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TIN HUA No Limits 创意无限 CENTRAL Written in the Stars 星级料理 MACAU The Joy of Pastry 乐在烘焙 HKD40 | MOP40 | RMB42 | NTD180 | SGD8 | USD6 | £4 tasting kitchen #6 mar 2013

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Page 1: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

Tin Hua No Limits 创意无限

CenTral Written in the Stars 星级料理

MaCau The Joy of Pastry 乐在烘焙

HKD40 | MOP40 | RMB42 | NTD180 | SGD8 | USD6 | £4

t a s t i n g k i t c h e n # 6 • m a r 2 0 1 3

ma

r 2

01

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6

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl river Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and m

ost delicious food. th

e jo

y o

f p

as

tr

y

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starter

Chef Boulanger Norihiko Takei makes these wonderfully light and flaky layered pastries at Le Salon de Thé de Joël Robuchon. Topped with a layer of almond paste, decorated with toasted flaked almonds and

dusted with icing sugar, they conceal a center of dark, bitter chocolate and softly fragrant banana.

Le Salon de Thé de Joël Robuchon Chef Boulanger (面包烘焙师) 武井周彦(Norihiko Takei)制作的巧克力面包酥,

十分轻软。内馅为黑苦巧克力、软绵芳香的香蕉,最上面涂抹杏仁酱,饰以烘烤片状杏仁及糖霜。

Nowhere on earth are great wines more refreshing, or refreshing wines more distinctively delicious. www.austrianwine.com

TasTe Culture

Tasting Kitchen Kellergasse.indd 1 06.03.13 13:11

4 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

Page 7: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

starter

Chef Boulanger Norihiko Takei makes these wonderfully light and flaky layered pastries at Le Salon de Thé de Joël Robuchon. Topped with a layer of almond paste, decorated with toasted flaked almonds and

dusted with icing sugar, they conceal a center of dark, bitter chocolate and softly fragrant banana.

Le Salon de Thé de Joël Robuchon Chef Boulanger (面包烘焙师) 武井周彦(Norihiko Takei)制作的巧克力面包酥,

十分轻软。内馅为黑苦巧克力、软绵芳香的香蕉,最上面涂抹杏仁酱,饰以烘烤片状杏仁及糖霜。

Nowhere on earth are great wines more refreshing, or refreshing wines more distinctively delicious. www.austrianwine.com

TasTe Culture

Tasting Kitchen Kellergasse.indd 1 06.03.13 13:11

4 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

Nowhere on earth are great wines more refreshing, or refreshing wines more distinctively delicious. www.austrianwine.com

TasTe Culture

Tasting Kitchen Kellergasse.indd 1 06.03.13 13:11

Page 8: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

on our cover

The elegant pastries on the cover were made by Mandarin Oriental Macau Executive Pastry Chef Sébastien Bérnis.

封面如此雅致的糕点是由澳门文华东方酒店

饼房行政总厨鲍思培精心制作。

a. Vanilla Mango Lollipops 云尼拿芒果棒棒糖

b. Rose Petal Macarons 玫瑰蛋白杏仁饼

c. Coconut Rum Cake 椰子冧酒蛋糕

d. Hazelnut Choux 榛子泡芙

e. Jasmine Mousse 茉莉花慕丝

f. Guanaja Chocolate Tartlet 巧克力挞

g. Red Berry Tartlet 红莓挞

h. Mango and Marshmallow 芒果棉花糖

i. Pistachio Macarons 开心果蛋白杏仁饼

j. Raspberry Financiers 红桑子杏仁饼

Photograph by David Hartung

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen.

This is a sweet issue. Like a

pâtisserie between two covers, it is

stocked with tarts and cakes, bonbons,

chocolate cherries, pain aux amandes,

fig beignets, edible stilettos, a macaron

dessert kebab, and lots more – all the

crazy wonderful delicious things pastry

chefs create to make us happy.

Pastry work offers imaginative

chefs tremendous freedom. Great

pastry chefs find ways to use that

freedom to express themselves both

with forms and flavors, honoring traditions or tweaking them, offering

beautiful simplicity or wondrous complexity, while always remembering the

most basic aim of their profession: sweet pleasure.

The talented pastry chefs featured in this issue are all passionate

about their work, and all motivated to bring joy to other people with their

creations. As you flip through these pages, we think you’ll agree that they are

succeeding, and brilliantly.

Enjoy!

editor’s note

M A R 2 0 1 3 • I s s u e # 6

t h e J O Y O F P A s t R Y

A member of Ignite Media Group (Hong Kong) Limited

Tasting Kitchenwww.tasting-kitchen.com 7A, 22/F, Kodak House II39 Healthy East Street Quarry Bay, Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2642 0008

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food.

Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

Jeff HammonsEDITOR AT LARGE

[email protected]

David HartungDIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHy

Helene WongCHInESE EDITOR

Crystal TaiEDITOR

Mamie Chen Inara Sim

Lucy MorganCOnTRIBuTInG WRITERS

SubSCrIpTIonS [email protected]

prInTIngEmerald Data Processing and Printing Company Limited

3/F, Cheung Lee Industrial Building9 Cheung Lee Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong

DISTrIbuTIonBlackstone Concepts Communication

+ 852 3481 0518

©Tasting Kitchen 2012. All rights reserved

Mark HammonsFOunDER

GROuP MAnAGInG DIRECTOR & [email protected]

Jenny ManGROuP GEnERAL MAnAGER & CO-PuBLISHER

[email protected]

Jean AlbertiCHEF AT LARGE

[email protected]

Alicia beebeART DIRECTOR

Joey CheangEDITORIAL COORDInATOR

Kennis YuenPRODuCTIOn MAnAGER

Anita LeongCIRCuLATIOn MAnAGER

Ivan LamACCOunTAnT

Hong Kong offICe

Stanley LauASST. SALES DIRECTOR

+852 9753 [email protected]

MACAu offICe

gerard William WhittyASST. SALES DIRECTOR

+853 6279 [email protected]

group ADverTISIng

[email protected]

Tin Hua No Limits 无限创意

CenTral Written in the Stars 星级料理

MaCau The Joy of Pastry 乐在烘焙

HKD40 | MOP40 | RMB42 | NTD180 | SGD8 | USD6 | £4

t a s t i n g k i t c h e n # 6 • m a r 2 0 1 3

ma

r 2

01

36

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl river Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and m

ost delicious food. th

e jo

y o

f p

as

tr

y

a b

dc

ji

fe

gh

6 | t a s t I N G K I t C h e N | j a n u a r y 2 0 1 3

Page 9: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

on our cover

The elegant pastries on the cover were made by Mandarin Oriental Macau Executive Pastry Chef Sébastien Bérnis.

封面如此雅致的糕点是由澳门文华东方酒店

饼房行政总厨鲍思培精心制作。

a. Vanilla Mango Lollipops 云尼拿芒果棒棒糖

b. Rose Petal Macarons 玫瑰蛋白杏仁饼

c. Coconut Rum Cake 椰子冧酒蛋糕

d. Hazelnut Choux 榛子泡芙

e. Jasmine Mousse 茉莉花慕丝

f. Guanaja Chocolate Tartlet 巧克力挞

g. Red Berry Tartlet 红莓挞

h. Mango and Marshmallow 芒果棉花糖

i. Pistachio Macarons 开心果蛋白杏仁饼

j. Raspberry Financiers 红桑子杏仁饼

Photograph by David Hartung

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen.

This is a sweet issue. Like a

pâtisserie between two covers, it is

stocked with tarts and cakes, bonbons,

chocolate cherries, pain aux amandes,

fig beignets, edible stilettos, a macaron

dessert kebab, and lots more – all the

crazy wonderful delicious things pastry

chefs create to make us happy.

Pastry work offers imaginative

chefs tremendous freedom. Great

pastry chefs find ways to use that

freedom to express themselves both

with forms and flavors, honoring traditions or tweaking them, offering

beautiful simplicity or wondrous complexity, while always remembering the

most basic aim of their profession: sweet pleasure.

The talented pastry chefs featured in this issue are all passionate

about their work, and all motivated to bring joy to other people with their

creations. As you flip through these pages, we think you’ll agree that they are

succeeding, and brilliantly.

Enjoy!

editor’s note

M A R 2 0 1 3 • I s s u e # 6

t h e J O Y O F P A s t R Y

A member of Ignite Media Group (Hong Kong) Limited

Tasting Kitchenwww.tasting-kitchen.com 7A, 22/F, Kodak House II39 Healthy East Street Quarry Bay, Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2642 0008

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food.

Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

Jeff HammonsEDITOR AT LARGE

[email protected]

David HartungDIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHy

Helene WongCHInESE EDITOR

Crystal TaiEDITOR

Mamie Chen Inara Sim

Lucy MorganCOnTRIBuTInG WRITERS

SubSCrIpTIonS [email protected]

prInTIngEmerald Data Processing and Printing Company Limited

3/F, Cheung Lee Industrial Building9 Cheung Lee Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong

DISTrIbuTIonBlackstone Concepts Communication

+ 852 3481 0518

©Tasting Kitchen 2012. All rights reserved

Mark HammonsFOunDER

GROuP MAnAGInG DIRECTOR & [email protected]

Jenny ManGROuP GEnERAL MAnAGER & CO-PuBLISHER

[email protected]

Jean AlbertiCHEF AT LARGE

[email protected]

Alicia beebeART DIRECTOR

Joey CheangEDITORIAL COORDInATOR

Kennis YuenPRODuCTIOn MAnAGER

Anita LeongCIRCuLATIOn MAnAGER

Ivan LamACCOunTAnT

Hong Kong offICe

Stanley LauASST. SALES DIRECTOR

+852 9753 [email protected]

MACAu offICe

gerard William WhittyASST. SALES DIRECTOR

+853 6279 [email protected]

group ADverTISIng

[email protected]

Tin Hua No Limits 无限创意

CenTral Written in the Stars 星级料理

MaCau The Joy of Pastry 乐在烘焙

HKD40 | MOP40 | RMB42 | NTD180 | SGD8 | USD6 | £4

t a s t i n g k i t c h e n # 6 • m a r 2 0 1 3

ma

r 2

01

3

6

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl river Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and m

ost delicious food. th

e jo

y o

f p

as

tr

y

a b

dc

ji

fe

gh

6 | t a s t I N G K I t C h e N | j a n u a r y 2 0 1 3

Page 10: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

contents

T A S T I N G N E W S 10-13

Clown Cakes 14  •  Love at First Sip 16  •  Perfect Balance 18  •  Written in the Stars 20  •  The Happiness of Kafka 24

The Sweet Life 26  •  Free Spirit 30  •  Cold Hands, Warm Heart 32  •  The Man in the Mira 34  •  No Limits 36

The Joy of Pastry 42  •  Jasmine Tea Chocolate Tropézienne 52  •  Cake Karma 56  •  Discreet Delight 60  •  The Way of Merlot 62

R E S T A u R A N T L I S T I N G S 66  •  W h E R E T o f I N d T K 70  • d E S S E R T 72

8 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

14

1618

26

52

60

34

20

56

30/32

62

36

24

42

14

Page 11: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

contents

T A S T I N G N E W S 10-13

Clown Cakes 14  •  Love at First Sip 16  •  Perfect Balance 18  •  Written in the Stars 20  •  The Happiness of Kafka 24

The Sweet Life 26  •  Free Spirit 30  •  Cold Hands, Warm Heart 32  •  The Man in the Mira 34  •  No Limits 36

The Joy of Pastry 42  •  Jasmine Tea Chocolate Tropézienne 52  •  Cake Karma 56  •  Discreet Delight 60  •  The Way of Merlot 62

R E S T A u R A N T L I S T I N G S 66  •  W h E R E T o f I N d T K 70  • d E S S E R T 72

8 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

14

1618

26

52

60

34

20

56

30/32

62

36

24

42

14

Page 12: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

tasting news

To complement the premium cheese, bread and wine which they’re known for, Classified has begun offering a new lineup of pastries at each of its Hong Kong cafes. There are new sweet and savory choices to tempt every taste bud: butter crois-sants, pain aux raisins, apricot Danish, and matchstick-thin chocolate allumettes. Brit-tany butter and hand-picked berries are some of the quality ingredients that the Classified bakers transform into delicious pastry pleasure. If the expanded selec-tion makes choosing difficult, start with a classic raspberry and custard Danish, and go from there.

为搭配店内著名的顶级芝士、面包与美酒,

Classified 已在香港各分店推出一系列甜

点,包括奶油牛角包、欧式葡萄面包、杏

桃丹麦酥等等来满足您的味蕾。Classified的烘焙师傅向来擅长将高级食材转化为美

味甜点,如果选择太多让您眼花撩乱,建

议您先尝经典的覆盆子卡士达丹麦酥吧。

美味加倍佳

Double the Pleasure

The people behind Hong Kong’s popular caffé Habitū have recently opened Coffee Academïcs. Don’t be put off by that odd, umlauted “i” – the pleasures at the flagship café in Causeway Bay are straightforward, and addictive: great fresh-roasted coffee; an open, spacious interior with high ceilings and beautiful brick walls; and a happening, coffee-junkies vibe.

在香港大红大紫的 caffè HABITU 最近在铜锣湾开设了咖啡概念品

牌 The Coffee Academïcs 旗舰店。这里的顶级新鲜烘焙咖啡将为

您带来令人难以自拔的愉悦体验!店内宽敞开放,高挑的天花板

与美丽的红砖墙,来这里当个最时尚的咖啡瘾君子吧。

香港的流言「啡」语

Buzzed in Hong Kong

ClassifiedShop 1, G/F, 108 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong香港上环苏豪荷李活道 108 号地下

q +852 2525 3454

The Coffee AcademïcsNo. 38, Yiu Wa Street, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong香港铜锣湾耀华街 38 号地下

q +852 2156 0313

10 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

Page 13: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

tasting news

To complement the premium cheese, bread and wine which they’re known for, Classified has begun offering a new lineup of pastries at each of its Hong Kong cafes. There are new sweet and savory choices to tempt every taste bud: butter crois-sants, pain aux raisins, apricot Danish, and matchstick-thin chocolate allumettes. Brit-tany butter and hand-picked berries are some of the quality ingredients that the Classified bakers transform into delicious pastry pleasure. If the expanded selec-tion makes choosing difficult, start with a classic raspberry and custard Danish, and go from there.

为搭配店内著名的顶级芝士、面包与美酒,

Classified 已在香港各分店推出一系列甜

点,包括奶油牛角包、欧式葡萄面包、杏

桃丹麦酥等等来满足您的味蕾。Classified的烘焙师傅向来擅长将高级食材转化为美

味甜点,如果选择太多让您眼花撩乱,建

议您先尝经典的覆盆子卡士达丹麦酥吧。

美味加倍佳

Double the Pleasure

The people behind Hong Kong’s popular caffé Habitū have recently opened Coffee Academïcs. Don’t be put off by that odd, umlauted “i” – the pleasures at the flagship café in Causeway Bay are straightforward, and addictive: great fresh-roasted coffee; an open, spacious interior with high ceilings and beautiful brick walls; and a happening, coffee-junkies vibe.

在香港大红大紫的 caffè HABITU 最近在铜锣湾开设了咖啡概念品

牌 The Coffee Academïcs 旗舰店。这里的顶级新鲜烘焙咖啡将为

您带来令人难以自拔的愉悦体验!店内宽敞开放,高挑的天花板

与美丽的红砖墙,来这里当个最时尚的咖啡瘾君子吧。

香港的流言「啡」语

Buzzed in Hong Kong

ClassifiedShop 1, G/F, 108 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong香港上环苏豪荷李活道 108 号地下

q +852 2525 3454

The Coffee AcademïcsNo. 38, Yiu Wa Street, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong香港铜锣湾耀华街 38 号地下

q +852 2156 0313

10 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

Pastry Gems is aptly named: this new gem of a pastry shop, located in the lobby of The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong, features the gorgeously realized cakes, pastries, chocolates and viennoiserie of Executive Pastry Chef Richard Long and his team. “A good dessert should have three elements,” says Richard. “Temperature, texture and flavor. The beauty of pastry is the marriage of these things.” In Chef Long’s desserts, the marriage of these elements is a beautiful, deeply happy one.

Pastry Gems 店如其名。这颗糕饼界的闪亮新星,位

于香港丽思卡尔顿酒店大堂,由行政糕点总厨骆育文

带领他的专业团队,精心烹调一系列精致的蛋糕、面

包、巧克力与点心。骆师傅说:「好的糕点必须具备

三要素:温度、质感、风味,缺一不可。」骆师傅出

品的糕点既窝心又美观,果真名不虚传。

Pastry Gems 9F, The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Road West, Kowloon, Hong Kong

香港九龙柯士甸道西 1 号环球贸易广场 , 香港丽思卡尔顿酒店 9 楼

东西交融新滋味

East West SweetsWith his East-meets-West treats, Chef Kelvin Lai has brought pastry fame to the Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Sha Tin. Mixing Chinese ingredients into typi-cally Western dishes, Lai’s dishes include Chinese preserved bean curd cheesecake, caramelized walnut sesame rolls with plum sauce, and kumquat crème brûlée. His creativity, artistry and attention to detail ensure that the pastries served at Sha Tin 18 are as delicious and beautiful as they are inventive.

糕饼界之星

Happy Marriage

香港沙田凯悦酒店饼房行政主厨赖耀辉师

傅融合东方与西方食材,将甜点带至前所

未有的崭新境界。赖师傅在经典西式料理

里使用中式食材的作品众多,包括腐乳芝

士蛋糕、核桃芝麻卷黄梅汁及柑橘法式炖

蛋。他的创意性、艺术性与对细节一丝不

苟的坚持,让沙田 18 的糕点永远新颖、美

味、令人惊艳。

Sha Tin 18 沙田 18 4/F, Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Sha Tin

18 Chak Cheung Street, Sha Tin, New Territories, Hong Kong香港新界沙田泽祥街 18 号 香港沙田凯悦酒店 4 楼

Mango Delight 芒果蛋糕

m a r c h 2 0 1 3 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | 11

Page 14: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

tasting news

蛋挞之王

King of Tarts

From April 2 until May 5, 2013, The Land-mark Mandarin Oriental’s MO Bar will be featuring “Afternoon Tea with Jimmy Choo,” a tea set featuring pink high heels, glam leopard print clutch bags and other fashionable items – all edible. “Jimmy Choo’s sexy stiletto heels, glamorous designs, great sense of style and color, and exceptional Italian craftsmanship serve as excellent inspiration for our culinary team,” says Executive Chef Sidney Schutte.

从 2013 年 4 月 2 日至 5 月 5 日,香港置

地文华东方酒店 MO Bar 将隆重推出「与

Jimmy Choo 共进下午茶」活动。下午茶餐

点包括粉红高跟鞋、华丽豹纹手提包及其

他时尚精品。行政总厨 Sidney Schutte 表

示:「 Jimmy Choo 出众的设计、风格与配色,

加上卓越超群的意大利工艺,全都是我们

团队的创作灵感来源。」

「食」尚精品

These Choos Weren’t Made for Walking

MO Bar G/F, Landmark Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 15 Queen’s Road, Central

香港中环皇后大道中 15 号置地文华东方酒店大堂

It’s not hard to find a good egg tart in Macau. For a great egg tart, make the trip to Coloane and pay a visit to Lord Stow’s. Started as a modest shop on the village square back in the 1980’s by Andrew Stow, an Englishman, Lord Stow’s has been setting a wickedly delicious standard for egg tarts for more than two decades.

Lord Stow General Manager Eileen Stow describes her late brother’s egg tart recipe as a marriage between the traditional Portuguese pasteis de nata and an English custard tart. “The filling is very rich – my brother called it the ‘wibbly wobbly’ filling – and the pastry has just the right thickness to make that perfect delicious balance when you bite in.”

Lord Stow’s Bakery 安德鲁饼店

1 Rua da Tassara, Coloane Town Square Macau澳门路环市区市中心挞沙街 1 号地下

在澳门要找到好吃的蛋挞不难,但要吃到

让您齿颊留香,就一定得到路环的安德鲁

饼店。这家饼店于 1980 年代由英国人安德

鲁创建,原本仅是村庄广场边一家不起眼

的小店,却在过去 20 年间,为蛋挞设下令

人望尘莫及的高标准。

安德鲁饼店总经理 Eileen Stow 表示,

他已故哥哥的蛋挞食谱是传统葡式和英式

蛋挞的完美结合。「内馅香醇浓厚,我哥哥

用 wibbly wobbly 形容它,而酥皮的厚度也

恰到好处,一咬下去,内馅与酥皮便在口

里平衡地化开,好吃得不得了。」

12 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

Page 15: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

Follow the vanilla-scented air across Tastes of Asia at Galaxy Macau™ to the irresistible offerings at a trio of Japanese-style sweet shops. The shelves at Mochi Sweets are lined with deli-cious, bite-sized temptation. At Mazāzu Crepe, the thin, delicate pancakes are folded and interleaved with sweet or savory fill-ings. The crust of one of Choux Crème’s double chocolate puffs, made from shards of baked dark chocolate, gives way to a sweet center of cocoa cream. Freshly made using the finest ingredi-ents imported from Japan, these popular, unique snacks make a perfect quick lunch or sweet treat. No reservations required.

一走进「澳門银河 ™」综合渡假城的亚洲美食坊,浓郁的香草香

气扑鼻而来,然后你就会发现这三家令人难以抗拒的日式甜品店。

「摩提工房」(Mochi Sweets) 店里的架上陈列着小巧可爱、看来相

当可口的糯米糍。「妈咪の可丽芙」 (Mazāzu Crepe) 店中陈列着精

致薄烤饼,中间是美味的馅料。至于「西树工房」 (Choux Crème) 的双倍巧克力芭芙,外层铺满烘焙过的黑巧克力,当中是香甜的

可可酱。使用日本进口的最佳原料现做,这些甜点可以当作午餐

轻食,也可以当下午茶享用。无須事先订位。

Tastes of Asia 亞洲美食坊

G43, G/F, Galaxy Macau™「澳門银河 ™」综合渡假城地下一楼 G43

来一场甜蜜的相遇吧!

Sweet Spot

Mango Yogurt Mochi

芒果乳酪糯米糍

Crispy Chocolate Puff 朱古力脆皮芭芙

Green Tea Mochi 抹茶糯米糍

Hokkaido Milk Pudding Puff

北海道牛奶布丁芭芙

m a r c h 2 0 1 3 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | 13

Page 16: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

inspired living

小丑蛋糕架

clown cakes 1960 年代,折叠蛋糕架曾是 Alessi 数一数

二的畅销商品,但过没多久便不再流行。

就像营运长 Alessio Alessi 说的:「然后就

销声匿迹了。」自 70 年代起,Alessi 产品

目录上就未再出现蛋糕架的踪迹。

最近 Alessi 重回这个曾经熟悉的领域,

推出玩心十足的全新设计,宣告艺术蛋糕

架重回市场。荷兰设计师 Marcel Wanders融入自己热爱的马戏团及马戏表演者元素,

重新演绎 60 年代经典「art. 898」设计系

列蛋糕架,打造「Fatman」致敬版。

「Fatman」折合时正面看来浑圆可爱,

侧看细薄一片,有种照着游乐园哈哈镜的

童趣。打开小丑皱折领口时则会出现多层

蛋糕架,可与餐桌上的主角「糕点」相互

映衬。

Alessi’s whimsical “Fatman” folding cake stand is a delightful table piece

In the 1960s, folding cake stands were one of Alessi’s best-selling categories. “Then we lost it,” says Managing Director Alessio Alessi. After falling out of fash-ion, cake stands were removed from the Alessi catalog from the 70s onwards.

Now they are back, and Alessi has retaken the territory in typically playful style. With his interpretation of the company’s famous “art.898” cake stand from the 60s, Dutch designer Marcel

Wanders has found a delightful way to express his fascination with the circus and its performers.

Tubby and round when viewed head on, the folded Fatman looks flat and skinny when seen from the side, an effect reminiscent of funhouse mirrors. And then a turn of the clown’s ruffle opens the multiple tiers of the cake stand and sets the stage for the true stars of the show – the pastries.

H www.Alessi.com

14 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

Page 17: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

inspired living

小丑蛋糕架

clown cakes 1960 年代,折叠蛋糕架曾是 Alessi 数一数

二的畅销商品,但过没多久便不再流行。

就像营运长 Alessio Alessi 说的:「然后就

销声匿迹了。」自 70 年代起,Alessi 产品

目录上就未再出现蛋糕架的踪迹。

最近 Alessi 重回这个曾经熟悉的领域,

推出玩心十足的全新设计,宣告艺术蛋糕

架重回市场。荷兰设计师 Marcel Wanders融入自己热爱的马戏团及马戏表演者元素,

重新演绎 60 年代经典「art. 898」设计系

列蛋糕架,打造「Fatman」致敬版。

「Fatman」折合时正面看来浑圆可爱,

侧看细薄一片,有种照着游乐园哈哈镜的

童趣。打开小丑皱折领口时则会出现多层

蛋糕架,可与餐桌上的主角「糕点」相互

映衬。

Alessi’s whimsical “Fatman” folding cake stand is a delightful table piece

In the 1960s, folding cake stands were one of Alessi’s best-selling categories. “Then we lost it,” says Managing Director Alessio Alessi. After falling out of fash-ion, cake stands were removed from the Alessi catalog from the 70s onwards.

Now they are back, and Alessi has retaken the territory in typically playful style. With his interpretation of the company’s famous “art.898” cake stand from the 60s, Dutch designer Marcel

Wanders has found a delightful way to express his fascination with the circus and its performers.

Tubby and round when viewed head on, the folded Fatman looks flat and skinny when seen from the side, an effect reminiscent of funhouse mirrors. And then a turn of the clown’s ruffle opens the multiple tiers of the cake stand and sets the stage for the true stars of the show – the pastries.

H www.Alessi.com

14 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

Blend France’s rich tastes with a pinch of Chinese flavors! From now to April 30, take pleasure in hearty recipes of Foie Gras from

all around the world at Sing Yin Cantonese Dining with unique touches of Chef Bryan Lee. Highlights include Baked Conch

Stuffed with Bulgarian Foie Gras and Mild Curry Fragrance and Marinated Cantonese five spice Elsass Foie Gras.

Reservations and enquiries:

contact [email protected] / 3717 2848

1/F, W Hong Kong, 1 Austin Road West, Kowloon Station, Kowloon

SAVOR THE PERFECT COMBINATION OF WEST AND EAST THROUGH SING YIN FOIE GRAS SETS

w_CFOSS FLAVORS CROSS CULTURES.pdf 1 7/3/13 11:46 AM

Page 18: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

The seduction happens fast. Nespresso’s Lattissima+ is a compact, sexily designed machine. A tempting selection of green-sourced coffee blends are available, all kept fresh in conveniently color-coded, vacuum-sealed capsules. Slip one in, and at the touch of a single button the Lattissima+ brews a cup of espresso, cappuccino, latte macchiato, or lungo, laying down blankets of milk with velvety froth that would make a barista proud. All that takes about one minute. Have a sip (but not if you’re afraid of commitment). If you haven’t already succumbed, you will now. H www.nespresso.com

一饮钟情

love at first sip

Lattissima+ 胶囊咖啡机一用就上手,是一

款设计精美、一体成形的咖啡机,并提供

多款有机咖啡豆混合而成的口味。所有不

同颜色的咖啡胶囊一律真空包装。放一颗

进去,再按下按键,一杯杯盖着丝绒般奶

泡的意式浓缩咖啡、卡布奇诺、拿铁或淡

式意式咖啡就完成了,完美程度就连专业

咖啡师也会为之赞叹。这一切只需一分钟

就能办到。只要你不怕从此爱上它 , 啜一

口吧 ! 假如你还没领略过 Lattissima+ 的魅

力,现在正是时候。

Coffee romantics sometimes resist the idea of drinking java made by a capsule-eating coffee robot. That is, until they’ve met Nespresso’s passion red Lattissima+.

inspired living

16 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

Page 19: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

The seduction happens fast. Nespresso’s Lattissima+ is a compact, sexily designed machine. A tempting selection of green-sourced coffee blends are available, all kept fresh in conveniently color-coded, vacuum-sealed capsules. Slip one in, and at the touch of a single button the Lattissima+ brews a cup of espresso, cappuccino, latte macchiato, or lungo, laying down blankets of milk with velvety froth that would make a barista proud. All that takes about one minute. Have a sip (but not if you’re afraid of commitment). If you haven’t already succumbed, you will now. H www.nespresso.com

一饮钟情

love at first sip

Lattissima+ 胶囊咖啡机一用就上手,是一

款设计精美、一体成形的咖啡机,并提供

多款有机咖啡豆混合而成的口味。所有不

同颜色的咖啡胶囊一律真空包装。放一颗

进去,再按下按键,一杯杯盖着丝绒般奶

泡的意式浓缩咖啡、卡布奇诺、拿铁或淡

式意式咖啡就完成了,完美程度就连专业

咖啡师也会为之赞叹。这一切只需一分钟

就能办到。只要你不怕从此爱上它 , 啜一

口吧 ! 假如你还没领略过 Lattissima+ 的魅

力,现在正是时候。

Coffee romantics sometimes resist the idea of drinking java made by a capsule-eating coffee robot. That is, until they’ve met Nespresso’s passion red Lattissima+.

inspired living

16 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

Page 20: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

Sponsored Feature

Banyan Tree Macau’s Saffron strikes a satisfying balance with classic and contemporary Thai cuisine

perfect balance完美平衡点

For SaFFron’S CheF de CuiSine, Gina Pungjaroenkijkul, life is all about balance. Forget work-life balance, because that’s out of the question for any chef de cuisine worth her salt. And Chef Gina is definitely worth her salt – and her sugar, and her lime juice, and her chilies too. What she really means is the careful balance of fun-damental flavors and aromas that define Thai cuisine.

“Balance makes a dish tastier,” she explains. “In a salad, we have three fla-vors in the sauce. The first must be sour, followed by salty and sweet. For curry, a little salty and not too sweet. In tom yum, we mix sour and salty, not too sweet – the

sweetness comes from the prawns.”Chef Gina’s expertise derives from a

deep understanding of her ingredients – how the tiger prawns in Saffron’s signature tom yum goong differ, for example, from the river prawns in the tom yum goong mae nam – and her ability to make incremental adjustments to accommodate the nuanced differences they bring in flavor, aroma and color.

With Saffron’s new Crustacean Promo-tion menu, which is available all through March, Chef Gina balances familiar favorites with inventive new dishes she is eager to introduce to diners. The menu starts with the restaurant’s ever popular

seafood platter on ice: sea whelk, cherry stone clams, New Zealand mussels, and Hokkaido scallops. Among the choices for the main course are a rich, wok-fried lob-ster with oyster sauce, and one of Chef Gina’s creative original dishes: a mussels and pineapple curry with Kaffir lime, served in half a pineapple shell.

“Our curry starts with fresh ingredients. And then we have to take time to cook and reduce it. Only when you take enough time can the flavor come out,” she says. “I want people to try this dish!”

If Chef Gina is recommending it, expect a lively, delicious and perfectly balanced medley of flavors.

Saffron Chef de Cuisine Gina Pungjaroenkijkul

18 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

Page 21: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

Sponsored Feature

Banyan Tree Macau’s Saffron strikes a satisfying balance with classic and contemporary Thai cuisine

perfect balance完美平衡点

For SaFFron’S CheF de CuiSine, Gina Pungjaroenkijkul, life is all about balance. Forget work-life balance, because that’s out of the question for any chef de cuisine worth her salt. And Chef Gina is definitely worth her salt – and her sugar, and her lime juice, and her chilies too. What she really means is the careful balance of fun-damental flavors and aromas that define Thai cuisine.

“Balance makes a dish tastier,” she explains. “In a salad, we have three fla-vors in the sauce. The first must be sour, followed by salty and sweet. For curry, a little salty and not too sweet. In tom yum, we mix sour and salty, not too sweet – the

sweetness comes from the prawns.”Chef Gina’s expertise derives from a

deep understanding of her ingredients – how the tiger prawns in Saffron’s signature tom yum goong differ, for example, from the river prawns in the tom yum goong mae nam – and her ability to make incremental adjustments to accommodate the nuanced differences they bring in flavor, aroma and color.

With Saffron’s new Crustacean Promo-tion menu, which is available all through March, Chef Gina balances familiar favorites with inventive new dishes she is eager to introduce to diners. The menu starts with the restaurant’s ever popular

seafood platter on ice: sea whelk, cherry stone clams, New Zealand mussels, and Hokkaido scallops. Among the choices for the main course are a rich, wok-fried lob-ster with oyster sauce, and one of Chef Gina’s creative original dishes: a mussels and pineapple curry with Kaffir lime, served in half a pineapple shell.

“Our curry starts with fresh ingredients. And then we have to take time to cook and reduce it. Only when you take enough time can the flavor come out,” she says. “I want people to try this dish!”

If Chef Gina is recommending it, expect a lively, delicious and perfectly balanced medley of flavors.

Saffron Chef de Cuisine Gina Pungjaroenkijkul

18 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

Sponsored Feature

对「尚坊」的厨师长 Gina Pungjaroenkijkul 而言,生活在于平衡。然而工作和生活间

的平衡却另当别论,因为这对任何称职的

厨师长而言是可望不可及。Gina 不仅称职,

她精湛的厨艺更完美呈现出泰式料理酸、

甜、辣多层次的味道。她认为平衡就是泰

式料理的基本味道和各式香草细腻微妙的

平衡感。

她解释道:「平衡感让一道菜更美味。

泰式色拉的淋酱有三种味道 : 首先是酸味,

然后是咸味和甜味。 咖喱要略咸,不能太

甜。酸辣汤则融合了酸味和咸味,也不能

太甜。甜味完全来自鲜虾的自然甘甜。」

Gina 的厨艺专长源自对所用食材深

刻的了解 – 例如该餐厅的招牌菜鲜虾酸辣

汤中所用的虎虾,就不同于湄南酸辣汤中

所用的河虾 – 以及依照食材在色香味上所

带来的细微差别增减用量的能力。

随着该餐厅新推出了三月份贝壳类

海鲜当季菜单,Gina 的新创菜色中包括

用最受欢迎的水产烹调出鲜美平衡的口

味。菜单的前菜是该餐厅一直广受欢迎

的海鲜拼盘 :有海螺、石蛤、新西兰青

口、及北海道扇贝。主菜的选择包括浓

郁的蚝油锅炒龙虾和 Gina 的一道原创

料理 :盛在切半挖空菠萝内的菠萝咖喱

烩青口。

她表示:「我们的咖喱用新鲜食材细

熬慢炖到浓缩入味。炖煮的时间一定要够

久,味道才会出来。希望客人能够试试这

道菜!」 如果是厨师长 Gina 推荐的菜色,

滋味绝对会丰富、和谐而鲜美!

Saffron 尚坊 G/F, Banyan Tree Macau, Galaxy Macau, Avenida Marginal Flor de Lotus, Cotai, Coloane-Taipa 路氹蓮花海濱大馬路澳門悅榕莊地下 G40

5 Thai q +853 8883 6061

12:00-15:00; 18:00-23:00 MOP 151- 300ACasual

Seafood platter of sea whelk, cherry stone clams, New

Zealand mussels, and Hokkaido scallops

有海螺、石蛤、新西

兰青口、及北海道扇

贝的海皇拼盘

New Zealand mussels with traditional pineapple curry 菠萝咖喱烩青口

Wok-fried lobster with cashews, sweet chili paste and oyster sauce 酱爆龙虾

m a r c h 2 0 1 3 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | 19

Page 22: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

At Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, Chef Vincent Thierry and the Caprice team deliver world class cuisine through continual growth and innovation

written in the stars

星級料理

20 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

Raw langoustine cannelloni with marinated salmon and Sologne caviar sits atop chilled lemon grass jelly and is

garnished with imported herbs and vegetables.

香腌三文鱼卷酿螯龙虾、香茅啫喱配特级鱼子酱,底下

饰以沁凉的香茅冻、进口香草及蔬菜。

Page 23: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

Raw langoustine cannelloni with marinated salmon and Sologne caviar sits atop chilled lemon grass jelly and is

garnished with imported herbs and vegetables.

香腌三文鱼卷酿螯龙虾、香茅啫喱配特级鱼子酱,底下

饰以沁凉的香茅冻、进口香草及蔬菜。

Page 24: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

Vincent thierry had just completed a two-year apprenticeship in the south of France and was looking for a permanent position. His older brother, already a chef in Paris, handed him a book full of restaurant names and addresses to use as a reference. It was a Michelin Guide. Vincent sent out a wave of letters, mostly to two- and three-star restau-rants, though at the time, he says, “I didn’t even know what that meant.”

One of the first responses was from then three-star Restaurant Taillevent in Paris. “That was very important for me.” Thriving on the challenge of learning and improving, Vincent worked in a series of top-notch kitchens. Each move was made with purpose. At places ranging from a strict, disciplined “yes Chef!” kitchen to a smaller, family-run restaurant, Vincent experienced different management styles and learned new cooking techniques.

“You have to move to catch style and experience from many different chefs. You find different techniques. It’s what makes you stronger. And that is very important for your career,” Vincent explains. “Your bag is never full, but when it starts to be full, you are ready to try on your own.”

Years later, Chef Vincent’s resume reads like a version of the Michelin Guide he once used as a phonebook, and he now helms the three-star Caprice, one of the most highly regarded French restaurants in the world. Vincent’s refined approach emphasizes top quality ingredients, taste, innovation and a sincere appreciation for the contributions made by his team.

Caprice’s langoustine cannelloni is a perfect example. Vincent starts with raw shellfish as the central ingredient. “You have to push yourself to be creative. It’s art. It’s funny – you never know where an idea might come from. Sometimes it’s a book I’m read-ing. Or it might be the shape of a pillow I see.”

As he layers in other ingredients, Vin-cent is always thinking about taste. “For me, taste is first, and you can’t get great taste without great starting products.” He uses

customers are very tough. They push you to be better. If we’re still here, it’s because every day we grow as a team.”

Learn more about San Pellegrino at www.jebsenfinewines.com.

mostly imported, seasonal ingredients: imported, to ensure consistency in quality and flavor, something smaller local farms cannot guarantee in quantity; and sea-sonal, for the freshest possible products. “I’m definitely fighting to serve products in season. When the season finishes, I stop.”

The presentation of the langoustine and salmon as cannelloni, with the del-icately placed vegetable garnish, is a team effort. “Alone, I am nothing,” says Vincent. “I can serve six people, maybe. But I cannot serve sixty people lunch and dinner. It’s nonstop: prepare, send to the customer, prepare, send, create. Also when you start the decoration, the plate needs a lot of small hands.”

It is this mutual respect between head chef and team that has led to a remarka-ble staff retention rate, surely a factor in the restaurant’s eight-year success. “Hong Kong

Bresse pigeon wrapped and baked with foie gras, Périgord black truffle, Swiss chard and puff pastry, accompanied by conchiglioni stuffed with Swiss chard and served with S. Pellegrino sparkling water.

酥皮乳鸽酿鸭肝伴黑松露菌、 再加上当中夹有瑞士白菜的大贝壳螺形意大利面,搭配意大利圣培露含气矿泉水。

22 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

Page 25: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

Vincent thierry had just completed a two-year apprenticeship in the south of France and was looking for a permanent position. His older brother, already a chef in Paris, handed him a book full of restaurant names and addresses to use as a reference. It was a Michelin Guide. Vincent sent out a wave of letters, mostly to two- and three-star restau-rants, though at the time, he says, “I didn’t even know what that meant.”

One of the first responses was from then three-star Restaurant Taillevent in Paris. “That was very important for me.” Thriving on the challenge of learning and improving, Vincent worked in a series of top-notch kitchens. Each move was made with purpose. At places ranging from a strict, disciplined “yes Chef!” kitchen to a smaller, family-run restaurant, Vincent experienced different management styles and learned new cooking techniques.

“You have to move to catch style and experience from many different chefs. You find different techniques. It’s what makes you stronger. And that is very important for your career,” Vincent explains. “Your bag is never full, but when it starts to be full, you are ready to try on your own.”

Years later, Chef Vincent’s resume reads like a version of the Michelin Guide he once used as a phonebook, and he now helms the three-star Caprice, one of the most highly regarded French restaurants in the world. Vincent’s refined approach emphasizes top quality ingredients, taste, innovation and a sincere appreciation for the contributions made by his team.

Caprice’s langoustine cannelloni is a perfect example. Vincent starts with raw shellfish as the central ingredient. “You have to push yourself to be creative. It’s art. It’s funny – you never know where an idea might come from. Sometimes it’s a book I’m read-ing. Or it might be the shape of a pillow I see.”

As he layers in other ingredients, Vin-cent is always thinking about taste. “For me, taste is first, and you can’t get great taste without great starting products.” He uses

customers are very tough. They push you to be better. If we’re still here, it’s because every day we grow as a team.”

Learn more about San Pellegrino at www.jebsenfinewines.com.

mostly imported, seasonal ingredients: imported, to ensure consistency in quality and flavor, something smaller local farms cannot guarantee in quantity; and sea-sonal, for the freshest possible products. “I’m definitely fighting to serve products in season. When the season finishes, I stop.”

The presentation of the langoustine and salmon as cannelloni, with the del-icately placed vegetable garnish, is a team effort. “Alone, I am nothing,” says Vincent. “I can serve six people, maybe. But I cannot serve sixty people lunch and dinner. It’s nonstop: prepare, send to the customer, prepare, send, create. Also when you start the decoration, the plate needs a lot of small hands.”

It is this mutual respect between head chef and team that has led to a remarka-ble staff retention rate, surely a factor in the restaurant’s eight-year success. “Hong Kong

Bresse pigeon wrapped and baked with foie gras, Périgord black truffle, Swiss chard and puff pastry, accompanied by conchiglioni stuffed with Swiss chard and served with S. Pellegrino sparkling water.

酥皮乳鸽酿鸭肝伴黑松露菌、 再加上当中夹有瑞士白菜的大贝壳螺形意大利面,搭配意大利圣培露含气矿泉水。

22 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

当 Vincent Thierry 刚在法国南部结束为期

两年的餐饮专科,他哥哥已经在巴黎一家

餐厅当厨师。当时,哥哥给了他一本米其

林指南,他便照着上头的地址寄出许多封

应征信,多半是两星或三星的餐厅。

最先回复的包括巴黎一家三星餐厅

Taillevent。「收到他们的回复,对我来说意

义重大。」于是就此经历了他一连串的挑战

与成长。之后他陆续在几家知名的餐厅中

历练。他从不盲目换工作,每次跳槽都有

特定的目的。他待过管理严格的厨房 ( 在

那里你只能回答:「是!主厨。」) ;也待过

像个家庭般温馨的小餐厅,并且从中体验

不同的管理风格,学会许多新的烹饪技巧。

Vincent 进一步说明:「一名厨师必须

跟其他不同的厨师学习,累积经验,培养

风格。唯有这样,你才能变得更强,才能

拓展自己的生涯。」他又说:「学习是没有

止尽的,不过当你发现好像已经学得差不

多时,就表示你可以开始独立了。」

数年后,许多米其林餐厅都洋洋洒洒列

在 Vincent 的履历上,跟他当年第一次拿到

的米其林指南差不多。现在他在全球首屈一

指的三星级法国餐厅 Caprice 当主厨。重视

食材质量、着重品味、敢于革新、由衷赏识

下属的付出,均塑造了他今日的成功。

香腌三文鱼卷酿螯龙虾就是个极好的

例子。Vincent 选择生的贝壳类当作主要食

材。「你得激励自己更有创意,烹饪是门艺

术。有趣的是,你永远不知道想法是从哪

冒出来的,可能来自我在读的一本书,也

可能是因为看到一个枕头的形状。」

再来是放入其他食材,他对口味十分

看重:「若不慎选食材,就不可能做出好味

道的料理。」为了确保质量及风味不变,他

大多使用进口最新鲜的当季食材。「我坚持

只供应当季食物。」

用龙虾及三文鱼做肉卷,再一一摆放

蔬菜装饰,要细致完美,便需要通力合作。

Vincent 说:「光靠我一人是办不到的。或

许我可以服务六个客人,但我不可能服务

六十位午、晚餐的客人。」

正是主厨与团队之间的互相尊重,人

员甚少流动,也带来这家餐厅八年的荣景。

「香港的客人很挑剔,推动着你更臻完美。

如果我们能长久留在这里,是因为我们的

团队每天都在进步。」 Caprice Chef Vincent Thierry

m a r c h 2 0 1 3 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | 23

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tasting notes

Local couple bring their love of pastry, coffee, and travel home to Macau

the happiness of kafka卡夫卡的幸福

Pastry Chef Nicole Lei

糕点主厨李润怡

Page 27: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

tasting notes

Local couple bring their love of pastry, coffee, and travel home to Macau

the happiness of kafka卡夫卡的幸福

Pastry Chef Nicole Lei

糕点主厨李润怡

tasting notes

在一间澳门新颖、时尚且

为了向捷克作家致敬而命

名的卡夫卡咖啡厅( Kafka Sweets and Gourmandises),上半部墙面布满 Moleskine笔记本的装饰。

「卡夫卡是我最喜欢的

作家,」店主之一的 Jerry Lei 说。「我在布拉格待了

很长的时间,沈浸在他的

作品中。而在澳门的店也

恰好位于布拉格街上,真

是命中注定。」

旅居欧洲的日子里,

身为咖啡师的 Jerry 钻研咖啡文化,

而太太 Nicole 则在蓝带国际烹饪学院精进

制作糕点的技术。她说:「我在巴黎爱上

了糕点。」

许多 Nicole 的糕点创意源自夫妻俩的

旅行经验。她美味得令人欣喜的杯子蛋糕

皆取了极富意象的名字。由于夫妻俩热爱

勃根地红酒,Nicole 便以苹果和黑醋栗呈

现红酒的风味与香气,创作出一款名为「勃

根地滋味」的甜点。「蒙马特心情」则是以

榛果和蛋奶油焦糖来勾勒出他们的回忆。

「甜点会让人感到幸福,」Nicole 说「也

会让我感到幸福。」

Moleskine notebooks line the walls of Kafka Sweets and Gourmandises, one of Macau’s newest and coolest cafes, in homage to the Czech author for whom the café is named.

“Kafka is my favorite author,” says co-owner Jerry Lei. “I spent a lot of time in Prague, surrounded by his work. In Macau, the name of the street where Kafka is located means ‘Prague’ in Chinese – destiny.”

During a long stay in Europe, while barista Jerry was exploring the coffee cul-ture, his wife Nicole was perfecting her pastry skills at Cordon Bleu. “I fell in love with pastry in Paris,” she says.

Many of Nicole’s pastry creations are inspired by the couple’s travels. Her deli-cious and delightfully bright cupcakes all have evocative names. The couple loves Burgundy wine, so Nicole created “The Scent of Burgundy,” which uses green apple and blackcurrant to capture the rich flavor and aroma of a fine Burgundy. “In the Mood of Montmarte” is a memory made of hazel-nut and crème brûlée.

“Dessert makes people happy,” says Nicole. “And that makes me happy.”

Caramel Honey Toast 焦糖蜂蜜吐司

ABOVE

Top Row (L-R): Le Petit Prince, Tsujiri, and Waltz for Raspberry

Bottom Row: Sweet Dating, The Scent of Burgundy, and In the Mood of Montmartre

上排(由左至右):小王子、都路理、

覆盆子圆舞曲

下排:甜蜜约会、勃根地滋味、蒙马特心情

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kitchen conversations

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kitchen conversations

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In addition to his work as Pastry Chef at Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, Grégoire Michaud maintains an always curious and insightful pastry blog, and is the author of a series of engaging cookbooks, including one with an essential pastry maxim as its title: Never Skip Dessert. Whether he is cooking, writing or talking pastry, the love and enthusiasm Chef Grégoire has for his work always shines through. Tasting Kitchen spoke with him recently about the pastry life.

Grégoire Michaud (闵言乐) 身分

可多了,除了是香港四季酒店的糕

点主厨外,也撰写博客,经常在上

面发表有趣又发人深省的看法,

还出版了一系列十分有意思的烹

饪书,其中一本便以一句经典名

言Never Skip Dessert当作书名,

中文书名为「法式甜品教室」。

无论是做甜点 、写甜点、或谈甜

点, Grégoire对工作的热爱总是

展露无遗。Tasting Kitchen最近前

去访问他,请他谈谈甜点人生。

the sweet life甜蜜的糕点人生

What makes pastry chefs special? Do you need a certain kind of personality to succeed with pastry?

I always say pastry chefs are crazy, because we always need to think outside – never mind the box, but outside of every-thing. Everyday it is challenging, and if you don’t have these hints of craziness you will always stay stuck in the same area of things you do. If you run a restaurant for ten years, you need to have a lot of resources in your head to keep coming up with new things. I think what makes a good pastry chef are his vision and principles more than anything else. It means you believe in something. You follow through and keep true to yourself.

You need to be extremely passionate. If you are not passionate, you might as well stay home … because it is too tough. You sacrifice a lot of your life, you are here when people are enjoying parties, you are working, and not many people will invite you to eat at their homes because you are a chef – they are always scared, so you end up in restau-rants. The hours are worse than for a savory chef: we do breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and then dinner. The dessert is always the last thing to go on the dinner table, so we are always the last ones here. You see your family less than other people, so it’s commitment and passion that makes us move.

你认为甜点师傅有什么与众不同的地方

吗?是否需要特定的个性才能做好甜点

呢?

我常说甜点师傅总有点疯狂,因为我

们必须跳出框框。 每天都是新的挑战,若

你没有一点疯狂因子的话,你就会一成不

变。假如你经营一家餐厅达十年之久,你

脑子里得有源源不绝的想法,才能让餐厅

推陈出新。我认为优秀的甜点师傅最重要

的是有远见、有原则,也就是你必须具有

信念,一以贯之,只做自己认为对的事。

同时甜点师傅还必须充满热情, 因为

做甜点真的很辛苦,你得牺牲许多时间,

大家开心参加派对时,你总是待在厨房;

此外很少人会请你去他家用餐,毕竟你是

个厨师,他们多少有点忌惮; 而且我们比

一般风味料理的厨师还辛苦,要做早、中、

晚餐,外加下午茶。甜点又总是最后一道

上来,因此我们都是待到最晚的一群。你

没什么时间跟家人相处,是执着与热情支

持我们继续做下去。

做甜点跟做其他风味料理有何不同?这两

种不同的工作是如何互相影响的? 对我们来说,材料跟味道最重要 。我

们负责设计,因为这是我们的强项:设计、

布置、摆放,让一切更有型,我发现其他

菜色都会从我们的设计当中得到启发。比

方说,甜点一向以长条方式摆放,一侧缀

以三个小装饰,现在你会发现其他风味料

理也是一样。这种影响是互相的。目前把

kitchen conversations

m a r c h 2 0 1 3 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | 27

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How is pastry work different from savory cooking? How do the two sides of the kitchen influence each other?

For us it’s all about the ingredients and the flavor, and it’s the same for them – we all want to make delicious food. We come up with designs, because that is probably what we do best: designing, layout, creating shapes, and I see a lot of savory food inspired from that. For example, a long rectangle with three things on the side – that’s very common in desserts, and now you are seeing it in savory food too. The crossover goes both ways. At the moment there is quite a trend with using vegetables in dessert – oil infused with herbs, which I like to use, maybe some techniques to cream vegetables. It’s not something you do every day, but it’s very interesting to incorpo-rate those things into dessert. You see parsnip, green peas, arugula and herbs coming into desserts. I’m a fan of using infused oil with herbs – it brings a great flavor contrast to a dish. I like essential oils, different flavors, like sandalwood or maybe pine tree.

Do pastry chefs experience a greater sense of freedom, and with that free-dom, extra pressure to be inventive?

The ingredients we work with are more versatile compared with savory chefs. A slice of beef or a steak is very much what it is, but we can work with elements like chocolate or sugar and we can shape and sculpt them, so in terms of design and layout we have more freedom to play. Again, I think this comes back to your style and your beliefs. As you grow, you read a lot of books and magazines, you get inspired by other people, and then at some point you become your own self with your own products and dishes. The freedom you take is your own. If you want to go insane on the plate, you can. We have a lot of possi-bilities, but still, it has to make sense to the people who are eating. I like to keep things authentic, rustic and classic.

Which ingredients are your current favorites?

My favorite ingredients to work with are fresh ingredients. I love chocolate too, but I really like the fruits and herbs and flowers of the moment, whatever is in season. I think this is your playground, you have the ingre-dients and you are free to play with them however you want to. I think if you have good quality ingredients then you are half-way there. We have some great figs from an organic farm here, and you don’t have to do much with them, they already taste so good. You just tweak a little and you are there – it’s simple.

Does the need for precision and con-sistency in a pastry kitchen ever inhibit your creativity?

Everyone in pastry has a ruler in his pocket, because everything has to be

square and precise. Everything is consist-ent and clean. If you have a mountain of cake, layers that are all different shapes and thicknesses – that’s not appealing. But when it comes to plating the dessert, I think this is where you can play. Pastry can be a beautiful art.

What is the most satisfying aspect of the pastry life?

Making life sweeter for people brings fabulous rewards. We create moments. We spend hours preparing people’s dreams and within minutes, it all disappears into their stomachs. Yet these moments we create mean everything to us. Every time we make someone smile, we feel like we’ve won, we feel like we’ve made it, and we are proud.

kitchen conversations

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Page 31: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

How is pastry work different from savory cooking? How do the two sides of the kitchen influence each other?

For us it’s all about the ingredients and the flavor, and it’s the same for them – we all want to make delicious food. We come up with designs, because that is probably what we do best: designing, layout, creating shapes, and I see a lot of savory food inspired from that. For example, a long rectangle with three things on the side – that’s very common in desserts, and now you are seeing it in savory food too. The crossover goes both ways. At the moment there is quite a trend with using vegetables in dessert – oil infused with herbs, which I like to use, maybe some techniques to cream vegetables. It’s not something you do every day, but it’s very interesting to incorpo-rate those things into dessert. You see parsnip, green peas, arugula and herbs coming into desserts. I’m a fan of using infused oil with herbs – it brings a great flavor contrast to a dish. I like essential oils, different flavors, like sandalwood or maybe pine tree.

Do pastry chefs experience a greater sense of freedom, and with that free-dom, extra pressure to be inventive?

The ingredients we work with are more versatile compared with savory chefs. A slice of beef or a steak is very much what it is, but we can work with elements like chocolate or sugar and we can shape and sculpt them, so in terms of design and layout we have more freedom to play. Again, I think this comes back to your style and your beliefs. As you grow, you read a lot of books and magazines, you get inspired by other people, and then at some point you become your own self with your own products and dishes. The freedom you take is your own. If you want to go insane on the plate, you can. We have a lot of possi-bilities, but still, it has to make sense to the people who are eating. I like to keep things authentic, rustic and classic.

Which ingredients are your current favorites?

My favorite ingredients to work with are fresh ingredients. I love chocolate too, but I really like the fruits and herbs and flowers of the moment, whatever is in season. I think this is your playground, you have the ingre-dients and you are free to play with them however you want to. I think if you have good quality ingredients then you are half-way there. We have some great figs from an organic farm here, and you don’t have to do much with them, they already taste so good. You just tweak a little and you are there – it’s simple.

Does the need for precision and con-sistency in a pastry kitchen ever inhibit your creativity?

Everyone in pastry has a ruler in his pocket, because everything has to be

square and precise. Everything is consist-ent and clean. If you have a mountain of cake, layers that are all different shapes and thicknesses – that’s not appealing. But when it comes to plating the dessert, I think this is where you can play. Pastry can be a beautiful art.

What is the most satisfying aspect of the pastry life?

Making life sweeter for people brings fabulous rewards. We create moments. We spend hours preparing people’s dreams and within minutes, it all disappears into their stomachs. Yet these moments we create mean everything to us. Every time we make someone smile, we feel like we’ve won, we feel like we’ve made it, and we are proud.

kitchen conversations

28 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

蔬菜纳入甜点已开始流行,像是草本浸泡

油(用各式香草浸泡在食油中以取其芬芳),

这也是我喜欢的做法,或是一些将蔬菜做

成奶油的技巧。 还有像是防风草、豆类、

做色拉的芝麻菜以及各种香草都可以加到

甜点中。我很爱用草本浸泡油,可以带出

别的食材的原味。精华油我也喜欢,像是

白檀或松树,香气都很独特。

甜点师傅是否比较自由,也因为如此更有

开发创意的压力? 跟一般风味料理厨师比起来,我们要

处理的材料是比较多变的。一片牛肉或

牛排就是那样,但我们用的材料包括巧

克力或糖,会在制作过程中给它们塑型 ;

也就是如果以设计的角度来看,我们有

较大挥洒的空间。当然我想这又回到了

一个人的风格跟信念。你在成长过程中,

读了许多书跟杂志,也认识一些对你有启

发的人,然后在某一个时点上,你变成

今天的自己,做出只有你才会做的食物。

这份自由是在你自己手上。假如你想加点

疯狂创意,那也由得你。我们可以尽情

发挥,不过最后还是要考虑到吃的客人,

不能让他们觉得太莫名其妙。我喜欢保

留食物真正的风味,那是最质朴的经典

原味。

你目前最喜欢用什么食材? 我最喜欢用新鲜材料做东西。我很爱

巧克力,也喜欢随季节选用当季水果、草

本植物跟花卉。我认为厨房就是游乐场,

你手边有材料,可以自由搭配,做出你想

要的东西来。我觉得食材好就成功了一半。

我们跟本地一家有机农场合作,这家农场

生产很好的无花果,风味极佳,无须再多

雕饰。只要拧几下,摆成你要的样子就行了,

非常简单。

甜点厨房要求准确、一致,这会限制你的

创意吗?

每个做甜点的人口袋里都有一把尺,

因为你要端出来的东西一丝一毫也马虎不

得,必须妥贴端正,保持干净,不能前后

不一。举例来说,你做一个多层大蛋糕,

每一层的厚度跟形状都不一样,这样就会

很不好看。但如何把甜点放在盘子上,我

想就是你玩创意的时候。甜点是非常美丽

的艺术。

你认为当甜点师傅最棒的一点是什么?

让客人因为吃甜点变得愉快,就是最

棒的报酬了。我们创造美妙时刻,花上几

小时替客人圆梦,但这些美味甜点不到几

分钟就进了客人的胃。然而短暂的美妙时

刻对我们来说意义非凡。每一次看到客人

的微笑,我们就觉得又赢了一次,我们办

到了!因此为自己感到骄傲。

kitchen conversations

Fig Beignet: organic figs in batter, dipped in icing sugar

with frozen lemon yogurt and blackcurrant coulis.

无花果酥:有机无花

果、包上糖霜、冰柠檬优

乳,黑醋栗汁点缀。

m a r c h 2 0 1 3 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | 29

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tasting notes

Tadashi Nakamura, Chef Pâtissier at Hong Kong’s three-Michelin-starred L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, fell in love with French pas-tries as a young boy, while shopping with his mother in his native Japan. “I couldn’t be a businessman and work in an office. I don’t like to wear a necktie,” he laughs. “So I trained as a pastry chef.”

Chef Nakamura may not wear a necktie, but he is an executive. He takes command of the kitchen seriously, insisting on excep-tional quality ingredients, commitment from his team, and a rigorous approach to pastry. “Every day we have to do the same job, but every day is a challenge. It’s not easy just because we have done it before.” He has a knack for knowing how to combine

organization and creativity. “We need to make rules and follow them,” he says. “But if you only follow rules you cannot become a pastry chef. You need more – you need aspiration. And you need to understand why things go wrong. You can learn from mistakes.”

His relationship with ingredients is deep and complex. Nakamura feels the outcome of a recipe can be influenced by weather, mood and the individual personalities of the chefs.

“Ten chefs will make ten different mac-arons even if their recipes are similar. You can tell the difference in texture. When we make cakes, we talk to the ingredients. If we are angry, we lose the connection. My maca-ron recipe is different in summer and winter.

The cooking time in summer is twelve min-utes, in winter fourteen.”

Chef Nakamura is faithful to classic rec-ipes, putting a slight spin on them to make something unique. “I create at my own pace. I can change small things – add something, just a twist.” He understands the need for light-ness and freshness. Pointing to a delicate, trembling slice of white chocolate passion fruit cake, he elaborates: “The sponge has no oil – egg white and flour, but no butter. On top is white chocolate, which is quite heavy. The light sponge creates the right balance.”

“I made a crème brûlée with cinnamon instead of vanilla, and it was wonderful. I felt limited, using only vanilla. Now, making it with cinnamon, I feel unlimited. I feel free.”

Chef Pâtissier Tadashi Nakamura combines executive rigor with creative artistry

free spirit自由灵魂

30 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

Page 33: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

tasting notes

Tadashi Nakamura, Chef Pâtissier at Hong Kong’s three-Michelin-starred L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, fell in love with French pas-tries as a young boy, while shopping with his mother in his native Japan. “I couldn’t be a businessman and work in an office. I don’t like to wear a necktie,” he laughs. “So I trained as a pastry chef.”

Chef Nakamura may not wear a necktie, but he is an executive. He takes command of the kitchen seriously, insisting on excep-tional quality ingredients, commitment from his team, and a rigorous approach to pastry. “Every day we have to do the same job, but every day is a challenge. It’s not easy just because we have done it before.” He has a knack for knowing how to combine

organization and creativity. “We need to make rules and follow them,” he says. “But if you only follow rules you cannot become a pastry chef. You need more – you need aspiration. And you need to understand why things go wrong. You can learn from mistakes.”

His relationship with ingredients is deep and complex. Nakamura feels the outcome of a recipe can be influenced by weather, mood and the individual personalities of the chefs.

“Ten chefs will make ten different mac-arons even if their recipes are similar. You can tell the difference in texture. When we make cakes, we talk to the ingredients. If we are angry, we lose the connection. My maca-ron recipe is different in summer and winter.

The cooking time in summer is twelve min-utes, in winter fourteen.”

Chef Nakamura is faithful to classic rec-ipes, putting a slight spin on them to make something unique. “I create at my own pace. I can change small things – add something, just a twist.” He understands the need for light-ness and freshness. Pointing to a delicate, trembling slice of white chocolate passion fruit cake, he elaborates: “The sponge has no oil – egg white and flour, but no butter. On top is white chocolate, which is quite heavy. The light sponge creates the right balance.”

“I made a crème brûlée with cinnamon instead of vanilla, and it was wonderful. I felt limited, using only vanilla. Now, making it with cinnamon, I feel unlimited. I feel free.”

Chef Pâtissier Tadashi Nakamura combines executive rigor with creative artistry

free spirit自由灵魂

30 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

只用了蛋白和面粉制作,也没加奶油。蛋

糕外层用了偏重的白巧克力,和口味轻淡

的海绵糕体正好平衡。」

他如此形容自己发现新事物的过程:

「我用肉桂代替香草,做了焦糖鸡蛋布丁,

成果棒极了。我当时觉得只用香草过于局

限,所以现在我改用肉桂。觉得自己不再

受到食谱的限制,感觉好自由。」

tasting notes

中村忠史(Tadashi Nakamura),也就是

香港米其林三星级 Robuchon 法式餐厅

(L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon)的 Chef Pâtis-sier ( 甜点主厨 ),对西式糕点的热爱源自

于年幼时与母亲在祖国日本逛街的经历。

「我可没办法像生意人那样坐办公室,我就

是不喜欢打领带。」他笑着说,「所以我选

择作甜点师傅。」

虽然中村不爱打领带,他却可是个货

真价实的行政主管呢。他对厨房的管理工作

一丝不苟,要求工作团队尽心付出,并坚持

使用质量最好的材料, 以严谨的态度制作糕

点。「尽管每天的工作都一样,但对我们来

说每天都是新的挑战。正因为都是做过的工

作才不容易。」他懂得在行政组织内融入创

意精神。「我们需要制定并遵守规则,」他说。

「不过光是遵守规则并不会让你成为甜点师

傅,你还需要有灵感。此外,你也得知道失

败的原因,才能从错误中学习。」

厨师和食材的关系相当深厚及复杂。他

认为气候、心情,甚至是制作师傅的性格

对食谱皆有影响。「就算是采用相同的食谱,

十位师傅做出来的马卡龙也有十种。这些差

异从点心的质地就可看出。所以在制作蛋糕

时,我们会和食材有沟通。如果我们情绪不

佳,我们和食材之间的连结会中断。还有,

我的夏季与冬季马卡龙食谱也不同。夏天的

制作时间为 12 分钟,而冬天则是 14 分钟。」

拥戴经典食谱的同时,中村也会加入

一些创新想法。「我会依自己的步骤行事,

也会做一些小改变-像是添加一些元素,

一些些就好。」他知道人们对轻淡、新鲜的

需求。他指着一片装饰精美的白巧克力百

香果蛋糕说:「海绵糕体没有使用任何油脂,

Lemon Cake 柠檬蛋糕

White Chocolate and Passion Fruit Cake 白巧克力百香果蛋糕

Macaron Apple 玉桂苹果巧克力马卡龙

Pantone193u 100%Black

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tasting notes

cold hands, warm heart冰冷的双手、温暖的心

大学时,曾在面包店打工的香港 Le Salon de Thé de Joël Robuchon Chef Boulanger ( 面 包 烘 焙 师 ) 武 井 周 彦(Norihiko Takei),在毕业后决定放弃经济学文凭,

因为他发现烘焙面包点心才是他想要的工

作。

制作他那名列香港最佳包点之一的牛

角酥,准备的步骤需长达两日之久。武井

认为这份工作需要纪律和充分的准备。

「因为牛角酥有非常多的层次,制作

时必须倍加小心。使用的面粉和奶油质量

要上乘及新鲜,不可偷工减料。只要肯花

时间,成果会相当不同。」

不过,为什么得花两天来制作牛角酥

呢?武井说出他的秘诀 :「重点在温度。

必须把所有材料冷冻保存,分别在每个制

作阶段取出使用,并随时再次冷藏。绝对

不能让材料的温度降至室温。这个步骤要

一直重复到烘烤牛角酥为止。」

At Le SALon de thé de Joël Robuchon, Chef Boulanger Norihiko Takei takes two days to make his famous croissants. “Croissants have lots of layers, so you have to be extra careful,” he says. “The flour and the butter have to be very good and fresh. No short cuts. If you put in the time, the results are totally different.”

Chef Takei makes his croissants straight, rather than crescent-shaped, so that each light, flaky layer has extra free-dom to rise. Why does it take two days? Takei reveals his secret: “The temperature is the thing. Keep all the ingredients in the freezer. Take them out as you work on each stage, and then replace them to chill again. Never allow the ingredients to come to room temperature, until just before baking the croissants.”

Chef Boulanger Norihiko Takei takes no short cuts while baking some of Hong Kong’s finest viennoiserie

Croissant 牛角酥

Strawberry Danish 草莓丹麦酥

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tasting notes

cold hands, warm heart冰冷的双手、温暖的心

大学时,曾在面包店打工的香港 Le Salon de Thé de Joël Robuchon Chef Boulanger ( 面 包 烘 焙 师 ) 武 井 周 彦(Norihiko Takei),在毕业后决定放弃经济学文凭,

因为他发现烘焙面包点心才是他想要的工

作。

制作他那名列香港最佳包点之一的牛

角酥,准备的步骤需长达两日之久。武井

认为这份工作需要纪律和充分的准备。

「因为牛角酥有非常多的层次,制作

时必须倍加小心。使用的面粉和奶油质量

要上乘及新鲜,不可偷工减料。只要肯花

时间,成果会相当不同。」

不过,为什么得花两天来制作牛角酥

呢?武井说出他的秘诀 :「重点在温度。

必须把所有材料冷冻保存,分别在每个制

作阶段取出使用,并随时再次冷藏。绝对

不能让材料的温度降至室温。这个步骤要

一直重复到烘烤牛角酥为止。」

At Le SALon de thé de Joël Robuchon, Chef Boulanger Norihiko Takei takes two days to make his famous croissants. “Croissants have lots of layers, so you have to be extra careful,” he says. “The flour and the butter have to be very good and fresh. No short cuts. If you put in the time, the results are totally different.”

Chef Takei makes his croissants straight, rather than crescent-shaped, so that each light, flaky layer has extra free-dom to rise. Why does it take two days? Takei reveals his secret: “The temperature is the thing. Keep all the ingredients in the freezer. Take them out as you work on each stage, and then replace them to chill again. Never allow the ingredients to come to room temperature, until just before baking the croissants.”

Chef Boulanger Norihiko Takei takes no short cuts while baking some of Hong Kong’s finest viennoiserie

Croissant 牛角酥

Strawberry Danish 草莓丹麦酥

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tasting notes

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tasting notes

Coco Pastry Chef Jean-Marc Gaucher brings creativity and a bit of craziness to the kitchen

the man in the miraTHE MIRA 的大师

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tasting notes

Coco Pastry Chef Jean-Marc Gaucher brings creativity and a bit of craziness to the kitchen

the man in the miraTHE MIRA 的大师

tasting notes

The Mira Hong Kong 饼房行政总厨 Jean-Marc Gaucher 喜欢於时尚型格之酒店大堂

的 Coco 甜品柜,展示其一系列创意作品。

他说:「我们希望能让 Coco 成为酒店

大堂的一部分,以优雅的风格展现我们酒

店的各式精美甜点。」

极尽妍巧的杯子蛋糕,法式软馅

蛋糕及漂亮的主题蛋糕琳琅满目,

而造型非常特殊的夹心糖,像是只

有来自另一个更先进星球的厨师才

能做得出来。 每片蛋糕皆是手工

制作,而且主题蛋糕天天换,因

此每天都给人新的惊喜。

Jean-Marc 又说:「最让甜点

师傅感到骄傲的,是在一餐结束时

端上色彩缤纷、令人惊喜开心的甜

点。甜点师傅是很特别的一群人,个

性多少有点疯狂。」

Jean-Marc Gaucher, Executive Pastry Chef at The Mira Hong Kong, likes to dis-play his creations front and center in Coco, the stylish café and patisserie located in the hotel lobby.

“We want Coco to be part of the hotel entrance, an elegant showcase of what we have to offer,” he says.

Among the sumptuous cupcakes, petit gateaux and specialty cakes are beautiful, otherworldly bonbons that look like they might have been created by a chef from an advanced planet. Each piece is individually hand-painted, and pieces are done in rotation, so that new temptations appear every day.

“The pride of the pastry chef is to bring something colorful, surprising and fun at the end of the dinner,” says Jean-Marc. “Pas-try chefs are special. You need to be a lit-tle bit crazy.”

Chocolate Mooncakes 巧克力月饼

Heavy Metal Bonbons: honey candy covered in equatorial chocolate 重金属风格夹心糖:当中以

巧克力裹覆的蜂蜜软糖

Whirligig Bonbons: matcha green tea ganache with raspberry in white chocolate 陀螺夹心糖:绿茶甘纳许巧克

力 (含覆盆子馅白巧克力)

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Chef Thomas Liu’s pastries are lovely enough to make you wonder if you’re really meant to eat them – you are

no limits创意无限

Ravishingly beautiful coloRs, exquisite geometries, elegant decorative details—with Chef Thomas Liu’s pastry, the feast starts with the eyes. Visiting Thomas Trillion, the small shop near Victoria Park which he runs with his wife Ada, is satisfying even if you make the mistake of holding to your diet: it’s like stopping in at the gallery of a restlessly inventive pop art sculptor.

“I never learned art in school,” says Thomas. “Because I was never taught, noth-ing blocks my way. There are no rules for me to follow. I can play around. I am free to create.”

His signature cake is a bright orange cube surrounded by a square fence of dark chocolate. A slender line of silver leaves walks over a corner of the cake. “Not too much decoration, I like to keep it simple,” he says. “Simple outside, because it is com-plicated inside.”

tasting notes

美丽迷人的色彩、精湛的几何形状、优雅

的装饰细节 — 甜点厨师 Thomas Liu(吕

德辉)的糕点首先给人视觉飨宴。Tasting Kitchen 有幸造访他和夫人 Ada 在维多利亚

公园旁经营的糕点店 Thomas Trillion,进

入店内彷佛置身在艺廊中,处处可见创意

呼之欲出的波普艺术雕塑作品。即使不巧

在节食中,还是能大饱眼福。

Thomas 表示:「我没学过艺术。也正

因如此,所以一路可以毫无限制。不须遵

循任何规则。可以随心所欲地尝试和创作。」

他的招牌蛋糕设计成亮橙色方块造型,

四周围了一道黑巧克力方篱。再用细细的

一道银叶衔接蛋糕的一角。他说:「不需太

多装饰。我喜欢一切从简,因为蛋糕内部

已经够复杂了。」」

巧妙的外表下隐藏了结构复杂得令人

赞叹的蛋糕。招牌橙色方块蛋糕内部是咖

啡巧克力海绵蛋糕,用香蕉铺成多道环形,

并涂满口感像冻糕 (parfait) 的微酸覆盆子

奶油酱。整体搭配新奇而美味。

Chef Thomas Liu

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Chef Thomas Liu’s pastries are lovely enough to make you wonder if you’re really meant to eat them – you are

no limits创意无限

Ravishingly beautiful coloRs, exquisite geometries, elegant decorative details—with Chef Thomas Liu’s pastry, the feast starts with the eyes. Visiting Thomas Trillion, the small shop near Victoria Park which he runs with his wife Ada, is satisfying even if you make the mistake of holding to your diet: it’s like stopping in at the gallery of a restlessly inventive pop art sculptor.

“I never learned art in school,” says Thomas. “Because I was never taught, noth-ing blocks my way. There are no rules for me to follow. I can play around. I am free to create.”

His signature cake is a bright orange cube surrounded by a square fence of dark chocolate. A slender line of silver leaves walks over a corner of the cake. “Not too much decoration, I like to keep it simple,” he says. “Simple outside, because it is com-plicated inside.”

tasting notes

美丽迷人的色彩、精湛的几何形状、优雅

的装饰细节 — 甜点厨师 Thomas Liu(吕

德辉)的糕点首先给人视觉飨宴。Tasting Kitchen 有幸造访他和夫人 Ada 在维多利亚

公园旁经营的糕点店 Thomas Trillion,进

入店内彷佛置身在艺廊中,处处可见创意

呼之欲出的波普艺术雕塑作品。即使不巧

在节食中,还是能大饱眼福。

Thomas 表示:「我没学过艺术。也正

因如此,所以一路可以毫无限制。不须遵

循任何规则。可以随心所欲地尝试和创作。」

他的招牌蛋糕设计成亮橙色方块造型,

四周围了一道黑巧克力方篱。再用细细的

一道银叶衔接蛋糕的一角。他说:「不需太

多装饰。我喜欢一切从简,因为蛋糕内部

已经够复杂了。」」

巧妙的外表下隐藏了结构复杂得令人

赞叹的蛋糕。招牌橙色方块蛋糕内部是咖

啡巧克力海绵蛋糕,用香蕉铺成多道环形,

并涂满口感像冻糕 (parfait) 的微酸覆盆子

奶油酱。整体搭配新奇而美味。

Chef Thomas Liu

36 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

tasting notes

To form a delicate contrast with the dark chocolate below,

Chef Thomas sprays a finely turned ball of chocolate rattan with gold.

甜点厨师Thomas Liu 为了巧妙

区隔底下的黑巧克力,在上面

加上洒了金粉的巧克力球。

Left: Princess 公主

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tasting notes

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tasting notes

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tasting notes

Bite into one of Chef Thomas’ “Sweetie” cherries. A thin metallic carapace of

chocolate splinters, and then there is a moment of anticipation before your teeth meet the flesh of the cherry. He

has a secret way to keep the fruit plump and juicy, which he doesn’t

share, but once you do get your teeth into the cherry, some really top quality

schnapps oozes out. Crazy delicious.

一口咬下主厨的「甜心」樱桃巧克力

球,首先吃到的是巧克力碎片铺成的

薄薄外壳,以及咬下樱桃前的片刻期

待。他的秘诀是能让樱桃饱满多汁,樱

桃入口时,真正鲜美至极的樱桃香味

在口中化开。真是美味得让人疯狂!

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tasting notesThe upper hemispheres of these delicate chocolate orbs are perforated to offer glimpses of the tempting, raspberry-chocolate filling inside.

这款美味巧克力球的上半部穿

孔,可看到里面诱人的覆盆子

巧克力内馅。

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Page 43: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

tasting notesThe upper hemispheres of these delicate chocolate orbs are perforated to offer glimpses of the tempting, raspberry-chocolate filling inside.

这款美味巧克力球的上半部穿

孔,可看到里面诱人的覆盆子

巧克力内馅。

40 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

tasting notes

The smart surfaces of Chef Thomas’ cakes often do conceal intricately con-structed, wow-inducing interiors. Embedded within the signature orange cube cake, which turns out to be made of coffee-fla-vored chocolate sponge, are rings of fragrant banana and lightly acidic raspberry cream with a parfait-like consistency. All together, it’s off-the-charts delicious.

“I like to eat my signature cake,” says Thomas. “I really like it.”

His father worked for thirty-three years as an engineer at the Peninsula Hotel, and Thomas designs his creations with an engi-neer’s precision, making detailed drawings outlining the thickness and sequence of layers within each cake. He still keeps a book made when he was a fourteen-year-old apprentice, with freehand diagrams, typed instructions and mounted photographs of his first pastries.

Chef Thomas’ delicious designs fuse engineering and art, rigor and playfulness, form and flavor. “A chef should think about the guests, how they eat and how they feel,” he says. “From the first flavor through to the last – and how they feel afterwards. When you watch the guests as they enjoy a piece, and you see that they are happy, smiling, and love it – that is good enough for me.”

And why did he decide to call his shop Thomas Trillion?

“Trillion? It’s because when we create, there are no limits. My idea is to keep going. Non-stop. Trillions of ideas.”

Thomas 说:「我自己也很喜欢吃我的

招牌蛋糕。」

由于他的父亲曾在半岛酒店担任工程

师长达 33 年,Thomas 也以工程师的精准

度设计他的作品,事先以细图勾勒出每个

蛋糕的厚度和内层。他至今仍保留 14 岁当

学徒时的笔记本,里面有他第一次制作的

手绘糕点作品插图、打字说明和照片。

设计其作品时,Thomas 融合了工程与

艺术、严谨与趣味,且色味兼具。他表示,

「糕点师傅应想想客人品尝时的感觉,从第

一口到最后一口的滋味,还有吃完后的感

觉。客人看到糕点时开心微笑,而且喜欢,

对我来说就够了。」

为什么他会选择「Thomas Trillion」这

个店名? 」

「会用『Trillion ( 兆 )』这个字是因为

创意无限。我的想法是持续不断,有数兆

之多的无限灵感。」

Royal 皇家蛋糕

Thomas Liu’s Signature Cake

Thomas Lui 招牌橙方蛋糕

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The pastry you

love the most

will be made

by the people

who most love

to make it

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The pastry you

love the most

will be made

by the people

who most love

to make it

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ervé Lemonon, Executive Pastry Chef at Grand Lapa Macau, gleefully sinks his hands

into a stainless steel bowl full of almond flour and sugar, clenches two fistfuls of powder, pops his hands open and begins mixing things up by wiggling his fingers. He looks like he’s having the time of his life.

“I wake up every day inspired by the wonder of the world around me,” he says.

Chef Hervé radiates joy. His staff love him. Every morn-ing there is a scuffle as various chefs on his team vie with each other to see who will get to help him prepare the buffet. “He isn’t just a chef,” says Junior Chef de Partie Roberto Macalalad. “He is also like a father.”

“I’ve been here for twelve years. I came here as an apprentice,” says Assistant Pastry Chef Leong Kin Man. “We have great teamwork. It’s like a family.”

An atmosphere of calm concentration prevails in the kitchen, until somebody cracks a joke. Then all the chefs erupt into a raucous round of banter. There is a lot of teasing, and laughing, and then things quiet down again as every-body focuses on the work.

Hervé fills a piping bag with a mixture of whipped cream, lemon zest, butter and melted chocolate. Turning away from the petits fours he is decorating, he checks the glaze on a beautiful mango caramel cake a junior chef has finished.

Chatting, laughing, animated, he swings around to another chef, who is dexterously spreading apricot jam on layers of puff pastry. Hervé calls out: “Ah Lei is the fastest Napoleon maker in Macau!” And then with magic speed and precision his own hands go to work, squeezing, piping out gloriously perfect dollops of mousse to top each tiny chocolate tart.

Jr Demi Chef de Partie Kelly Ng is also piping, drawing lovely Chinese characters onto chocolate plaques. Other chefs are busy preparing raspberry and cherry mousse cakes, truffles, egg tarts and Black Forest gateaux, each working steadily at his or her station, occasionally passing each other instruments.

Every now and then, chefs slip in and out through the sliced plastic curtains that protect a treasure vault of a cold storage room. Trolleys there are laden with cakes waiting to be released to customers upstairs. “It’s a great feeling when the cake you just made is sold or eaten straight away,” says Hervé.

The joy and pride the chefs take in their work is conta-gious. Waiters coming from upstairs to collect bread, kitchen porters carrying buckets – everybody lights up as they come into Hervé’s pastry kitchen.

There is a moment when the whole kitchen goes quiet. Everyone in the room is melting something: Hervé is melt-ing caramel, Roberto a redcurrant glaze, Kelly chocolate, and Ah Lei a saucepan of apricot jam. The kitchen is silent apart from a very quiet bubbling.

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Page 47: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

ervé Lemonon, Executive Pastry Chef at Grand Lapa Macau, gleefully sinks his hands

into a stainless steel bowl full of almond flour and sugar, clenches two fistfuls of powder, pops his hands open and begins mixing things up by wiggling his fingers. He looks like he’s having the time of his life.

“I wake up every day inspired by the wonder of the world around me,” he says.

Chef Hervé radiates joy. His staff love him. Every morn-ing there is a scuffle as various chefs on his team vie with each other to see who will get to help him prepare the buffet. “He isn’t just a chef,” says Junior Chef de Partie Roberto Macalalad. “He is also like a father.”

“I’ve been here for twelve years. I came here as an apprentice,” says Assistant Pastry Chef Leong Kin Man. “We have great teamwork. It’s like a family.”

An atmosphere of calm concentration prevails in the kitchen, until somebody cracks a joke. Then all the chefs erupt into a raucous round of banter. There is a lot of teasing, and laughing, and then things quiet down again as every-body focuses on the work.

Hervé fills a piping bag with a mixture of whipped cream, lemon zest, butter and melted chocolate. Turning away from the petits fours he is decorating, he checks the glaze on a beautiful mango caramel cake a junior chef has finished.

Chatting, laughing, animated, he swings around to another chef, who is dexterously spreading apricot jam on layers of puff pastry. Hervé calls out: “Ah Lei is the fastest Napoleon maker in Macau!” And then with magic speed and precision his own hands go to work, squeezing, piping out gloriously perfect dollops of mousse to top each tiny chocolate tart.

Jr Demi Chef de Partie Kelly Ng is also piping, drawing lovely Chinese characters onto chocolate plaques. Other chefs are busy preparing raspberry and cherry mousse cakes, truffles, egg tarts and Black Forest gateaux, each working steadily at his or her station, occasionally passing each other instruments.

Every now and then, chefs slip in and out through the sliced plastic curtains that protect a treasure vault of a cold storage room. Trolleys there are laden with cakes waiting to be released to customers upstairs. “It’s a great feeling when the cake you just made is sold or eaten straight away,” says Hervé.

The joy and pride the chefs take in their work is conta-gious. Waiters coming from upstairs to collect bread, kitchen porters carrying buckets – everybody lights up as they come into Hervé’s pastry kitchen.

There is a moment when the whole kitchen goes quiet. Everyone in the room is melting something: Hervé is melt-ing caramel, Roberto a redcurrant glaze, Kelly chocolate, and Ah Lei a saucepan of apricot jam. The kitchen is silent apart from a very quiet bubbling.

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澳门金丽华酒店行政饼房总厨 Hervé Lemonon 开心地将双

手插到盛满杏仁粉和糖的钢碗里,再一下子张开抓满了粉

的双手,开始揉面。一副乐在其中的样子。

他说: 「每天醒来,周遭世界的奇妙都会带给我灵感。」 总厨 Hervé 整个人散发着喜悦。他的工作人员都很喜欢他。

每天早上他组里不同的厨师都争先恐后想与他一起准备当

日的自助午餐。初级主厨 Roberto Macalalad 表示, 「他不

只是厨师,也像父亲。」 助理饼房厨师梁健文表示:「 我在这里已经十二年了。

一开始是当学徒。我们的团队合作气氛很好,像个大家庭。」 厨房里通常是大家安静地聚精会神,直到有人说了个

笑话。接着,所有厨师们会突然喧笑戏谑成一团。有很多

的相互打趣和大笑。然后,随着大家又开始专注工作,一

切又回归寂静。

Hervé 将混入了柠檬皮、牛油和巧克力酱的鲜奶油装

进奶油袋,装饰好花式小蛋糕后,转身检查一位新手厨师

刚做好的芒果焦糖蛋糕上的糖衣,然后又兴高采烈地转身

对正灵巧地将杏桃果酱铺在层层酥皮上的另一位厨师喊

道,「阿李是全澳门做法式千层酥最快的人!」 然后,双手

又以神奇的速度和精确度开始工作,在每个小巧克力挞上

挤出完美的一圈慕斯。 初级助理主厨吴紫君 (Kelly) 也正用奶油袋在巧克力片

上画出美丽的中文字。其他厨师则忙着准备覆盆子和樱桃

慕斯蛋糕、蛋挞和黑森林蛋糕。每个人都在自己的工作台

上稳健作业,偶尔帮忙把用具递给别人。

厨师们偶尔会进出像是有塑料门帘保护宝库般的冷藏

储存室。里面的推车上放满了等着拿到楼上给宾客的蛋糕。

Hervé 表示: 「刚做好的蛋糕一下子就卖完或被客人吃光,

感觉很棒!」 厨师们对所做成品的喜悦感和骄傲感极具渲染力。从

下楼拿面包的服务生到拿水桶进来的厨房搬运工,每个人

一进到 Hervé 的糕点厨房都是笑容满面。

有时整个厨房会突然安静。每个人都在融东西:

Hervé 在融焦糖,Roberto 在融红醋栗糖衣,Kelly 在融巧

克力,阿李在融一锅杏桃果酱。除了小声的冒泡声之外,

整个厨房鸦雀无声。

“ I wake up every day inspired by the wonder of the world around me.

每天醒来,周遭世界的奇妙都会带给我灵感。”

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Page 52: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

From the left: Junior Chef de Partie Roberto Macalalad, Executive Pastry Chef Hervé Lemonon, First Cook Lei Tak Meng, Jr. Demi Chef de Partie Kelly Ng, Assistant Pastry Chef Leong Kin Man, Senior Chef de Partie Choi Kung Va, First Cook Kenny Ho, First Cook Anny Hoi

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Page 53: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

From the left: Junior Chef de Partie Roberto Macalalad, Executive Pastry Chef Hervé Lemonon, First Cook Lei Tak Meng, Jr. Demi Chef de Partie Kelly Ng, Assistant Pastry Chef Leong Kin Man, Senior Chef de Partie Choi Kung Va, First Cook Kenny Ho, First Cook Anny Hoi

50 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

由左边开始:初级主厨Roberto Macalalad,行政饼房总厨林学晖(Hervé Lemonon),一级厨师李德明, 初级助理主厨吴紫君, 助理饼房厨师梁健文,高级主厨崔冠华, 一级厨师何文伟, 一级厨师许玉园

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The classic Tropézienne recipe has orange and vanilla flavors, but I’ve added some complexity. It’s normally punched with orange blossom syrup. I’ve kept the orange flavor, perking it up with the Grand Marnier and incorporating orange zest inside the dough and cream.

The cake’s cream filling is made with milk infused with jasmine tea, matcha tea, orange zest and vanilla beans. The classic recipe uses buttercream. But I whip this one to make a Chantilly that is white choc-olate-based with cream. In texture and taste, I believe it is more attractive.

There are a lot of ingredients combined in this cake. Sometimes you are trying to add a new layer of flavor. Other times you use one to reinforce or give substance to

The Tropézienne is a classic pastry from the south of France, where I’m also from. I was a young child when I first tried one. The owners of a Saint-Tropez pâtisserie brought a cake along when they came to our house to buy a Vespa. While they were speaking and drinking with my parents, I finished it all by myself!

Back in the 1950s, Brigitte Bardot filmed And God Created Woman on location in Saint-Tropez. The pâtisserie doing the cater-ing brought this amazing little cake to the set along with the baguettes and croissants, and the filming crew fell in love with it. They kept asking for more and more until finally Bardot suggested the cake should be named for Saint-Tropez. And that’s how it became known as the Tropézienne.

「特洛佩的女人」法式巧克力茉莉花茶蛋糕

jasmine tea chocolate tropézienne

This deluxe Tropézienne, created especially for Tasting Kitchen, is an updated version of one of Chef Regis’ childhood favorites

为「Tasting Kitchen美食杂志」特制的精美「特洛佩的女人」(Tropézienne)蛋糕,是主厨Regis儿时美味的现代诠释.

By Regis Monges Pastry Chef at Grand Hyatt Macau

tasting recipe

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Page 55: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

The classic Tropézienne recipe has orange and vanilla flavors, but I’ve added some complexity. It’s normally punched with orange blossom syrup. I’ve kept the orange flavor, perking it up with the Grand Marnier and incorporating orange zest inside the dough and cream.

The cake’s cream filling is made with milk infused with jasmine tea, matcha tea, orange zest and vanilla beans. The classic recipe uses buttercream. But I whip this one to make a Chantilly that is white choc-olate-based with cream. In texture and taste, I believe it is more attractive.

There are a lot of ingredients combined in this cake. Sometimes you are trying to add a new layer of flavor. Other times you use one to reinforce or give substance to

The Tropézienne is a classic pastry from the south of France, where I’m also from. I was a young child when I first tried one. The owners of a Saint-Tropez pâtisserie brought a cake along when they came to our house to buy a Vespa. While they were speaking and drinking with my parents, I finished it all by myself!

Back in the 1950s, Brigitte Bardot filmed And God Created Woman on location in Saint-Tropez. The pâtisserie doing the cater-ing brought this amazing little cake to the set along with the baguettes and croissants, and the filming crew fell in love with it. They kept asking for more and more until finally Bardot suggested the cake should be named for Saint-Tropez. And that’s how it became known as the Tropézienne.

「特洛佩的女人」法式巧克力茉莉花茶蛋糕

jasmine tea chocolate tropézienne

This deluxe Tropézienne, created especially for Tasting Kitchen, is an updated version of one of Chef Regis’ childhood favorites

为「Tasting Kitchen美食杂志」特制的精美「特洛佩的女人」(Tropézienne)蛋糕,是主厨Regis儿时美味的现代诠释.

By Regis Monges Pastry Chef at Grand Hyatt Macau

tasting recipe

52 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

香草籽。相较传统作法,我加入柑曼怡甜

酒(Grand Marnier) 提升味道的层次,并

在内馅及奶油内加入橙皮丁;再以白巧克

力为底,加以奶油为辅。

「特洛佩的女人」里面加了许多配料。

有时是为了创造一种新的风味,有时则是

为了烘托其他配料。白巧克力的味道可能

不突出,但却让口感更为圆滑、柔顺;橙

皮丁及茉莉花茶交叠帮衬、绿茶则提升整

体的茶香及滋味,同时带来一丝青草的清

香。

要一口接一口吃不腻,还要加入一些

滋味口感与主味相反的材料,带给味蕾完

全不同的新鲜感,带酸、酥脆、偏咸甚或

酸味都可以。我加入的是法国南部乡间四

处可见的杏仁。进烤箱烘烤后,放入「特

洛佩的女人」蛋糕里,正好可以发挥画龙

点睛的效果,带出独特的口感与风味。

another. You can’t really taste the white chocolate, but it provides the structure, roundness and smoothness. The orange zest and the jasmine tea layer upon each other. The matcha green tea and the jas-mine tea flavors reinforce each other while also bringing a hint of grass.

In order to appreciate bite after bite, you need to have something that provides con-trast and reverses the balance on your palate. It could be something acidic, crunchy, salty, or even sour. But it’s important to have a component that moves you back and forth. I’ve added almonds, which are very common in the south of France. Caramelized, roasted in the oven with a hint of salt, they give the Tropézienne just the right extra flavor and texture.

tasting recipe

「特洛佩的女人」(Tropézienne)是我的家乡、

法国南部的传统糕点。第一次吃到的时候

年纪还很小,当时,圣特洛佩小镇(Saint-Tropez)一家蛋糕店的老板到我家来买伟士

牌 (Vespa) 机车,顺道带了个特洛佩蛋糕来。

趁大人们边吃边喝聊得正开心的时候,我

一个人把整块蛋糕全都吃光光!

1950 年代法国知名女星碧姬芭杜的

电影「上帝创造女人」(And God Created Woman) 在圣特洛佩小镇(Saint-Tropez)取景。负责剧组伙食的面包店,供应了这

款美味的小蛋糕。电影剧组人员一试便爱

上了这款甜点。碧姬芭杜当时就建议用小

镇的名字特洛佩来命名,也就是现在「特

洛佩的女人」(Tropézienne)名称的由来。

「特洛佩的女人」传统食谱包括柳橙及

香草再加入橙花糖浆,蛋糕奶油馅以鲜奶

为基底,加入茉莉花茶、抹茶、橙皮丁及

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orANGE BrIoCHE

500grams bread flour

67grams sugar

10grams salt

25grams yeast

300grams egg

250grams butter

4oranges for zest

Mix the flour, sugar, salt, yeast, and egg at medium

speed for 25 minutes.

Zest the oranges over the mixture, add the butter in

small pieces while mixing at

low speed, and then move

to medium speed until the

mixture fully separates from

the sides of the bowl.

Shape the dough into a ball and then roll it out into a flat

circular disk about ½ cm thick

and 20 cm in diameter.

Cover the dough. Let it rest and rise to double its original

size and then punch it down.

Paint it with egg yolk and

sprinkle sugar and almond on

top for garnish.

Bake the brioche at 160°C for around 20 minutes. The

actual time will vary by oven

and dough size.

WHITE CHoColATE jASmINE

TEA WHIppEd CrEAm

75grams infused milk (see below)

240grams cream

140grams white chocolate

6grams Grand Marnier

Infused mIlk

175grams milk

10grams jasmine tea

2grams matcha green tea

5grams orange peel

1grams vanilla bean

To infuse the milk, boil it with the jasmine tea,

matcha green tea, orange

peel, and vanilla beans. Sieve

the liquid and measure out

75 grams of infused milk.

Warm the infused milk with the cream, but don’t bring it

to a boil. Pour it on the white

chocolate.

Add the Grand Marnier and place the mixture in

the refrigerator. Allow it to

mature for twelve hours

before using.

Lightly whip the mixture.

jASmINE TEA Syrup

250 ml water

25 grams sugar

55 grams jasmine tea

330 grams Grand Marnier

Boil the water and sugar.

Remove the liquid from the heat and add the tea leaves.

Let it infuse for 30 minutes

before straining.

Allow the liquid to cool down and then add the Grand

Marnier.

ASSEmBly

250 grams candied almonds

1 orange for zest

1 orange for orange peel confit

Slice the brioche horizontally in half.

Brush both layers with jasmine tea syrup.

Cover the bottom layer with the whipped cream. Piped

rosettes look nicer and give

the cake more volume when

assembled.

Roughly chop the candied almonds and sprinkle them

on top of the whipped cream.

Finely grate orange zest over the whipped cream.

To make the orange peel confit, cut the orange peel

into julienne strips and boil in

a simple syrup of equal parts

water and sugar. Sprinkle the

confit on top of the whipped

cream to reinforce the flavor

of the orange in the cake.

Place the top layer on the whipped cream and garnish

the top if desired. Enjoy!

1 2 3 4

tasting recipe

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Page 57: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

orANGE BrIoCHE

500grams bread flour

67grams sugar

10grams salt

25grams yeast

300grams egg

250grams butter

4oranges for zest

Mix the flour, sugar, salt, yeast, and egg at medium

speed for 25 minutes.

Zest the oranges over the mixture, add the butter in

small pieces while mixing at

low speed, and then move

to medium speed until the

mixture fully separates from

the sides of the bowl.

Shape the dough into a ball and then roll it out into a flat

circular disk about ½ cm thick

and 20 cm in diameter.

Cover the dough. Let it rest and rise to double its original

size and then punch it down.

Paint it with egg yolk and

sprinkle sugar and almond on

top for garnish.

Bake the brioche at 160°C for around 20 minutes. The

actual time will vary by oven

and dough size.

WHITE CHoColATE jASmINE

TEA WHIppEd CrEAm

75grams infused milk (see below)

240grams cream

140grams white chocolate

6grams Grand Marnier

Infused mIlk

175grams milk

10grams jasmine tea

2grams matcha green tea

5grams orange peel

1grams vanilla bean

To infuse the milk, boil it with the jasmine tea,

matcha green tea, orange

peel, and vanilla beans. Sieve

the liquid and measure out

75 grams of infused milk.

Warm the infused milk with the cream, but don’t bring it

to a boil. Pour it on the white

chocolate.

Add the Grand Marnier and place the mixture in

the refrigerator. Allow it to

mature for twelve hours

before using.

Lightly whip the mixture.

jASmINE TEA Syrup

250 ml water

25 grams sugar

55 grams jasmine tea

330 grams Grand Marnier

Boil the water and sugar.

Remove the liquid from the heat and add the tea leaves.

Let it infuse for 30 minutes

before straining.

Allow the liquid to cool down and then add the Grand

Marnier.

ASSEmBly

250 grams candied almonds

1 orange for zest

1 orange for orange peel confit

Slice the brioche horizontally in half.

Brush both layers with jasmine tea syrup.

Cover the bottom layer with the whipped cream. Piped

rosettes look nicer and give

the cake more volume when

assembled.

Roughly chop the candied almonds and sprinkle them

on top of the whipped cream.

Finely grate orange zest over the whipped cream.

To make the orange peel confit, cut the orange peel

into julienne strips and boil in

a simple syrup of equal parts

water and sugar. Sprinkle the

confit on top of the whipped

cream to reinforce the flavor

of the orange in the cake.

Place the top layer on the whipped cream and garnish

the top if desired. Enjoy!

1 2 3 4

tasting recipe

54 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

tasting recipe

香橙布里欧麦面包

500 公克 面粉

67公克 糖

10 公克 盐

25公克 酵母

300公克 蛋

250 公克 奶油

4颗橙皮丁(橙皮洗净去除白色

部分,只留下薄薄一层橙皮)

将面粉、糖、盐、酵母及

蛋放入碗内,以中速揉和

25 分钟。

橙皮丁切碎放入,分次加

入奶油,同时慢速和面团,

后加快至中速,揉至面 团

与碗壁可以完全分离。

将面团揉成球状后杆平至

0.5 公分厚、直径 20 公分

大小。

静置面团,待膨胀二至三

倍大后刷上蛋黄,撒上糖

及杏仁片点缀。

放入烤箱以 160° 烤约 20分钟。烘烤时间依烤箱及

面团大小而有调整。

白巧克力茉莉花茶鲜奶油

75公克 调味奶 ( 见下方说明 )

240公克 奶油

140公克 白巧克力

6公克 柑曼怡甜酒

调味奶

175公克 牛奶

10公克 茉莉花茶

2 公克 抹茶

5公克 柳丁皮

1公克 香草籽

牛奶加入茉莉花茶、抹茶、

橙皮丁及香草籽煮滚调味

后过筛,取 75 公克 备用。

调味奶加入奶油后小火慢

煮,勿煮滚,加热后倒至

白巧克力上。

加入柑曼怡甜酒后放入冰

箱冷冻 12 小时。

取出后轻轻搅拌即可。

茉莉花茶糖浆

250毫升 水

25公克 糖

55公克 茉莉花茶

330公克 柑曼怡甜酒

将糖水煮滚。

关火后加入茶叶,浸泡 30分钟后过筛。

待冷却后再加入柑曼怡甜

酒。

装盘出餐

250公克 焦糖杏仁

1颗橙的橙皮丁

1颗橙的橙皮

布里欧奶油面包横切为上

下层两份。

两份均涂上茉莉花茶糖浆。

下层覆以鲜奶油。以鲜奶

油花边装饰视觉效果更佳。

压碎焦糖杏仁后撒在鲜奶

油上方。

将橙皮丁整齐置于鲜奶油

上。

将橙皮切成细丝,放入水

糖比例各半的糖水中煮滚。

取出橙皮丝,撒在 鲜奶油

上方,衬出蛋糕的香橙风

味。

将奶油面包上层置于鲜奶

油上。上层可随喜好增添

装饰。

1 2 3 4

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tasting notes

Page 59: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

tasting notestasting notes

Chilled peach and champagne mousseline on light strawberry compote with

fresh strawberries, pink peach sherbet and crispy meringue fingers

红桃香槟奶油配清新士多啤梨酱,新鲜士多啤

梨,粉红蜜桃雪芭及香脆法式蛋白条

Chef Günther Wolfsgruber recommends a simple path to happiness: eat more cake

cake karma草莓缘未了

行政总饼师 Günther Wolfsgruber 仍记得他

第一次吃草莓的情景。当时六月,还是小

男孩的他坐在奥地利老家山光水色的草地

上,那样的喜悦与感动至今难忘。许多年

后,当年的小男孩成为澳门美高梅的行政

总饼师,每当新的一批草莓送达厨房,总

让他精神为之一振。

「只要用草莓做甜点,就可以变出无

穷的美味花样!」

然而他也不忘提醒,草莓与其他食材

的搭配组合,并不如一般人所想的那么多、

那么随性。举例来说,奶油或自制优格能

提升草莓的味道,薄荷和甜罗勒能加强口

感深度,与凤梨或热情果搭配则能创造出

顺口的酸味。大黄、橙子和柑橘利口酒,

例如君度橙酒 (Cointreau) 和柑曼怡 (Grand Marnier),能扫除草莓晦暗的气息。巧克

力和咖啡则该避免与之搭配,因为它们会

掩盖住草莓风味里娇嫩的格调。茶是最好

的选择,橙香白毫、大吉岭和乌龙最能凸

显出草莓的真性情。

这些组合在 Günther 制作的糕点里都

看得到。令人惊讶的奢华马卡龙串,以

草莓和热情果果冰搭配,缀上希腊干优

乳碎片。而他的经典作草莓塔,则在柔

软的奶油馅里不着痕迹地掺了点柑曼怡

Chef Günther WolfsGruber still remem-bers eating his first strawberry. He was a boy, sitting in a field near a mountain lake in June, in his native Austria, and it was a moment of pure delight. Now, years later, serving as the pastry chef at MGM Macau, he still feels his spirits lift every time a new shipment of strawberries arrives at his kitchen.

“When you bring strawberries into a pastry kitchen, the opportunities are endless!”

At the same time, he cautions that straw-berries pair less promiscuously with other ingredients than people imagine. Cream, or proper home-made yogurt, will enhance a strawberry’s flavor, while mint and sweet basil lend depth. Matching pineapple or passion fruit with strawberries creates a pleasing acidity. Rhubarb, orange and citrus liqueurs, like Cointreau and Grand Marnier, draw out the berry’s shadowy notes. Choc-olate and coffee are to be avoided as they mask delicate tones in a strawberry’s flavor. Tea is the best choice of drink to accom-pany the fruit. Orange Pekoe, Darjeeling and Oolong will all highlight a strawberry’s true colors.

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Page 60: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

tasting notes

These liaisons all appear in Chef Günther’s pastries. A playfully extravagant macaron shish kebab is held together with strawberry and passion fruit sherbet and topped with grated Greek yogurt. His classic strawberry tart has a whisper of Cointreau in the soft crème patisserie filling. Each flavor is carefully selected to play perfect counter-point to the strawberries.

“Fashion comes and goes, but comfort food lasts,” says Günther. “Quality is the most important thing.”

Quality – and to get there, something that might best be described as heart. “You must have passion and be in the right mind set.

“ When you bring strawberries into a pastry kitchen, the opportunities are endless!”当你把草莓带入糕点厨房,创意是无限的!”

How can you design something beautiful, without being in a good mood?”

A kitchen scented by strawberries is a heavenly place to work, and eating straw-berry pastries, explains Günther, is good for the soul: “I don’t feel guilty if I eat a piece of cake with cream. I don’t believe in low fat and low sugar. I eat the whole deal, or I won’t eat it. Nowadays people have more than they ever did, and yet they are unhappy. They don’t make time to enjoy their lives. To sit down with a cake to take afternoon tea makes you happy. And when you are happy, you have the capacity to be kind to other people.”

(Cointreau)。每种口味都经过精心挑选,

与草莓演绎出最精准的协奏曲。

「流行会过时,只有真正的美食才能永

续。」Günther 说道,「最重要的是质量。」

谈到质量,就不得不从心态谈起。「你

必须充满热情,心态要正确。如果情绪不佳,

怎么可能创造出如此美丽的食物呢?」

Günther 说,在充满草莓香的厨房工作

有如置身天堂,吃草莓甜点更是有益身心。

「我吃奶油蛋糕完全不会有罪恶感。我不相

信低糖低脂。现代人什么都有,生活远比

以往富足,却更不快乐,不懂得花时间享

受生活。坐下来吃块蛋糕、喝个下午茶能

让你心情愉悦。你自己快乐了,才有能力

让别人快乐。」

Strawberry Romanoff pastry 士多啤梨罗曼诺夫

tasting notes

58 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

Page 61: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

tasting notes

These liaisons all appear in Chef Günther’s pastries. A playfully extravagant macaron shish kebab is held together with strawberry and passion fruit sherbet and topped with grated Greek yogurt. His classic strawberry tart has a whisper of Cointreau in the soft crème patisserie filling. Each flavor is carefully selected to play perfect counter-point to the strawberries.

“Fashion comes and goes, but comfort food lasts,” says Günther. “Quality is the most important thing.”

Quality – and to get there, something that might best be described as heart. “You must have passion and be in the right mind set.

“ When you bring strawberries into a pastry kitchen, the opportunities are endless!”当你把草莓带入糕点厨房,创意是无限的!”

How can you design something beautiful, without being in a good mood?”

A kitchen scented by strawberries is a heavenly place to work, and eating straw-berry pastries, explains Günther, is good for the soul: “I don’t feel guilty if I eat a piece of cake with cream. I don’t believe in low fat and low sugar. I eat the whole deal, or I won’t eat it. Nowadays people have more than they ever did, and yet they are unhappy. They don’t make time to enjoy their lives. To sit down with a cake to take afternoon tea makes you happy. And when you are happy, you have the capacity to be kind to other people.”

(Cointreau)。每种口味都经过精心挑选,

与草莓演绎出最精准的协奏曲。

「流行会过时,只有真正的美食才能永

续。」Günther 说道,「最重要的是质量。」

谈到质量,就不得不从心态谈起。「你

必须充满热情,心态要正确。如果情绪不佳,

怎么可能创造出如此美丽的食物呢?」

Günther 说,在充满草莓香的厨房工作

有如置身天堂,吃草莓甜点更是有益身心。

「我吃奶油蛋糕完全不会有罪恶感。我不相

信低糖低脂。现代人什么都有,生活远比

以往富足,却更不快乐,不懂得花时间享

受生活。坐下来吃块蛋糕、喝个下午茶能

让你心情愉悦。你自己快乐了,才有能力

让别人快乐。」

Strawberry Romanoff pastry 士多啤梨罗曼诺夫

tasting notes

58 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

tasting notes

Classic French strawberry frangipane tart with Cointreau

crème pâtissière and pistachios

经典法式草莓杏仁奶油挞

佐以君度橙酒奶油与开心果仁

tasting notes

m a r c h 2 0 1 3 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | 59

Page 62: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

/ world class

An initiAl clue to Wyndham the 4th’s self-assurance is the bar’s simple webpage, which features nothing more than an address, a phone number and this statement: “Now Open.” Hidden away on the 4th floor of a non-descript office building on Wyndham Street, there are no signs to help guide the way, and the entrance is easy to miss.

The search contributes to the charm of the discovery. The bar is cozy and intimate, outfitted with leather sofas and lamps, and it opens up to a lovely outdoor terrace, just high enough above the street hubbub to pre-serve Wynham the 4th’s tranquil, restrained

mood. It’s the sort of place that can easily afford promotional discretion: delighted cus-tomers take care of spreading the word.

“Lan Kwai Fong is party central. We don’t want the bar to be crazy like that,” says bar-tender John Ng. “We want it to be a quiet, classy place where you can have a proper con-versation with your friends.” Ng, a finalist in the 2013 Diageo Reserve World Class Bar-tender of the Year competition, works the bar alongside 2012 Hong Kong winner and Wynd-ham bar manager Tom Wood.

One of John’s award-winning cocktails is the “BBC” – beef and beer cocktail. John

world class

explains that beer is becoming much more popular on the cocktail circuit. “It has a heavier texture and flavor. And the Juniper Pale Ale in this drink really complements the refreshing natural juniper flavors in the gin. It’s a good match.”

Egg white and honey add to the nourish-ing, frothy thickness, which is accented by the lighter floral notes of the tea and Elder-flower liquor. John describes his cocktail as a tribute to the English and what they have done for Hong Kong. “Gin, tea and beer, with some beef on the side – you can’t get much more English than that!”

Wyndham the 4th is hard to find but easy to love

discreet delight低调的喜悦

60 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

Page 63: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

/ world class

An initiAl clue to Wyndham the 4th’s self-assurance is the bar’s simple webpage, which features nothing more than an address, a phone number and this statement: “Now Open.” Hidden away on the 4th floor of a non-descript office building on Wyndham Street, there are no signs to help guide the way, and the entrance is easy to miss.

The search contributes to the charm of the discovery. The bar is cozy and intimate, outfitted with leather sofas and lamps, and it opens up to a lovely outdoor terrace, just high enough above the street hubbub to pre-serve Wynham the 4th’s tranquil, restrained

mood. It’s the sort of place that can easily afford promotional discretion: delighted cus-tomers take care of spreading the word.

“Lan Kwai Fong is party central. We don’t want the bar to be crazy like that,” says bar-tender John Ng. “We want it to be a quiet, classy place where you can have a proper con-versation with your friends.” Ng, a finalist in the 2013 Diageo Reserve World Class Bar-tender of the Year competition, works the bar alongside 2012 Hong Kong winner and Wynd-ham bar manager Tom Wood.

One of John’s award-winning cocktails is the “BBC” – beef and beer cocktail. John

world class

explains that beer is becoming much more popular on the cocktail circuit. “It has a heavier texture and flavor. And the Juniper Pale Ale in this drink really complements the refreshing natural juniper flavors in the gin. It’s a good match.”

Egg white and honey add to the nourish-ing, frothy thickness, which is accented by the lighter floral notes of the tea and Elder-flower liquor. John describes his cocktail as a tribute to the English and what they have done for Hong Kong. “Gin, tea and beer, with some beef on the side – you can’t get much more English than that!”

Wyndham the 4th is hard to find but easy to love

discreet delight低调的喜悦

60 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

/ world class

从 Wyndham the 4th 的网页便能感受到这

家酒吧的自信,设计简单的网站上仅有地

址、电话及「已开幕」寥寥数字。隐身在

一栋貌不惊人的办公大楼四楼,没有招牌,

让第一次来的客人很容易就错过入口。 但正因这家酒吧难找,却显得更有魅

力。整间酒吧给人温馨亲切的感觉,舒适

的皮沙发及座灯,讨人喜欢的露台,其高

度正好避开底下街道的喧嚣,宁静自持的

风格因此得以保存。这样吸引人的所在,

让侥幸发现这里的常客都不愿多张扬。 酒吧副经理伍浩然表示:「兰桂坊适

合开派对狂欢,但我们不希望这家店变得

太狂野。我们希望打造一个安静、有质感

的地方,你可以跟朋友舒服地谈天。」伍是

2013 年 Diageo Reserve 举办的世界最佳调

酒师大赛进入决赛者,与 2012 年香港区冠

军 Tom Wood ( 也是本店经理 ) 共同经营。 伍发明的 BBC 鸡尾酒曾得过奖,是以

牛肉及啤酒混合而成。他解释近年来啤酒

已成为鸡尾酒相当受欢迎的调料,因其「质

Tanqueray No. TEN is the gin of World Class, the global competition which celebrates the skill and style of the world’s best bartenders. Follow all the action at facebook.com/WorldClassHK.

地较厚、香味浓郁,杜松淡啤酒为琴酒添

增松树的香气,搭配起来效果极佳。」 蛋白及蜂蜜使口感滋养、醇厚,淡雅

花香的茶及接骨木花利口酒更衬托出绝妙

口感。伍说这款鸡尾酒代表他向英国人致

敬的心意,「琴酒、茶及啤酒,里面加些牛

肉,你找不到更英国式的东西了!」

BBC Beef & Beer Cocktail 鸡尾酒

30 ml Tanqueray No. TEN gin

坦奎瑞琴酒

50 ml Elderflower liquor

接骨木花利口酒

20 ml lemon juice 柠檬汁

20 ml tea and honey mix 茶与蜂蜜混调

(4ml English Breakfast Tea,

16ml honey)

(4ml 英国早餐茶加 16ml 蜂蜜 )

1 egg white 个蛋白

Rogue Juniper Pale Ale to top

在上面淋上杜松淡啤酒

Dried tea leaves 干燥茶叶

Spray of homemade tea perfume

自制茶香精

1 piece beef jerky, skewered on toothpick

一片牛肉干,以牙签固定住

Measure the gin, lemon juice, tea and

honey, elderflower liquor and egg white

into a shaker. Shake gently. Add a large

scoop of ice and shake again. Strain

into a small beer stein. Top with Juniper

Pale Ale and sprinkle dried tea leaves

across the top. Spray with a mist of tea

perfume and lay a skewered twist of

beef jerky across the top of the glass.

Cheers!

按照上面的分量,在容器里一一加

入琴酒、柠檬汁、茶及蜂蜜、接骨

木花利口酒跟蛋白,然后轻轻摇晃。

然后加一大杓的冰,再摇。摇匀之

后倒入啤酒杯内,淋上杜松淡啤酒、

撒上几片干的茶叶,最后洒些茶香

精,在杯口上横斜地放一片牛肉干。

干杯吧!

m a r c h 2 0 1 3 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | 61

Page 64: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

Along an ancient pilgrim’s path, which leads through France to the Cathedral of Santiago de

Compostela in Spain, lies the Château Franc Mayne, famed since Roman times for its fine wines.

Hervé Laviale and his wife Griet acquired the Bordeaux property in 2005, adding it to their

other wine estate holdings in the region, and have since made their mark with great Bordeaux

blends. Mr. Laviale met with TK recently at the Miele Lounge in Hong Kong to talk about Merlot.

从法国到西班牙的圣地亚哥德孔波斯特拉大教堂的朝圣路上,坐落着一座自罗马时代便因生产上

好葡萄酒而享誉盛名的弗朗梅诺酒庄。Hervé Laviale夫妇于2005年买下了这座位于波尔多的著名

酒庄,进一步拓展他们的葡萄酒王国,旗下顶级葡萄酒扬名海外。TK此次有幸与Laviale先生在香

港Miele Lounge相会,一同畅谈梅洛葡萄酒的点点滴滴。

the way of merlot

Tell us about the region where your vineyards are located.

The Right Bank in Bordeaux is a place where Merlot has been planted for decades. It is a bit less sunny and the type of soil is clay and limestone. Limestone is an important part of the terroir for Merlot because it provides minerality and acidity. Other regions that pro-duce Merlot wines don’t have that dimension.

What are the characteristics of Merlot?It is a very easy-going grape, probably the

most joyful grape in Bordeaux. Generally we make a blend. Merlot brings easy aromas and a little fruit – red fruit. But you need to have some Cabernet with the Merlot, which gives bones to the wine and lends complexity.

先谈谈贵葡萄园的所在地吧。

数十年来,波尔多右岸向来是梅洛

葡萄的主要产区,那里阳光没那么多,

土质以黏土与石灰石为主。石灰石是栽

种梅洛葡萄相当重要的风土条件,提供

了这款红酒很特别的矿物质和酸味,其

他地区生产的梅洛葡萄酒就少了这两种

味道。

梅洛葡萄有什么特色?

这种葡萄十分平易近人,称得上是

波尔多地区口感最舒服的葡萄吧,通

常会与其他种葡萄混合酿酒。梅洛葡

萄让酿出的红酒有自然的芬芳和一点

红果的滋味,但还需要加一些赤霞珠

葡萄以突出这款红酒的个性,增添复

杂的层次感。

梅洛葡萄酒

How important is the climate in Bor-deaux for growing Merlot?

Merlot from Bordeaux is very different from that of other countries. In Bordeaux, even when it is very hot during the day, 35 degrees in July and August, the nights are still fresh. This means the grapes cannot create too much sugar, so there is not too much alcohol in the wine. In Spain and Italy, day and night temperatures are consistently hot, so the wines are more alcoholic.

At what point do you know the grapes are perfectly ready?

You have to taste the grapes on the vines from beginning of September until the har-vest to check aromas inside the fruit and the

D e D i c a t e D t o a p p r e c i a t i n g t h e b e s t m i n D s i n t h e w o r l D o f w i n e

Edm

on L

eong

62 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

Page 65: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

Along an ancient pilgrim’s path, which leads through France to the Cathedral of Santiago de

Compostela in Spain, lies the Château Franc Mayne, famed since Roman times for its fine wines.

Hervé Laviale and his wife Griet acquired the Bordeaux property in 2005, adding it to their

other wine estate holdings in the region, and have since made their mark with great Bordeaux

blends. Mr. Laviale met with TK recently at the Miele Lounge in Hong Kong to talk about Merlot.

从法国到西班牙的圣地亚哥德孔波斯特拉大教堂的朝圣路上,坐落着一座自罗马时代便因生产上

好葡萄酒而享誉盛名的弗朗梅诺酒庄。Hervé Laviale夫妇于2005年买下了这座位于波尔多的著名

酒庄,进一步拓展他们的葡萄酒王国,旗下顶级葡萄酒扬名海外。TK此次有幸与Laviale先生在香

港Miele Lounge相会,一同畅谈梅洛葡萄酒的点点滴滴。

the way of merlot

Tell us about the region where your vineyards are located.

The Right Bank in Bordeaux is a place where Merlot has been planted for decades. It is a bit less sunny and the type of soil is clay and limestone. Limestone is an important part of the terroir for Merlot because it provides minerality and acidity. Other regions that pro-duce Merlot wines don’t have that dimension.

What are the characteristics of Merlot?It is a very easy-going grape, probably the

most joyful grape in Bordeaux. Generally we make a blend. Merlot brings easy aromas and a little fruit – red fruit. But you need to have some Cabernet with the Merlot, which gives bones to the wine and lends complexity.

先谈谈贵葡萄园的所在地吧。

数十年来,波尔多右岸向来是梅洛

葡萄的主要产区,那里阳光没那么多,

土质以黏土与石灰石为主。石灰石是栽

种梅洛葡萄相当重要的风土条件,提供

了这款红酒很特别的矿物质和酸味,其

他地区生产的梅洛葡萄酒就少了这两种

味道。

梅洛葡萄有什么特色?

这种葡萄十分平易近人,称得上是

波尔多地区口感最舒服的葡萄吧,通

常会与其他种葡萄混合酿酒。梅洛葡

萄让酿出的红酒有自然的芬芳和一点

红果的滋味,但还需要加一些赤霞珠

葡萄以突出这款红酒的个性,增添复

杂的层次感。

梅洛葡萄酒

How important is the climate in Bor-deaux for growing Merlot?

Merlot from Bordeaux is very different from that of other countries. In Bordeaux, even when it is very hot during the day, 35 degrees in July and August, the nights are still fresh. This means the grapes cannot create too much sugar, so there is not too much alcohol in the wine. In Spain and Italy, day and night temperatures are consistently hot, so the wines are more alcoholic.

At what point do you know the grapes are perfectly ready?

You have to taste the grapes on the vines from beginning of September until the har-vest to check aromas inside the fruit and the

D e D i c a t e D t o a p p r e c i a t i n g t h e b e s t m i n D s i n t h e w o r l D o f w i n e

Edm

on L

eong

62 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3 Hervé Laviale, winemaker 酿酒师

Page 66: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

taste of the pips. You have to chew a lot. If the pips taste of nuts, this is good. If they are too green, this has a negative effect on vini-fication. You also have to put the grape into your hand and rub the skin to see if the color is right. It should come out on your fingers. So you have to be sure the three elements are there: the level of sugar in your mouth, the taste of the pips, and the color.

How long do you have to harvest the grapes?

You have a very short window. Merlot is a grape that needs its maturity but if you wait too long the quality decreases very quickly. We can move fast with the harvest and clear seven hectares in two days.

Does the size of the wine bottle make a difference?

The quality of the magnum cork is better as we try to dedicate the best corks for the bigger containers. The size of the container also has an effect on the contents. The evo-lution inside a bigger bottle is greater – the wine can change more. When you put your wine into a bottle it is like caging it, you put it in jail. So it is better to be in a big jail.

Once it is bottled, how quickly can we get it open?

It isn’t good to taste the wines too soon after

bottling, because there is something we call “bottling disease.” You have to let the wines have at least one year. The wine has to recover from the bottling. Like a kind of trauma.

What about storing and keeping wine after you buy it? Any tips?

The best way is to store your wine in a professional cooler, where you can monitor the heat and humidity and light. If the light is harsh, it can break the wine. Optimal condi-tions are a temperature of fifteen to eighteen degrees Celsius, and humidity of fifty to sixty percent. The humidity is necessary to pre-vent the cork from shrinking, which causes too strong a change in the wine.

Does the age of a wine affect how it should be served?

A younger wine should be opened early to give it a chance to breathe. Three hours minimum, so you can appreciate the com-plexity. Older vintages are more fragile and susceptible to oxidation, and being open too long can hurt the flavor. Decant very young wines but with very old wines, just open the bottle.

How do the recent Bordeaux vintages vary? Which ones should we be snap-ping up?

You are not producing the same wine from one year to another. Our major goal is to let the vintage express itself. Different vintages can vary in flavor, level of extraction and density of the wine. People are attracted by the big Bordeaux vintages of the decade: 2000, 2005 and 2009. But when you are looking for wine, give a chance to the other vintages. If you want an easy-going wine right now, choose 2007, which is very inex-pensive. The 2004 is very classical, while 2006 and 2008 have a more exotic style. At our properties, the 2004 is opening and the 2005 is ready.

波尔多的气候对栽种梅洛葡萄有什么重要

影响?

波尔多地区生产的梅洛葡萄与其他国

家的非常不同。在波尔多,即使是炎热的七、

八月,白天温度高达 35 度,夜晚的空气依

然清凉,这种气候的葡萄不会产生过多糖

分,因此酿成的葡萄酒酒精度较低。西班

牙和意大利从早到晚的气温都很高,酿出

酒的酒精度就比较高。

如何知道葡萄完美熟成的时候?

从九月初葡萄还在藤上时就要试吃,

一直到收成季节,检查果内的香气和种籽

的味道,要不断咀嚼品尝。如果种籽尝起

来像坚果,这就很好,如果太青涩,也感

觉得出来,这对酿酒过程是不利的。还要

将葡萄放在手中,搓揉果皮,看显现在手

指头上的颜色对不对。总之有三项要素:

嘴里尝到的甜度、种籽的味道、果皮的颜色。

采收葡萄需花多少时间?

采收期很短。梅洛葡萄最好要等到成

熟时立即采收,若等太久质量很快就下降

了。我们的采收速度很快,两天内就可采

收完七公顷。

酒瓶大小会造成什么差异吗?

容器大小的确对酒有影响,大酒瓶的

陈年效果比较好,酒可以经历较多改变。

其实将酒装瓶像是把酒囚禁起来,关在牢

里,当然牢房大一点比较好。因此我们用

心找最适合大酒瓶的软木塞,目前发现 1.5升酒瓶的软木塞质量最适宜。

近年的波尔多年份酒有什么不同?哪些年

份是值得大肆抢购珍藏?

每年产出的酒都不相同,我们的目的

是让各年份展现自己的特色。不同年份的

酒在风味上、萃取程度上、浓度上都不同。

过去十年的波尔多年份酒中,许多人推崇

2000 年、2005 年和 2009 年的,但我建议

不要忽略了其他的年份。如果想要平易近

人的酒,就该选 2007 年的,而且价格也相

当宜人。2004 年的非常中规中矩,2006 和

2008 年的则带有异域风情。在我们的酒庄,

Miele Boutique Ground Floor, 111 Leighton Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 香港铜锣湾礼顿道 111 号地下 q +852 2890 1018 H www.miele.hk

Miele is proud to share another chapter in its dedication to the world of fine wine.

A constant commitment to excellence & an enduring desire to be forever better.

Since 1899

64 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

Page 67: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

taste of the pips. You have to chew a lot. If the pips taste of nuts, this is good. If they are too green, this has a negative effect on vini-fication. You also have to put the grape into your hand and rub the skin to see if the color is right. It should come out on your fingers. So you have to be sure the three elements are there: the level of sugar in your mouth, the taste of the pips, and the color.

How long do you have to harvest the grapes?

You have a very short window. Merlot is a grape that needs its maturity but if you wait too long the quality decreases very quickly. We can move fast with the harvest and clear seven hectares in two days.

Does the size of the wine bottle make a difference?

The quality of the magnum cork is better as we try to dedicate the best corks for the bigger containers. The size of the container also has an effect on the contents. The evo-lution inside a bigger bottle is greater – the wine can change more. When you put your wine into a bottle it is like caging it, you put it in jail. So it is better to be in a big jail.

Once it is bottled, how quickly can we get it open?

It isn’t good to taste the wines too soon after

bottling, because there is something we call “bottling disease.” You have to let the wines have at least one year. The wine has to recover from the bottling. Like a kind of trauma.

What about storing and keeping wine after you buy it? Any tips?

The best way is to store your wine in a professional cooler, where you can monitor the heat and humidity and light. If the light is harsh, it can break the wine. Optimal condi-tions are a temperature of fifteen to eighteen degrees Celsius, and humidity of fifty to sixty percent. The humidity is necessary to pre-vent the cork from shrinking, which causes too strong a change in the wine.

Does the age of a wine affect how it should be served?

A younger wine should be opened early to give it a chance to breathe. Three hours minimum, so you can appreciate the com-plexity. Older vintages are more fragile and susceptible to oxidation, and being open too long can hurt the flavor. Decant very young wines but with very old wines, just open the bottle.

How do the recent Bordeaux vintages vary? Which ones should we be snap-ping up?

You are not producing the same wine from one year to another. Our major goal is to let the vintage express itself. Different vintages can vary in flavor, level of extraction and density of the wine. People are attracted by the big Bordeaux vintages of the decade: 2000, 2005 and 2009. But when you are looking for wine, give a chance to the other vintages. If you want an easy-going wine right now, choose 2007, which is very inex-pensive. The 2004 is very classical, while 2006 and 2008 have a more exotic style. At our properties, the 2004 is opening and the 2005 is ready.

波尔多的气候对栽种梅洛葡萄有什么重要

影响?

波尔多地区生产的梅洛葡萄与其他国

家的非常不同。在波尔多,即使是炎热的七、

八月,白天温度高达 35 度,夜晚的空气依

然清凉,这种气候的葡萄不会产生过多糖

分,因此酿成的葡萄酒酒精度较低。西班

牙和意大利从早到晚的气温都很高,酿出

酒的酒精度就比较高。

如何知道葡萄完美熟成的时候?

从九月初葡萄还在藤上时就要试吃,

一直到收成季节,检查果内的香气和种籽

的味道,要不断咀嚼品尝。如果种籽尝起

来像坚果,这就很好,如果太青涩,也感

觉得出来,这对酿酒过程是不利的。还要

将葡萄放在手中,搓揉果皮,看显现在手

指头上的颜色对不对。总之有三项要素:

嘴里尝到的甜度、种籽的味道、果皮的颜色。

采收葡萄需花多少时间?

采收期很短。梅洛葡萄最好要等到成

熟时立即采收,若等太久质量很快就下降

了。我们的采收速度很快,两天内就可采

收完七公顷。

酒瓶大小会造成什么差异吗?

容器大小的确对酒有影响,大酒瓶的

陈年效果比较好,酒可以经历较多改变。

其实将酒装瓶像是把酒囚禁起来,关在牢

里,当然牢房大一点比较好。因此我们用

心找最适合大酒瓶的软木塞,目前发现 1.5升酒瓶的软木塞质量最适宜。

近年的波尔多年份酒有什么不同?哪些年

份是值得大肆抢购珍藏?

每年产出的酒都不相同,我们的目的

是让各年份展现自己的特色。不同年份的

酒在风味上、萃取程度上、浓度上都不同。

过去十年的波尔多年份酒中,许多人推崇

2000 年、2005 年和 2009 年的,但我建议

不要忽略了其他的年份。如果想要平易近

人的酒,就该选 2007 年的,而且价格也相

当宜人。2004 年的非常中规中矩,2006 和

2008 年的则带有异域风情。在我们的酒庄,

Miele Boutique Ground Floor, 111 Leighton Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 香港铜锣湾礼顿道 111 号地下 q +852 2890 1018 H www.miele.hk

Miele is proud to share another chapter in its dedication to the world of fine wine.

A constant commitment to excellence & an enduring desire to be forever better.

Since 1899

64 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

2004 年刚可开始品尝,2005 年是水到渠成,

最佳享受时刻。

将酒装瓶后多久可以打开?

装瓶后不要太快打开,酒会因为被装

瓶而所谓「生病」。至少要放一年,让酒能

有时间复原。

买了酒之后,有什么贮存的窍门吗?

最好的方法是将酒存放在专门的酒柜

里,温度、湿度和光线都控制在一定范围。

光线太强会伤害酒体,而最佳的温度是摄

氏 15 到 18 度,湿度最好介于 50~60% 之间。

如果没有维持一定的湿度,使得软木塞干

燥萎缩,会对酒造成非常大的影响。

酒龄会影响饮酒方式吗?

酒龄较轻的酒应提早打开,让酒有机

会呼吸,至少提早三小时,喝的时候口感

就会有复杂的层次。酒龄较老的年份酒比

较脆弱,容易氧化,太早打开反而坏了风味。

所以非常年轻的酒要倒出来喝,非常老的

酒则要打开瓶盖马上喝。

什么料理适合搭配梅洛葡萄酒?

这得依据不同的年份酒而定。我们有一

款 2003 年的酒,当年非常炎热,酿成的酒

就和巧克力甜点很搭。不过就梅洛葡萄酒而

言,我会推荐羊肉、鸡鸭和小牛肉。

Mr. and Mrs. Laviale have designed their wine labels to reflect the history of the region. The Château Vieux Maillet (Pomerol) bottle on the far right has a label with a cockle shell motif, symbol of the pilgrims who walk the route to Santiago. Learn more

about the Laviale’s premier wines here: http://www.chateaufrancmayne.com/

Laviale夫妇设计的酒标反映出当地的历史,例如最右边老铁锤酒庄的酒标设计

便发想于蛤壳的纹路,象征朝圣者徒步前往圣地亚哥的旅程。欲了解Laviale的顶级葡萄酒,请至http://www.chateaufrancmayne.com/。

“Merlot is probably

the most joyful

grape in Bordeaux.

梅洛葡萄应该是波

尔多地区口感最

舒服的葡萄。”

Edm

on L

eong

m a r c h 2 0 1 3 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | 65

Page 68: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

Belon 貝隆 31/F, Banyan Tree Macau, Galaxy Macau, Avenida Marginal Flor de Lotus, Cotai, Coloane-Taipa 路氹城蓮花海濱大馬路澳門悅榕莊 31樓

5 Western 31/Fq +853 8883 6090

Bar: 18:00–00:00 Wed–Mon, Dinner: 18:00–23:00 Wed–Mon, Closed Tues

Over MOP 300A Casual Chic

Poker CaféA unique poker-themed restaurant in Macau. 以撲克為主題,最具有澳門特色的主題餐廳。

5 International Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro, Avenida de Cinco de Outubro No. 147新馬路十月初五街 147號

q+853 28924370 11:00-04:00 MOP 30 to 80

Grand Lapa Cake Shop 金麗華餅店

sponsored restaurant listingssponsored restaurant listingssponsored restaurant listings

HoteL okura MaCau 澳门大仓酒店Hotel Okura Macau, Galaxy Macau ™, COTAI, Macau澳門大倉酒店 「 ™」綜合渡假城 澳門路氹城www.hotelokuramacau.com

the Crystal Piano 水晶鋼琴

5 Bar & Lounge 28/Fq+853 8883 5109

18:00–02:00 Closed Wed MOP 60 and upA Smart CasualH www.hotelokuramacau.com

Sakazuki Sake Bar 清酒

5 Sake Bar 2/F q +853 8883 5125

16:00–24:00 Tues–Sun MOP 60 and upA Smart CasualH www.hotelokuramacau.com

Yamazato 山裡

5 Japanese/Kaiseki 2/Fq +853 8883 5127

12:00–22:30 Tues–Sun MOP 300 and upA Casual ChicH www.hotelokuramacau.com

terrace restaurant 和庭餐廳

5 International 2/F q +853 8883 5122 & 8883 5126

07:00–24:00 MOP 100 and upA Resort CasualH www.hotelokuramacau.com

Hong Kong

Carpaccio Paste Pizza Vino Shop 307, 3rd Floor, iSQUARE, 63 Nathan Road

尖沙咀彌敦道 63號 iSQUARE 國際廣場 3樓 307號鋪

5 Italianq +852 2328 5202

10:00–24:00 HKD 200-400A Casual

C’est La B Pacific Place Shop 202 Level 2 Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty,金鐘道 88號太古廣場 2樓 202號鋪

5 Cafe Barq +852 2536 0173

10:00–10:00 Sun–Wed10:00–00:00 Thur–Sat

HKD 200A Smart Casual

Divino Patio Shop 11, 1/F, Causeway Centre, No. 28 Harbour Road

灣仔港灣道 28號灣景中心(Brim 28)1樓 11號鋪

5 Italianq +852 2877 3552

11:30–24:00 HKD 250-500A Smart Casual

Studio City Bar & Café Shop No.12, L11/F, Enterprise Square, 38 Wang Chiu Road

九龍灣宏照道 38號MegaBox 11樓 12號鋪

5 Americanq +852 3543 5638

12:00–23:00 HKD 100-150A Casual

The history of this famous restaurant spans over four generations and more than a century. Fat Siu Lau

opened its first branch in 2006, Fat Siu Lau 2 is situated in the bar street area, next to MGM Grand, with its bright red unique color scheme and huge windows providing enchanting views of the nearby lake. Fat Siu Lau 3, on the other hand, is located in Taipa village near Galaxy Macau with a green European motif. It can cater for private parties up to 100 persons. Menu highlights include perennial favorites like roast pigeon (prepared to a 110-year-old secret recipe), curry crab, African chicken and grilled prawns.

要數澳門歷史悠久及著名的葡式餐廳,「佛笑樓」應該是當之無愧了。餐廳開業至

現在已超過一個世紀,當中經過了四代人的悉

心經營。遐邇馳名的燒乳鴿,是佛笑樓的招牌

菜,采用祖傳秘方炮制。其他經典菜式有咖喱

炒蟹、非洲雞、扒魔鬼大蝦。

為了迎合發展,佛笑樓在2006年於酒吧街開

了佛笑樓2,裝潢以紅色為主調,可透過玻璃望

向海傍景色。而佛笑樓3更位於 仔著名的手信

及美食街——地堡街,与剛開業的澳門銀河為

鄰。餐廳以清新綠色為主調,可舉行多達100人

的私人派對。

Celebrating our 110th anniversary 庆祝餐厅开业110周年

Roast pigeon 燒乳鴿

Curry Crab 葡式咖喱蟹

佛笑樓˙Fat Siu Lau

佛笑樓 2 (皇朝店) Fat Siu Lau 2Avn. Dr. Sun Yat-Sen, Edf. Vista Magnifica Court, Macau (Opposite of Kun Ian Statue)

澳門孫逸仙大馬路帝

景苑

(觀音像對面)

Tel: (853) 2872 2922

Other branches 其他分店

佛笑樓˙Fat Siu Lau

Rua da Felicidade No.64, Macau

澳門褔隆新街64號

Tel: (853) 2857 3580

佛笑樓 3

Fat Siu Lau 3

Rua Do Regedor

181-185 R/C, Taipa

仔地堡街

181-185號地下

Tel: (853) 2882 5257

*新濠天地有免費穿梭巴士直到地堡街

Fat Siu Lau 2 佛笑樓 2 (皇朝店)

The HK Bartenders Association (HKBA) will host the Allworld Open Cup – Creative Classic & Bartending Flair at HOFEX 2013 from 7 – 9 May at HKCEC.

For more details, please contact Neil Wong, President HKBA at [email protected].

Macau澳門

Lax Cafe5 Western Cuisine

Rua De Braganca No. 120. L J. Y RC EDIF. Supreme Flower City, Taipa

q+853 2884 3093 10:00- 22:00 MOP 50+A Casual

66 | T a S T I n g K I T c H E n | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

Page 69: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

Belon 貝隆 31/F, Banyan Tree Macau, Galaxy Macau, Avenida Marginal Flor de Lotus, Cotai, Coloane-Taipa 路氹城蓮花海濱大馬路澳門悅榕莊 31樓

5 Western 31/Fq +853 8883 6090

Bar: 18:00–00:00 Wed–Mon, Dinner: 18:00–23:00 Wed–Mon, Closed Tues

Over MOP 300A Casual Chic

Poker CaféA unique poker-themed restaurant in Macau. 以撲克為主題,最具有澳門特色的主題餐廳。

5 International Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro, Avenida de Cinco de Outubro No. 147新馬路十月初五街 147號

q+853 28924370 11:00-04:00 MOP 30 to 80

Grand Lapa Cake Shop 金麗華餅店

sponsored restaurant listingssponsored restaurant listingssponsored restaurant listings

HoteL okura MaCau 澳门大仓酒店Hotel Okura Macau, Galaxy Macau ™, COTAI, Macau澳門大倉酒店 「 ™」綜合渡假城 澳門路氹城www.hotelokuramacau.com

the Crystal Piano 水晶鋼琴

5 Bar & Lounge 28/Fq+853 8883 5109

18:00–02:00 Closed Wed MOP 60 and upA Smart CasualH www.hotelokuramacau.com

Sakazuki Sake Bar 清酒

5 Sake Bar 2/F q +853 8883 5125

16:00–24:00 Tues–Sun MOP 60 and upA Smart CasualH www.hotelokuramacau.com

Yamazato 山裡

5 Japanese/Kaiseki 2/Fq +853 8883 5127

12:00–22:30 Tues–Sun MOP 300 and upA Casual ChicH www.hotelokuramacau.com

terrace restaurant 和庭餐廳

5 International 2/F q +853 8883 5122 & 8883 5126

07:00–24:00 MOP 100 and upA Resort CasualH www.hotelokuramacau.com

Hong Kong

Carpaccio Paste Pizza Vino Shop 307, 3rd Floor, iSQUARE, 63 Nathan Road

尖沙咀彌敦道 63號 iSQUARE 國際廣場 3樓 307號鋪

5 Italianq +852 2328 5202

10:00–24:00 HKD 200-400A Casual

C’est La B Pacific Place Shop 202 Level 2 Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty,金鐘道 88號太古廣場 2樓 202號鋪

5 Cafe Barq +852 2536 0173

10:00–10:00 Sun–Wed10:00–00:00 Thur–Sat

HKD 200A Smart Casual

Divino Patio Shop 11, 1/F, Causeway Centre, No. 28 Harbour Road

灣仔港灣道 28號灣景中心(Brim 28)1樓 11號鋪

5 Italianq +852 2877 3552

11:30–24:00 HKD 250-500A Smart Casual

Studio City Bar & Café Shop No.12, L11/F, Enterprise Square, 38 Wang Chiu Road

九龍灣宏照道 38號MegaBox 11樓 12號鋪

5 Americanq +852 3543 5638

12:00–23:00 HKD 100-150A Casual

The history of this famous restaurant spans over four generations and more than a century. Fat Siu Lau

opened its first branch in 2006, Fat Siu Lau 2 is situated in the bar street area, next to MGM Grand, with its bright red unique color scheme and huge windows providing enchanting views of the nearby lake. Fat Siu Lau 3, on the other hand, is located in Taipa village near Galaxy Macau with a green European motif. It can cater for private parties up to 100 persons. Menu highlights include perennial favorites like roast pigeon (prepared to a 110-year-old secret recipe), curry crab, African chicken and grilled prawns.

要數澳門歷史悠久及著名的葡式餐廳,「佛笑樓」應該是當之無愧了。餐廳開業至

現在已超過一個世紀,當中經過了四代人的悉

心經營。遐邇馳名的燒乳鴿,是佛笑樓的招牌

菜,采用祖傳秘方炮制。其他經典菜式有咖喱

炒蟹、非洲雞、扒魔鬼大蝦。

為了迎合發展,佛笑樓在2006年於酒吧街開

了佛笑樓2,裝潢以紅色為主調,可透過玻璃望

向海傍景色。而佛笑樓3更位於 仔著名的手信

及美食街——地堡街,与剛開業的澳門銀河為

鄰。餐廳以清新綠色為主調,可舉行多達100人

的私人派對。

Celebrating our 110th anniversary 庆祝餐厅开业110周年

Roast pigeon 燒乳鴿

Curry Crab 葡式咖喱蟹

佛笑樓˙Fat Siu Lau

佛笑樓 2 (皇朝店) Fat Siu Lau 2Avn. Dr. Sun Yat-Sen, Edf. Vista Magnifica Court, Macau (Opposite of Kun Ian Statue)

澳門孫逸仙大馬路帝

景苑

(觀音像對面)

Tel: (853) 2872 2922

Other branches 其他分店

佛笑樓˙Fat Siu Lau

Rua da Felicidade No.64, Macau

澳門褔隆新街64號

Tel: (853) 2857 3580

佛笑樓 3

Fat Siu Lau 3

Rua Do Regedor

181-185 R/C, Taipa

仔地堡街

181-185號地下

Tel: (853) 2882 5257

*新濠天地有免費穿梭巴士直到地堡街

Fat Siu Lau 2 佛笑樓 2 (皇朝店)

The HK Bartenders Association (HKBA) will host the Allworld Open Cup – Creative Classic & Bartending Flair at HOFEX 2013 from 7 – 9 May at HKCEC.

For more details, please contact Neil Wong, President HKBA at [email protected].

Macau澳門

Lax Cafe5 Western Cuisine

Rua De Braganca No. 120. L J. Y RC EDIF. Supreme Flower City, Taipa

q+853 2884 3093 10:00- 22:00 MOP 50+A Casual

66 | T a S T I n g K I T c H E n | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

Featured tHis issueFeatured tHis issueFeatured tHis issue

The history of this famous restaurant spans over four generations and more than a century. Fat Siu Lau

opened its first branch in 2006, Fat Siu Lau 2 is situated in the bar street area, next to MGM Grand, with its bright red unique color scheme and huge windows providing enchanting views of the nearby lake. Fat Siu Lau 3, on the other hand, is located in Taipa village near Galaxy Macau with a green European motif. It can cater for private parties up to 100 persons. Menu highlights include perennial favorites like roast pigeon (prepared to a 110-year-old secret recipe), curry crab, African chicken and grilled prawns.

要數澳門歷史悠久及著名的葡式餐廳,「佛笑樓」應該是當之無愧了。餐廳開業至

現在已超過一個世紀,當中經過了四代人的悉

心經營。遐邇馳名的燒乳鴿,是佛笑樓的招牌

菜,采用祖傳秘方炮制。其他經典菜式有咖喱

炒蟹、非洲雞、扒魔鬼大蝦。

為了迎合發展,佛笑樓在2006年於酒吧街開

了佛笑樓2,裝潢以紅色為主調,可透過玻璃望

向海傍景色。而佛笑樓3更位於 仔著名的手信

及美食街——地堡街,与剛開業的澳門銀河為

鄰。餐廳以清新綠色為主調,可舉行多達100人

的私人派對。

Celebrating our 110th anniversary 庆祝餐厅开业110周年

Roast pigeon 燒乳鴿

Curry Crab 葡式咖喱蟹

佛笑樓˙Fat Siu Lau

佛笑樓 2 (皇朝店) Fat Siu Lau 2Avn. Dr. Sun Yat-Sen, Edf. Vista Magnifica Court, Macau (Opposite of Kun Ian Statue)

澳門孫逸仙大馬路帝

景苑

(觀音像對面)

Tel: (853) 2872 2922

Other branches 其他分店

佛笑樓˙Fat Siu Lau

Rua da Felicidade No.64, Macau

澳門褔隆新街64號

Tel: (853) 2857 3580

佛笑樓 3

Fat Siu Lau 3

Rua Do Regedor

181-185 R/C, Taipa

仔地堡街

181-185號地下

Tel: (853) 2882 5257

*新濠天地有免費穿梭巴士直到地堡街

Fat Siu Lau 2 佛笑樓 2 (皇朝店)

Saffron 尚坊 (page 18) G/F, Banyan Tree Macau, Galaxy Macau, Avenida Marginal Flor de Lotus, Cotai, Coloane-Taipa 路氹城蓮花海濱大馬路澳門悅榕

莊地下大堂

5 Thai q +853 8883 6061

12:00-15:00; 18:00-23:00 MOP 151- 300A Casual

kafka Sweets & Gourmandises 卡夫卡 (page 24)

152 Rue de Braga, Taipa, Oceano澳门氹仔布拉格街 152 号

5 Pâtisserie q +853 28820086

Tue- Sun13:30- 22:00 MOP 41- 100A Casual

Grand Lapa Cake Shop 金麗華餅店

(page 42) 2/F, Grand Lapa Macau, 956–1110, Avenida Amizade Outer Harbour, Macau 澳门友谊大马路 956–1110 号

金丽华酒店 2 楼

5 Dessert & pastriesq +853 8793 3810

12:00–20:00 Daily MOP 50 to 100A CasualH www.macau.com/dining/cakeshop

MGM Pâtisserie MGM 咖啡餅店 (page 56)

G/F Avenida Dr. Dun Yat Sen, NAPE, MGM Macau外港新填海区孙逸仙大马路

澳门美高梅金殿大堂地下

5 Caféq +853 8802 3888

09:00–21:00 Daily MOP 50 to 100A CasualH www.macau.com/dining/patisserie

Grand Hyatt Macau Lobby Lounge (page 52) 澳門君悅酒店大堂酒廊

City of Dreams, Grand Hyatt Macau Estrada do Istmo路氹连贯公路 新濠天地 君悦酒店

5 Bars and loungesq+853 8868 1131

10:00-1:00 Daily MOP 100 to 200A Casual

Caprice (page 20) Podium 6, Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, 8 Finance Street, Central中环金融街 8 号香港四季酒店 6 楼

5 Frenchq +852 3196 8860

12:00-14:30; 18:00-22:30 HKD 501 and upA Smart Casual

CoCo Café Patisserie (page 34) Ground Level Lobby, The Mira Hong Kong, No.118 Nathan Road,Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong KongThe Mira Hong Kong 酒店大堂,香港尖沙咀弥敦道 118 号

5 Pâtisserieq +852 2315 5566

7:30 -20:30 HKD 41-100A Casual

thomas trillion (page 36) G/F Triumphant Court, 17 Wing Hing Street, Tin Hau, 天后永兴街

17 号凯旋楼地下

5 Pâtisserie, Cafeq +852 2806 0332/ 2806 0333

Mon- Thurs 11:00-20:00 Fri-Sat 11:00- 20:30 Sun: 12:00-20:00

HKD 41-100A Casual

Le Salon De thé de Joël robuchon (page 30)

Shop 315 - 3/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen's Road Central, Hong Kong 中环皇后大道中 15 号置地广场 3楼 315 号铺

5 French, Bakery, Coffee & Tea Shopq +852 2166 9088

Mon-Sun 8:00-20:00 (Last Order) Lunch: Mon-Sun Starts at 12:00 Afternoon Tea: Mon-Sun Starts at

15:00 Happy Hour and/or Dinner: Mon-

Sun Starts at 18:00 HKD 101-150A Casual

Page 70: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

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Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food.

Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

Page 71: TK6 The Joy of Pastry
Page 72: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

Tasting Kitchen is available at more than 100 newsstands and bookshops across the region, and at all of the following fine resorts, hotels and restaurants.

HONG KONG

ResTauRanTs1/5 nuevo208 Duecento Otto798 Unit & Co - JAR8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo – BombanaA Touch of SpiceAgehanagnès b. le pain grilléAh Yat Harbour View

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Where to Find tKWhere to Find tK"Where to Find tK

Cutty SarkDa Ping HuoDaddyosDelaney’s WanchaiDélifranceDouble Happiness CaféDynasty (Wan Chai)Eat Rightedo & bibo Oyster & Steak

HouseEL CID Spanish Restaurant Elgin’s F.A.B French - American BistroFelixFINDS Fish Bar & GrillFlutes Champagne

and Cocktail BarFook Lam Moon (Wan Chai)Forum RestaurantFresh Café & BarFu Ho Restaurant

(Tsim Sha Tsui)Gaddi’sGaia RistoranteGaylord Indian RestaurantGokayama Gold By Harlan GoldsteinGrappa’s Ristorante Habibi CaféHabitu Ristorante the GardenHandle BarHard Rock CaféHarlan’sHoi King HeenHong Kong University Alumni

AssociationHOUSEil meglio Ristorante di VenezlaiL Posto 97Inn Side OutIppaiya Island Seafood & Oyster BarIsland TangIsolaItalian No.5Iwanami JapasJashan Celebrating Indian

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& Oyster BarKosyu Kowloon TangKyoto JoeL’Atelier de Joël RobuchonLa BodegaLa Brezza CaféLa Casa Chilean Oyster BarLa PampaLa TerrasseL'altroLattitude 22⁰Lawry’s the Prime RibLe Gouter BernardaudLe Monde d’ UlysseLe SoukLei Garden (IFC)LifeLil’ SiamLinguini FiniLung King Heen

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Resaturant Sake Bar GINNSashay Cafe & Wine BarSCIROCCOSevvaShanghai Fraternity

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RestaurantThe WheelTim’s KitchenTivoTutto BeneUno Duo Trio – Lan’s Italian

Home CookingUpVa BeneVia 28 RistoranteVivoWabi Sabi Japanese RestaurantWagyu Kaiseki DenWagyu LoungeWanya Japanese RestaurantWatson’s WineWestwood CarveryWildfire pizzabar & GrillWooloomooloo PrimeWooloomooloo SteakhouseXi Yan SweetsYan Toh HeenYardbirdYat Tung Heen (Wan chai)Yorkshire PuddingZelo Spanish Restaurant

& Tapas BarZen Zentro Bar & Eatery

ClubhousesAberdeen Marina ClubAmerican Club – Hong Kong

Country ClubAmerican Club – Town ClubAsia Golf ClubBankers’ ClubCaldecott Hill Chinese Recreation ClubCraigengower Cricket ClubDynastyFairview Park Country ClubFederation of the Swiss Watch

IndustryGold Coast Resident’s Club

HouseGold Coast Yacht and Country

ClubHebe Haven Yacht ClubHind Group – OVOLO

HKJC Racing Club – Happy Valley Clubhouse

Hong Kong Country ClubHong Kong Cricket ClubHong Lok Yuen Country ClubKerry Property Management

services Ltd (Belgravia, Branksome Grande & Branksome Crest, Century Tower I & II, Constellation Cove, Elm Tree Towers, Jupiter Terrace, May Tower I & II, Ocean Pointe, Regency Park, SOHO 38, Tavistock II & Aigburth, The Cliveden, Valverde)

Kowloon Tong ClubMacau Jockey ClubMarina Club Discovery BayMarina Cove ClubMariners’ Club (The Narubers

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Developments Limited Palais Monaco

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Wine and GouRmeT shopsValentino ChocolatierAmorosso Fine Wines Ltd.Concord Fine Wines LimitedCottage Vineyards

(International) LimitedDelishHong Kong Wine VaultJiontek Fine Wines (Hong

Kong) LimitedLimitless Holdings LimitedQueensway WineSino Vantage Asia LimitedPortrait Winemakers &

distillersPrime Cellar Wine Tasting

RoomMonsieur Chatté

70 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

《Tasting Kitchen》美食指南于各地上百个书报摊、书店及下列各大顶级度假村、酒店与餐厅皆能取得。

Where to Find tKWhere to Find tK"Where to Find tK

hoTel lobbiesConrad International

Hong KongCourtyard By MarriottCrowne Plaza HK CWB HotelEaton Hotel Hong KongExcelsior HotelFour Seasons HotelGrand Hyatt Hong KongHarbour Grand Hong KongHarbour Grand KowloonHarbour View International

HouseHoliday Inn Golden MileHong Kong Marriott HotelHotel LKF by RhombusHotel MiraHyatt Regency Hong Kong,

Tsim Sha TsuiInterContinental Grand

StandfordInterContinental Hong KongIsland Shangri-La, Hong Kong JW Marriott Hotel Hong KongKowloon Shangri-LaLan Kwai Fong HotelLangham Hotel Hong KongLanson Place HotelLe Meridien CyberportLuk Kwok HotelMandarin Oriental Hong KongMarco Polo Hongkong HotelMarco Polo Prince HotelNikko Hong KongRegal Airport HotelRegal Hong Kong HotelRegal Hotels InternationalRegal Kowloon HotelRenaissance Harbour View

Hotel, Hong KongRoyal Garden HotelRoyal Pacific Hotel & TowersSheraton Hong Kong Hotel &

TowersSkyCity Marriott HotelThe Excelsior Hong KongThe Kowloon HotelThe Landmark Mandarin

OrientalThe Luxe ManorThe Marco Polo GatewayThe Marco Polo HK HotelThe Park Lane Hong Kong The Peninsula Hong KongThe Ritz-Carlton, Hong KongThe Upper House

aiRline lounGesCNAC LoungeDynasty LoungeEmirate LoungeEmirates Airlines-BKK LoungeHong Kong LoungeMorning Calm (Korean Air)Red Carpet Lounge (UA)Royal Orchid LoungeSq Lounge (Silver Kris)The Traveller’s Lounge EastThe Traveller’s Lounge WestVirgin Lounge

VanGoWanchaiNorth PointHo Man TinShun LeeLok fuShatinTin Shui WaiKwai ChungChai WanKwun TongTSTSaigonTuen MunHappy VallyLok FuTai Kok TsuiTin Shui WaiYuen LongTai PoMong Kok

booKshopsBeachside BookshopBookazine Ltd. (Discovery Bay,

IFC, Lippo Centre, Ocean Termainal, Prince’s, Shui On)

Commercial Press – Tsim Sha Tsui

Dymocks (Discovery Bay, Repulse Bay, Citygate, Harbour Centre, Sai Kung, Peak Galleria, Bonham Road, Gold Coast, HK Station)

EsliteExpress – Cathay CityFusion (Clearwater Bay,

Discovery Bay)Hits Media CentreHK Convention & Exhibition CtrJava JavaLagardere Services Hk Limited–

WarehouseMetro Books (Elements)Metro Books (Mikiki)Nice Collection – Golden MileNobletime (Queensway Plaza,

The Westwood)Page One (Festival Walk,

Harbour City)Park n’ Shop (Braemar Hill,

Baguio Villas, Hong Lok Yuen, Parkview, Garden Road, Shouson Hill, Cyberport)

Pollux Book (Kowloon Station, HK Station)

Swindon Book Co Ltd – Lock Road

Taste (New Hopewell Centre, Festival Walk, Citygate, Stanley Plaza, East Point City)

Threesixty (Landmark, Elements)

MACAu

hoTelsAltira Macau Banyan Tree Macau COD, Crown Tower COD, Grand Hyatt COD, Hard Rock HotelGalaxy Macau Grand Emperor Hotel Grand Lapa Grand Lisboa Grand Waldo Hotel Lisboa Hotel Okura Macau Hotel San Tiago L’Arc Lan Kwai Fong Landmark Mandarin Oriental MGM Macau Pousada de Mong-Ha, IFT Rocks HotelSofitel MacauStarWorld Hotel Waldo Hotel Westin Resort Macau Wynn Macau

hoTel ResTauRanTs Aurora Aux Beaux Arts Bambu Beijing Kitchen Belcanção Belon Bene Café Bela Vista Café Deco Café Lan City Café, CODConrad Lobby Lounge Copa Steakhouse Edo Restaurant Feast Festiva Fogosamba Fortune Inn Restaurant Golden Court Gosto Grand Emperor Court Hard Rock Café Il Teatro Imperial Court Inagiku Jade Garden Kam Lai Heen Kings of Kings Kira L’Arc Lounge La PalomaLan Laurel Lei Garden Madeira Portuguese Majestic Robatayaki Mandarin Oriental LobbyMcSorley’sMezza 9MGM Patisserie MGM Mistral MJ CaféMonsoon Morton’s Steakhouse

Myung Ga Korean Restaurant Naam Thai

Nagomi Old Shanghai OsgatosPak Lok Palms PatisseriePetrus Ping Pink Grill PrivéRain Restaurant Rossio Royal Orchid Russian Room Saffron Shanghainese 456 Spice Garden Square 8 Temptations Tenmasa Terrace Terrazza The Chinese Restaurant The Hotness The Royal Kitchen The Tasting Room Toei Delights Treasure Palace Tsui Wah Varanda Vergnano Italian Vida Rica Restaurant Windows Restaurant Xin Yamazato Ying Zi Yat Heen

hoTel baRs & lounGesBar Azul Cascades Florian Bar Macallan Whiskey Bar &

Lounge Pearl Lounge R Bar Rendezvous Sakazuki Spectra BarThe Crystal Piano Vasco Vida Rica Bar Wave Whisky Bar Windor Lounge

ResTauRanTs360° Café A Lorcha A Petisqueira Akasaka Café Albergue 1601 Andrew’s Café – Univ of Macau Antica Trattoria Antonio Restaurant Banza Café Litoral Camoes Restaurant Clube Militar de Macau Cozinha Pinocchio Taipa Fat Siu Lau Henri’s Galley Hero Chinese Restaurant La Bonne Heure

La Cucina Lord Stow’s Bakery – ColoaneLua Azul Macau Dynasty Café Men Mung Seafood Miramar Restaurant O Porto Interior Restaurante Old Taipa Tavern Pizzeria Toscana Portal Wine Bar Restaurant Litoral Restaurante Escada Restaurante Espaco Lisboa Restaurante Fernando Talay Thai Restaurant The Corner’s The Roadhouse

ClubhousesCaesars Golf French Wine Institute La Baie du Noble La Cite Lake View Tower Macau Golf & Country Club Macau Int'l Airport Lounge Macau Jockey Club Manhattan Millennium Court Nova City Ocean Garden Clubhouse One Central Clubhouse Tenis Civil The Buckingham The Pacifica Garden The Praia The Residencia

CoFFee shopsCafé Ou Mun Cuppa Coffee Illy CoffeePacific Coffee – Galaxy, COD,

SCC & The ResidenciaSinging Bean Coffee Starbucks

healTh & spaAltira Spa Banyan Tree – Spa Bodhi Spa Crown – The Spa Four Season – Spa Grand Lapa Spa Isala Spa Malo Clinic Spa Mandarin Oriental – The Spa Rock Spa – Hard Rock Royal Thai Spa Shine Spa Six Senses Spa The Spa at Encore The Spa at Wynn

TK IN TrANSIT

Air Macau Avis Burgeon Rent a car Jet Asia Macau Jet Sky Shuttle Turbojet

m a r c h 2 0 1 3 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | 71

Page 73: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

《Tasting Kitchen》美食指南于各地上百个书报摊、书店及下列各大顶级度假村、酒店与餐厅皆能取得。

Where to Find tKWhere to Find tK"Where to Find tK

hoTel lobbiesConrad International

Hong KongCourtyard By MarriottCrowne Plaza HK CWB HotelEaton Hotel Hong KongExcelsior HotelFour Seasons HotelGrand Hyatt Hong KongHarbour Grand Hong KongHarbour Grand KowloonHarbour View International

HouseHoliday Inn Golden MileHong Kong Marriott HotelHotel LKF by RhombusHotel MiraHyatt Regency Hong Kong,

Tsim Sha TsuiInterContinental Grand

StandfordInterContinental Hong KongIsland Shangri-La, Hong Kong JW Marriott Hotel Hong KongKowloon Shangri-LaLan Kwai Fong HotelLangham Hotel Hong KongLanson Place HotelLe Meridien CyberportLuk Kwok HotelMandarin Oriental Hong KongMarco Polo Hongkong HotelMarco Polo Prince HotelNikko Hong KongRegal Airport HotelRegal Hong Kong HotelRegal Hotels InternationalRegal Kowloon HotelRenaissance Harbour View

Hotel, Hong KongRoyal Garden HotelRoyal Pacific Hotel & TowersSheraton Hong Kong Hotel &

TowersSkyCity Marriott HotelThe Excelsior Hong KongThe Kowloon HotelThe Landmark Mandarin

OrientalThe Luxe ManorThe Marco Polo GatewayThe Marco Polo HK HotelThe Park Lane Hong Kong The Peninsula Hong KongThe Ritz-Carlton, Hong KongThe Upper House

aiRline lounGesCNAC LoungeDynasty LoungeEmirate LoungeEmirates Airlines-BKK LoungeHong Kong LoungeMorning Calm (Korean Air)Red Carpet Lounge (UA)Royal Orchid LoungeSq Lounge (Silver Kris)The Traveller’s Lounge EastThe Traveller’s Lounge WestVirgin Lounge

VanGoWanchaiNorth PointHo Man TinShun LeeLok fuShatinTin Shui WaiKwai ChungChai WanKwun TongTSTSaigonTuen MunHappy VallyLok FuTai Kok TsuiTin Shui WaiYuen LongTai PoMong Kok

booKshopsBeachside BookshopBookazine Ltd. (Discovery Bay,

IFC, Lippo Centre, Ocean Termainal, Prince’s, Shui On)

Commercial Press – Tsim Sha Tsui

Dymocks (Discovery Bay, Repulse Bay, Citygate, Harbour Centre, Sai Kung, Peak Galleria, Bonham Road, Gold Coast, HK Station)

EsliteExpress – Cathay CityFusion (Clearwater Bay,

Discovery Bay)Hits Media CentreHK Convention & Exhibition CtrJava JavaLagardere Services Hk Limited–

WarehouseMetro Books (Elements)Metro Books (Mikiki)Nice Collection – Golden MileNobletime (Queensway Plaza,

The Westwood)Page One (Festival Walk,

Harbour City)Park n’ Shop (Braemar Hill,

Baguio Villas, Hong Lok Yuen, Parkview, Garden Road, Shouson Hill, Cyberport)

Pollux Book (Kowloon Station, HK Station)

Swindon Book Co Ltd – Lock Road

Taste (New Hopewell Centre, Festival Walk, Citygate, Stanley Plaza, East Point City)

Threesixty (Landmark, Elements)

MACAu

hoTelsAltira Macau Banyan Tree Macau COD, Crown Tower COD, Grand Hyatt COD, Hard Rock HotelGalaxy Macau Grand Emperor Hotel Grand Lapa Grand Lisboa Grand Waldo Hotel Lisboa Hotel Okura Macau Hotel San Tiago L’Arc Lan Kwai Fong Landmark Mandarin Oriental MGM Macau Pousada de Mong-Ha, IFT Rocks HotelSofitel MacauStarWorld Hotel Waldo Hotel Westin Resort Macau Wynn Macau

hoTel ResTauRanTs Aurora Aux Beaux Arts Bambu Beijing Kitchen Belcanção Belon Bene Café Bela Vista Café Deco Café Lan City Café, CODConrad Lobby Lounge Copa Steakhouse Edo Restaurant Feast Festiva Fogosamba Fortune Inn Restaurant Golden Court Gosto Grand Emperor Court Hard Rock Café Il Teatro Imperial Court Inagiku Jade Garden Kam Lai Heen Kings of Kings Kira L’Arc Lounge La PalomaLan Laurel Lei Garden Madeira Portuguese Majestic Robatayaki Mandarin Oriental LobbyMcSorley’sMezza 9MGM Patisserie MGM Mistral MJ CaféMonsoon Morton’s Steakhouse

Myung Ga Korean Restaurant Naam Thai

Nagomi Old Shanghai OsgatosPak Lok Palms PatisseriePetrus Ping Pink Grill PrivéRain Restaurant Rossio Royal Orchid Russian Room Saffron Shanghainese 456 Spice Garden Square 8 Temptations Tenmasa Terrace Terrazza The Chinese Restaurant The Hotness The Royal Kitchen The Tasting Room Toei Delights Treasure Palace Tsui Wah Varanda Vergnano Italian Vida Rica Restaurant Windows Restaurant Xin Yamazato Ying Zi Yat Heen

hoTel baRs & lounGesBar Azul Cascades Florian Bar Macallan Whiskey Bar &

Lounge Pearl Lounge R Bar Rendezvous Sakazuki Spectra BarThe Crystal Piano Vasco Vida Rica Bar Wave Whisky Bar Windor Lounge

ResTauRanTs360° Café A Lorcha A Petisqueira Akasaka Café Albergue 1601 Andrew’s Café – Univ of Macau Antica Trattoria Antonio Restaurant Banza Café Litoral Camoes Restaurant Clube Militar de Macau Cozinha Pinocchio Taipa Fat Siu Lau Henri’s Galley Hero Chinese Restaurant La Bonne Heure

La Cucina Lord Stow’s Bakery – ColoaneLua Azul Macau Dynasty Café Men Mung Seafood Miramar Restaurant O Porto Interior Restaurante Old Taipa Tavern Pizzeria Toscana Portal Wine Bar Restaurant Litoral Restaurante Escada Restaurante Espaco Lisboa Restaurante Fernando Talay Thai Restaurant The Corner’s The Roadhouse

ClubhousesCaesars Golf French Wine Institute La Baie du Noble La Cite Lake View Tower Macau Golf & Country Club Macau Int'l Airport Lounge Macau Jockey Club Manhattan Millennium Court Nova City Ocean Garden Clubhouse One Central Clubhouse Tenis Civil The Buckingham The Pacifica Garden The Praia The Residencia

CoFFee shopsCafé Ou Mun Cuppa Coffee Illy CoffeePacific Coffee – Galaxy, COD,

SCC & The ResidenciaSinging Bean Coffee Starbucks

healTh & spaAltira Spa Banyan Tree – Spa Bodhi Spa Crown – The Spa Four Season – Spa Grand Lapa Spa Isala Spa Malo Clinic Spa Mandarin Oriental – The Spa Rock Spa – Hard Rock Royal Thai Spa Shine Spa Six Senses Spa The Spa at Encore The Spa at Wynn

TK IN TrANSIT

Air Macau Avis Burgeon Rent a car Jet Asia Macau Jet Sky Shuttle Turbojet

m a r c h 2 0 1 3 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | 71

Page 74: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

dessert

This inspired train of sweet, tart, strawberry flavors was created by MGM Macau’s Pastry Chef Günther Wolfsgruber. Passion fruit and strawberry macarons alternate with passion fruit and strawberry sherbet to make a colorful dessert

kebab, served on rhubarb confit, with Greek yogurt, fresh strawberry salad and jellied strawberry consommé.

如此甜蜜可口的草莓酱甜品列车,是澳门美高梅行政总饼师渥宽德的精心杰作。交替串连的热情果及草莓马卡龙,

表面铺上冰冻的混合奶霜作点缀,配以由希腊乳酪,新鲜草莓沙拉及草莓果冻以及大黄酱,实在一试倾心。

72 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

Page 75: TK6 The Joy of Pastry

dessert

This inspired train of sweet, tart, strawberry flavors was created by MGM Macau’s Pastry Chef Günther Wolfsgruber. Passion fruit and strawberry macarons alternate with passion fruit and strawberry sherbet to make a colorful dessert

kebab, served on rhubarb confit, with Greek yogurt, fresh strawberry salad and jellied strawberry consommé.

如此甜蜜可口的草莓酱甜品列车,是澳门美高梅行政总饼师渥宽德的精心杰作。交替串连的热情果及草莓马卡龙,

表面铺上冰冻的混合奶霜作点缀,配以由希腊乳酪,新鲜草莓沙拉及草莓果冻以及大黄酱,实在一试倾心。

72 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | m a r c h 2 0 1 3

Page 76: TK6 The Joy of Pastry