SEPTEMBER 2012Issue 7

RedRessing ConsumeRism

ethan Li: danCing Within a Lens

RiveRs to FjoRds

Yangshuo and sWeden

Chinas distuRbia aRtists

Rise oF the bLoggeRs

eveRY Last gRain: meet FoodLink

INSPIRE YOUR WORLD

Green Is GOOd

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PersPective Redressing Consumerism

Dancing Within a Lens: Ethan Li

:

Foodlink: Every Last Grain

The Vegetarian Debate

DesiGN Fall for Him & Her

Watches of the World

Reduce, Reuse, Recycle Guide

Recycled Paper Frames

At Home in the Hutongs

Interior Eye

WOrLD Finding Neverland, Glimpsing Guilin

Spectacular Sweden

AERIS Talks to the Bouey Brothers

AERIS Bouey

cULtUre AERIS Talks to Michael Wong

AERISMichael Wong

Rise of the Blogger

AERIS Talks to Ricky Lo AERISRicky Lo

Chinas Disturbia Artists

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September 2012

Aeriswhats in?

The TeamAmANDA sieW FOUNDerAmanda is an aspiring dermatologist who

recently completed her degree in Medicine

& Surgery in England. Raised in London

and Hong Kong, she started working

as a part-time model with Elite Model

Management at the age of 16. Drawing on

her experiences in modelling, fashion and

internet publishing, she founded AERIS

Magazine in 2010.

Elite Model Management 2010Aeris Magazine.

GrAce BrOWN eDitOr-iN-cHieFGrace graduated with double Bachelors

of International Studies Law from Sydney

University. She gained journalistic

experience at Star World, APV, Channel

Seven, CNN and Bloomberg. Raised

in Hong Kong, Grace speaks fluent

Mandarin and is passionate about

business, people, fashion and art.

Star World, APV, Channel Seven, CNN Bloomb-ergGrace

sOPHie BeNt cOmmUNicAtiONs DirectOrSophie was born and raised in Hong

Kong, before graduating with a Master

of Strategic Public Relations from the

University of Sydney. With a passion for

hiking, politics and new places, her work

experience includes Burson-Marsteller,

Hong Kong Disneyland and Mandarin

Oriental, Hong Kong.

Burson-Marsteller, Hong Kong Disneyland, Hongkong Land,

Jardine Airport Services Group and the Mandarin Oriental.

cArOLiNe GUicHiNA eDitOrCaroline was born and raised in Hunan

province, and later moved to Shanghai.

She is studying Advertising in The Chinese

University of Hong Kong. As a Mandarin,

English and Cantonese speaker, she enjoys

writing and translating, gaining experience

at Xin Hua News Agency. She loves branding,

ancient Chinese literature and travelling to

unheard of places in China.

Carol ine

FOUNDER: Amanda Siew

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Grace Brown

DEpUTy EDITOR: Chong Shao

pERspECTIvE EDITOR: Chong Shao

TRavEl EDITOR: Chong Shao

FOOD EDITOR: Christopher Sim

FasHION EDITOR: Grace Brown

CONTRIbUTINg WRITERs:

Sophie Bent, Sarah Spencer

CHINEsE EDITOR: Caroline Gui

MaNagINg DIRECTOR: Cherry Ng

COMMUNICaTIONs DIRECTOR: Sophie Bent

DEsIgN EDITOR: Jessica Li

JessicA Li DesiGN eDitOrJessica was born and raised in Hong

Kong. She has recently graduated from

Central Saint Martins College of Art and

Design with a degree in Graphic Design

and illustration, and now works as a

freelance designer. Shes interested in the

visual language behind different cultures.

cHONG sHAO DePUty eDitOrChong holds Arts and Law degrees from

the University of Sydney and is currently

studying psychology. He has, along with

a passion for writing, an unusual fondness

for editing and proofreading. Always

keen to learn and experience new things,

Chongs interests include travel, philosophy

and jamming with friends.

Chong

cHristOPHer sim FOOD eDitOrChristopher is an engineer with a passion

for food and travel who formerly wrote

for the Imperial College newspaper.

Having lived in London and Melbourne

he is now living in Amsterdam and

writes in between international projects

as a chemical engineer.

cHerry NG mANAGiNG DirectOrCherry was born in Hong Kong but

has lived in Sydney, York (UK), Beijing,

and Lima. As a Cantonese, English and

Mandarin speaker she enjoys learning

about different cultures and travelling. She

enjoys salsa dancing and meeting new

people. Her work experience has ranged

from selling in the top recyclable ink

cartridge company in China to caregiving

for children in Peru.

ENQUIRIEs

Advertise with us:

advertise@aerismagazine.com

Write for us:

info@aerismagazine.com

CONNECT WITH Us aT:www.aerismagazine.com

WEIbO: http://www.weibo.com/aerisasia

FaCEbOOk: http://www.facebook.com/aerisasia

TWITTER: http://www.twitter.com/aerisasia

CONTRIBUTORSBOB tiANcHeN, eDitOrBob is a first year business student from the

Hong Kong University of Science and Technology.

He is an enthusiastic member of the AERIS team

and is interested in the latest food, travel and

technology trends.

BobAERIS

ON

TH

E

COVERricky LO Ricky is an international award-winning photographer who is absolutely passionate

about fashion, styling as well as photography. The 25 year-old graduated in 2011 from

the HK Polytechnic University. His photography has been awarded and exhibited in

London, New York, Berlin and Italy. Rickys goal is to reinvigorate raw creativity in the

fashion and advertising industries.

Ricky252011Ricky http://www.rickylo.net

sHerry DyUAN, eDitOrBorn and raised in China, Sherry is currently pursuing her Bachelors Degree in Education in Hong Kong. Her passion for words developed from reading with her grandfather and has grown deeper since. Apart from this, she also loves fashion, travel, food and drama! Her previous working experience includes Crossroads Foundation and UNESCO (HK).

Sherry

ADrieNNe cHiU, PersPective cONtriBUtOrAdrienne is a University of California, Berkeley senior

majoring in Media Studies. Born and raised in the US,

she has also lived in Singapore and Hong Kong and

speaks English, Cantonese, Mandarin, and some

French. Her passions include photography, literature,

fashion, writing, and international cuisines. She loves

learning about cultures and hopes that her future

studies and work will take her around the world. Adrienne

FArAH mALik, iNteriOrs cONtriBUtOrBorn in the Middle East and raised in Hong Kong,

Farahs passion for design derives from her fathers

work in the hospitality industry, resulting in

consistent exposure to beautiful spaces. She studied

Interior Design at the Art Institute of Vancouver and

currently works as a colour and design consultant

for Benjamin Moore in Vancouver.

FarahBenhamin Moore

DAN Lim, trAveL cONtriBUtOrSince moving from Malaysia to Australia at the age

of one, Dan has always been interested in seeing the

world and discovered travel after graduating from

Sydney Law School. A passionate dancer, singer, song-

writer, actor, musical director, note-taker and lawyer, he

is now a solicitor at Clayton Utz and spent last year as

Associate to Justice Yates of the Federal Court of Aus-

tralia. His dream is to be Australias first Chinese High

Court judge and maybe its first pop star, too...

Dan

DisHA DAsWANey, FAsHiON cONtriBUtOrBorn and raised in Hong Kong, Disha is currently

studying at German Swiss International School. Her

passion for the arts is derived from her love of dancing.

From a young age she has shown an interest in fashion.

She has written fashion articles for The Common

Room Newspaper (GSISs Newspaper) and contrib-

uted to Verve12 (GSISs fashion show). She was also

apart of the GSIS Podcast and contributed to the

fashion segment. Having attended GSIS for 15 years

she speaks fluent German.

Disha

The Common Room Newspaper

Verve12

CONTRIBUTORSFo

rew

or

ds

eptem

ber 2012

,AERIS

p.64 p.8

green is goodGordon Gekko greed is good-

20089 -

GFC

Hello readers, and welcome to AERIS autumn issue!

For too long, the idea of being green

has been isolated from the idea of being

fashionable. And when finally seen as

fashionable, it has often been only for a

moment. This September a time of new

beginnings and the January of fashion

we hope to unite the two in a more enduring

way.

Thinking about the rest of the planet and

how much we really need to be happy

goes beyond a trend. From our diet (as we

explore in our vegetarian debate, on p. 64),

to our wardrobe (as Christina Dean, Redress

Founder, explains on p. 8), sustainability is

a way of life.

The theme green is good, is a play

on the words of Gordon Gekko in Wall

Street: greed is good. Since the 1980s, the

latter was perhaps more fashionable. From

conditional development aid to the dawn

of derivatives, the world saw widespread

deregulation, growing debt and (often

premature) market liberalisation to the

advantage of the most powerful players in

the wealthiest countries.

The philosophy prevailed until September

2008, when greed failed the world and the

Global Financial Crisis began. Four years

later, people everywhere from boutiques

in New York, to factories in Shenzhen are

still coping with the consequences.

Yet only in darkness, do we see the

stars. For the first time since the end of

World War II, people of every nation are

bound by shared pain, but also shared

determination, to never repeat what led

us here. In the post-GFC era, greed can no

longer hide behind glamour.

After decades of disregard, green could

be the one style that stays

Xo caroline and Grace

8

reDressiNGcONsUmerism

Adrienne chiu talks to redress Founder christina Dean about why fashion and sustainability need not be mutually

exclusive concepts and why it is more economical to be environmentally chic

9PERSPECTIVE

2007

EspritR RR

R

What led you to create redress? Why did you decide to focus on Asia?When I moved to Asia with my husband and family, I was looking at the pollution with very virgin eyes. I was massively concerned, and as a result set up a charity in 2007. Previously we were called Green2Greener, but my initial concept for the organisation was not what it is today. The reason we started Redress was because the fashion industry is so significant in China and such a vast amount of pollution comes from that one industry. It seemed more effective to streamline our approach to just one industry and do it well, than try to focus on everything.

esprit is the first retailer to use the r certificate what is the next step for getting individual designers and larger retailers to adopt it?The R Certificate is definitely one of the best things we do because it makes something massively complex fabulously easy for consumers to understand. We are talking to some very big retailers about using it, but nothing is confirmed yet because its a long, complex process to work with a new brand. However the feedback has been quite mind-blowing in terms of what it could do for the industry, but obviously it hasnt happened yet. For small designers its not really suitable because there is a minimum size and order, smaller than which its not worth it because they have to collect and recycle their own waste.

Which material will have the largest impact and the largest growth recycled fibres or sustainably grown cotton?I think it has to be a combination of the two. We did a survey last year on international designers and buyers attitudes towards sourcing sustainable textiles from China. They thought that the biggest emerging trend coming out of China would be recycled fibre as opposed to sustainable raw material fibre. I am much more fixated on recycled fibres, because I think that the technology is improving, the suppliers are producing really good fabrics, and its a great way to clean up the industry. The only problem is when you combine or confuse pre-consumer waste thats recycled and post-consumer waste thats recycled. You cannot mix the two I feel very strongly about that because theres a huge hygiene issue there. It was one reason we created the R Certificate to strongly differentiate between pre- and post-consumer.

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images courtesy of redress

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PERSPECTIVE

Not all retailers are vertically integrated with their own exclusive manufacturing plants and material sources what are the challenges in convincing independent factories in Asia to waste less?No one knows how much waste is actually created because theres no universal auditing for all factories to say how much waste theyre producing. From my understanding, factory owners collect their waste and sell it into a secondary market where the waste is used in what we think are less sustainable ways, for example downgraded into padding and made into mops. Thats fine because its still being used, which is very important environmentally, but the product made out of the waste will soon reach the end of its cycle.

What we need to do with that waste to overcome this challenge is to bring it back up the supply chain so that it becomes a more valuable material upcycling. If you look at that upstream approach, it may soon be supported by legislation. There are ripples of concern throughout the industry that Chinas government is going to crack down on energy and water usage by factories. A supplier or factory will say we are trying to green ourselves to be ready for strict government regulations.

So, the answer to your question: the fear of government intervention motivates some people to do something now.

Aside from supporting the industry to produce less waste (which is always economical), in what ways can being eco-friendly be economical for the individual? Hard economic times are a great thing for the landfill. People spend less. They can save money by reinventing the clothes that they have in their own wardrobe mending, repairing, and tailoring. Today, we consume roughly 60 percent more than we did ten years ago because the cost of clothing is cheaper, so you can buy more. In Hong Kong alone, we throw 234 tons of textiles into the landfill every day and 71 percent is from domestic collection points.

We did a challenge a few months ago. Its called the 15-30 challenge. It was a blogger who did it and we tried to get loads of people involved. You were allowed to pick 15 items in your wardrobe to wear for 30 days. The concept behind it was to realign yourself with what you actually need versus what you dont need. The people who did do it thought it was really powerful because you realise just how much money and space is wasted in your wardrobe.

1060%23471%

15-3015

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EspritPatagoniaH&MLevis

Aeris magazine interview with christina Dean of redress by Adrienne chiu

What tips do you have for people who want to make their wardrobe more eco-friendly?Reduce what you buy, donate what you dont wear and care for your clothes. Think seriously about whether you want to buy something avoid impulse buys. Get rid of what you dont wear and give it to charity shops. And change how you care for things. If you look at a pair of jeans and their supply chain, all the negative things the consumer does washing, drying, dry cleaning, ironing, bleaching account for half of their negative environmental impact. For all the water and electricity saved, its cheaper to wash your clothes only when you need to and it helps the colours and fabrics last longer.

Who do you think is setting a great example for supporting sustainable fashion?Of course I think Esprits great. Ive worked with them closely and have seen their conviction in what theyre doing. Patagonia is also very interesting because they have this take-back campaign. H&M is producing very style-driven clothing using sustainable fibres. Its a pioneering and very attractive fashion. Levis I think is brilliant because they do a lot of consumer education. Theyve taken the responsibility of being a brand into the mind as well as the wardrobe of their customers.

images courtesy of Adrienne chiu

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PERSPECTIVE

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WORLD

FiNDiNG NeverLAND, GLimPsiNG GUiLiN

where karst-stone mountains conceal glistening caves filled with gleaming gems, and sinuous rivers snake through jade-green valleys beneath cascading rice terraces

You might think you have landed in Peter Pans Neverland. But nestled in the mystical southwest Chinese province of Guangxi lies a treasure trove of uncanny resemblance: Guilin.

As you fly across this fairytale land, the first things you will see are the serpentine mountains. Round then slender, beautiful then strange, these ethereal mounds stretch to the sky and slide back to earth in just seconds.

tHe secret GArDeN BOUtiqUe HOteL yANGsHUO

1 7

While karst landscapes like these can be spotted occasionally in parts of Laos, formations of this scale remain unseen anywhere else. Try counting the mountains in Guilin, and you will never find the end of the horizon

The hills alone are worth the trip to this world, but they are just the beginning. Draw closer, and youll see waters as clear as crystal winding between them. Fish race and weeds swirl beneath the glassy surface, stirred only by bamboo rafts sweeping silently through and children lunging off cliffs into them.

Along these watery reflections is a land of endless beauty, where fears and cares are left behind.

WORLD

WHere tO stAytHe secret GArDeN BOUtiqUe HOteL, yANGsHUO ($)JiUXiAN viLLAGe NeAr yANGsHUO,yangshuosecretgarden.comWhile the holiday town of Yangshuo can be rowdy, the outskirts near the end of the Yu Long River are serene. A wonderful hotel nearby is the Yangshuo Secret Garden Boutique Hotel, which combines conservation of the local environment with preservation of ancient Qing Dynasty buildings and cultivation of the local community.

As soon as you enter the Secret Garden, the weight of the world disappears behind you. The air thickens with the scent of jasmine in their candle-lit courtyard beer garden with giant plants. Its a simple, tumbledown hotel on the outside, but beautifully adorned within, in a way that pays tribute to the heritage of this cluster of centuries-old buildings.

Faye and Ian the couple who run it are so relaxed that breakfast lasts all day, so guests can sleep in and actually feel on holiday, says Faye, a Yangshuo native. Their fresh mango juices are a wonderful way to wakeup, whatever the time of day. From banana pancakes, sizzling bacon, and lettuce and tomato sandwiches, to taro with pork ribs and river fish and pickles, they serve everything to the finest quality.

The Secret Garden is exclusive only by its hidden and more remote location (a 15 minute walk from the river and 6 kilometre bike ride from the centre of Yangshuo). Remarkably affordable, a night there ranges from 300-400 RMB and three nights with airport transfers, meals and two tours for two, cost just 4000 RMB.

FayeIanFaye

15300400 4000

1 8siLver cAve

1 9

tHiNGs tO DO iN GUiLiNWHeeL AND PADDLe. Yu Long River rafting from Dragons Bridge can be reached from the Secret Garden by bicycle, which can be hired for 15-30 RMB. We definitely recommend paying 30 RMB for a mountain bike, which sadly we did not have the foresight to do and suffered many treacherous bumps along the poorly maintained gravel paths. Once on the vine-covered stone arch bridge, buy a few bottles of local cold beer and fresh passionfruit, which they cut open and give you a spoon. Put your bikes on the raft and cruise down the river, stopping whenever you feel like plunging into the transparent water.

set sAiL. A Li River Sunset Cruise is absolutely non-negotiable in Guilin. The mountains along the Guilin-Yangshuo stretch are the highest and most spectacular in the area. As our rafting guide excitedly showed us, the legendary view around one bend is the exact image seen on a 20 RMB note. tAste West street. The notorious West Street in the heart of Yangshuo is bustling with buses and no place to get a good nights rest, so avoid staying there. But as a place to have a great meal or cocktail, its the place to be. We highly recommend 7th Heaven, which serves not only high-quality Western classics, but also delicious local fare including beer-fish, peppercorn beans and beef, along with Yangshuo roast duck (which is leaner than its Peking cousin). cLimB tHrOUGH cAves. Lose yourself in the glittering caves within the dramatic limestone mountains, where semiprecious stones sparkle at you in every colour enough to make you half expect Tinkerbell to suddenly dart through the darkness. The caves are conveniently halfway between Yangshuo and Guilin airport, making them an ideal stop on your last day. But be warned: they take at least 2 hours to walk through quickly, and the hundreds of winding steps are not for the faint-hearted. Nevertheless, the caves and underground lakes are irrefutably magical.

see tHe tHeAtre. Be a part of Guangxis magic in the audience of the Guilin open-air Night Show. Here, Guangxi women sing in technicolour robes as rainbow lights blaze the sky. Shows run daily.

rice terrAces. These breathtaking rice tiers are not easy to get to from Yangshuo, so these are only possible to do if you are making a longer trip. We were unable to visit this time, but hear they are deeply impressive and a tribute to the provinces agricultural, green economy.

WORLD

153030

20

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GettiNG tHere & AWAy:Guilin is just a 1-2 hour plane ride from Hong Kong, Guangzhou or Shanghai on China Southern Airlines or Hong Kong Airlines for between 1500 and 2000 RMB. Trains are also available from all three cities, if you have the luxury of time.

15002500

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sPectAcULAr sWeDeN

For the young traveller, scandinavia offers an inviting proposition with its rich history, famously warm people and stunningly pristine scenery. But despite its considerable natural advantages, the familiar cries of too far!, too cold!, or too expensive! often drown out the Nordic ambitions of many a traveller. What a shame

WORLD

by Dan Lim

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Andra Lnggatan Andra Lnggatan

As I found in Sweden, what lies in store for the traveller willing to just go that extra mile is so much more than a land of IKEA and gorgeous women (although both are very much in abundance).I began my trip with a visit to Gothenburg (Gteborg), the countrys historical shipping hub.Catching the train up to Gothenburg, I was immediately struck by the beauty of the countryside vast open fields set against the backdrop of a gorgeous blue sky, with towering wind power turbines dotting the scene They were a modern intrusion on the picturesque vista that somehow adds, rather than detracts from its charm, and serve as a constant reminder of the progressive, environmentally conscious outlook that Scandinavia is famed for.Swedens second largest city, Gothenburg exudes an alternative, sometimes gritty, vibe, exemplified in the colourful history of the locally notorious Andra Lnggatan. I was informed by an exceptionally friendly local with a chequered past of his own that this famous street was once the haven of local dockworkers looking to blow off steam after a hard days work. Home to such scores of bootleggers and brothels, prospective customers once had to hire walkers for the sole purpose of protection as they walked from the nearest square to their destination on the Andra Lnggatan!These days, however, the street has long since undergone the familiar transition from den of vice, to nerve centre of culture and cool. Today, it is packed with alternative fashion stores, live music and student bars, along with a smattering of erotic stores and clubs that serve as a reminder of its sordid past. However, the city also offers more than its fair share in more refined, contemplative pursuits.

LisBerGs rOLLercOAster

WORLD

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tHiNGs tO DO iN GOtHeNBUrG

With a convenient urban bike rental system, its easy to be an eco-friendly visitor by experiencing this intriguing city on two wheels. Furthermore, most of this green citys attractions are within walking distance. Here are a few highlights:

FreAk OUt UPsiDe DOWN. A major draw card of Gothenburg is Liseberg Swedens largest amusement park. It boasts a spectacular wooden rollercoaster along with dozens of other attractions for adrenalin seekers.

BrOADeN yOUr miND. The excellent Universarium Science Museum is impressively coordinated, with exciting and interactive exhibits that showcase Scandinavias intellectual, innovative side. Be ON A BOAt. Gothenburg is proud to have the worlds largest floating shipping museum The Maritime Museum with 19 ships. The worlds largest wooden ship also calls Gothenburg home. The ship is a splendid way to experience the Baltic Sea, not to mention envisage the Viking legends of centuries gone by sHOP sUstAiNABLy. Most eco-friendly shops are nestled within the lively Linngatan district. Look out for the Swedish denim outfitter Nudie (at Vallgaten 15), which increasingly uses organic cotton. The smaller side streets(which offer lower rents) are awonderful way ofdiscovering up-and-coming designers, from clothing tounique homewares and decor

eAt OrGANic. Half the fun of travel is in the tasting and Sweden offers no shortage of tempting treats. Most cafs will plate up classics such as flavoursomemeatballs and golden rsti baked potato, all made from local, organic produce. Opt for something equally authentic and more experimental at the organic Strmmingsluckan cafe (on Maginsgaten 17), like fresh herring with lingonberries. If you still have space, sample organic sourdough bread and cakes at Alvar and Ivar bakery (Kastellgaten 11).

Maritima 19

Linngatan Vallgaten 15 N u d i e

Maginsgaten 17 Strmmingsluckan Kastellgaten 11

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WHere tO stAytHe cLAriON HOteL, ODiNsGAtAN 6, GOtHeNBUrG ($$)www.clarionhotel.com/hotel-gothenburg-sweden-SE074The Clarion Hotel is an eco friendly hotel chain certified under the ISO-14001 environmental specification, with a complimentary organic breakfast, free light dinner buffet, fruit, coffee, daily newspaper and internet access. Its also conveniently located right next to Lisberg park and Nordstan Swedens biggest shopping district.

clar ion ISO-14001 Nords t an

WORLD

The myriad attractions of Gothenburg aside, for most travellers in Sweden the big attraction is the capital city, Stockholm. Set on a host of islands in the Stockholm archipelago, the city is simply gorgeous. Wonderfully historic marvels of architecture abound amidst impossibly blue water throughout the city.

The attractions in Stockholm are endless and part of the wonder is the feeling of discovery, as one amazing experience after another unfolds

(above)

kAyAkiNG iN stOckHOLm(left)

DrOttNiNGHOLms PALAce

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tHiNGs tO DO iN stOckHOLmcrUise stOckHOLms WAterWAys. For the more adventurous, I would recommend hiring a kayak for a couple of hours to experience the city from a completely different perspective on water. The citys vast and elegant waterways are very easy to navigate and without any strong currents even beginners like myself should have no problems avoiding an unplanned swimming expedition. Kayaks are available for hire throughout the city, including on Lngholmen a small, picturesque island in the middle of the city.

tAke A WALk DOWN OLD tOWN. One can, and should, simply walk around for hours around the old town, Gamla Stan, soaking up the atmosphere of the city. Old Town is an intoxicating mix of sharp, sleek modernity with centuries-old traditions and warm hospitality. The colourful urban vista and quaint cafes make it worth the crowds. mAke A rOyAL APPeArANce. Drottningholm Palace is a World Heritage Site not only for its breathtaking beauty, but also its important history. It is also the current royal residence of the Swedish monarchy, which sets it apart from even Versailles. Look out for the Court Theater and Chinese Pavilion. see scANDANAviAN BeAsts. Skansen, on Djurgrden island, is the worlds first open-air museum. It features all aspects of Swedish life and culture, from traditional Swedish wooden houses and Finnish settlements, to a fascinating mix of Nordic animals in their natural settings including reindeer and wolverines.

DJUrGrDeN. Djurgrden is also home to a host of other attractions and museums, including the resurrected wreck of a 17th century ship, now converted into a maritime museum (the Vasamuseet).

Get yOUr PHOtOGrAPHy FiX. The Fotografiska is home to some excellent contemporary photography exhibitions, as well as a design-lovers gift shop. Unwind afterwards at the museums fantastic restaurant

WHere tO stAy LNGHOLmeNs HOsteL ($) LNGHOLmsmUreN 20, 117 33 stOckHOLm,www.langholmen.com/en/hostel/abouthostel.aspxLngholmen was once the site of a prison. Now restored and renovated, the former prison is home to an excellent restaurant, conference centre and hotel/hostel. Guests stay in the converted (and much more comfortable) prison cells. If youre lucky you may even have the opportunity to stay in the prison museum, during which you might have the unique experience, like I did, of waking up to take a shower and finding a school tour group outside your door!

Langholmens

Gamla Stan

Drottingholm

Djurgrden Skansen

Djurgrden 1 7

Fotografiska

LANGHOLmeNs

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stOckHOLm city HALL stAtUe

GettiNG tHere & AWAy:Budget airlines Easyjet and Ryanair both fly direct to Stockholm from other major European cities, for about the price of a train fare.For the curious traveller, thisstylish and spotless Scandinavianland offers an abundance of carefree memories to be made... Skol!

Easy j etRyana i r

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Aeris tALks tO micHAeL WONG

AERIS Michael Wong

The humorous and humble actor, singer, brand merchant and pilot opens up about his collaboration with Italian leather brand Giorgio Fedon 1919, and how to be taken seriously in multiple industries, when you have many divergent talents

Giorgio Fendon

Giorgio FendonGiorgio Fendon

Giorgio FendonMWMWMWGiorgio Fendon

What led to your collaboration with the italian leather brand, Giorgio Fedon 1919? I had already considered starting my own brand and my manager contacted me and said we received a call from Giorgio Fedon 1919 and they would like to offer you store credit for their bags. I went to the IFC store to have a look and I thought, Oh wow they have nice accessories. When I came to the meeting to talk about the credit, I think it was less than two minutes into the conversation and I introduced the idea of creating an MW line by Giorgio Fedon 1919 and asked if they would be interested. We immediately organised a meeting for a weeks time and we talked about it. At that time I had already begun to develop the brand elements.

in what ways have you become more involved in the design process at Giorgio Fedon 1919?I guess you can say this is the first season for MW. And if you look at the other brands Im working with, theyre all consistent with each other. If you put all the products together from the brands Im working with they become an MW family of products. This first MW by Giorgio Fedon 1919 collection was simply bringing out the MW lifestyle. I encouraged each brand to allow a budget for the MW team to create a product campaign. These brand icons that you see on all the MW products represent the MW lifestyle, music, film, travel and accessories.

Having worked with the italian label, do you think in any cultural sense that italy and china are alike?I think China and Italy have similar values, like family. There is a sense of beauty and good quality growing in China. Our clients want to touch the leather and they can tell when its Italian. MW collection by Giorgio Fedon 1919 is made with

CULTURE

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2008

Han Choi20

Giorgio Fendon

genuine Italian leather and the clients can see it and feel it.

How can fashion partnerships in china be more enduring?I think you have to really build the relationship with the consumer, be sincere with them, the way you present your products to them, communicate that you care about their opinion. The most important thing is how the business is run, choosing the right partners. When you start, you need to look at the background of your partner to have the right infrastructure too.

you have had a lot of roles in your life, and there must have been some important turning points. How did you make your career choices?I started out in the entertainment business doing feature films. That was my main career. For me, anything I do, I want to have a professional approach, I want to make it the best possible. In 2008, a friend of mine who worked for a helicopter company hes a trombone player said, why dont you come and sit in with the big band. He knew I sang before, so I said yes and went along. Now I enjoy regular business in the music industry. In aviation for instance, helicopter flying, I decided to start training to get my private pilot licence. But I wanted to be professional, I wanted to pursue a commercial licence which is the next step. My ultimate goal is to have the opportunity to work as a commercial helicopter pilot.

One of the main purposes for me to build the MW Michael Wong brand is to be able to pass something on to my children, something thats sustainable, something that can be worked with create a foundation, a business that can serve its purpose to the family. I wanted to contribute as an entrepreneur in Hong Kong.

Among all the roles you have played in movies, which one did you like the most? How are you similar or different from that character?I liked this last role that I played. I waited twenty years to play this kind of character. Its the character of Han Choi. Hes an obsessive, eccentric opera singer and well known in the art world. The whole story revolves around a murder. It was a great supporting role. There are some similarities with me. Theres a dark side. I have my own demons. I can be quite obsessive sometimes, though not to the same extent as him.

in real life you have different jobs which one do you like doing the most and why?Theyre all interrelated now. Ive brought everything into the brand. This new venture with Giorgio Fedon 1919 is such a great experience. Its fun work. If I had to do this for 24 hours a day, I would still love it. I enjoy the process and the work. I dont have to struggle getting out of bed for this.

What is your message to young chinese people today?Anything is possible, if you put your mind to it that is your own responsibility.

images courtesy of Giorgio Fendon.

3 2 rise

OF t

He BL

OGGe

rhttp://www.dressmeblog.me

the boundaries of journalism are lurching forward, as a new generation of observers go viral. they dont broadcast, or print. Nor do they televise. they do employ multimedia - and in doing so, theyre employing themselves. they write what they like, with opinion over objectivity (unlike their counterparts in newsrooms). they get the same red carpet treatment as celebrities at almost every event. And in many cases, they hold the power of persuading todays public. so what exactly is a blogger - and whats a day in their working life really like? We met four of chinas rising online personalities, to find out...

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CULTURE

,

JasmineBufferWordpressBufferPhotoshop,

Did you always enjoy writing?Yes I have kept a journal since such a young age and wrote in it religiously! In high school, English always played a huge part in my academic timetable and if you ever as a friend received an email from me, you would have had to prepare yourself for a novel of a correspondence!

In your view, how is a blogger different from a writer?All writers are different. Someone who follows a blogger is after highly opinionated, easy to digest writing that offers an intimate taste of a particular industry whereas a journalist has alternative viewpoints and facts to include.

Can you run us through A day in the life of Jasmine, from the time you wake up until you go to bed?7am wake up, shower, dress, coffee, computer! Set up all my Social Media platforms (personal & corporate emails, Facebook, Buffer, Wordpress). Go through them one by one, responding or lining up posts. I post a blog in the morning, another at lunch and again in the evening, making sure it is re-posted on Facebook, added to my Buffer account for Twitter later, and that the brands PR company is notified. I always have photos to edit on Photoshop for my blogs and I write for a number of other sites, which takes up a lot of my day. I meet with designers, websites, brand managers and PR companies, so midday coffees are usually scheduled. The day would never be complete without some brand launching a new range or item, so Im often at fashion events. Between all this, Ill be taking photos of what Im wearing that day and replying to tweets on public transport, filling up time so Im never really sitting still The domestic side of me makes sure dinner is ready for my fianc and I, which often means a quick dash to the supermarket. The gym is not in as much as I would like, but its in there!

In China many are blogging for potential perks. What are your views on this?Brands should equip only professional, specifically picked bloggers with their news. And bloggers need to think hard about who they represent. Its not a free platform to advertise on its a platform to speak directly to a particular niche. If the brand suits the reader, perfect! If not, forget the free merchandise and reserve that space for a brand that resonates with your readership.

Name:

Jasmine Webster

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Name:

elle Lee

MSN

ElleInstagramPinterest, ViddyiPadFlipboard

Did you enjoy writing growing up?Yes, not to sound too nerdy. I was the kid who loved writing contests (and winning some of them). Growing up in Shanghai, I began my own blog on MSN Space when I was 10, until my parents started scrutinising my content everyday. I was also writing travel and fashion pieces for magazines in China.

What inspires you?I love sharing experiences. When I was young I travelled a lot and was able to appreciate many different cultures. I had the opportunity to meet amazing people and enjoy the world in many aspects. I know I am lucky, so I wanted to share with people who might not be able to experience the same.

Can you run us through A day in the life of Elle, from the time you wake up until you go to bed?I wake up and check my social media: Instagram, Weibo, Twitter, Pinterest, Viddy and the list goes on Then I get a Venti Americano without milk to get the day started. I usually have meetings in the morning or over lunch with fashion brands and PR companies, catching up with what they are doing and how we can collaborate. In the afternoon, I do fashion shoots, blog or do social media consultancy work for fashion brands. I try to spare one afternoon a week to go for a jog along the sea wall, or up to The Peak. In the evening, I attend events or catch up on current events with the Flipboard app on my iPad. And I am online throughout the day on my iPhone.

In China many are blogging for potential perks. What are your views on this?This is a broader media issue. I think the best is to stay unbiased when it comes to writing. If you are getting paid to do a feature on your blog, then state clearly that its a sponsored feature.

http://elleiconlee.com/

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CarloKonzepp,Konzepp

Did you enjoy writing as a kid?I loved creative writing. I would get so caught up in writing stories that I wouldnt hear my Mum calling for me! As I grew up my attention shifted to other creative endeavors like drawing, painting, design and fashion. It was only when I began my style blog that I really gained an interest in writing again

How is a blogger different from a writer?I guess the main difference is that a writer is just that a writer. A blogger can be a writer, photographer, stylist, artist, social commentator or any number of things. Its a form of social expression through words or imagery.

What inspires you?The inspiration guiding my blog is my love of styling and how it can reflect different personalities, not only my personal-ity but also those of the models featured which people dont normally get to see.

Can you run us through a day in the life of Carlos, from the time you wake up until you go to bed?Apart from blogging, I am also a fashion stylist and curator for a lifestyle space called Konzepp, so from day to day it really varies. I usually head to the gym in the morning before work. The majority of my day is at the Konzepp Lab. Once there, Im researching new trends, designers and products for the space, which helps my styling projects too. After work, if Im not at home with my girlfriend we would head out for dinner and drinks with friends. The days I have a photo shoot, my day is 100% focused on that. I would be collecting garments, putting looks together, shooting, and sometimes returning the pieces on the same day. I love styling, even though it is really labour-intensive. With so much running around, I usually end the day by going home and chilling on the couch!

CULTURE

Name:

carlo Aquinohttp://pronouncedstyle.blogspot.hk/

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Name:

kingchan

Susie BubbleBryant Boy ---

5

---

From your perspective, what does it take to have a compelling blog?A style of your own with individual and constructive point of views. It shouldnt be all about me, me and me! A lot of bloggers are eager to be another Susie Bubble and Bryanboy in the shortest time possible to get attention, forgetting what message they would like to deliver. Gradually they lose their identity and style of being a blogger. So high quality content that isnt just about you is essential to keep readers looking forward for your next publication. What inspires you?A meal with great company and conversation inspires me the most, by sharing each others experiences in life.

Do you write something new everyday?Keeping up with 5 different posts daily except Saturday and Sunday. I ensure I have enough on standby so when I go on a vacation, the dates are set and its published automatically!

How much time would you say you spend finding content offline, versus online?I spend more time on getting to know what is already out there. The same subject delivers different messages to the receiver it all depends on the way you are looking at it.

http://www.my-lifestyle-news.com/

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From mild humidity to swirling typhoons, embrace the untamed season of september with animal patterns and earthy tones. Disha Daswaney shares her top picks.Disha Daswaney

OyO sieNNA scArF (tHe 9tH mUse)HKD 750Orange is a striking trend for fall this year and warms up skin tones, too.

PiNk cOLLAr BLOUse (sHOP Des crAteUrs) By ANteLLeHKD 790 A pop of bright pink on the collar emulates the trend of detailed collars for this fall, adding fun detail to this classic shirt.

FALL FOr WOmeN

rUst FAN NeckLAce By tAArA (sHOP Des crAteUrs) HKD 700This distinctive, deep red necklace incorporates formal Asian flare to instantly dress up a simple outfit. .

BAttery PArk AsymmetricAL BOW FeLt HAt (kAte sPADe)HKD1200 There is always a reason to protect against UVA and UVB rays, and this neutral hat makes for a charming pre-fall accessory with its black, contrasting bow.UVAUVB

LOUise PUrse viNtAGe (tHe 9tH mUse)HKD 1500This classic purse has a striking circular shape to make a statement at any occasion.

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DESIGN

emBrOiDereD DUPiONi qiPAO (sHANGHAi tANG) HKD 4980Shanghai Tangs latest Dragon Plateau A/W collection is inspired by Tibetan highlands and a return to nature with savage beauty. This Floral Embroidered Silk Dupioni Qipao is in the key colour of the season burgundy.Shanghai Tang

FeAtHer qUiLt LeAtHer tOte BAG BLAck (sHANGHAi tANG)HKD 5295The unique phoenix feather print and jade detail add understated elegance to this funky bag. The storage space is ideal for carrying daily essentials and extra layers.

LerOy sUNGLAsses (tHe 9tH mUse)HKD 1680These chic sunglasses can be worn casually and elegantly on those rare sunny Septem-ber days.

LeiDeN LeeNA FOrest GreeN HeeLs(By kAte sPADe)HKD 3100Evoke the secrecy of the forest in these green suede shoes with a sinuous snakeskin heel.

resiN iPHONe cAse LeOPArD ikAt (kAte sPADe)HKD 380 With a resurgence of leopard prints, be la mode and accessorise your phone with this timeless feline accent.

iPhone

tHe 9tH mUse

www.the9thmuse.comsHOP Des crAteUrs

www.shopdescreateurs.comsHANGHAi tANG

www.shanghaitang.comkAte sPADe

www.katespade.com

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FALL FOrmeN

BicycLe cUFFLiNks (sHANGHAi tANG) HKD 546A major theme for fall 2012 is nostalgia. These cufflinks perfectly embody this theme and should be worn with a dark shirt to complete the look.

LAPtOP cAse NAvy (sHOP Des crAteUrs)HKD 477This sleek, retro laptop case has an element of class with its leather belt.

veLvet JAcket (sHANGHAi tANG) HKD 6500Burgundy is the leading colour for fall this year. Get the latest look with this plush Cotton Velvet Jacket with Black Piping.

HArris street sUNGLAsses NAtUrAL (sHOP Des crAteUrs)HKD 1330The neutral colour of the sunglasses and the thick frame infuse natural masculinity with these blue lenses.

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DESIGN

ZiPPereD PULLOver WitH cONtrAst trim-Grey (sHANGHAi tANG)HKD 1036A touch of pink on this 100% cottonknit charcoal pullover transforms this grey. This smart pullover can be easily worn over a shirt and tie.

stAr meNs WALLet (sHANGHAi tANG)HKD 780This wallet has plenty of compartments and incorporates the classic communist star in a salute to retro chic.

smALL FOUNtAiN & street siLk scArF (sHOP Des crAteUrs)HKD 650As scarves of all sizes are the most fashionable accessories for this season, this small scarf can be worn with a shirt for a younger feel.

UNyOUsUAL www.unyousual.com/ tHe 9tH mUsewww.the9thmuse.comsHOP Des crAteUrswww.shopdescreateurs.comsHANGHAi tANGwww.shanghaitang.comGiOrGiO FeDONwww.giorgiofedon1919.it

messeNGer BAG (GiOrGiO FeDON)HKD 2900Messenger bags are the new day bags in mens fashion. This young executive design accommodates a 13-inch laptop, and has a front pocket for extra space. The striking orange colour is made for men who want to be different.13

3D cONcierGe WOOD PAtterN (UNyOUsUAL)Case 299 HKD, 3Dconcierge Printing 199 HKD The dark wood finish on the iPhone case creates an extraordinary wood pattern, every crevice carefully carved.iPhone

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?

When did you realise your love of photography?Ever since I discovered the shocking and beautiful ways in which fashion encounters photography, Ive been attracted to its infinite possibilities and made every effort to turn the images in my mind into reality.

Did your family support your dream?I was not born into a wealthy family. I lived in temporary huts when I was a child. But I feel lucky that my family is healthy, and even though times were hard, they never opposed my personal goals. I really appreciate what they did for me. And as the eldest son in the family, Im responsible for giving them a better life.

What was your childhood like?I was introverted and silent. I was not good at communicating, and always kept my thoughts inside. I have to muster a lot of courage to start a conversation with strangers. But when others break the ice and start a conversation, I will speak freely. To this day, I want to be more proactive, to meet different people, but I just dont know how to express myself in words. But thanks to my shyness, I can translate my feelings into images, and realise them through the camera.

A Hong kong photographer who grew up in temporary housing and went on to conquer the fashion world. the shy fashion photographer shares what images mean to him and what it takes to start a successful creative business at a young age, against all odds.

CULTURE

Aeris tALks tO ricky LO

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your images are highly poetic, yet with incredible attention to detail. Are you a free spirit when it comes to composition, or is everything carefully controlled?I would say both. After being inspired, Ill list and plan every detail, such as makeup, hair design, props and stage set every detail needs to be perfectly done. When we begin to shoot, well share the idea with our models, making resonance with the scene and environment. What we show to the audience are not commercial photos, but works of art with emotion and resonance.

your style is very romantic. Have you ever been inspired by the 18th century period-specific romantic writers or artists? Yes. In art genres, I pay special attention to works of the 18th century Romantic period. Their intense drama really influenced me. Im extremely impressed by Thodore Gricaults The Raft of the Medusa. Of course, after the research and obser-vation, Ill combine the sense and concepts of beauty, forming my own style.

in what ways do you feel your work reflects both your chinese heritage and your Westernised upbringing in Hong kong?Chinese art has many merits that we should appreciate and study. In particular, Chinas craftsmanship is breathtakingly delicate. Chinese creativity forces me to understand that every

. 1818Thodore Gr icaul tThe Raft of the Medusa

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CULTURE

detail will influence the whole picture Be it the colour of the lips or nail polish, all the aspects should be paid close attention. This means Im very persistent in my work, and detail-oriented. At the same time, Im nurtured by Western fashion and culture, which opens my mind and breaks conventional limitations. In the West people dare to dream big, and through this mentality, my works are given wings so detailed realism can meet with fantasy and dreams.

Do you ever tell yourself well done? Are you ever happy with your own work or is it a constant quest for perfection?Im confident in my work, but I will not tell myself well done, because this will only stop my progress. When a new project begins, I strive to go beyond my previous standard. I not only apply this to photography, but also to my philosophy of life. I have a purpose, to always believe you can make it better, to believe I can achieve something more and have a clear target, so Im more motivated to meet my goal.

How has digital editing changed the medium? Do you think a photo is less sincere if its heavily edited, or is it more imaginative?Thanks to the convenience and popularity of the SLR camera, many people now call themselves photographers, and peoples opinions about photographers have changed. I believe that

tHe PHOtO itseLF Be it A mOmeNt iN time, Or AN emOtiON yOU cAPtUre is tHe esseNtiAL eLemeNt.

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a r t d i r e c t i o n

the skills of photo modification can surely improve the image, making it more realistic and breathtaking. I dont think it takes away from the truth of it. But that said, you need excellent shooting skills, rich experience and unique art direction. Photo modification cannot make up for the photo, it can only be used as a tool to improve it. The photo itself be it a moment in time, or an emotion you capture is the essential element.

What was the landmark moment that made you realise this was more than a hobby for you, that photography was a career?Before I started university, I was determined to become a fashion photographer. I took a job as an assistant photographer while I was a full-time university student to improve my skills. By the time I was in my sophomore year, I set up my own photography company. Now, our main clients are in the fashion advertising industry.

Do you have any tips for aspiring photographers? Be loyal to your originality, and find your own concept and comprehension about beauty through your attempts and failures. In addition, build your own team, which should be reliable and trustworthy, including a great make-up artist and hair stylist. Also, to achieve success tomorrow, sacrifices must be made today. Ive given up most of my leisure time in exchange for what I have now. No one knows what the result will be for trying, but success will not come to you unless you do try.

What is the main difference between young people in the chinese mainland versus young people in Hong kong? When I talk with young Mainlanders, I feel that they have clear goals, they know what they are learning and trying, theyre preparing for their destination. On the contrary, young people in Hong Kong have different opinions, sometimes they are not clear about the goal, making it harder to make a decision. But the longer they consider, the more experience they will have to help them. There is no right or wrong, only differences in how you face and deal with decisions Im lucky to be young in Hong Kong, setting a goal early on and perhaps saving more time than others did.

tO AcHieve sUccess tOmOrrOW, sAcriFices mUst Be mADe tODAy. ive given up most of my leisure time in exchange for what i have now. No one knows what the result will be for trying, but success will not come to you unless you do try.

CULTURE

images courtesy of ricky Lo

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Taking pride in its 70-year tradition of manufacturing Pilots Watches, IWC Schaffhausen was inspired by Antoine de Saint-Exupry and his journey in the revolutionary times of early aviation in 1912. Celebrating this achievement 100 years later, IWC launched a Pilot Watch series to mark the anniversary.

This exclusive father-son watch collection demonstrates the passing of a cherished watch from one generation to the next. Both feature a beautiful alligator strap holding the rhodium-plated dial together, which has been carefully encased into a stainless steel case. With epitome Swiss attention to detail, both faces are made of sapphire glass with antireflective coating on the rhodium-plated dial.

The subtle differences between the father and sons watches symbolise the independence of each. The larger fathers watch (diameter 46mm, height 16mm) builds up a power reserve up to 168 hours, and its caliber movement is generally faster. The sons watch is smaller (diameter 39mm, height 11mm), with a power reserve up to 42 hours.

Big Pilots Watch for Fathers 140,000 HKD* Pilots Watch Mark XVI for Sons 40,000 HKD* http://www.iwc.com/en/collection/pilots/

70IWC SchaffhausenAntoine de Saint-Exupry1912100IWC

(4616)168(3911)42

140,00040,000http://www.iwc.com/en/collection/pilots/

WAtcHes OF tHe WOrLDThe watchmaking industry has drastically grown since the 1900s when Louis Cartier created the first watch for men. Since then the watch industry has become one of the largest in luxury. From early beginnings in France, the watch industry expanded to Switzerland, which, with its sleek precision and technical competitiveness, became the worlds biggest watch manufacturer.

20

sWitZerLAND

Today, watch creation is expanding into less conventional parts of the world, inspiring young designers such as Agni Tilla from Latvia an up-and-coming eastern European country and former Soviet state, now renowned for its creative flair. In February 2010, Agni created her own watch line, May 28th a fun, young, unisex watch brand.

May 28th reflects unique watches inspired by sharp patterns, bright colours, geometrical shapes and patterns derived from nature and textiles. In particular, the Japanese quartz movement influenced these watches.

This distinctive 08:30AM watch (RMB 290.7) can be spotted from a mile away with its minimalistic and sophisticated design. This affordable watch also boasts a black plastic water resistant strap. Find more of Agnis May 28th designs at: www.shopdescreateurs.com

Agni Tilla20102Agni528

528

0830290.7Agni528www.shopdescreateurs.com

This year, watchmaking has spread from Europe, to East Asia. After studying business in Shanghai, Adrien Choux went on to launch Chinas first watch, christening it The Chinese Time Keeper or CTK. The Frenchmans deep passion for Chinese culture and history is evident in all aspects of its conscientious design.

Timekeeping in China traces back thousands of years to the Shang Dynasty (1600BC1100BC), when days were divided by the shifting of light. Evoking the architecture of an ancient pagoda, the case of a CTK comprises four rings of stainless steel 316L, held together by four large screws on the bezel.

Priced at 23,614 RMB, the CTK14 Three Hands Automatic Jade model includes 10 beats of pure Burmese Jade, giving optimal contrast and visibility against the clean white face. The design exudes Chinese identity with the signature + for 10 and logo of the Chinese horologist Su Song, who invested the first astronomical clock in 1088AD.

This thoughtful watch has a stainless steel base and sapphire crystal antireflective coating, with a power reserve of 36 hours. For more information, see: thechinesetimekeeper.com

Adrien Choux CTK

(16001100)CTK

23,614CTK1410+108836www.thechinesetimekeeper.com

DESIGN

LAtviA

cHiNA

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etsyetsy

www.secondhand.hk

www.iconlady.com/webnew/eng/handbag.php

market.swap.com

etsyIf youre looking for a unique handmade pieces, Etsy is the most popular source for craft supplies and handmade products. Feeling crafty? You can also sell your own handmade items here, which might score you a few good deals too (free jewellery, for example).

secONDHAND.Hkwww.secondhand.hkSavvy fashionistas can check this site for designer items, at knockoff prices.

reNt A DesiGNer BAGwww.iconlady.com/webnew/eng/handbag.php Need a wardrobe update on a budget? IconLady offers various world-class designer bags for rent. Say goodbye to saving months of earnings to buy it full price!

sWAP.cOmmarket.swap.comSwap last seasons items with people from around the world, through exchanges from graphic design to shoes. Swap the jacket that you never wear for new shoes and reduce what you throw away forever.

tHe Aeris reDUce, reUse & recycLe FAsHiON GUiDe,By Agnes Haryuni

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DESIGN

What sparked your desire to launch recycled Paper Frames (rPF)?Magazines, newspapers, old photos, comics and leaflets that are thrown away Being aware that millions of tons of waste paper are being burned or buried each year, my heart was broken seeing all these colorful creative works being lost. I wanted to prolong the life of these materials, so people could appreciate the effort behind them for longer. Its a form of upcycling recycling materials to create something more valuable.

How are they produced?I use the recycled paper to decorate display boxes and glasses frames. This can only be achieved by hand. Each pair is carefully wrapped with image paper, covered with a multilayer of protective coating and then polished at least 3 times. Its an original method that weve patented.

is it cheaper or more costly to apply such a production process? It is more costly, as it is a labor-intensive process to finish a pair of frames by hand.

Aeris talks Frames with simON cHimm, the man behind rPF Recycled Paper Frames about the fashion that reduces, rather than creates, waste

RPF)

Aeris(RPF),simON cHimm

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Being aware that millions of tons of waste paper are being burned or buried each year, my heart was broken seeing all these colorful creative works being lost.

i wanted to prolong the life of these materials, so people could appreciate the effort behind them for longer.

Are they water-resistant?Yes, thanks to the protective coating they work in any weather.

is there a chinese influence in your designs?Yes, along with some German and Italian inspiration, for instance in the ZEISS 100 collection. As a Hong Kong-born Chinese, I have always been enthusiastic about seeing products manufactured in China and distributed worldwide. My collections leverage that tradition of craftsmanship and incorporate Chinese design sensibilities. Many frames are Made in China, but a brand creatively conceived in China is still less common.

What are the benefits of designing and manufacturing in china?Being in China creates shorter lead times between design and manufacturing. This allows for better quality control, faster adaptation and more interaction between design and manufacture.

What does rPF represent?I see each pair as a piece of art capturing life with better vision, but also metaphorically opening our eyes to our world using the most striking images taken throughout the last century. Its also about achieving maximum visual effect, while being environmentally responsible.

Where can we get a pair?Currently, you can only buy them in Europe and through me in Asia.

What are your plans for the future?To continue to create a lot of personal and one-of-a-kind frames by using this special technique. Im trained as a sculptor so I would also love to create more recycled paper furniture and recycled paper ceramics.

ZEISS100

RPF

DESIGN

images courtesy of recycled Paper Frames

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5 5Aeris_cina_420x297_JSN06.indd 1-2 06/08/12 08:32

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etHAN Li:DANciNG WitHiN A LeNs

even though it was midnight, i knew the man at the end of the corridor was ethan Li. He sticks out in any light with his ease and confidence. With a simple shirt, jeans and satchel, he looks more like a student on campus than a film star. Feel free to ask me anything, just treat the interview as friends chatting, he said. He pulled up a chair for me and broke the ice before i began.

Sitting in the dark light, his eyes showed a little fatigue. As the conversation progressed, the 30-year-old slowly released his maturity. At times, he looked up and laughed with the charm of Prince Guo. His straight-talking words can come off as shocking, but his honesty and self-confidence are refreshing. On why he chose Beijing Film Academy, he said: Initially, it was in part attributed to a little vanity

Ethans father was a pilot in the East China Sea Fleet. He grew up in the army, influenced to become as tough a man as a soldier. His mother is from Zhengzhou, Henan, where he attended high school. It was also where he began university majoring, perhaps unexpectedly, in computer science before enrolling in the Beijing Film Academy.

, .

PERSPECTIVE

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In the entrance exam, Ethan read Xu Zhimos immortal poem Saying Goodbye to Cambridge Again and won the judges over, receiving an offer to study there. But he soon realised the need to make up for his lack of performance experiences To give up all my old bad habits, devoting myself fully for performing study To perform well, experience is every-thing. Reading and rehearsing. Countless films and books later, he found his confidence. Soon, whenever a movie crew came to campus, Ethan would present at the lecture.

He didnt come home even during summer and winter holidays, searching for opportunities to act in commercials and accumulate flying hours in front of the camera. From 2005 to now was the period that I grew up fast. During these years, I didnt come home to my parents for more than a week at a time, he recalled soberly. Getting started is the hardest step but once you have started, it will be much easier.

05

Aeris: your thesiss title is tO DANce WitH A sHAckLe. can you explain why you chose it and its meaning?ethan: The lens is a frame, so you cannot act without caring where the lens is. The frame of the lens is limited and you should perform within that limitation, to test ones performing abilities. Acting is the basic command, but the highest standard of actors should not be acting, but whether you actually are that character, and whether the character is yourself. The lowest standard of an actor is acting.

Aeris: Prince Guo in tHe LeGeND OF cONcUBiNe ZHeN HUAN looks so natural. How did you prepare for it and how would you evaluate yourself?ethan: Id give myself 7 out of 10. I didnt perform well in the beginning, but then I found the feeling and performed better and better I read the original story, but reading is only the first step. This story pursues the real emotion, and while handsome at first, bends to vicissitude in the end.

Aeris: :

Aeris: : 70

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Aeris: can you really play the flute?ethan: I sure can. For the authenticity of my playing the flute, I went to buy one from a professor. There are specific gestures to hold the flute. It should look like you really play it.

Aeris: if you perform perfectly, the character you play might become your persona to audiences how do you feel about that?ethan: I dont mind being Prince Guo forever. He is a part of me. Some one asked me what was the greatest harvest for me was in Zhen Huan. I think the harvest is that after years people will still remember Prince Guo. Maybe other characters I perform would not be remembered, but this character makes me remembered. The legacy transcends money Actors should leave something in audiences minds. Of course, I hope my performance in other roles would be as satisfying!

Aeris: :

Aeris: :

PERSPECTIVE

GettiNG stArteD is tHe HArDest stePBUt ONce yOU HAve stArteD, it BecOmes eAsier tO FiND yOUr OWN PAce.

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Aeris: What if this label affects your other roles and narrows your range?ethan: I believe not. Many honoured actors, like Chen Daoming, Jiang Wen, and some promising actors like Wen Zhang and Deng Chao, have successfully performed several roles of differ-ent types. If you believe it would make my role narrow, thats because you havent seen my other work.

Aeris: How does the character of Xu Haifeng in your new film tHe GUN OF XU HAiFeNG differ from Prince Guo? ethan: I believe my performance of Xu Haifeng was better than Prince Guo. There were many values in my mind during my study of Xu. I was genuinely shocked by his fighting spirit. For example in his Olympic notes, his record was close to second. I realised that men who want success must be cruel to themselves. They must have unyielding self-control and devotion to their work. In addition, the cast of the movie was young, and the director did not want to impose his opinion. Because of the timeline of the story, I gained more than 10 kilos in the film. The real Xu Haifeng gave me a

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FreeDOm is AN ABiLity

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positive evaluation of the performance that was the greatest relief to me.

Aeris: How do you handle your freedom and privacy after finding fame?ethan: Freedom is an ability. I dont feel any change after becoming famous. I will not change my life for the sake of appeasing others opinions. Everyone should leave himself a private space to talk to himself, because only you yourself know exactly what your reality is. Performances should be expressive, so you should firstly perform honestly.

Aeris: What if your privacy is violated? ethan: Others entertainment is none of my business. I live my own life. If you care about what everyone else thinks all the time, it only proves you arent strong enough. You can never please the world. That said, I care about the view of people I love. A man should protect his relationship, not flaunt it casually. I think of Andy Lau as a good example. He protects what he cherishes.

Aeris: recently you have been performing Paper marriage in shenzhen, a teleplay on the marriage of young people What is your view about marriage?ethan: I think marriage cannot be good or bad, but it can be appropriate or inappropriate. Falling in love is much easier than living together. This teleplay shows how marriage is the combination of two families. There are the conflicts between tradition and modernity, and different environments can bring out different characters in two people. The values of our parents generation are so different from the values we wrestle with today For example, contradictions between wives and mothers-in-law would certainly exist. Sharing similar views on life and cultural values is extremely important. In my view, relationships with complementary characters usually last longer.

Aeris: Have you achieved your life goal?ethan: My short-term goal is to perform well in my teleplays. I must improve in many aspects. Actors should also be supplied, so I want to take a break from films for a while and develop myself. I havent achieved to my goal yet. Life is a long way, and my career is only the first step. Perhaps the most brilliant moment is in ones 50s or 60s I have a long way to go.

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the night crept on and as the interview finished, ethans answers had broken down my preconceptions. Free because he has lived constrained. Honest because of his privacy.

Dancing within a lens, without leaving marks. you dont need to ask what role he is playing he is playing himself.

.

images courtesy of ethan Li

every LAst GrAiN...

Aeris talks to charlotte Hwang, Foodlink Operations Director, about the cultural causes of food waste in china and how it can be solved.

AerisFoodlink charlotte Hwang

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How did the idea for Foodlink come about?My mother was eating with her friends at a restaurant where leftovers were bountiful. They decided to do something about it in 2001. Watching the homeless take food from dumpsters was a sight my mother couldnt let go of. She insisted on doing something about it, and began collecting from hotels where she had contacts.

How hard is it to find food donors and how easy is it to save food from going bad?It was quite easy to find donors, considering we have some board members who are involved in or are well connected to the hospitality industry. It is always a concern for hotels when food hygiene is brought up. We have a liability waiver, which can cover us legally in the case of someone becoming unwell. All foods are fresh and edible when picked up be it fruits, seafood, or noodles. We ask the hotel to decide how to pack the goods up, provide containers, and deliver within an hour. Some foods are frozen and vacuum sealed (then to be boiled/heated up), some are packed (breads).

How much of the leftover food that is retrieved gets consumed?Foodlink collects 2,200kg of food per week.This goes towards 2,000 meals on average from Monday to Friday. Almost all of it is edible.

What is the biggest contributing factor to food waste in chinese cities?Banquets are a big problem. Chinese people dont mean to waste they treat their guests to save face. Weddings are also a terrible problem. Usually 4-5 courses is enough, but sometimes we see more than 10 courses on the menu, which is simply unnecessary.

What are your plans for china?We havent expanded there yet and are still working on our third van, which arrived last week. After that, our expansion plan is to maybe start in Shenzhen or Guangzhou and start with pastries.

Where do you see Foodlink in 5 years?Hopefully Foodlink can run on its own. Fundraising will be able to secure operations and Hong Kong residents will all know us as the main charity that collects leftover, good-to-eat food. Perhaps well have a fleet of drivers that individuals volunteer for. Foodlink is open to filling in the gap anywhere else. So long as there are dedicated volunteers and drive, a cause worthy enough to work to the end!

Lastly, how can more young people get involved?We have many young volunteers who donate their time and energy, but not so much monetary resources. We have hundreds of requests, which we are working on replying to and getting volunteers to be more hands on. This includes working a shift at a charity event, bringing friends to a rice-packing event, shooting a documentary or designing a graphic for us.

Fooklink2001

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veGetAriANism

Previously, vegetarians in my mind have always been religious people. But as material life grows ever more complex, I began to pursue a more natural lifestyle. Veg-etarianism has risen, and even become mainstream, from a desire to find simplicity again. Celebrities are also fur-thering the trend of vegetarianism, making it more famil-iar to everyone, not only the religious. Actress Barbie Xu, Oscar-winning actress Natalie Portman, and Olympic champion Serena Williams have all declared themselves as vegetarian.

As with all things, making alternative choices can be tough. While vegetarians promote their lifestyle, we also hear voices of disapproval. For example, nutritionists claim that the human body needs a comprehensive vitamin supply, especially for the young people, which a vegetarian diet cannot provide. So, should we become vegetarians?

More and more people are becoming vegetarians, but their reasons vary some for animal and environmental protection, some for a slim figure, others for health, and still many for religious beliefs. Unlike in the past, vegetarians today are increasingly well-educated and young. For many of them, its not only a lifestyle, but also a life attitude.

S

is it JUst A FAD Or A trUe ALterNAtive? Aeris PreseNts tHree PersPectives

cArOLiNesHANGHAi, Aeris cHiNA eDitOr

,

? Aeris

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Actually Im totally for the vegetarian diet, because it can protect the environment and animals, as well as keep me healthy and slim. Im only a half vegetarian because I need to intake some meat to balance my nutrition. Moreover, its hard to be a vegetarian in China since vegetarian restaurants are not common in China.

I think that the issue depends on your motivations, and that personal choice should be respected. My advice is if you are a firm vegetarian for ethnical and environmental reasons, I think it is worthy and commendable, but be careful to get adequate nutrition from other sources. Some of us struggle to give up meat, but still want to protect animals. In this case, I think just reducing the intake of meat is a great start. Im trying to do so right now! On the other hand, some girls just want to be vegetarian to lose their weight. In my opinion, they will eventually fail since their motivation is not deep enough, and if they go to extremes for weight-loss, they will harm their health.

Besides, since there are few vegetarian restaurants in China, we are not willing to make trouble for friends when they invite us for meals, so becoming fully vegetarian seems impossible. Thats why Im still a half vegetarian.

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mANDy

I neither oppose nor advocate the vegetarian diet, since what you eat depends on personal preference and choice. People should not advocate or oppose others diets. How-ever, a vegetarian diet is not always helpful.

Firstly, nature has its own food chain. As long as we dont eat the rare animals, and follow the rules of nature, we will not hurt the environment. Besides, are plants not creatures? Should we stop eating and drinking completely, in order to protect the environment? It is a matter of how we consume.

Additionally, livestock farming has become a huge industry, which has generated vast economic benefits and provided employment to millions of people around the world. If people stopped eating meat, the livelihoods of everyone in that industry would be lost.

Overall, I think the vegetarian diet has little benefit for the environment. There would also be a negative impact on the economy if everyone become vegetarians.

sHeNZHeN,

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DAviD

Im a vegetarian. Im influenced by my vegetarian friends and by literature. I once read a book that said we should regard the pain of all the creatures as the pain of ourselves. Thats why Ive become vegetarian. When you realise that the meat you eat comes from something so close to your own species, can you still eat it?

Some nutritional experts believe that vegetarians cannot have a balanced nutritional supply, but how can we hurt others to maintain our health? In fact, as we pay closer attention to our diet, and take health supplements and proteins to keep the balance, vegetarians can even be healthier than normal people.

Id like to share my own experience with you. Ive been healthier since I became a vegetarian. Ibe become more peaceful, patient and positive. I seldom get a cold, my stomach always feels good and I feel much stronger. The most interesting thing is, when my life becomes simpler, I enjoy it with extraordinary pleasure.

Being a vegetarian is beneficial both for you and other animals. Once you try, you will know it.

:

BeiJiNG cHiNA, Artist,

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The True meaning of life

is To planT Trees, under whose shade you do noT expecT

To siT.

nelson henderson

,

Garden leading on By Ann mei

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cHiNA's DistUrBiA Artists

When did you establish Affordable Arts Beijing (AAB)?Our first event was held in April 2006.

Why did you set up shop in Beijing?I was based in Beijing having moved back to the city in 2005 to working in publishing. At the time the art scene was really booming and there were galleries popping up all over the city. My office was in 798, which was the centre of the arts in China and very vibrant. Id spend my lunch times walking around galleries wishing I could afford some of the incredible art I saw. It was more luck than by design that I was already working in China in the heart of the countrys art centre and saw a huge gap in the market.

How has chinas artistic landscape evolved since you began?In those first years (2005-2006) there was some great art on sale in China but normally going for tens if not hundreds of thousands of dollars. I remember seeing artists such as Zhang Xiaogang and Feng Zhengjie in relatively small galleries selling for just tens of thousands of dollars. By 2008 these same artists were selling for hundreds of thousands if not millions of dol-lars at auction houses in New York and Hong Kong.

Some of the more expensive works dipped a little during the global recession and this is when we saw the affordable art market really start to pick up. We spent a lot of time trying to discuss the merits of art as an aesthetic rather than an investment and that art is a part of culture and lifestyle, not just an alternative to the stock market Now this is something more and more Chinese buyers are understanding.

(AAB)20064

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Aeris talks to tOm PAttiNsON, Affordable Arts Beijing Founder and Director, about the value of art beyond investment, along with chinas emerging art genres and the dark side beneath them.

Aeristom Pattinson, ,

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UNtitLeD BAO XiAOyU

170 X 140cm, 2008OiL ON cANvAs,

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Weve seen in the last two to three years a new depth to the art market with events and galleries around the mainland working more with younger emerging artists and trying to attract a younger generation of buyers. This is a great trend, as we are seeing art become accessible to a wider audience and the notion of art as a lifestyle choice and not a luxury item being accepted by more and more people.

in what ways do the artworks allow for greater expression of societal change in modern china?I always say that art in any form is a window onto the society at that moment in time. Chinese contemporary art (and film and literature) is no different. Therefore we can see many changing trends of contemporary art that coincide with the changes in modern Chinese society: from the abstract styles and new methods and subjects of liberty from the first contemporary artists in the late 1970s, to the well-known pop artworks of the 1990s featuring clashes between socialism and capitalism, to todays works from younger artists questioning their place in the world and more controversial subjects relating to censorship, environment and social unrest.

many of the artworks seem to possess a dark side. What are the most common disturbia themes youve picked up on?Many of the younger artists will naturally go through a darker phase but isolation is certainly a reoccurring theme. Many of these artists are children of the one-child generation who are very much an individual in their owneyes but are just part of the great masses in the eyes of the government or outsiders. There is this questioning of whether they can really make a difference to what they see going on but dont necessarily support. For example Kong Lingnans work is very dark with black canvasses streaked

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UNtitLeD XU XiAOBO

80 X 60cm, 2010 vAGrANt OiL ON cANvAs ,

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WHite HOUse cHeNG cHeN

30 X 22cm PAPer,

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with paint to look like neon. Her subject matter covers loneliness, death and most importantly the impact we are having on the environment. There is the question that I think many young people in China ask: we know its not right but can we really make any difference?

it seems the genres are so vast that china is going through every art period europe went through from the renaissance to the 21st century. What do you think is driving that variety?Quite simply the pace of China. China has done in 30 years what Europe took well over a century to do. This too, has been reflected in the diversity of its art. Dont forget many of the well known Chinese artists of today lived through the Cultural Revolution, mass famine, political upheaval like never seen elsewhere in the modern world. The change from this to China being the economic powerhouse of the world is hard to fathom. Meanwhile China still has many social issues it needs to deal with in relation to freedoms of movement, expression and speech, rule of law and civil uncertainty. The government has its influence on art whether overtly or not and the tastes and moods of the authorities obviously affect that too.

How do you choose paintings with potential as aninvestment or an adornment? I never suggest people buy a work purely as an investment. The art market, like any other market fluctuates and so there is always the risk in buying art as an investment that it will go down as well as up. The nice thing about affordable art is that your risk are lowest but your rewards are greatest. We work with art that normally under US$5,000 so if it depreciates in price then you cant lose too much, while it has the potential to go up and up and up. Weve sold work for US$1,000 that has gone on to sell for US$40,000 and while this is the exception rather than the rule, many, many works do appreciate.

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HABitAtyANG LiNG 103 X 107cm 2010

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However I think art should be about buying an aesthetic, something to adorn the walls of your house or office and something to remind you of a time and a place. I have never sold any works of art I have bought because they now allhave some kind of sentimental value to me. I love having the idea that people come over for dinner and see a work on the wall and we can have a conversation about it. For me thats much more important than having some works in a warehouse somewhere.

What is your price range how affordable are we talking?The accepted global number for affordable art is about US$5,000. However our prices are currently a little lower than that. In fact, the lowest price of works in Beijing this year was 200 and the highest was 20,000 RMB. The average price of works sold this year was around 6,000 RMB.

At a time when chinese art has never been more expensive, what is the biggest challenge you face in pioneering the countrys affordable art market?One of the biggest challenges has been to enable the wider public to understand that art is something that is not just limited to the super wealthy. When young local couples come to our event and see that they can take home a work of art for less t