wefts on cotton warps, or is mixed ie fine silkwarps and cotton weft. They are characterized by anarrow coloured border embellished with gold (zari) and

small checks, narrow stripes, or solid colour in the body Maheshwari saris were traditionally woven by Hindu

weavers, mostly women from the local Marucommunity.

Subtle colours and textures are created by using

different shades in the warp and weft. Gold thread orzari is also used in Maheshwari saris to weave elegantmotifs on the body, border and pallu.


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PAITHANI

This weave belongs to the state of

Maharashtra.

Paithani art is known for fine weaving ofembroidery and complex bleaching/ dyeing of

the material.

It is, in fact, a merger of ethnicity and

classicism.


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WEAVING TECHNIQUE

Paithani saris are silks in which there is no extra weft forming figures. The figuringweave was obtained by a plain tapestry technique.

There are three techniques of weaving;

Split tapestry weave - the simplest weave where two weft threads are woven up toadjacent warp threads and then reversed. The warp threads are then cut and retiedto a different colour.

Interlocking method - two wefts are interlocked with each other where the colourchange is required. The figuring weft is made of a number of coloured threads,weaving plain with warp threads and interlocked on either side with the grounds weftthreads are invariably gold threads which interlock with the figure weft threads, thusforming the figure. This system of interlocking weaves, known as kadiyal, is done sothat there are no extra floats on the back of the motif thus making the design nearlyreversible.

Dobe-tailing method - two threads go around the same warp, one above the other,creating a dobe-tailing or tooth-comb effect.

Weaving could take between 18 to 24 months, depending upon the complexity of thedesign.

Real Paithani is hand woven pure silk and gold/silver


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POCHAMPALLI

Pochampalli is a place in Andhra Pradesh, which is

world famous as Silk City.

Almost 100 villages in this region are involved in

weaving Pochampalli saris.

What makes them exclusive is a perfect mix of

history, tradition, culture and modernity. With the

use of traditional looms, Pochampalli saris are woven intrinsically

beautiful.


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WEAVING TECHNIQUE

Pochampalli is the place where threads and colours findtheir way into the hands of skilful weavers and meander intothe market as beautiful saris and dress material is the mosttypical weaving village in Nalgonda District of AndhraPradesh.

Basking under the glory on par with the weaves of otherplaces(Such as Kanchi, Dharmavaram, Gadwal, Venkatagirietc.), Pochampally weave is popularly known as ikkat or tieand dye weave. The uniqueness lies in the transfer of designand colouring onto warp and weft threads first and then

weave them together. The fabric is cotton, silk and sico - amix of silk and cotton. Increasingly, the colours themselvesare from natural sources and their blends.


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CONCLUSION

The most common and popular fabrics remains the Banarasi,Jamawar, paithanis, atlas and katans. These are the fabrics that aperson can usually find in our local markets and have a high level ofdemand. However the other materials like tanchoi, mushabbar, himru

/ amru, mushru, etc. have been relegated to selective niches in the

market. Most people even after coming across these fabrics usuallyrefer to them as others due to the absence of such materials inpopular use and lack of awareness in general of the availability ofthese fabrics.

Awareness of these Indian woven materials will have to be startedwithin our own country. Thus, we will require special exhibitions of

designers who work with these materials, displaying of thesematerials at fashion shows, promotion of the clothing designed in thematerials with the high end boutiques and awareness creationthrough experts and designers talk shows.

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