Wales 4 Snowdonia

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3 PERFECT DAYS

DAY 1 // CONQUER THE MOUNTAIN

Check the weather forecast before making an assault on Snowdon (p226). If yourefit, catch the Snowdon Sherpa bus to Pen-y-Pass and take the Pyg Track (p227). Timeyour descent via the Rhyd Ddu Path to catch the Welsh Highland Railway (p244) backto Caernarfon. If youre not up for climbing, head to Llanberis and take the SnowdonMountain Railway (p227). Youll be up and down the mountain in 2 hours, leavingplenty of time to check out the National Slate Museum (p230) and Dolbadarn Castle(p231) before stocking up on mead at Snowdon Honey Farm (p231). Head to Caer-narfon and watch the sunset over the Menai Strait from beside the city walls before

dining at the Black Boy Inn (p235).

DAY 2// BE A PILGRIM

Spend the morning exploring Caernarfon Castle (p233) before heading for the LlnPeninsula. Ideally youll have prebooked a boat to Bardsey but if theyre not running,make do with gazing at the island from Braich-y-Pwll (p239). Abersoch (p241), Cric-cieth (p243) and Porthmadog (p244) are good places to stop for the night, but Harlech(p218) has the best restaurants along with another World Heritage castle.

DAY 3 // A SCENIC OVERLOAD

Wherever you ended up, take the scenic A498 through the Pass of Aberglaslyn andback into the national park. Spend the day pottering along the route between Beddge-lert (p228) and Betws-y-Coed (p222), stopping at the lakes, lookouts and falls. Betwsmakes a wonderfully atmospheric coda to a Snowdonia stay.

SNOWDONIA &THE LLN

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CaernarfonBay

PorthOer

Hell'sMouth(Porth

Neigwl)

CardiganBay

PorthDinllaen

LlnPeninsula

Braich-y-Pwll

Penygroes

Dinas

Llanbedrog

Plas Menai

Llanystumdwy

Llithfaen

Nefyn

ClynnogFawr

Aberdaron Abersoch

Morfa Nefyn

Tudweiloig

Pont Glas

Criccieth

Rhiw

Trefor

Pistyll

Pwllheli

Caernarfon

PenarthFawr

St Tudwal's

Isle ofAnglesey

BardseyIsland

Yr Eifl(560m)

AberdaronBay

Abersoch Bay

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SNOWDONIA & THE LLN

Wales rises to a crescendo at this

beautiful, surprisingly

accessible, peak

p226SNOWDON

p245

WELSH HIGHLAND

RAILWAY

A (nearly) coast-to-coast alpine

train journey you'll never forget

A Byzantine show of strength

beside the Menai Strait

p233CAERNARFON CASTLE

The Lln gazes towards the holy

island from this magical land's end

p239BRAICH-Y-PWLL

0

GETTING AROUND

Driving through this region involves zigzagging around mountains on well-kept,

exceedingly scenic, minor roads. A network of regular and heritage lines makes a

rail-based itinerary appealing. The Cambrian Coast Line connects Machynlleth to

Pwllheli, via Porthmadog, where the Ffestiniog & Welsh Highland Railways head to

Blaenau Ffestiniog and (by the time you're reading this) Caernarfon. From Blaenau

the Conwy Valley Line heads through Betws-y-Coed to Llandudno. Pwllheli is the

hub for Lln buses, while Snowdon Sherpa services zip around Snowdonia.

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TremadogBay

DoveyValley

Valeof Edeirion

LlynTrawsfynydd

Llyn Tegid(Bala Lake)

LlynEfyrnwy

Tanygrisiau

Llyn CowlydReservoir

LlynCwellyn

TraethBach

Coed-y-Brenin

Forest

BeddgelertForestPark

GwydyrForest

SnowdoniaNational

Park

Dovey

Trew

eryn

Eden

C

onwy

Dysy

nni

Wnion

Conw

y

DolgochFalls

SwallowFalls

Y Felinheli

Tremadog

Pen-y-Bont

Llwyngwern

Garreg

Rowen

Dolgarrog

Tal-y-Bont

Penmaenpool

Portmeirion

Snowdon

Llanfihangel y Pennant

Llanelltyd

Frongoch

Penmachno

Ceunant

LlanberisCapelCurig

Corris

Talsarnau

MachynllethTywyn

Llanrwst

Pen-y-Pass

Bethesda

DyffrynArdudwy

Harlech

Trawsfynydd

Dolgoch

Pentrefoelas

Barmouth

Fairbourne

Llanfair

NantGwynant

Bala

Betws-y-Coed

Llanuwchllyn

Beddgelert

Mallwyd

Abergynolwyn

RhydDdu

Dolgellau

BlaenauFfestiniog

Porthmadog

LlanFfestiniog

Bangor

NantGwernol

GreenWoodForest Park

CoedGarth

Gell NatureReserve

Arthog BogNatureReserve

Portmeirion

CymerAbbey

National SlateMuseum

Dinas EmrysSygun Copper Mine

GlyderFach

CarneddLlewelyn(1064m)

CaderIdris(893m)

Mt Snowdon(1085m)

DyfiForest

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p230

NATIONAL SLATEMUSEUM

The sculpted mountainside starts

the story which this engaging

museum completes

Walk through a postcard of stone

cottages and cascading rivers

p222BETWS-Y-COED

Cliff edge views, a famous castle

and great places to eat

p218HARLECH

0 20 km

0 10 miles

18243140

2420

22 2843

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DISTANCE CHART (miles)

Note: Distances areapproximate

Bala

Caerna

rfon

Betw

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Porth

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Dolgellau

Porthmadog

Bala

Betws-y-Coed

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SNOWDONIA & THE LLN GETTING STARTED

SNOWDONIA & THE LLNGETTING STARTED

MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR TIME

This part of Wales really packs it in, from rugged mountain trails

and coastal paths to World Heritage castles and historic train lines.

Its dominated by Snowdonia National Park, where the mightiest

peaks south of Scotland scrape moody skies. With such a formid-able mountain shield, its little wonder that the much less visited

Lln Peninsula has held tightly to its language and culture. In fact

the county of Gwynedd, which covers most of this region, has the

highest proportion of Welsh speakers in the country over 76%. In

many ways, this northwestern corner of Wales distils the very es-

sence of Welshness just dont mention that to the folks in Cardiff!

TOP COURSES

CANOLFAN TRYWERYN NATIONAL WHITEWATER CENTRE

Hurtle down the River Tryweryn in a rubber raft (p220).

PARC GLYNLLIFON

Try slate shaping, blacksmithing, appliqu or wood carving at a Craft Taster Day (p237).

PLAS MENAI

Learn to sail, kayak or windsurf on the calm waters of the Menai Strait (p236).

PLAS Y BRENIN NATIONAL MOUNTAIN CENTRE

Unleash your inner mountain goat, with instruction in rock climbing and mountain-eering (p226).

SNOWBIKERS

Learn to mountain bike or take a guided tour (%430628; www.snowbikers.com; per

day 60).

TSIAMAS

Be trained to manipulate a mandolin, twang a telyn(harp) or twiddle affidl(violin)at the National Centre for Welsh Folk Music (p212).

WELSH LANGUAGE & HERITAGE CENTRE

Take a crash course in Cymraeg and get a grip on one of the oldest living languagesin Europe (p237).

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SNOWDONIA & THE LLN GETTING STARTED

GETTING AWAY FROMIT ALL

Mawddach EstuaryWetlands andwoodlands edge the river and although

youre never far from the road, its a

peaceful place to stretch your legs (p215).

Gwydyr ForestWalking and mountain-biking paths criss-cross the forest sur-

rounding Betws-y-Coed (p225).

Snowdons Southern ApproachesWhile the summit and the tracks leading

from Llanberis and Pen-y-Pass can get

log-jammed in summer, the other half of

the mountain is much quieter (p227).

Lln PeninsulaIts much less visitedthan Snowdonia National Park; wander

its forgotten corners on the Lln Coastal

Path and the Edge of Wales Walk (p241).

ADVANCE PLANNING

Snowdon Mountain Railway Withthe new visitor centre now open at the

summit, its best to book well ahead tosecure your place on the train (p227).

Prisoner Convention (www.netreach

.net/~sixofone/)One to either pencil in or

avoid, the annual gathering of fans of

the cult TV show converge on Portmeir-

ion for a weekend in April.

Abersoch Jazz Festival (www.abersoch

jazzfestival.com)Hep cats join the surf rats

at Abersoch for a weekend of smooth

sounds in mid-June.

Bala Triathlons (www.wrecsamtri.org.uk)Bala gets booked up during the middle

distance triathlon in mid-June and the

standard version in mid-September.

TOP RESTAURANTS

CASTLE RESTAURANT &

ARMOURY BAR

Big Caribbean flavours come to little oldHarlech (p219).

CASTLE COTTAGE

French technique brought to bear onWelsh classics (p219).

TYDDYN LLAN

Highly rated country restaurant offeringa palpable sense of occasion (p222).

BISTRO BETWS-Y-COED

A bastion for Welsh cooking, traditional

and modern (p224).

POACHERS RESTAURANT

Traditional Welsh dishes married withexotic flavours (p243).

RESOURCES

Abersoch & Lln Tourism

(www.aber

sochandllyn.co.uk) In-depth tourism informa-

tion for the Lln Peninsula

Gwynedd Council(www.gwynedd.gov.uk)

Public transport and event information

for the county

Met Office(www.metoffice.gov.uk/

loutdoor/mountainsafety)Up-to-date

weather conditions and forecasts

Snowdonia Mountains & Coast(www

.visitsnowdonia.info)Things to do, places to

visit and where to stay

Snowdonia National Park (www.eryri-npa.

gov.uk)The national parks online home

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SNOWDONIA NATIONAL PARK

SNOWDONIANATIONAL PARK

Snowdonia National Park (Parc Cen-edlaethol Eryri) was founded in 1951

(making it Wales first national park),

primarily to keep the area from being

loved to death. This is, after all, Wales

best-known and most heavily used slice

of nature, with the busiest part around

Snowdon (1085m). Around 750,000

people climb, walk or take the train

to the summit each year, and all those

sturdy shoes make trail maintenance a

never-ending task for park staff. Yet the

park is so much more than just Snow-

don, stretching some 35 miles east to

west and over 50 miles north to south

and incorporating coastal areas, rivers

and Wales biggest natural lake.

The Welsh name for Snowdonia, isEryri (eh-ruh-ree) meaning highlands.The Welsh call Snowdon Yr Wyddfa(uhr-with-vuh), meaning Great Tomb according to legend a giant called RitaGawr was slain here by King Arthur andis buried at the summit.

Like Wales other national parks, this

one is very lived-in, with sizeable townsat Dolgellau, Bala, Harlech and Betws-y-Coed. Two-thirds of the park is privatelyowned, with over three-quarters used forraising sheep and cattle. While the mostpopular reason for visiting the park is towalk, you can also go climbing, white-water rafting, kayaking and pony trek-

king, even windsurfing.The park is the only home to two en-

dangered species, an alpine plant calledthe Snowdon lily as well as the rainbow-coloured Snowdon beetle. Thegwyniadisa species of whitefish found only in LlynTegid (Bala Lake), which also has probablythe UKs only colony of glutinous snails.

The park authority publishes a freeannual visitor newspaper, which in-cludes information on getting around,park-organised walks and other activi-

ties. The Met Office keeps the weatherconditions constantly updated on itswebsite (www.metoffice.gov.uk/loutdoor/mountainsafety).

In the alpine reaches youll need tobe prepared to deal with hostile condi-tions at any time of the year; the sud-den appearance of low cloud and mist

is common, even on days that start outclear and sunny. Never head into iso-lated reaches without food, drink, warmclothing and waterproofs, whatever theweather. Carry andknow how to readthe appropriate large-scale OrdnanceSurvey (OS) map for the area, and carrya compass at all times. Also be aware

that even some walks described as easymay follow paths that go near very steepslopes and over loose scree the PygTrack up Snowdon, for example.

DOLGELLAU

%01341 / pop 2400

Dolgellau is a little place steeped in histo-

ry with a palpable olde worlde feel. Morethan 200 of its stern stone buildingsare listed for preservation the highestconcentration in Wales. Its thought theWelsh hero Owain Glyndr met withfellow rebels here, although the likelyvenue (on Bridge St) is now derelict andforgotten.

The Dolgellau area also has historicallinks with the Society of Friends (theQuakers). After George Fox visited in1657, preaching its philosophy of directcommunication with God, free fromcreeds, rites and clergy, a Quaker com-munity was founded here. Converts,from simple farmers to local gentry, were

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persecuted with vigour because their re-fusal to swear oaths in particular to theking was considered treasonous. Many

eventually emigrated to William PennsQuaker community in America.

Dolgellau was a regional centre forWales prosperous wool industry in the18th and early 19th centuries. Many ofthe towns finest buildings, sturdy andunornamented, were built at that timeand the town centre hasnt changed

all that much since. Local mills failedto keep pace with mass mechanisationhowever, and decline set in after about1800. The region bounced back whenthe Romantic Revival made Wales wildlandscapes popular with genteel travel-lers. There was also, surprisingly, a mi-nor gold rush here in the 19th century.

The wedding rings of Queen Elizabeth IIand Diana, Princess of Wales were madefrom Dolgellau gold, and there are plansto reopen the mine.

Today however, this grey-slate, charm-ingly grufflittle market town relies ontourism. One of Snowdonias premierpeaks, bulky Cader Idris, rises to the

south, the lovely Mawddach Estuary liesto the west and, to the north, the Coed yBrenin Forest Park offers glorious

mountain-biking country. In recent yearssome plush boutique accommodationoptions have sprung up, making it anappealing base from which to explore thenational park.

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION

TOURIST OFFICES //Tourist office &

national park information centre

(%422888; Eldon Sq;h9.30am-4.30pm) Sells an

excellent range of maps, local history books and leaflets

charting the trails for a climbing excursion to Cader Idris.

Upstairs theres a permanent exhibition on the regions

Quaker heritage in a suitably dour wood-panelled room.

ORIENTATION

Dolgellau sits at the confluence of theRiver Wnion (a tributary of the Mawd-dach) and the smaller River Arran. TheA470 passes just north of the Wnion,while the town centre is to its south,reached by Bont Fawr (Big Bridge; built1638).

You cant really go wrong basing yourself in any of this regions charismatic towns and

villages. Try Dolgellau for excellent boutique accommodation, Harlech for a genteel ambi-

ence and restaurants, Bala for outdoor activities and Welsh-language immersion, Betws-

y-Coed or Beddgelert for alpine prettiness, Llanberis for interesting sights, Caernarfon

for its medievalness, Aberdaron for isolation and Abersoch, Criccieth or Porthmadog for

beaches. What Snowdonias YHAs may lack in creature comforts, they more than make up

for in stunning locations (see p328) and they are essential pit stops for walkers and cyclists.

However, its once again B&Bs that have topped our picks for the region:

Ffynnon(p339) Boutique Dolgellau guesthouse with a contemporary design.

Maelgwyn House(p339) Friendly hosts and homely rooms in Harlech.

Victoria House(p341) Exceptional guesthouse within Caernarfons old town walls.

Venetia(p342) Slick designer rooms above an Italian restaurant in Abersoch.

Yr Hen Fecws(p342) Characterful slate cottage in Porthmadog.

SNOWDONIA & THE LLN ACCOMMODATION

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EXPLORING DOLGELLAU

TSIAMAS // CELEBRATING A

TRADITION EVEN OLDER THAN TOM

JONES

Dolgellau has been an important hubfor Welsh folk music ever since it heldthe first Welsh folk festival in 1952. Inrecognition of that, the towns formermarket hall has been transformed into theNational Centre for Welsh Folk Music(%421800; www.tysiamas.com; Eldon Sq; adult/child

4/2;h10am-5pm Mar-Oct, 10am-4pm Tue-Sat Nov-

Feb), which opened in 2007. Its named

after Elis Son Siamas, a harpist fromDolgellau who was the royal harpist toQueen Anne between 1702 and 1714. Hewas one of the first people to introducethe triple harp to Wales. The permanentexhibition includes audiovisual clips, mu-sical instruments and interesting displaysabout Welsh folk traditions. Yet its not

just a museum; it has a recording studio,stages workshops and performances, andoffers lessons on traditional instruments.

MAWDDACH TRAIL //

PICTURESQUE PEDALLING ORSTROLLING

The 9.5-mile Mawddach Trail(www.mawddachtrail.co.uk)is a flat (and in placeswheelchair-accessible) path that followsan old train line through woods and pastwetlands on the southern side of theMawddach Estuary, before crossing overthe train viaduct to Barmouth (whereyou can catch the bus back). The trailstarts in the car park beside the bridge.

MAWDDACH WAY // A MORE

CHALLENGING MAWDDACH TRACK

While the Mawddach Trail follows theestuarys southern edge, Mawddach Way(www.mawddachway.co.uk)is a 30-mile, two- to

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DOLGELLAU 0 200 m0 0.1 miles

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ToCymerAbbey (1.5mi);Coed y BreninForest Park(7mi); Fairbourne

(8mi); Barmouth (9.5mi)

ToBala (18mi)

ESSENTIAL

INFORMATION

Tourist Office & National

Park Information Centre......1 B2

EXPLORING

DOLGELLAU

Mawddach Trail &

Mawddach Way......................2A1

T Siamas .....................................3 B3

GASTRONOMIC

HIGHLIGHTS@Dylanwad Da ..............................4 B2

Parliament House......................5 B2

Popty'r Dref .................................6 B3

Royal Ship Hotel ........................7 B2

Unicorn....................................(see 11)

Y Sospan.......................................8 B2

ACCOMMODATIONi (p339)Bryn Mair House ........................9A3

Ffynnon ......................................10A3

Y Meirionnydd..........................11 C3

TRANSPORTBus Stop......................................12 B3

Dolgellau Cycles ......................13 B2

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three-day track looping through the hillson either side. Although the highest pointis 346m, by the end of the undulatingpath youll have climbed 2226m. The of-

ficial guide splits the route into three legs:BarmouthTaicynhaeaf (10 miles, five tosix hours), TaicynhaeafPenmaenpool (9miles, four to five hours) and Penmaen-poolBarmouth (11 miles, six to sevenhours). Fit walkers should be able to do itin two days, with pit stops at Barmouthand Dolgellau.

An A5 booklet can be ordered ordownloaded online (booklet/download10/5); GPS route data can be down-loaded for free.

PUBS // CAP OFF A HARD DAYS

HOLIDAYING

For a straightforward pint with the lo-cals, try the Unicorn(%422742; SmithfieldSq)or the ivy-covered Royal Ship Hotel(%422209; www.royalshiphotel.co.uk; Queens Sq).

GASTRONOMIC HIGHLIGHTS

DYLANWAD DA

%422870; www.dylanwad.co.uk; 2 Smithfield St;

mains 13-19;hThu-Sat Apr-Sep

Informal cafe, wine and tapas bar by day,contemporary restaurant by night, thiswell-run, low-lit eatery has been servingup high-quality food for over 20 years.A long-standing favourite on the Snow-donia scene, it has a healthy wine list andan imaginative menu.

PARLIAMENT HOUSE

%421938; Glyndr St; mains 4-6;h9.30am-

5.30pm Mon-Sat;W

With a fantastic period setting in a GradeII-listed former ironmongers shop, stillwith its original fittings, this atmosphericcoffee shop has light meals (soup, Welshrarebit, sandwiches, ciabatta, baguettes),newspapers to browse, free internet ac-

cess for patrons and a huge range ofspeciality teas.

POPTYR DREF

%422507; Smithfield St; honey buns 65pHello honey buns! Were not beingrude theyre the house speciality at thisfantastic deli, one of the few left withthe original bakery out the back. Get inquick; theyre usually sold out by 11am.

Y SOSPAN

%423174; Queens Sq; breakfast & lunch 3-7,

dinner 10-17;hbreakfast & lunch daily, dinner

Wed-Sun

In a book-lined and woody 1606 build-ing that once served as a prison, thisrelaxed eatery serves fry-up breakfasts,sandwiches, jacket potatoes and lightcooked meals during the day. At night, itswitches to a heavier bistro menu, where

lamb plays a starring role and most ofthe desserts have been on the booze,including an excellent bread-and-butterpudding.

TRANSPORT

BIKE //Dolgellau Cycles(%423332; Smith-

field St) Rents bikes, performs repairs and offers advice

on local cycle routes. Ln Las Cymru, the Welsh National

Cycle Route (Sustrans route 8; see p302), passes through

Dolgellau, heading north to Porthmadog and south to

Machynlleth.

BUS //Buses stop on Eldon Sq in the heart of town.

Routes include 28 to Penmaenpool (five minutes) and

Fairbourne (20 minutes); X32 to Aberystwyth (1 hours),

Machynlleth (35 minutes), Porthmadog (50 minutes),

Caernarfon (1 hours) and Bangor (two hours); 35 to

Coed y Brenin (15 minutes) and Blaenau Ffestiniog (54

minutes); and X94 to Barmouth (24 minutes), Bala (35

minutes), Llangollen (1 hours) and Wrexham (two

hours).

PARKING //Theres a car park just south of the River

Wnion, next to Bont Fawr (50p per hour, over four hours

5.30, free 6pm to 8am).

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AROUND DOLGELLAU

TALYLLYN RAILWAY AND

TALYLLYN LAKE // THOMAS

THE TANK ENGINES REAL-LIFEINSPIRATION

Famous as the inspiration behind Rev WAwdrys Thomas the Tank Enginestor-ies, the narrow-gauge Talyllyn Railway(%01654-710472; www.talyllyn.co.uk; Wharf Station,

Tywyn; adult/child 13/6.25;hcheck online timetable)was opened in 1865 to carry slate fromthe Bryn Eglwys quarries near Abergy-nolwyn. In 1950 the line was saved fromclosure by the worlds first railway pres-ervation society. Its one of Wales mostenchanting little railways and puffs for7scenic, steam-powered miles up theFathew Valley to Abergynolwyn. Thereare five stations along the way, each withwaymarked walking trails (and waterfalls

at Dolgoch and Nant Gwernol); leafletson these are available at the stations.Your ticket entitles you to all-day travel.

At Tywyns Wharf Station, the Nar-row Gauge Railway Museum(www.ngrm.org.uk; admission free;h10am-4.30pm May-Sep,

10am-2pm Oct)is one for the history buffs,with shiny narrow-gauge steam locomo-

tives and the story of the volunteers whopreserved the railway.

About 2 miles northeast of Abergynol-wyn along the B4405 is Talyllyn Lake,a substantial and tranquil body of wateredged by fields and hills and overlookedby Cader Idris. Its stocked with troutand popular with anglers.

Tywyn is on the Cambrian CoastLine, with direct trains to Machynlleth(4.50, 26 minutes), Fairbourne (3, 17minutes), Barmouth (4.50, 25 minutes),Porthmadog (8.50, 1 hours) andPwllheli (9.90, two hours). Bus 28 fromAberystwyth (1 hours) to Dolgellau (55minutes) via Machynlleth (35 minutes)and Fairbourne (35 minutes) stops here.

CADER IDRIS // LESS TAXING

THAN SNOWDON BUT A LEGENDARY

CLIMB

Cader Idris (893m), or the Seat of

Idris (a legendary giant), is a hulking,menacing-looking mountain with anappropriate mythology attached. Itssaid that hounds of the underworld flyaround its peaks, and strange light ef-fects are often sighted in the area. Itsalso said that anyone who spends thenight on the summit will awake either

mad or a poet although perhaps youdhave to be a little mad or romantic toattempt it in the first place. Regardlessof its repute, its popular with walkersand its the parks favourite locale forrock climbers.

The usual route to the summit is theDolgellau or TNant Path, southeastfrom TNant Farm on the A493. The

farm is 3 miles west of Dolgellau, justbeyond Penmaenpool. Its a rocky butsafe, straightforward route, taking aboutfive hours there and back.

The easiest but longest route (5 mileseach way, six hours return) is the Ty-wyn or Llanfihangel y Pennant Path, agentle pony track that heads northeast

from the hamlet of Llanfihangel y Pen-nant, joining the TNant Path at thelatters midpoint. Llanfihangel is 1.5miles from the terminus of the TalyllynRailway (p214) at Abergynolwyn.

The shortest (3 miles each way) butsteepest route is the Minffordd Path,running northwest from the Dol Idris

car park, a few hundred metres down theB4405 from Minffordd, itself 6.5 milesfrom Dolgellau on the A487 Machynl-leth road. This route, taking aroundfive hours there and back, requires themost caution, especially on the way backdown.

Whichever route you choose, wearstout shoes, carry protective clothing

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and check the weather conditions, eitheronline (www.metoffice.gov.uk/loutdoor/mountainsafety) or at the Dolgellautourist office (p211). It also stocks pam-

phlets on each route (40p).

FAIRBOURNE // WHERE THOMAS

GOES ON HIS HOLIDAYS, PERHAPS

Fairbourne has a lovely, long beachbut little else to offer except the steam-hauled Fairbourne Railway(%01341-250362; www.fairbournerailway.com; Beach Rd; adult/

child 7.80/4.20;hcheck online timetable), Walesonly seaside narrow-gauge railway. Itwas built in 1895 to move materials forthe construction of the village. The lineheads north along the coast for 2.5 milesto Penrhyn Point, where there are ferriesacross the mouth of the Mawddach toBarmouth, timed to meet the trains.

Theres a restaurant at Penrhyn Point,while Fairbourne station has a cafe andthe take-it-or-leave-it Rowen IndoorNature Centre(admission free;h10.30am-4.30pm), showcasing an odd mix of ferrets,lizards and a model railway.

Fairbourne is on the Cambrian CoastLine, with direct trains to Machynlleth

(4.50, 26 minutes), Tywyn (3, 17 min-utes), Barmouth (2, seven minutes),Porthmadog (6.20, 58 minutes) andPwllheli (8.70, 1 hours). Bus 28 fromAberystwyth (two hours) to Dolgel-lau (20 minutes) via Machynlleth (1hours) and Tywyn (35 minutes) stopshere.

MAWDDACH ESTUARY //

TREASURED BY WALKERS AND

WARBLERS

The glorious Mawddach Estuary is astriking sight: a mass of water flankedby woodlands, wetlands and the roman-tic mountains of southern Snowdonia.There are two Royal Society for the Pro-

tection of Birds (RSPB) nature reserves(www.rspb.org.uk; admission free) in the estuaryvalley. On the south side, Arthog Bogis a small wetland reserve favoured by

cuckoos, grasshopper warblers, lesserredpolls, reed buntings and siskins. Set inoak woodlands along the northern side,Coed Garth Gell has two circular walk-ing trails; one 1.25 miles, the other 1.5miles. Spring visitors include redstarts,wood warblers and pied flycatchers,while in summer you might spot dippers

and in winter, woodcocks.The estuary is easily reached on foot or

by bike from Dolgellau or Barmouth viathe Mawddach Trail (p212). Arthog Bogis 8 miles west of Dolgellau on the accessroad to Morfa Mawddach station, offtheA493, while Coed Garth Gell is 2 mileswest of Dolgellau on the A496.

MAWDDACH RESTAURANT &

BAR // FOOD WITH A VIEW

Two miles west of Dolgellau on theA496, Mawddach(%01341-424020; www.mawddach.com; Llanelltyd; mains 10-17;hlunch

Wed-Sun, dinner Wed-Sat)brings a touch of ur-ban style to what was once a barn. Black

slatefl

oors, brown leather seats and pan-oramic views across to Cader Idris setthe scene. The food is equally impressive:meat straight from nearby farms, freshlocal fish specials and traditional Sundayroasts (two/three courses 13/17).

CYMER ABBEY // A PICTURESQUE

PICNIC SPOT

This Cistercian abbey, founded in 1198,wasnt especially grand but the ruinedwalls and arches are still picturesque,especially when the daffodils are inbloom. There are walks in the vicinityand nice picnic spots near the river. Its 2miles northwest of Dolgellau, signpostedfrom the A470.

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COED Y BRENIN FOREST PARK //

MOUNTAIN BIKING AND MONKEY

BUSINESS

Covering 3640 hectares, this woodland

park is the premier location for moun-tain biking in Wales. Its laced with 70miles of purpose-built cycle trails, divid-ed into seven graded routes to suit begin-ners or guns, and impressively presentedby way of old-fashioned waterproof trailcards or downloadable geocaches andMP3 audio files.

The parks impressive environmentallyfriendlyvisitor centre(%01341-440747;www.forestry.gov.uk/wales;h9.30am-4.30pm

daily)is 8 miles north of Dolgellau offthe A470. You can buy the aforemen-tioned trail cards here, as well as a setcovering 10 tracks for walkers and run-ners. Theres also a cafe, toilets and achildrens play area, while downstairsyou can hire bikes from Beics Brenin(%01341-440728; www.beicsbrenin.co.uk; per day

25-50).At the time of research a new high-

wires course called Go Ape(%0845 6439215; www.goape.co.uk; adult/child from 30/20;

hEaster-Oct)was about to open.

BARMOUTH(ABERMAW)

%01341 / pop 2300

Despite a Blue Flag beach and the beau-tiful Mawddach Estuary on its doorstep,the seaside resort of Barmouth has afaded feel to it. In the summer monthsit becomes a typical kiss-me-quick sea-side resort all chip shops and dodgemcars catering to the trainloads arrivingin their thousands from Englands WestMidlands. Outside of the brash neon ofhigh summer its considerably mellowerbut it still has its rough edges.

Wales only surviving wooden railviaduct spans the estuary and has a

handy pedestrian walkway across it. Be-hind the town rises rocky Dinas Oleu,the first property ever bequeathed tothe National Trust (NT; in 1895) and an

irresistible temptation for walkers.


TOURIST OFFICES //Tourist office

(%280787; train station, Station Rd;h10am-5pm

Apr-Oct, 9.30am-3pm Mon-Fri Nov-Mar) Sells leaflets

on local walks and train tickets for mainline connections,

and offers an accommodation service.

ORIENTATION

The main commercial strip is spreadout along the A496; as it passes throughtown its known as Church St, High Stand King Edwards St.

EXPLORING BARMOUTH

WALKS // SOME CRACKING CALF-

MUSCLE WORKOUTS

Apart from the Mawddach Trail (p212),you can scramble up any one of severalalleys running offChurch St, whereyoull find the town gets more and morevertical, with better and better views,until the old houses are nearly on top of

BIRDWATCHING

Whether youre chuffed by choughs or

pleased by puffins, Wales offers plenty to

get twitchy about.

National Wetland Centre (p128)

Bwlch Nant yr Arian (p187)

Gigrin Farm Red Kite Feeding Station

(p194)

Mawddach Estuary (p215)

Ellins Tower RSPB Nature Reserve

(p258)

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one another. Carry on up to a networkof trails crossing 258m Dinas Oleu. Beareastwards around the headland onone of these paths or from the far end of

Church St to the popular PanoramaWalk, which has the best of the estuaryviews. For more details, ask at the tour-ist office.

If youd prefer some companionson the journey, the Barmouth Festivalof Walking (www.barmouthwalkingfestival

.co.uk)takes place over eight days in

September.

QUAYSIDE // BARMOUTHS

HISTORIC QUARTER

The oldest part of Barmouth is aroundChurch St and the quay to its south. Theunusual round building, TCrwn, wasonce a jail where drunk and disorderly

sailors could cool offuntil morning.Nearby, in TGwyn, supporters ofHenry Tudor once met to plot his ascen-sion to the throne. The ferry for PenrhynPoint (p215) departs from here.

LAST INN // COSY, ATMOSPHERIC

AND JUST PLAIN NICE

The best place to eat, drink and hang out

in Barmouth is this old inn(%280530; www.lastinn-barmouth.co.uk; Church St; mains 9-13), thelast one before you hit the estuary. Datingfrom the 15th century, its full of old shiptimber, inglenook fireplaces and theresa mural portraying the towns history.Most unusually, the mountain forms therear wall, with a spring emerging right

inside the pub. Kids are welcome andthe menus full of pub crowd-pleasers,including a traditional Sunday roast.Theres also live music from time to time.

Other decent pubs include the Tal yDon(%280508; www.tal-y-don.co.uk; High St)and the Royal Hotel(%281682; www.royalhotelsnowdonia.co.uk; King Edward St).

THREE PEAKS YACHT RACE //

STORMING THE HEIGHTS OF THREE

COUNTRIES

Held in late June, this arduous challenge

(www.threepeaksyachtrace.co.uk)has been at-tracting international crews for morethan 30 years. Contestants sail to Caer-narfon where two crew members run tothe summit of Snowdon. They then sailto Whitehaven in England and run upScafell Pike; and finally to Fort Williamin Scotland for an ascent of Ben Nevis

in all, 389 nautical miles of sailing and72 miles of fell running. The record timefor the race thus far is an astonishingtwo days, 14 hours and four minutes,achieved in 2002.

DRAGON THEATRE // TREADING

THE BARMOUTH BOARDS

The cultural life of the town is centredon the former Victorian chapel, whichis now the Dragon Theatre(Theatr yDdraig;%281697; www.dragontheatre.co.uk;

Jubilee Rd)and its occasional program oflive performances and cinema (includ-ing a kids film club). Things reallyheat up in September when the Dragonhosts most of the events in the week-

long Barmouth Arts Festival(www.barmouthartsfestival.co.uk).

TRANSPORT

BIKE //Ln Las Cymru passes through Barmouth, head-

ing north to Harlech and south to Dolgellau.

BUS //Buses stop on Jubilee Rd, across Beach Rd

from the train station. Routes include 38 to Harlech (34

minutes); and X94 to Dolgellau (24 minutes), Bala (1

hours), Llangollen (2 hours) and Wrexham (three

hours).

TRAIN //Barmouth is on the Cambrian Coast Line,

with direct trains to Machynlleth (7, 57 minutes),

Fairbourne (2, seven minutes), Harlech (3.70, 24

minutes), Porthmadog (5.40, 48 minutes) and Pwllheli

(8.70, 1 hours).

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HARLECH

%01766 / pop 2000

Hilly Harlech is best known for the

mighty, grey stone towers of its castle,framed by gleaming Tremadog Bay andwith the mountains of Snowdonia as abackdrop. Some sort of fortified struc-ture has probably surmounted the rocksince Iron Age times, but Edward I re-moved all traces when he commissionedthe construction of the castle. Finished in1289, Harlech Castle is the southernmostof four fortifications included in the Cas-tles and Town Walls of King Edward inGwynedd Unesco World Heritage Site.

Harlech is such a thoroughly pleasantplace that it has become one of the moregentrified destinations in Snowdonia every other shop seems to sell antiques ortea and there are some sophisticated places

to eat at and sleep in. While its bustling insummer, it can be deliciously sleepy oth-erwise. It makes a great base for a beachholiday or for day trips into the nationalpark and those views never get boring.



(%780658; High St;h9.30am-5.30pm Apr-Oct)

ORIENTATION

The sea used to lap at the base of the rocksbelow the castle but now this flat piece ofland is where youll find the train station,a petrol station and a newer clump ofhouses; its a strenuous 20-minute climb

on one of several stepped tracks up toHigh St, or about half a mile by road.

EXPLORING HARLECH

HARLECH CASTLE // THE CASTLE

OF LOST CAUSES

Run by Cadw (the Welsh historic monu-ments agency), Harlech Castle(%780552;

www.cadw.wales.gov.uk; adult/child 3.60/3.20;

h9am-5pm Apr-Oct, 9.30am-4pm Mon-Sat, 11am-

4pm Sun Nov-Mar)is an intimidating yetspectacular building. Edward I finished

it in 1289, the southernmost of his ironring of fortresses designed to keep theWelsh firmly beneath his boot.

Despite its might, the story-book fort-ress has been called the Castle of LostCauses because it has been lucklesslydefended so many times. Owain Glyndrcaptured it after a long siege in 1404. He

is said to have been crowned Prince ofWales in the presence of envoys fromScotland, France and Spain during one ofhis parliaments in the town. He was, inturn, besieged here by the future Henry V.

During the Wars of the Roses thecastle is said to have held out against asiege for seven years and was the last

Lancastrian stronghold to fall. Thesiege inspired the popular Welsh hymnMen of Harlech,which is still playedtoday in regimental marches and sungwith patriotic gusto at rugby matches.The castle was also the last to fall in theEnglish Civil War, finally giving in toCromwells forces in 1647.

The grey sandstone castles massive,twin-towered gatehouse and outer wallsare still intact and give the illusion ofimpregnability even now. Enter throughthe ticket office/gift shop and cross thedrawbridge through the gatehouse intothe compact inner ward. Four gloomyround towers guard the corners and youcan climb onto the ramparts for viewsin all directions. Some are closed offandpartly ruined, but you still get a good feelfor what it was once like. The fortressgreat natural defence is the seaward cliffface. When it was built, ships could sailsupplies right to the base.

The finest exterior view (with Snow-don as a backdrop) is a craggy outcrop

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on Ffordd Isaf, opposite MaelgwynHouse.

THEATR HARLECH // FOCAL

POINT FOR THESPIANS ANDFILM-LOVERS

Quite an impressive theatre for a townof this population, Theatr Harlech(%760557; www.theatrharlech.com; Ffordd Newydd)is a lively local arts centre that stagesdance, theatre and music, and screensa well-considered assortment of Hol-

lywood blockbusters and artier, higher-brow films.


CASTLE COTTAGE

%780479; www.castlecottageharlech.co.uk; Ffordd

Pen Llech; 3-course dinner 37

Within arrows reach of the castle, this

fine dining restaurant serves a deli-ciously patriotic menu revelling inlocal produce (Welsh lamb, beef andcod, Ruthin chicken, Menai mussels,wild duck, woodcock, cheeses) and tra-ditional dishes such as bara brith(richfruit tea loaf ) and rarebit. Yet the execu-tion is in the classical French style.

CASTLE RESTAURANT &

ARMOURY BAR

%780416; Castle Sq; mains 12-15;hlunch & dinner

Tue-Sun

If this place were transported to Lon-don it would have queues out the door,so one has to admire the gumption ofopening such a wonderful Caribbeanrestaurant in Wales, let alone sleepy Har-lech. Upstairs is the coolest cocktail barin North Wales red curtains, baublechandeliers and a smooth soundtrackof Trojan reggae. Downstairs, the localsare switching on to the spicy delights ofgoat curry, jerk chicken and blackenedsalmon.

CEMLYN TEA SHOP

%780425; www.cemlyntea.co.uk; High St; snacks

around 5;h10.30am-5pm Wed-Sun

The Coles (Jan and Geoff) may be merry

old souls but its tea thats king here.There are over 30 varieties on offer,along with a simple range of snacks toaccompany them and a slew of Tea GuildAwards of Excellence on the walls. Bestof all are the views from the terrace.

PLAS RESTAURANT

%780204; www.theplas.co.uk; High St; lunch 6-10,

dinner 16-25

Boasting the finest view of any restau-rant in town over the castle and acrossto the Lln Peninsula the Plas has acharmingly old-fashioned formal diningroom and a sunny terrace. Lunch takesthe form of baguettes and lighter cookedmeals, with heavier fare served at dinner:Welsh beef and lamb, roast duckling,local seafood etc.

Also recommended:Blue Lion(Y Llew Glas; 3 Plas y Goits; mains around

5) Deli-eatery with good-quality local produce, set in a

small courtyard.

Castle Creamery(Hufenfar Castell; Castle Sq)

Espresso and homemade ice cream.

Weary Walker(%780751; High St; mains 3-8;

hSat-Wed winter, extended summer) Bacon butties

and mugs of coffee are the go at this friendly place.

TRANSPORT

BIKE //Ln Las Cymru passes through Harlech, heading

north to Porthmadog and south to Barmouth.

BUS //Bus 38 to Barmouth (34 minutes) stops on

High St.

PARKING //The car park by the castle charges 2 for

two hours or 4 for 24 hours.

TRAIN //Harlech is on the Cambrian Coast Line,

with direct trains to Machynlleth (9.20, 1 hours),

Fairbourne (4.50, 46 minutes), Barmouth (3.70, 24

minutes), Porthmadog (3, 22 minutes) and Pwllheli

(6.30, 45 minutes).

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BALA (Y BALA) &AROUND

%01678 / pop 2000

The town of Bala is synonymous withbeautiful Llyn Tegid(Bala Lake), whichsits at the northeastern end of town andwas formed during the last Ice Age whenglaciers blocked up the valley of the RiverDee (Afon Dyfrdwy) with debris. This isWales largest freshwater lake 4 mileslong, three-quarters of a mile wide and,in places, over 140ft deep. The town, 18miles northeast of Dolgellau, sits wherethe River Dee flows out of the lake and isjoined by the River Tryweryn.

Bala is big on folk tales (see the boxedtext, p221). One such tale, an alternativeto the glacial version of events, says thevalley was once the home of a cruel anddissolute prince named Tegid Foel. One

night the harpist, at a banquet thrown bythe prince, kept hearing a small bird urg-ing him to flee the palace. He finally didso, fell asleep on a hilltop, and awoke atdawn to find the palace and principalitydrowned beneath the lake.

Bala was a centre for the Welsh woolindustry during the 18th century but to-

day its better known as a gateway townto Snowdonia National Park. It has alsorecently built a reputation as a centre forwater sports. The tiny main street is oftenbustling with visitors in summer andincreasingly dotted with adventure sportsand outdoors shops. The proximity to thelake and availability of top-notch adven-tures makes it a very lively little place.

The Romans had a camp here, theremains of which have been found onprivate land near the river. Just behindthe high street is a Norman motte (castlemound) that would once have supporteda wooden castle. Today Bala is staunchlyWelsh and a predominantly Welsh-speak-ing town about 80%. Local hero and MP

Thomas Edward Ellis, the Liberal Mem-ber of Parliament elected in 1886, was aprominent contemporary of Lloyd Georgein the movement towards an independ-

ent Wales at the end of the 19th century.One of Ellis friends was Michael D Jones,founder of the Welsh colony in Patagonia.



(%521021; Pensarn Rd;h10am-5pm Apr-Oct,

9.30am-3pm Fri-Mon Nov-Mar) Southwest of the centre,

next to the leisure centre.

ORIENTATION

The town is essentially one long street(the A494), called Pensarn Rd at thesouthwestern end, High St (Stryd Fawr)through the centre and Station Rd (HeolYr Orsaf) on the other side.

EXPLORING BALA & AROUND

BALA LAKE RAILWAY // STEAM

ALONG THE LAKESHORE

The genteel narrow-gauge Bala LakeRailway(%540666; www.bala-lake-railway.co.uk;adult/child return 9/3;hApr-Oct)was openedin 1868 to link mainline stations at Bala

and Dolgellau. In 1965 the entire routefrom Barmouth to Llangollen was shutdown and Bala station was closed. Vol-unteers reopened the 4.5-mile stretchfrom Bala to Llanuwchllyn in 1971, withvintage locomotives departing from alittle station at Penybont, half a milefrom Bala town centre, offthe B4391.

There are now up to four daily servicesskirting the lake for a scenic 90-minutereturn journey.

WHITE-WATER RAFTING //

YEAR-ROUND THRILLS ON THE

TRYWERYN

Due to the damming of the River Try-weryn in the 1960s, this and the River

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Dee are among the few Welsh riverswith fairly reliable white water all yearround. The Canolfan Tryweryn Na-tional Whitewater Centre (%521083;

www.ukrafting.co.uk; Frongoch; 1/2hr trip 32/60;

h9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-6pm Sat & Sun

Decmid-Oct)runs rafting trips on a 1.5-mile stretch of the Tryweryn that isalmost continuous class-III white waterwith class IV sections.

The centre is 3.5 miles northwest ofBala on the A4212. Bookings are bestmade at least two days in advance andare subject to cancellation in the event ofinsufficient releases from the dam callto check the day before.

The Adventure Breaks programmarries rafting with another activ-ity, such as rock climbing, mountainbiking, pony trekking, high ropes,bushcraft, 4x4 off-road driving, can-yoning, clay-pigeon shooting or quadbiking; prices start at 135 and includeaccommodation.

BALA ADVENTURE &

WATERSPORTS CENTRE // HEAD

OUT IN SEARCH OF TEGGIE

This one-stop activity and hire centre(%521059; www.balawatersports.com; Pensarn Rd),behind the tourist office by the lakeshore,offers windsurfing, sailing, canoeing, kay-aking, white-water rafting, mountain-bik-ing, rock-climbing and abseiling courses(prices start from 35/60 per half-/fullday). Rental gear includes kayaks (10),canoes (20), rowing boats (24), peda-loes (15), windsurfers (16) and wayfar-ers (30); all prices are per hour.


EAGLES INN

%540278; www.theeagleinn-bala.co.uk; Llanuwchl-

lyn; mains 7-15;hlunch Fri-Sun, dinner daily

Right down the other end of the lake,Tafarn Yr Eryod (as its mainly Welsh-speaking clientele know it) is a consum-mate North Welsh village pub a friend-ly community boozer with a popular

Sightings of the beast of Llyn Tegid (Bala Lake) have been reported since at least the 1920s

and it has been variously likened to a crocodile or a small dinosaur. Affectionately known

as Teggie, this Welsh answer to the Loch Ness monster prompted a three-day search by a

Japanese film crew in 1995, but their mini-submarine failed to find any sign of the elusive

beast.

One man who claims to have seen the beastie from the deep, however, is local

farmer Rhodri Jones, whose sheep farm extends to the lakes foreshore. One night in

the summer of 2006 I was heading home from the fields when I saw something mak-

ing concentric ripples. The lake was very still, pretty spooky in the dusk and the water

was very calm. Thats when I saw the top of a creature about the size of a crocodile

moving through the water.Since then Jones has spoken to other local farmers and found that many of them

have stories of mysterious sightings and evidence they have collected dating back

over 60 years.

Bala is a landlocked, volcanic lake and there are species of fish living there that are

only to be found in the lake, says Jones. I think theres something special about the

waters, but we live in a narrow-minded world where people are afraid of the unex-

plained. Still, humanity always needs a mystery.

THE LEGEND OF TEGGIE

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dartboard. The food, however, is a stepabove. Most of the vegies and some ofthe meat comes from their own garden,and for dessert theres a delicious array of

homemade pies and puddings.

PLAS-YN-DRE

%521256; 23 High St; lunch 5-11, dinner 12-16

The decor in this smart eatery is a taste-ful take on country-kitchen chic, finishedwith soft-leather chairs. The hearty din-ner menu has lots of interesting Welshdishes, including fresh Menai mussels.

SIOP Y GORNEL

%520423; www.siop-y-gornel.co.uk; 21 Tegid St;

h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Wed

It takes 24 hours to make sourdough thisgood and thats just one of the home-made, organic delights on sale at thiswonderful little delicatessen-bakery-cafe.

Staffalso concoct delicious baguettes,croissants, cakes, slices and pies. Stop into fill up your picnic hamper or settle inwith a newspaper and coffee.

TYDDYN LLAN

%01490-440264; www.tyddynllan.co.uk; Llandrillo;

2-/3-course lunch 24/30, dinner 39/48;

hlunch Fri-Sun, dinner daily

The glowing reputation of this countryrestaurant with rooms was given a boostin 2010 by some Michelin starlight. Onour last visit some dishes were extraordi-nary and some merely good, but overallit was a memorable experience. Pro-ceedings kick offwith complementarycanaps served in the sitting room before

progressing into the elegant dining area.Its 7.5 miles east of Bala on the B4401.

TRANSPORT

BIKE //Roberts Cycles(%520252; www

.rhroberts-cycles.co.uk; High St; per day 13) Rents out

mountain bikes. The tourist office stocks a Bike Routes

Around Balapamphlet.

BUS //X94 from Dolgellau (35 minutes), Barmouth (1

hours), Llangollen (one hour) and Wrexham (1 hours)

stops on the High St.

BETWS-Y-COED%01690 / pop 950

If youre looking for a base with anAlpine feel from which to explore Snow-donia National Park, the bustling littlestone village of Betws-y-Coed (bet-us-ee-koyd)stands out as a natural option. Itboasts a postcard-perfect setting above

an inky river, engulfed in the verdantleafiness of the Gwydyr Forest and nearthe junction of three river valleys: theLlugwy, the Conwy and the Lledr.

The town has blossomed as Walesmost popular inland resort since Victor-ian days when a group of countrysidepainters founded an artistic community

to record the diversity of the landscape.The arrival of the railway in 1868 cem-ented its popularity and today Betws-y-Coed is as busy with families and coachparties as it is with walkers.

Activities are its stock-in-trade, how-ever, with outdoor-activity shops strungout along the A5 (known locally as theHolyhead Rd), which forms the mainthoroughfare. The Rivers Conwy andLlugwy are rich with salmon in autumnwhile water sports and skiing are best or-ganised through the nearby Plas y BreninNational Mountain Centre (p226). Forspecialist references for walkers, climbersand cyclists, call into Ultimate Outdoors(%710888; www.ultimateoutdoors.co.uk; Holyhead

Rd), an adventure shop with a huge rangeof equipment.


TOURIST OFFICES //National park infor-

mation centre(%710426; www.betws-y-coed

.co.uk; Royal Oak Stables;h9.30am-5.30pm Apr-Oct,

9.30am-4.30pm Nov-Mar) Stocks a comprehensive

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array of books and maps. The adjoining free exhibition

on Snowdonia National Park includes a virtual-reality

helicopter ride over Snowdon.

EXPLORING BETWS-Y-COED BRIDGES AND RIVERSIDE

WALKS // MANY RIVERS TO CROSS

One of the joys of Betws is wanderingalong its riverbanks and criss-crossingover its historic bridges. Behind the in-formation centre a pleasant path leadsaround the tongue of land framed by the

convergence of the Conwy and LlugwyRivers, alongside a golf course and backpast St Michaels Church.

Nearby, Sappers Bridgeis a whitesuspension footbridge (1930), leadingto a path through the fields up to theA470. If you turn right, the road leadsto Waterloo Bridge(1815). Knownlocally as iron bridge, it spans 32m andbears a large inscription celebrating itsconstruction in the year the battle wasfought.

At the other end of the village, the 15th-century stone Pont-y-Pair, the Bridge ofthe Cauldron, crosses a set of rapids onthe Llugwy. A riverside path leads to the

Miners Bridge, about a mile downstream,so called as this was the route miners tookon their way to work in nearby lead mines.This is a modern replacement of the oldestcrossing of the Llugwy.

ST MICHAELS CHURCH // CHILD

OF THE ORIGINAL BETWS

The name Betws is thought to be derivedfrom bead house, meaning a place ofprayer (y coed in the woods). Its likelythat 14th-century St Michaels Church(www.stmichaelsbyc.org.uk; Old Church Rd;h10am-

5pm Easter-Oct)stands on the site of thatearly sanctuary. In 1873 it was replacedas the parish church by the much largerSt Marys Church(Holyhead Rd)but its still

used on St Michaels Day (29 September)and for the occasional funeral. The mainitem of interest inside is a stone effigy of

WORTH A TRIP

Most of the slate used to roof 19th-century Britain came from Wales, and much of that

came from the mines of Blaenau Ffestiniog. However, only about 10% of mined slate is

usable, so for every ton that goes to the factory, nine tons are left as rubble. Despite beingin the very centre of Snowdonia National Park, the grey mountains of mine waste that sur-

round Blaenau (blay-nye) prevented it from being officially included in the park a slap

in the face for this close-knit but impoverished town in the days before Wales industrial

sites were recognised as part of its heritage.

Blaenaus main attraction, the Llechwedd Slate Caverns (%01766-830306; www.llech

wedd-slate-caverns.co.uk; either ride adult/child 9.45/7.15, both rides 15.20/11.60;hfrom 10am daily,

last tour 5.15pm Apr-Sep, 4.15pm Oct-Mar) offer a chance to descend into a real slate mine.

Of the two tours offered, the more evocative Deep Mine tour includes a descent onthe UKs steepest passenger railway and recreates the harsh working conditions of

the 19th-century miners be prepared to duck and scramble around dark tunnels. If

you cant manage a lot of steps, go for the Miners Tramway Tour, a ride through the

huge 1846 network of tunnels and caverns.

Today, although slate mining continues on a small scale, Blaenau has a mournful

feel to it, not helped by famously miserable weather. Its an interesting place to stop

but its unlikely youll be tempted to stay.

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Gruffydd ap Dafydd Goch, the grand-nephew of Llewelyn ap Gruffydd, the lastnative Prince of Wales.

CONWY VALLEY RAILWAY

MUSEUM // ONE FOR THE KIDS,

EVEN THE GROWN-UP ONES

If youre the sort whos fascinated bydioramas and model train sets, this tinymuseum(%710568; www.conwyrailwaymuseum.co.uk; adult/child 1.50/0.80;h10am-5pm)is foryou. In which case the model shop youhave to pass through in order to entermight pose an unfair temptation. The big

attraction for kids is the miniature steamtrain rides (the 1-mile round trip costs1.50) and theres a cafe in a full-sizedcarriage.


BISTRO BETWS-Y-COED

%710328; www.bistrobetws-y-coed.com; Holyhead

Rd; lunch 6-9, dinner 12-17;hWed-Sun, daily

summer

This cottage-style eaterys statement ofintent is modern and traditional Welsh.Expect the likes of locally made sausages,rarebit and haddock-and-chips bat-

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Wales 4 Snowdonia