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www . delvaux . com
De Keyserlei 58/60
2018 Antwerp
Voldersstraat 58
9000 Ghent
Geldmuntstraat 41
8000 Bruges
Grasmarkt 26
1000 Brussels
Editor’s Letter
6
Emma Cheevers
/globalblue
/globalblue/globalblue
@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue
@GlobalBlue
/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu
Athens and Thessaloniki
Austria
Austrian Alps
Barcelona
Belgium
Berlin
Buenos Aires
Cologne
Copenhagen
Cyprus
Чехия
Düsseldorf
Estonia
Frankfurt
French Riviera
ا ي دليل ألان
德国指南
Руководство Германия
Gothenburg
Hamburg
Hanover
Helsinki Area
Holland
Iceland
Istanbul
Italy
Lake Saimaa
Lebanon
London
Madrid
Milan
Munich
Naples
Nuremburg
Oslo
Paris
Portugal
Prague
Riga
Rimini and Riccione
Rome
Seoul
Singapore
Stockholm
Stuttgart
Switzerland
Tokyo
Vienna
Vilnius
Welcome to Belgium
Let SHOP guide you as you explore Belgium.
Read about Delvaux, the maker of some of the
world’s most sought-after handbags (page 38),
the most appealing neighbourhood cafés (page
44), and much more.
SHOP is part of Global Blue, a Tax Free
Shopping market leader, and publishes guides
to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia.
Our insider knowledge means we are ideally
placed to tell you everything you need to know
about your chosen destination, including the
essential stores, boutiques, restaurants and
places to visit.
For the very latest information, visit
globalblue.com. It’s even easier to claim your
tax savings with the Global Blue Card – sign-
ing up is free and you can fnd all the details
on the website. And don’t forget to download
the Global Blue mobile app!
ILL
US
TR
AT
ION
: PIN
G Z
HU
Contributors
globalblue.com
8
Clare Coulson
Journalist Clare Coulson is the
former fashion editor of the Daily
Telegraph and former fashion
director of Harper’s Bazaar, for
which she is currently contributing
editor. She also writes for publica-
tions from Net-A-Porter to InStyle.
For this issue, she writes about
Belgium’s cutting-edge designers.
Adam Dhaliwal
Adam Dhaliwal, SHOP’s artwork-
er, is passionate about design and
technology. When he’s not at work
he’s on the lookout for his next
new gadget. Adam is an exercise
enthusiast who enjoys working out,
which helps ofset his love of food.
Matt Murphy
Matt Murphy created this
season’s cover illustration
for SHOP Belgium. He has
previously been commissioned
by The Economist, The Guardian
and The New York Times,
among others. His imaginative,
conceptual artwork makes him
the obvious choice for this cover,
inspired by our feature on page
30 about Belgium’s renown for
pioneering fashion and its new
wave of designers.
Read more about our cover
illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.
ILL
US
TR
AT
ION
: MA
TT
MU
Rp
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ph
OT
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IRS
Ty
AN
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S
Shop Floor
10
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every
care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after
publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide.
All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue
E DI TOR I A L
Editor-in-chief
Emma Cheevers
Managing editor
Sally McIlhone
Cover illustrator
Matt Murphy
Contributor
Clare Coulson
Production editor
Caterina Mazzolai
Assistant production editor
Ruairidh Pritchard
Features editor
Stephen Doig
City guide and lifestyle editor
Verity Hogan
Fashion and news editor
Dominique Fenn
Assistant fashion and market editor
Ximena Daneri
Assistant fashion and news editors
Hannah Lewis,
Isabella Redmond Styles
Fashion assistant
Gemma Latham
Editorial intern
Sammy Ha
Chief sub-editor
Hester Lacey
Copy editors
Sue Flook, Claire Gervat,
Ann Morphew,
Harriet O’Brien
Picture editor
Dorcas Brown
Assistant picture editors
Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts
Picture assistants
Grace Bird, Mónica Goya
Picture intern
Rubi Ali
Artworker
Adam Dhaliwal
Artworking assistants
Dionne Hélène,
Ai-Lun Huang, Milkha Lala
Artworking intern
Hibba Sayeed
Online editor
Kirsty Welsh
Online editorial assistant
Katie Ramsingh
Online assistants
Marina Nelson,
Emily Scrivener
Commercial editor
Justine Clifton
Commercial artworking
assistant
Aaron Carline
Commercial artworking interns
George Trinick
Ellie Vigors,
Chinese editor
Yuan Fang
Associate Chinese editor
Junjie Dou
Chinese contributing editor
Qingya He
Chinese translators
Xun Ji, Mengjiao Qu, Yin Shi,
Chenguang Yi, Yi Zhang
Chinese interns
Yunhan Fang, Tiantian Liu
Russian editor
Anastasia Nemchenok
Associate Russian editor
Daria Orlova
Assistant Russian editor
Kira Savchenko
Russian editorial assistant
Linda Blank
Russian translators
Teena Garnik,
Gary Ramazanov
Japanese editor
Kyoko Nishimoto
SHOP is published by Global Blue
Group headquarters
Global Blue SA,
Route de Crassier 7,
CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland
Corporate registration number
5565726923
globalblue.com
Digital manager
Eamonn Leacy
Digital production manager
Funmi Paul-Taiwo
Online commercial editor
Sally Ashley-Cound
Project manager
Bina Summan
International digital marketing executive
Nina Kobalia
Digital marketing executive
Wenhan Zhang
Digital production assistant
Paul Lecoanet
Advertising and partnership manager
Riccardo Canini
Distribution and partnership manager
Claudia Suárez
Dane Consultancy
GL OBA L BLU E
BE L GI UM
Country manager
Jorn Hoogesteijn
Marketing manager
Kathy van Haaren
Customer relations
Carla Maes, Ilse Vanachter
Account managers
Jennifer de Vos,
Sophie Herkenne,
Kim Joostens
Global Blue Belgium,
Lambroekstraat 5C,
B-1831 Diegem,
Belgium
PU BL I SH I NG
Publisher
James Morris
14
Above: Walter Van Beirendonck designs in an exhibition at MoMu fashion museum, Antwerp
Produc ts
16 Check Out
sHoP selects a standout piece
from Belgium this season
18 Products
Key looks for the season,
from fashion and footwear
to jewellery and accessories
N e ws
24 Shop Window
one store not to be missed
in Belgium
26 News
seasonal updates on shops,
services and new products
F e At u r e s
30 Cover Story:
In Its Own Fashion
small as it is, Belgium
conquered the catwalks
of the world in the 1980s,
and it continues to do.
clare coulson fnds out how
38 In Focus: Delvaux’s
Le Brilliant Bag
In 1958 leather-goods house
delvaux created an icon with
Le Brillant. today its design
remains innovative yet classic,
as Hannah Lewis discovers
e x Pe r I e Nce
44 Café Society
Belgium’s best neighbourhood
cafés combine a laid-back
mood with high-quality
cofee, says Verity Hogan
Gu I de
49 Maps and guides to Belgium’s
top shops and destinations
64 My Neighbourhood
Laurent Gerbaud takes
sHoP on a tour of Brussels’
saint-Géry and place sainte-
catherine districts
e sse N t I A L s
66 How To Shop Tax Free
the simple steps to saving
money on your shopping
t r A NsL At IoNs
69 Русский Перевод
74 美文翻译
77 日本語翻訳
sou V e N I r
82 the essential item
to bring home
Contents
p.36
Check Out
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 66
16 | PRODUC TS
can be worn alone or combined in
a diverse array of scents. In addi-
tion to custom blends, two house
perfumes are also available at
L’Antichambre, alongside candles
and home fragrance. Visit the
in-store laboratory in Brussels to
concoct your own unique perfume
and take home a beautifully pack-
aged and very personal memento
or gift. gl
L’Antichambre Blend
fragrance, from €145 for 50ml,
L’Antichambre,
13 place Georges Brugmann,
1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 343 5513,
l-antichambre.com
CREATIVE SCENTS
L’Antichambre founder Anne
Pascale Mathy-Devalck originally
set out to recreate vintage scents.
However she soon discovered the
joy of creating her own fragrances
and wanted to pass this experience
on to her customers by ofering
personalised perfumes. After seek-
ing expertise from master perfum-
ers in Grasse, Mathy-Devalck has
developed 50 bases from carefully
sourced raw ingredients, and these
18 | PRODUC TS
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 66
PH
OTO
: (1)
TO
MM
AS
O V
ECC
HI
3. Caroline Biss necklace, €70, Caroline Biss, 21-21A avenue Louise, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 538 5038, carolinebiss.com
4. Lee Cooper jeans, €89.95, Lynel, 98 chaussée d’Ixelles, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 511 1304, leecooper.com
1. Pinko boots, €478, Pinko, Hiudevettersstraat 42A, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 231 0006, pinko.it
2. La Pomme de Loveley handbag,
€465, Gauquie, Leopoldstraat 10, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 232 1775, lapommedeloveley.com
TACTILE TREATS
Add texture to otherwise simple silhouettes to make a style statement this season
1
2
4
3
globalblue.com
5. O’Neill hat, €19.95, O’Neill, Stadsfeestzaal, Meir 78, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 232 7861, oneill.com
6. Eric Bompard coat, €750, Eric Bompard, 57 boulevard de Waterloo, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 513 5623, eric-bompard.com
7. Roeckl leather gloves, €459, Vincent, Galerie Agora, 33 rue des Eperonniers, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)3 511 5498, roeckl.de
SHOP | 19
6
5 7
20 | PRODUC TS
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 66
PH
OTO
S: (
1) ©
Gr
eGO
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alu
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; (2)
Fr
aN
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PIz
zO
CH
erO
EYE-CATCHING EFFECT
Turn heads at the airport with this cool and quirky ensemble
1
2
3
4
1. Rimowa Bolero trolley, from €369, Rimowa, Leopoldstraat 6, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 234 3220, rimowa.de
2. Persol eyewear, €207, Meeussen Galerie Optiek, Nieuwe Gaanderij 38-39, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 232 4837, persol.com
3. Replay sweater, €139, Replay, 33 rue Antoine Dansaert, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 513 2430, replay.it
4. Gaastra jeans, €119.95, Gaastra, Schoenmarkt 6, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 707 0372, gaastra.eu
Appelmansstraat 25 box 23-26, 2018 Antwerp Belgium
tel: +32 (0)3 226 11 91 | fax: +32 (0)3 226 21 57 | e-mail: [email protected]
The Lotus Collection
D-Brilliant Cuts™ invented by master Polisher
Hedwig Smets
and is a registered Trademark owned by
Dayekh Gems™ bvba
Shop Window
24 | N E WS
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 66
literally highlights the balance be-
tween art and matter. Replay is a
thoroughly modern brand taking
a contemporary approach to its
business, and this store is a great
refection of the way the company
ofsets innovation with respect
for tradition and for the environ-
ment. Cleverly, these themes are
realised without overshadowing
the clothes which are, as always, of
the utmost quality. hl
Replay, Meir 27, 2000 Antwerp,
+32 (0)3 204 0177, replay.it
* for map go to page 57
REPLAY REIMAGINED
Italian denim expert Replay con-
tinues the development of its retail
vision with a concept store in the
Meir district of Antwerp. The look
takes inspiration from Replay’s
commitment to eco-sustainability
and has a natural, rustic aesthetic.
The store has been designed with
rough materials and a tin ceiling,
and its carefully devised lighting
P H OTO G R A P H E D
AT YA L E
Cross Campus
gant.com
26 | N E WS
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 66
PERFECT SETTINGS
Hailed as the frst multi-brand
Belgian designer store in Brus-
sels when it opened in 1984, Stijl is
something of an institution among
the city’s most fashionable resi-
dents. The boutique has one store
for men and one for women, and
owner Sonja Noël has ensured that
the stores ofer a unique experi-
ence. In the menswear store, each
designer’s work is presented in a
space that perfectly refects the col-
lection, be it one of Belgium’s most
famous fashion talents or a promis-
ing young designer. irs
Stijl Men, 6 place du
Nouveau Marché aux Grains,
1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 513 4250,
stijl.be
* for map go to page 52
HAY HAS IT ALL
Danish interiors brand Hay cel-
ebrates the frst anniversary of its
Antwerp store this autumn. Bring-
ing Scandinavian style to Belgium,
the brand is dedicated to inno-
vative design, sustainability and
quality. In addition to its furniture
collections, a range of homeware is
available including rugs, cushions,
quilts and accessories. With a mis-
sion to produce the perfect prod-
ucts for modern living, Hay has all
you need to make your home both
beautiful and functional. gl
Hay,
Ijzerenwaag 12a,
2000 Antwerp,
+32 (0)3 344 9501,
hayantwerpen.com
globalblue.com
SHOP | 27
SHOP THE WORLD
Using our wealth of insider knowledge, we
have created a smartphone app to help you
to plan your trip. The app gives information
on 45 cities in 22 countries – thousands
of stores are listed and located on maps,
with full contact details and a descrip-
tion of what each store sells. Our maps
guide you right to the store and can also
be downloaded for offine use enabling
you to create your own itinerary. You can
also sign up for the Global Blue Card and,
once you’re logged in the My Tax Refund
wallet becomes available, allowing you to
track pending refunds. The app is avail-
able in Chinese, English and Russian, and
includes a Tax Refund Calculator to tell you
how much you’ll save on every purchase
you make in every different country you
visit. There are also instructions on how
to use Currency Choice, our service that
allows you to pay in your home currency.
globalblue.com
Download the Global Blue guide
from the App Store or Play Store
CLEVER COMBINATION
Newly launched jewellery
brand Uribe is the creation of
husband-and-wife team Sion
and Tifany Phillips. Tifany’s
background in accessories design
for the likes of Chanel and Kenzo
coupled with Sion’s graphic de-
sign and branding expertise make
a powerful combination. In-
spired by their respective Welsh
and Chilean-American heritage,
the duo has created a distinctive
debut collection of bold and beau-
tiful pieces. gl
Hunting and Collecting,
17 rue des Chartreux,
1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 512 7477,
studiouribe.co.uk
* for map go to page 52
28 | N E WS
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 66
BEST OF THE VESTS
Five years ago a group of young
Belgians wanted to start a new ven-
ture based on complete dedication
to quality, and they decided to make
the most fabulous marcels (vests)
in Brussels. Initially ofering only
this one item, and doing it incred-
ibly well, Le Fabuleux Marcel was
a quick success. Although the range
has now expanded to a far wider
choice of apparel, the brand’s initial
commitment to excellent designs
made with love remains. It is now
at a shiny new location on rue Léon
Lepage. You’d be hard pressed to
fnd better basics. hl
CHIC KIDS
Founded in 2006 by two young
mothers seeking chic yet comfy
clothing for children, CdeC has
opened a second store in Brussels.
CdeC’s well-crafted childrenswear
has a playful aesthetic and is de-
signed by the eponymous founder
Cordelia de Castellane and her
cousin, Ségolène Gallienne. The
new store is a charming space dec-
orated in crisp white with wooden
accents and is a lovely place for
parents and children alike. hl
CdeC,
1384 chaussée de Waterloo,
1180 Brussels,
+32 (0)2 375 2745,
cdec.fr
Le Fabuleux Marcel,
10 rue Léon Lepage,
1000 Brussels,
+32 (0)2 201 0361,
fabuleuxmarcel.com
PH
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dk
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77
fashion
How did Belgium, small as it is, conquer the catwalks of the world? Clare Coulson fnds out In
/69 74
ownitsIn the late 1980s a group of six
Belgian designers erupted on
to the fashion scene, and their
story has since become legendary.
Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van
Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck,
Dirk Bikkembergs, Dirk van
Saene and Marina Yee had stud-
ied together at the Koninklijke
Academie voor Schone KunstenPH
OTO
: Ka
re
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On
Te
yn
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Above: the antwerp Six, from lef to right, Marina yee, Dries Van noten, ann Demeulemeester, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk van Saene
32 | FEATURES
Above (clock wise from lef): Ann Demeulemeester; Dirk Bikkembergs; Dries Van Noten, all autumn/winter 2014/15
PH
OTO
S: ©
gO
ru
Nw
Ay.c
Om
Antwerpen (Royal Academy
of Fine Arts in Antwerp) and were
to become known as the Antwerp
Six. It was their trip to London
Fashion Week in 1988 that put
them on the map. As none of the
designers had enough money
to travel individually to show their
collections, they clubbed together
and drove a van full of clothes to
London. There they made a big im-
pression, with Barneys New York
the frst store to place an order.
Some, most notably Dries Van
Noten and Ann Demeulemeester,
would go on to build up incredibly
successful and infuential global
businesses (though Demeule-
meester stepped away from hers
in November 2013). Others such
as Walter Van Beirendonck would
also go into teaching. But no mat-
ter what the future would bring,
at that moment the six designers
were a force for change in fashion,
not only in terms of the shift in taste
that they would kick start but also
as an inspiration to a new genera-
tion of Belgian designers.
The Antwerp
Six emerged just
as fashion was
undergoing a
seismic shift
SHOP | 33
PH
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Timing was everything. The
Antwerp Six emerged just as fash-
ion was undergoing a seismic shift.
Global brands had been develop-
ing on diferent continents (Ar-
mani and Versace in Italy, and
Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein
in America) and although entirely
diferent they all ofered a very
commercial take on womenswear.
In total contrast, a new avant-
garde fashion was emerging. Japa-
nese designers, including Yohji
Yamamoto and Comme des Gar-
çon’s Rei Kawakubo, had burst
on to the scene a few years before
and with them an entirely new aes-
thetic was born. It was challenging
and cerebral. It was unlike any-
thing else fashion had seen before.
So in many ways the scene was
already set for the Belgians, whose
cool and avant-garde aesthetic ex-
cited a new generation of women
wanting clothes that chimed with
the times.
Although the six would
go on to show predominantly
in Paris, and although they were
grouped together aesthetically, they
were very diferent. The rich sensi-
bilities of Dries Van Noten, for ex-
ample, are entirely distinct from
Demeulemeester’s dark, rock-in-
fected androgyny. Yet despite this
there is something that unites them,
as well as the Belgian designers
who have followed in their wake.
34 | FEATURES
Above (clockwise from lef): Walter Van Beirendonck autumn/winter 2014/15; the designer himself; Walter Van Beirendonck autumn/winter 2014/15
PH
OTO
: © D
AN
& C
OR
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CC
A
The Belgian aesthetic was,
and is, emotional, individual and
about real women rather than
extreme ideas of femininity. Col-
lections evolve organically rather
than lurching from trend to trend
each season. As Demeulemeester
explained before she left her
namesake label, ‘Every collec-
tion is a new step and every step
is impotant. I’m never in a hurry.
If I want to do something new
I want to do it well.’
The Antwerp Six were in many
ways ahead of their time and im-
mensely prescient, given the emo-
tion-led world that we live in today.
For Demeulemeester the common
thread can be traced to the fact that
before the Antwerp Six emerged
the country had no particular look.
Collections evolve
organically rather
than lurching from
trend to trend
PH
OTO
: © D
AN
& C
OR
INA
LE
CC
A
36 | FEATURES
Above (from top lef): Dirk Bikkembergs autumn/winter 2014/15; Walter Van Beirendonck designs at the Stephen Jones and the Accent of Fashion exhibition held at the MoMu fashion museum in Antwerp from 8 September 2010 to 13 February 2011
Younger stars such
as Niels Peeraer
are spearheading
another new wave
of Belgian design
‘In Belgium we don’t have a huge
fashion heritage like Paris or Mi-
lan. I always felt I had to start from
zero so I could create something
of my own,’ muses the designer.
‘But it brought a sense of responsi-
bility. I had to do something really
good. So maybe this is an ambition
that Belgians have.’
Their ascendance certainly
put the Koninklijke Academie
voor Schone Kunsten Antwerpen
on the map. The fashion school
from which the six graduated
had previously taught mostly Bel-
gian students. But the emergence
of these designers confrmed its
status as one of the best fashion
PH
OTO
: AlB
er
TOr
ug
OlO
TTO
SHOP | 37
Above (this page): ceramic vessel by Dirk van Saene for Delvaux
schools in the world and gradually
it attracted students globally. And,
of course, it gave Belgium’s own
home-grown talent more traction.
Designers such as Olivier
Theyskens, Haider Ackermann
and Raf Simons have gone
on to have huge international suc-
cess, albeit in very diferent ways.
Other younger stars such as Niels
Peeraer are spearheading another
new wave of Belgian design. Al-
though distinctly diferent, they
have all learned lessons from those
six designers who emerged almost
30 years ago. They have established
their own separate styles, and fash-
ion is much the richer for it
/
38 | F E AT U R E S
71
79
75
In 1958 leather goods house Delvaux created an icon with Le Brillant.
PH
OTO
S: F
iLiP
Va
nz
ieLe
gH
em
IN FOCUS:
Delvaux’s Le
SHOP | 39
Above (from lef): Delvaux La Singularité bag; La Création bag, both Les Humeurs de Brillant collection
Today its design remains innovative yet classic, as Hannah Lewis discovers
Brillant Bag
40 | F E AT U R E S
Above: Tiany Kirilof with Delvaux’s L’Humour from Les Humeurs de Brillant collection
Delvaux regards the handbag almost as a form of sculpture
For most women today, life with-
out a handbag is unthinkable. Yet
before the development of rail
travel, the need for handbags was
far from commonplace. In the 19th
century, trunk maker Charles Del-
vaux realised how the rail revolu-
tion would impact on women and
how, now able to travel, they would
want to keep personal items close
to hand. So his family frm cre-
ated bags for this purpose, and in
1908 the company became one of
the frst in history to fle patents for
handbag designs.
Founded in 1829 in Brussels,
Delvaux is one of the oldest luxury
to produce collections in line with
haute-couture seasons, Delvaux is
an industry game changer.
The house of Delvaux has cre-
ated more than 3,000 handbag de-
signs in its 185 years, each pains-
takingly developed. The brand
regards the handbag as almost a
form of sculpture and favours
structural shapes for which appar-
ent simplicity depends on intricate
craftsmanship. The fnest hides
from France and Italy are used,
and each Delvaux product is craft-
ed by hand in one of the brand’s
workshops in Belgium and France.
That Delvaux is a brand of excep-
leather-goods houses in the world.
In fact it predates the birth of Bel-
gium itself, which was declared
independent from the Netherlands
in 1830. The house has built up an
exceptional reputation across the
world. Admired for its ability to be
innovative while also maintaining
tradition and a core commitment
to quality, Delvaux has been at the
forefront of many developments
in luxury goods. From embracing
the increased demand for ultra-
luxurious handbags to being the
frst luxury leather-goods brand
PH
OTO
: © T
HE
ST
RE
ET
MU
SE
.IT/M
ELA
NIE
GA
LEA
FNAC
ANTWERPEN
Groenplaats
FNAC
BRUGGE
Markt 18-19
FNAC
BRUSSELS
City 2Toison d’Or
FNAC
GENT
Veldstraat 88
FNAC
LEUVEN
Vital Decosterstr. 7
FNAC
LIEGE
Rue Joffre 3
FNAC
LLN
Centre commercial L’esplanade
FNAC
WIJNEGEM
Shopping Center
Fnac9 outlets in Belgium
BOOKS I CD I COMPUTER I DVD I GAMES
HI-FI I HOME & DESIGN I KIDS
PHOTOGRAPHY I TICKETING I TV
42 | FEATURES
Above (clockwise from lef): Le Brillant bag in alligator skin; Jackie Kennedy with her Le Brillant bag, 1960s; Delvaux leather stamp
t i o n a l
prestige is refected in the fact that
it is a royal warrant holder to the
court of Belgium, an honour it was
frst accorded in 1883.
Every Delvaux design is ac-
complished. But Le Brillant, the
for 45 years and knows full well
how intricate the process is. ‘Five
people take part in the creation of
one Le Brillant,’ she explains. ‘The
entire process, from cutting the
leather to the fnal touches, takes
between eight and 10 hours.’ For
an artisan at Delvaux, Le Brillant
is the most important piece to mas-
ter because it sets the standard by
which the brand’s other bags are
judged. ‘When a craftsperson is
able to make a Le Brillant, he or
she can create any other bag of the
Delvaux house,’ Marcq adds.
According to Marcq, the con-
tinuing success of Le Brillant is
down to its very carefully consid-
ered design. The bag has a unique
structure of 64 pieces of leather
and its template has not changed
brand’s signature bag, is iconic.
It was launched in 1958 to imme-
diate acclaim and quickly became
a showpiece item. Created by de-
signer Paule Goethals, Le Brillant
has clean lines and soft, rounded
edges. Its large central buckle is its
only attention-seeking feature, and
it exudes the sort of understated
elegance that has since become the
zenith of stylish dressing. In the
decades since its creation it has had
an enormous infuence on handbag
design. Yet where other bags might
shout for attention, Le Brillant is
the epitome of timeless style and
discreet luxury.
Much of the appeal of Le Bril-
lant lies in exquisite craftsman-
ship. Master craftswoman Brigitte
Marcq has worked for Delvaux
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SHOP | 43
The luxury leather house has made a name for itself with innovation
Tiany Kirilof to Korean fashion
lover Kim Na Young, those in the
know today carry their Le Brillant
with pride.
Le Brillant is reimagined each
season in new colours and materi-
als. This may be a classic handbag,
but the luxury leather house made
a name for itself with innovation,
and even with its signature piece
Delvaux has never stood still.
Through the collection Les Hu-
since 1958 because, she says, ‘each
element was perfectly thought out’.
Thanks to the design and work-
manship every bag has impressive
longevity, too. A Le Brillant hand-
bag becomes a collector’s piece and
is passed down through the gen-
erations. From the very start it was
loved by the most stylish of women
and it is still just as sought-after
today. From Queen Mathilde of
Belgium and journalist and stylist
meurs de Brillant (The Moods of
Brillant), the brand explores its
ability to adapt to changing times
and stay at the forefront of creativ-
ity. This is a series of nine special-
edition Le Brillant handbags, each
one embodying a diferent con-
cept, from Le Rêve (The Dream)
to La Singularité (The Singulari-
ty). Inspired by Belgian artist René
Magritte’s painting The Treachery
of Images, L’Humour is a classic
black Le Brillant inscribed with the
legend ‘ceci n’est pas un Delvaux’
(‘this is not a Delvaux’). Embrac-
ing the Belgian artistic heritage of
surrealist whimsy, this is a bag that
fuses modernism with a sense of
timeless elegance. From one of the
world’s oldest luxury leather-goods
houses we’d expect nothing less
PH
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globalblue.com
44 | E X PE R I E NCE
Café SoCietyBelgium’s most popular cafés combine
a laidback mood with high-quality cofee and talented baristas. Verity Hogan relaxes
at a selection of the country’s fnest
Belgians are among the world’s
most discerning cofee drinkers,
and cofee beans are now among
the country’s highest imports. The
current trend, both in cafés and at
home, is for premium cofee with
superior favours that provide a
gourmet experience. The way cof-
fee is presented in many cafés is
also distinctive: don’t be surprised
to fnd a chocolate trufe served
alongside your espresso.
Belgium’s neighbourhood cafés are
havens of both peace and activity,
depending on whether you want to
catch up with work on a laptop, re-
lax with a book, or debate politics.
This versatility appeals to both
locals and visitors alike, attracting
artists, intellectuals and students.
Cafés are also typically trend-con-
scious venues where the interior
design tends to be as intriguing as
the diverse clientele.
SHOP | 45
O R E S P R E S S O B a R
a micro cofee roaster as well as
a popular café, Or Espresso Bar
attracts true cofee enthusiasts.
Its expert baristas are passionate
about producing the perfect cap-
puccino or espresso, and the café’s
owners travel the world to source
the fnest beans available. The
café’s use of high-quality beans is
combined with brewing methods
that have been specially tailored to
each blend, ensuring consistently
delicious results. Freshness is
guaranteed as is the knowledge of
the team of baristas. The industrial
styling is also worthy of note.
Or Espresso Bar,
13a place Jourdan,
1040 Brussels,
+32 (0)2 230 9299,
orcoffee.be
globalblue.com
46 | E X PE R I E NCE
B R a z I l a
Brazila has been roasting high-
quality cofee beans in Belgium
since 1930 and its cofee shops
are instantly appealing thanks to
their rich aromas. Visitors to the
company’s Bruges branch can
watch beans being freshly ground
before choosing a seat on the ter-
race or in the cosy interior. Expect
a varied menu of cofees, teas and
speciality beverages along with a
range of pre-packaged ground cof-
fee to take home.
Brazila, Mallebergplaats 1,
8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 330929,
brazila-brugge.be
N o R M o C o f f E E
Normo is one of antwerp’s most
popular hangouts, providing a
home-away-from-home for cofee
enthusiasts and art students alike.
Set close to the Koninklijke acade-
mie voor Schone Kunsten antwer-
pen (Royal academy of fine arts
in antwerp), it attracts an artistic
clientele who help infuse the café
with a bohemian spirit. The artis-
tic mood is refected in the décor,
which is minimalist and industrial
in tone. The café roasts its own
beans on site and its large roasting
machines add to the striking qual-
ity of the décor.
Normo Cofee,
Minderbroedersrui 30,
2000 antwerp,
+32 (0)495 657243,
normocoffee.beT
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Photographed in La Roca Village. A member of the Chic Outlet Shopping® Collection of Villages.
© Maasmechelen Village 2014 *on the recommended retail price
The world’s greatest designer boutiques.
With savings of 30% to 60%* and tax-free shopping.
Receive 50% off your Shopping Express® return ticket from Brussels
by booking online with the code ‘GLOBALBLUE’.
CALVIN KLEIN JEANS CLARKS ESCADA FURLA GUESS HUGO BOSS KIPLING
LACOSTE LAUREL LIU JO SAMSONITE SUPERDRY SWAROVSKI
TED BAKER TOMMY HILFIGER UGG AUSTRALIA VERSACE AND MANY MORE
LIKE SHOPPING. BUT BETTER.
MaasmechelenVillage.com
EUROPE LONDON DUBLIN PARIS MADRID BARCELONA MILAN BRUSSELS
FRANKFURT MUNICH CHINA SUZHOU SHANGHAI (OPENING AUTUMN 2015)
Guide
GU I DE | 49
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Belgium, with a look at the country’s must-visit destinations, from the most luxurious jewellers to the coolest concept stores. Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/belgium.
PH
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Above: the impressive courtyard of Bruges’s gruuthuse, a 15th-century mansion in the shadow of Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk (the Church of Our Lady)
A GlImPSE OF BrUGES
Xxxxxxxxxx
50 | GU I DE
TROONPLEIN
H
OO
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TR
AA
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RUE JOURDAN
RUE HAU
TE
H
OO
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R
UE B
LAES
BLAESSTRA
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RU
E BLA
ES
VALKSTRAAT
RU
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INIM
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TR
AA
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TAS
SA
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BR
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RU
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MID
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RU
E NEU
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RUE DE MIROIR
R U
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AN
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UR
S
BRIGITINN E STRAAT
RUE DES COLONIES
RUE DU LO MBARD
A
V. DE LA TOISON D’OR
RUE DU PRINCE ROYAL
CH
AU
SS
ÉE D’LX
ELLES
RUE VAN ARTEVELDE
RU
E DE
LA
EK
EN
RUE DE L
A CONCORDE
DU JARDIN BOTANIQ
RU
E R
OY
ALE
RU
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I
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UNNEL LOUISE
RUE D
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DR
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HOPSTRAAT
B
LVD. DE L’ EMPEREUR RUE ANTOINE DANSAERT
BLVD
. MAU
RICE L
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IER
B
LVD
. AN
SPACH
RUE DE L
A RÉGENCE
RUE A UX L AINES
RUE AUX L
AINES
RU
E D
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AM
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Belga Queen
TOWN HALL
GRAND PLACE
GALERIES ROYALES ST. HUBERT
THE CATHEDRAL OF
SAINTS MICHEL
AND GUDULE
BELGIAN CENTER
FOR COMIC STRIP ART
MANNEKEN PIS
PLACE DU
GRAND SABLON
MAGRITTE MUSEUM
FORMER PALACE
OF BRUSSELS
ROYAL PALACE
Place DesPalais
MONT DES ARTS
LAW COURTS OF BRUSSELS
LA MONNAIE THEATRE
DELIRIUM TREMENS
Hotel Metropole
CENTRAL STATION
Train Station Tourist Information
Restaurant
Brussels
page
51
page
53
page
54
page
52
Place Of Interest
Hotel
SHOP | 51
RU
E D
ES
CE
ND
RE
SRU
E S
AIN
T-P
IER
RE
ZANDSTRAAT
RU
E D
U PERSIL
RUE DES BOITEUX
NIEUWBRUG NIEUW
BRUG
PE
LIKA
AN
ST
RA
AT
PE
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AA
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TR
AA
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KOOLSTRAT
RUE D
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IBO
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VE
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TR
AA
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D
AM
BO
RD
ST
RA
AT
RUE DE LA BLANCHISSERIE
B
ROEKSTR
AAT
B
RO
EK
ST
RA
AT
RUE DES AUGUSTINS
RU
E DI M
EL
BO
OM
RU
E N
EU
VE
RU
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UV
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P
L. D
E B
RO
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KÈ
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B
LVD
. EM
ILE
JA
CQ
MA
IN BLVD. DU JARDIN BOTANIQUE
● FNAC
●
●
EASY-M●
VERITAS●
CELIOH&M●
SACHA●
●
CAMAIEUTAMARIS
● COOL CAT
●
● GALERIA INNO
MEDIA MARKT
● THE BODY SHOP
●●
MAC●
MORGAN
●
PIMKIE● ERAM
MANGO● HUNKEMOLLER
● SWAROVSKI
● ETAM LINGERIE
●
●
NEW LOOK●
PROMOD
ICI PARIS XL●
●
FOOT LOCKER
C&A● H&M
● HEMA
● BENETTON
●
●
CHAMPS ELYSÉES
●
TIME SQUARE
YVES● ROCHER
WE
ALFREDO
DIFFUSION ●
TARACCI ●
DEAN ●
TRISTYL ●
JULES ●MANGO ●
LEONIDAS ●ERAM ●
OKAÏDI ●DIESEL ●
NEW LOOK ●
SALAMANDER ●
CLAIRE'S ●
BASE SHOP ●GEOX ●
GALLERY ●MANO ●
SHOE DISCOUNT ●LEVI'S ●KEN ●
SCORE ●DONA ●
PULL & BEAR ●
DU PAREIL
AU MÊME ●H&M ●
UN JOUR
AILLEURS ●
CASSIS/PAPRIKA ●
H&M MAN ●
CAMAIEU ●JULES ●
MEXX ●
INTIMISSIMI ●MACH 3 ●
AMERICA TODAY ●
BERSHKA ●KEN ●
NAF NAF ●
MAROQUINERIE
FABIOLA ●ESPRIT ●
CELIO CLUB ●ZARA ●
PEARLE OPTICIEN ●CELIO ●
ERAM ●
SPRINGFIELD ●
JENNYFER ●
WOMEN’SECRET ●
DAVIDOFF ●
City 2 Shopping Center
LEONIDAS SHOP ●
Rue Neuve
Shopping CentreNon-Global Blue Retailer
1. Wouters & Hendrix
Design duo Katrin Wouters and Karen
Hendrix are known for producing a range
of emotive yet timeless jewellery.
Wouters & Hendrix, 16 place Georges Brugmann, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 345 0285, wouters-hendrix.com
2. Tiffany & Co
Known for sourcing the world’s most
beautiful diamonds to produce its
signature range of engagement rings,
Tiffany enjoys a romantic reputation
that is internationally renowned.
Tiffany & Co, 60 boulevard de Waterloo, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 501 6633,tiffany.com * for map go to page 53
3. Bulgari
Founded in 1884, Bulgari has become
synonymous with Italian glamour,
offering a luxurious jewellery collection
complemented by a range of watches,
leather goods and accessories.
Bulgari, 36 boulevard de Waterloo, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 511 6701, bulgari.com
* for map go to page 53
1
Global Blue Retailer
BrusseLs’ BesT
jeWeLLery BouTiques
52 | GUIDE
Rue Antoine Dansaert
RUE DU PÉNE
KOGELSTRAAT
G
RO
OT
SER
MEN
STRA
AT
PL. SAINT-GÉRY
RU
E PA
UL D
EVAU
X
HOPSTR A AT
RU
E D
U R
EM
PA
RT
DE
S M
OIN
ES
FABRIEKSSTR AAT KARTUIZERSSTRAAT
RUE DE FLANDRE
RU
E D
E F
LA
ND
RE
QU
AI A
U B
OIS
À B
RȖ
LE
R
QU
AI A
UX
BR
IQU
ES
RUE ANTO
INE D
AN
SAERT
RU
E AN
TOIN
E DAN
SAERT
RU
E L
ÉO
N L
EP
AG
E
PL. SAIN
TE-CATHERINE
RUE VAN A
RTEVELDE
RUE NOTRE-DAME DU SO
MM
EIL
●
VIR
T & R
EAL
●
HA
LELUIA
●
ICO
N
● H
OET
● A
SU
IVR
E
● C
ARIN
E GIL
SON
● L
ES PR
ÉCIEU
SES
● E
LISA
BETH
● Z
AD
IG &
VO
LTAIR
E
● E
LEVEN
PA
RIS
● A
RTHU
R OR
LAN
● M
AJE
● U
ND
ERWEA
R
● M
AC
● R
UE B
LAN
CHE
● R
EPLAY
● IK
KS
● S
AR
AH P
ACINI
● B
UFFA
LLO
● P
RINCESSE T
AM
TA
M
● P
HA
RM
ACIE U
NIV
ERSELLE
Place Sainte-
Catherine
Y-DR
ESS ●
MA
RC BY
MA
RC JACOBS ●
THE K
OO
PLES ●
CAN
VAS W
HIT
E ●
ESSENTIE
L ●
STIJL ●
AN
NEM
IE V
ERBEK
E ●
PLUS O
NE ●
BASH ●
BE ORIG
INA
L ●
MA
RIAN
NE T
IMPER
MA
N ●
ON
E STEP ●
FILIP
PA K ●
COTÉLAC ●
KUR
E ●
SAN
DRO
●
COM
PTOIR
DES C
OTO
NN
IER
S ●
KA
RTELL ●
HU
NTIN
G AN
D
COLLECTIN
G ●
MAISON MARTINMARGIELA ●
● N
ICO
LAS W
OIT
LA FABRICA ●
NDC MADE BY HAND ●
CAFÉ COSTUME ●
KAT&
MU
IST ●
STIJL
● M
EN
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue
1. Café Costume
During an appointment-only consultation
at Café Costume, the store’s tailors dem-
onstrate their commitment to traditional
craftsmanship and high quality fabrics.
Café Costume, 24 rue Léon Lepage, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 513 5444, cafecostume.com
2. NDC Made by Hand
NDC Made by Hand’s footwear combines
the finest Tuscan leather with talented
craftsmen to produce timeless styles.
NDC Made by Hand, 36 rue Léon Lepage, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 808 3831, ndcmadebyhand.com
3. Stijl
Stijl is something of a landmark in
Belgium’s fashion landscape, known for
stocking both high-end Belgian designer
labels and emerging talents. The store
now offers pieces by Dries Van Noten, Ann
Demeulemeester and Raf Simons, as well
as providing a platform for local up-and-
coming designers.
Stijl, 74 rue Antoine Dansaert, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 512 0313, stijl.be
Top SToreS
2
P.27
P.26
SHOP | 53
Boulevard de Waterloo &
Avenue de la Toison d’Or
RU
E DE B
URG
ER
KA
PIT
EIN
CR
EP
EIS
TR
AA
T
RU
E E
RN
ES
T AL
LA
RD
RU
E D
ES
DR
AP
IER
S
RU
E DE
S CH
EV
AL
IER
S
RU
E DE L
A R
EG
EN
CE
BOULEVARD D
E WATERLOO
AV
. LO
UIS
E
RU
E AU
X L
AIN
ES
RU
E AU
X L
AIN
ES
AVENUE DE L
A TOISON D
’OR
CH
AU
SS
É D
’LX
EL
LE
S
RU
E D
E N
AM
UR
NEU
HA
US ●
WO
LFERS ●
7 FOR
ALL M
AN
KIN
D ●
LE TAN
NEU
R ●
GIN
EL ●
HÄ
STEN
S ●
SA
MS
ON
ITE BLA
CK
LAB
EL ●
SC
APA
●
LA M
AIS
ON
DU
DIA
MA
NT ●
MA
NA
LYS JO
AILLER
IE ●
LA P
ERLA
●
BR
UN
ELLO C
UCIN
ELLI ●
ERIC B
OM
PAR
D ●
LOR
O P
IAN
A ●
HA
CK
ETT ●
BU
RB
ERR
Y ●
AB
ERC
RO
MB
IE & FITC
H ●
AR
MA
NI JU
NIO
R ●
BO
SS B
Y H
UG
O B
OS
S ●
RO
BER
T CLER
GER
IE ●
DELVA
UX
●
GIO
RG
IO A
RM
AN
I ●
LIAIG
RE ●
ERM
ENEG
ILDO
ZEG
NA
●
SC
AB
AL ●
SER
GIO
RO
SS
I ●
BU
LGA
RI ●
CH
RIS
TOFLE ●
GILS
ON
●
FACO
NN
AB
LE ●
TOD
'S ●
EMP
OR
IO A
RM
AN
I ●
PAU
LE KA
●
GU
CCI ●
HER
MÈS ●
RA
LPH
LAU
REN
●
JIMM
Y C
HO
O ●
CA
RTIER
●
SO
NIA
RY
KIEL ●
RO
LEX
BY
LAS
CA
R ●
M. LA
SC
AR
●
YV
ES DELO
RM
E ●
PATRIZ
IA P
EPE ●
DIA
NE V
ON
FUR
STEN
BER
G ●
LOU
IS VU
ITTON
●
CH
RIS
TIAN
DIO
R ●
SA
LVATOR
E FERR
AG
AM
O ●
CH
AN
EL ●
VER
SA
CE ●
FRATELLI R
OS
SETTI ●
TIFFAN
Y &
CO. ●
● P
UM
A
● ICI PA
RIS X
L
& O
THER
● S
TOR
IES
● TA
KE O
FF
● P
RA
NG
LE
● P
ULS
ION
● FN
●
AC
GA
LERIE TO
ISO
N D
'OR
● CO
SY
NS B
IJOU
TERIE
● X
AN
DR
ESS
● TO
MM
Y H
ILFIGER
● N
EUH
AU
S
● H
EMA
● P
LAN
ET PAR
FUM
● U
NO
DE 50
● LA
UTR
ÈC CH
AU
SS
UR
ES
● G
EOX
● A
UB
AD
E
● K
IEHL'S
● ES
PR
IT
● C
ATIMIN
I
● 10
01 PATTES
● M
OR
GA
N
● C
YR
ILLUS
● B
OG
GI M
ILAN
I
● P
ETIT BATEA
U
● IC
E WATC
H
● B
OU
VY
NA
TAN
●
PAR
MEN
TIER ●
globalblue.com
Neuhaus
Established in 1857 and credited with the
invention of the praline, Neuhaus has an
illustrious heritage. The company’s warmly
decorated boutiques provide an ideal set-
ting for the brand’s high quality range.
Neuhaus, 20 avenue de la Toison d’Or, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 513 1547,neuhaus-online-store.com
pierre Marcolini
Pierre Marcolini is known for his unique
flavour blends. Expect flavour options to
include pepper, chestnut and patchouli.
Pierre Marcolini, 75 avenue Louise, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 538 4224, marcolini.be * for map go to page 54
Wittamer
Wittamer’s range includes handmade
chocolates, macaroons and pastries.
Wittamer, 6-13 place du Grand Sablon, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 512 3742, wittamer.com
beST CHoColaTe SHopS
P.51
P.51
54 | GUIDE
Avenue Louise
RUE D
E BURGER
KA
PIT
EIN
CR
EP
EIS
TR
AA
T
JEAN D
’ARDEN
NESTRAAT
RUE TASSON-SNEL
R
UE S
OU
VER
AIN
E
R
UE D
E LA C
ON
CORDE
RUE V
EYDT
RU
E D
ES
DR
AP
IER
S
DEFACQZSTRAAT
RUE DEFACQZ
RUE BOSQUET
RUE BERCKMANS
RU
E D
E LIV
OU
RN
E
RU
E D
E LIV
OU
RN
E
RUE BLANCHE
RU
E FAID
ER
R
UE D
U BEAU S
ITE
RU
E DES C
HE
VA
LIE
RS
R
UE PAUL EMILE JANSON
RUE DU PRINCE ROYAL
R
UE DEFACQZ
AV
. LOU
ISE
AV
EN
UE
LOU
ISE
AV
EN
UE
LOU
ISE
AV
EN
UE
LOU
ISE
AV
EN
UE
LOU
ISE
AV
EN
UE
LOU
ISE
CH
AU
SS
ÉE
DE
CH
AR
LE
RO
I
C
HA
US
SÉ
E D
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● GRAND OPTICAL
● BOUVY
● ZARA
● GALERIA IN
NO
● M
ASSIMO DUTTI
● GUESS
● 123
● ZARA HOME
● CELIO CLUB
● BCBGMAXAZRIA
● COS
● MAJE
● SUPERDRY
● OPTIC & VISION
● W
OLFORD
● M
ARC O'POLO
● IN
TIMISSIM
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● APOSTROPHE
● CAROLL
● M
ADURO
● UN JOUR AILLEURS
● J.M. W
ESTON
● BIJOUX BURMA
● ANNICK GOUTAL
● CHURCH'S
●
URBAN OUTFITTERS
FREYWILLE ●
NESPRESSO ●
KAREN MILLEN ●
LONGCHAMP ●
ICI PARIS XL ●
MAX & CO ●
MONTBLANC ●
HUGO BOSS ●
TARA JARMON ●
MARINA RINALDI ●
MAX MARA ●
CAROLINE BISS ●
GÉRARD DAREL ●
DEVERNOIS ●
MICHAEL KORS ●
BOSE ●
PULL & BEAR ●
VILLEROY & BOCH ●
RIVER WOODS ●
PELLINI ●
THE FASHION
OUTLET ●
BASE ●
BOWEN ●
MAC ●
● CASHMERE STORE
●
NO CONCEPT
● COLLECTION D'HEURE
● LES ATELIERS DE LA M
AILLE
● NATHAN-BAUME M
AROQUINERIE
● DAVID M
AYER
● JEAN-PAUL BARRIOL
● THÉOPHILE & PATACHOU
● NATAN
● W
ILLMAN PARIS
GULLIVER BIG
● & TALL SIZE
● SENTEURS D'AILLEURS
● LOUISE FIFTYFOUR
● MAJE
● FURLA
● FRANCIS FERENT
● KONSTANTINE STARKE
● SANDRO
● CLAUDIE PIERLOT
● ESSENTIEL
● NOUKIE'S
● THE KOOPLES
● PRONUPTIA
● BONPOINT
● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS
● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE
● MER DU NORD
● SARAH PACINI
● RODIER
NEUHAUS ●
JOHN BRAYE ●
GANT ●
WEILL ●
LA MAISON DE LA PERLE ●
SERNEELS ●
VIA VERRI ●
BOUTIQUE LUISA ●
BLAZER ●
HOLEMANS ●
PIERRE MARCOLINI ●
HALL OF TIME ●
CROSSWORD ●
AXIS MUNDO ●
EASY M ●
CRICKET & CO ●
TINOK ●
DOD JUNIOR ●
181 BY FRANCESCO ROSSI ●
DAVIDOFF ●
SUBDUED ● PARALLELE ●
CHAUSSURES CALPIERRE●
TOU
IJAR
CR
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●
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue
P.53
SHOP | 55
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GRANDCAFÈ HORTA
STADSFEESTZAAL
Hotel Les Nuits
Antwerp
Tourist InformationHotelPlace Of Interest
page
56
page
56
page
57
page
58
56 | GUIDE
Lombardevest
Komedieplaats & Korte Gasthuisstraat
Kammenstraat
Nationalestraat
Huidevettersstr. & Lange Gasthuisstraat
● REPLAY
● ALL SAINTS
● FITTZ
● LEVI’S
● PLAYLIFE
● ADIDAS
● ANN ZELIEN
● VANS
● RINGS & THINGZ
● FORNARINA
SAM FRIDAY INTIMATES ●
LEE ●
FISH & CHIPS ●
HEAVER PLAYGROUND ●
PEPE JEANS ●
SACHA ●
MONIQUE STAM ●
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VIER ●
UB X-TREME ●
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FRAGILE ●
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COMPANY ●UNO DE 50 ●
GANT ●MASSIMO DUTTI ●
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PETIT BATEAU ●PAUL & SHARK ●CAROLINE BISS ●
BROOKLYN ●
BANANA MOON ●PANDORA ●
DODE ZEE COSMETICS ●
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FRED PERRY AUTHENTIC ●
TIM
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● OSKA● LILA GRACE
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HILDE VAN BELLEGHEM ●
ZAPA ●SCHUMACHER ●
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DAVID MAYER ●GARDE-ROBE NATIONALE ●
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● Y
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● G
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● P
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● POMELLATO
● MALIPARMI● VIE
● RENEE LANG
● ROSA CLARA● ERIC BOMPARD
● SCAPA
LONGCHAMP ●POLO RALPH LAUREN ●
LOUIS VUITTON ●X-LINE ●
SHAMADI LINGERIE ●RUE BLANCHE ●
AMBIORIX ●
KO
ME
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PL
AA
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VAN LIMBERGEN GALLERY
● W HOPLAND● SUPERDRY● OXFORD WOMEN● H&M● EDISAC● 1000 POOT● JUST A SHOE
● GILOU GISARAH ● PACINI
● NEUHAUS● TALKING FRENCH
AMSTERDAM'S BLAUW ●
MARCOZ ●HAMPTON
BAYS ● CKS ●
COS ●DE GROENE
WOLK ●
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TAEYMANS ●FALKE ●
SUPERTRASH ●STATE OF ART ●
KO
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NARA CAMICIE ●
BOUTIQUE OLIVIER
DELFORGES ●
BEOSTORE ●
PRINCESS BLUE ●LILITH ● ● CHARLOTTE
● PRINCESS BLUE
● WILLEM● DR ADAMS
● MAC ● TARACCI
Place Of InterestGlobal Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
SHOP | 57
Meir & Hopland
KO
LVE
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STADSFEESTZAAL:
COS
CROCS
DEAD SEA COSMETICS
ICI PARIS XL
JUST A SHOE
LLOYD SHOES
MEN AT WORK
SACHA
TOMMY HILFIGER
Department Store Shopping Centre/Mall
1. Rosier 41
The eclectic mix of labels stocked at
Rosier 41 includes both Belgian and
international designers.
Rosier 41, Rosier 41, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 225 5303, rosier41.be
2. Your
Your boutique prides itself on originality
and stocks a range of fashion, accessories,
books, cosmetics and gadgets from a mix
of high-end labels and little-known brands.
Your, Kloosterstraat 90, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 337 7110, your-antwerp.com
3. Magazyn
Magazyn’s carefully curated interior fur-
nishings reflect its owner’s strictly defined
aesthetic. The majority of items are made
by hand using natural fabrics and a neutral
colour palette, with options ranging from
office equipment to large furniture.
Magazyn, Steenhouwersvest 34A, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 226 6606, magazyn.be
AntweRp’s coolest
concept stoRes
3
P.2
4
Featured In This Issue
58 | GUIDE
Vestingstraat Pelikaanstraat
Leysstraat & De Keyserlei
EDEN DIAMONDS ●
DIAMOND CENTER ●
WHITE DIAMONDS ●
RIKI DIAMONDS ●
EDEN ●
RON ●
DIAMOND CREATIONS ●
ORDINI ●
BELLA ●
JULIA DIAMONDS ●
MALDINI DIAMONDS ●
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CREATIONS ●
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Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
60 | GUIDE
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Kepinski HotelDuke's Palace
Markt Burg
SimonStevinplein
Sint-Salvatorskerkhhof
Hotel De Tuileriën
The Pand Hotel
Bruges
Tourist Information HotelPlace Of Interest
PAGE
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SHOP | 61
Old Town
Markt
Burg
Burg
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PHILIPSTOCKSTR A AT
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ST
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● VENISE
● ROSALINE
● MAISON PICKERY
● KERSTBRUGGE
● DELVAUX
● NATURA● ROCOCO
● CHOCOLATIER VAN OOST ● THE BOTTLE SHOP
● KLEDING DE KAT ● BUBBLES AT HOME
● POINT DE ROSE ● CHOCOHOLIC
● NICKY M
● GALANTE
● CKS
L'ANGOLO ● HERENMODE
● DE 5 ZINTUIGEN
KANTENPARADIJS ●
JOSIANE ANSAELENS ●
● NICO TAEYMANS
● URSUS BRUGGHIAE
THEO ●BITTE KAI RAND ●
MC GREGOR ●JOAQUIM JOFRE ●
PICKERY ●CADEAUX MARGAUX ●
HET BRUGSCH THEEHUIS ●CHOCOLATE HAPPINESS ●
FLANDERS LACE ●MILLE FLEURS ●
AU POINT DE BRUGES ●CHOCOHOLIC ●
● ILSE DE CORTE
FILOU & FRIENDS ●
NICKY M ACCESSOIRES ●
DUE COLLECTION ●PEARLE ●
FNAC ●
● COTÉNOIR
DE
LVA
UX
●
Pergola Kaffee
Non-Global Blue Retailer CaféGlobal Blue Retailer
Above: Choco-Story
1. Enjoy epicurean delights
Discover the history of Belgium’s most
famous gastronomic specialities by touring
the Frietmuseum and Choco-Story. Visitors
to the Frietmuseum can try a plate of chips
in the basement café while Choco-Story
offers a selection of recipes that are sure
to inspire you to create your own pralines
at home.
Frietmuseum, Vlamingstraat 33, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 340150, frietmuseum.be
Choco-Story, Wijnzakstraat 2, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 612237, choco-story.be
2. Visit the Belfort
Climb the 366 steps of the Belfort tower
to be rewarded with panoramic views of
the city.
Bruges Belfort, Markt 7, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 448711, brugge.be/musea
3. Take a canal ride
Gain a striking perspective on Bruges’s
historic sights by taking a 30-minute trip
around the city’s famed canals.
ToP ThinGS To
do in BruGES
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62 | GUIDE
Steenstraat & Noordzandstraat
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● GAASTRATHE UNIQUE CHOCOLATE
● EXPERIENCE● FOOT LOCKER
● MOVE ON● GALERIA INNO● MEXX
● CAMAIEU● ZARA● C&A● GEOX● YVES ROCHER
● OKAÏDI● NOTEBOOM● CHOCOLATERIE ROOSE
● ICI PARIS XL● WE WOM● ENCASSIS● ESPRIT
● RUBICA● GILSON● LACE GALLERY
● CROCS● VENIZI● NEW LOOK● HEMA● ONE STEP
LOLA & LIZA ●SCORE ●SPRINGFIELD ●
SIX ●
MAGASIN JULES ●H&M ●FORMEN ●BASE SHOP ●GIRALDO ●BOCAGE ●ZARA ●PIECES ●
VERO MODA / JACK & JONES ●
VIVA BRUGGE ●LEONIDAS ●ETAM LINGERIE ●
AVANCE ●TIME SQUARE ●DIDI ●
TOMMY HILFIGER ●TALKING FRENCH ●
BONBON-VERHEECKE ●SWAROVSKI ●
PARIS-LONDRES ●L'OCCITANE ●
HUNKEMÖLLER ●RIVER WOODS ●CELIO ●WE MEN ●
UN JOUR AILLEURS ●PICKWICK ●PIMKIE ●MORGAN ● 123 ●NEUHAUS ●
● PICCO BELLO
● NOBODY● SCOTCH 'RBELLE● GERRY WEBER● MCGREGOR
● TOPOLINO● FORMEN● 7 CAMICIE● ESSENZA
● CAROLL● STATE OF ART● MISS SIXTY● MC GREGOR
MEPHISTO ●MAYERLINE ●
● VAN DALEN
● NOUKIES
ICI PARIS XL ●
DDP PARIS ●
VIA GUILA ●BJÖRN BORG ●L'HEROÏNE ●WOLFORD ●
G-STAR ●FANINI ●GÖSTAR ●
SARAH PACINI ●BROOKLYN ●
BELGACOM CENTER ●DIEPHUIS
LEDERWAREN ●
● SCAPA● PANDORA● KIPLING● LIU JO● JACK WOLFSKIN
● DANNEELS
● CAROLINE BISS● PETIT BATEAU
● EDISAC● PARIS-LONDRES
● PARALLAX● DE ARK VAN ZARREN
● QUIKE VITAL● IKKS● ZARA HOME
● STREET ONE● SAXON● SUPERDRY
● THE CHOCOLATE LIN
E
● D
ILLE &
KAMIL
LE
● R
UE BLANCHE
● L
ACE PARADISE
●
GALERIJ KOEN BROES
● S
TEPHAN DUMON
● MISS MOGGY
● MOGGY’S
● BBYB SHOP
● ROUGEGORGE
MAX MARA ●
GEERT POLLENTIER ●
● M
ANGO
CINQUE ●
DOMIQUE MEIR●
TENDRESSE ●
LUC DUCHENE ●REX ●HANS ANDERS ●VERITAS ●
Markt● RUE NORD
● MELVIN
● DE MOL FASHION
● NR 4377
MASSIMO DUTTI ●
ZARA KIDS ●
THE BODY SHOP ●ERAM ●
PEIRSEGAELE ●
MARLBORO CLASSICS ●
GÉRARD DAREL ●
KNAPP TARGA ●
VAN BOMMEL ●
KNAPP TARGA ●
MER DU NORD ●
PEAK PERFORMANCE ●
TWICE AS NICE ●SACHA ●
PAPRIKA ●
TOM TAILOR ●
EDC BY ESPRIT ●
WOMEN'SECRET ●H&M ●
OPTIEK DELBECQUE ●RITUALS ●
MOGGY'S ●
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
The best way to explore Bruges is by bike,
as the city is ideally suited to two-wheeled
travel. Attractions further afield are also
easily reached by bicycle and the medieval
village of Damme is an ideal day-trip
destination. The village is less than five
miles from Bruges, via a cycle path that
runs alongside a picturesque, tree-lined
canal. Pack a picnic to make a day of it.
TOP TIP
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Maasmechelen Village
How to GEt tHEREBy car
Leave the E314 at exit
33 and follow the signs
for Leisure Valley. At the
roundabout follow the
signed access road to Leisure
Valley and Maasmechelen
Village. the journey from
Antwerp and Brussels takes
about an hour.
By train
there is a regular
SNCB train service to
Ghent station, which is
20 minutes by taxi from
Maasmechelen Village.
By bus
De Lijn runs regular hourly
bus services (no 45) from
Ghent and Hasselt train
stations. the journey takes
an hour.
By Shopping Express®
A direct luxury coach
service runs daily from
rue du Marché aux
Herbes in Brussels to
Maasmechelen Village.
5pm
Sarah Pacini produces
feminine, timeless and
elegant collections made
from the fnest fabrics.
Maasmechelen Village,
Zetellaan 100,
3630 Maasmechelen,
+32 (0)89 774000,
maasmechelenvillage.com
Opening times
Monday-Friday: 10am-6pm
Saturday-Sunday:
10am-7pm
10am
Admire the theatrical
collections on ofer at Stijn
Helsen’s artistic store.
2pm
Emulate Californian chic
with a visit to Michael Kors’
glamourous boutique.
PERFECt DAY
64 |
Above: clam dish at Mer du Nord seafood stall
MY NEIGHBOURHOOD:
LAURENT GERBAUD
‘My favourite area of Brussels
is the central district of Saint-
Géry and place Sainte-Cathe-
rine. Here, it’s easy to do every-
thing on foot and I always bump
into a lot of friends en route.
‘Rue Dansaert is often rec-
ommended for its designer
shopping, but it is also home to
some of the best pubs in Brus-
sels. Place du Jardin aux Fleurs,
at the end of rue des Chartreux,
has some of my favourite neigh-
bourhood pubs and restaurants,
too. There are also several Bel-
gian designers there and it is
away from the frenzy of the city
centre. Au Daringman in rue
de Flandre is one of my favou-
rite secrets as it’s a real local
Flemish pub. Recently I’ve also
been spending time at Le Bar
des Amis on rue Sainte-Cath-
erine, which is a spacious place
with a really cool interior and
excellent gin and tonics.
‘I can often be found at my
favourite café, the tea-room
AM Sweet on rue des Char-
treux. It is the most delicious
and cosy place and has a family
atmosphere. I’m also a regular
Laurent Gerbaud is a talented Belgian
chocolatier who is renowned not only
for his exceptional confectionery
but also for his inspired use of spices
and Asian favours in his products.
He shares his local secrets with
Isabella Redmond Styles chocolatsgerbaud.be
SHOP | 65
Above (from top): Charli; Maison Dandoy
Find out more about Laurent
Gerbaud’s neighbourhood
at: globalblue.com/
neighbourhood
at Café Central at Saint-
Géry, one of the oldest cafés
in the area, which has a lovely
wooden interior, the best DJs at
the weekend, and cool staf. At
weekends, I like to go for brunch
at the fea market in place du Jeu
de Balle, enjoying a table on the
terrace at Pin Pon or at Chaf.
‘If I have friends visit-
ing Brussels, I’ll take them on
a food walking tour, from ar-
tisanal beers made by Belgian
micro-brewers at Moeder
Lambic at place Fontainas, to
Speculoos biscuits at Dandoy
at rue au Beurre. We’ll pass
bread and cheese – Charli and
Crèmerie de Linkebeek – at
Sainte-Catherine, and fnish
with a glass of white wine and
some maatjes (herrings) at Mer
du Nord. No chocolate on the
way, only savouries.
‘For a non-food related walk,
I prefer the south of Brussels,
next to my apartment, especially
Bois de la Cambre and Forêt de
Soignes. Brussels is very green
and has plenty of parks even in
the centre. It’s a city to discover
by walking, taking your time
and enjoying little things. Don’t
hesitate to ask store staf for ad-
vice on less touristy places; they
will always be very helpful, and
happy to advise you on how to
see the best of our city.’
66
/ 7773
81
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globalblue.com
67
Airport
Refund Ofces details:Brussels Zaventem Airport:
Departure Hall
Transit Hall
Amsterdam Schiphol Airport:
Departures 3/landside, next
to customs
Lounge 2/departures, gate E,
ABN AMRO Bank, counter 1
lounge 3/non-Schengen area
Departures 3/airside
Refund Ofces
Key
Landside
Check-in area
Information
Stairs
Security Control
Customs stamp
Refund Ofce 11
2Refund Ofce 2
Airside
GatesA01-A08
GatesC01-C50
Gates B01-B40
Departure
i
2
1
i
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Translations
69
В конце 1980-х шесть бельгийских дизайнеров ворвались на мировую модную сцену, и их история вскоре стала легендой. Анн Демельмейстер, Дрис Ван Нотен, Вальтер Ван Берендонк, Дирк Биккембергс, Дирк ван Саен и Марина Йи вместе учились в Королевской академии изящных искусств в Антверпене (Koninklijke Acad-emie voor Schone Kunsten Ant-
30: In Its Own Fashion
В своем стиле
РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОДwerpen), и вскоре после выпуска прогремели на весь мир как «Антверпенская шестерка».
Их совместный дебют состоялся в 1988 году на Лондонской неделе моды. В то время ни у кого из них не было денег, чтобы самостоятельно представить свою коллекцию, поэтому они объединились, загрузили одежду в фургон и отправились в Лондон. И сразу произвели фурор, а первый же заказ поступил от магазина Barneys New York.
Некоторые из них, особенно Дрис ван Нотен и Анн Демельмейстер, сумели добиться серьезного успеха и построить бренды мирового уровня (сама Демельмейстр покинула свой бренд в 2013 году). Другие, как, например, Вальтер Ван Бейрендонк, нашли себя в преподавании. Но дело даже не в том, как сложилась их профессиональная судьба. Гораздо важнее, что в тот момент шестерка дизайнеров стала той самой силой, способной изменить моду. Причем они не только преобразили тенденции и вкус, но и стали образцом для подражания для молодого поколения бельгийских дизайнеров.
Момент оказался весьма удачным. Антверпенская
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шестерка удачно вышла к публике в период тектонических сдвигов в мире моды. Крупные бренды тогда активно работали на всех континентах (Armani и Versace в Италии, а Ralph Lauren и Calvin Klein в Америке), и при всех их различиях, предлагали исключительно коммерческий подход к женской одежде. Новый авангард оказался на противоположном полюсе.
Дизайнеры из Японии, в том числе Рей Кавакубо (Comme des Garçon) и Йоджи Ямамото, оказались на авансцене за несколько лет до этого. С их появлением в тренд вышла совершенно новая эстетика - умная и вызывающая, ничего подобного в моде еще никогда не было. Таким образом, по целому ряду причин, все просто располагало к появлению великолепных бельгийцев. Их привлекательная авангардная эстетика очаровала новое поколение женщин, которым была так нужна созвучная времени одежда. И вскоре премьеры коллекций стали проходить главным образом в Париже.
Разумеется, для каждого из них характерен собственный стиль: например, насыщенная чувственность Дриса ван Нотена едва ли похожа на темную андрогинность в стиле рок Анн Демельмейстер. Но всегда остается нечто, что объединяет всех бельгийских дизайнеров, в том числе последовавшее по стопам новых
звезд молодое поколение.Модный стиль этой
страны всегда был и остается эмоциональным и индивидуалистичным. Он имеет дело с реальной женщиной, а не с абстрактными представлениями о женственности. Поэтому и коллекции вырастают органично, а не бросаясь от тренда к тренду каждый сезон. Демельмейстер объясняла это так: «Каждая коллекция для меня – это новый шаг, и каждый такой шаг очень важен. Поэтому я никогда не тороплюсь. Если я хочу сделать что-то новое, я стремлюсь сделать это хорошо».
Антверпенская шестерка во многом опередила свое время и даже предсказала будущее, ведь сейчас, спустя два десятилетия, мы живем в мире, где эмоциям отводится главная роль. По словам Демельмейстер, до звездного часа Антверпенской шестерки у Бельгии, по сути, не было собственного модного образа: «У нас нет богатого модного наследия, какой есть в Париже или Милане. Я всегда ощущала, что стою у истоков, поэтому могла ориентироваться на собственные идеи, - размышляет дизайнер. – Но это подразумевало и большую ответственность. Я должна была сделать нечто по-настоящему хорошее. Возможно, в этом источник больших амбиций бельгийских дизайнеров».
Их творческая судьба в значительной мере повлияла
71
на статус Академию изящных искусств в Антверпене. Раньше сюда поступали преимущественно бельгийцы. Однако теперь она признана одной из ведущих модных школ мира, а студенты приезжают учиться отовсюду. Разумеется, признание соотечественников придал сил и уверенности бельгийским творческим личностям. Оливье Тейскес, Хайдер Аккерман и Раф Симонс добились выдающегося мирового успеха. Постепенно поднимается еще одно молодое поколение, и возглавляет новую волну бельгийского дизайна Нильс Пирае. Их истории совсем не похожи друг на друга. Но они все впитали уроки тех шести дизайнеров, которые почти 30 лет назад вывели бельгийскую моду в авангард. Они выработали особый стиль – и в итоге только обогатили моду.
В 1958 году модный дом Delvaux создал культовую сумку Le Brillant. Она стала классикой и в то же время осталась в авангарде современной моде, - рассказывает Ханна Льюис
Большинство современных женщин не представляют своей повседневности без сумочки. Однако до того как путешествия по железной дороге получили
38: In Focus: Delvaux’s Le
Brillant Bag
В фокусе: Сумка Le Brillant от Delvaux
повсеместное распространение, потребность в дамских сумках была далеко не очевидной. В 19 веке чемоданных дел мастер Шарль Делво сумел предсказать, как именно технологическое развитие повлияет на образ жизни женщин. Он предположил, что получив свободу путешествий, они захотят держать личные вещи поближе к себе. Так семейное предприятие, которым он управлял, заинтересовалось новым направлением, а в 1908 году был зарегистрирован первый патент на модель дамской сумочки.
Компания Delvaux – один из старейших в мире роскошных модных домов, специализирующихся на коже: он был основан в Брюсселе в 1829 году. Можно даже сказать, что он старше самой P
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Бельгии, ведь страна получила независимость от Нидерландов только в 1830 году. В наши дни тысячи людей по всем миру восхищаются умением Delvaux придерживаться своей традиции и в то же время оставаться в авангарде. Кроме того, бренд неизменно хранит верность исключительному качеству. Все это помогает ему не только лидировать в сфере роскоши, но последовательно выстраивать надежную репутацию. Невозможно переоценить и влияние Delvaux на состояние индустрии в целом: когда-то эта компания создала спрос на роскошные сумки, а потом первой стала выпускать готовые коллекции кожгалантереи в соответствии с модными сезонами.
За 185 лет под маркой Delvaux вышло более 3000 моделей, и каждая из них была проработана самым тщательным образом. Для этой компании сумка – практически один из жанров скульптуры, где утонченное мастерство напрямую влияет на ясность формы и выраженную простоту стиля. Каждая вещь прорабатывает вручную из лучших видов кожи в одной из фирменных мастерских в Бельгии и Франции. Исключительность бренда подтверждает и статус поставщика Бельгийского королевского двора, полученный в 1883 году.
Все модели Delvaux
совершенны и целостны по форме. Но именно Le Brillant можно назвать культовой. Ее премьера состоялась в 1958 году: она сразу получила заслуженное признание и вошла в число тех особенных вещей, обладание которыми – повод для гордости. Дизайнер Поль Гетальс придал Le Brillant ровный силуэт и мягкие, скругленные углы, дополнив лишь одной заметной деталью – большой пряжкой в центре. За прошедшие десятилетия она повлияла на дизайн сумок в целом. Но если другие аксессуары призваны привлекать внимание, то Le Brillant транслирует неподвластный времени стиль и лаконичную элегантность.
Своим статусом эта модель во многом обязана неповторимому качеству. Бригитт Марк работает в компании Delvaux уже 45 лет и не понаслышке знакома со всеми тонкостями производственного процесса: «Над каждой Le Brillant работает пять человек, - объясняет она. – Им требуется от восьми до 10 часов на весь цикл - от первых разрезов кожи до финальных штрихов». Именно эта модель задает уровень, по которому судят обо всей продукции бренда, и сотрудники Delvaux осознают свою ответственность: «Если мастер способен проработать Le Brillant, то он или она может создать и любую другую сумку нашего модного дома», - добавляет Марк
Она относит непреходящий
73
66: When You Shop The
World, Shop Tax Free
Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с tax free
Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shop-ping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира.Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.
успех модели Le Brillant на счет детально продуманного дизайна. Каждая сумка собирается из 64 кусочков кожи, и эти лекала не меняются с 1958 года. Этого и не требуется: по словам Бригитт Марк, «каждый элемент был в свое время идеально проработан». С учетом вневременного стиля и великолепного качества, сумки Delvaux служат многие годы: Le Brillant уже стала предметом коллекционирования, и ее передают по наследству как истинную ценность. С первых же дней она пришлась по душе самым стильным женщинам мира, и ее востребованность только растет со временем. Королева Бельгии Матильда, журналистка и стилист Тиани Кирилофф, знаток моды из Кореи Ким На Янг – самые разные лидеры мнений носят Le Brillant с нескрываемой гордостью.
Каждый сезон эта культовая модель переосмысляется в новых цветах и материалах. С одной стороны, она остается классической. Однако Del-vaux делает ставку на модные инновации, поэтому старается развивать даже культовые вещи. Например, в коллекции Les Humeurs de Brillant («Настроения Brillant») бренд пробовал на прочность свое умение адаптироваться к вызовам времени и оставаться на передовой креативности в любых условиях. Эта серия включает в себя девять
специальных сумок Le Brillant, воплощающих различные концепты – Le Rêve («Мечта»), La Singularité («Оригинальность») и другиеКлассическая черная вариация L’Humour создана под вдохновением от картин бельгийского художника éене Магритта из серии «Вероломство образов». Поэтому ее украшает надпись ‘ceci n’est pas un Delvaux’ («Это не Delvaux»). Опираясь на бельгийское художественное наследие, эта сумка успешно сочетает модернизм с неподвластной времени элегантностью. И этот уровень вполне соответствует статусу одной из старейших кожевенных компаний в мире.delvaux.com
globalblue.com
74
美文翻译
像比利时这样的迷你国度是如何征服世
界秀场的?Clare Coulson为您解答
在19 8 0年代末期,六名比利时设计
师在 时尚舞台上崭露头角,他们的故
事也自此成 为传奇。Ann Demeu l
eester、Dries VanNoten、WalterVan
Beirendonck、Dirk Bikkembergs、
Dirk vanSaene与 Marina Yee六人
一同在Koninklijke Academie voorSchone Kunsten Antwerpen(安特
卫普皇家美术学院)学习,并被并称为安
特卫普六君子。1988年的伦敦时装周之
旅让他们初露头角。由于没有足够的经
费单独发布自己的作品,六位设计师共
同集资,驾驶着装满衣服的卡车一路开
到了伦敦。在那里他们引起了强烈反响,
并从纽的Barneys百货公司获得了第一
张订单。
其中最引人瞩目的Dr i e s Va n
Noten与Ann Demeulemeester继续
奋斗,打造出空前成功与极具影响力的
全球事业版图。(但Demeulemeester
30: In Its Own Fashion
自成一格
1. В магазинеГде бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохораните чеки.
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Контакты:[email protected]+421 232 111 111Потратьте минимум €125.01 и сэкономьте до 16% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.
75
在1958年皮具制造商Delvaux推出了
标志性手袋Le Bril lant。该款设计在
今日仍不失创意又经典十足,Hannah
Lewis报道
对大多数当代女性而言,离开手提袋的
生活是不可想象的。然而在铁路旅行尚
未普及之前,对于手提袋的需求还不广
泛。在19世纪,旅行箱制造商Charles
Delvaux意识到铁路革命将对女性造成
的影响,当她们开始四处旅行之际,定需
要随身携带个人物品。由此,该家族企业
38: In Focus:
Delvaux’s Le Brillant Bag
聚焦:Delvaux的Le Brillant手袋
于2013年宣告离开她的自名品牌)以
Walter Van Beirendonck为首的若干
人亦则投身教学。但无论之后的境遇如
何变化,在那刻这六位设计师凝聚成一
股颠覆时尚界的力量,他们不仅为业界
带来审美口味上的转变,更激励了新一
代的比利时设计师。
时机就是一切。安特卫普六君子的
出现,恰逢时尚界发生激变之时。全球知
名品牌分别在不同的大洲上拓展(Ar-
man i与Versace在意大利,Ra lph
Lauren和Calvin Klein在美国),这些
品牌虽大相径庭,但都出品着高度商业化
的女装系列。与之形成鲜明度对比的是
前卫时尚的兴起。山本耀司与Comme
des Garçon的川久保玲等日本设计师,
在这之前的几年突然蹿红,一种全新的
的时尚美学得以催生。这是对传统的质
疑但也是值得庆贺的事。他们为时尚界
带来许多前所未见的东西。所以对比利
时人而言时机已经成熟,他们酷感十足
的前卫美学,正满足了新一代女性以时
装发声、反映时代变革的渴望。
虽然安特卫普六君子继续前往巴黎
发布作品,并且以组合的方式呈现,但实
际上他们之间的差异性相当显著。举例
而言,Dries Van Noten作品中饱含的
细腻情感,与Demeulemeester暗黑硬
朗的中性化设计截然不同。即便如此,他
们仍旧被某些羁绊联合在一起,如同紧
随其后的其他比利时设计师一般。
比利时式的美学从古至今都是感
性、个人化、崇尚真实的女性特质,而非
某些极端的女性化概念。他们的作品并
非跟着潮流突变,而是循序渐进地有机
进化着。正如Demeulemeester离开前
所解释的,“每个系列都是新的一步,而每
一步都很重要。我从不着急。如果要做
些创新的东西,我希望把它做好。”
从今日被情感所主导的世界来看,
安特卫普六君子在很多方面都领先于他
们的时代,有着预言式的先见之明。
对于Demeulemeester而言,她的
创作初衷可以追溯到安特卫普六君子出
现之前的比利时,当时这个国家并没有属
于自己的风格。“在比利时,我们并没有
像巴黎或米兰那样的庞大时尚遗产。我
总是觉得自己必须从零开始,以创作一些
真正属于自己的东西,”这位设计师思考
着。“然而这也催生了某种责任感。我必
须要做出一些很不错的东西来。这或许
就是比利时人的野心。”
这批先驱者的辉煌为Koninklijke
Academie voor Schone Kunsten
Antwerpen(安特卫普皇家美术学院)
在时尚界挣得一席之地。在安特卫普六
君子诞生之前,这所学校基本只招收比
利时本土学生。然而这批设计师的崛起,
为其奠定了全球最佳时装学校之一的地
位,全球范围内的学生纷至沓来。自然,
它对于比利时本土设计人才具有更大的
吸引力。
Oliv ier Theyskens、Haider
Ackermann与Raf Simons等设计师
分别以不同的方式,获得了全球性的巨大
成功。其他后起之秀如Niels Peeraer等人,也正积极推动着比利时设计的新浪
潮。这些设计师虽然风格迥异,但都从
30年前崛起的那六位设计师获得了不少
领悟。他们各自确立的独特风格,为时尚
界带来愈加丰富的可能。
globalblue.com
76
开始制造包手提袋,并在1908成为历史
上首个为包袋设计申请专利的公司。
1829年成立于布鲁塞尔的Del-
vaux,是全世界历史最悠久的奢侈品
皮具制造商之一。事实上该公司的成立
甚至要早于比利时建国,后者在1830
年才脱离荷兰统治宣告独立。公司很快
在世界各地赢得了巨大声誉。Delvaux
在创新的同时保 持传统,并以对质量
的承诺为企业核心,因此获得了世人的
尊崇,Delvaux也走在各类奢侈品发
展的最前沿。从挖掘对超级奢侈手袋
与日俱增的需求,到成为首家与高级定
制发布季同步推出系列的奢华皮具品
牌,Delvaux是业界游戏规则的制定
者。
Delvaux公司在过去185年中,共
推出了3000多个手袋设计,每一款都匠
心独具。品牌将手袋视为雕塑的一种形
式,偏爱采用结构性强的设计,并以复杂
工艺来演绎简约外观。品牌使用来自法国
与意大利的顶级皮革,且每件Delvaux
产品都是在位于比利时与法国的车间中
手工制作的。Delvaux也是一个拥有无
上荣耀的品牌,它持有比利时皇室颁布
的皇家认证,并且在1883年就首次荣获
了这份殊荣。
每件Delvaux的设计都力求尽善尽
美。然而品牌的招牌手袋Le Brillant是
具有时代性的。它于1958年推出后即刻
受到好评,蹿升为炙手可热的单品。设计
师Paule Goethals打造的Le Brillant
包拥有简洁的线条与柔和圆润的边缘。
包袋中央的夸张搭扣是唯一吸引眼球的
部分,它所散发出的低调优雅,俨然成为
今日时尚着装的金科玉律。在这款包发
布后的几十年间,它对手袋设计产生了深
远的影响。尽管不断有新款包袋争相吸
引人们的目光,Le Brillant依旧是永恒
风尚与低调奢华的缩影。
Le Brillant的吸引力还在于其精湛
的制作工艺。工艺大师Brigitte Marcq
为Delvaux工作了45年,对其繁复的制
作过程了如指掌。“制作一个Le Bril-
lant包需要五人参与,”她解释。“从切
割皮革到最后上色的全过程,需要8到
10个小时。”对于Delvaux的工匠们而
言,Le Bril lant是需要学会制作的最
重要的产品,因为它是该品牌所有包袋
的评判准绳。“当一名工匠可以制作Le
Brillant的时候,他或她就可以制作任何
Delvaux公司的包袋,”Marcq补充道。
Marcq认为Le Brillant的久盛不
衰,还因其经过慎重考量的设计。该款包
拥有由64块皮革组成的独特结构,并且
从1958年以来就从未改变过,因为,她
说,“每个组件都是经过深思熟虑的”。归
功于设计与工艺,每个包都拥有难以置
信的超长使用寿命。每位收藏者都期望
拥有一只Le Brillant手袋,并将其代代
相传。从这款包诞生之日起就受到时尚
女性的追捧,时至今日依旧抢手。从比利
时女王Mathilde,记者兼设计师Tiany
Kiriloff,到韩国时尚名媛李娜英,显贵
达人们在今日仍以携带Le Brillant为
骄傲。
Le Brillant在每季都选用新的色
彩与材质进行重新塑造。这或许是一款
经典手袋,但奢华皮具制造商Delvaux
同样以创新闻名,即使是 旗 下的标 志
作品仍不例外。在Les Humeurs de
Brillant(Brillant的表情)系列中,品
牌探索了不断适应变化时代并居于潮流
前列的可能。这个系列中包括九款特别版
的Le Brillant手袋,每款都体现着不同
的概念,从Le Rêve(梦)到La Singu-
PH
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eg
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77
当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商
店消费时,环球蓝联(Global Blue)购
物退税服务(Tax Free Shopping)为
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66: When You Shop The
World, Shop Tax Free
畅购全球,尊享退税
小国ベルギーが世界のキャットウォーク
を席巻しているのはどうして?クレア・コ
ールソンが答えを見つけた。
1980年代後半に、ベルギー出身の6人の
デザイナーがファッションシーンに踊り
30: In Its Own Fashion
「自分なり」がベルギー風
日本語翻訳larité(奇点)。受到比利时艺术家René
Magritte的绘画作品The Treachery
of Images的启发,L’Humour是一款
绣着传奇口号“ceci n’est pas un Del-
vaux(这不是一只Delvaux包袋)”的
经典款黑色Le Brillant手袋。从比利时
艺术遗产中的超现实主义的奇思妙想中
汲取养分,这款包融合了摩登与永恒优
雅。Delvaux作为全球最古老奢侈皮具
公司之一, 远远地超越了大众的期望。
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出た。その話は今や伝説になっている。
その6人とはアン・ドゥムルメステール、ド
リス・ヴァン・ノッテン、ウォルター・ヴァ
ン・ベイレンドンク、ダーク・ビッケンバー
グ、ダーク・ヴァン・セーヌ、マリーナ・イ
ーで、アントワープ王立芸術学院の同窓
生だったことから「アントワープ・シック
ス」として知られるようになる。彼らが業
界に足跡を記したのは、1988年のロンド
ン・ファッションウィークがきっかけだっ
た。誰も単独で参加しコレクションを披
露するだけの資金がなかったため、グル
ープとしてエントリーし、ワゴン車に服を
満載してロンドンへ。そこで大反響を呼
び、バーニーズ・ニューヨークから初オー
ダーが入る。
以来、6人のうち一部(中でもドリ
ス・ヴァン・ノッテンとアン・ドゥムルメス
テール)は国際的にビジネスを展開して
大成功を収め、影響力のあるブランドを
築き上げた。(ドゥムルメステールは2013
年11月に自分のブランドを去っている
が。)ウォルター・ヴァン・ベイレンドンク
など他の面々は、教鞭もとっている。後
の展開はどうあれ、この6人はあの時ロン
ドンでファッション界を変える力となり、
テイストの変化を促したばかりか、ベル
ギーの新世代デザイナーにインスピレー
ションを与えた。
全てはタイミングだった。アントワー
プ・シックスが台頭してきた時は、ちょう
どファッションの大転換期だったのだ。
各大陸で国際ブランドが発達し(イタリ
アではアルマーニやヴェルサーチ、アメ
リカではラルフ・ローレンやカルバン・ク
ライン)、互いに独自性を持ちながら、ま
さに一般市場向けのウーマンズウェアを
こぞって提供していた。その対極では、
新しいアヴァンギャルドファッションが出
現しつつあった。山本耀司やコム・デ・ギ
ャルソンの川久保玲など、日本人デザイ
ナーたちが数年前からにわかに台頭し、
全く新しい美感が生まれていたのだ。挑
戦的で知性に訴える、それまでのファッ
ション界には無かった感覚だ。このよう
に、いろんな点でベルギー人デザイナー
が登場する舞台は既に整っていた。そし
て、彼らのクールでアヴァンギャルドな美
学が、時代にマッチした服を求める新世
代の女性を興奮させたのだ。
6人はその後はパリでショーを開催
することが多くなる。「6人衆」と括られ
ることが多いが、彼らの美的感覚は実は
大きく異なっている。たとえば、ドリス・
ヴァン・ノッテンのリッチな感性は、ドゥ
ムルメステールのダークでロックかぶれ
風の両性的な感じとは全く違う。そうし
た違いがありながら、彼らを結び、後に
続くベルギー出身デザイナーにも共通す
る何かがあるのだ。
ベルギーの感性は昔も今も情緒的
で個性的であり、観念としての女性らし
さの追求というよりは、現実の女性をテ
ーマにしている。コレクションも、トレン
ドからトレンドへシーズンごとに急転換
するのでなく、有機的に進化する。ドゥム
ルメステールが自名を冠したブランドを
去る前に言ったように、「それぞれのコレ
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38: In Focus:
Delvaux’s Le Brillant Bag
注目のアイテム:
デルヴォーのブリヨンバッグ
1958年、革製品メーカーのデルヴォー
がアイコニックなバッグ「ブリヨン」を創
った。そのデザインは古典的でありなが
ら、今も革新性を追求し続けている。ハ
ンナ・ルイスがレポートする。
多くの現代女性にとって、ハンドバッグ
の無い生活は考えられない。だが、鉄道
旅行が発達する前は、誰もがハンドバッ
グを必要とする世界には程遠かった。19
世紀に、トランク職人シャルル・デルヴォ
ーは、鉄道革命が女性に与える影響に
思い至り、移動が可能になれば所持品
を手元近くに持っておきたいと思うだろ
うと考えた。そこで、デルヴォー一家が
経営する会社はその目的用のバッグを開
発。1908年にはハンドバッグのデザイン
について特許を申請した先駆け企業の
一つとなる。
1829年にブリュッセルで創業した
デルヴォーは、世界最古の高級革製品メ
ーカーの一つ。実際、1830年にオランダ
から独立を宣言したベルギーの建国より
古い。その同社は世界中で優れた評判
クションが新たなステップであり、一つ
一つのステップが重要」なのだ。「私は
決して先を急ぎません。何か新しいこと
をしたいと思ったら、それをうまくやりた
いんです。」
アントワープ・シックスは多くの面
で時代を先取りし、情緒が先行する今日
の世界を実に鋭く読んでいた。
ドゥムルメステールにとって6人の
共通点はというと、おそらく「アントワー
プ・シックスが登場するまで、ベルギー独
特のルックスというものが存在しなかっ
た」という事実に行きつくだろう。「ベル
ギーはパリやミラノのようにファッション
の大いなる伝統がなく、いつもゼロから
出発しなければならないと感じていまし
た。だから、自分自身のスタイルを創り
出すことができたんだと思います」と、彼
女は振り返る。「一方で、責任感も感じ
ました。何か本当に良いものを創らなく
ては、という気持ちです。たぶんそれが、
ベルギー出身者が持つ野心なんだと思
います。」
彼女たちの活躍で、アントワープ王
立芸術学院の名が挙がったのは間違い
ない。同校は以前はベルギーの学生がほ
とんどだったが、アントワープ・シックス
の台頭で世界有数のファッション学院と
しての地位が確立され、国外からの学生
も徐々に増えている。また、6人衆のおか
げでベルギー出身デザイナーの影響力
が強まったのは言うまでもない。
オリヴィエ・ティスケンス、ハイデ
ル・アッケルマン、ラフ・シモンズといった
デザイナーは、経緯は大きく異なるが、い
ずれも世界的大成功を収めている。そし
て、今またベルギーデザインのニューウェ
ーブを巻き起こしているのが、ニールス・
ペラールなど他の若手スターデザイナー
だ。それぞれが独特ながら、全員がほぼ
30年前に台頭した6人の経験を踏まえて
いる。自身のスタイルを確立した彼らが
加わって、ファッションはますます豊かに
なっている。
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を築き上げてきた。伝統を守りつつも革
新的で、あくまで品質にこだわる点が高
く評価されるデルヴォーは、高級品の発
展過程でたびたび先頭に立ってきた。超
高級ハンドバッグの需要増大に乗じ、ま
た、高級革製品ブランドとしては初めて
オートクチュールシーズンに合わせてコ
レクションを制作する等、デルヴォーは
業界のゲームチェンジャーだ。
デルヴォーでは、創業以来185年間
で3000点以上のハンドバッグをデザイ
ンし、その一つ一つを丹念に開発してき
た。ハンドバッグをほとんど一種の彫刻
のように考えているため、作品は構造的
な形が多く、見た目のシンプルさを複雑
な職人の技で実現している。デルヴォー
の商品は、フランスやイタリアから取り
寄せた最高級の革を用い、一つ一つを
ベルギーとフランスの同社工房で手作り
している。デルヴォーブランドの格式の
高さは、同社がベルギー王室御用達で
ある事実(初用命は1883年)にも表れて
いる。
デルヴォーのデザインはどれも洗
練されているが、象徴的なデザインとい
えばやはり同ブランドお馴染みのブリヨ
ンだ。1958年に発売されたとたん評判
となり、瞬く間に傑作と言われるように
なる。ポール・ゲタルスがデザインしたこ
のバッグは、すっきりしたラインと柔らか
な丸みを帯びた角が特徴で、唯一目を引
く特徴は中央の大きなバックルだけ。そ
れが醸し出す慎ましいエレガンスは、以
来、スタイリッシュな装いの頂点となっ
た。誕生から数十年、ブリヨンはハンド
バッグのデザインに多大な影響を与えて
きた。他のバッグがあの手この手で注意
を引こうとする中、ブリヨンは時代を超え
たスタイルと控えめな贅沢の象徴となっ
ている。
ブリヨンの魅力は絶妙な職人技の
賜物である部分が大きい。熟練職人の
ブリジット・マルクはデルヴォー勤続45
年で、製造過程の複雑さを知り尽くして
いる。「ブリヨンを一つ作るのは5人掛か
りの作業で、革の裁断から最後の仕上
げまでの全工程に8時間から10時間かか
ります。」ブリヨンは同ブランドの他のバ
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グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング
制度をご利用いただきますと、世界各地
の有名ショッピング街にある27万軒を超
える加盟店でのお買い物がお得になり
ます。
年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバ
ル・ブルーの免税ショッピングを、貴方
もぜひご利用ください。手続きは簡単。
まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探しま
す。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グ
ローバル・ブルー?」とお尋ねください。
あとは、次のステップを踏むだけです。
1.お買い物
お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・
ブルーの免税書類(タックスフリー・フォ
ーム)を受け取ってください。レシートを
保管するのも忘れずに。
2.還付請求
ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関でレ
シートに承認印を押してもらってから、
グローバル・ブルーの還付事務所で払い
戻しを受けます。
€125.01以上のお買い物をすれば、購入
価格の最高16%の払い戻しが受けられ
ます。最終的な払い戻し額は、付加価値
税(VAT)合計から事務手数料を差し引
いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承く
ださい。 一部の空港で現金での即時払
い戻しをご希望の場合は、取り扱い手数
料が免税書類ごとに課されます。
66: When You Shop The
World, Shop Tax Free
海外でのお買い物が免税に
ッグが評価される際の基準になるため、
デルヴォーの職人にとってその製造法を
マスターすることはこの上なく重要だ。「
ブリヨンを作れるようになれば、デルヴ
ォーの他のどんなバッグでも作れます」
と、マルクは言い添える。
マルクによれば、ブリヨンの人気が
絶えないのはとてもよく考えられたデザ
インのおかげという。このバッグは64の
革片から成る独特の構造で、そのテンプ
レートは1958年から変わっていない。「
各要素が徹底的に考え抜かれたものだ
から」という。そうしたデザインと職人気
質に支えられ、ブリヨンは耐久性も抜群
だ。このハンドバッグはコレクターズアイ
テムになり、代々受け継がれている。誕
生した瞬間からスタイリッシュ極まる女
性たちが愛してきたブリヨンは、今も人
気が高い。ベルギーのマティルド王妃か
ら、ジャーナリストでスタイリストでもあ
るティアニー・キリロフ、韓国のファッシ
ョンファン、キム・ナヨンまで、現代のフ
ァッション通は誇りをもってブリヨンを
手にしている。
ブリヨンは毎シーズン、新色や新素
材でイメージを新たにしている。古典的
なハンドバッグとはいえ、デルヴォーは革
新で名を成した高級革製品メーカーだ。
同社製品の代表格であるこのバッグに
ついても、歩みを止めることはない。デル
ヴォーはレジュメール・ド・ブリヨン(気
まぐれな輝き)と題したコレクションを
通じて、変わりゆく時代に順応し、創造
性の最先端に留まる力のほどを試してい
る。これは9つの特別限定ブリヨンから
なるシリーズで、ル・レーヴ(夢)、ラ・シ
ンギュラリテ(唯一無二)など各々が別
のコンセプトを体現している。ベルギー人
アーティスト、ルネ・マグリットの絵画『
イメージの裏切り』に発想を得たリュムー
ル(ユーモア)は、流行り廃りのない黒の
ブリヨンに「ceci n’est pas un Delvaux(
これはデルヴォ―じゃない)」という銘を
入れたもの。シュールレアリズム的な気ま
ぐれを芸術的伝統として受け継ぐベルギ
ーならではのこのバッグは、モダニズムと
時代を超えたエレガンスの融合だ。さす
がは世界最古級の高級革製品メーカー。
まさに期待通りといえよう。
delvaux.com
82 | PRODUC TS
Souvenir
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 66
minimalist designs with luxurious
quality. The Dure collection is
crafted from grey marble; its pieces
have leather-covered bases and are
inset with cast bronze rings for a
modern and elegant look. Michaël
Verheyden creations can be found
at the lovely Graanmarkt 13 bou-
tique in Antwerp, which presents
a beautifully curated collection of
male and female fashion, accesso-
ries and homeware. gl
Michaël Verheyden Dure vase,
€1,612, and fruit bowl, €1,768,
Graanmarkt 13, Graanmarkt 13,
2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 337 7992,
michaelverheyden.com
MAJESTIC MINIMALISM
Michaël Verheyden graduated as
an industrial engineer before turn-
ing his hand to accessories and
homeware design. Working with
natural materials selected for their
durability – such as marble, wood,
leather and brass – Verheyden
creates objects with beautifully
simple, clean aesthetics and geo-
metric references. A combination
of high-grade materials and ex-
cellent craftsmanship infuses the
Download the Louis Vuitton pass appto reveal exclusive content.
Sold exclusively in Louis Vuitton storesand on louisvuitton.com. Tel. 02 289 28 28