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Page 40 TRUE ORIGINALS: how Germany’s traditional porcelain makers are winning new fans FRANKFURT Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2016 FRANKFURT | ФРАНКФУРТ | 法兰克福 | انكفورت فر

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Page 1: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

Page 40

TRUE ORIGINALS:

how Germany’s traditional

porcelain makers are

winning new fans F

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FRANKFURT | ФРАНКФУРТ | 法兰克福 | فرانكفورت

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Frankfurt Kaiserstraße 1

WATCHES JEWELRY GEMS

ein Schweizer Traditionsunternehmenund eines der führenden Häuser fürUhren und Schmuck in Europa. In Frankfurts größtem Juweliergeschäfterwartet Sie eine überwältigendeAuswahl an Luxus-Uhrenmarkensowie exquisite Schmuckstücke, einerstklassiger Service und eine eigeneRolex und Patek Philippe Boutique.

Willkommen bei Bucherer,

a Swiss company with a long traditionand one of the leading establishmentsfor watches and jewellery in Europe.In Frankfurt’s largest jewellery store,you will find an overwhelming selection of luxury watch brands andexquisite jewellery, as well as first-classservice and an in-shop Rolex andPatek Philippe Boutique.

Welcome to Bucherer,

und viele mehr · and many more

Page 5: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Nuremberg | Basel Bern Davos Geneva Interlaken

Lausanne Locarno Lugano Lucerne St. Gallen St. Moritz Zermatt Zurich | Vienna | Paris | bucherer.com

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BÖRSENSTRASSE 1 • FRANKFURT

shop tommy.com

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DEUTSCHE UHRMACHERKUNST.1893

Page 9: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

www.christ.de

Page 10: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

DOUGL AS.EU

Beauty and more …visi� Europe’�

No. 1 perfumery!

WE WILL BE PLE ASED TO WELCOME YOU TO THE

DOUGL AS WORLD OF BE AU T Y IN FR ANKFURT:

∙ Zeil 98–102, 069 - 133869150

∙ Kaiser Straße 1, 069 - 284969

Page 11: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

Discover a perfumery tradition that dates back more than 100 years, and enjoy Europe’s largest assortment of leading beauty brands – from exclusive fragrances and luxury skin care to trendy color cos-metic products and fashion accessories.

With 1,700 perfumeries in 19 countries, we are dedicated to providing excellent services and personal consultation to our customers.

Explore our world of beauty! Read more on douglas.eu

Page 12: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

Then you’ve come to the right place at C&A. Awaiting you here are the latest trends, ranging from sporty to elegant, as well as a truly special shopping experience. We offer our customers a large selection of ladies’, men’s and children’s fashions – of course always of the highest quality and at extremely low prices.

facebook.com/ca

In the mood for fashion?

visit us: www.canda.com

Frankfurt: Zeil 48 • Nordwestzentrum • Hessen-Center

Page 13: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

Вы любите моду?Тогда посетите магазины C&A. В наших торговых

центрах вас ожидают товары новейших трендов

в любом стиле от спортивного до элегантного.

Шоппинг в них станет для вас событием особого

рода. У нас вы найдете широкий ассортимент

модной женской, мужской и детской одежды –

конечно же лучшего качества и по самым

привлекательным ценам.

هل أنت راغب بآخر الصيحات؟

إذا ستسعد بما تقدمه محلت C&A. ستجدون لدينا أخر صيحات الموضة،

من ملبس السبور إلى قمة الناقة. وماعليكم إل أن تتمتعوا بالتسوق في

محلتنا. لقد عودنا زبائننا الكرام على تشكيلة واسعة من ملبس السيدات

والرجال والطفال ذات النوعية العالية وبأفضل الثمان .

Page 14: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

Emma Cheevers

EDITOR’S LETTER

14

@GlobalBlue

@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu

/globalblue

/globalblue

@shopcontent

ILL

US

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: IS

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ON

AN

Welcome to Frankfurt

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you

discover the very best of this prosperous fnancial centre. Frankfurt has

much to ofer, as our guide on page 61 reveals. Readers who appreciate

world-class homeware will enjoy our feature on local and not-so-local

traditional porcelain manufacturers (page 40), and in this issue we also

profle the hugely successful German fashion label Hugo Boss.

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader

that helps you save up to 14.5% when shopping in Germany. We publish

guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international

insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top

global brands you’ll fnd in Frankfurt. For the very latest information,

visit globalblue.com.

Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the

simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand,

and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit

globalblue.com/join.

Austria

Austrian Alps

Barcelona

Belgium

Berlin

Cologne

Copenhagen

捷克共和国

Düsseldorf

Frankfurt

French Riviera

دليل ألانيا

德国指南

Германия

Gothenburg

Hamburg

Hanover

Helsinki Area

Holland

Istanbul

Italy

Japan

Lake Saimaa

Lebanon

London

Madrid

Milan

Munich

Nuremburg

Oslo

Paris

巴黎

Portugal

Prague

Riga

Rome

Seoul

Singapore

Stockholm

Stuttgart

Switzerland

Vienna

Vilnius

Page 15: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

OYSTER PERPETUAL EXPLORER II

Page 16: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

FASHION, LIFESTYLE AND MORE

You can fi nd these and other top brands in Karstadt stores in:Berlin: Kurfürstendamm, Schlossstrasse, Charlottenburg, Hermannplatz, Müllerstrasse / Düsseldorf: Schadowstrasse / Frankfurt: Zeil / Hamburg: Mönckebergstrasse / Hanover: Georgstrasse / Leipzig: Petersstrasse / Dresden: Prager Strasse / Cologne: Breite Strasse / Munich: Bahnhofplatz / Nuremberg: An der Lorenzkirche

Page 17: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

Our branches in top central locations in most major German cities provide shoppers with a modern and comfortable environment which makes shopping an experience. Lots of customers are attracted by not only strong brands but also our outstanding advisory service and innovative events.

Enjoy your next shopping spree on a journey of discovery through our Karstadt stores.

Open until 8 p.m.

Page 18: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

CONTRIBUTORS

18

globalblue.com

Katie Byrne

SHOP’s assistant picture

editor Katie Byrne graduated

in contemporary media

practice from the University

of Westminster, specialising

in photography, and has

previously worked in celebrity

news and picture agencies.

Stephen Doig

Stephen Doig, formerly

SHOP’s features editor, is now

men’s style editor and assistant

luxury editor at the Telegraph;

he has also written for Vogue,

GQ and the Financial Times.

His weaknesses include red

wine and good cheese.

Josh Sims

Freelance journalist and

editor Josh Sims contributes to

publications that include the

Financial Times, Independent,

Observer, Wallpaper and

Esquire. His latest book is

Icons of Women’s Style,

published in April 2015.

ILL

US

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: MA

ÏTÉ

FR

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CH

I - F

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RT

Maïté Franchi

Maïté Franchi created this

season’s cover illustration

for SHOP Frankfurt. She

brings a unique approach and

perspective to her work. Her

captivating textured digital

style makes her the perfect

illustrator for this cover,

inspired by our feature on

page 40 about the German

porcelain manufacturers

who are using innovative

techniques to stay on trend.

It shows the contrast between

classic porcelain pieces and

the contemporary designs

of today.

Explore our archive of cover

illustrations at

globalblue.com/covers.

Page 19: SHOP Frankfurt SS16
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20

SHOP FLOOR

E DI TOR I A L

Editor-in-chief

Emma Cheevers

PU BL I SH I NG

Publisher

James Morris

Head of digital

Eamonn Leacy

Digital campaign manager

Iwona Wlodarczyk

Digital data analyst

Dian Liu

Digital marketing assistant

Anastasia Budieva

Product manager

Devesh Sankadecha

Developer

Mohammed Hakki

Digital production manager

Andrew Lugton

Production assistants

Olivia Chou, Sammy Ha

Chief executive officer

Jacques Stern

SHOP is published by Global Blue

Group headquarters

Global Blue SA,Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland

Corporate registration number

[email protected]

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2016 Global Blue

Chinese editor

Yuan Fang

Associate Chinese editor

Junjie Dou

Chinese contributing editor

Qingya He

Chinese editorial assistants

Yangzi Liang, Manqing Li

Chinese translators

Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi

Russian editor

Anastasia Nemchenok

Russian editorial assistant

Karina Starobina

Russian translators

Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov

Arabic editor

Haneen Malaeb

Print

Dane Consultancy

Commercial editor

Ruairidh Pritchard

Commercial artworking assistant

Samantha Junak

AVP business development manager

Patrice Janet

Art director

Fabio Gervasoni

Junior designer

Kiranjeet Kaur

Content corporate production manager

Steve Brown

Corporate production coordinator

Inga Abramian

GL OBA L BLU E GE R M A N Y

Head of commercial Europe/

Latin America

Pier Francesco Nervini

Head of commercial Central Europe

Ronald Christen

Marketing sales manager

Michael Mauerhoff

Marketing specialists

Julia Monod, Alexandra Rudenko

Sales manager

Pino Dufter

Global Blue Germany,Vogelsanger Weg 38, 40470 Düsseldorf, [email protected]

Regional tourist office

Tourismus+Congress,Kaiserstrasse 56,60329 Frankfurt am Main,+49 (0)69 2123 8800,frankfurt-tourismus.de

Deputy editor

Sally McIlhone

Cover illustrator

Maïté Franchi - Folio Art

Contributors

Stephen Doig, Josh Sims

Production editor

Caterina Mazzolai

Assistant production editor

Katie Muxworthy

Features editor

Hannah Lewis

City guide and lifestyle editor

Isabella Redmond Styles

Fashion editor

Ximena Daneri

Fashion coordinator

Fani Mari

Fashion intern

Danielle De Wolfe

News editor

Rebecca Davies

Assistant news editor

Theresa Harold

Chief sub-editor

Hester Lacey

Copy editors

Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien

Picture editor

Kirsty Andrews

Assistant picture editors

Grace Bird, Katie Byrne

Senior picture assistant

Mónica R Goya

Picture assistant

Charlotte Rogers

Artwork editor

Simon Thompson

Artworking assistants

Aaron Carline, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala

Artworking intern

Onur Unaltay

Online managing editor

Kirsty Welsh

Assistant online editor

Marina Nelson

Online writer

Emily Scrivener

Page 21: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

E V E R Y T H I N G T H AT D R I V E S M E N

Welcome to the world of Porsche Design. A world that stays eternally young, fresh, and cool by passionately

driving for innovation. A world where new quality materials, technologies, and fi nest functional elegance blend into

a truly exclusive, iconic contemporary design. Some call it luxury? We call it essentials for a challenging future.

www.porsche-design.com

Frankfurt | Große Bockenheimer Straße 41

Frankfurt Airport | Landside Terminal 1 & Airside Terminal 1

1919 DATETIMER

ALL TITANIUM – The art of reduction.

Perfection in form and function.

Designed in Austria. Swiss Made.

Porsche Design

Page 22: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

22

Above: Villeroy & Boch is among the established porcelain makers gaining new admirers with a diverse range of styles

Features

40 Cover story: In Fine Shape

Germany’s traditional porcelain

manufacturers are going strong, winning

new fans with innovative techniques and

inspired designs, says Josh Sims

46 In Focus: Hugo Boss

This prestigious German brand, known

the world over for its suiting, boasts an

impressive heritage – and its sights remain

firmly fixed on the future, as Stephen

Doig discovers

50 Making The Cut

Wempe is celebrating the launch of its

signature diamond cut. Ruairidh Pritchard

explores the German brand’s sparkling

new addition

Products

28 Check Out

SHOP selects a standout piece from

Frankfurt this season

30 Products

Key looks for the season, from fashion

and footwear to jewellery and accessories

News

36 Shop Window

One store not to be missed in Frankfurt

38 News

Seasonal updates on shops, services and

new products

CONTENTS

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p.40

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CONTENTS

24

Translations

78 Русский Перевод

83 美文翻译

89

Souvenir

90 The essential item to bring home

Experience

56 Sweet Thing

Gourmet ice cream is the taste of summer

in Frankfurt, says Isabella Redmond Styles

Guide

61 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas

of Frankfurt

Essentials

76 How To Shop Tax Free

The simple steps to saving money on

your shopping

Above: Eis Christina’s indulgent natural ice cream

PH

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Page 26: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

FRANKFURTAN DER HAUPTWACHE

Shopping at its best!

Located at the ZEIL, one of

Euro pe’s famous shopping streets,

GALERIA Kaufhof offers you a

full-service package: excellent prod-

ucts, capable staff and diverse

amenities guarantee you an

unforgettable ex perience. From

brand-name fashion items to jewel-

lery, from household goods to

accessories – our fascinating shops

and themed areas provide a

huge variety of international

products and our restaurant

“Leonhard’s” an unique view over

Frankfurt’s skyline.

If you come from a country outside

the EU, please enjoy tax-free

shopping at GALERIA Kaufhof!

We also offer the service City

Refund and pay out all your German

Tax Free Forms.

Please scan the QR-

code with your smart-

phone to get more in-

formation about your

GALERIA store Frank-

furt, an der Hauptwache.

Free WLAN

in our store!

Page 27: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

GALERIA Kaufhof...... makes you fall in love with Germany

galeria-kaufhof.deGALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne

Page 28: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

28 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76

CHECK OUT

HEAD OVER HEELS

Miuccia Prada’s trend-setting footwear and

accessories are must-haves season after season,

and spring/summer 2016 is no exception.

Among the highlights of a collection that

references the 1950s and 1960s to impressive

effect are these covetable suede and metallic

shoes. In a palette of silver, salmon pink and

brown finished with a space-age silver bauble,

the open-toed style – reminiscent of the era of

André Courrèges and Pierre Cardin – has an

elegant low heel that’s perfect for both daytime

and evening. Its quirky embellishment, stripes

and colourful notes are a feature of the entire

spring/summer 2016 womenswear collection,

which offers something for everyone, be it a

small accessory or a full-on glamorous look. fm

Prada shoes, price on request, Prada,

Goethestrasse 9, 60313 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 283469,

prada.com

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 71

Page 29: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

Frankfurt / Zeil 84 and Skyline Plazawww.juweliere-kraemer.de

You will fnd a fne selection of

original watch brands and exquisite

jewellery. Of course, we can advise

you in english and chinese too.

We look forward to your visit.

Welcome to Kraemer!

Page 30: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

30 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76

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5. Versace bag, €2,580,

Versace, Goethestrasse 22,

60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 9139 8699,

versace.com

3. Cartier earrings, price on

request, Cartier, Goethestrasse 11,

60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 133 8660,

cartier.com

4. Swarovski Eclipse necklace, €599,

Swarovski, MyZeil, Zeil 106,

60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2097 8805,

swarovski.com

1. S Max Mara dress, €329,

Max Mara, An der Hauptwache 5,

60313 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 2475 12380, maxmara.com

2. Jimmy Choo Vernie sandals,

€495, Jimmy Choo, Goethestrasse 27,

60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2578 8280,

jimmychoo.com

SLEEK

MONOCHROMEKeep it simple with statement designs in black, white and grey

1

2

3

4

5

Page 31: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

globalblue.com

SHOP | 31P

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5. Diesel jeans, €220, Diesel,

Rathenauplatz 1-3, 60313 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 9288 3160,

diesel.com

3. Louis Vuitton key chain,

from €195, Louis Vuitton,

Goethestrasse 1, 60313 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 5670 02000,

louisvuitton.com

4. Salvatore Ferragamo bag, €1,300,

Salvatore Ferragamo, Goethestrasse 2,

60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 920 0730,

ferragamo.com

1. Barbour International x Triumph

jacket, €379, Anson’s, MyZeil,

Zeil 106, 60313 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 9866 2139, barbour.com

2. Bang & Olufsen BeoSound

Moment sound system,

€2,195, Hif-Profs, Grosse Friedberger

Strasse 23-27, 60313 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 9200 4188, bang-olufsen.com

LAND AND SEA

Match bold blues with earthy browns like a rugged urban explorer

2

1

3 4

5

Page 32: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76

32 | PRODUC TS

5. Porsche Design watch, €3,950, Porsche Design, Grosse Bockenheimer Strasse 41, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2165 7660, porsche-design.com

6. Vertu Aster Yosegi Wood phone,

€8,900, Vertu, Goethestrasse 14, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2972 8097, vertu.com

3. Faber-Castell Stylus pen, €6.95, Faber-Castell, Steinweg 12, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 9002 5978, faber-castell.com

4. Montblanc backpack, €750, Montblanc, Terminal 1, Frankfurt Airport, +49 (0)69 6986 9036, montblanc.com

1. Rimowa Salsa Deluxe cabin

multiwheel case, from €439, Gabler, Töngesgasse 33, 60311 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 281472, rimowa.de

2. Acqua di Parma Colonia

Essenza, 100ml, €163, Albrecht, Grosse Bockenheimer Strasse 37-39, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 287472, acquadiparma.com

THE

MODERN

GENT

Cutting-edge technology and subtle scents are this season’s travel must-haves

1

2

3

5

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Page 33: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

LEADING WOMENSWEAR BRANDS AND COLLECTIONS

FRANKFURT/MAIN ZEIL 100

MONDAY THROUGH THURSDAY 10 AM - 8 PM FRIDAY THROUGH SATURDAY 10 AM - 9 PM

SULZBACH/TAUNUS MAIN-TAUNUS-ZENTRUM

MONDAY THROUGH WEDNESDAY 9.30 AM - 8 PM THURSDAY THROUGH SATURDAY 9.30 AM - 10 PM

Page 34: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

34 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76

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5. Hermès beach towel, from €410,

Hermès, Goethestrasse 25,

60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 298 0283,

hermes.com

6. Kiyoko lip balm, €12.50,

Kauf Dich Glücklich,

Grosse Eschenheimer Strasse 39,

60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2193 7903,

kiyokothebrand.com

3. Jo Malone Orange Blossom

cologne, 100ml, €100, Douglas,

Zeil 98-102, 60313 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 1338 69150, jomalone.com

4. Bulgari Serpenti Forever bag,

€1,980, Bulgari, Goethestrasse 16,

60313 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 913 0530,

bulgari.com

1. Massimo Dutti Tech by Sony

camera with case, €595, Massimo

Dutti, Terminal 1, Frankfurt Airport,

+49 (0)69 6959 5860,

massimodutti.com

2. Orlebar Brown swimsuit, €225,

Fifty Eights, Kronberger Strasse 19,

60323 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 725535,

orlebarbrown.com

SUMMER GLOW

Add vibrancy to your holiday wardrobe with these bold summer essentials

3

42

6

1

5

Page 35: SHOP Frankfurt SS16
Page 36: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

36 | NEWS

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76

SHOP WINDOW

FRANKFURT À LA MODE

August Pfüller has been the fashion destination of choice for those in the know since it opened in 1878. Located on the prestigious Goethestrasse, the boutique offers a carefully curated selection of womenswear, childrenswear and accessories from both emerging talents and international designers

such as Alexander Wang, Stella McCartney and Saint Laurent. With an ever-changing window display of inspiring looks, and an edit of fine fashion guaranteed to satisfy even the most discerning of visitors, this retail haven is well worth a visit. thAugust Pfüller,Goethestrasse 15-17, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 1337 8060,august-pfueller.de

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 71

Page 37: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

B A D E N B A D E N

Page 38: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

38 | NEWS

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76

DISTINCTLY DIFFERENT

Founded by Leonid Sladkevich and Matthias Gruner in 2008, Frankfurt-based fashion label Leonid Matthias has different lines to suit various personalities, all made in its own workshops. Its ‘fashion concept store’ offers a wide range of ready-to-wear for men and women, along with a carefully chosen selection of homeware and accessories; there’s also an open studio where visitors can watch new pieces being created. thLeonid Matthias, Walter-Kolb-Strasse 7, 60594 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 4003 1841, leonidmatthias.com

IN BRIEF

The

StellaSport

spring/summer

2016 collection

for Adidas is a

riot of colour.

The brand’s

playful spirit

is encapsulated

in rainbow

lettering,

tie-dye details

and graphic

rose prints – a

good look on

the street or in

the gym

MAKE A STATEMENT

When it comes to luxury timepieces, quality is key, but rarely do fine Swiss watches make style statements as bold as the one made by the new Hublot Big Bang Jeans Vintage. Swathed in distressed denim, the latest addition to Hublot’s Big Bang series features 36 sparkling diamonds, with 1.80 carats on the bezel alone. Available in either 18-carat rose gold or more casual stainless steel (pictured; €14,400), the Big Bang Jeans Vintage is limited to just 450 pieces, making it not only one of the most distinctive timepieces of the season, but also an exclusive collectors piece. rpHublot, Goethestrasse 4-8, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 1338 5326, hublot.com

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 71

Page 39: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

globalblue.com

BACK TO THE FUTURE

For spring/summer 2016, Dr Hauschka has brought some of its limited editions of the past back into the spotlight – albeit in modern new packaging. Featured in the 2009 Natural Pastel Look collection, this Rouge Powder Duo (€37) is as fresh and light as springtime, with rose tones that give a subtle emphasis to the cheeks. The other revisited products are an eyeshadow trio, eyeliner, lipstick and balancing powder. rdDouglas, Zeil 98-102, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 1338 69150, dr.hauschka.com

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 66

SMALL WONDERS

Discover the work of rising stars at Designe Kleine. In the gallery with a twist, run by Susanne Stahl, designers hire spotlit display boxes in which to showcase their products. Head there for one-of-a-kind handmade gifts, jewellery, accessories and more. To add some theatre, Stahl creates her own products on site, so customers can watch them in the making. There’s also a vending machine, which dispenses small souvenirs, outside the shop for anyone turning up outside business hours. rdDesigne Kleine, Wallstrasse 26, 60594 Frankfurt, +49 (0)177 451 6824, designe-kleine.de

SHOP | 39

HAPPY THOUGHTS

German luxury jeweller Wellendorff is spreading an upbeat message this season. The brand explores different aspects of happiness in Moments of Delight, its most recent collection. Rings are crafted in 18-carat yellow or white gold, and the tactile inner section of the band is easy to turn, encouraging the wearer to play with the mechanism and lose themselves in thought. This mindful concept links to the brand’s previous collection Genuine Delight, and some favourite pieces have been reinterpreted for spring. rdWellendorff, Goethestrasse 4, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 9203 8020, wellendorff.com

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Above: Villeroy & Boch Artesano Original collection /78 83 /93

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It’s not surprising that so many German brands are among those rated most highly by collectors

If getting out the best china for a dinner party can feel like a social pressure even today, imagine the angst of ensuring a good

spread for the Archbishop-Elector of Mainz, Johann Friedrich Karl von Ostein, in the 18th century. This was the man who took his desire for porcelain tableware of the highest standard so seriously that he granted a manufacturer the right to make it in Frankfurt just to ensure a steady supply to his household.

The result was the founding of Höchst Porzellan (now Höchster Porzellan-Manufaktur) in 1746, making it one of Germany’s earliest porcelain manufacturers. It adopted the wheel of Mainz as its trademark, in honour of its sponsor, a symbol that appears on its white-glazed and biscuit-fired porcelain, painted pieces, decorations and, above all, tableware even today. It’s not the only survivor from the maker’s early years; Höchster’s range includes skilful reproductions of some of its most celebrated pieces from the 18th century.

Yet while Höchster may have an obvious presence around Frankfurt, the company is far from alone in porcelain manufacturing in Germany. The country is home to many of the finest porcelain makers in the world, from

Meissen to Nymphenburg, Wagner & Apel to Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur and Lichte. Given that it was in Germany that the secret of how the Chinese made their much-sought-after porcelain was finally discovered in 1708, it’s not surprising that so many German brands are among those rated most highly by collectors.

Jessika Rauch is brand ambassador for Villeroy & Boch, another German porcelain brand. The development of such a strong porcelain industry in the country was, she

Above (from top): a strikingly contemporary design from Höchster; the Frankfurt maker’s Antique Modernity vase

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THE WORLD OF FASHION AND SPORT IN MANNHEIM

+49 (0)621 – 167 22 22 WWW.ENGELHORN.DE

ENGELHORN DESIGN

HIGHLIGHTSEXCLUSIVE FASHION AND ACCESSORIES OF INTERNATIONAL DESIGNERS

AND FASHION L ABELS

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believes, only natural. At a time when the infrastructure to move raw materials long distances wasn’t available, makers had to set up wherever those happened to be, and much of Germany is rich in kaolin, quartz and feldspar: porcelain’s three key ingredients. The abundance of these helped create a quality product, too: ‘the kind of porcelain that your grandmother passes down to you’, says Rauch.

‘Of course, some people will struggle to tell the difference between mass-market tableware and fine porcelain products, much as they would in clothing between one cotton and another,’ she adds. ‘The good porcelain often has a creamier colour to it, is smooth rather than rough on the underside and, if you really know your porcelain, even sounds different. But it really shows its quality in the process of using it. It lasts. It’s an investment.’

She stresses that many of the nation’s smaller makers have struggled financially over recent decades, but that the major players have found success in necessary reinvention. If older

generations have seen high-quality porcelain as aspirational, then younger generations have tended to view it as rather old fashioned, though vintage pieces – decorated with floral motifs, country scenes or gold trim – are currently fashionable in some quarters.

‘The fact is that nobody needs a new set of porcelain tableware every year. Most people no longer want a soup tureen or six kinds of plate. So as a national industry we have to adapt,’ explains Rauch. ‘We have to follow trends – are we eating more pasta? Are more of us living alone? – and provide more contemporary products. We have to be ready for when people

While smaller makers have struggled, the major players have found success in necessary reinvention

44 | F E AT U R E S

Above (from top): crafsmanship in action at Villeroy & Boch; pieces from the brand’s Artesano Original collection

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decide they’re finished with Ikea.’This is why the likes of Villeroy & Boch

increasingly produce more innovative pieces which, for example, blend materials: porcelain with slate, porcelain with wood. It’s why Frankfurt’s Höchster works with the designer Veit Streitenberger – also a Frankfurt resident – to create strikingly modern interpretations of more conservative porcelain forms. The company’s Impressions series, for instance, takes its name literally. A contemporary cubist vase is physically imprinted with the form of a traditional trumpet vase. A conical bowl is transformed with integrated elements from an

SHOP | 45

18th-century flower-relief plate of the kind von Ostein would have been familiar with. Other pieces are more unexpected still: a porcelain letter opener, for example, designed by Mario Effenberger and winner of the Frankfurt Messe Design Plus Award.

In this dynamic market, not every smaller piece has a place. Ornamental figurines, as one might expect given modern home interiors, are now strictly a collectors’ item, or perhaps purchased for a special occasion. Although perhaps it is just a matter of time until those, too, undergo reinvention by one of Germany’s oldest craft industries

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Golden Romance line

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HUGO

BOSS

This prestigious German brand, known the world over for its suiting, boasts an impressive heritage – and its sights remain frmly fxed on the horizons ahead, as Stephen Doig discovers

Hugo Boss’s striking headquarters

in Metzingen are the embodiment

of the brand’s ethos. While its

location adheres to the chocolate-box ideal

of a quintessential German town, with

half-timbered façades and medieval spires,

the brand’s nerve centre is a gleaming glass

and steel structure set among gardens

manicured with exacting precision: a bastion

of stark modernity against tradition. This

description could be applied to the Hugo

Boss label itself, as the brand has become

renowned for its fresh, contemporary style

in a market that hasn’t historically been at

the forefront of the fashion industry. Despite

Karl Lagerfeld’s German origins and the

dominance of sportswear brands Adidas and

Puma, Germany cannot quite match the style

prestige of the UK, France and Italy.

Hugo Boss has always sought to change

that. The brand was launched as a small

clothing company in 1924; its eponymous

founder faced various obstacles, including a

bankruptcy which left the entrepreneur with

only six sewing machines to his name. Against

the odds, this committed businessman went

on to steadily build the brand. Today, just

over 90 years since it was founded, Hugo

Boss has grown into one of the world’s largest

IN FOCUS:

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Previous page: Boss spring/summer 2016/79 84 /88

and most successful fashion brands, with a portfolio encompassing numerous ranges under the Hugo and Boss labels, products ranging from bespoke suiting to fragrances, and an international network of over 1,000 stores.

Though styles have changed over the years and the brand has adapted with signature German pragmatism, it’s been the working wardrobe that has come to define Hugo Boss’s fashion identity. In 1950, the house started creating men’s suiting and developed innovative ways to produce off-the-rack tailored items – a powerful skill in an era where creating a suit of quality was generally a painstaking process.

A real flair for catering to the businessman – and, later, businesswoman – has been an underlying influence on everything Hugo Boss has designed over the years, including its high fashion offerings, and the brand’s universal appeal can be seen in its ability to adapt the Boss signature style to suit multiple markets. Catwalk collections strike a contemporary note with sleek suiting, impeccable tailoring,

narrow cuts and single-breasted shapes. With the founding of the Boss diffusion line in 1970, the label expanded its reach, making its wares available to those who might previously have found the cost of luxury clothing prohibitive. In 1998, the house’s womenswear collection made its debut, boldly addressing the emerging trend for power dressing: shift dresses and elegant, sleek, feminine suiting spoke clearly to a new audience.

Today, the label is more current and dynamic than ever. This is largely thanks to the deft hand of New York-based designer Jason Wu, who has brought the trademark Hugo Boss refinement and sophistication firmly into the modern day. Wu, creative director of womenswear since 2013, has steered the line into a territory that’s both glamorous and directional. A young, contemporary designer renowned for his low-key glamour might seem like an odd fit for a 91-year-old German heritage brand, but he has become a household name. When US First Lady Michelle Obama chose to wear a Jason Wu creation at her husband’s inaugural ball in 2009, she cemented Wu’s reputation as a master of understated

elegance, making him the perfect figurehead for a brand that has spent nine decades perfecting a similar aesthetic.

When approached by Hugo Boss chief brand officer Christoph Auhagen to take on the role, Wu’s first thought was ‘why me?’. ‘It seemed like the oddest match,’ he has said. ‘I

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Above (clockwise from top far lef): Boss spring/summer 2016; one of the brand’s previous womenswear collections; the Hugo Boss racing yacht in action; the brand’s headquarters in Metzingen

thought of Boss as a menswear brand and I wasn’t super-knowledgeable about the women’s side, which is only 15 years old.’ Wu was won over in part by the bold modernity of the Boss headquarters in Metzingen, which he describes as ‘like the set of the movie Gattaca’ – and the deal was sealed. Since joining the label, Wu has already added a sharpness and a sense of cool. His latest collection features ice-white layers and blouses, muted grey and dove-toned dresses, sleek black minimalist gowns and soft yellow racer-back tops and dresses.

If more proof were needed that Hugo Boss is literally going places, in autumn 2015 the label sponsored a branded racing yacht. The boat, which features graphic design by esteemed industrial designer Konstantin Grcic, will take part in the 2016 Vendée Globe yacht race, skippered by record-breaking sailor Alex Thomson. With Wu as creative director, an ever-increasing range of products and stores, and now this new nautical endeavour, it’s tempting to describe Hugo Boss as a brand which is sailing ahead. Trite as this may sound, however, it is nonetheless true – this is a company with its sights set firmly on the horizon

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Wempe is celebrating the launch of its signature diamond cut. Ruairidh Pritchard

explores the German brand’s sparkling new addition

MAKING

THE CUT

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When it comes to classic European timepieces, few brands can match the reputation, variety or quality of

Wempe. The Hamburg-based family company, which offers its own standout designs as well as a multitude of watches from top international brands, has become an authority on all things horological. In recent years, however, Wempe’s jewellery line has also been turning heads, and with good reason.

The By Kim jewellery range has opened a new chapter in the company’s 135-year history. It is named after the brand’s charismatic chief executive officer, Kim-Eva Wempe, great-granddaughter of founder Gerhard Wempe, and the latest collection marks a landmark achievement for the brand, as it launches its very own signature diamond cut.

‘For us as a company, the Wempe-Cut® is a milestone in the development of the jewellery brand,’ explains Anja Heiden, who sits on the Wempe board of directors. ‘The diamond is the most important gemstone for us and with our own cut, we have not only proved our innovative strength and creativity in this field, but have also succeeded in creating

extraordinary added value for our customers.’The development of the cut itself focused

almost entirely on how best to exhibit the quality of the diamonds. All the diamonds are graded with the colour ‘rare white’ or ‘rare white +’ and are classified as either VVS or VS,

Every classic yet contemporary piece by Wempe has been considered down to the very last detail, and this commitment to true excellence shines through

52 | F E AT U R E S

Previous page: Wempe-Cut® diamond design sketch/81 85 /87

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two of the highest degrees of clarity. During the design process, the diamond

specialists at Wempe worked with the company’s master diamond cutters to develop a variety of potential cuts. As Heiden explains, ‘It absolutely had to be a round cut – and it had to

considerably increase the diamond’s brilliance and light reflection. Three prototypes were manufactured, based on our requirements. One fulfilled all of them and, moreover, it looked beautiful. That was the one to become the Wempe-Cut®.’

After each new Wempe-Cut® diamond is crafted, every individual stone is certified by Hoge Raad voor Diamant, the world-renowned certification authority and gemmology institute in Antwerp. During this process, some of the world’s leading diamond experts inspect each stone to determine its cut, colour, clarity and carat – the hallowed four Cs on which the diamond industry is built. All the rough stones are certified by the United Nations Kimberley Process, an international scheme that ensures diamonds are appropriately sourced.

The new cut, which appears for the first time in By Kim’s latest jewellery collection Splendora, features a total of 137 facets – an increase from 57 facets in Wempe’s brilliant-cut gems. The 18-carat white gold setting is

SHOP | 53

Above (clockwise from top lef): Kim-Eva Wempe; the brand’s Frankfurt store; Splendora By Kim ring, featuring the Wempe-Cut® diamond; a pendant from the same collection

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54 | FEATURES

elegant and understated, ensuring the main

focus of the Splendora line is undoubtedly the

Wempe-Cut® diamond. The line comprises

three standout pieces: a ring, earrings and a

pendant. Each features Wempe-Cut® diamonds

of either one, 1.4 or two carats in a four-prong

setting, the interior of which features 16 further

brilliant-cut 0.09-carat diamonds.

Heiden and the designers at Wempe are set

to include the cut across a much wider array of

pieces, including bespoke jewellery for some of

their most discerning clients. ‘Splendora is the

first By Kim line that we will present with the

exclusive Wempe-Cut®,’ Heiden explains, ‘but

it is certainly not the last. Customers may also

have the Wempe-Cut® set in any other setting

of their choice.’

This flexibility and open-mindedness,

and constant consideration of clients’ wishes,

keeps Wempe at the forefront of its field. The

brand builds on its long history by constantly

pushing forward, enthusiastically pursuing

new ideas and new ways to convey its elegant,

luxury aesthetic. From the exquisite Wempe-

Cut® diamonds to the classic yet contemporary

jewellery in which they are set, every piece by

Wempe has been considered down to the last

detail, and this commitment to true excellence

shines through

Above (from top): a selection of diamonds in the Wempe workshop; By Kim Splendora earrings; Wempe-Cut® diamonds

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FOLLOW US AT...

/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu

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Page 56: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

globalblue.com

56 | E X PE R I E NCE

There aren’t many foods that say summer more than ice cream. The refreshing treat has been enjoyed for centuries – it’s said that Alexander the Great enjoyed snow and ice favoured with honey. However, it wasn’t until the late 16th century that sorbets, followed by ice cream as we know it – using milk, cream, butter and eggs – really began to be made.

Today, the best ice cream parlours are not afraid to experiment with unconventional ingredients and unusual favour combinations, alongside classic options such as vanilla, chocolate and strawberry. The quality of the raw ingredients remains paramount, with many of Frankfurt’s ice cream makers using top-quality organic produce, often locally sourced, alongside seasonal fruit. What’s more, many producers are only too happy to cater to diferent tastes and dietary requirements, whether that means gluten-free cones or a vegan chocolate sorbet, meaning that no one has to miss out on a refreshing summertime scoop.

SWEET THINGGourmet ice cream is the flavour of the summer in Frankfurt, as Isabella Redmond Styles explains

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SHOP | 57

E I S C H R I S T I N A

Family-run Eis Christina has been providing Frankfurt with a taste of authentic Italian ice cream for more than 40 years. Everything is made to exacting standards using the finest ingredients – with absolutely no preservatives or artificial colours – including fruit frozen as soon as possible after it is picked to retain all the flavour. As well as the regular menu, the café also serves up extravagant ice cream sundaes or ‘bowls’, lavishly decorated with fruit, nuts and sauces. Look out, too, for the Spaghetti dishes, fashioned out of strands of ice cream topped with indulgent sweet sauces.Eis Christina, Eckenheimer Landstrasse 78, 60318 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 598452, eischristina.deP

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globalblue.com

D U L C E

Run by Frankfurt couple Babs and Matthias Schneider, Dulce is truly a delight for the sweet toothed. The welcoming café is known for its fantastic chocolates, delicious cakes and skilfully made coffee and shakes. However, it’s the ice cream that’s the star of the show during the summer months. The owners have travelled the world in search of the perfect scoop and, as a result, visitors can expect ice cream that’s made according to traditional, artisanal methods using only high-quality natural ingredients. Flavours incorporate Dulce’s delicious chocolate as well as seasonal fruits.Dulce,Schweizer Strasse 43, 60594 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 3470 0131,dulceice.de

59 | E X PE R I E NCE

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B I Z Z I I C E

Bizzi Ice is committed to using only the best organic products. The company favours a traditional, handcrafted approach to making ice cream – no additives are included, and recipes are kept simple to allow the quality of the natural ingredients to shine through. Bizzi Ice works closely with its local suppliers, and uses

organic milk, cream, sugar and eggs for each of its flavours. Expect classics such as vanilla, chocolate and pistachio alongside more adventurous options including almond and cardamom, as well as a highly refreshing pineapple and coriander sorbet. Bizzi Ice,Wallstrasse 26, 60594 Frankfurt, bizzi-ice.com

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L i c h t e n t a l e r S t r a s s e 1 u n d 1 3

B A D E N - B A D E N

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THE GUIDE

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Above: half-timbered buildings in Römerberg, the city hall square, with the spire of the Kaiserdom behind

A Glimpse of Frankfurt

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Frankfurt with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from a fine jewellery store to unmissable multi-brand fashion boutiques. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/frankfurt.

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62 | GUIDE

SHOP HIGHLIGHTS

Villeroy & Boch

Snap up German porcelain

maker Villeroy & Boch’s

high-quality tableware and homeware.

Karstadt,

Zeil 90, 60313 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 929050,

villeroy-boch.com

FEATURED ON PAGE 40

August Pfüller

Find the perfect outfit for the

new season at August Pfüller,

one of the city’s best-loved multi-

brand stores.

August Pfüller,

Goethestrasse 15-17,

60313 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 1337 8060,

august-pfueller.de

FEATURED ON PAGE 36

Designe Kleine

Discover the work of a wide

array of talented independent

local designers at Designe Kleine.

Designe Kleine,

Wallstrasse 26,

60594 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)177 451 6824,

designe-kleine.de

FEATURED ON PAGE 39

Wellendorff

Enjoy the upbeat appeal of

Wellendorff’s Moments of

Delight jewellery collection.

Wellendorff,

Goethestrasse 4,

60313 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 9203 8020,

wellendorff.com

FEATURED ON PAGE 39

FRANKFURT

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Hilton

National Hotel

Colour Hotel

Atlantic Hotel

Savoy Hotel

Roomers Design Hotel

COMMERZBANK

SILVER TOWER

GOETHE HAUS

OLD OPERA

TAUNUSANLAGE

WILLY-BRANDT PLATZ

FRANKFURTMAIN STATION

ALTE OPER

Train Station U-Bahn Hotel Place Of Interest

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SACHSENHÄUSER UFER DEUTSCHHERRNUFER

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The WestinGrand

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Spenderhaus Hotel

Hotel am Dom

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Hotel Fleming Deluxe

Turmhotel

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Villa Orange

ST. PAUL'S CHURCH

RÖMER TOWN HALL

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64 | GUIDE

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

NIDDASTRASSE

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5K APOTHEKE ●

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PARFÜMERIE LEHR ●

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ROSSMANN ●

BEATE UHSE ●APOLLO-OPTIK ●

DER TROCKENRASIERER ●

DAVID NO 10 ●

● C W ENGELS

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Villa Kennedy

AESOP

Naturally minded skincare brand Aesop

recently opened its first Frankfurt flagship.

Each of Aesop’s stores is designed with its

location in mind; the Frankfurt branch fuses

the brand’s signature style with influences

from Germany’s natural landscapes. Shades

of green reflect the country’s forests and

woods, and are complemented by solid

walnut. Visitors can explore the complete

range of Aesop skin, hair and bodycare

products, made with a mix of botanical

ingredients and those crafted in state-of-the-

art laboratories by skincare experts.

Aesop,

Kaiserstrasse 20, 60311 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 9288 2744,

aesop.com

Am Hauptbahnhof, Kaiserstrasse & Rossmarkt

Hotel

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STRUWWELPETER● APOTHEKE

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MAX MARA ●

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EYECATCHER ●SCHUHHAUS PRANGE ●

● FOTO RAHN /LEICA GALERIE

DIE ROSEN APOTHEKE ●

CDS ●

● BREE COLLECTION ● CARHARTT

Shopping Centre/Mall

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● BUCHERER ● DOUGLAS

● SØR HERRENAUSSTATTER● GRÜNE ERDE

● ROECKL● HESS NATUR FASHION

●GUDRUN SJÖDEN● HUNKEMÖLLER

● BETTENRID ● MÄC

● LINUS KONFEKTION● DM

● EHINGER-SCHWARZ● NAVYBOOT

● WMF

BODUM●

KONPLOTT ●

STRAUSS INNOVATION ●BESIER ●

STRUWWELPETER APOTHEKE ●RITUALS ●

MUJI ●L'OCCITANE ●

● AMERICAN APPAREL● KUHN MASSKONFEKTION

REINHARDT ●AESOP ●

● HUNKEMÖLLER

● SINN

● SPORT ARENA● DIRK ROSSMANN

● PLANET SPORTS● GODIVA

● CALIDA● URBAN OUTFITTERS

● FIELMANN● GOLFINO

● TRAVEL & BUSINESS● BETTY BARCLAY

● WELLENSTEYN SHOP● BASLER

VAN LAACK●

ULLA POPKEN ●KOFFER KLEIN ●

AZITA ●

CARPE DIEM ●

ROSSMANN ●

Starbucks

CONRAD

Choosing the right electronic and technology

products can be a bit of a minefield, but

specialist retailer Conrad is known for its

practical solutions. Well equipped to deal

with the needs of both businesses and

individuals, Conrad stocks many premium

technology brands, including Apple,

Microsoft, Philips and Samsung. The

company has stores across Germany,

including one in Frankfurt, and is renowned

for its knowledgeable members of staff, who

will be on hand to help you whether you’re

looking for a new tablet or a power-tool kit.

Conrad,

Zeil 58-64, 60313 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)9604 408789, conrad.com

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 66

Train Station Café Featured In This Issue

P.90

P.68

Page 66: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

66 | GUIDE

Zeil, Neue Kräme, Hasengasse & Braubachstrasse

MÜNZGASSE

BLEICHSTR ASSE

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ADLER APOTHEKE ●LEBKUCHEN SCHMIDT ●

SCHUHHAUS ONKEL JORDAN ●SANDHOF PASSAGE ●

AUGENOPTIK THORMANN ●MORE FOR LESS ●

MAGGI HAUS ●

BIRKENSTOCK ●SWAROVSKI ●

ZWILLING ●WERTH & WERTH ●

● RAILSLIDEICE WATCH● (RUNNING BEAR)● ASCHENPUTTEL● JACK WOLFSKINGEWÜRZE/TEEHAUS● SCHNORR

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● GANNI

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Department Store

SELECTED STORES IN

ZEIL GALERIE:

Go Mobile Samsung

SELECTED STORES IN MYZEIL:

Accessorize

Adidas Neo Anlissa Anson’s Bathelt Bench Biba Bijou Brigitte Bose Comma Crocs Ecco Elbenwald

Elleez El Rayyan G-Star G-Star Raw Gabor Gant Intertoys Gravis Guess Kpochs Hollister Immergrün Intertoys Kamera Kult Lego Le Petit - Palais

Lloyd Nanu Nana New Era New York Elleez Nugloss O2 Odlo One Green ElephantParfümerie Albrecht Pandora Passionata Peak Performance Pepe Jeans Princesse Tam Tam Promod

Reno Replay Rewe Run² Runners Point S Oliver Sacha Saturn Scout 4 You Sidestep Skagen Superdry The North Face The Sting Vero Moda Vodafone WMF

Shopping Centre/Mall

P.65

P.39

Page 67: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

Frankfurt / Zeil 81 – Tel. +4969281655 www.pletzsch.de

Constellation

Welcome to Pletzsch,

one of Germany`s most traditional jewelers.

We look forward to your visit!

SINCE 1897

You will fnd an

overwhelming selection of

luxury watch brands and

exquisite jewellery.

Mrs. Tao is glad to be at

your disposal at any time.

Page 68: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

68 | GUIDE

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

Berliner Strasse & Römerberg

MÜNZGASSE

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BUCHERER

Bucherer has been known for excellence since

it opened its first watch and jewellery

boutique in Lucerne in 1888, and today it has

stores across the globe. Watch lovers will be

interested by the company’s long partnership

with Rolex, thanks to which it offers an

unrivalled selection of the brand’s watches.

Bucherer’s own range of fine jewellery is also

definitely not to be missed. Look out for the

exquisite La Cerise collection, which includes

these ultra-feminine earrings with their

intricate decoration of diamonds and

tourmalines.

Bucherer,

Kaiserstrasse 1, 60311 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 138820,

bucherer.com

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 65

Place Of Interest

Page 69: SHOP Frankfurt SS16
Page 70: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

70 | GUIDE

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

R AHMHOFSTR ASSE

STEINWEG

GROSSE BOCKENHEIMER STR. K ALBÄCHER GASSE

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● OLYMP● LINGERIE LEMLER● DAVIDOFF OF GENEVA● BODY SHOP● APOTHEKE AN DER HAUPTWACHE● MEPHISTO● WMF

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K ALBÄCHER GASSE

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MARC CAIN ●

Featured In This Issue

Grosse Bockenheimer Strasse & Biebergasse

Börsenstrasse, Rathenauplatz & Schillerstrasse

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Page 71: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

SHOP | 71

R AHMHOFSTR ASSE

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BAILLY DIEHL

Bailly Diehl has seven stores in and around

Frankfurt, and is known for its edit of

high-quality on-trend clothing for men and

women. Thanks to the vision of owner

Michael Bailly, the boutiques offer brands

such as M Missoni, Tagliatore and Woolrich,

alongside the house’s own line. This season

look out for luxe leather pieces by in-demand

German label Steven-K.

Bailly Diehl,

Steinweg 8, 60313 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 282732,

bailly-diehl.de

P.36

P.39

P.38

P.28

Page 72: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

72 | GUIDE

DAY TRIP

WERTHEIM VILLAGE

Wertheim Village, just 50

minutes from Frankfurt city

centre, is perfectly located

for locals and international

visitors alike. The Village’s

design reflects its tranquil

surroundings, with

traditional scallop-tiled

roofing and turrets that echo

nearby vineyard-clad hills

and local villages. The

Village plays host to more

than 110 designer boutiques

from both German and

international labels, all of

which offer up to 60%

savings on normal retail

prices.

Wertheim Village,

Almosenberg,

97887 Wertheim,

+49 (0)9342 919 9100,

wertheimvillage.com,

chicoutletshopping.com

A3

A3

A3

FRANKFURT CENTRAL STATION

WERTHEIM TOWNSTATION

FRANKFURT

WertheimVillage

HOW TO GET THERE

By Car

From Frankfurt head to

Würzberg on the A3. Take exit

66 signposted Wertheim/

Lengfurt. The drive takes

approximately 50 minutes from

Frankfurt city centre.

By Train

Regular trains run to

Wertheim town from Frankfurt’s

central station, Nuremberg

and Würzberg. Then take the

free shuttle bus to Wertheim

Village from Monday

to Saturday. Collect your ticket

from the tourist information

office in Wertheim town.

By Shopping Express

The Shopping Express®

luxury coach service takes

visitors from Frankfurt to

Wertheim Village and back,

departing from the city’s main

train station, 20B, bus stops 7-9,

from Monday to Saturday. For

further information and to book,

visit chicoutletshopping.com.

OPENING TIMES

Monday-Saturday: 10am-8pm

Sundays and public holidays: closed

For special opening times please visit

the website

Train Station Outlet Village

Page 73: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

SHOP | 73

DON’T MISS…

FIVE-STAR SERVICES

The village offers a range of VIP services including:

• Free Wi-Fi

• Free parking

• A personal shopper (on request)

• Tourist information

• A children’s playground

SHOPPING PACKAGES

Various packages are available at the Village. Packages can be

booked via the Village’s website and services can include:

• Return tickets from central Frankfurt to the village on the Shopping

Express® luxury coach

• A €25 Wertheim Village Shopping Card to be spent at a boutique

of your choice at the Village

• An exclusive gift

• Lunch with small soft drink at La Piazza restaurant at the Village

MY PERFECT DAY

XIMENA DANERI ,SHOP’S FASHION EDITOR, DESCRIBES HER PERFECT DAY AT WERTHEIM VILLAGE

10am

Start your day at German

label Drykorn. The brand is

known for setting the trends;

expect bright colours, bold

prints and a finish of the

highest quality.

11am

Lagerfeld’s boutique

offers the complete ready-to-

wear men’s collection and

range of accessories, all

infused with Karl Lagerfeld’s

signature style.

1pm

Stop for lunch at Prime.

The restaurant offers a range

of high-quality dishes

including burgers, fresh salads

and daily specials, served in an

urban-chic environment.

3pm

Steiff’s trademark ear

button makes its high-quality

teddy bears instantly

recognisable. The range also

includes dogs, cats and pigs.

6pm

End your day by

admiring the craftsmanship

displayed in Bally’s exquisite

leather goods collection.

Pieces offer the highest

quality as well as

contemporary styling.

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74 | GUIDE

DAY TRIP

OUTLETCITY METZINGEN

Outletcity Metzingen is one of Europe’s most popular outlet centres. With over 70 top international brands available at reductions of up to 70%, the stylish centre attracts 3.5 million visitors per year.

Outletcity Metzingen, Reutlinger Strasse 63, 72555 Metzingen, +49 (0)7123 925326, outletcity.com

PERFECT DAY

10am

Start your day perusing

the sportswear collection on

offer at Peak Performance;

the label is known for

combining functionality and

style.

12pm

Take a break at the

Keim bakery to enjoy coffee

and cake or a freshly made

sandwich.

2pm

Hugo Boss collections

strike the perfect balance

between fashion and function.

4pm

Diane von

Furstenberg produces pieces

that radiate elegance –

the printed wrap dress is a

wardrobe classic.

6pm

End your trip at

Samsonite. This esteemed

luggage manufacturer is known

for top-quality, durable and

surprisingly lightweight

suitcases.

OPENING TIMES

Monday-Saturday: 10am-8pm

Saturday: 9am-8pm (Hugo Boss: 8am-8pm)

FRANKFURT

OutletcityMetzingen

STUTTGART

A5

A5

A5

A8

A8

HOW TO GET THERE

By Car

Enter Reutlinger Strasse 63, 72555 Metzingen on

your satellite navigation system. Take the A5 out of Frankfurt

before joining the A8 to Metzingen. Take the exit toward

Metzingen (B312) and take the L378A to Reutlinger Strasse.

Outletcity Metzingen is clearly signposted when you arrive in

the town.

Outlet Village

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SHOP | 75

HOW TO GET THERE

By Train

Trains run from Saarbrücken to Zweibrücken station.

Visitors can then catch a bus to The Style Outlets.

By Bus

Buses run from Zweibrücken to The Style Outlets every

hour from Monday to Saturday.

By Car

From Frankfurt, take the A8 motorway and then exit 34,

which is signposted to the airport. The journey takes around

90 minutes.

ZWEIBRÜCKEN THE STYLE OUTLETS

Zweibrücken The Style Outlets is Germany’s largest outlet centre, with over 130 brands available at discounts of up to 70%. With free Wi-Fi, free parking and delicious restaurants and cafés, it’s the perfect place for a day trip.

Zweibrücken

The Style Outlets, Londoner Bogen 10-90, 66842 Zweibrücken, +49 (0)6332 99390, thestyleoutlets.com

OPENING TIMES

Monday-Saturday: 10am-7pm

Sundays and public holidays: closed

PERFECT DAY

10am

Admire the high quality

and sophisticated

craftsmanship displayed by

Italian label Cerruti.

12pm

Enjoy a traditional

German meal at La Place

restaurant.

2pm

Petit Bateau’s

childrenswear collections are

sure to brighten up your

afternoon with their whimsical

designs and youthful take

on French fashion.

3pm

Villeroy & Boch is the

perfect place to visit if you’re

seeking elegant homeware.

Opt for the Classica range

for timeless tableware.

5pm

End your day at footwear

boutique Peter Kaiser.

Expect a diverse collection

that includes fine materials

such as high-quality leather,

soft suede and the most

prestigious fabrics.

A8

A8

A8

A8

A8

FRANKFURT

ZweibrückenThe Style Outlets

globalblue.com

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76

WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD,SHOP TAX FREE

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

Spend a minimum of €25 and save up to 14.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

[email protected]+421 232 111 111

Refund Ofce Details

Frankfurt Airport: Terminal 1, Level 2, Hall B, Landside Terminal 1, Level 2, Hall B, afer security control Terminal 2, Level 3, Hall D, Landside Terminal 2, Level 3, Hall D, afer security control Terminal 2, Level 3, Hall A, afer security control

When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces.

1. Shop 2. Claim

83 /

86

86 /

Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

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TRANSLATIONS

40: In Fine Shape

Голубая Мечта

Немецкие производители традиционного фарфора собираются с силами, завоевывая новых поклонников с помощью инновационных технологий и гениального дизайна, – рассказывает Джош Симс

Многие из нас до сих пор испытывают волнение, выставляя на стол сервиз перед очередными гостями, представьте же переживания тех, чьим гостем в далеком 18 веке был Иоганн Фридрих Карл фон Оштайн, архиепископ и курфюрст Майнца. Этот человек настолько серьезно был увлечен мечтами о качественном фарфоре, что решил основать производство прямо во Франкфурте, дабы обеспечить свою семью бесперебойным снабжением.

В результате в 1746 была основана фабрика Höchst Porzellan (ныне – Höchster Porzellan-Manufaktur), одна из самых первых в Германии. Логотипом нового предприятия стало колесо, изображенное на гербе города Майнца. Этот символ до сих пор размещен на всей продукции компании, включая глазурованные и неглазурованные керамические изделия, художественно-декоративные изделия и, конечно, фарфоровую посуду. Помимо всего прочего, коллекции Höchster включают искусные репродукции наиболее знаменитых произведений, выпускавшихся фабрикой с начала 18 века.

Популярность Höchster выходит далеко за рамки Франкфурта, однако компания отнюдь не одинока в своей индустрии. В Германии насчитывает немало всемирно известных производителей фарфора: от Meissen и Nymphenburg до Wagner & Apel, Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur и Lichte. Учитывая тот факт, что именно в Германии в 1708 году был раскрыт секрет изготовления китайского фарфора, неудивительно, что

немецкие компании считаются одними из лидеров в этой области.

Джессика Раух – амбассадор Villeroy & Boch, еще одного немецкого производителя фарфора. Она полагает, что развитие столь сильной индустрии керамических изделий было вполне естественно. В те времена, когда инфраструктура не позволяла осуществлять доставку сырья на отдаленные расстояния, производители были вынуждены открывать производства прямо на месте его добычи. Так случилось, что территория Германии имеет богатые залежи каолина, кварца и полевого шпата – трех основных компонентов фарфора. Изобилие материала также помогло добиться высокого качества продукции: «такой фарфор обычно переходит по наследству от бабушек к внукам», – говорит Раух.

«Конечно, для многих сложно понять разницу между настоящим фарфором и

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД

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продукцией массового производства, также как не просто отличить одежду по качеству хлопка, – добавляет она. – Качественный фарфор всегда имеет легкий кремовый оттенок, он более гладкий на оборотной стороне и даже звучит слегка иначе. Но главное отличие проявится лишь при использовании. Настоящий фарфор имеет неограниченный срок службы. Это своего рода инвестиция».

Она подчеркивает, что последние десятилетия многие мелкие производители испытывают финансовые сложности, в то время как крупные компании смогли приспособиться благодаря внедрению новаторских идей. Но если для старшего поколения качественный сервиз служит показателем крепких семейных традиций, то для современной молодежи это очередная старомодная декорация, за исключением разве что винтажных приборов, украшенных цветочными мотивами, деревенскими пейзажами или золотой каймой.

«Дело в том, что никто не хочет покупать новый сервиз каждый год. Большинству людей не требуется супница или шесть видов тарелок. Поэтому нам как индустрии приходится адаптироваться, – поясняет Раух, – нам нужно следить за новыми трендами. Популярно ли сейчас спагетти? Много ли людей живет в одиночестве? Отвечая на эти вопросы, мы меняем нашу стратегию. Нам нужно быть готовыми к тому моменту, когда людям наконец надоест Ikea».

Наверное, поэтому бренды вроде Villeroy & Boch увеличили выпуск инновационной продукции, например, из смешанных материалов: фарфор со сланцем или фарфор с деревом. В свою очередь франкфуртская мануфактура Höchster начала сотрудничество с немецким дизайнером Вайтом Штрайтенбергером, который создает для компании поразительные современные интерпретации традиционного фарфора. Так, в коллекцию вошла современная кубистская ваза из серии Impressions, которая объединяется в

одно целое с традиционной вазой округлой формы, а также чаша конической формы с цветочными узорами 18 века, с которыми мог быть знаком фон Оштайн. Среди других экземпляров встречаются весьма необычные, к примеру, созданный Марио Эффенбергером керамический нож для открытия писем, получивший награду Frankfurt Messe Design Plus Award.

В условиях динамичного рынка не каждое изделие одинаково востребовано. Декоративные фигурки, которые обычно украшают наши серванты, в последнее время стали в основном уделом коллекционеров и случайных покупателей. Хотя, кто знает, возможно, судьба и этих изделий скоро изменится благодаря очередной инновации талантливых немецких дизайнеров.

46: In Focus: Hugo Boss

Второй дом

Немецкий модный дом Hugo Boss, костюмы которого известны на весь мир, бережно хранит свою впечатляющую историю и традиции, но при этом устремлен в будущее, – рассказывает Стивен Дойг

Стильная штаб-квартира Hugo Boss в Метцингене полностью отражает характер этого бренда. Она находится в идиллическом немецком городе, полном традиционных бревенчатых фасадов и средневековых шпилей. Однако само здание представляет собой современную конструкцию из стекла и стали, окруженную тщательно ухоженными садами. Это настоящий бастион современности на фоне традиции. То же самое можно сказать и о бренде Hugo Boss: он завоевал репутацию благодаря актуальному свежему подходу в той сфере, где Германия никогда не была в авангарде. Несмотря на немецкое происхождение Карла Лагерфельда и бесспорное господство спортивных брендов Adidas и Puma, эта страна немногое может противопоставить модному влиянию Англии, Франции и Италии. Hugo Boss

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всегда стремился изменить эту ситуацию. История бренда началась в 1924 году

с небольшого ателье. Перед основателем компании то и дело возникали самые разные препятствия. В его истории было даже банкротство, после которого все, что у него оставалось, – всего лишь шесть швейных машин. Но предприниматель был предан своему делу и, преодолевая сложности, упорно продолжал развивать бизнес. Спустя 90 лет со дня основания Hugo Boss стал одним из самых значительных и успешных модных брендов в мире. Под лейблами Hugo и Boss выпускаются многочисленные серии, возможности варьируются от сшитых на заказ костюмов до парфюмов, и в разных странах работает более 1000 магазинов.

С годами фасоны поменялись, и знаменитый немецкий прагматизм помогает модному дому адаптироваться к переменам. Модную идентичность Hugo Boss определил деловой гардероб. В 1950-е компания начала выпускать мужские костюмы и прорабатывать технологичные подходы к

производству готовой одежды. Это стало важным преимуществом в эпоху, когда работа над качественным костюмом была длительной и кропотливой.

Способность угадывать потребности бизнесменов (а позднее и женщин-предпринимателей) стала лейтмотивом всего, что создает Hugo Boss на протяжении многих лет, включая высокую моду. Истоки всеобщего внимания к бренду можно усмотреть в умении применять особый стиль Boss к разнообразным условиям на рынке. Коллекции всегда выглядят актуальными благодаря детально проработанным костюмам, удачным фасонам, точному крою и однобортными силуэтам.

Основав диффузную линию Boss в 1970 году, компания расширила свое присутствие: эта одежда стала более доступной для тех, кто раньше не мог ее себе позволить. В 1998 состоялся дебют женской коллекции, в которой прослеживался ориентир на энергичный стиль – тренд нового времени: лаконичные свободные

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OT

O: B

OS

S

платья и элегантные, женственные костюмы были адресованы аудитории нового типа.

В наши дни Hugo Boss стремится к трендовому и динамичному образу более, чем когда-либо раньше. Это происходит с легкой руки нью-йоркского дизайнера Джейсона Ву, который соединил фирменную вневременную изысканность Hugo Boss с современностью. Джейсон Ву возглавляет женское направление с 2013 года. Молодой дизайнер, сторонник актуальной сдержанности, – подобный выбор может показаться неочевидным для немецкого бренда с большой традицией. Но именно он сумел заострить женскую коллекцию и органично вписаться в жизнь модного дома.

В 2009 году первая леди США Мишель Обама выбрала творение Джейсона Ву для инаугурационного бала своего мужа. Тем самым, она подтвердила репутацию Ву как мастера сдержанной элегантности. На протяжении девяти десятилетий Hugo Boss совершенствовался в этой эстетике, и фигура Ву не могла остаться незамеченной.

Когда директор по брендам Hugo Boss, Кристоф Аухаген, обратился к нему с предложением занять пост в компании, первой мыслью Ву стал вопрос «почему я?»: «Выбор показался мне очень странным, – поделился он. – Я считал Boss брендом мужской одежды и не был осведомлен о женской линии, которой всего 15 лет». Дизайнера впечатлил современный дух штаб-квартиры Boss в Метцингене, которую он назвал «похожей на декорации к фильму «Гаттака». И сделка состоялась. С момента присоединения к команде Ву уже успел заострить стиль и сделать его более точным. В его новую коллекцию вошли белоснежные блузы, платья приглушенного серого и голубого оттенков, черные минималистские комплекты и мягкие желтые топы и платья с открытыми лопатками.

Осенью 2015 года Hugo Boss спонсировал фирменную гоночную яхту. Ее оформлением занимался уважаемый промышленный дизайнер Константин Грчич. В 2016 году эта лодка под управлением рекордсмена Алекса Томсона будет участвовать в парусной гонке Vendée Globe. Постоянно растущий ассортимент и сеть бутиков, Ву на посту креативного директора, а теперь еще и морская навигация – очень соблазнительно назвать Hugo Boss большим кораблем с большим плаванием впереди. Пусть это звучит неоригинально, но так и есть: перед этим модным домом открыты все горизонты.

50: Making The Cut

Новая грань

Руайрид Притчард рассказывает о фирменной огранке бриллиантов Wempe, премьера которой состоялась в новой ювелирной коллекции бренда

Семейная компания Wempe, основанная в Гамбурге, на протяжении многих лет удерживает лидерские позиции в часовом деле. Ее предложения включает как часы собственной разработки, так и модели иностранных брендов. Умело сочетая репутацию, качество и разнообразие, Wempe сохраняет статус непререкаемого

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авторитета, когда речь идет о часах. При этом в последние годы все чаще обращает на себя внимание и ювелирная линия этого бренда, и на то есть веские причины.

С ювелирной серии By Kim началась новая глава в 135-летней истории Wempe. Она получила свое названа в честь харизматичного исполнительного директора компании Ким-Евы Вемпе, праправнучки основателя Герхарда Вемпе. Новая коллекция Splendora в этой серии ознаменовала важный момент в истории бренда: Wempe представляет собственную бриллиантовую огранку.

«Для нас как для компании Wempe-Cut® – это веха в развитии ювелирного направления, – объясняет Ана Хайден, член совета директоров Wempe. – Алмаз – самый важный для нас камень. А благодаря собственной огранке, мы не только демонстрируем творческий подход и созидательную силу в своей сфере, но и предлагаем необыкновенную дополнительную ценность нашим клиентам».

Все алмазы, с которыми работает этот ювелирный дом, относятся к группам rare white и rare white+ по цвету, а также соответствуют самым высоким степеням чистоты VVS и VS. Поэтому разрабатывая новую огранку, Wempe стремится продемонстрировать высокое качество драгоценного камня.

Варианты прорабатывали лучшие эксперты по бриллиантам и огранщики из мастерских Wempe. «Со всей определенностью огранке нужно было придать круглую форму. Она должна была существенно улучшить естественный блеск алмаза и игру света. В соответствии с этими требованиями были созданы три прототипа. И один из них удовлетворял сразу всем задачам, более того, он чудесно смотрелся. Он и стал Wempe-Cut®», – комментирует Хайден.

После обработки каждый бриллиант с огранкой Wempe-Cut® проходит обязательную сертификацию геммологического института Hoge Raad voor Diamant в Антверпене, чья экспертиза признана во всем мире. В

рамках сертификации специалисты мирового уровня исследуют каждый камень в лаборатории и подтверждают его огранку, цвет, чистоту и каратность – главные показатели в бриллиантовой индустрии. Необработанные алмазы также проходят сертификацию по специальной международной системе United Nations Kimberley Process, которая подтверждает правильное происхождение камней.

Wempe-Cut® подразумевает 137 граней, что существенно больше традиционных 57, применяемых к драгоценным камням Wempe. Коллекция Splendora удостоилась чести впервые представить новую огранку аудитории. Оправа из белого золота 750 пробы выглядит спокойно и лаконично, и это еще раз подтверждает, что в центре внимания компании теперь бриллиант Wempe-Cut®. Коллекцию образует комплект из кольца, серег и подвески. Акцентом каждого предмета стал бриллиант Wempe-Cut® одного, 1,4 или двух карат. Во внутреннюю часть оправы с четырьмя зубцами дополнительно встроено 16 ограненных бриллиантов 0,09 карат.

Хайден и дизайнеры Wempe готовятся использовать бриллианты с фирменной огранкой и в других украшениях, в том числе – в выполненных на заказ для самых взыскательных клиентов. «Splendora – это первая линия By Kim с эксклюзивной огранкой Wempe-Cut®, – объясняет Хайден. – И конечно, не последняя. Кроме того, заказчики смогут выбирать и другую оправу для Wempe-Cut® на свой вкус».

Гибкость, открытость и пристальное внимание к пожеланиям клиентов – вот что удерживает Wempe на лидерских позициях. Опираясь на богатую историю, этот бренд неуклонно двигается вперед. Он всегда с энтузиазмом приветствует новые идеи и возможности транслировать свою элегантную эстетику. Бриллианты с оригинальной огранкой Wempe-Cut®, классические, но современные украшения, – Wempe прорабатывает все до мельчайших деталей. И эта преданность своему мастерству освещает каждое творение бренда.

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美文翻译

40: In Fine Shape

瓷之韵

德国的传统瓷器制造商势头强劲,以创新技术和新

颖设计俘获众多拥趸。Josh Sims带您深入了解

若说时至今日为宴请宾客而寻找上好的瓷器会让你

徒生压力,那就更不要提在十八世纪为美因茨大主

教兼选帝侯Johann Friedrich Karl von Ostein准

Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира.Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

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76: When You Shop The World,

Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру,

совершайте их с Tax Free

PH

OT

O: V

ILL

ER

OY

& B

OC

H A

G

备一场完美宴会该有多焦头烂额了。这位大主教对

陶瓷餐具的要求极其严苛,甚至特批一家制造商在

法兰克福进行生产,就为确保家中能有源源不断的

优质瓷器。

Höchst Porzellan(现名:Höchster

Porzellan-Manufaktur)便于1746年应运而生,如

今它已成为德国历史最悠久的瓷器制造商之一。为

了向赞助者致敬,该品牌在其商标设计中采用了美

因茨轮元素,今时今日其制造的白釉素烧瓷器、上

釉陶瓷、陶瓷装饰品和餐具上都会出现这个标志。

美因茨轮仅是品牌创建以来流传至今的众多特色之

一,Höchster的瓷器系列还包括若干十八世纪经典

陶瓷的复制品。

Höchster在法兰克福一带声名显赫,然

而与Höchster不相上下的瓷器翘楚在德国比

比皆是。德国拥有众多享誉全球的高档瓷器制

造商,Meissen、Nymphenburg、Wagner &

Apel、Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur、Lichte

等诸多品牌不胜枚举。德国人早在1708年就掌握了

如何制造紧俏的中国陶瓷,无怪乎有这么多德国陶

瓷品牌让收藏家赞不绝口。

Jessika Rauch是德国瓷器品牌Villeroy &

Boch的品牌大使。在她看来,德国的陶瓷产业发展

如此蓬勃再正常不过了。彼时的陶瓷制造商缺少长

途运输原材料的设备,只能就地建厂开工。此外,德

国的大部分地区高岭土、石英和长石资源丰富,这

是瓷器制造最关键的三大原材料,因而德国出产的

Page 84: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

84

globalblue.com

46: In Focus: Hugo Boss

聚焦:Hugo Boss

这个尊贵的德国品牌,以制造西服享誉全球,在

传承光辉历史的同时——仍将视野牢牢聚焦于未

来,Stephen Doig报道

Hugo Boss的总部位于麦琴根,这座夺人眼球的建

筑是品牌精神的体现。其设计理念是装在巧克力盒

里浓缩的典型德国小镇,有着半木结构外墙和中世

陶瓷也异常精美坚固,“就像祖母传给你的瓷器那

样,”Rauch说道。

“当然,有些人会看不出批量生产的餐具和精

美瓷器之间的差别,就像他们也不大看得出一种棉

料和另一种棉料的差别,”Rauch补充道。“上等瓷

器常带有奶油般的色泽,底部细腻而绝不粗糙。如

果你真的了解瓷器,就会知道不同的瓷器甚至发出

的声响也不一样。但在使用过程中,你才会真切感

受到瓷器的质量。上等瓷器经久耐用,无异于一笔

投资。”

她强调,近几十年来,德国许多小型瓷器制造

商财务危机重重,但大型制造商却通过必要的转型

取得了成功。高品质的瓷器颇受老一代人的青睐,

但在年轻人眼里却可能落伍过时,不过那些饰有花

朵图案、乡村风景或金边的古董却在某些地区风靡

一时。

“现实情况是,没有人会每年换一套新的陶

瓷餐具。现在大多数人不再需要大盖碗或六件套

餐盘。所以作为全国性的产业,我们需要顺势而

为,”Rauch解释道。“人们现在是不是吃更多的意大

利面?是不是越来越多的人独自生活?我们必须顺

应这些潮流,生产更现代化的产品。等人们逛腻了宜

家,我们就必须做好准备。”

这就是为什么Villeroy & Boch等品牌生产

越来越多的创新型瓷器,例如陶瓷与板岩、陶瓷

与木头的混合型瓷器。这也就是为什么法兰克福

的Höchster与同样居住在法兰克福的设计师Veit

Streitenberger合作,为传统的陶瓷赋予截然不同

的现代理念。Höchster以传统的小号形花瓶重新诠

释现代的立体派花瓶,锥形碗借鉴了18世纪花朵浮

雕餐盘的诸多元素,这种浮雕餐盘美因茨大主教可

能再熟悉不过了。其他的瓷器作品更加出人意料:例

如Mario Efenberger操刀设计并荣获Frankfurt

Messe Design Plus Award奖项的陶瓷开信刀。

在这个生机勃勃的市场,并不是每一样小玩意

儿都能占有一席之地。众所周知,随着家庭装潢越来

越现代化,小型的装饰雕像已完全属于收藏品或仅

在特殊情况下才会购买的物件。过不了多久,古老的

德国手工业一定也会让这些商品重获新生。

纪尖顶,品牌的神经中枢则位于以严格标准修剪的

花园内,是一栋以反光玻璃和钢结构打造的建筑:

一座以鲜明现代性对抗传统的堡垒。这句描述同样

适用于Hugo Boss品牌本身,因其以新鲜、摩登的设

计,在一片历史上从未处于时尚前沿的市场上打开

局面而闻名。即便卡尔·拉格菲尔德来自德国,领先

运动服装品牌如阿迪达斯和彪马源于德国,德国在

时尚产业完全不能与英国、法国和意大利匹敌。

Hugo Boss一直试图改变这种状况。品牌于

1924年成立时只是一间小服装公司;其同名创始

人面临重重障碍,包括经历了一场名下只留下六台

缝纫机的破产。这位决心如铁的商人克服万难,稳

步扎实地建立自己的品牌。今日,在成立仅仅90年

后,Hugo Boss已发展为全球规模最大、最成功的

时尚品牌之一,在Hugo与Boss品牌旗下,拥有数条

产品系列,经营范围从定制西服到香氛无所不包,

并在世界各地拥有超过1000家门店网络。

虽然在过去的岁月中风格已有所改变,品牌也

适应了德国特色的实用主义,职场衣橱的美誉最终

成就了Hugo Boss的时尚身份。在1950年,品牌开

始推出男装西服,并开发出可大批量生产成衣的创

新工艺——在那个制作优质西服需要痛苦漫长过程

的年代,堪称极具影响力的技术。

品牌拥有取悦男性商务人士的天分——而后,

就是女性商务人士——这对于Hugo Boss多年来

的设计有着根深蒂固的潜在影响,包括其高级时装

线,品牌的普遍吸引力从其以Boss招牌款式迎合不

同市场的能力中可见一斑。品牌的走秀系列洋溢着

摩登的调子,包括时髦的西服、无可匹敌的剪裁、窄

身廓形与单排扣款式。当Boss副线系列在1970年推

出时,品牌继续扩大其覆盖面,让那些之前被奢侈品

高昂售价挡在门外的顾客也成为受众。1998年,品

牌的女装系列首次亮相,大胆直击气场着装的新趋

势:通勤连衣裙与优雅、时尚、女性化的西服套装,

响应这批新受众的需求。

如今,品牌相较以往更为入时与动感。这在很

大程度上归功于纽约设计师吴季刚(Jason Wu),

他以当代手法完整诠释了Hugo Boss品牌的精致细

腻。吴季刚自2013年起担任女装创意总监起,将这

条产品线带往清晰明确的时髦新方向。一位以低调

奢华设计著称的、年轻现代的设计师,对这个91岁

的德国传统品牌而言或许有些奇怪,但他早已成为

家喻户晓的名字。2009年,当美国第一夫人米歇尔·

奥巴马选择穿着吴季刚的设计参加丈夫的就职舞

会,她再次巩固了吴季刚作为低调优雅大师的美誉,

使其成为这个以九十年时间塑造相近美学理念之品

牌的完美舵手。

当被Hugo Boss的首席品牌官Christoph

Auhagen接洽并邀请其担任该职位时,吴季刚的

第一个念头是“为什么是我?”。“这看似是最怪异

Page 85: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

85

的组合,”他说。“我一直以为Boss只是一个男装品

牌,对于只有15年历史的女装系列并不熟悉。” 吴

季刚被打动的部分原因是Boss麦琴根总部令人动

容的摩登建筑,他将其描述为“《千钧一发》电影场

景”—— 于是他与品牌达成了共识。自加入品牌旗

下,吴季刚为其增添了几分犀利与酷感。他带来的最

新系列,包括冰白色层叠褶皱与衬衣、暗灰色与鸽子

色连衣裙、时髦黑色极简礼服与柔软的黄色工字背

上衣与连衣裙。

还有更多证据能展现Hugo Boss的宏图未

来。在2015年秋天品牌冠名赞助了一艘竞赛帆

船。这艘船上的图案,由备受尊崇的工业设计大

师Konstantin Grcic设计,将会参加2016年的

Vendée Globe帆船赛,由屡破纪录的水手Alex

Thomson驾驶。在吴季刚担任创意总监后,Hugo

Boss的产品系列与门店数量都不断扩张,如今加上

对航海事业的新热情,Hugo Boss就如同扬帆远

航的旗舰。虽然听上去有些陈词滥调,但依然千真

万确——这是一间将目光牢牢聚焦于远方地平线

的公司。

吸引着像他一样的其他人来到柏林;许多世界

上最激动人心的时尚设计,也正是因此才得以诞

生。

50: Making The Cut

完美切割

Wempe发布了独一无二的钻石切工术。Ruairidh

Pritchard带您深入了解这家德国品牌的最新亮点

说到经典欧洲时计,少有品牌能在声望、种类和质量

上与Wempe相较。这家扎根于汉堡的家族企业如今

已成为钟表界之权威,不仅经营自家设计的精品时

计,也销售各大顶级国际品牌的腕表。不过,近些年

来,Wempe的珠宝系列同样收获了不少赞誉。

By Kim珠宝系列为品牌135年的历史开启了全

新的篇章。该系列以品牌创始人Gerhard Wempe

的曾孙女、现任首席执行官Kim-Eva Wempe之名

命名;最近,By Kim还发布了独一无二的钻石切

工,堪称Wempe品牌的重要里程碑。

“对于公司而言,Wempe-Cut®是我们珠宝

品牌发展的一大里程碑,”Wempe董事会成员Anja

Heiden解释道。“钻石是我们最重要的宝石,通过

我们的自主切割,我们不仅证明了Wempe在珠宝领

域中的创新实力和创造力,也成功为我们的顾客带

来了无与伦比的附加价值。”

Wempe-Cut®的研发重心几乎全部集中于

如何最好地呈现钻石的品质。所有的钻石都有严

格分级,以颜色而论,可分为“接近无色”(rare

white)或“无色”(rare white +);从净度的层面

来说,VSS(极微瑕级)和VS(瑕疵级)则是最高的

两个等级。

在设计过程中,Wempe的钻石专家与公司的钻石

切割大师携手,共同研究各种可能的切割方式。正

如Heiden所说,“我们必须要采用圆形切割——而

且还要显著提高钻石的明亮度和反光程度。根据

要求,我们生产了三种原型。其中一种完美满足了

所有的要求,而且看上去精美绝伦,那就是现在的

Wempe-Cut®。”

打造完成之后,每一颗Wempe-Cut®钻石都

会由位于安特卫普的世界知名认证机构和宝石研究

机构Hoge Raad voor Diamant进行认证。在这一

过程中,多位世界顶尖钻石专家将仔细检查每一颗

钻石的切工(cut)、颜色(colour)、纯度(clarity)

和重量(carat)——也就是奠定整个钻石行业之

基的“4C标准”。此外,所有的毛坯钻石都将接

受联合国框架下的金伯利进程(United Nations

Kimberley Process)认证,这一国际制度可确保钻

石是经合理开采而来。

在By Kim的最新珠宝系列Splendora中首次

亮相的全新切工共有137个刻面——相较Wempe

的57刻面明亮切割宝石有大幅提升。18 K的白金镶

嵌架低调而优雅,让Splendore系列的全部焦点都

集中于Wempe-Cut®钻石身上。该系列包括三件引

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86

globalblue.com

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When You Shop The World,

Shop Tax Free: 76

عندما تتسوق حول العال، تسوق من دون دفع الضيبة

当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时,

环球蓝联(Global Blue)购物退税服务(Tax Free

Shopping)为您节约购物开销。

每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联(Global

Blue)获得购物退税,您怎能错过?您要做的只

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(Global Blue Tax Free Form),并记得保存小

票。

2. 申请退税

当您准备回家时,您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台

请他们在您的退税表格上盖章,然后再到环球蓝联

的退税点领取您的退税款。

联系方式:

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+421 232 111 111

最低消费€25即可节约高达购买价格14.5%的税。请

注意:最终退款将包含增值税总额,但是要扣除管

理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取

现金退税手续费。

76: When You Shop The World,

Shop Tax Free

畅购全球,尊享退税

من الذهب البيض 18 قياطا أنيق ومتواضع، ما يضمن تسليط الضوء عل الاسة بشكل قطع Wempe. تشمل الجموعة ثلث

قطع مميزة: خاتا وقرطي وحلية. كل واحدة منها مرصعة باسات ذات قطع Wempe وتزن قياطا واحدا أو 1.4 قياط أو قياطي

ضمن إطار رباعي الرؤوس يضم 16 ماسة براقة القطع بوزن 0.09 قياط.

تسعى Heiden والصممون إل استخدام القطع الجديد ف مجموعة أوسع من التصاميم، با فيها الجوهرات الصممة بحسب

الطلب لبعض أبرز زبائنهم. تشح Heiden قائلة: “ستكون مجموعة Splendora الخط الول لـ By Kim الذي نقدم فيه

قطع Wempe حصيا، لكنه حتم ليس الخي. يكن أن يحصل الزبائن عل قطع Wempe ف أي إطار خاتم آخر يختارونه.”

بفضل هذه الرونة والنفتاح والهتمم الدائم برغبات الزبائن، تبقى Wempe ف الصدارة. تواصل العلمة تاريخها

ع الفكار والسبل الجديدة العريق من خلل الثابرة الدائة وتتببحمسة لبراز أسلوبها النيق الفاخر. من الاسات ذات القطع

ة Wempe الفريدة من نوعها إل الجوهرات الكلسيكي

والعصية التي تحملها، تعتني الشكة ف كل قطعة بأدق التفاصيل ويتجل هذا اللتزام بالتميز بوضوح.

人注目的作品:一枚戒指、一对耳饰和一枚坠饰。每

一件单品都饰有1.4克拉或2克拉的Wempe-Cut®

钻石,以四爪台镶嵌,四爪台内还饰有16枚更加明亮

的0.09克拉小钻。

Heiden和Wempe旗下的设计师们打算将

Wempe-Cut®切工用于各类作品,其中包括为

眼光最卓绝的顾客打造的定制珠宝。“Wempe-

Cut®将在By Kim的Splendora系列当中首次亮

相,”Heiden解释道,“但这肯定不会是它的最后一次

亮相。顾客也可以随意选择将Wempe-Cut®钻石镶

嵌在其他产品之中。”

如此灵活的设计、开放的思想和对顾客愿景的

尊重让Wempe一直走在所涉领域的最前沿。品牌不

断向前推进,以悠久的历史为根基,饱含热情地以

新颖的想法和方式传达其优雅而奢华的美学理念。

从精致的Wempe-Cut®钻石,到镶嵌着这些钻石、

经典而不失当代美感的珠宝,每一件作品的每一个

细节都经过了设计师的深思熟虑,亦将Wempe对卓

越的不懈追求展露无余。

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Making The Cut :50

قطع استثنائ

تحتفل علمة Wempe بإطلق قطع الاس الخاص بها. يستكشف Ruairidh Pritchard الضافة الباقة الجديدة إل العلمة

اللانية

ة، قليلة هي العلمات ة الكلسيكي ف مجال الساعات الوروبيالتجارية التي توازي Wempe سمعة أو تنوعا أو جودة. تتخذ

ة من هامبورغ مقرا لها وتعرض تصاميمها هذه الشكة العائليالفريدة من نوعها إل جانب ساعات من أفخر العلمات التجارية

ة فتبسط سيطرتها عل كل أدوات قياس الوقت. وف العاليالسنوات الخية الاضية، لفت خط الجوهرات لديها النظار

ولسبب وجيه.فتحت مجموعة الجوهرات By Kim صفحة جديدة ف

أنثوية أنيقة وراقية توجهت بوضوح إل جمهور جديد. اليوم، أصبحت العلمة التجارية أكث حداثة وديناميكية من أي وقت مض. ويعود الفضل الكبي ف ذلك ال مهارة الصمم القيم ف Hugo الذي طعم رقي وإبداع علمة ،Jason Wu نيويورك

Boss بالحداثة. وبفضل Wu، وهومدير ابتكار اللبس النسائية

منذ سنة 2013، بات هذا الخط باهرا ومحددا للموضة. قد يبدو هذا الصمم الشاب العاص الشهور بالناقة البسيطة دخيل عل

علمة تجارية ألانية عريقة انطلقت منذ 91 سنة، لكنه أصبح من Michelle Obama أهل الدار. عززت السيدة الميكية الولد الناقة البسيطة عندما اختارت ارتداء شهرة Jason Wu كسي

ثوب من تصميمه خلل حفل تنصيب زوجها سنة 2009، ممجعل منه رمزا مثاليا لعلمة تجارية أمضت تسعة عقود تتقن

ثل. مم أسلوبا جملياعندما طلب منه الدير التنفيذي Christoph Auhagen أن

يتول هذا النصب، أول سؤال جال ف خاطر Wu كان: “ل أنا؟ بدا عرضا غريبا جدا إذ تعر“ Boss عل أنها علمة تجارية للملبس

الرجالية ولست ملم جدا بالقسم النسائ الذي أسس قبل 15عاما ل غي.” لكن من المور التي دفعت Wu إل قبول العرض كانت حداثة مقرBoss البارزة ف Metzingen والتي يصفها

بـ”موقع تصوير فيلم Gattaca”. منذ انضممه إل العلمة ، تكن Wu من إضافة عنصي الدقة والتميز. ضمت مجموعته

الخية طبقات وقمصان بالللون البيض الجليدي وفساتي باللون الرمادي الهادئ والفاتح وأثوابا سوداء بسيطة وقمصانا وفساتي

مكشوفة الظهر جزئيا باللون الصفر الزاهي.Hugo وإن كنت تبحث عن الزيد من الدلة لتتأكد من تحقيق

Boss مزيدا من النجاحات، نعلمك أنها رعت يختا يحمل إسمها

ف خريف 2015. سيشارك اليخت الزخر“ بأعمل الصمم Vendée ف سباق Konstantin Grcic الصناعي الرموق

Globe لليخوت لعام 2016 بقيادة البحار مكس الرقام

القياسية Alex Thomson. بفضل مدير البتكار Wu وعدد متزايد من النتجات والتاجر، أضف إل ذلك هذه التجربة البحرية

الجديدة، يكن القول إن Hugo Boss تبحر ال المام. قد يبدو ذلك تكرارا وإسهابا، لكن الحق يقال إن هذه الشكة تضع

الستقبل نصب عينيها.

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تاريخ الشكة الذي يعود إل 135 سنة. تحمل الجموعة إسم الديرة التنفيذية التألقة Kim-Eva Wempe، إبنة حفيد

ال”سس Gerhard Wempe وتشكل الجموعة الخية إنجازامحوريا للعلمة إذ أطلقت قطعا خاصا بها.

:Wempe من مجلس إدارة Anja Heiden تقول“بالنسبة إلينا كشكة، نعتب قطع Wempe-Cut® حدثا بارزا

ف مسية ازدهار علمة الجوهرات. الاس أهم حجر كريم لدينا، وبفضل القطع الخاص بنا، ل نبهن براعتنا وابتكارنا ف هذا الجال

ة استثنائية.” فحسب، بل نجحنا ف تزويد زبائننا بقيمة إضافيتحور تشكيل القطع عل الطريقة الفضل لظهار جودة

الاسات. وقد حدد لون كل الاسات بـ “البيض النادر” أو “البيض النادر +” وصنفت بـ VVS أو VS وهم من أعل درجات

الوضوح.Wempe ف خلل مرحلة التصميم، عمل خباء الاس لدى

مع أبرع قاطعي الاس ف الشكة ليبتكروا عددا من أشكال القطع الحتملة. وعل حد تعبي Heiden: “كان ل بد أن يكون قطعادائري الشكل وأن يزيد نسبيا لعان الحجر وقدرته عل عكس الضوء. وبناء عل شوطنا، تم تصنيع ثلثة ناذج. لبى أحدهم

”.Wempe كافة الشوط وبدا جميل، فاختناه ليكون قطعبعد تشكيل كل قطع جديد، ينح كل حجر شهادة من

ة لصدار Hoge Raad voor Diamant، وهي السلطة العالي

الشهادات ومعهد مختص بعلم الحجار الكرية ف أنتويرب. ف ة، يتفحص أبرز خباء الاس ف العال كل حجر خلل هذه العملي

عل حدا ليحددوا القطع واللون والوضوح والوزن وهي الخصائص التي يقوم عليها قطاع الاس. كم تصادق كافة الحجار الخام من

ة كمبل، النظام الدول الذي يضمن استخراج الاس خلل عمليبالسبل الصحيحة.

By Kim يظهر القطع الجديد للمرة الول ف مجموعةالخية للمجوهرات Splendora، ويتألف من 137 وجها، أي

زيادة عن الـ 57 وجها ف أحجار Wempe الباقة القطع. الطار

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globalblue.com

In Focus: :46

تحت الجهر:

تتباهى هذه العلمة التجارية اللانية الرموقة والعروفة ف جميع أنحاء العال ببدلتها الميزة، بتاثها العريق واضعة الستقبل نصب

Stephen Doig عينيها، تقرير

يجسد مقر Hugo Boss الذهل ف Metzingen روح العلمة التجارية. ف حي يعكس موقعها سحر البلدة اللانية النموذجية

ة جزئيا وقبب مسننة من القرون من خلل واجهات خشبيالوسطى، وقد اتخذ مركز العلمة الرئيس شكل هيكل فولذي مطعم بزجاج لاع، وسط حدائق مشذبة بدقة صارمة: إنه رمز

الحداثة البارزة ف وجه التقاليد. ينطبق هذا الوصف عل علمة Hugo Boss بنفسها ،حيث أصبحت العلمة التجارية معروفة

بالسلوب العاص والجديد ف سوق ل يكن تاريخيا ف صدارة صناعة الزياء. عل الرغم من أصول Karl Lagerfeld اللانية وهيمنة العلمات التجارية الرياضية مثل Adidas وPuma، ل يكن للانيا أن تضاهي الملكة التحدة وفرنسا وإيطاليا ف مجال

السلوب الراقي.لطالا سعت Hugo Boss إل تغيي ذلك. تم إطلق

العلمة التجارية كشكة ملبس صغية سنة 1924 وقد واجه مؤسسها الذي يحمل السم نفسه عقبات مختلفة، با ف ذلك

الفلس، تاركا لصاحب الشوع ست آلت خياطة ل غي. ورغم كل الصعاب، واظب رجل العمل اللتزم عل بناء العلمة التجارية

بثبات. اليوم وبعد أكث من 90 عاما عل تأسيسها، نت لتصبح Hugo Boss لتصبح واحدة من أكب وأنجح علمات الزياء ف العال، مع مجموعة تضم العديد من الخطوط تحت

تسميات Hugo Boss، وتتاوح النتجات بي البدلت الصممة بحسب الطلب والعطور، ضمن شبكة دولية تضم أكث من ألف

متجر.عل الرغم من تغي الساليب عب السني وتأقلم العلمة مع ة الشهورة، اللبس العملية هي التي حددت ة اللاني الباغمتيكي

هوية Hugo Boss. بدأ الدار سنة 1950 بتصميم بدلت للرجال وطور طرقا مبتكرة لنتاج قطع جاهزة؛ المر الذي اعتب مهارة بارعة ف حقبة كانت فيها صناعة البدلت العالية الجودة

ة شاقة. عمليلطالا أثرت الحمسة لتقديم الفضل لرجال العمل، ولحقا

لسيدات العمل، عل كل ما صممه Hugo Boss عل مرالسني، با ف ذلك مجموعاته الراقية، وربا تعود شعبية العلمة

العالية ال قدرتها عل تعديل أسلوب Boss با يتناسب مع مختلف السواق. تقدم مجموعات عروض الزياء بصمتها العاصة

من خلل البدلت النيقة والخياطة النظيفة والقصات الضيقة Boss والقطع الزودة بصف واحد من الزرار. مع تأسيس خط

الخفض السعار سنة 1970، وسعت العلمة انتشارها لتصل إل أولئك الذين كانوا يجدون اللبس الفاخرة بعيدة النال. سنة 1998، قدمت العلمة أول مجموعة ملبس نسائية لها وتيزت

باتباعها موضة اللبس السلطوية بجرأة: فساتي فضفاضة وبدلت

الصغر سنا تراه قديم الطراز؛ غي أن القطع العريقة الزخرفة ة، فل تزال ة أو الطراف الذهبي بأشكال الزهور أو الناظر الريفي

رائجة اليوم ف بعض الماكن.تش” Rauch قائلة: “الحقيقة أنه ل أحد بحاجة إل أدوات

مائدة من الخزف كل سنة. ل يعد معظم الناس بحاجة إل وعاء للحساء أو ستة أنواع من الطباق. لذلك ل بد لنا كقطاع وطني

أن نتأقلم مع الوضع. علينا أن نتمش مع ما هو رائج؛ هل نتناول العكرونة أكث؟ هل يعيش معظمنا بفرده؟ علينا أن نوفر منتجات أكث عصية. يجب أن نكون عل استعداد عندما يضجر الناس من

”.IkeaVilleroy & Boch لهذا السبب تنتج علمات أمثالقطعا أكث ابتكارا تزج فيها عل سبيل الثال الخزف بالحجر

والخزف بالخشب. لهذا السبب تتعامل شكة HÖchster مع الصمم Veit Streitenberger القيم ف فرانكفورت حيث

الشكة، لبتكار ناذج فائقة الحداثة عن قطع تقليدية من الخزف. مجموعة Impressions )إنطباعات( عل سبيل الثال، إسمعل مسمى. تشمل مزهرية مكعبة عصية طبع عليها شكل

ة تقليدية. وقد أجريت تعديلت جذرية عل مزهرية أسطوانيوعاء مخروطي من خلل عناص متكاملة من طبق من القرن

الثامن عش منقوش بالزهار مألوف لمثال von Ostein. وثة ة لفتح الرسائل، من قطع أخرى تفوق الخيال؛ عل سبيل أداة خزفي

Frankfurt وحائزة جائزة Mario Effenberger تصميم.Messe Design Plus

ف هذا السوق الديناميك، ليس لكل قطعة صغية مكانمحفوظ. اليوم ونظرا لتصميم النازل الداخل العصي، باتت

تاثيل الزينة الصغية تجذب هواة التجميع ل غي أو ربا تشتى

لناسبة مميزة. لكن ربا تكون مجرد مسألة وقت حتى يقوم أحد ة ف ألانيا بإعادة ابتكار هذه التمثيل أيضا. أقدم القطاعات الحرفي

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In Fine Shape :40

تصاميم مصقولة

ترجمة باللغة العربية

يعزز صانعو الخزف التقليدي ف ألانيا مكانتهم جاذبي معجبي Josh جدد من خلل تقنيات مبتكرة وتصاميم خلقة، تقرير

Sims

إن كان استخدام أفضل أدوات الائدة الخزفية ف حفل عشاء ل القلق الذي كان ينتاب الطران النتتخب ف يربكك اليوم، تخي

ماينز Johann Friedrich Karl von Ostein ف القرن ة منها. أحب هذا الثامن عش والذي كان بحاجة إل كمية سخي

ة الرفيعة الستوى إل حد كبي، دفعه الرجل أدوات الائدة الخزفيإل منح أحد الصانعي تصيحا بصناعة الخزف ف فراكفورت

وضمن توافره باستمرار لدى أسته.HÖchst Porzellan فكانت النتيجة تأسيس علمة

)HÖchster Porzellan-Manufaktur التي باتت اليوم(سنة 1746 فشكلت إحدى أوائل شكات صناعة الخزف ف ألانيا. وتكريا لراعيها، اعتمدت عجلة Mainz كشعار لها ويظهر هذا

ة وقطع الرمز عل الخزف البيض اللمع الشوي والقطع الطليالزينة والهم هو عل أدوات الائدة حتى ف يومنا هذا. غي أنه ليس الناجي الوحيد من سنوات الصانع الول؛ تشمل مجموعة

HÖchster نسخا بارعة عن أشهر قطعها من القرن الثامن عش.

عل الرغم من حضور HÖchster الواضح ف محيط فرانكفورت، ليست عل الطلق الشكة الوحيدة الصنعة للخزف

ف ألانيا. تضم البلد بعض أرقى صانعي الخزف ف العال، من Meissen إل Nymphenburg وWagner & Apel إل

KÖnigliche Porzellan-Manufaktur وLichte. وبا

أن ألانيا هي البلد الذي تم فيه أخيا اكتشاف س صناعة الخزف الصيني الذائع الصيت سنة 1708، ل عجب أن يصنف هواة

ة من بي الرقى ف العال. تجميع الخزف العلمات اللانية الخرى الرائدة ف هذا الجال، من العلمات اللاني

Villeroy & Boch وسفيتها Jessika Rauch. تعتقد أنازدهار قطاع الخزف الجيد ف البلد أمر طبيعي للغاية. ففي وقت

ة لسافات طويلة، ة لنقل الواد الولي تعذرت فيه البنى التحتياضطر الصانعون إل العمل أينم تواجدت هذه الواد؛ ومعظم

ة غنية بالكاولي والكوارتز والفلسبار وهي مكونات الناطق اللانيالخزف الساسية الثلثة. كم ساهمت وفرة هذه الواد ف إنتاج

ة ترثها قطع عالية الجودة، أي عل حد قول Rauch: “ قطع خزفيعن جدتك”.

تضيف: “بالطبع، يصعب عل الكثيين التمييز بي أدوات ة الفاخرة، تاما كصعوبة التفرقة الائدة التجارية والنتجات الخزفيف اللبس بي نوع قطن وآخر. غالبا ما يتمتع الخزف الجيد بلون

مائل إل البيض السك ويكون وجهه السفل ناعم أكث منه خشنا، وإن كنت خبيا بالخزف، تلحظ اختلفا حتى ف رنينه. لكنه يبهن جودته العالية عن حق ف خلل استخدامه. فالخزف الجيد

يدوم ويشكل استثمرا.”تشي إل أن العديد من الصانعي الصغيي الحجم ف البلد

ة ف العقود الاضية، ف حي حقق اللعبون واجهوا أزمات ماليالساسيون النجا” من خلل إعادة ابتكار بعض القطع البارزة. وإن

كانت الجيال الكب سنا تعتب الخزف العال الجودة ترفا، فتلك

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Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76

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QUALITY TIME

The newly released 6200 Meisterbund I from

Sinn – a brand long valued by pilots, divers,

rescue workers and the like – is the elegant

result of a collaboration between three of

Germany’s leading players in the watchmaking

business. The name Meisterbund, which means

‘cooperation of master craftsmen’, is a fitting

one for the limited-edition timepiece, only 55 of

which have been produced. The 18-carat rose

gold watch, which has an attractive guilloché

dial and brown leather strap, features a

hand-wound calibre from Uhren-Werke-

Dresden (UWD), while Sächsische

Uhrentechnologie Glashütte (SUG) is

responsible for the technologically advanced

case. The result is a stylish timepiece with

enduring appeal. rd

Sinn 6200 Meisterbund I watch, €12,900,

Sinn, Römerberg 34, 60311 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 9784 14650, sinn.de

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 65

Page 91: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

Frankfurt: Rathenauplatz 1

Page 92: SHOP Frankfurt SS16

MARK J. PLOTKIN

RAINFOREST ADVOCATE

WEARING THE ICONIC GANT SHIRT,

LAUNCHED AT EAST COAST

UNIVERSITIES IN 1949.

THEY CHANGED THE WORLD.

NOT THE SHIRT.

GA

NT

.CO

M

S H I R T M A K E R S S I N C E 1 9 4 9

GANT STORES FRANKFURT

MYZEIL & MAIN-TAUNUS-ZENTRUM & AIRPORT-AIRSIDE FLUGSTEIG A