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Page 1: SHOP Belgium AW14
Page 2: SHOP Belgium AW14
Page 3: SHOP Belgium AW14

www . delvaux . com

Page 4: SHOP Belgium AW14
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De Keyserlei 58/60

2018 Antwerp

Voldersstraat 58

9000 Ghent

Geldmuntstraat 41

8000 Bruges

Grasmarkt 26

1000 Brussels

Page 6: SHOP Belgium AW14

Editor’s Letter

6

Emma Cheevers

/globalblue

/globalblue/globalblue

@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

@GlobalBlue

/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu

Athens and Thessaloniki

Austria

Austrian Alps

Barcelona

Belgium

Berlin

Buenos Aires

Cologne

Copenhagen

Cyprus

Чехия

Düsseldorf

Estonia

Frankfurt

French Riviera

ا ي دليل ألان

德国指南

Руководство Германия

Gothenburg

Hamburg

Hanover

Helsinki Area

Holland

Iceland

Istanbul

Italy

Lake Saimaa

Lebanon

London

Madrid

Milan

Munich

Naples

Nuremburg

Oslo

Paris

Portugal

Prague

Riga

Rimini and Riccione

Rome

Seoul

Singapore

Stockholm

Stuttgart

Switzerland

Tokyo

Vienna

Vilnius

Welcome to Belgium

Let SHOP guide you as you explore Belgium.

Read about Delvaux, the maker of some of the

world’s most sought-after handbags (page 38),

the most appealing neighbourhood cafés (page

44), and much more.

SHOP is part of Global Blue, a Tax Free

Shopping market leader, and publishes guides

to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia.

Our insider knowledge means we are ideally

placed to tell you everything you need to know

about your chosen destination, including the

essential stores, boutiques, restaurants and

places to visit.

For the very latest information, visit

globalblue.com. It’s even easier to claim your

tax savings with the Global Blue Card – sign-

ing up is free and you can fnd all the details

on the website. And don’t forget to download

the Global Blue mobile app!

ILL

US

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ION

: PIN

G Z

HU

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Page 8: SHOP Belgium AW14

Contributors

globalblue.com

8

Clare Coulson

Journalist Clare Coulson is the

former fashion editor of the Daily

Telegraph and former fashion

director of Harper’s Bazaar, for

which she is currently contributing

editor. She also writes for publica-

tions from Net-A-Porter to InStyle.

For this issue, she writes about

Belgium’s cutting-edge designers.

Adam Dhaliwal

Adam Dhaliwal, SHOP’s artwork-

er, is passionate about design and

technology. When he’s not at work

he’s on the lookout for his next

new gadget. Adam is an exercise

enthusiast who enjoys working out,

which helps ofset his love of food.

Matt Murphy

Matt Murphy created this

season’s cover illustration

for SHOP Belgium. He has

previously been commissioned

by The Economist, The Guardian

and The New York Times,

among others. His imaginative,

conceptual artwork makes him

the obvious choice for this cover,

inspired by our feature on page

30 about Belgium’s renown for

pioneering fashion and its new

wave of designers.

Read more about our cover

illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

ILL

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Shop Floor

10

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every

care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after

publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide.

All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue

E DI TOR I A L

Editor-in-chief

Emma Cheevers

Managing editor

Sally McIlhone

Cover illustrator

Matt Murphy

Contributor

Clare Coulson

Production editor

Caterina Mazzolai

Assistant production editor

Ruairidh Pritchard

Features editor

Stephen Doig

City guide and lifestyle editor

Verity Hogan

Fashion and news editor

Dominique Fenn

Assistant fashion and market editor

Ximena Daneri

Assistant fashion and news editors

Hannah Lewis,

Isabella Redmond Styles

Fashion assistant

Gemma Latham

Editorial intern

Sammy Ha

Chief sub-editor

Hester Lacey

Copy editors

Sue Flook, Claire Gervat,

Ann Morphew,

Harriet O’Brien

Picture editor

Dorcas Brown

Assistant picture editors

Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts

Picture assistants

Grace Bird, Mónica Goya

Picture intern

Rubi Ali

Artworker

Adam Dhaliwal

Artworking assistants

Dionne Hélène,

Ai-Lun Huang, Milkha Lala

Artworking intern

Hibba Sayeed

Online editor

Kirsty Welsh

Online editorial assistant

Katie Ramsingh

Online assistants

Marina Nelson,

Emily Scrivener

Commercial editor

Justine Clifton

Commercial artworking

assistant

Aaron Carline

Commercial artworking interns

George Trinick

Ellie Vigors,

Chinese editor

Yuan Fang

Associate Chinese editor

Junjie Dou

Chinese contributing editor

Qingya He

Chinese translators

Xun Ji, Mengjiao Qu, Yin Shi,

Chenguang Yi, Yi Zhang

Chinese interns

Yunhan Fang, Tiantian Liu

Russian editor

Anastasia Nemchenok

Associate Russian editor

Daria Orlova

Assistant Russian editor

Kira Savchenko

Russian editorial assistant

Linda Blank

Russian translators

Teena Garnik,

Gary Ramazanov

Japanese editor

Kyoko Nishimoto

SHOP is published by Global Blue

Group headquarters

Global Blue SA,

Route de Crassier 7,

CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland

Corporate registration number

5565726923

globalblue.com

[email protected]

Digital manager

Eamonn Leacy

Digital production manager

Funmi Paul-Taiwo

Online commercial editor

Sally Ashley-Cound

Project manager

Bina Summan

International digital marketing executive

Nina Kobalia

Digital marketing executive

Wenhan Zhang

Digital production assistant

Paul Lecoanet

Advertising and partnership manager

Riccardo Canini

Distribution and partnership manager

Claudia Suárez

Print

Dane Consultancy

GL OBA L BLU E

BE L GI UM

Country manager

Jorn Hoogesteijn

Marketing manager

Kathy van Haaren

Customer relations

Carla Maes, Ilse Vanachter

Account managers

Jennifer de Vos,

Sophie Herkenne,

Kim Joostens

Global Blue Belgium,

Lambroekstraat 5C,

B-1831 Diegem,

Belgium

PU BL I SH I NG

Publisher

James Morris

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14

Above: Walter Van Beirendonck designs in an exhibition at MoMu fashion museum, Antwerp

Produc ts

16 Check Out

sHoP selects a standout piece

from Belgium this season

18 Products

Key looks for the season,

from fashion and footwear

to jewellery and accessories

N e ws

24 Shop Window

one store not to be missed

in Belgium

26 News

seasonal updates on shops,

services and new products

F e At u r e s

30 Cover Story:

In Its Own Fashion

small as it is, Belgium

conquered the catwalks

of the world in the 1980s,

and it continues to do.

clare coulson fnds out how

38 In Focus: Delvaux’s

Le Brilliant Bag

In 1958 leather-goods house

delvaux created an icon with

Le Brillant. today its design

remains innovative yet classic,

as Hannah Lewis discovers

e x Pe r I e Nce

44 Café Society

Belgium’s best neighbourhood

cafés combine a laid-back

mood with high-quality

cofee, says Verity Hogan

Gu I de

49 Maps and guides to Belgium’s

top shops and destinations

64 My Neighbourhood

Laurent Gerbaud takes

sHoP on a tour of Brussels’

saint-Géry and place sainte-

catherine districts

e sse N t I A L s

66 How To Shop Tax Free

the simple steps to saving

money on your shopping

t r A NsL At IoNs

69 Русский Перевод

74 美文翻译

77 日本語翻訳

sou V e N I r

82 the essential item

to bring home

Contents

p.36

Page 15: SHOP Belgium AW14
Page 16: SHOP Belgium AW14

Check Out

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 66

16 | PRODUC TS

can be worn alone or combined in

a diverse array of scents. In addi-

tion to custom blends, two house

perfumes are also available at

L’Antichambre, alongside candles

and home fragrance. Visit the

in-store laboratory in Brussels to

concoct your own unique perfume

and take home a beautifully pack-

aged and very personal memento

or gift. gl

L’Antichambre Blend

fragrance, from €145 for 50ml,

L’Antichambre,

13 place Georges Brugmann,

1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 343 5513,

l-antichambre.com

CREATIVE SCENTS

L’Antichambre founder Anne

Pascale Mathy-Devalck originally

set out to recreate vintage scents.

However she soon discovered the

joy of creating her own fragrances

and wanted to pass this experience

on to her customers by ofering

personalised perfumes. After seek-

ing expertise from master perfum-

ers in Grasse, Mathy-Devalck has

developed 50 bases from carefully

sourced raw ingredients, and these

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18 | PRODUC TS

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 66

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3. Caroline Biss necklace, €70, Caroline Biss, 21-21A avenue Louise, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 538 5038, carolinebiss.com

4. Lee Cooper jeans, €89.95, Lynel, 98 chaussée d’Ixelles, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 511 1304, leecooper.com

1. Pinko boots, €478, Pinko, Hiudevettersstraat 42A, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 231 0006, pinko.it

2. La Pomme de Loveley handbag,

€465, Gauquie, Leopoldstraat 10, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 232 1775, lapommedeloveley.com

TACTILE TREATS

Add texture to otherwise simple silhouettes to make a style statement this season

1

2

4

3

Page 19: SHOP Belgium AW14

globalblue.com

5. O’Neill hat, €19.95, O’Neill, Stadsfeestzaal, Meir 78, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 232 7861, oneill.com

6. Eric Bompard coat, €750, Eric Bompard, 57 boulevard de Waterloo, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 513 5623, eric-bompard.com

7. Roeckl leather gloves, €459, Vincent, Galerie Agora, 33 rue des Eperonniers, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)3 511 5498, roeckl.de

SHOP | 19

6

5 7

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20 | PRODUC TS

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 66

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EYE-CATCHING EFFECT

Turn heads at the airport with this cool and quirky ensemble

1

2

3

4

1. Rimowa Bolero trolley, from €369, Rimowa, Leopoldstraat 6, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 234 3220, rimowa.de

2. Persol eyewear, €207, Meeussen Galerie Optiek, Nieuwe Gaanderij 38-39, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 232 4837, persol.com

3. Replay sweater, €139, Replay, 33 rue Antoine Dansaert, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 513 2430, replay.it

4. Gaastra jeans, €119.95, Gaastra, Schoenmarkt 6, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 707 0372, gaastra.eu

Page 21: SHOP Belgium AW14

Appelmansstraat 25 box 23-26, 2018 Antwerp Belgium

tel: +32 (0)3 226 11 91 | fax: +32 (0)3 226 21 57 | e-mail: [email protected]

The Lotus Collection

D-Brilliant Cuts™ invented by master Polisher

Hedwig Smets

and is a registered Trademark owned by

Dayekh Gems™ bvba

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Shop Window

24 | N E WS

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 66

literally highlights the balance be-

tween art and matter. Replay is a

thoroughly modern brand taking

a contemporary approach to its

business, and this store is a great

refection of the way the company

ofsets innovation with respect

for tradition and for the environ-

ment. Cleverly, these themes are

realised without overshadowing

the clothes which are, as always, of

the utmost quality. hl

Replay, Meir 27, 2000 Antwerp,

+32 (0)3 204 0177, replay.it

* for map go to page 57

REPLAY REIMAGINED

Italian denim expert Replay con-

tinues the development of its retail

vision with a concept store in the

Meir district of Antwerp. The look

takes inspiration from Replay’s

commitment to eco-sustainability

and has a natural, rustic aesthetic.

The store has been designed with

rough materials and a tin ceiling,

and its carefully devised lighting

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P H OTO G R A P H E D

AT YA L E

Cross Campus

gant.com

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26 | N E WS

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 66

PERFECT SETTINGS

Hailed as the frst multi-brand

Belgian designer store in Brus-

sels when it opened in 1984, Stijl is

something of an institution among

the city’s most fashionable resi-

dents. The boutique has one store

for men and one for women, and

owner Sonja Noël has ensured that

the stores ofer a unique experi-

ence. In the menswear store, each

designer’s work is presented in a

space that perfectly refects the col-

lection, be it one of Belgium’s most

famous fashion talents or a promis-

ing young designer. irs

Stijl Men, 6 place du

Nouveau Marché aux Grains,

1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 513 4250,

stijl.be

* for map go to page 52

HAY HAS IT ALL

Danish interiors brand Hay cel-

ebrates the frst anniversary of its

Antwerp store this autumn. Bring-

ing Scandinavian style to Belgium,

the brand is dedicated to inno-

vative design, sustainability and

quality. In addition to its furniture

collections, a range of homeware is

available including rugs, cushions,

quilts and accessories. With a mis-

sion to produce the perfect prod-

ucts for modern living, Hay has all

you need to make your home both

beautiful and functional. gl

Hay,

Ijzerenwaag 12a,

2000 Antwerp,

+32 (0)3 344 9501,

hayantwerpen.com

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globalblue.com

SHOP | 27

SHOP THE WORLD

Using our wealth of insider knowledge, we

have created a smartphone app to help you

to plan your trip. The app gives information

on 45 cities in 22 countries – thousands

of stores are listed and located on maps,

with full contact details and a descrip-

tion of what each store sells. Our maps

guide you right to the store and can also

be downloaded for offine use enabling

you to create your own itinerary. You can

also sign up for the Global Blue Card and,

once you’re logged in the My Tax Refund

wallet becomes available, allowing you to

track pending refunds. The app is avail-

able in Chinese, English and Russian, and

includes a Tax Refund Calculator to tell you

how much you’ll save on every purchase

you make in every different country you

visit. There are also instructions on how

to use Currency Choice, our service that

allows you to pay in your home currency.

globalblue.com

Download the Global Blue guide

from the App Store or Play Store

CLEVER COMBINATION

Newly launched jewellery

brand Uribe is the creation of

husband-and-wife team Sion

and Tifany Phillips. Tifany’s

background in accessories design

for the likes of Chanel and Kenzo

coupled with Sion’s graphic de-

sign and branding expertise make

a powerful combination. In-

spired by their respective Welsh

and Chilean-American heritage,

the duo has created a distinctive

debut collection of bold and beau-

tiful pieces. gl

Hunting and Collecting,

17 rue des Chartreux,

1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 512 7477,

studiouribe.co.uk

* for map go to page 52

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28 | N E WS

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 66

BEST OF THE VESTS

Five years ago a group of young

Belgians wanted to start a new ven-

ture based on complete dedication

to quality, and they decided to make

the most fabulous marcels (vests)

in Brussels. Initially ofering only

this one item, and doing it incred-

ibly well, Le Fabuleux Marcel was

a quick success. Although the range

has now expanded to a far wider

choice of apparel, the brand’s initial

commitment to excellent designs

made with love remains. It is now

at a shiny new location on rue Léon

Lepage. You’d be hard pressed to

fnd better basics. hl

CHIC KIDS

Founded in 2006 by two young

mothers seeking chic yet comfy

clothing for children, CdeC has

opened a second store in Brussels.

CdeC’s well-crafted childrenswear

has a playful aesthetic and is de-

signed by the eponymous founder

Cordelia de Castellane and her

cousin, Ségolène Gallienne. The

new store is a charming space dec-

orated in crisp white with wooden

accents and is a lovely place for

parents and children alike. hl

CdeC,

1384 chaussée de Waterloo,

1180 Brussels,

+32 (0)2 375 2745,

cdec.fr

Le Fabuleux Marcel,

10 rue Léon Lepage,

1000 Brussels,

+32 (0)2 201 0361,

fabuleuxmarcel.com

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77

fashion

How did Belgium, small as it is, conquer the catwalks of the world? Clare Coulson fnds out In

/69 74

Page 31: SHOP Belgium AW14

ownitsIn the late 1980s a group of six

Belgian designers erupted on

to  the fashion scene, and their

story has since become legendary.

Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van

Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck,

Dirk Bikkembergs, Dirk van

Saene and Marina Yee had stud-

ied together at the Koninklijke

Academie voor Schone KunstenPH

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Above: the antwerp Six, from lef to right, Marina yee, Dries Van noten, ann Demeulemeester, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk van Saene

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32 | FEATURES

Above (clock wise from lef): Ann Demeulemeester; Dirk Bikkembergs; Dries Van Noten, all autumn/winter 2014/15

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Antwerpen (Royal Academy

of Fine Arts in Antwerp) and were

to become known as the Antwerp

Six. It was their trip to London

Fashion Week in 1988 that put

them on the map. As none of the

designers had enough money

to travel individually to show their

collections, they clubbed together

and drove a van full of clothes to

London. There they made a big im-

pression, with Barneys New York

the frst store to place an order.

Some, most notably Dries Van

Noten and Ann Demeulemeester,

would go on to build up incredibly

successful and infuential global

businesses (though Demeule-

meester stepped away from hers

in November 2013). Others such

as Walter Van Beirendonck would

also go into teaching. But no mat-

ter what the future would bring,

at that moment the six designers

were a force for change in fashion,

not only in terms of the shift in taste

that they would kick start but also

as an inspiration to a new genera-

tion of Belgian designers.

The Antwerp

Six emerged just

as fashion was

undergoing a

seismic shift

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SHOP | 33

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Timing was everything. The

Antwerp Six emerged just as fash-

ion was undergoing a seismic shift.

Global brands had been develop-

ing on diferent continents (Ar-

mani and Versace in Italy, and

Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein

in America) and although entirely

diferent they all ofered a very

commercial take on womenswear.

In total contrast, a new avant-

garde fashion was emerging. Japa-

nese designers, including Yohji

Yamamoto and Comme des Gar-

çon’s Rei Kawakubo, had burst

on to the scene a few years before

and with them an entirely new aes-

thetic was born. It was challenging

and cerebral. It was unlike any-

thing else fashion had seen before.

So in many ways the scene was

already set for the Belgians, whose

cool and avant-garde aesthetic ex-

cited a new generation of women

wanting clothes that chimed with

the times.

Although the six would

go on to show predominantly

in Paris, and although they were

grouped together aesthetically, they

were very diferent. The rich sensi-

bilities of Dries Van Noten, for ex-

ample, are entirely distinct from

Demeulemeester’s dark, rock-in-

fected androgyny. Yet despite this

there is something that unites them,

as well as the Belgian designers

who have followed in their wake.

Page 34: SHOP Belgium AW14

34 | FEATURES

Above (clockwise from lef): Walter Van Beirendonck autumn/winter 2014/15; the designer himself; Walter Van Beirendonck autumn/winter 2014/15

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The Belgian aesthetic was,

and is, emotional, individual and

about real women rather than

extreme ideas of femininity. Col-

lections evolve organically rather

than lurching from trend to trend

each season. As Demeulemeester

explained before she left her

namesake label, ‘Every collec-

tion is a new step and every step

is impotant. I’m never in a hurry.

If I want to do something new

I want to do it well.’

The Antwerp Six were in many

ways ahead of their time and im-

mensely prescient, given the emo-

tion-led world that we live in today.

For Demeulemeester the common

thread can be traced to the fact that

before the Antwerp Six emerged

the country had no particular look.

Collections evolve

organically rather

than lurching from

trend to trend

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36 | FEATURES

Above (from top lef): Dirk Bikkembergs autumn/winter 2014/15; Walter Van Beirendonck designs at the Stephen Jones and the Accent of Fashion exhibition held at the MoMu fashion museum in Antwerp from 8 September 2010 to 13 February 2011

Younger stars such

as Niels Peeraer

are spearheading

another new wave

of Belgian design

‘In Belgium we don’t have a huge

fashion heritage like Paris or Mi-

lan. I always felt I had to start from

zero so I could create something

of my own,’ muses the designer.

‘But it brought a sense of responsi-

bility. I had to do something really

good. So maybe this is an ambition

that Belgians have.’

Their ascendance certainly

put the Koninklijke Academie

voor Schone Kunsten Antwerpen

on the map. The fashion school

from which the six graduated

had previously taught mostly Bel-

gian students. But the emergence

of these designers confrmed its

status as one of the best fashion

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SHOP | 37

Above (this page): ceramic vessel by Dirk van Saene for Delvaux

schools in the world and gradually

it attracted students globally. And,

of course, it gave Belgium’s own

home-grown talent more traction.

Designers such as Olivier

Theyskens, Haider Ackermann

and Raf Simons have gone

on to have huge international suc-

cess, albeit in very diferent ways.

Other younger stars such as Niels

Peeraer are spearheading another

new wave of Belgian design. Al-

though distinctly diferent, they

have all learned lessons from those

six designers who emerged almost

30 years ago. They have established

their own separate styles, and fash-

ion is much the richer for it

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/

38 | F E AT U R E S

71

79

75

In 1958 leather goods house Delvaux created an icon with Le Brillant.

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IN FOCUS:

Delvaux’s Le

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SHOP | 39

Above (from lef): Delvaux La Singularité bag; La Création bag, both Les Humeurs de Brillant collection

Today its design remains innovative yet classic, as Hannah Lewis discovers

Brillant Bag

Page 40: SHOP Belgium AW14

40 | F E AT U R E S

Above: Tiany Kirilof with Delvaux’s L’Humour from Les Humeurs de Brillant collection

Delvaux regards the handbag almost as a form of sculpture

For most women today, life with-

out a handbag is unthinkable. Yet

before the development of rail

travel, the need for handbags was

far from commonplace. In the 19th

century, trunk maker Charles Del-

vaux realised how the rail revolu-

tion would impact on women and

how, now able to travel, they would

want to keep personal items close

to hand. So his family frm cre-

ated bags for this purpose, and in

1908 the company became one of

the frst in history to fle patents for

handbag designs.

Founded in 1829 in Brussels,

Delvaux is one of the oldest luxury

to produce collections in line with

haute-couture seasons, Delvaux is

an industry game changer.

The house of Delvaux has cre-

ated more than 3,000 handbag de-

signs in its 185 years, each pains-

takingly developed. The brand

regards the handbag as almost a

form of sculpture and favours

structural shapes for which appar-

ent simplicity depends on intricate

craftsmanship. The fnest hides

from France and Italy are used,

and each Delvaux product is craft-

ed by hand in one of the brand’s

workshops in Belgium and France.

That Delvaux is a brand of excep-

leather-goods houses in the world.

In fact it predates the birth of Bel-

gium itself, which was declared

independent from the Netherlands

in 1830. The house has built up an

exceptional reputation across the

world. Admired for its ability to be

innovative while also maintaining

tradition and a core commitment

to quality, Delvaux has been at the

forefront of many developments

in luxury goods. From embracing

the increased demand for ultra-

luxurious handbags to being the

frst luxury leather-goods brand

PH

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Page 41: SHOP Belgium AW14

FNAC

ANTWERPEN

Groenplaats

FNAC

BRUGGE

Markt 18-19

FNAC

BRUSSELS

City 2Toison d’Or

FNAC

GENT

Veldstraat 88

FNAC

LEUVEN

Vital Decosterstr. 7

FNAC

LIEGE

Rue Joffre 3

FNAC

LLN

Centre commercial L’esplanade

FNAC

WIJNEGEM

Shopping Center

Fnac9 outlets in Belgium

BOOKS I CD I COMPUTER I DVD I GAMES

HI-FI I HOME & DESIGN I KIDS

PHOTOGRAPHY I TICKETING I TV

Page 42: SHOP Belgium AW14

42 | FEATURES

Above (clockwise from lef): Le Brillant bag in alligator skin; Jackie Kennedy with her Le Brillant bag, 1960s; Delvaux leather stamp

t i o n a l

prestige is refected in the fact that

it is a royal warrant holder to the

court of Belgium, an honour it was

frst accorded in 1883.

Every Delvaux design is ac-

complished. But Le Brillant, the

for 45 years and knows full well

how intricate the process is. ‘Five

people take part in the creation of

one Le Brillant,’ she explains. ‘The

entire process, from cutting the

leather to the fnal touches, takes

between eight and 10 hours.’ For

an artisan at Delvaux, Le Brillant

is the most important piece to mas-

ter because it sets the standard by

which the brand’s other bags are

judged. ‘When a craftsperson is

able to make a Le Brillant, he or

she can create any other bag of the

Delvaux house,’ Marcq adds.

According to Marcq, the con-

tinuing success of Le Brillant is

down to its very carefully consid-

ered design. The bag has a unique

structure of 64 pieces of leather

and its template has not changed

brand’s signature bag, is iconic.

It was launched in 1958 to imme-

diate acclaim and quickly became

a showpiece item. Created by de-

signer Paule Goethals, Le Brillant

has clean lines and soft, rounded

edges. Its large central buckle is its

only attention-seeking feature, and

it exudes the sort of understated

elegance that has since become the

zenith of stylish dressing. In the

decades since its creation it has had

an enormous infuence on handbag

design. Yet where other bags might

shout for attention, Le Brillant is

the epitome of timeless style and

discreet luxury.

Much of the appeal of Le Bril-

lant lies in exquisite craftsman-

ship. Master craftswoman Brigitte

Marcq has worked for Delvaux

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Page 43: SHOP Belgium AW14

SHOP | 43

The luxury leather house has made a name for itself with innovation

Tiany Kirilof to Korean fashion

lover Kim Na Young, those in the

know today carry their Le Brillant

with pride.

Le Brillant is reimagined each

season in new colours and materi-

als. This may be a classic handbag,

but the luxury leather house made

a name for itself with innovation,

and even with its signature piece

Delvaux has never stood still.

Through the collection Les Hu-

since 1958 because, she says, ‘each

element was perfectly thought out’.

Thanks to the design and work-

manship every bag has impressive

longevity, too. A Le Brillant hand-

bag becomes a collector’s piece and

is passed down through the gen-

erations. From the very start it was

loved by the most stylish of women

and it is still just as sought-after

today. From Queen Mathilde of

Belgium and journalist and stylist

meurs de Brillant (The Moods of

Brillant), the brand explores its

ability to adapt to changing times

and stay at the forefront of creativ-

ity. This is a series of nine special-

edition Le Brillant handbags, each

one embodying a diferent con-

cept, from Le Rêve (The Dream)

to La Singularité (The Singulari-

ty). Inspired by Belgian artist René

Magritte’s painting The Treachery

of Images, L’Humour is a classic

black Le Brillant inscribed with the

legend ‘ceci n’est pas un Delvaux’

(‘this is not a Delvaux’). Embrac-

ing the Belgian artistic heritage of

surrealist whimsy, this is a bag that

fuses modernism with a sense of

timeless elegance. From one of the

world’s oldest luxury leather-goods

houses we’d expect nothing less

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Page 44: SHOP Belgium AW14

globalblue.com

44 | E X PE R I E NCE

Café SoCietyBelgium’s most popular cafés combine

a laidback mood with high-quality cofee and talented baristas. Verity Hogan relaxes

at a selection of the country’s fnest

Belgians are among the world’s

most discerning cofee drinkers,

and cofee beans are now among

the country’s highest imports. The

current trend, both in cafés and at

home, is for premium cofee with

superior favours that provide a

gourmet experience. The way cof-

fee is presented in many cafés is

also distinctive: don’t be surprised

to fnd a chocolate trufe served

alongside your espresso.

Belgium’s neighbourhood cafés are

havens of both peace and activity,

depending on whether you want to

catch up with work on a laptop, re-

lax with a book, or debate politics.

This versatility appeals to both

locals and visitors alike, attracting

artists, intellectuals and students.

Cafés are also typically trend-con-

scious venues where the interior

design tends to be as intriguing as

the diverse clientele.

Page 45: SHOP Belgium AW14

SHOP | 45

O R E S P R E S S O B a R

a micro cofee roaster as well as

a popular café, Or Espresso Bar

attracts true cofee enthusiasts.

Its expert baristas are passionate

about producing the perfect cap-

puccino or espresso, and the café’s

owners travel the world to source

the fnest beans available. The

café’s use of high-quality beans is

combined with brewing methods

that have been specially tailored to

each blend, ensuring consistently

delicious results. Freshness is

guaranteed as is the knowledge of

the team of baristas. The industrial

styling is also worthy of note.

Or Espresso Bar,

13a place Jourdan,

1040 Brussels,

+32 (0)2 230 9299,

orcoffee.be

Page 46: SHOP Belgium AW14

globalblue.com

46 | E X PE R I E NCE

B R a z I l a

Brazila has been roasting high-

quality cofee beans in Belgium

since 1930 and its cofee shops

are instantly appealing thanks to

their rich aromas. Visitors to the

company’s Bruges branch can

watch beans being freshly ground

before choosing a seat on the ter-

race or in the cosy interior. Expect

a varied menu of cofees, teas and

speciality beverages along with a

range of pre-packaged ground cof-

fee to take home.

Brazila, Mallebergplaats 1,

8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 330929,

brazila-brugge.be

N o R M o C o f f E E

Normo is one of antwerp’s most

popular hangouts, providing a

home-away-from-home for cofee

enthusiasts and art students alike.

Set close to the Koninklijke acade-

mie voor Schone Kunsten antwer-

pen (Royal academy of fine arts

in antwerp), it attracts an artistic

clientele who help infuse the café

with a bohemian spirit. The artis-

tic mood is refected in the décor,

which is minimalist and industrial

in tone. The café roasts its own

beans on site and its large roasting

machines add to the striking qual-

ity of the décor.

Normo Cofee,

Minderbroedersrui 30,

2000 antwerp,

+32 (0)495 657243,

normocoffee.beT

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Page 47: SHOP Belgium AW14
Page 48: SHOP Belgium AW14

Photographed in La Roca Village. A member of the Chic Outlet Shopping® Collection of Villages.

© Maasmechelen Village 2014 *on the recommended retail price

The world’s greatest designer boutiques.

With savings of 30% to 60%* and tax-free shopping.

Receive 50% off your Shopping Express® return ticket from Brussels

by booking online with the code ‘GLOBALBLUE’.

CALVIN KLEIN JEANS CLARKS ESCADA FURLA GUESS HUGO BOSS KIPLING

LACOSTE LAUREL LIU JO SAMSONITE SUPERDRY SWAROVSKI

TED BAKER TOMMY HILFIGER UGG AUSTRALIA VERSACE AND MANY MORE

LIKE SHOPPING. BUT BETTER.

MaasmechelenVillage.com

EUROPE LONDON DUBLIN PARIS MADRID BARCELONA MILAN BRUSSELS

FRANKFURT MUNICH CHINA SUZHOU SHANGHAI (OPENING AUTUMN 2015)

Page 49: SHOP Belgium AW14

Guide

GU I DE | 49

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Belgium, with a look at the country’s must-visit destinations, from the most luxurious jewellers to the coolest concept stores. Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/belgium.

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Above: the impressive courtyard of Bruges’s gruuthuse, a 15th-century mansion in the shadow of Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk (the Church of Our Lady)

A GlImPSE OF BrUGES

Page 50: SHOP Belgium AW14

Xxxxxxxxxx

50 | GU I DE

TROONPLEIN

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TOWN HALL

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GALERIES ROYALES ST. HUBERT

THE CATHEDRAL OF

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FOR COMIC STRIP ART

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GRAND SABLON

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OF BRUSSELS

ROYAL PALACE

Place DesPalais

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LAW COURTS OF BRUSSELS

LA MONNAIE THEATRE

DELIRIUM TREMENS

Hotel Metropole

CENTRAL STATION

Train Station Tourist Information

Restaurant

Brussels

page

51

page

53

page

54

page

52

Place Of Interest

Hotel

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SHOP | 51

RU

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● FNAC

EASY-M●

VERITAS●

CELIOH&M●

SACHA●

CAMAIEUTAMARIS

● COOL CAT

● GALERIA INNO

MEDIA MARKT

● THE BODY SHOP

●●

MAC●

MORGAN

PIMKIE● ERAM

MANGO● HUNKEMOLLER

● SWAROVSKI

● ETAM LINGERIE

NEW LOOK●

PROMOD

ICI PARIS XL●

FOOT LOCKER

C&A● H&M

● HEMA

● BENETTON

CHAMPS ELYSÉES

TIME SQUARE

YVES● ROCHER

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ALFREDO

DIFFUSION ●

TARACCI ●

DEAN ●

TRISTYL ●

JULES ●MANGO ●

LEONIDAS ●ERAM ●

OKAÏDI ●DIESEL ●

NEW LOOK ●

SALAMANDER ●

CLAIRE'S ●

BASE SHOP ●GEOX ●

GALLERY ●MANO ●

SHOE DISCOUNT ●LEVI'S ●KEN ●

SCORE ●DONA ●

PULL & BEAR ●

DU PAREIL

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CASSIS/PAPRIKA ●

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CAMAIEU ●JULES ●

MEXX ●

INTIMISSIMI ●MACH 3 ●

AMERICA TODAY ●

BERSHKA ●KEN ●

NAF NAF ●

MAROQUINERIE

FABIOLA ●ESPRIT ●

CELIO CLUB ●ZARA ●

PEARLE OPTICIEN ●CELIO ●

ERAM ●

SPRINGFIELD ●

JENNYFER ●

WOMEN’SECRET ●

DAVIDOFF ●

City 2 Shopping Center

LEONIDAS SHOP ●

Rue Neuve

Shopping CentreNon-Global Blue Retailer

1. Wouters & Hendrix

Design duo Katrin Wouters and Karen

Hendrix are known for producing a range

of emotive yet timeless jewellery.

Wouters & Hendrix, 16 place Georges Brugmann, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 345 0285, wouters-hendrix.com

2. Tiffany & Co

Known for sourcing the world’s most

beautiful diamonds to produce its

signature range of engagement rings,

Tiffany enjoys a romantic reputation

that is internationally renowned.

Tiffany & Co, 60 boulevard de Waterloo, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 501 6633,tiffany.com * for map go to page 53

3. Bulgari

Founded in 1884, Bulgari has become

synonymous with Italian glamour,

offering a luxurious jewellery collection

complemented by a range of watches,

leather goods and accessories.

Bulgari, 36 boulevard de Waterloo, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 511 6701, bulgari.com

* for map go to page 53

1

Global Blue Retailer

BrusseLs’ BesT

jeWeLLery BouTiques

Page 52: SHOP Belgium AW14

52 | GUIDE

Rue Antoine Dansaert

RUE DU PÉNE

KOGELSTRAAT

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PL. SAINT-GÉRY

RU

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Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue

1. Café Costume

During an appointment-only consultation

at Café Costume, the store’s tailors dem-

onstrate their commitment to traditional

craftsmanship and high quality fabrics.

Café Costume, 24 rue Léon Lepage, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 513 5444, cafecostume.com

2. NDC Made by Hand

NDC Made by Hand’s footwear combines

the finest Tuscan leather with talented

craftsmen to produce timeless styles.

NDC Made by Hand, 36 rue Léon Lepage, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 808 3831, ndcmadebyhand.com

3. Stijl

Stijl is something of a landmark in

Belgium’s fashion landscape, known for

stocking both high-end Belgian designer

labels and emerging talents. The store

now offers pieces by Dries Van Noten, Ann

Demeulemeester and Raf Simons, as well

as providing a platform for local up-and-

coming designers.

Stijl, 74 rue Antoine Dansaert, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 512 0313, stijl.be

Top SToreS

2

P.27

P.26

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SHOP | 53

Boulevard de Waterloo &

Avenue de la Toison d’Or

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globalblue.com

Neuhaus

Established in 1857 and credited with the

invention of the praline, Neuhaus has an

illustrious heritage. The company’s warmly

decorated boutiques provide an ideal set-

ting for the brand’s high quality range.

Neuhaus, 20 avenue de la Toison d’Or, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 513 1547,neuhaus-online-store.com

pierre Marcolini

Pierre Marcolini is known for his unique

flavour blends. Expect flavour options to

include pepper, chestnut and patchouli.

Pierre Marcolini, 75 avenue Louise, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 538 4224, marcolini.be * for map go to page 54

Wittamer

Wittamer’s range includes handmade

chocolates, macaroons and pastries.

Wittamer, 6-13 place du Grand Sablon, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 512 3742, wittamer.com

beST CHoColaTe SHopS

P.51

P.51

Page 54: SHOP Belgium AW14

54 | GUIDE

Avenue Louise

RUE D

E BURGER

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Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue

P.53

Page 55: SHOP Belgium AW14

SHOP | 55

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Page 56: SHOP Belgium AW14

56 | GUIDE

Lombardevest

Komedieplaats & Korte Gasthuisstraat

Kammenstraat

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Place Of InterestGlobal Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

Page 57: SHOP Belgium AW14

SHOP | 57

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STADSFEESTZAAL:

COS

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ICI PARIS XL

JUST A SHOE

LLOYD SHOES

MEN AT WORK

SACHA

TOMMY HILFIGER

Department Store Shopping Centre/Mall

1. Rosier 41

The eclectic mix of labels stocked at

Rosier 41 includes both Belgian and

international designers.

Rosier 41, Rosier 41, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 225 5303, rosier41.be

2. Your

Your boutique prides itself on originality

and stocks a range of fashion, accessories,

books, cosmetics and gadgets from a mix

of high-end labels and little-known brands.

Your, Kloosterstraat 90, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 337 7110, your-antwerp.com

3. Magazyn

Magazyn’s carefully curated interior fur-

nishings reflect its owner’s strictly defined

aesthetic. The majority of items are made

by hand using natural fabrics and a neutral

colour palette, with options ranging from

office equipment to large furniture.

Magazyn, Steenhouwersvest 34A, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 226 6606, magazyn.be

AntweRp’s coolest

concept stoRes

3

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Featured In This Issue

Page 58: SHOP Belgium AW14

58 | GUIDE

Vestingstraat Pelikaanstraat

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Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

Page 59: SHOP Belgium AW14
Page 60: SHOP Belgium AW14

60 | GUIDE

NO

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The Pand Hotel

Bruges

Tourist Information HotelPlace Of Interest

PAGE

61

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PAGE

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SHOP | 61

Old Town

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● VENISE

● ROSALINE

● MAISON PICKERY

● KERSTBRUGGE

● DELVAUX

● NATURA● ROCOCO

● CHOCOLATIER VAN OOST ● THE BOTTLE SHOP

● KLEDING DE KAT ● BUBBLES AT HOME

● POINT DE ROSE ● CHOCOHOLIC

● NICKY M

● GALANTE

● CKS

L'ANGOLO ● HERENMODE

● DE 5 ZINTUIGEN

KANTENPARADIJS ●

JOSIANE ANSAELENS ●

● NICO TAEYMANS

● URSUS BRUGGHIAE

THEO ●BITTE KAI RAND ●

MC GREGOR ●JOAQUIM JOFRE ●

PICKERY ●CADEAUX MARGAUX ●

HET BRUGSCH THEEHUIS ●CHOCOLATE HAPPINESS ●

FLANDERS LACE ●MILLE FLEURS ●

AU POINT DE BRUGES ●CHOCOHOLIC ●

● ILSE DE CORTE

FILOU & FRIENDS ●

NICKY M ACCESSOIRES ●

DUE COLLECTION ●PEARLE ●

FNAC ●

● COTÉNOIR

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Pergola Kaffee

Non-Global Blue Retailer CaféGlobal Blue Retailer

Above: Choco-Story

1. Enjoy epicurean delights

Discover the history of Belgium’s most

famous gastronomic specialities by touring

the Frietmuseum and Choco-Story. Visitors

to the Frietmuseum can try a plate of chips

in the basement café while Choco-Story

offers a selection of recipes that are sure

to inspire you to create your own pralines

at home.

Frietmuseum, Vlamingstraat 33, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 340150, frietmuseum.be

Choco-Story, Wijnzakstraat 2, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 612237, choco-story.be

2. Visit the Belfort

Climb the 366 steps of the Belfort tower

to be rewarded with panoramic views of

the city.

Bruges Belfort, Markt 7, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 448711, brugge.be/musea

3. Take a canal ride

Gain a striking perspective on Bruges’s

historic sights by taking a 30-minute trip

around the city’s famed canals.

ToP ThinGS To

do in BruGES

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62 | GUIDE

Steenstraat & Noordzandstraat

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● GAASTRATHE UNIQUE CHOCOLATE

● EXPERIENCE● FOOT LOCKER

● MOVE ON● GALERIA INNO● MEXX

● CAMAIEU● ZARA● C&A● GEOX● YVES ROCHER

● OKAÏDI● NOTEBOOM● CHOCOLATERIE ROOSE

● ICI PARIS XL● WE WOM● ENCASSIS● ESPRIT

● RUBICA● GILSON● LACE GALLERY

● CROCS● VENIZI● NEW LOOK● HEMA● ONE STEP

LOLA & LIZA ●SCORE ●SPRINGFIELD ●

SIX ●

MAGASIN JULES ●H&M ●FORMEN ●BASE SHOP ●GIRALDO ●BOCAGE ●ZARA ●PIECES ●

VERO MODA / JACK & JONES ●

VIVA BRUGGE ●LEONIDAS ●ETAM LINGERIE ●

AVANCE ●TIME SQUARE ●DIDI ●

TOMMY HILFIGER ●TALKING FRENCH ●

BONBON-VERHEECKE ●SWAROVSKI ●

PARIS-LONDRES ●L'OCCITANE ●

HUNKEMÖLLER ●RIVER WOODS ●CELIO ●WE MEN ●

UN JOUR AILLEURS ●PICKWICK ●PIMKIE ●MORGAN ● 123 ●NEUHAUS ●

● PICCO BELLO

● NOBODY● SCOTCH 'RBELLE● GERRY WEBER● MCGREGOR

● TOPOLINO● FORMEN● 7 CAMICIE● ESSENZA

● CAROLL● STATE OF ART● MISS SIXTY● MC GREGOR

MEPHISTO ●MAYERLINE ●

● VAN DALEN

● NOUKIES

ICI PARIS XL ●

DDP PARIS ●

VIA GUILA ●BJÖRN BORG ●L'HEROÏNE ●WOLFORD ●

G-STAR ●FANINI ●GÖSTAR ●

SARAH PACINI ●BROOKLYN ●

BELGACOM CENTER ●DIEPHUIS

LEDERWAREN ●

● SCAPA● PANDORA● KIPLING● LIU JO● JACK WOLFSKIN

● DANNEELS

● CAROLINE BISS● PETIT BATEAU

● EDISAC● PARIS-LONDRES

● PARALLAX● DE ARK VAN ZARREN

● QUIKE VITAL● IKKS● ZARA HOME

● STREET ONE● SAXON● SUPERDRY

● THE CHOCOLATE LIN

E

● D

ILLE &

KAMIL

LE

● R

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● L

ACE PARADISE

GALERIJ KOEN BROES

● S

TEPHAN DUMON

● MISS MOGGY

● MOGGY’S

● BBYB SHOP

● ROUGEGORGE

MAX MARA ●

GEERT POLLENTIER ●

● M

ANGO

CINQUE ●

DOMIQUE MEIR●

TENDRESSE ●

LUC DUCHENE ●REX ●HANS ANDERS ●VERITAS ●

Markt● RUE NORD

● MELVIN

● DE MOL FASHION

● NR 4377

MASSIMO DUTTI ●

ZARA KIDS ●

THE BODY SHOP ●ERAM ●

PEIRSEGAELE ●

MARLBORO CLASSICS ●

GÉRARD DAREL ●

KNAPP TARGA ●

VAN BOMMEL ●

KNAPP TARGA ●

MER DU NORD ●

PEAK PERFORMANCE ●

TWICE AS NICE ●SACHA ●

PAPRIKA ●

TOM TAILOR ●

EDC BY ESPRIT ●

WOMEN'SECRET ●H&M ●

OPTIEK DELBECQUE ●RITUALS ●

MOGGY'S ●

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

The best way to explore Bruges is by bike,

as the city is ideally suited to two-wheeled

travel. Attractions further afield are also

easily reached by bicycle and the medieval

village of Damme is an ideal day-trip

destination. The village is less than five

miles from Bruges, via a cycle path that

runs alongside a picturesque, tree-lined

canal. Pack a picnic to make a day of it.

TOP TIP

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GU I DE | 63

Maasmechelen Village

How to GEt tHEREBy car

Leave the E314 at exit

33 and follow the signs

for Leisure Valley. At the

roundabout follow the

signed access road to Leisure

Valley and Maasmechelen

Village. the journey from

Antwerp and Brussels takes

about an hour.

By train

there is a regular

SNCB train service to

Ghent station, which is

20 minutes by taxi from

Maasmechelen Village.

By bus

De Lijn runs regular hourly

bus services (no 45) from

Ghent and Hasselt train

stations. the journey takes

an hour.

By Shopping Express®

A direct luxury coach

service runs daily from

rue du Marché aux

Herbes in Brussels to

Maasmechelen Village.

5pm

Sarah Pacini produces

feminine, timeless and

elegant collections made

from the fnest fabrics.

Maasmechelen Village,

Zetellaan 100,

3630 Maasmechelen,

+32 (0)89 774000,

maasmechelenvillage.com

Opening times

Monday-Friday: 10am-6pm

Saturday-Sunday:

10am-7pm

10am

Admire the theatrical

collections on ofer at Stijn

Helsen’s artistic store.

2pm

Emulate Californian chic

with a visit to Michael Kors’

glamourous boutique.

PERFECt DAY

Page 64: SHOP Belgium AW14

64 |

Above: clam dish at Mer du Nord seafood stall

MY NEIGHBOURHOOD:

LAURENT GERBAUD

‘My favourite area of Brussels

is the central district of Saint-

Géry and place Sainte-Cathe-

rine. Here, it’s easy to do every-

thing on foot and I always bump

into a lot of friends en route.

‘Rue Dansaert is often rec-

ommended for its designer

shopping, but it is also home to

some of the best pubs in Brus-

sels. Place du Jardin aux Fleurs,

at the end of rue des Chartreux,

has some of my favourite neigh-

bourhood pubs and restaurants,

too. There are also several Bel-

gian designers there and it is

away from the frenzy of the city

centre. Au Daringman in rue

de Flandre is one of my favou-

rite secrets as it’s a real local

Flemish pub. Recently I’ve also

been spending time at Le Bar

des Amis on rue Sainte-Cath-

erine, which is a spacious place

with a really cool interior and

excellent gin and tonics.

‘I can often be found at my

favourite café, the tea-room

AM Sweet on rue des Char-

treux. It is the most delicious

and cosy place and has a family

atmosphere. I’m also a regular

Laurent Gerbaud is a talented Belgian

chocolatier who is renowned not only

for his exceptional confectionery

but also for his inspired use of spices

and Asian favours in his products.

He shares his local secrets with

Isabella Redmond Styles chocolatsgerbaud.be

Page 65: SHOP Belgium AW14

SHOP | 65

Above (from top): Charli; Maison Dandoy

Find out more about Laurent

Gerbaud’s neighbourhood

at: globalblue.com/

neighbourhood

at Café Central at Saint-

Géry, one of the oldest cafés

in the area, which has a lovely

wooden interior, the best DJs at

the weekend, and cool staf. At

weekends, I like to go for brunch

at the fea market in place du Jeu

de Balle, enjoying a table on the

terrace at Pin Pon or at Chaf.

‘If I have friends visit-

ing Brussels, I’ll take them on

a food walking tour, from ar-

tisanal beers made by Belgian

micro-brewers at Moeder

Lambic at place Fontainas, to

Speculoos biscuits at Dandoy

at rue au Beurre. We’ll pass

bread and cheese – Charli and

Crèmerie de Linkebeek – at

Sainte-Catherine, and fnish

with a glass of white wine and

some maatjes (herrings) at Mer

du Nord. No chocolate on the

way, only savouries.

‘For a non-food related walk,

I prefer the south of Brussels,

next to my apartment, especially

Bois de la Cambre and Forêt de

Soignes. Brussels is very green

and has plenty of parks even in

the centre. It’s a city to discover

by walking, taking your time

and enjoying little things. Don’t

hesitate to ask store staf for ad-

vice on less touristy places; they

will always be very helpful, and

happy to advise you on how to

see the best of our city.’

Page 66: SHOP Belgium AW14

66

/ 7773

81

When you shop the world, shop tax free

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Page 67: SHOP Belgium AW14

globalblue.com

67

Airport

Refund Ofces details:Brussels Zaventem Airport:

Departure Hall

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Amsterdam Schiphol Airport:

Departures 3/landside, next

to customs

Lounge 2/departures, gate E,

ABN AMRO Bank, counter 1

lounge 3/non-Schengen area

Departures 3/airside

Refund Ofces

Key

Landside

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Security Control

Customs stamp

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2Refund Ofce 2

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GatesA01-A08

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Page 68: SHOP Belgium AW14

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Page 69: SHOP Belgium AW14

globalblue.com

Translations

69

В конце 1980-х шесть бельгийских дизайнеров ворвались на мировую модную сцену, и их история вскоре стала легендой. Анн Демельмейстер, Дрис Ван Нотен, Вальтер Ван Берендонк, Дирк Биккембергс, Дирк ван Саен и Марина Йи вместе учились в Королевской академии изящных искусств в Антверпене (Koninklijke Acad-emie voor Schone Kunsten Ant-

30: In Its Own Fashion

В своем стиле

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОДwerpen), и вскоре после выпуска прогремели на весь мир как «Антверпенская шестерка».

Их совместный дебют состоялся в 1988 году на Лондонской неделе моды. В то время ни у кого из них не было денег, чтобы самостоятельно представить свою коллекцию, поэтому они объединились, загрузили одежду в фургон и отправились в Лондон. И сразу произвели фурор, а первый же заказ поступил от магазина Barneys New York.

Некоторые из них, особенно Дрис ван Нотен и Анн Демельмейстер, сумели добиться серьезного успеха и построить бренды мирового уровня (сама Демельмейстр покинула свой бренд в 2013 году). Другие, как, например, Вальтер Ван Бейрендонк, нашли себя в преподавании. Но дело даже не в том, как сложилась их профессиональная судьба. Гораздо важнее, что в тот момент шестерка дизайнеров стала той самой силой, способной изменить моду. Причем они не только преобразили тенденции и вкус, но и стали образцом для подражания для молодого поколения бельгийских дизайнеров.

Момент оказался весьма удачным. Антверпенская

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шестерка удачно вышла к публике в период тектонических сдвигов в мире моды. Крупные бренды тогда активно работали на всех континентах (Armani и Versace в Италии, а Ralph Lauren и Calvin Klein в Америке), и при всех их различиях, предлагали исключительно коммерческий подход к женской одежде. Новый авангард оказался на противоположном полюсе.

Дизайнеры из Японии, в том числе Рей Кавакубо (Comme des Garçon) и Йоджи Ямамото, оказались на авансцене за несколько лет до этого. С их появлением в тренд вышла совершенно новая эстетика - умная и вызывающая, ничего подобного в моде еще никогда не было. Таким образом, по целому ряду причин, все просто располагало к появлению великолепных бельгийцев. Их привлекательная авангардная эстетика очаровала новое поколение женщин, которым была так нужна созвучная времени одежда. И вскоре премьеры коллекций стали проходить главным образом в Париже.

Разумеется, для каждого из них характерен собственный стиль: например, насыщенная чувственность Дриса ван Нотена едва ли похожа на темную андрогинность в стиле рок Анн Демельмейстер. Но всегда остается нечто, что объединяет всех бельгийских дизайнеров, в том числе последовавшее по стопам новых

звезд молодое поколение.Модный стиль этой

страны всегда был и остается эмоциональным и индивидуалистичным. Он имеет дело с реальной женщиной, а не с абстрактными представлениями о женственности. Поэтому и коллекции вырастают органично, а не бросаясь от тренда к тренду каждый сезон. Демельмейстер объясняла это так: «Каждая коллекция для меня – это новый шаг, и каждый такой шаг очень важен. Поэтому я никогда не тороплюсь. Если я хочу сделать что-то новое, я стремлюсь сделать это хорошо».

Антверпенская шестерка во многом опередила свое время и даже предсказала будущее, ведь сейчас, спустя два десятилетия, мы живем в мире, где эмоциям отводится главная роль. По словам Демельмейстер, до звездного часа Антверпенской шестерки у Бельгии, по сути, не было собственного модного образа: «У нас нет богатого модного наследия, какой есть в Париже или Милане. Я всегда ощущала, что стою у истоков, поэтому могла ориентироваться на собственные идеи, - размышляет дизайнер. – Но это подразумевало и большую ответственность. Я должна была сделать нечто по-настоящему хорошее. Возможно, в этом источник больших амбиций бельгийских дизайнеров».

Их творческая судьба в значительной мере повлияла

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на статус Академию изящных искусств в Антверпене. Раньше сюда поступали преимущественно бельгийцы. Однако теперь она признана одной из ведущих модных школ мира, а студенты приезжают учиться отовсюду. Разумеется, признание соотечественников придал сил и уверенности бельгийским творческим личностям. Оливье Тейскес, Хайдер Аккерман и Раф Симонс добились выдающегося мирового успеха. Постепенно поднимается еще одно молодое поколение, и возглавляет новую волну бельгийского дизайна Нильс Пирае. Их истории совсем не похожи друг на друга. Но они все впитали уроки тех шести дизайнеров, которые почти 30 лет назад вывели бельгийскую моду в авангард. Они выработали особый стиль – и в итоге только обогатили моду.

В 1958 году модный дом Delvaux создал культовую сумку Le Brillant. Она стала классикой и в то же время осталась в авангарде современной моде, - рассказывает Ханна Льюис

Большинство современных женщин не представляют своей повседневности без сумочки. Однако до того как путешествия по железной дороге получили

38: In Focus: Delvaux’s Le

Brillant Bag

В фокусе: Сумка Le Brillant от Delvaux

повсеместное распространение, потребность в дамских сумках была далеко не очевидной. В 19 веке чемоданных дел мастер Шарль Делво сумел предсказать, как именно технологическое развитие повлияет на образ жизни женщин. Он предположил, что получив свободу путешествий, они захотят держать личные вещи поближе к себе. Так семейное предприятие, которым он управлял, заинтересовалось новым направлением, а в 1908 году был зарегистрирован первый патент на модель дамской сумочки.

Компания Delvaux – один из старейших в мире роскошных модных домов, специализирующихся на коже: он был основан в Брюсселе в 1829 году. Можно даже сказать, что он старше самой P

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Бельгии, ведь страна получила независимость от Нидерландов только в 1830 году. В наши дни тысячи людей по всем миру восхищаются умением Delvaux придерживаться своей традиции и в то же время оставаться в авангарде. Кроме того, бренд неизменно хранит верность исключительному качеству. Все это помогает ему не только лидировать в сфере роскоши, но последовательно выстраивать надежную репутацию. Невозможно переоценить и влияние Delvaux на состояние индустрии в целом: когда-то эта компания создала спрос на роскошные сумки, а потом первой стала выпускать готовые коллекции кожгалантереи в соответствии с модными сезонами.

За 185 лет под маркой Delvaux вышло более 3000 моделей, и каждая из них была проработана самым тщательным образом. Для этой компании сумка – практически один из жанров скульптуры, где утонченное мастерство напрямую влияет на ясность формы и выраженную простоту стиля. Каждая вещь прорабатывает вручную из лучших видов кожи в одной из фирменных мастерских в Бельгии и Франции. Исключительность бренда подтверждает и статус поставщика Бельгийского королевского двора, полученный в 1883 году.

Все модели Delvaux

совершенны и целостны по форме. Но именно Le Brillant можно назвать культовой. Ее премьера состоялась в 1958 году: она сразу получила заслуженное признание и вошла в число тех особенных вещей, обладание которыми – повод для гордости. Дизайнер Поль Гетальс придал Le Brillant ровный силуэт и мягкие, скругленные углы, дополнив лишь одной заметной деталью – большой пряжкой в центре. За прошедшие десятилетия она повлияла на дизайн сумок в целом. Но если другие аксессуары призваны привлекать внимание, то Le Brillant транслирует неподвластный времени стиль и лаконичную элегантность.

Своим статусом эта модель во многом обязана неповторимому качеству. Бригитт Марк работает в компании Delvaux уже 45 лет и не понаслышке знакома со всеми тонкостями производственного процесса: «Над каждой Le Brillant работает пять человек, - объясняет она. – Им требуется от восьми до 10 часов на весь цикл - от первых разрезов кожи до финальных штрихов». Именно эта модель задает уровень, по которому судят обо всей продукции бренда, и сотрудники Delvaux осознают свою ответственность: «Если мастер способен проработать Le Brillant, то он или она может создать и любую другую сумку нашего модного дома», - добавляет Марк

Она относит непреходящий

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66: When You Shop The

World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с tax free

Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shop-ping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира.Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

успех модели Le Brillant на счет детально продуманного дизайна. Каждая сумка собирается из 64 кусочков кожи, и эти лекала не меняются с 1958 года. Этого и не требуется: по словам Бригитт Марк, «каждый элемент был в свое время идеально проработан». С учетом вневременного стиля и великолепного качества, сумки Delvaux служат многие годы: Le Brillant уже стала предметом коллекционирования, и ее передают по наследству как истинную ценность. С первых же дней она пришлась по душе самым стильным женщинам мира, и ее востребованность только растет со временем. Королева Бельгии Матильда, журналистка и стилист Тиани Кирилофф, знаток моды из Кореи Ким На Янг – самые разные лидеры мнений носят Le Brillant с нескрываемой гордостью.

Каждый сезон эта культовая модель переосмысляется в новых цветах и материалах. С одной стороны, она остается классической. Однако Del-vaux делает ставку на модные инновации, поэтому старается развивать даже культовые вещи. Например, в коллекции Les Humeurs de Brillant («Настроения Brillant») бренд пробовал на прочность свое умение адаптироваться к вызовам времени и оставаться на передовой креативности в любых условиях. Эта серия включает в себя девять

специальных сумок Le Brillant, воплощающих различные концепты – Le Rêve («Мечта»), La Singularité («Оригинальность») и другиеКлассическая черная вариация L’Humour создана под вдохновением от картин бельгийского художника éене Магритта из серии «Вероломство образов». Поэтому ее украшает надпись ‘ceci n’est pas un Delvaux’ («Это не Delvaux»). Опираясь на бельгийское художественное наследие, эта сумка успешно сочетает модернизм с неподвластной времени элегантностью. И этот уровень вполне соответствует статусу одной из старейших кожевенных компаний в мире.delvaux.com

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美文翻译

像比利时这样的迷你国度是如何征服世

界秀场的?Clare Coulson为您解答

在19 8 0年代末期,六名比利时设计

师在 时尚舞台上崭露头角,他们的故

事也自此成 为传奇。Ann Demeu l

eester、Dries VanNoten、WalterVan

Beirendonck、Dirk Bikkembergs、

Dirk vanSaene与 Marina Yee六人

一同在Koninklijke Academie voorSchone Kunsten Antwerpen(安特

卫普皇家美术学院)学习,并被并称为安

特卫普六君子。1988年的伦敦时装周之

旅让他们初露头角。由于没有足够的经

费单独发布自己的作品,六位设计师共

同集资,驾驶着装满衣服的卡车一路开

到了伦敦。在那里他们引起了强烈反响,

并从纽的Barneys百货公司获得了第一

张订单。

其中最引人瞩目的Dr i e s Va n

Noten与Ann Demeulemeester继续

奋斗,打造出空前成功与极具影响力的

全球事业版图。(但Demeulemeester

30: In Its Own Fashion

自成一格

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在1958年皮具制造商Delvaux推出了

标志性手袋Le Bril lant。该款设计在

今日仍不失创意又经典十足,Hannah

Lewis报道

对大多数当代女性而言,离开手提袋的

生活是不可想象的。然而在铁路旅行尚

未普及之前,对于手提袋的需求还不广

泛。在19世纪,旅行箱制造商Charles

Delvaux意识到铁路革命将对女性造成

的影响,当她们开始四处旅行之际,定需

要随身携带个人物品。由此,该家族企业

38: In Focus:

Delvaux’s Le Brillant Bag

聚焦:Delvaux的Le Brillant手袋

于2013年宣告离开她的自名品牌)以

Walter Van Beirendonck为首的若干

人亦则投身教学。但无论之后的境遇如

何变化,在那刻这六位设计师凝聚成一

股颠覆时尚界的力量,他们不仅为业界

带来审美口味上的转变,更激励了新一

代的比利时设计师。

时机就是一切。安特卫普六君子的

出现,恰逢时尚界发生激变之时。全球知

名品牌分别在不同的大洲上拓展(Ar-

man i与Versace在意大利,Ra lph

Lauren和Calvin Klein在美国),这些

品牌虽大相径庭,但都出品着高度商业化

的女装系列。与之形成鲜明度对比的是

前卫时尚的兴起。山本耀司与Comme

des Garçon的川久保玲等日本设计师,

在这之前的几年突然蹿红,一种全新的

的时尚美学得以催生。这是对传统的质

疑但也是值得庆贺的事。他们为时尚界

带来许多前所未见的东西。所以对比利

时人而言时机已经成熟,他们酷感十足

的前卫美学,正满足了新一代女性以时

装发声、反映时代变革的渴望。

虽然安特卫普六君子继续前往巴黎

发布作品,并且以组合的方式呈现,但实

际上他们之间的差异性相当显著。举例

而言,Dries Van Noten作品中饱含的

细腻情感,与Demeulemeester暗黑硬

朗的中性化设计截然不同。即便如此,他

们仍旧被某些羁绊联合在一起,如同紧

随其后的其他比利时设计师一般。

比利时式的美学从古至今都是感

性、个人化、崇尚真实的女性特质,而非

某些极端的女性化概念。他们的作品并

非跟着潮流突变,而是循序渐进地有机

进化着。正如Demeulemeester离开前

所解释的,“每个系列都是新的一步,而每

一步都很重要。我从不着急。如果要做

些创新的东西,我希望把它做好。”

从今日被情感所主导的世界来看,

安特卫普六君子在很多方面都领先于他

们的时代,有着预言式的先见之明。

对于Demeulemeester而言,她的

创作初衷可以追溯到安特卫普六君子出

现之前的比利时,当时这个国家并没有属

于自己的风格。“在比利时,我们并没有

像巴黎或米兰那样的庞大时尚遗产。我

总是觉得自己必须从零开始,以创作一些

真正属于自己的东西,”这位设计师思考

着。“然而这也催生了某种责任感。我必

须要做出一些很不错的东西来。这或许

就是比利时人的野心。”

这批先驱者的辉煌为Koninklijke

Academie voor Schone Kunsten

Antwerpen(安特卫普皇家美术学院)

在时尚界挣得一席之地。在安特卫普六

君子诞生之前,这所学校基本只招收比

利时本土学生。然而这批设计师的崛起,

为其奠定了全球最佳时装学校之一的地

位,全球范围内的学生纷至沓来。自然,

它对于比利时本土设计人才具有更大的

吸引力。

Oliv ier Theyskens、Haider

Ackermann与Raf Simons等设计师

分别以不同的方式,获得了全球性的巨大

成功。其他后起之秀如Niels Peeraer等人,也正积极推动着比利时设计的新浪

潮。这些设计师虽然风格迥异,但都从

30年前崛起的那六位设计师获得了不少

领悟。他们各自确立的独特风格,为时尚

界带来愈加丰富的可能。

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开始制造包手提袋,并在1908成为历史

上首个为包袋设计申请专利的公司。

1829年成立于布鲁塞尔的Del-

vaux,是全世界历史最悠久的奢侈品

皮具制造商之一。事实上该公司的成立

甚至要早于比利时建国,后者在1830

年才脱离荷兰统治宣告独立。公司很快

在世界各地赢得了巨大声誉。Delvaux

在创新的同时保 持传统,并以对质量

的承诺为企业核心,因此获得了世人的

尊崇,Delvaux也走在各类奢侈品发

展的最前沿。从挖掘对超级奢侈手袋

与日俱增的需求,到成为首家与高级定

制发布季同步推出系列的奢华皮具品

牌,Delvaux是业界游戏规则的制定

者。

Delvaux公司在过去185年中,共

推出了3000多个手袋设计,每一款都匠

心独具。品牌将手袋视为雕塑的一种形

式,偏爱采用结构性强的设计,并以复杂

工艺来演绎简约外观。品牌使用来自法国

与意大利的顶级皮革,且每件Delvaux

产品都是在位于比利时与法国的车间中

手工制作的。Delvaux也是一个拥有无

上荣耀的品牌,它持有比利时皇室颁布

的皇家认证,并且在1883年就首次荣获

了这份殊荣。

每件Delvaux的设计都力求尽善尽

美。然而品牌的招牌手袋Le Brillant是

具有时代性的。它于1958年推出后即刻

受到好评,蹿升为炙手可热的单品。设计

师Paule Goethals打造的Le Brillant

包拥有简洁的线条与柔和圆润的边缘。

包袋中央的夸张搭扣是唯一吸引眼球的

部分,它所散发出的低调优雅,俨然成为

今日时尚着装的金科玉律。在这款包发

布后的几十年间,它对手袋设计产生了深

远的影响。尽管不断有新款包袋争相吸

引人们的目光,Le Brillant依旧是永恒

风尚与低调奢华的缩影。

Le Brillant的吸引力还在于其精湛

的制作工艺。工艺大师Brigitte Marcq

为Delvaux工作了45年,对其繁复的制

作过程了如指掌。“制作一个Le Bril-

lant包需要五人参与,”她解释。“从切

割皮革到最后上色的全过程,需要8到

10个小时。”对于Delvaux的工匠们而

言,Le Bril lant是需要学会制作的最

重要的产品,因为它是该品牌所有包袋

的评判准绳。“当一名工匠可以制作Le

Brillant的时候,他或她就可以制作任何

Delvaux公司的包袋,”Marcq补充道。

Marcq认为Le Brillant的久盛不

衰,还因其经过慎重考量的设计。该款包

拥有由64块皮革组成的独特结构,并且

从1958年以来就从未改变过,因为,她

说,“每个组件都是经过深思熟虑的”。归

功于设计与工艺,每个包都拥有难以置

信的超长使用寿命。每位收藏者都期望

拥有一只Le Brillant手袋,并将其代代

相传。从这款包诞生之日起就受到时尚

女性的追捧,时至今日依旧抢手。从比利

时女王Mathilde,记者兼设计师Tiany

Kiriloff,到韩国时尚名媛李娜英,显贵

达人们在今日仍以携带Le Brillant为

骄傲。

Le Brillant在每季都选用新的色

彩与材质进行重新塑造。这或许是一款

经典手袋,但奢华皮具制造商Delvaux

同样以创新闻名,即使是 旗 下的标 志

作品仍不例外。在Les Humeurs de

Brillant(Brillant的表情)系列中,品

牌探索了不断适应变化时代并居于潮流

前列的可能。这个系列中包括九款特别版

的Le Brillant手袋,每款都体现着不同

的概念,从Le Rêve(梦)到La Singu-

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当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商

店消费时,环球蓝联(Global Blue)购

物退税服务(Tax Free Shopping)为

您节约购物开销。

每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝

联(Global Blue)获得购物退税,您怎

能错过?您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或

者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联(Global

Blue)服务,然后遵循我们简单的退税

过程:

1. 消费购物

无论您在哪里消费,请索要环球蓝联

退税表格(Global Blue Tax Free

Form),并记得保存小票。

2. 申请退税

当您准备回家时,您需要先去出发城市

的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格上盖

章,然后再到环球蓝联的退税点领取您

的退税款。

联系方式:

[email protected]

+421 232 111 111

最低消费€125.01 并且节约高达购买价

格16%的税。请注意:最终退款将包含增

值税总额,但是要扣除管理手续费。部分

机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取现金

退税手续费。

66: When You Shop The

World, Shop Tax Free

畅购全球,尊享退税

小国ベルギーが世界のキャットウォーク

を席巻しているのはどうして?クレア・コ

ールソンが答えを見つけた。

1980年代後半に、ベルギー出身の6人の

デザイナーがファッションシーンに踊り

30: In Its Own Fashion

「自分なり」がベルギー風

日本語翻訳larité(奇点)。受到比利时艺术家René

Magritte的绘画作品The Treachery

of Images的启发,L’Humour是一款

绣着传奇口号“ceci n’est pas un Del-

vaux(这不是一只Delvaux包袋)”的

经典款黑色Le Brillant手袋。从比利时

艺术遗产中的超现实主义的奇思妙想中

汲取养分,这款包融合了摩登与永恒优

雅。Delvaux作为全球最古老奢侈皮具

公司之一, 远远地超越了大众的期望。

delvaux.com

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78

出た。その話は今や伝説になっている。

その6人とはアン・ドゥムルメステール、ド

リス・ヴァン・ノッテン、ウォルター・ヴァ

ン・ベイレンドンク、ダーク・ビッケンバー

グ、ダーク・ヴァン・セーヌ、マリーナ・イ

ーで、アントワープ王立芸術学院の同窓

生だったことから「アントワープ・シック

ス」として知られるようになる。彼らが業

界に足跡を記したのは、1988年のロンド

ン・ファッションウィークがきっかけだっ

た。誰も単独で参加しコレクションを披

露するだけの資金がなかったため、グル

ープとしてエントリーし、ワゴン車に服を

満載してロンドンへ。そこで大反響を呼

び、バーニーズ・ニューヨークから初オー

ダーが入る。

以来、6人のうち一部(中でもドリ

ス・ヴァン・ノッテンとアン・ドゥムルメス

テール)は国際的にビジネスを展開して

大成功を収め、影響力のあるブランドを

築き上げた。(ドゥムルメステールは2013

年11月に自分のブランドを去っている

が。)ウォルター・ヴァン・ベイレンドンク

など他の面々は、教鞭もとっている。後

の展開はどうあれ、この6人はあの時ロン

ドンでファッション界を変える力となり、

テイストの変化を促したばかりか、ベル

ギーの新世代デザイナーにインスピレー

ションを与えた。

全てはタイミングだった。アントワー

プ・シックスが台頭してきた時は、ちょう

どファッションの大転換期だったのだ。

各大陸で国際ブランドが発達し(イタリ

アではアルマーニやヴェルサーチ、アメ

リカではラルフ・ローレンやカルバン・ク

ライン)、互いに独自性を持ちながら、ま

さに一般市場向けのウーマンズウェアを

こぞって提供していた。その対極では、

新しいアヴァンギャルドファッションが出

現しつつあった。山本耀司やコム・デ・ギ

ャルソンの川久保玲など、日本人デザイ

ナーたちが数年前からにわかに台頭し、

全く新しい美感が生まれていたのだ。挑

戦的で知性に訴える、それまでのファッ

ション界には無かった感覚だ。このよう

に、いろんな点でベルギー人デザイナー

が登場する舞台は既に整っていた。そし

て、彼らのクールでアヴァンギャルドな美

学が、時代にマッチした服を求める新世

代の女性を興奮させたのだ。

6人はその後はパリでショーを開催

することが多くなる。「6人衆」と括られ

ることが多いが、彼らの美的感覚は実は

大きく異なっている。たとえば、ドリス・

ヴァン・ノッテンのリッチな感性は、ドゥ

ムルメステールのダークでロックかぶれ

風の両性的な感じとは全く違う。そうし

た違いがありながら、彼らを結び、後に

続くベルギー出身デザイナーにも共通す

る何かがあるのだ。

ベルギーの感性は昔も今も情緒的

で個性的であり、観念としての女性らし

さの追求というよりは、現実の女性をテ

ーマにしている。コレクションも、トレン

ドからトレンドへシーズンごとに急転換

するのでなく、有機的に進化する。ドゥム

ルメステールが自名を冠したブランドを

去る前に言ったように、「それぞれのコレ

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79

38: In Focus:

Delvaux’s Le Brillant Bag

注目のアイテム:

デルヴォーのブリヨンバッグ

1958年、革製品メーカーのデルヴォー

がアイコニックなバッグ「ブリヨン」を創

った。そのデザインは古典的でありなが

ら、今も革新性を追求し続けている。ハ

ンナ・ルイスがレポートする。

多くの現代女性にとって、ハンドバッグ

の無い生活は考えられない。だが、鉄道

旅行が発達する前は、誰もがハンドバッ

グを必要とする世界には程遠かった。19

世紀に、トランク職人シャルル・デルヴォ

ーは、鉄道革命が女性に与える影響に

思い至り、移動が可能になれば所持品

を手元近くに持っておきたいと思うだろ

うと考えた。そこで、デルヴォー一家が

経営する会社はその目的用のバッグを開

発。1908年にはハンドバッグのデザイン

について特許を申請した先駆け企業の

一つとなる。

1829年にブリュッセルで創業した

デルヴォーは、世界最古の高級革製品メ

ーカーの一つ。実際、1830年にオランダ

から独立を宣言したベルギーの建国より

古い。その同社は世界中で優れた評判

クションが新たなステップであり、一つ

一つのステップが重要」なのだ。「私は

決して先を急ぎません。何か新しいこと

をしたいと思ったら、それをうまくやりた

いんです。」

アントワープ・シックスは多くの面

で時代を先取りし、情緒が先行する今日

の世界を実に鋭く読んでいた。

ドゥムルメステールにとって6人の

共通点はというと、おそらく「アントワー

プ・シックスが登場するまで、ベルギー独

特のルックスというものが存在しなかっ

た」という事実に行きつくだろう。「ベル

ギーはパリやミラノのようにファッション

の大いなる伝統がなく、いつもゼロから

出発しなければならないと感じていまし

た。だから、自分自身のスタイルを創り

出すことができたんだと思います」と、彼

女は振り返る。「一方で、責任感も感じ

ました。何か本当に良いものを創らなく

ては、という気持ちです。たぶんそれが、

ベルギー出身者が持つ野心なんだと思

います。」

彼女たちの活躍で、アントワープ王

立芸術学院の名が挙がったのは間違い

ない。同校は以前はベルギーの学生がほ

とんどだったが、アントワープ・シックス

の台頭で世界有数のファッション学院と

しての地位が確立され、国外からの学生

も徐々に増えている。また、6人衆のおか

げでベルギー出身デザイナーの影響力

が強まったのは言うまでもない。

オリヴィエ・ティスケンス、ハイデ

ル・アッケルマン、ラフ・シモンズといった

デザイナーは、経緯は大きく異なるが、い

ずれも世界的大成功を収めている。そし

て、今またベルギーデザインのニューウェ

ーブを巻き起こしているのが、ニールス・

ペラールなど他の若手スターデザイナー

だ。それぞれが独特ながら、全員がほぼ

30年前に台頭した6人の経験を踏まえて

いる。自身のスタイルを確立した彼らが

加わって、ファッションはますます豊かに

なっている。

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80

を築き上げてきた。伝統を守りつつも革

新的で、あくまで品質にこだわる点が高

く評価されるデルヴォーは、高級品の発

展過程でたびたび先頭に立ってきた。超

高級ハンドバッグの需要増大に乗じ、ま

た、高級革製品ブランドとしては初めて

オートクチュールシーズンに合わせてコ

レクションを制作する等、デルヴォーは

業界のゲームチェンジャーだ。

デルヴォーでは、創業以来185年間

で3000点以上のハンドバッグをデザイ

ンし、その一つ一つを丹念に開発してき

た。ハンドバッグをほとんど一種の彫刻

のように考えているため、作品は構造的

な形が多く、見た目のシンプルさを複雑

な職人の技で実現している。デルヴォー

の商品は、フランスやイタリアから取り

寄せた最高級の革を用い、一つ一つを

ベルギーとフランスの同社工房で手作り

している。デルヴォーブランドの格式の

高さは、同社がベルギー王室御用達で

ある事実(初用命は1883年)にも表れて

いる。

デルヴォーのデザインはどれも洗

練されているが、象徴的なデザインとい

えばやはり同ブランドお馴染みのブリヨ

ンだ。1958年に発売されたとたん評判

となり、瞬く間に傑作と言われるように

なる。ポール・ゲタルスがデザインしたこ

のバッグは、すっきりしたラインと柔らか

な丸みを帯びた角が特徴で、唯一目を引

く特徴は中央の大きなバックルだけ。そ

れが醸し出す慎ましいエレガンスは、以

来、スタイリッシュな装いの頂点となっ

た。誕生から数十年、ブリヨンはハンド

バッグのデザインに多大な影響を与えて

きた。他のバッグがあの手この手で注意

を引こうとする中、ブリヨンは時代を超え

たスタイルと控えめな贅沢の象徴となっ

ている。

ブリヨンの魅力は絶妙な職人技の

賜物である部分が大きい。熟練職人の

ブリジット・マルクはデルヴォー勤続45

年で、製造過程の複雑さを知り尽くして

いる。「ブリヨンを一つ作るのは5人掛か

りの作業で、革の裁断から最後の仕上

げまでの全工程に8時間から10時間かか

ります。」ブリヨンは同ブランドの他のバ

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81

グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング

制度をご利用いただきますと、世界各地

の有名ショッピング街にある27万軒を超

える加盟店でのお買い物がお得になり

ます。

年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバ

ル・ブルーの免税ショッピングを、貴方

もぜひご利用ください。手続きは簡単。

まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探しま

す。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グ

ローバル・ブルー?」とお尋ねください。

あとは、次のステップを踏むだけです。

1.お買い物

お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・

ブルーの免税書類(タックスフリー・フォ

ーム)を受け取ってください。レシートを

保管するのも忘れずに。

2.還付請求

ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関でレ

シートに承認印を押してもらってから、

グローバル・ブルーの還付事務所で払い

戻しを受けます。

€125.01以上のお買い物をすれば、購入

価格の最高16%の払い戻しが受けられ

ます。最終的な払い戻し額は、付加価値

税(VAT)合計から事務手数料を差し引

いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承く

ださい。 一部の空港で現金での即時払

い戻しをご希望の場合は、取り扱い手数

料が免税書類ごとに課されます。

66: When You Shop The

World, Shop Tax Free

海外でのお買い物が免税に

ッグが評価される際の基準になるため、

デルヴォーの職人にとってその製造法を

マスターすることはこの上なく重要だ。「

ブリヨンを作れるようになれば、デルヴ

ォーの他のどんなバッグでも作れます」

と、マルクは言い添える。

マルクによれば、ブリヨンの人気が

絶えないのはとてもよく考えられたデザ

インのおかげという。このバッグは64の

革片から成る独特の構造で、そのテンプ

レートは1958年から変わっていない。「

各要素が徹底的に考え抜かれたものだ

から」という。そうしたデザインと職人気

質に支えられ、ブリヨンは耐久性も抜群

だ。このハンドバッグはコレクターズアイ

テムになり、代々受け継がれている。誕

生した瞬間からスタイリッシュ極まる女

性たちが愛してきたブリヨンは、今も人

気が高い。ベルギーのマティルド王妃か

ら、ジャーナリストでスタイリストでもあ

るティアニー・キリロフ、韓国のファッシ

ョンファン、キム・ナヨンまで、現代のフ

ァッション通は誇りをもってブリヨンを

手にしている。

ブリヨンは毎シーズン、新色や新素

材でイメージを新たにしている。古典的

なハンドバッグとはいえ、デルヴォーは革

新で名を成した高級革製品メーカーだ。

同社製品の代表格であるこのバッグに

ついても、歩みを止めることはない。デル

ヴォーはレジュメール・ド・ブリヨン(気

まぐれな輝き)と題したコレクションを

通じて、変わりゆく時代に順応し、創造

性の最先端に留まる力のほどを試してい

る。これは9つの特別限定ブリヨンから

なるシリーズで、ル・レーヴ(夢)、ラ・シ

ンギュラリテ(唯一無二)など各々が別

のコンセプトを体現している。ベルギー人

アーティスト、ルネ・マグリットの絵画『

イメージの裏切り』に発想を得たリュムー

ル(ユーモア)は、流行り廃りのない黒の

ブリヨンに「ceci n’est pas un Delvaux(

これはデルヴォ―じゃない)」という銘を

入れたもの。シュールレアリズム的な気ま

ぐれを芸術的伝統として受け継ぐベルギ

ーならではのこのバッグは、モダニズムと

時代を超えたエレガンスの融合だ。さす

がは世界最古級の高級革製品メーカー。

まさに期待通りといえよう。

delvaux.com

Page 82: SHOP Belgium AW14

82 | PRODUC TS

Souvenir

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 66

minimalist designs with luxurious

quality. The Dure collection is

crafted from grey marble; its pieces

have leather-covered bases and are

inset with cast bronze rings for a

modern and elegant look. Michaël

Verheyden creations can be found

at the lovely Graanmarkt 13 bou-

tique in Antwerp, which presents

a beautifully curated collection of

male and female fashion, accesso-

ries and homeware. gl

Michaël Verheyden Dure vase,

€1,612, and fruit bowl, €1,768,

Graanmarkt 13, Graanmarkt 13,

2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 337 7992,

michaelverheyden.com

MAJESTIC MINIMALISM

Michaël Verheyden graduated as

an industrial engineer before turn-

ing his hand to accessories and

homeware design. Working with

natural materials selected for their

durability – such as marble, wood,

leather and brass – Verheyden

creates objects with beautifully

simple, clean aesthetics and geo-

metric references. A combination

of high-grade materials and ex-

cellent craftsmanship infuses the

Page 83: SHOP Belgium AW14
Page 84: SHOP Belgium AW14

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