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AN OVERVIEW OF WOOL INDUSTRY

WOOL RESEARCH ASSOCIATION, THANE

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Indian Wool Industry & Business Scenario (Domestic & Global)

(Tables I, II & III)

Item Production(Quantity)

Exports(Value Cr.)

Yarn (Woolen /Worsted/Shoddy) 105 mil kg 329

Wool Tops 29 mil kg 107

Fabric (Woolen/Worsted/Shoddy) 84 mil mt 301

Blankets (shoddy /worsted) 12 mil pcs 54

Knitwears /RMG 13 mil kg 886

Shawls/Scarves/Stoles & Mufflers 25 mil pcs 402

Handmade carpets 8 mil sq.mt 2556

Machine made carpets 0.50 mil sq.mt 1

Miscellaneous - 9.00

Total - Rs. In crores 4645

Table I - Estimated Production & Exports of Woolen Items

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Total Indian Textiles & Clothing, Exports Size : $ 36 billion. Contribution of Wool Textiles & Clothing to this : 7 % Wool Fibre Consumption as % of Total Textile Fibre : 2 %

Global Share of Indian Textile & Clothing Exports : 3 % (value) Global Share of Wool Textiles & Clothing : 1 % (value)

Indian Textile Sector hands employed : 82 million Indian Wool Sector - - do - : 1.5 million

Table II - Indian Wool Business Scenario

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Indian shareof world figures*

Wool Top Exports 1.0 % Worsted Wool Yarn Exports 3.16% Woolen Yam Exports 1.5 % Wool Worsted Fabric Exports 2.23% Wool Knitwear Exports 4.34%

Wool Menswear Exports 9.56%Wool Womenswear Exports 4.86% Wool Blankets Exports 27.0 %

% by weight of above catgs. 3.6 %(by value 1%)

Table III - Share of Wool Exports from India in various important sectors :

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a. Professionally Competent ManpowerQuote by Christiansen :

A country that trains its engineers and technologists well, then rewards them both with real and psychic income should have little trouble competing in a world economy that thrives on trading high quality hi tech products over international boundaries.

b. Availability of Resources and IntegratedDevelopment

c. Latest Machinery & Technology

Infrastructure for Technical Upgradation

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Indian Wool Fibre

- Breeding

- Classification

- Marketing

- Speciality Firbes Pashmina & Angora

Technological Upgradation Status & Challenges

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Ministry of Textiles, Ministry of Agriculture & AnimalHusbandry & Central Wool Development Board with themission :

Special emphasis relating to sheep breeding and sheep well being to

improve Wool Quality & meat Quantity.

Improvement of the woolen yarn industry and pre & post loomprocessing.

Support to the cottage industry for product development, design and

R&D inputs, etc.

Widening the market for Indian wool beyond the Indian carpetindustry

Development of Cashmere & Angora fibre quality ,yield andprocessing.

Technological Upgradation Status & Challenges R& D Programme under IWIP through :(Shoddy, Woolen, Worsted, Knitwear & Carpets sections)

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On the farms Wool Fibre / ESP

- Plasma treated Wool & Angora - modify surface characteristics

- Optim Wool Fibre

- Organic Wool for wellness & healthy ecology.

- Chlorinated wool (Hercoset) Superwash, Polymer for Handle

- Carpet wools are specially treated by New Zealanders called Aurora.

- To reconceive wool as source of unique protein capable of formingthe base of new biopolymer products supplying radically newvalue chain from cosmetic to adhesive.

- Wool fibre in Building structures, Medical pads.

- Team 3 formula for Global Benchmarking for Top makers.

On-going Technological Upgradation (Global) (Slides 8 14)

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No revolutionary change in the basic technology has taken place, butautomation, precision setting and monitoring systems, providinglinkages between processes (also resulting in rationalisation).Among basic methods of yarn formation Ring Spinning still

commands the fort after introductions of Airjet Spinning, FrictionSpinning, Rotar Spinning.New attachments on Ring - for compact yarn (others - Siro, Solo, Bi-component, Stretch yarns, etc).

On the fabric weaving side, with the advent of new fibres and different

technologies product designing has played the major role alongwithproductivity improvements of the fabric forming machines (for woven,knitted and non-woven fabrics), eg Shuttleless loom with differentweft insertion techniques, adding electronics for sophistication andquality upgradation.

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Yarn & Fabric Formation


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- Challenging research in the field of new dyes and auxiliaries - Someexamples.

- Reactive Dyes for Black shade in tone, depth and fastness is beingdeveloped. Eg. Cibas Lanosol Black PV for wool

- Work for achieving high light fastness on wool to compete with fastness ofpigment dyed synthetics.

- Adoption of polyurethane elastane in wool and polywool fabrics posedproblem of colour bleeding, which was due to superficial staining ofelastane by disperse colours.

- Specific auxiliaries and methods need to be employed in dyeing ofSuperwash wool.

- Anti-setting chemicals used during Wool Dyeing to achieve desired fabricproperties.

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Dyeing

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Concept of WELLNESS is no more a fashionable term for textileconsumers. Most of the innovations are directed towards providingprotection to the life style by providing protective clothing, functionalfinishes and smart textiles. It has become possible to provide Vitamin C &E through stockings, telephones in jackets, musical clothings respondingto body comfort requirements.

- To produce total easy care i.e. machine washability, luxurious softhandle, lustrous sheen is being imparted by treatments like Basolanprocess

- The Stone Wash Denim is now being produced by enzymes

- Lot of R&D has taken place in perfecting wool bleaching, but still itcontinues

- UV Absorbers for wool against harmful effects of light and heatradiations e.g. Cibafast W which could be applied in the dye bath ordirectly to be fabric. These cannot be used with fluorescentbrighteners.

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Fabric Finishes

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- Bio-polishing of wool is again name given to controlled enzyme anti-felting treatment to get reduced prickle, reduced pilling, better handle,increase softness, cleaner appearance and improved drape.

- Mechanical /chemical stretch, also called natural stretch in woolfabrics. This is a effect of controlled chemical treatment, one suchcommercial process being Aro-Stretch (Italy) developed incollaboration with IWS.

- Anti- soil and anti-static finishes are being tried to improve wearperformance.

- Composite (multi layer fabric) clothing example High Altitude Clothing

light, protecting cold, wind and rain- middle layer of wool fleece(quick wicking ability with insulator, retain 30% moisture beforefeeling wet).

- Smart Textiles & Intelligent textiles. Bleeping bikini for sun seekers toprevent them falling asleep. Inbuilt sensing and reacting electrical,thermal, magnetic and chemical STIMULI . For scores of uses. Healthand Defence .

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Fabric Finishes

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- Customized machine lines are being manufactured under license from

Process Developers /Upgradation of machines taking place in consultationwith new technologies e.g. Wool Scouring Machine by Andars, New Zealandand Sirolan CF by CSIRO, Australia.

- Super wash Wool Production by Kroy, Kroy Shrink-proofing Plant forwool top. This is being developed by Kroy, Canada and CMT, Italy.

- For Wool Top making many innovations have taken place in the offering ofcombing machines Era by NSC, France and Millennium by St. Andrea.

- Suzuki Automatic Sample Warper, controlling upto 8 warp yarns.

Machinery & Equipment

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- Electronically controlled automatic Drawing-in machines, Electronic Dobby,

Electronic Jacquard has simplified earlier complicated processes.

- Revolutionary changes are taking place in the upgradation and designing offinishing machines for different operations, with automation, processcontrol & converting batch into continuous process.

- Developing innovative attachments for ring frame to produce yarn withdifference in quality, latest example being Compact Spinning.

- Fully Automatic Dye House from dye to dyed material.

Machinery & Equipment

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- Fibre

- Chemical Technology & Processing

- Machinery & Equipment

- Technological Dissemination

Priority Areas for Technological Upgradation(Slides 15-19)

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- Improving Quality and Yield of good Carpet wools fromsheep.

- Wool Shearing, Grading and Certification

- Centralised Marketing domestic & exports.

- ESP for modification of fibre properties Chemical

modification / Scouring process upgradation.(Indian & Imported wool ).

Fibre

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- Dyeing, Bleaching & Printing Technology for wool.

- M/c washable, Shrink proofing, wrinkle free, minimum iron finish

- Carpet finishes, electrostatic charge dissipation, soil release (Exterior), soilattraction (Interior).

- Exotic blend products Wool Viscose, Wool Silk, Wool Polyamide etc forcomforts and cost. Wool with Angora and Cashmere for luxurious products.

- Memory suits & garments, high altitude wears, bullet-proof wears, etc import substitution

- Improve fine Indian wool products by finishing.

- Special effect fabrics with special finishing techniques- for comfort andaesthetics.

- Mfg. & Dev. Of Special chemicals and auxiliaries

Chemical Technology & Processing

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- W ool fibre scouring upgradation( fine fibres , grease recovery etc )

- Carding (woolen and worsted )

- Dehairing for Pashmina & Angora fibres.

- Sample looms with electronic Jacquard

- Fabric scouring cum milling ,

- Dyeing fibre and fabric .

- Testing equipments.

Machinery & EquipmentIndigenisation & Upgrading Existing - At par

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To Decentralised Sector

- R & D outcome by Projects & Workshops in clusters.

- By Establishing Wool Technology Parks in three main clustersand establishing common facility centres.

- Upgrading R&D facilities at suitable institutions.

- By exclusive publications of R&D activities (wool)..

THANKS !

Technological Dissemination

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