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PrenticeHallEARTH SCIENCE
Tarbuck Lutgens
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Chapter
16The Dynamic Ocean
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Surface Circulation
16.1 The Composition of Seawater
Ocean current is the mass of ocean waterthat flows from one place to another.
Surface Currents
Surface currents are movements of water thatflow horizontally in the upper part of the oceans
surface.
Surface currents develop from friction between
the ocean and the wind that blows across its
surface.
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Ocean Surface Currents
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Surface CirculationGyres
16.1 The Composition of Seawater
Gyres are huge circular-moving current systems
that dominate the surfaces of the oceans. The Coriolis effect is the deflection of currents
away from their original course as a result of
Earths rotation.
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Surface CirculationOcean Currents and Climate
16.1 The Composition of Seawater
When currents from low-latitude regions move
into higher latitudes, they transfer heat fromwarmer to cooler areas on Earth.
As cold water currents travel toward the equator,
they help moderate the warm temperatures of
adjacent land areas.
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False-Colored Satellite Imageof the Gulf Stream
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Surface CirculationUpwelling
16.1 The Composition of Seawater
Upwelling is the rise of cold water from deeper
layers to replace warmer surface water.
Upwelling brings greater concentrations of
dissolved nutrients, such as nitrates and
phosphates, to the ocean surface.
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Effects of Upwelling
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Deep-Ocean CirculationDensity Currents
16.1 The Composition of Seawater
Densitycurrents are vertical currents of ocean
water that result from density differences amongwater masses.
An increase in seawater density can be caused
by a decrease in temperature or an increase in
salinity.
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Deep-Ocean CirculationHigh Latitudes
16.1 The Composition of Seawater
Most water involved in deep-ocean currents
begins in high latitudes at the surface.
Evaporation
Density currents can also result from increased
salinity of ocean water due to evaporation.
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Deep-Ocean CirculationA Conveyor Belt
16.1 The Composition of Seawater
In a simplified model, ocean circulation is similar
to a conveyor belt that travels from the AtlanticOcean, through the Indian and Pacific Oceans,
and back again.
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Conveyor Belt Model
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Cross Section of the Arctic Ocean
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WavesWave Characteristics
16.2 Waves and Tides
Most ocean waves obtain their energy and
motion from the wind. The wave height is the vertical distance
between the trough and crest.
The wavelength is the horizontal distance
between two successive crests or twosuccessive troughs.
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WavesWave Characteristics
16.2 Waves and Tides
The wave period is the time it takes one full
waveone wavelengthto pass a fixedposition.
The height, length, and period that areeventually achieved by a wave depend on three
factors: (1) wind speed, (2) length of time the
wind has blown, and (3) fetch.
Fetch is the distance that the wind has traveledacross open water.
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Anatomy of a Wave
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WavesWave Motion
16.2 Waves and Tides
Circular orbital motion allows energy to move
forward through the water while the individualwater particles that transmit the wave move
around in a circle.
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WavesBreaking Waves
16.2 Waves and Tides
Changes occur as a wave moves onto shore.
As the waves touch bottom, wave speeddecreases. The decrease in wave speed results
in a decrease in wavelength and an increase in
wave height.
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Breaking Waves
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Tides
Ocean tides result from the gravitationalattraction exerted upon Earth by the moon
and, to a lesser extent, by the sun.
16.2 Waves and Tides
Tides are daily changes in the elevation ofthe ocean surface.
Tide-Causing Forces
The force that produces tides is gravity.
Tid B l E h
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Tide Bulges on EarthCaused by the Moon
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TidesTide Cycle
16.2 Waves and Tides
Spring tides are tides that have the greatesttidal range due to the alignment of the Earth
moonsun system.
Tidal range is the difference in height between
successive high and low tides.
Neap tides are tides that have the lowest tidalrange, occurring near the times of the first-
quarter and third-quarter phases of the moon.
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EarthMoonSun Positionsand the Tides
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TidesTidal Patterns
16.2 Waves and Tides
Three main tidal patterns exist worldwide:
diurnal tides, semidiurnal tides, and mixed tides.
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Forces Acting on the ShorelineA beach is the accumulation of sedimentfound along the shore of a lake or ocean.
16.3 Shoreline Processes and Features
Waves along the shoreline are constantlyeroding, transporting, and depositing
sediment. Many types of shoreline features
can result from this activity.
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Forces Acting on the ShorelineWave Impact
16.3 Shoreline Processes and Features
The impact of large, high-energy waves against
the shore can be awesome in its violence. Eachbreaking wave may hurl thousands of tons of
water against the land, sometimes causing the
ground to tremble.
Abrasion Abrasion is the sawing and grinding action of
rock fragments in the water.
Abrasion is probably more intense in the surf
zone than in any other environment.
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Forces Acting on the ShorelineWave Refraction
16.3 Shoreline Processes and Features
Wave refraction is the bending of waves, and it
plays an important part in the shoreline process. Because of refraction, wave energy is
concentrated against the sides and ends of
headlands that project into the water, whereas
wave action is weakened in bays.
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Wave Refraction
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Forces Acting on the ShorelineLongshore Transport
16.3 Shoreline Processes and Features
A longshore current is a near-shore current that
flows parallel to the shore. Turbulence allows longshore currents to easily
move fine suspended sand and to roll larger
sand and gravel particles along the bottom.
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Longshore Currents
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Erosional FeaturesShoreline features that originate primarilyfrom the work of erosion are called
erosional features. Sediment that istransported along the shore and deposited
in areas where energy is low produces
depositional features.
16.3 Shoreline Processes and Features
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Erosional FeaturesWave-Cut Cliffs and Platforms
16.3 Shoreline Processes and Features
Wave-cut cliffs result from the cutting action of
the surf against the base of coastal land. A flat,bench-like, wave-cut platform forms in front of
the wave-cut cliff.
Sea Arches and Sea Stacks
When two caves on opposite sides of aheadland unite, a sea arch results. Eventually,
the arch falls in, leaving an isolated remnant, or
sea stack, on the wave-cut platform.
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Sea Arch and Sea Stack
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Depositional FeaturesSpits, Bars, and Tombolos
16.3 Shoreline Processes and Features
Where longshore currents and other surf zone
currents are active, several features related tothe movement of sediment along the shore may
develop.
- A spit is an elongated ridge of sand that projects
from the land into the mouth of an adjacent bay.
- A baymouth bar is a sandbar that completely
crosses a bay.
- A tombolo is a ridge of sand that connects an
island to the mainland or to another island.
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Evolution of Shoreline Features
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Depositional FeaturesBarrier Islands
16.3 Shoreline Processes and Features
Barrier islands are narrow sandbars parallel to,
but separate from, the coast at distances from 3to 30 kilometers offshore.
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Barrier Islands
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Stabilizing the ShoreProtective Structures
16.3 Shoreline Processes and Features
Groins, breakwaters, and seawalls are some
structures built to protect a coast from erosion orto prevent the movement of sand along a beach.
Beach Nourishment Beach nourishment is the addition of large
quantities of sand to the beach system.
Miami Beach Before and After
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Miami Beach Before and AfterBeach Nourishment