WWB234 MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER ISSUE

—TED BAKER UNCOVEREDCEO Ray Kelvin grants rare insights—

—THE ITALIAN JOBElisa Cavaletti’s recipe for success—

—MONOCHROME MAGICDirectional fashion takes on aclassic trend —

—THE SHAPE OF THINGS TO COMEComprehensive guide to a/w 14—

JANUARY 2014—ISSUE 234

WOMENSWEARBUYER

Apt Collections Ltd · T 0207 580 3202

wwb234 Main Document 08/01/2014 12:47 Page 2




1ST FLOOR, SHELANA HOUSE, 31 EASTCASTLE STREETLONDON W1W 8DN TEL: 0207 636 5677

[email protected]

07WOMENSWEAR BUYER—JANUARY 2014

CONTENTS—

REGULARS

9EDITOR’S COMMENT

—10

NEWS—16

BACKSTAGEThe other side of womenswear

—20

TALKING POINT—92

RETAIL FORUMThe latest news from the industry

—95

ADVICEExperts answer your questions

—98

UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL With Sofia Strazzanti

—

FASHION

32STYLE FILE

—36

FASHION RADAR—45

AUTUMN/WINTER 2014WWB’s guide to the season

—46

NEW MODERNITYThe experts at Trendstop

interpret key catwalk trends forthe season

—48

COLLECTION NEWS —52

BRAND PREVIEW—68

CHESSBOARD THEORYThe key a/w 14 looks

from contemporary and youngfashion brands

—

FEATURES

25BOOSTING YOUR BUSINESS FROM WITHIN

Thierry Bale gives advice on increasingprofitability

—28Q&A

With Ted Baker’s CEO Ray Kelvin—40

CHIC & UNIQUEElisa Cavaletti’s founder Daniela Dallavalle shares

her design philosophy—86

COUNTDOWN TO SCOOP INTERNATIONALThe latest signings to this month’s show

—90

FIRST GLANCE AT MODAA sneak peek at next month’s show

—FRONT COVER:

JACKET SELECTED FEMME, BIB NECKLACESAM UBHI

—

Crea Concept UK Ltd34/35 Eastcastle Street

1st FloorLondon

W1W 8DWTel: 020 7 436 0631

Email: [email protected]

Autumn/Winter 2014



COMMENT—

AS I CAUGHT UP WITH A HOST OFINDEPENDENTS FOR THIS ISSUE, ITWAS GOOD TO HEAR THAT MANYOF YOU ARE FEELING A SENSE OFCAUTIOUS OPTIMISM ABOUT 2014. —

A new year always signifies a new beginning,but it’s fair to say that for most indies the lastfew years have started with a sense oftrepidation. So I was relieved, surprised to adegree even, to hear that many of you areentering 2014 with a positive – or shall we saydefiant – outlook, having had a reasonablygood Christmas trading period, and a healthystart to s/s 14, with early deliveries having gotoff to a strong start.

With the economy reportedly showingfirst tentative signs of recovery, many indieshave told me they can feel consumerconfidence returning, and have noticed thatmore people are willing to spend their cashagain. This of course is good news, but it’sunlikely that consumers will become frivolouswith their hard-earned cash. It is still up toindies to make sure that their product mix isdesirable, relevant and offers value for moneyand a point of difference from the high streetand other competition, and this is a task that isoften easier done in theory than executed inpractice. As the a/w 14 buying season gets intofull swing, shows such as Bread & Butter andScoop are kicking off the womenswearexhibition calendar this month, and our teamwill be out in force to see what brands have tooffer this season, and how you, the buyers, willbe translating this into your shops.

This issue once again offers a

comprehensive guide to a/w 14, giving anoverview of the key trends, the new launchesand the brands to watch for the season, andjudging by the wealth of press previews andcollection information that has landed on ourdesks, a/w 14 has some commercial looks andsaleable merchandise on offer, with a definitiveluxurious and upmarket direction at the core.

On that note, I wish you all aprosperous 2014 and a successful buyingseason. And don’t forget to say hello if youbump into myself or the team at any of theshows or to share your views by emailing meor tweeting @wwbmagazine.

Isabella Griffiths, editor

EditorIsabella [email protected] —ContributorsVictoria [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]—Sub editorAmanda [email protected]—Design & productionMichael [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]—Sales managerSam [email protected]—SubscriptionsCaroline [email protected]—Production directorGill [email protected]—Portfolio directorNick [email protected]—Marketing directorStephanie [email protected]—Managing directorColette [email protected]—Reprographics/printingImageData Group 01482 652323

—WWB is published 11 times per year byRAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall,Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 —Copyright © 2014 WWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of anywritten material or illustration in any formfor any purpose, other than short extracts forreview purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RASPublishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability forloss or damage to transparencies and any othermaterial submitted for publication.—

RAS Publishing is an ITE Group PLCcompany A Buyer Series Fashion BusinessPublication WWB is a fashion business publicationproduced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titlesinclude MWB and CWB.


NEWS—

CAUTIOUS OPTIMISMDOMINATES AMONG INDIES

Although most retailers feel confident about the start of s/s 14, indies will bekeeping a tight rein on budgets for a/w 14.

—

Independent retailers have entered 2014 witha sense of cautious optimism, following ahealthy Christmas trading season and anexpected good start to s/s 14 amid reports ofregained consumer confidence. However,despite a positive outlook, most will be erringon the side of caution when it comes to a/w 14 buying, with many placing an evenstronger emphasis on short-order labels to be more reactive to trends and theunpredictable weather.

In Dundee, Karen Charles, owner ofwomenswear indie Patricia Forbes, feelspositive about the New Year, but will bereducing her forward-order budget for a/w 14 to take some of the risk out of buying. “I’m feeling optimistic about theNew Year,” she says. “We’ve had a very goodstart to s/s 14, with the early deliveries havingsold well.

“I feel that customer confidence isimproving, particularly on special-occasionwear, so I’m hoping for a good year,” shecontinues. “Going into the next buyingseason, however, I will be reducing mybudget because, for us, a/w is such a shortseason – people only really buy a/w clothesfrom September to November, so I don’twant to buy too much stock. I’m upping mybudget for short order, because I can judgestock levels better that way.”

This is mirrored by Shelley Lambert,

manager at Bridge in Solihull. “We arefeeling optimistic about the business at themoment,” she says. “We’ve got some lovely s/s stock coming in, and customer confidencehas noticeably improved; people are willingto spend more money again. As we’re goinginto a/w 14 buying, we will be maintainingour budgets, however we will be more carefuland analytical about what we are buying, andwe’ll be stocking more coats than we did thisseason, and some more partywear, as bothcategories have done well for us this a/w.”

In Dartmouth, Sarah Hanafee,manager of Danielli, paints a similar picture.“I’m feeling positive about the New Year and going into s/s 14,” she says. “I think thefact that we had better weather last yearhelped us, and it will hopefully bringcustomers in again.

“There is an element of customersbeing more positive and comfortable withparting with their money,” she continues. “Ithink people are aware that things are startingto get better in terms of the economy.”

Entering into a/w 14 buying,however, Hanafee will be taking a measuredapproach in order to minimise the risks offorward ordering. “I’m going to be morecautious,” she says. “I’m not going to reducemy budget overall, but I will use more of itfor short ordering, because of the weather.With short ordering you can react more

“There is an element ofcustomers being morepositive andcomfortable withparting with theirmoney. I think peopleare aware that things are starting toget better in terms ofthe economy”

quickly to changes in the weather and, aswe’re based in a holiday resort, that’simportant. Separates in particular are on ourwish list as well as styles that will carrythrough from season to season.”

Covered


NEWS—

SME ONLINE RETAILERS TOCOMBINE CLICKS ANDBRICKS One in six UK SME (small andmedium enterprises) onlineretailers are planning to expandinto physical stores in 2014 asonline competition for salesgrows, according to researchconducted by Royal Mail. Theannual study of more than 400UK SME online retailers foundthat 16 per cent expected tolaunch into a physical store orseek space in an existing store toincrease its sales in 2014.

CAPSULE JOINS REEDEXHIBITIONSGlobal trade show Capsule hasbeen bought by event organiserReed Exhibitions. Capsule is held12 times a year, in Paris, Berlin,New York and Las Vegas, andspecialises in both thecontemporary men’s andwomenswear market. The show,which has been independentlyoperated by fashion consultancyBPMW since its inception in2007, will join Reed’s currentportfolio, which includes tradeshow Agenda. The transactionwas completed in late Decemberand terms were not disclosed.

NIKE AND ADIDAS TIGHTENSALES REGULATIONSAccording to reports, sportsweargiants Nike and Adidas have toldUK and Irish independentretailers that unless they meet theminimum sales requirement of£25,000 of apparel and footwearper year, the companies will stopsupplying their goods. Adidassent its independent retailers aletter last November thatstipulated the company wouldcancel smaller accounts if theywere insufficient and did not sellthe required quota of goods. Acompany spokesperson for Nike,meanwhile, stated that thecompany requires “its Europeanretail partners, no matter the sizeof such partners, to meet anannual minimum-order level inorder to support the necessaryoperational costs associated withdelivering the best productpresentation and consumerexperience at the point of sale.”

MANGO LAUNCHESPLUS-SIZE RANGE

Spanish high-street chain Mango isexpanding its product portfolio with thelaunch of Violeta by Mango, a young fashioncollection covering sizes 12-24. The rangewill launch for s/s 14 and will initiallycomprise 400 styles, with additional monthly top-ups.

An exclusive team of 40 experts in variousdisciplines has been gathered to createVioleta, with careful emphasis on technicalpatterns that translate from size to size andwith a high-quality focus.

The range will initially launch inMango’s seven largest markets, includingFrance, Germany, Italy, the Netherlands,Turkey, Russia and Spain, with the first storesto open in Mango’s home market.

The collection will also be available inonline stores in Europe, Turkey and Russia.Fifty retail outlets are forecast during thefirst half of the year, with another 50 to beadded in the second half. The target is to end2014 with 100 stores in premises measuringaround 350 sq m. —

BARBOUR COLLABORATES WITHCHRISTOPHER RAEBURN

Heritage outerwear brand Barbour isteaming up with British fashion designerChristopher Raeburn on a special-editionwomenswear collection for a/w 14, inspiredby Barbour’s military archives.

Raeburn is known for his re-appropriation ofmilitary fabrics incorporating detail, formand function, and in particular for iconicouterwear created from de-commissionedparachutes.

The Barbour x Raeburn range takesits inspiration from the story of the Ursulajacket in Barbour’s archives. Using a mix offabrics, Raeburn has reinterpreted Barbour’sfamous tartan alongside his own signaturesnow spot print, bringing together the iconicsymbols of both brands. The line, which goesinto selected stores from August 2014,features jackets, knitwear, shirts and shirtdresses with a small selection of accessories.

Sarah Lawrenson, Barbour’s head ofwomenswear, says, “We are delighted to beworking with Christopher Raeburn. Together,we have created a range that not onlycaptures the essence of Barbour’s militaryheritage, but also reflects the signaturehandwriting of both brands.”—


NEWS—

MID-MARKET RETAILERSSUFFER DECEMBERSALES DROPAccording to the latest datareleased by accountancy andbusiness advisory firm BDO,retail sales for December haven’tprovided relief for the Britishmiddle-market high street, suchas French Connection, Hobbs andGap. The firm’s High Street SalesTracker survey, which outlines theweekly like-for-like sales changesof 85 mid-tier chain retailers,showed that overall like-for-likesales for middle market retailersin December was down 2.2 percent on a year-on-year basis.

INTEL COMBINESTECHNOLOGY AND FASHIONTechnology giant Intel isexpanding into the fashion sectorwith a partnership with BarneysNew York, the Council of FashionDesigners of America andOpening Ceremony to produce“wearable tech”. Announced atthe International ConsumerElectronics Show in Las Vegaslast month, Intel explained it washoping that the partnership willaccelerate wearable deviceinnovation and increase dialoguebetween fashion and technologyindustries.

KEY NAMES BAN USE OFANGORAAsos, H&M, Next, Esprit andTopshop among others haveagreed to stop selling angoraproducts after the release of lastmonth’s graphic video of a PETAinvestigation into angora farmsin China. Asos confirmed it wasbanning and pulling from itsshelves any products made withangora with immediate effect.

HARVEY JACOBSON NAMED AS BACKER OF BARRATTSHarvey Jacobson, chairman ofthe Jacobson Group, has beennamed as one of the backers tohave acquired the intellectualproperty of troubled footwearretailer Barratts. Barratts enteredadministration in November,with financial advisory firmDuff & Phelps appointed aftermounting losses brought on bypoor trading conditions.

BESTSELLER POPS UP INSELFRIDGES

Danish fashion labels Vero Moda, Yas andNoisy May have made an appearance at high-end department store Selfridges, withthe launch of a new pop-up in the OxfordStreet store.

The brands, part of the Vero Moda stable,which belongs to the Bestseller Groupumbrella of labels, have taken up residencefor a minimum of two months, showcasingan edited selection of their key styles for s/s 14.

A spokesperson for the brands calledthe move “a huge step for Vero Moda Groupin the UK, proving a strong affirmation ofthe continued success for Vero Moda andexciting future for Yas and Noisy May.”

Young fashion label Vero Moda isamong the flagship brands of the stable,having been one of the first labels to belaunched within the group. Fashion-forwardjeans brand Noisy May was launched in s/s 13,while Yas was introduced to the market fora/w 13 as a contemporary label specialising inhigh-end design at affordable prices. —

BREAD & BUTTER WIDENS THE NET

German trade show Bread & Butter is toembark on a change in direction next year,when it plans to open up the show to consumers.

Starting with its July 2014 edition, the eventwill introduce two public days to its regulartrade show schedule, taking the duration ofthe exhibition to five days, on 8-12 July.

The first day will be reserved for press,top bloggers and invited VIP guests, while thesecond and third days will remain focused onprofessional buyers and trade visitors. Duringthe fourth and fifth days, however, the showwill be opened up to the public, whereexhibiting labels have the option ofpromoting their brands to the end consumer.

“The different groups of interest willcontinue to be invited in a focused andselective way,” says Karl-Heinz Müller,founder and managing director of Bread &Butter. “During the Professional Days, endconsumers will not be admitted to the fair.We can guarantee this, since Bread & Butteris equipped with an experienced, active guestmanagement. Of course, the brands will nolonger tag their collections with the purchaseprices, since these should naturally not beaccessible for the end consumer.” —

Noisy May

Yas


NEWS—

PERSONAL SHOPPERTECHNOLOGY ARRIVES IN UKTechnology designed to offerconsumers alternative shoppingoptions based on a simple imagewill soon be available in the UK,having been trialled successfullyin the US. FindSimilar software– developed in the UK byCortexica Vision Systems –mimics the way the brainprocesses an image to present arange of shopping possibilities toconsumers, based on a cameraphone snap of a catwalk image ora mannequin. Search resultsgenerated by the software arebased on a combination ofpattern, style, colour and overalldesign, and allow the consumer tofind a similar style that is moreaccessibly priced, or simply closerto their personal taste.

THE HUB LAUNCHES THEGREENHOUSEHong Kong trade show The HUBhas launched The Greenhouse, anincubator initiative for emergingdesign talent from across theglobe. The show’s second edition,taking place on 25-27 Februaryat Asia World Expo, will playhost to the new area, dedicated toaround 50 young and progressiveinternational labels. With its owndistinct design and ambiance,The Greenhouse is set to resemblea chic showroom in Paris orLondon. Participants includeHaizhen Wang, PPQ and Jean-Pierre Braganza. The HUB waslaunched last season to bringtogether premium fashion brandsfrom across the world with therising Asian markets.

MICHAEL SIMON NAMED NEWOLSEN MDMichael Simon has joinedVeldhovem Group as managingdirector of its newly acquiredOlsen brand. Simon’s career spansmore than 20 years in variousmanagement positions within the fashion and retail industry.His previous positions includemanaging director of sales andmarketing at Gelco, COO atS.Oliver and CEO at Gardeur.

PLATFORM LONDON OPENS ITS DOORS

A new trade show dedicated to upmarketfootwear brands is making its debut for a/w 14. Platform London, taking place on 9-10 February at The Westbury Gallery in the Westbury Hotel, Conduit St, Mayfair,has been launched by Gerard Levy, multi-brand agent and owner of footwearstore Spice London.

The show offers a hand-picked selection ofinternational shoe designers and brands.Confirmed exhibitors including Audley,Avril Gau, Beyond Skin, C.Doux, Camper,Chie Mihara, Coclico, J Shoes, Anaid Kupuri,Lalil, Lola Cruz, Megumi Ochi, Ras, TF Slackand Zinda, which will exhibit in anexclusive, clean and contemporary setting,with white tables and Louis Ghost chairs,Bourgie Lamp and plinths, as well as arefreshment area dressed with furniture byPhilippe Starck. For more information on theevent call 07790 384170 or visitwww.platformldn.co.uk. —

ASH OPENS NEW COVENTGARDEN FLAGSHIP STORE

Italian footwear brand Ash opened a newflagship store on King Street in CoventGarden at the end of last month. It is thefourth London store for the brand, which hasbranches on the King’s Road, Marylebone andKensington Church Street.

The Ash shop portrays an innovative storeconcept, successfully combiningcontemporary features with Ash’s signaturevintage design to create a chic ambience. Theinterior utilises original visual merchandisingtechniques to ensure an exclusive yet intimateshopping experience that reflects adistinctive and aspirational lifestyle.

Ash footwear and accessories fromthe mainline, sport and Mexican collectionswill be available in the Covent Garden storeas well as limited-edition products exclusiveto the flagship. —

LIPSY UNVEILS NEWSTORE DESIGN

Young fashion and partywear brand Lipsyhas launched a new store concept with theopening of its latest retail store at Watford’sIntu shopping mall last month.

The shop marks a new retail direction for thebrand, with accessible luxury the mainmotto, reflected by a simple marble and goldpalette and a play of different materials. NextPlc subsidiary Lipsy appointed high-profileinterior design firm Dalziel and Pow tocreate the new store environment, which willbecome the blueprint for a further roll-out.—



PROMOTION—

As the latest collection from Bitte Kai Rand makes its debut on theautumn catwalks, the story behind the clean lines and design twistsenters a whole new chapter for a brand in the midst of internationaldevelopment. Having brought its UK operation in-house with theappointment of new country manager Rachel Wiles, the Danishbrand is investing into its UK and Ireland markets for the new seasonas part of a wider global expansion plan across Europe and beyond.

Bringing the pure, timeless and clean design DNA directlyfrom the brand’s HQ at Copenhagen’s Old Harbour, Bitte Kai Randincreases its focus on the UK sector with a comprehensive approach toraising product awareness among its UK stockists. Comprising on-the-road support and the opening of a new London showroom,the label’s new point of contact will work closely with retailers toincrease sell-through and raise product awareness from designconcept to finished product.

Debuting with the label’s a/w 14 collection, the sleek andcontemporary showroom on West London’s Newman Street providesthe backdrop for the brand’s latest offer of outerwear and beyond,unveiling a directional collection with decomposition and formationas its headlines. Playing with symmetry and broken patterns, newshapes are created through the addition of layers, while classicalshapes are given new life through asymmetric cuts and the cool andelegant use of contrast ribbons. Sand-washed winter linen,transparent silk chiffon and fluid drapes lend an uncharacteristiclightness to an autumnal collection, mixing easily with a heavier,structured jersey for effortless winter styling.

The brand stays loyal to its hallmarks through its strongknitwear collection, which this season features a range of soft winterpastels alongside stronger shades of red, pink and green. Midnightblue, meanwhile, is introduced as a new shade, presented alongside alighter blue and nuances of grey, offering the possibility to mix withthe brand’s signature graphical blacks and whites.

It’s a collection that draws upon the heritage and diversity of abrand whose history spans three decades. Since its inception in 1981,Bitte Kai Rand has established itself as one of Denmark’s leadingfashion houses, making a name for itself as a label with a high degreeof functionality, a focus on quality, and an advanced edge cuttingthrough its timeless design. Six deliveries a year offer a constantstream of fresh ideas, incorporating current trends into the designconsistency of one of the industry’s most coveted labels.

Now reinventing its business model for the new season, theUK market is in the spotlight for a/w 14, and Bitte Kai Rand is set tofurther establish itself as the name to watch for a/w 14 and beyond.

INSIDEAND OUTFollowing the appointment of a new in-house country manager, Bitte Kai Rand heralds a new era for a/w 14 with the launch of its directional new outerwear collection. —

See the collection at Pure London, Premium Berlin, Gallery Copenhagen and Coterie New York and Vegas. Rachel Wiles, country manager for UK & Ireland, 07463 645670. Email: [email protected] located at 33 Newman Street, London W1T 1PY. www.bittekairand.com/uk

�

SMALL BUSINESS SATURDAYSUCCESS

The UK’s first Small Business Saturday, on 7December, has been hailed a success.According to a poll by American Express,just under half (48%) of UK consumerswere aware of the campaign, which aimedto encourage people to shop locally witha series of promotions and incentives. Of those consumers, over half (57%)

shopped at a local, independently ownedbusiness, with 43% of shoppers choosingto do so specifically because of Small

Business Saturday.

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD’SCOSTUMES FOR THE PRESTIGIOUSINTERMISSION BALLET AT THENEW YEAR’S DAY CONCERT OFTHE VIENNA PHILHARMONICORCHESTRA WERE INSPIRED BYTHE EXQUISITE SETTING FOR THEBALLET – THE BAROQUE PALAISLIECHTENSTEIN IN THE HEART OFVIENNA. THE COSTUMES, WHICHALSO REFERENCE PIECES FROMTHE DESIGNER’S OWN ARCHIVES,REFLECT THE OPULENTINTERIORS OF THE RECENTLYRENOVATED PALACE AND THEARISTOCRATIC LIFESTYLES OFTHE PAST.—


PEOPLE—

BACKSTAGE

The Natwest UK Fashion& Textile Awards, runby The UK Fashion &Textile Association, willreturn on 22 May atEast London’s TobaccoDock. The event celebratesthe success of the UK

fashion industry, as wellas the talent, brands andmanufacturers that make

it so inspiring andinfluential.

The Retail Trust’s Grand Scottish Ball, which tookplace in December at the Glasgow Hilton, raisedover £100,000 for the charity, which supports allthose who work in the retail sector.Despite the adverse weatherconditions that hadthreatened cancellation,over 300 people attendedthe event, which featureda dinner, live music and acharity tombola.—

FIRST POSITIONFOR VIVIENNEWESTWOOD

PARADISE FOUND IN NORTH LONDONIt was wintery outside, but Elite Swim turned The Paradise in London’s Kensal Green into an “actual”tropical paradise for the day for its recent 2014 collections press event, showcasing Aguaclara, Baku,Ginja, Hurley, Maria Bonita by PHAX and Elite Apparel’s WAXX, Cheapo and Uberluv. Guests weretreated to tiki cocktails and exotic fruit platters, while male dancers The Rollin Dices entertained withtheir acrobatic dance routine and the female models showed off the swimwear collections on the catwalk,to a soundtrack of chilled summer tunes.—

Grand total for Retail Trust

“

“The other side of womenswear

—

HAPPYBIRTHDAY

—Now Britain’s oldest person,113-year-old Ethel Langworked as a seamstress at

Double Two and Wm SugdensBarnsley shirt factory from

the age of 13 in 1913.—

© Suzi Ovens



PROMOTION—

or any womenswear retailerin search of the new namesand fresh new ideas that willtake their business forward in2014, next month’s edition of

Moda should be the most essential date onthis season’s calendar. In four weeks’ time theshow will be unveiling its most exciting line-up so far of brand new arrivals,alongside an unmissable programme ofcatwalk shows, expert seminars and industrydebates featuring some of the leading namesin UK independent retail.

You’ll find new names in every areaof the show this season, including the Modadebut of leading German label Brax,showing its British-inspired autumn/winter2014 collection alongside the likes of Atelier

F Gardeur, Bianca, Toni and Steilmann.Also showing for the first time is Dutchleather and outerwear brand Rino & Pelle,as well as fellow Dutch outerwear collectionBlaest and French label Coline, whosecollection mixes easy and sometimes sporty shapes with rich colours and ethnic-inspired prints.

Moda White, the area of the showdedicated to contemporary womenswear, thisseason features its biggest line-up ofinternational brands so far, with establishednames such as James Lakeland, ElisaCavaletti, Sahara and Madonow joined bya raft of new names. Outerwear specialistDamo, leading French knitwear and topslabel Leo Guy and casual and contemporarybrand Cristyn & Co are all new at Moda

MORE NEW NAMESMORE NEW IDEASONLY AT MODAWITH THE SHOW NOW JUST FOUR WEEKS AWAY, MODA REVEALS MOREBRAND NEW NAMES AND THE MOST ESSENTIAL EVENTS PROGRAMMESO FAR.—

White this season, along with new collectionsfrom independent womenswear favouritesEden Rock, Northland and Suzy D.

Moda’s unbeatable evening andoccasionwear offer has now been broughttogether in brand new area Moda Noir,where leading names such as John Charles,Mascara, Mon Cheri and Dynastywill alsobe joined by a host of collections new toModa. Look out for new eveningwear arrivals G Kat and Anoola, as well as occasionwearlabel Linea Raffaelli, which will beshowcasing its autumn/winter range atModa for the first time in a number of years.

Elisa CavalettiJamesLakelandRino & Pelle Damo

GET YOUR STORE FIT FOR THEFUTURE

With�more�than�25�presentations�taking�placeacross�the�duration�of�the�show,�Moda’sseminar�and�debate�programme�is�yourchance�to�hear�expert�advice�on�the�latestinnovations�in�retail,�and�get�the�inside�storyon�some�of�the�biggest�successes�inindependent�fashion.

With�social�media�now�one�of�retail’shottest�marketing�tools,�find�out�from�SEOand�e-commerce�solutions�expert�Jonny�Rosshow�to�turn�tweets�and�likes�into�customersand�cash�with�a�look�at�the�best�way�to�getthe�most�out�of�Twitter,�Facebook,�Instagram,Pinterest�and�the�ever-growing�number�ofnew�social�media�platforms.�Social�media�willalso�be�one�of�the�topics�looked�at�by�SimonShepherd,�director�of�strategic�marketingnetwork�NXO,�whose�presentation�SmarterMarketing�will�be�a�must�see�for�any�retailerwith�great�ideas�but�finite�resources.

Other�highlights�include�DavidAbbott,�director�of�Insight�Best�Practice,�whowill�take�an�equally�practical�but�no�lessinspirational�approach�to�e�commerce�with�hisseminar,�Tips�for�Successful�E-tailing.�If�thatsounds�simple�it’s�because�these�are�ideasthat�every�retailer�selling�online�canimplement�and�profit�from,�as�well�as�being�aninspirational�introduction�for�anyone�about�totake�their�first�online�steps.�Offering�anexpert�view�on�the�essential�topic�of�visualmerchandising,�meanwhile,�will�be�Eve�Reid,director�and�founder�of�MetamorphosisGroup,�whose�work�with�retailers�of�all�sizeshas�included�the�development�of�a�range�ofinnovative�visual�merchandising�solutions.

If�you’re�visiting�the�show�on�Monday,don’t�miss�this�season’s�Big�Industry�Debate,taking�place�on�the�Hall�17�stage�at�10.45am.Hear�the�insider’s�view�on�some�of�the�keytopics�in�retail�from�a�retail�panel�includingHilary�Haresign�of�Snooty�Frox�in�Harrogate,Claire�Wright�of�Gemini�in�Stratford-Upon-Avonand�Alexandra�Boardman�of�Alexandra’s�inKeswick.�Find�the�full�seminar�schedule�atwww.moda-uk.co.uk�and�on�the�Moda�app.

PROMOTION—

For information on all the latest signings, fulldetails of the catwalk and seminarprogrammes and to register for your freeticket visit moda-uk.co.uk.

MODA AT YOURFINGERTIPS

This�season’s�Moda�appis�available�to�download,delivering�everythingyou�need�to�know�aboutthe�UK’s�largest�tradefashion�exhibitiondirectly�into�the�palm�ofyour�hand.�Regularlyupdated�between�nowand�the�show,�the�appfeatures�full�exhibitorlistings,�plans�of�everysector�of�the�show,details�and�times�for�all�seminars�and�events,and�will�show�you�the�fastest�route�betweenthe�brands�you�want�to�see�to�ensure�you�get�the�most�out�of�your�time�of�the�show.Simply�visit�the�app�store�and�search�forModa�Events.

MODA ONLINE

As�well�as�the�complete�guide�to�all�Modashows,�the�Moda�website�– moda-uk.co.uk�–is�also�the�place�to�find�the�latest�news�fromexhibitors,�find�out�more�about�both�newarrivals�and�established�brands�and�arrangeappointments�at�the�show.�By�registering�freeof�charge�to�use�the�site’s�Community�zone,you’ll�be�able�to�arrange�appointments�online,request�additional�information�from�suppliersahead�of�the�show,�and�network�with�brandsand�other�retailers�365�days�a�year.�Simplyhead�to�the�site�and�click�Community.

Alice Hannah


Adorned, the area of Moda Accessoriesdedicated to new and niche names, also growsin size this season, featuring new brandsincluding jewellery label Miss Milly andvintage-inspired jewellery and accessoriesbrand Lovett & Co. They’ll be joining labelssuch as Eliza Gracious, returning with itsdirectional collection of necklaces andbracelets, and handbag label Ahn & Art,introducing quirky new apple and dachshunddesigns. Elsewhere at Moda Accessories, lookout for a debut appearance for the handbagand footwear collection from ZandraRhodes, along with knitted accessories fromAlice Hannah, vibrant socks from Solmateand versatile jewellery from MelanO.

Dr Martensheads up the list of newarrivals at Moda Footwear, with the iconicBritish brand bringing its full women’s,men’s and kids’ collections to the show forthe first time. The UK’s largest footwearexhibition will also be hosting a strongcontingent of Spanish footwear labels thisseason, including Hispanitas, Marian, LuisGonzalo and 24 Hrs, alongside women’sfootwear collections from brands such asLotus,Sorel, Joules, Butterfly Twists,Moda in Pelle, Lisa Kay and Fly London.

LotusLotus

d


OPINION—

MAKE YOURMERCHANDISE AS UNIQUEAS YOUR STOREFashion by its very definition is a constantly changing machine. Mostof the time change is for the good but, sometimes, when the economy ishard and the tills are quiet, it can be both challenging and scary.

This has been borne out by the many conversations I have hadrecently with anxious retailers. Many are generally concerned withour great nation’s spending habits, with the ever-strong high streetand of course the growing online trade. What we have to rememberis that independents still have enormous strengths that the highstreet and online businesses could only wish for. This is a time toreflect, play to those strengths and instead of being nervous, look atthe true facts and embrace the changes, empowering yourself withthe knowledge that the strength of fashion independentsthroughout the UK still reigns supreme.

Let’s look at the true breakdown of fashion online sales. Thebiggest sector is the younger high fashion market and designerlabels. This stands to reason – this young generation grew up withthe Internet and not all of them live near the big cities that housethese en vogue or prestigious labels. Fuelled by unrealistic images infashion magazines, it’s not surprising that 38 per cent of these onlinesales result in returns. This statistic is often overlooked.

I think it is also fair to point out that the majority of the UK’sfashion independents would not be affected by this level of trading,and whilst we all listen to horror stories of the Internet wiping outother sectors, this is clearly not the case with the fashion independent.Thankfully the UK is still known as a nation of shopkeepers, and weare fortunate to be in a business where the mere touch and feel of agarment can seduce even the most hardened spend-thrift.

Emotion aside, it is still business and looking at your productoffer every season should be a given. Take time to look at new labelsor maybe revisit labels not seen in a while. Sadly, I walk intogorgeous independents to be faced with the same labels andsometimes the same colour capsule as their neighbour in the nexttown. We complain about chain stores with the same merchandiserolled out across the UK, so seize this point of difference, as surelythis is where you can really score points. There are certainly enoughlabels out there to make your merchandise as unique as your store,your personalised service and fantastic staff, so wouldn’t it be greatif everyone could mix it up just a bit and step outside of theircomfort zone? The UK is still one of the strongest independentfashion markets in Europe. Let’s celebrate that fact and strive harderto make it bigger, stronger and more diverse than ever before.

ANOTHER STABIN THE BACK FROMBRUSSELSI receive numerous emails daily from manufacturers around theglobe wanting to produce jeans for my company. My answer isalways the same – I am extremely proud of the fact that wemanufacture Wizard Jeans in the UK.

When we started the company in late 2009, we initially made ourjeans in China but after a huge amount of research and no help fromthe Department of Trade and Industry, we found a company in theUK, which was a bit like finding the proverbial needle in a haystack.

So, yesterday, plop into my ever full Inbox came an emailfrom Pakistan asking if they could supply me with jeans. The addedbonus of working with them, they explained, was that The EuropeanParliament has approved GSP status to Pakistan’s manufacturersand exporters to 27 European countries until 2017 – in short “dutyfree” into our already struggling marketplace. I was shocked andamazed that our politicians have yet again scored an own goal.

How can Brussels be allowed to do this to our seriouslyfragile and struggling manufacturing industry? Our manufacturerstruggles – we all struggle in the UK. The big stores on the highstreet do not support British manufacturing in the way they shouldbecause they are keener to increase their margins without anyconsideration of what they are doing to the manufacturers in theirown country. They continue to give unscrupulous manufacturersoverseas the opportunity to thrive, with their workforce eitherunder-age or working in conditions that should be condemned inmore ways than one. How can the government, hand on heart, saythey are supporting British manufacturing?

We all know how hard it is out there, whether you are inbusiness or in employment – but keeping a few fundamentalprinciples in tack is surely important too. Our high streets are deadand no doubt will never be the same again – but the entrepreneurialBritish spirit and “back against the wall” determination will find away through, with different types of businesses springing up.

At Wizard Jeans, we are lucky that our business model ismostly based on the Internet, because our high-street sales havedropped by over half while the Internet has thrived. We have alsodecided to target overseas markets and have recently signed anexclusive distribution deal for Australia and New Zealand, wherethey would not have taken our jeans if they had not been Made inBritain – they see that as a huge selling point.

Isn’t it sad that our government and high-street departmentstores don’t feel the same?

Sally Allen-Gerard, founder and director, Wizard Jeans Diane Sykes, sales manager, Hauber UK

TALKING POINTKey industry players give their views on the issues that affect womenswear.

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1 9 - 2 1 J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 4SCOOP- INTERNAT IONAL .COM

L O N D O N

FRANK SAUL (FASHIONS) LTD. FRANK SAUL HOUSE, STEELE ROAD, PARK ROYAL, LONDON NW10 7AR

TEL . + 44 (0) 208 965 1522 FAX. + 44 (0) 208 965 1518 E.MAIL. [email protected] WEB. www.franksaul.com

Copyright © 2012 - 2015 Frank Saul Fashions and/ or its suppliers. All rights reserved © Crown copyright 2011. All rights reserved

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REPORT—

THE ONLY WAY IS UP:BOOSTINGYOUR BUSINESSFROM WITHIN Thierry Bayle, founder of business consultancy Global Fashion Management, looks at ways thatcan make a huge difference to the profitability of a fashion retail business. —

You’re desperately trying tomove a/w 13 stock beforethe s/s 14 goods arrive.You’re probably alsoworking on somemarketing ideas to boostsales once the new stock ison the floor. Life on theshop floor is busy, but let’stake a second and discover

a few tips that will continue to work long afterthe fresh goods have started to look tired.

Let’s start with the vision and strategyfor your business. Is your master plan in yourhead or have you also committed it to paper? Itneeds to be written down so you can refer to itat frequent intervals and also update or adapt itas necessary. This will keep you on track,remind you why you adopted this approachand keep your eyes on the prize. Then there’sthe question of focus. This is where you shareyour vision and strategy with your team, sothat you are all singing from the same songsheet. Make sure that the sales team know andunderstand your vision and strategy for thebusiness. Why? Because if they don’tunderstand what you are trying to do or why,how can you expect them to help you? It’simportant to revisit the objectives regularly, tocheck that you and your team are meetingthem. Reminding them why you are followinga particular path will help to focus them andhelp them to own their job, not just rent it. The result should be significantly moreengaged and motivated staff and, hopefully,better profits.

You’re sceptical? Recently, I workedwith a menswear shop where the owner washaving problems motivating his sales team. Italked to the sales staff, which told me, “It’shim and us – he sits in the office out the backwith his computer and we don’t know what’sgoing on. We don’t even know if we’ll havejobs this time next week.” I explained this tothe owner and we organised a meeting wherehe talked the sales team through his strategyand explained to them what he was trying todo. He was also asked to work on it weeklywith the team. Eureka! After two months,things had improved enormously. Staffmotivation had changed dramatically and totalsales per staff and conversion rates hadincreased – his sales figures were starting tolook healthier. See what I mean?

Having established vision and strategy,it’s important to make sure you have processesin place so the team – and you – knowprecisely, according to your minimum

standards and values, how to handle an angrycustomer, collect customer data such as mobile,email, first name, date of birth and so on. Aprocess is also required to handle faulty or lategoods coming from the brands you are buying.Make sure all the tasks that are important inthe business have a clear process.

Staff training and motivation play akey role in the success of a retail business. Inany job, people need to know exactly what isexpected of them. As well as telling them, itneeds to be written down as a job description(or to-do list) in order to provide clearguidelines on what they should be doing andhow you want them to do it.

On the training front, don’t assumeanything. What may be second nature to youmay simply not occur to your staff. Check thateveryone has the right tools and skills for thejob with regular training sessions. Focus onone topic at a time and keep these sessions low-key to avoid alienating more experiencedmembers of the team. Make sure they arefollowed up with some careful observation ofthe training in action – praise them when theyperform well; comment and correctconstructively where necessary. Training needsto be regular in order to be effective, with themessages repeated at regular intervals.

Ask your team for their input togenerate sales ideas – they know yourcustomers as well as you do and will appreciatebeing consulted. It pays to accept that youmight not always be right. One retailer I knowstocks a particular dress brand. It’s increasinglyhard to sell, but he doesn’t want to change it –he claims his clients still want the brand. Hisstaff disagree and thinks he should update thedress offering. Sometimes you need to listen toyour team, be open to new ideas and lookclosely at how your customer base is evolving.

Scary as it may sound, measuringproductivity, yours and that of your staff, canhelp to boost profitability. In order to measuresales productivity over time, you need to beable to set markers so that you can trackprogress. Without these, you can’t accuratelysee how it develops. However, before you start designing charts and spreadsheets, it’sworth bearing these points in mind – themembers of staff need to know exactly

what their job entails and what they should be doing – does everyone have a jobdescription? They need to know how to dotheir job – have you trained them? They needto know why they are doing it – have youshared your vision and values for the businesswith them?

When we talk about productivity in aretail environment, we mean the effectivenessof the sales staff. The bottom line here is didthey sell, and how much? This needs to bebroken down by factors such as: • How many customers came into the shop? • How many sales were achieved (the

conversion rate)? • The average value per transaction –

due to part-time employees, calculate it per hour worked

• The average number of units per transaction

One of our clients had three womenswearboutiques. While his sales in units wereimpressive, he wanted to boost sales in Pounds.He brought in new brands to get his customersto trade up, but little changed for the first halfof the new season. It turned out that the salesteam knew very little about the new stock anddidn’t feel confident recommending it,although they certainly weren’t steeringcustomers away from it. We suggested that hetook the time to work on product knowledgeand styling issues with the team. At the samepoint the following season, the new brandswere selling well and the monthly sales hadincreased in value by 18 per cent.

Finally, here are a few words aboutimplementing changes (which is, broadly,what I’ve been talking about). When new ideasand plans are put in place, they will only workif they are followed through.

It only makes sense to change the wayyou work if it improves things. Allow formistakes – this is how you learn, just don’tmake too many. Look back over your history –examine incidents that may have resulted inyour staff being reluctant to embrace changenow. Set plans for change within the contextof a long-term goal. The key thing withchange is follow-through. It’s important tostay focused and maintain the momentum.

Global Fashion Management provides UK and continental European retailers a guaranteed successroute to better managing their two greatest assets – stock and people. It has worked closely withretailers for 20 years, and has over 400 clients in Europe and the US.Call +44 (0) 20 8576 6233, email [email protected],visit www.globalfashionmanagement.com or Tweet @RetailFashion

SHOWING AT PURE LONDON FEBRUARY 2014. [email protected] T: 020 7486 8916 FRAAS.COM

PLEASE TOUCH IT’S CASHMERE.

SCARVES ARE OUR WORLD.




INTERVIEW—

Q&A

—Ray Kelvin, Ted Baker’s enigma of a CEO, and a CBE no less, has character inabundance, but rarely seems to talk to the press and still hides his face becausehe says, “It’s sexier to conceal than to reveal.” But, for the launch of a short filmshowcasing the new men’s and women’s s/s 14 collections, he decided to takecentre stage and field questions about the brand he’s built for the last 25 years.

Tom Bottomley pulled up a chair.—

Ray Kelvin


INTERVIEW—

Tom Bottomley: Did you ever envisagewhen you started out that you’d have aglobal fashion brand?Ray Kelvin: No, I can’t believe it. In myprevious life, I was faceless supplier to thehigh street with womenswear. I felt I had todevelop a brand to get on, because I was sofrustrated as a designer. I was asked to make aladies’ blouse, but “to do something a little bitdifferent”, so I made one with three sleeves.

TB: You initially started out just with TedBaker men’s shirts, right?RK: Yes, I started out with a small shop inGlasgow making and selling men’s shirts,and slowly building a wholesale network –literally one at a time. Ian Draper came onboard from day one as our sales agent andhe’s still with us. As a company, we nowemploy something like 3,500 people aroundthe world.

TB: People began talking about thebrand when you started selling inHarrods, how did that come about?RK: It was 1989, a year after starting up, and Igot a call from a Harrods buyer saying, “I’mFiona Staniland from Harrods – we’ve seenyour shirts in Glasgow and we love them.” Iput the phone down because I thought it wassomeone messing me around. She phonedback and said, “We’ve seen your shirts andwe’d like to do some business with you.” Andthat was it. I started with a small concessionin Way In. Everything was small to beginwith. I didn’t have big money.

TB: Was there a significant time whereyou really established Ted Baker?RK: In the late 80s and early 90s we had a bighit with a shirt. I found a fabric made out ofviscose and rayon and turned it into a lot ofmoney. I put my own mark on the fabric andcalled it Ted Knows It. It was worn byclubbers and ravers. I saw an opportunity andwe did plains, prints, checks – everything inthat fabric. We originally ordered 500 metresof fabric, which went to three millionmetres. That’s a lot of shirts. At the time,people were standing outside our shop inCovent Garden like there was a famine.

TB: Things are a bit different now –when did you float the business?RK: It was 17 years ago – in 1997. Thecompany was valued at £58m. We made £4mprofit on £14m turnover. The company todayis valued at £950m, with a £350m turnover.We’re forecast to make £40m profit this year.

TB: Has this growth come from yourexpansion overseas?RK: Well, a good 35 per cent of our turnoveron retail is now overseas. The Middle Eastand Asia are good for us, and we’ve juststarted going into department stores acrossEurope – the main players in Germany,Spain and so on – and it’s going very well.

philosophy, to produce things that arefantastic quality. Nobody else will have ourprints because we supply the suppliers withwhat we want. That goes for our licensedproduct, too, such as watches, shoes, eyewearand luggage – which isn’t out just yet.Everything is designed in-house.

TB: Are any more store openingsimminent?RK: In a way, we’re going full circle becausewe’re launching a new flagship in Glasgowthis spring. We have a store in Princes Square,but we’re moving to a bigger shop onBuchanan Street. It’s a better position andthere’s greater footfall. They love us inGlasgow, and we love them.

TB: You also now have nine barber shops,when did that start to happen?RK: It has been unbelievable. We haveTurkish partners, and have people queuingup day and night to be served. We firstlaunched it three years ago in Holborn. Thereare now eight standalone shops, and one in aTed Baker store. They’re called Ted’sGrooming Room, and we’re opening anotherone in Covent Garden imminently. We’realso selling grooming products – that Idesigned – to Boots. It’s going to be massive.We’re going to take on Wilkinson andGillette for grooming products. Fragrancesare also big time. Our business is verywidespread, and that all comes under licensedincome. We’re a big business, but we like to dothings vertically. We do everything in-houseas much as we possibly can, and we areclaustrophobic in our management style.

TB: Do you go round to your shopsyourself?RK: I still work in them. I was in our CoventGarden shop on Saturday. I sell women’s andmenswear. What sort of reaction do I getfrom customers? Well, I hug them, and theyhug me, call me Ted and buy things. Theysay, “Can I take you out at the weekend?”And I say, “Only if I pay for myself!” I don’ttell them my name’s Ray, because they wantto know that there is a Ted Baker. When Istarted out I used a different name in case Iwent bankrupt.

TB: Do you still come up with the quirkywindows?RK: I used to, and still do, but I don’t come upwith them all because I’ve got a team and Ican’t do everything. I came up with the“cabinet re-shuffle” one, where there was acabinet in the window with all the clothesshuffling inside. Funny that I’m seeing theChancellor of the Exchequer, GeorgeOsborne, tonight. He’s invited people inbusiness to go and talk to him because he hasthings he wants to share with us. I don’t mindhim picking my brains either. After all, I’m aCBE, a Commander of the British Empire –I’ve got to give something back!

TB: Is the UK still your strongestmarket? RK: Yes it is. In terms of our retail itrepresents 65 per cent of our business. Butwholesale business represents 30 per cent ofour overall business.

TB: When you open stores, does it affectbusiness with independents you maysupply in the same towns?RK: It shouldn’t. In fact, I think it benefitsthem. When we have concessions indepartment stores, quite often people mightsee us there but then go to the independentinstead because I just think they like thepersonal service. Often, they have differentproduct, too. I love independents. I was oncean independent menswear retailer, or at leastit was a family business where I worked onSaturdays and during school holidays. I alsosometimes worked on markets such asEnfield and Hounslow selling women’sseparates. My father had a small factorymaking women’s blouses. Before that, mygrandfather had a menswear shop called B Factor in Edmonton, and my mother wasborn upstairs. My grandmother was serving acustomer for a suit when she went intolabour, and she wouldn’t leave the customer!My uncle ended up taking over the business,and he also had a shop called Cheers inEnfield. When I worked there we sold brandssuch as Leroy, After Six, Levi’s, Falmer,Brutus, Honorbilt and Farah. It was the late60s and the 70s. I still think about those daysevery day of the week. I loved it. We used toget all the Spurs and Arsenal footballerscoming in, as well as local gangsters.Customers included players such as JohnRadford, Ray Kennedy, Mike England andSteve Perryman. I still see Steve now.

TB: You produce all your own fabrics, isthat an important factor to mark yourproduct out from the crowd?RK: The fabrics have always been the best,and we’ve always designed our own. I thinkthat does mark us out. It’s also great quality.For the price it’s unbelievable. Twice theproduct at half the price. We even have hand-embroidered dresses that are £2,000but, from a high-end design house, it wouldbe more like £6,000. That’s always been my

“THE FABRICS HAVEALWAYS BEEN THE BEST,AND WE’VE ALWAYSDESIGNED OUR OWN. ITHINK THAT DOES MARKUS OUT. IT’S ALSOGREAT QUALITY. FORTHE PRICE IT’SUNBELIEVABLE”


| Moda, 16th – 18th February – stand number U10A

FASHION—

�

PARKA LOVEOuterwear specialist Parka Londonhas launched its s/s 14 collection,which once again puts the classicparka on a pedestal and brings outthe beauty of this design classic.The brand’s garments are classicyet modern and focus on thetimeless qualities of the parka. The collection features vivid

brights such as reds and yellow,while detachable hoods, luxelinings, secret drawstrings anddistinctive silhouettes alsocharacterise the range.

—

Newly launchedBang! swimwear isan edgy and ultra-sexy range. The debut collectionchannels the twofounders’ Caribbeanroots, as well as beingheavily influenced byrock music, withcelebrity fans alreadyincluding Rihanna. —

STYLE FILEThe hottest brands not to miss this month

—

�

TIMELESS BAGSIlex London’s latest collection

continues with its signature style –luxurious and timeless chic thatcombines functionality. The brandfocuses on best quality leathers, finecraftsmanship and attention todetail, with this season’s range fullof elegant holdalls, clutches andhandbags that will take the wearer

from day to evening. —

—Tropical sunriseThe s/s 14 collection from swimwear label We AreHandsome has been named Tropic of Babylon andcontinues the brand’s popular swimwear cuts,including the scoop one-piece, the panel one-piecesand the Teeny Bikini. The brand’s celebrityfollowing keeps growing, with Beyonce wearingone of its styles in her recent video, Pretty Hurts. —

�

FLOWER POWERLanguage of Flowers is a Britishluxury T-shirt brand that

combines style and quality with aromantic twist. Each style featureshand-drawn illustrations in anarray of colours, with the debutoffering from the brand havingalready generated interest fromfashionistas and celebs thanks to its relaxed and casual chic.

—

LF Markey makes luxuryworkwear with an emphasison silk workshirts, but nowalso includes boilersuits,work trousers and a wholeline of printed pieces. Thebrand was launched byAustralian-born and London-based Louise Markey,who consulted for luxury labelsbefore going it alone.—

STYLE FLASH—

Faux fur accessories brandHelen Moore has launched anew website especially fortrade customers. The sitefeatures all product ranges,videos of fabrics and an online order section.

—

STYLE FLASH—

Launching to the UK thisseason, Hickies is a patented,ground-breaking lacing

system that replaces shoelacesand turns a shoe into a slip-on.Hickies fit a wide range ofshoes and comfort levels.

—


Preview the sensational new AW14 collection at the following shows:

Pure, 9th -11th February � stand number R409 | Moda, 16th � 18th February � stand number U10Also see styles from our in-stock SS14 collection.


FASHION—

FASHION RADARThe hottest brands to look out for right now

—

CUIR ROYALLaunching into the UK for a/w 14, German labelCuir Royal arrives at the premium end of the sector with its range of leather designs.

Established: 2011

Signature style: Leather garments made in Germany incontemporary yet wearable silhouettes.

“Here I am, this is me” is the philosophy behind Cuir Royal.Presenting a collection of designs in leather, ranging fromeveryday basics to extravagant models for the more daringconsumer, the brand targets the premium womenswear customerwith its collection of jackets, dresses, tops, trousers and skirts.

Cuir Royal debuts in the UK with a contemporary linefeaturing futuristic design details such as emphasised shoulders.Printed and uni leathers are key, while the palette is dominatedwith shades of black, silver and turquoise.

Designed and founded by German fashion graduate AnjaHerznach, the label hails from the historic city of Trier and iscommitted to German manufacture. This season will see the brandunveil a premium collection that wholesales from £222 to £587. —

Established: 2012

Signature style: Contemporary knitwear sourced in Italy andScotland and manufactured in Britain.

Inspired by the crispness and aesthetics of tennis culture, the thirdcollection by Blake LDN references sports-luxe styling through itsfine cotton and angora tanks and sweaters. Complemented by asoft summer palette of pale blue, peach and soft yellow, the latestpieces stay true to the brand’s roots of combining contemporaryknitwear styling with the high quality of carefully selected yarns.

Focusing on sound sourcing and manufacturing, the Blake LDN collection is produced in the UK from merino wool,angora and Loro Piana cashmere sourced from Italy and Scotland.The collection is designed and founded by Central St Martinsgraduate Alice Ashby, who has previously designed for New Yorklabel Rag & Bone and luxury knitwear brand the North Circular.

The spring collection builds upon the success of the label’scurrent a/w 13 range, which focuses on the traditional knitsassociated with ski culture such as beanie hats and chunkyturtleneck sweaters. —

BLAKE LDNCurrently in its second season, knitwear label Blake LDN isproduced in the UK and offers a more socially responsiblealternative to the luxury consumer.


FRANK SAUL (FASHIONS) LTD. FRANK SAUL HOUSE, STEELE ROAD, PARK ROYAL, LONDON NW10 7AR

TEL . + 44 (0) 208 965 1522 FAX. + 44 (0) 208 965 1518 E.MAIL. [email protected] WEB. www.mascaracollection.com

Copyright © 2012 - 2015 Frank Saul Fashions and/ or its suppliers. All rights reserved © Crown copyright 2011. All rights reserved

PureStand J 88

Moda, NECStand 140

LBDStand L 2


PROFILE—

hen you ask buyers what they are mainly lookingfor in a new label, nine times out of ten theanswer is the elusive “something different”,“something with a twist” and “something

exciting”. But only very few brands live up to these criteria and have atruly individual handwriting. Italian label Elisa Cavaletti, however, isone of these labels, with a look that is hard to categorise in theconventional way and a style that is contemporary but distinctivewhile timeless and exclusive. The label has become known for anembellished, heavily detailed head-to-toe look, with layering and askilful mix of materials and dyeing techniques that appeal to a widerange of age groups and markets.

The brand was launched in 1989 by designer and artistDaniela Dallavalle and her husband Giuliano Cavaletti – and namedafter their daughter Elisa –with them both still at the helm of thefamily business, which occupies new 6,000 sq m headquarters inCarpi, Italy. “I created Elisa Cavaletti at the end of the 80s, whenfashion still felt the effect of its rejection by the punk subculture andbecame less personal. I went completely against the flow. I presented

myself in a brand new way, giving Elisa Cavaletti its very own stamp,which explained my story and my life philosophy,” recalls Dallavalle,who says about herself that she is the product “of two cultures”, witha Northern European mother and an Italian father, both of whichinfluence her style and, ultimately, Elisa Cavaletti’s signature.

But more so than anything else, Dallavalle’s heart beats for hernative Italy and, despite many international influences, she sees thebrand as an Italian collection. “I created the looks for Elisa byimagining my daughter when she’s grown up – free, independent,loving life and open to friendship with all kinds of people becauseshe’s interested in what’s inside them and not what they look like,”says Dallavalle, who comes across as a sensitive, philosophical ladywho is led first and foremost by intuition rather than dominated byexternal trends or movements. “I like to observe and collectexperiences and dream, then write down everything that inspires mein one of the notebooks I always carry with me,” she says. “I have somany, scattered everywhere – in my bag, on my nightstand and onmy desk. Everything starts there. When it’s time to create a newcollection, I flip through those notes and relive the experiences,

W

CHIC &UNIQUEItalian label Elisa Cavaletti has been in theUK since 2010 and has gone from strengthto strength each season with its individualand yet highly wearable look. WWB caughtup with the brand’s founder, DanielaDallavalle, to find out what makes thedesigner and the label tick.—


PROFILE—

total look –with handmade jewellery and the many accessories andfootwear. Elisa Cavaletti is a genuinely 100 per cent Made in Italyproduct, and that also forms part of the appeal.”

Redfern would like to expand the account base, and has hereye on around 100 high-quality accounts, prioritising areas wherethere is currently no representation. It’s clearly about qualitydistribution than quantity, with Redfern careful about findingsuitable stockists that can grow with the label. “Elisa Cavaletti has aunique look, so it sits happily alongside a variety of quality brands,”she says. “Our primary requisite is to have representation in goodindependent retailers that carry nice brands, and we make ourdecisions based around this primarily.”

For Dallavalle, Elisa Cavaletti may be the flagship brand of theGreda-Daniela Dallavalle-Arte Pura Group, Elisa Cavaletti’s parentcompany, and the one she is clearly extremely passionate about, butshe has a multitude of other projects on the go, too, which she ishoping to expand internationally with equal success to the main label.Firstly, there is Riccardo Cavaletti, the company’s recently created lineof menswear and accessories, translating the Elisa Cavalettiphilosophy into a male context. Then, there’s Arte Pura, a homewareline featuring everything from tablecloths and napkins to bed covers,pillow cases, towels and candles. Dress Your Space, meanwhile, is afurnishing line, with each piece delivered pre-assembled and oncastors, encouraging them to be moved and rearranged as suited, withthe designs made to take centre-stage in the middle of each room asopposed to against walls. Finally, there’s Artistic Element, adelicatessen range of wines, balsamic vinegars, oils and grappareflecting Italian culture.

Undeniably, this is the pursuit of a true lifestyle offering thatdemonstrates the ambitious agenda of the designer, and ultimatelygoes full circle with Dallavalle’s artistic and emotive philosophy. And,while Dallavalle says she is opening “a new chapter” with her nextcollection, it seems there are many more chapters to follow.

trying to convey them in every piece you create.” It’s maybe this intuitive relationship to design that has given

Elisa Cavaletti its edge and what defines the popularity of the label,which has a loyal following among women of all ages, thanks to itscomplete looks that can be mixed and matched and worn asindividually as the collection is itself. Unsurprisingly, Dallavalledoesn’t have a specific target customer in mind when designing. “Ifyou’re talking about physical appearance, I have no typical or idealcustomer but, if you’re talking about feelings, that’s different,” shesays. “When I create the collection, I think of people as an outwardreflection of their soul, I think of moving them with my product andtry to empathise with them. That’s my secret, and I can’t say it’s everchanged. Over the years, I’ve become a more complete person –mythoughts have matured and this has clearly transformed my creations.”

Elisa Cavaletti’s international success has not just seen thebrand expand across Russia, Northern Europe, Canada and Australia,where the brand is popular, but it’s also gaining momentum in theUK, where it has been represented by agent Joy Redfern since 2010,when it made its market debut. The brand currently has 80 selectedaccounts and is a regular at Moda Woman, where it is one of thebusiest stands at the show each season and set to return once again fornext month’s edition. “I think British people appreciate the fact that Idon’t follow the rules of fashion,” says Dallavalle. “They like my senseof freedom and realise that I offer something new and different. ElisaCavaletti can be paired with any brand and any style, from romanticto minimalist or couture.”

This is mirrored by agent Joy Redfern, who says the brand hasbeen an instant success in the UK, with most of her customers havingstocked the label from the start. “The one word that is most often usedby buyers in describing Elisa Cavaletti is ‘exciting’,” she says. “We musthave heard it hundreds of times over the past four years. Everyoneloves the collection, and its popularity is due mainly to its uniqueness,its quality, the handmade buttons, the colour palette and of course its

“British people like my sense of freedom and realise that Ioffer something new and different. Elisa Cavaletti can bepaired with any brand and any style, from romantic tominimalist or couture”

DanielaDallavalle

GODSKEKIRSTEN KROG DESIGN

JORLIHABELLAROBELL

FRANDSEN OUTERWEARTIA

I’CONAQ NEELQUÉREFA

THAT’S ME BY JAGRO—

Size range: 8-30

PRE COLLECTIONS—

London Showroom6 January - 31 January 2014

Dublin Showroom6 January - 31 January 2014

MAIN COLLECTIONS —

Gallery Dusseldorf30 January - 4 February 2014Fashion House 1 - 2nd Floor

Room 247 - 251

CIFF Copenhagen30 January - 2 February 2014 Bella Centre stand B3 - 241

London Showroom also openSunday 9th Feb 2014Weekend of Pure.

Moda Woman16 February - 18 February 2014

NEC Birmingham, Hall 18 - stand I 14

Dubin ShowroomFashion City from Wednesday 19February 2014, with a Special Eventon Sunday 23 February to Tuesday 25

February 2104.—

LONDON SHOWROOMGodske Group UK.

Showroom: 65 Margaret Street,London W1W 8SPTel: 0207 636 3063 Fax: 0207 636 3863


DUBLIN SHOWROOMGodske Group Ireland, Unit 5,

Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24 Tel: 00353 1 4295042Fax: 00353 1 4295043

Group



BRAND GUIDE—

COLLECTION NEWSTHE KEY BRANDS AND NEW LAUNCHES OF THE SEASON

NEW MODERNITYTHE EXPERTS AT TRENDSTOP PROVIDE AN EXCLUSIVE LOOK AT THEKEY INFLUENCES ON THE SEASON

FASHION FOCUSWWB'S BRAND-BY-BRAND GUIDE TO A/W 14

CHESSBOARD THEORYDIRECTIONAL FASHION GOES BLACK AND WHITE

SEASON’S PREVIEWAUTUMN/WINTER 2014

>>>


TRENDS—

Trend agency Trendstop.com focuses on early consumer analysis, helping you to add trend confidence to your buyingdecisions. For autumn/winter 2014-15, it presents WWB readers with an exclusive look at the key trend, New Modernity.The trend sees fashion go back to basics for an effortless yet elegant chic, inspired by the minimalist aesthetic of Céline.Contemporary autumn/winter 2014 styles are pared back to their essential forms to create styles that appeal with cleanlines, streamlined shapes and a simple purity. —

COLOUR: OPAL GRAY

This cool purple-tinted greyinfuses apparel and accessorieswith a subtle sophistication thisseason, creating an effectivereverse accent next to darkershades. The perfect colour tocomplement soft jersey andwool, leathertextures also lookrefined, as seenthroughout flatStella McCartneyclutches andpolished Lacostefootwear. —

APPAREL: MINIMAL SHIFT

Shifts are stripped back to minimal silhouettes,creating elegant day dresses. Greyscale andmonochrome tones as well as textures such as wool,jersey and wovens are key. Structured shapes andclean lines underline the contemporary mood. —

ACCESSORIES: HARD LINES BAGS

Geometric lines constructcontemporary effects acrossautumn/winter bag styles.Frames and handles appear ingleaming metal lines, shapingangular, clean-edgedsilhouettes for an urbane cityappeal. The trend is versatile

across a range of designs, from shoulder bags toclutches. While monochrome colourways look refined,high-end designers such as Emporio Armani and JasperConran work with other shades including frosted blueor bold red. —

NEWMODERNITY

Stella McCartney

Louise Goldin Lacoste

Proenza

CelineTheyskens

Jasper Conran Emporio Armani

Costume National

Damir


TRENDS—

Trendstop works with leading retailers to ensure key trends are translated appropriately for the targetaudience. Register your interest at www.trendstop.com, or download the Trendstop TrendTracker appfrom your app store.

MATERIAL: BLANKET TEXTURES

Cosy yet chic, this trend shapes womenswear in materialssuch as brushed wool, cashmere and mohair, often completewith blanket-stitched edgings for a relaxed feel. Ideal towrap up with on frosty days, designers including Céline andAgnès B work textures into thick, longline outerwear, whichis on show in colours ranging from natural neutrals to bolderpops of bottle green or buttercup. —

APPAREL:COCOON COAT CHIC

Plain and simple, this season’smust-have cocoon coat encasesthe body with rounded shouldersand protective shapes. Silhouetteswork well with refined neutralcolours such as cream andcaramel, though inky midnightshades lend sophistication forevening. Soft wool texturesensure a cosy insulation againstthe elements. —

FOOTWEAR: MODERN SIMPLICITY SHOE

Women’s footwear is revamped with modern designapproaches, fusing conventional looks withcontemporary constructions to create a new rangeof 21st-century staples. Simple designs take on aluxe finish, as feminine shapes catch the eye with moulded shapes, blocky heels and novel takes on proportion. —

Gucci

Mugler

Unique

Agnès B

Veronique Branquinho

Céline

Céline

Andrea Incontri

Mugler Cheap Monday

Blumarine

Derek Lam >>>

[email protected]

MIROGLIO GROUPAPPOINTS BLD

BLD�International�FashionAgency�has�beenappointed�as�new�salesrepresentative�for�theItalian�group’s�brandsCaractère�and�Elena�Miro,covering�the�UK�andIreland.�

Both�brands�will�berelaunched�for�a/w�14,with�Caractère�seeing�theintroduction�of�a�newcontemporary�eleganceafter�a�new�design�team

has�been�brought�on-board.�The�brand�is�also�launching�a�younger�line,�Tèr�de�Caractère,�which�is�playful�and�trend-driven�and�offers�a�more�relaxedand�sportier�alternative�to�the�main�line,�with�an�emphasis�on�knitwear.�

Plus-size�specialist�Elena�Miro,�meanwhile,�is�launching�White�ElenaMiro,�a�luxurious�and�feminine�collection,�as�well�as�For�Me�Elena�Miro,�acontemporary�range�that�bridges�the�gap�between�curvy�and�regular�sizes.�—


BRANDS—

COLLECTION NEWSTHE BRANDS AND NEW LAUNCHES TO WATCH FOR A/W 14.

FROM SOMEWHERE TAKES ON XO

London�fashion�agency�From�Somewhere�has�taken�onDanish�brand�XO�for�a/w�14.�The�brand,�which�is�short�for�XtraOrdinary,�is�making�its�first�foray�into�the�UK�market,�offeringa�fashion-led�loungewear�range.�The�brand’s�style�DNA�isbased�on�its�Scandinavian�roots,�with�a�simple,�clean�andcasual�direction,�and�a�focus�on�soft�materials�that�arecomfortable�to�wear.�The�brand�is�part�of�fashion�houseContainer,�which�is�represented�across�Europe,�with�the�UKnow�a�key�focus�for�expansion.�—

KIRSTEN STRENGTHENSOUTDOOR OFFER

German�womenswear�brand�Kirsten�hasexpanded�its�outdoor�offer�significantly�for�a/w�14following�the�continued�success�of�the�range.�Inparticular,�the�brand�has�strengthened�itsmodern�and�fashion-led�product�segment,�with�afocus�on�indoor�jackets�and�blazers.�The�outdoorcollection�now�comprises�150�pieces�comparedto�100�in�previous�seasons,�while�the�indoorsegment�has�been�expanded�to�75�pieces,�from50.�According�to�a�spokesperson�for�the�brand,�astronger�focus�on�fashionability�and�trends�hasbeen�introduced�in�response�to�market�demand.Wool�blends,�as�well�as�innovative�and�technofabrics�feature�heavily�in�the�a/w�14�collection.�—

PARKERS RELAUNCHES ECLATLondon fashion agency Parkers is relaunching Italian labelEclat to the UK following the retirement of the previous UKagent. The brand offers a medium priced contemporaryrange which targets fashion-forward women.

NEW BRAND FOR CAROL C COLLECTIONS French brand S’Quise has joined fashion agency Carol CCollections for a/w 14. The brand offers a commercial rangein sizes 10-24, with forward and short order available.Carol C Collections is also celebrating its 10th anniversarythis year, and invites customers to join the celebrationswith a glass of bubbly at next month’s Moda (stand G10).

ISCHIKO JOINS OSKA STABLEGerman designer brand Ischiko has been bought by fellowfashion house Oska. According to a spokesperson, Ischikocomplements the Oska portfolio and will help the companyattract an expanded customer base. The brand will offertwo collections a year of around 40 pieces, continuing tofollow clear-cut silhouettes and a soft, feminine direction.

ASSOCIATED FASHION AGENCIES ADDS BRANDSAssociated Fashion Agencies has added a host of new labelsto its stable for a/w 14. German brand Damo, Greek labelBadoo, Spanish brand Madeline and French label 3322have all joined the portfolio, covering a diversity of stylesand price points.

COVERED MAKES MARKET RELAUNCH

Dutch�outdoor�brand�Covered�makes�a�UK�returnfor�a/w�14,�following�an�absence�of�more�thantwo�years.�The�brand,�which�was�part�of�theBandolera�stable�before�it�went�into�liquidationlast�year,�has�been�revived�by�Jan�Stam,�formeragent�of�the�brand,�who�bought�the�trademarkand�is�now�relaunching�the�label�internationally.�

The�brand�continues�its�focus�on�competitiveprices�and�exclusive�styling,�with�a�collection�of50�pieces�featuring�down�feather�coats�andwoollen�versions,�many�with�lace�appliqué,knitted�detailing�or�striking�hood�collars.�Retailprices�are�€199-€499.�The�brand�is�representedin�the�UK�by�Cocomo�Fashion�agency,�which�alsorepresents�the�relaunched�Bandolera.�—

>>>

Showing AW14 from January 27 to March 10 at:

Pure Olympia: 9-11th Feb | stand N50

London showroom: For appointments, Pls call Anne or Cristina

Tel +44 (0) 207 402 5292 | [email protected]

A U T U M N W I N T E R 2 0 1 4


PURE9th - 11th February 2014Stand N34

INDX12th - 13th February 2014

MODA WOMAN16th - 18th February 2014Stand F10

MANCHESTER SHOWROOM3rd February - 7th February 2014

LONDON SHOWROOM24th February - 7th March 2014

DUBLIN SHOWROOM10th March - 14th March

Email: [email protected]: www.twodanes.dk/retail


BRAND GUIDE—

LUISA CERANOLuisa Cerano references all the main trends thisseason, with tartan prints also among thedominating themes. The looks are relaxed andyet elegant, with black, greys and occasionalprints and splashes of colour key. —

MAXIMAA mix of edgy and luxurious, rock and grungeruns through the collection at Maxima. It’s asmart modernity with a cool and clean look.Oversized tops and cardigans are teamed withslim leather pants, while statement sweaters andpencil skirts are also among the predictedbestsellers. —

Tartan and tartan-inspired prints have trickled down from directionalinto mainstream fashion this season, providing a stylish and fresh take ona/w chic. Whether it’s the classic tartan skirt or pant, or morecontemporary interpretations such as abstract graphics, the black and redcombo works well teamed with black and greys for a sophisticatedHighlands meets grunge look. —

THE LOOK:

TARTAN ARMY

CINQUE


BRAND GUIDE—

RENE LEZARDRene Lezard remains true to its signature style,super luxe but laid back. From oversized cocooncoats through tuxedo suiting to lace tops andprint-on-print pants, the collection is all aboutstatement pieces. A take on tartan prints alsotakes centre stage and gives a grungy directionto the range. —

ATELIER GARDEURThe slim five-pocket drainpipes in new tartancreate a rock chick Brit style and are among thekey trends at Atelier Gardeur. They sit alongsidequirky check pants and denim styles indistressed effects, creating a juxtaposition tootherwise clean looks. Rich dark coloursdominate, including black, oxblood, emeraldgreen and brown. —

G DESIGNChecks in all variations feature at G Design,whether Glen checks or tartans, mixed withleather and suede patches and zipper and rivetdetails for a Brit Punk look. Silhouettes remainfocused on ankle lengths, skinnies and cool bikerlooks, contrasted against casual jogging styles. —

ALICE AND BARNABEQuirky French separates come from Alice andBarnabe, which offers distinctive styles fullof unusual detailing. Wearable dresses andseparates are key, with this season’s colourpalette centred around cobalt blue, brightorange, black and cream patterns, as well astaupe, black and gold. —ANA NONZALoose-fitting silhouettes for easy dressingand a relaxed style describe the collection atAna Nonza. The collection is colourful andquirky, mixing prints with plains for astriking effect. Dresses and coordinatingstyles are the main offering of the brand. —

BANDOLERADetailing and colour take centre stage atBandolera this season, with a colour palettethat concentrates on combinations such asbright blue against black, black and white,and black and red. From urban chic to bikerand rock chick looks, the collection is versatile,referencing all the key trends of the season. —

PASSPORTPassport continues with an opulent theme thiswinter, using a mixture of rich fabrics such asjacquards, boucles and velvets, as well asmetallic treated materials. Tartan featuresheavily, as do checks and houndstooth, whichare having a comeback. Look out for animalprints and graphic patterns, which have beengiven a punky and grungy treatment. —

>>>


BRAND GUIDE—

CREENSTONECreenstone is focusing on extending its luxuryoffer this season, with the addition of more furtrimmed parkas and glamorous city styles. Thecolour palette is dominated by dark hues ofblack, grey and a splash of minimal colour. —

ECLAEcla is fully on trend this season with its clash oftextures and directional looks. Contrasts oftextures dominate, with key looks including head-to-toe blacks, working fine knits againstthe tough image of leather leggings and edgybiker boots.—

Black is a classic for any winter season, but for a/w 14 it’s getting thedeluxe treatment, with a head-to-toe look that is dominated by textures,surface interest and layering. Juxtaposing chunky knits against slickleather trousers, or oversized coats and coatigans with slim silhouettes arekey, as are tonal patterns offset against contrasting graphics. —

THE LOOK:

BACK TO BLACK

FABER


BRAND GUIDE—

ANNETTE GOERTZThe collection offers a dark, moody andluxurious direction, with textured coats andarchitectural tailoring key. Superfine knits playwith form and convention, but remaincommercial and saleable nonetheless. —

SANDWICHSandwich’s design team has been inspired byfrozen landscapes for a/w 14, with prints of icylandscapes key. Materials are heavy and come invarious structures, featuring special techniquessuch as laser print. The colour palette is muted,with greys, black and moss green key. —

STEILMANN Steilmann is all about material mixes this season,staying within muted colour palettes such asblack on black. Boiled wool is combined withsoft, wadded polyester in a leather look. Digitalprints also feature heavily, and can be foundacross jackets and coats as eye-catchingdetailing. —

BETTY BARCLAYSmartness meets femininity and elegance atBetty Barclay this season, with skirts the newkey pieces that are combined with knitpullovers and cardigans. Comfortable jerseydresses also feature, while biker jackets andjersey tops complement the range. —

CAMEL ACTIVEThe new womenswear collection focuses ontraditional and modern influences, withstyles, cuts, materials and treatments stayingin line with the brand’s quality mantra.Shorter bomber jackets and longer parkas areamong the key pieces. —

CREA CONCEPT Look out for soft, quirky and easy dressing atCrea Concept this season. Knitwear is amongthe predicted bestsellers, as are bubblehemdresses, innovatively styled trousers andskirts combined with chunky knits. The brandis also introducing a capsule range of activeand loungewear this season. —

MONARIDecorative knitwear is the focus of Monari,with this season’s designs all aboutstatement pieces. Key looks include a short,boxy sweater with side zippers and birdmotif in studs, layered over a cold dyed topand teamed with tight, printed jeans. —

>>>


BRAND GUIDE—

CLOSEDA sporty urban theme runs through thecollection for a/w 14; oversized cuts arecombined with tighter fits, while loose tops andbottoms make for a casual cool direction. Bikerelements such as zips, inserts and stitching canbe found across jackets, dresses, trousers andblouses. —

ZERRESA colour splash comes in the shape of chicblazers at Zerres this season, while woolentrousers also take centre stage, withhoundstooth, shepherd’s check, glencheck andclassic checks key. Slim silhouettes dominate,but 7/8th lengths also feature. The brand’s figure-shaping Sensational Jeans are alsomaking a return.—

Red sees a comeback this season and is the perfect colour injection to black.Used as colour blocks, it has the strongest effect, however, a more subtle lookcan also be achieved by simply accessorising an otherwise neutral look witha splash of accent in the shape of accessories. —

THE LOOK:

RED ALERT

BITTE KAI RAND


BRAND GUIDE—

LAUREL Rock chic is at the core of Laurel’s collection,which features bold pairings and rich contrasts.Leather, studs, decorative zips, heavy boots andchunky knits are the key ingredients to create thekey looks, with many styles sporting a “lived in”,vintage signature. —

EUGEN KLEINEugen Klein once again offers acompletely coordinated collection ofdaywear, smart suiting, statement solopieces and outerwear, with day to eveningoutfits key. A new skirt collection, Red byEugen Klein, is being launched this season,offering skirts in lengths from 64cm to82cm. —

VERPASSKnitwear, leather, oversized coats and skirts areamong the predicted bestsellers at Verpass.Embellishments on knitwear are central designfeatures, while biker looks are among the keytrends to be referenced in the collection. —

MADELINESpanish brand Madeline is making its UK debutthis season with a feminine collection that isyouthful and modern. The range consists of T-shirts, dresses and jackets, with black and redamong the key shades.—

DOUBLE TWOFrom Double Two comes a range of blousesand shirts, with detailing, floral prints and arage of flattering fits key. From formal workblouses to casual weekend wear, the brandoffers a wide range of designs and colours. —

GUIDO LOMBARDIA beige story dominates at Italian knitwearspecialist Guido Lombardi. Elegant andfeminine sweaters, cardigans and pulloversfeature throughout the collection, with capesand loose, relaxed shapes also among thehighlights. —

HABELLAHabella offers feminine and semi-sportivecoordinates, with jersey among the centralingredients in the range. Long jackets withslim trousers, short jersey jackets coordinatedwith pencil skirts and dresses with patchworkdetailing are among the highlights. —

>>>




BRAND GUIDE—

B.YUCashmere mixes, tweeds and chevron printswith Lurex and diamanté take centre stage atB.Yu. Winter white is among the key colours,sitting alongside rose pink, pearl, pinky red,Bordeaux and navy. —

KIRSTENFeminine city wool coats, sporty jackets, blazersand rainwear are the signature look at Kirsten.Among this season’s predicted bestsellers arequilted, knee-length wool coats, short double-breasted jackets with hoods, fake downreversible coats and mix-and-match fleececardigans. —

Providing a welcome contrast to the black and sombre colour palette that isaround, creams and whites come into their own and offer an altogethersofter and feminine look. The head-to-toe rule still applies, but interest isachieved by also combining different textures and materials, whilstthrowing in some eye-catching metallic for good measure. It’s cleansophistication deluxe. —

THE LOOK:

CLEAN LUXURY

HAUBER


BRAND GUIDE—

PURE BY LUCIA Dominating looks at Pure by Lucia are centredaround combinations of clean neutrals with eye-catching metallics. Embellished prints offerdistinctive detailing, while silhouettes remainfeminine but soft to create a relaxed sense ofelegance. —

LATTELatte has embraced the Renaissance trend fora/w 14, playing with yarns, textures and printsthat are rich and embellished. Statement vintagetunic tops are among the predicted bestsellers,with winter accessories such as beanie hats,scarves and jewellery a new addition to therange this season. —

MARC AURELThe dominating trend at Marc Aurel is GlamGrunge, a mix of distressed-effect garments andpunk influences, but combined with luxuriousmaterials. The brand’s golden biker jacket isamong the key pieces and is complemented withan off-white, fake fur gilet for ultimateeffortlessness. —

JAMES LAKELANDThere are three main style directions atJames Lakeland this season. Stand-out coatsin block colours and digital prints are amongthe central pieces, while reversible softslouchy knits are teamed with heavy stretchsuperfit trousers. Finally, a jersey, big zip,ponti sleeveless waistcoat is among the heropieces in the collection. —

JORLIOn-trend dresses, tunics, chunky knits andslim-fit trousers are among the highlights atJorli this season. Aubergines, pinks andmustards make up the colour palette, whilesoft greys and black are also a key staple. —

KIRSTEN KROGBold colours and eye-catching prints definethe collection at Kirsten Krog. The colourpalette is made up of poppy red, azure blue,violet, oyster and black, while styles will takethe wearer from smart daywear to party andoccasion dressing. —

ELENA MIROSophisticated luxury is the motto at Elena Mirothis season. Soft creams, white and off-whitesare contrasted against black, browns andmonochromes, while silhouettes remain ultrafeminine and flattering. —

>>>


BRAND GUIDE—

CHARLI Soft�clean�lines�and�interesting�finishes�describethe�direction�at�Charli,�which�once�again�has�astrong�focus�on�knitwear�and�easy-to-wear�jerseypieces.�The�brand�specialises�in�luxury�basics,with�muted�tones�key�this�season.�—

CARLA GOLIPrinted�dresses�are�among�the�predictedbestsellers�at�Carla�Goli.�Key�trends�include�softdresses�with�matching�jackets�and�coats,�withjewel�colours,�black,�grey�and�camel�making�upthe�dominating�colour�palette.�—

Completing the seasonal colour palette for autumn/winter 2014 is grey,which comes in many guises and promises to be one of the most versatileshades. Whether worn with black, lighter or darker shades, teamed withgentle pastels or contrasted with bold prints, grey is chic and feminine,without being quite as harsh as the ubiquitous black. —

THE LOOK:

SHADES OF GREY

MARC CAIN


BRAND GUIDE—

ADINITimeless�Parisian�style�was�the�main�inspirationfor�Adini’s�collection�this�season.�Chunky�knitsand�cocoon�coats�feature�heavily,�as�do�luxuryknits.�Decadent�florals,�smart�mini�prints�andblock�panels�are�among�the�style�elements.�—

GELCOBlack�is�the�base�colour�at�Gelco�this�season,along�with�subtle�and�neutral�hues�of�grey�andtaupe,�which�form�the�basis�for�a�versatilecollection�of�trousers,�dresses,�skirts,�blazers,blouses�and�knitwear.�Faux�leathers�and�coatedsuede�effects�are�used�as�clever�detailing,�whilefake�Tibetan�lamb�and�natural�lambskin�alsofeature.�—

MICHELEInnovative�techno�fabrics�are�at�the�core�thisseason,�combining�comfort�with�function.�Jerseyfabrics�add�to�the�fashion�level,�with�activewear-inspired�technical�surfaces�andNeoprene�becoming�key�materials.�Bodyhugging�silhouettes�prevail,�while�shorter�lengthstyles�are�also�popular�and�the�ideal�partner�tobe�teamed�with�ankle�boots.�—

NICE CONNECTIONKnitwear focusing on wool/cashmere mixesis central to Nice Connection. This season, thebrand favours a neutral colour palette, withbeige, camel, silver, grey and soft pinkamong the dominating shades. Look out fortwin sets in prints and plain versions, whichare among the highlights. —

PICADILLYLook out for stripes, animal prints andabstract graphics making trendy statementsat Picadilly for a/w 14. Dresses andcoordinating tops are among the key styles,while colour stories are rich and warm,including reds, navy, emerald, burnt orangeand marigold .—

TONIThe new collection follows the theme of“mystic glam rock”, bringing togetherdecorative elements such as studs, zips, chainsand leather appliques. Alongside the denimrange of washes and dyes, the colour conceptstays muted and focused on darker shades,while surface interest is created throughlasered finishes, used looks, and overdyed anddistressed effects. —

LECOMTELayering�is�key�at�Lecomte,�with�relaxedsilhouettes�that�are�easy�to�wear�and�easy�to�mixand�match.�Oversized�cardigans�with�featurecollars�are�among�the�highlights,�while�thecolour�palette�is�dominated�by�subtle�neutrals,with�head-to-toe�grey�among�the�central�themes.—



THE GALLERY, DUSSELDORF Jan 31 - Feb 3 | Stand 3.16

PURE, LONDON Feb 9 - 11 | Stand N72

INDX, BIRMINGHAM Feb 12 - 13

MODA, BIRMINGHAM Feb 16 - 18 | Stand E14

SHOWROOM 40 Chiltern Street, London W1U 7QNFebruary 4 � March 6 T: 020 7483 8438 E: [email protected]

www.saharalondon.com

Designer collections for the style-conscious, free-spirited woman in real sizes.

4 8 M O R T I M E R S T R E E TL O N D O N W 1 W 7 R N

SA L E S@YUM I . UK . COM

A/W 2014

Chessboardtheory

DIRECTIONAL WOMENSWEAR IS BOLD ANDMONOCHROME FOR A/W 14, WITH BLACK AND WHITEPROVIDING AN EDGY AND CONTEMPORARY TWIST ON A

FASHION CLASSIC. —

Dress: Prey of London, £45.79, 020 7488 1380 Shoes: Zaha Hadid for United Nude, price on request, 020 7940 1700 Flower necklace: Stylist’s ownTights: Stylist’s own


Left to right:Coat: Parka London, £100, 020 7424 6889Dress: Neon Rose, £30, 0161 235 5289Knot necklace: Gaby’s, £10, 01985 211926Tights: Stylist’s own—Dress: Cameo, £45, 020 7349 8887Bag: Dents, £12, 01985 211921Cuff: Ingenious Jewellery, price on request, 020 8445 6234Shoes and tights: Stylist’s own

Long jacket and shorts: Selected Femme, £25 and £16.66, 020 7650 2016Bib necklace: Sam Ubhi, price on request, 020 8767 5533Tights and boots: Stylist’s own

Dress: Ruby Rocks, £26, 07973 718301Long blazer: Selected Femme, £34.48, 020 7650 2016 Boots and tights: Stylist’s own


Leather biker jacket and quilted shorts: Of the Realm, £156 and £68,0161 829 0751V-neck blouse: Charli, £46, 020 8440 1321Necklace: Stylist’s ownBoots and tights: Stylist’s own


Left to right:Dress: Neon Rose, £30, 0161 235 5289Fur gilet: Jay Ley Collection, price on request, 01782 658947Bow headband: Stylist’s ownTights: Stylist’s own—Blouse and skirt: Cameo, £32 and £37, 020 7349 8887Stole: Dents, £13, 01985 211921Brooch: Stylist’s ownTights and boots: Stylist’s own—Blouse: Selected Femme, £11.66, 020 7650 2016 Skirt: Of the Realm, £95, 0161 829 0751Cuff: Ingenious Jewellery, price on request, 020 8445 6234Tights: Stylist’s own

Dress: Sugarhill Boutique, £17.50, 01273 911393Jacket: Prey of London, £61.05, 020 7488 1380 Necklace: Stylist’s ownBoots and tights: Stylist’s own

Jumper: Neon Rose, £28, 0161 235 5289Silk print trousers: Sugarhill Boutique, £13.90, 01273 911393Necklace: Stylist’s ownSocks and trainers: Stylist’s own

Peplum top: Of the Realm, £90, 0161 829 0751Pencil skirt: Charli, £46, 020 8440 1321Gloves: Dents, £28, 01985 211921

Dress: Ruby Rocks, price on request,07973 718301 Pearl bubble necklace: Gaby’s, £15, 01985 211926Brooch: Stylist’s ownHat: Stylist’s own

Dress: Stella Nova, £28, 020 3302 8867 Cuff: Sam Ubhi, £220, 020 8767 5533Tights and boots: Stylist’s own

Photographs: Darren Black, www.darrenblackphotography.com Model: Becky, Oxygen Models, www.oxygenmodels.com Styling: Fran Lee, Production Element, www.productionelement.com Hair and make-up: Charlotte Yeomans, www.charlotteyeomans.com

Unless otherwise stated, all prices are wholesale


Garments that won’t hang about.The steamer that will.

For more informationTel: 020 8417 0660 www.propress.co.uk

THE MODA PARTYMONDAY 17 FEBRUARY 2014

RECEPTION DRINKS FROM 7PMDELICIOUS PUB GRUB | LIVE MUSIC

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PREVIEW—

Entering its seventh season, Scoop International has become the trade show for contemporary and emerging directionaldesigners by showcasing a host of exciting brands and labels alongside cutting edge modern paintings, sculpture andinstallation, creating a unique synergy between fashion and art. Last season the show nearly doubled in size, havingexpanded into an additional venue, Phillips, at Howick Place, near Victoria and, for a/w 14, the show once again returns toboth its sites.

True to the visionary ethos of Scoop, Phillips will feature a unique showcase comprising aroma as art, showcasinginstallation pieces that epitomise one of a collection of sublime artisan perfumes curated by Intertrade Europe, CelsoFadelli’s global art perfumery pioneers. They sit among a fashion-forward and contemporary mix of designer collections,including Lithuanian label Loulu Et Tu, which offers a mix of classic everyday workwear and eveningwear pieces that areboth statement and refined. The brand philosophy is based on a European design aesthetic, with a focus on quality staplepieces of classical silhouettes and colour-blocking to add a fresh look to the sophisticated modern-day woman’s wardrobe.Zoë Carol at the vanguard of Irish labels, showcases her latest womenswear collection with sharp tailoring andminimalistic design, while Rachel Antonio provides relaxed elegance with strong but understated style. Danish label Day

SCOOPLast season Scoop international debuted its second venue, Philips at Howick Place, almost doubling its

exhibition space. For a/w 14 the show is once again returning to the venue, showcasing even more exclusivenames across ready- to- wear, accessories and footwear.

—

Mury

Rachel Antonio

Loulu Et Tu

Parajumpers

Day Birger et Mikkelsen Emma Louise London


PREVIEW—

Birger et Mikkelsen is making a welcome return to the show, presenting a collection that has been inspired by a journeyfrom East to West but always with its signature laid-back chic. Fellow Danish label Kudibal is making its Scoop debut, with acollection based on stretch silk satin, wool and cashmere.

New handbag label Mury specialises in printed canvas especially developed in Italy and coated with PVC before beingscreen-printed and texture-finished, making for unique stand-out items. Jewellery label Kat & Bee is also all about statementpieces, with quirky and oversized styles key, combining a wealth of material mixes. Over at Virginie Castaway, the collectioncombines relaxed chic, with jerseys, soft wool and cashmere pieces key and fur details and sequins adding an extra dose ofglamour. Meanwhile, Italian brand Parajumpers specialises in extremely innovative outerwear with highly technologicalcomponents designed, above all else, to be functional.

Elsewhere, Brit brand Penelope Chilvers combines contemporary, fashion led design with enduring style andtraditional craftsmanship, producing timeless, made-to-last pieces that work seamlessly with each season’s trends, while USfootwear brand Coye Nokes makes its first appearance at the show with a range of high-quality footwear, ranging fromchunky mid-heels to low-wedge boots to chic ankle boots and modern classics.

• Scoop International takes place on 19-21 February at Phillips, Howick Place, and Saatchi Gallery, Chelsea • Buyers can register online for complimentary tickets at scoop-international.com• There is a complimentary shuttle service between the two venues available throughout the three days of the event

Coye Nokes Zoe Carol Virginie Castaway

KudibalKat & Bee

Penelope Chilvers

88WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk—JANUARY 2014

PROMOTION—

NEWS Industry news that’s relevant toyou, from new launches to tradingpredictions and business reports. —RETAILWant to explore multi-channellingin order to drive sales, learn moreabout the latest market research orgain inspiration for visualmerchandising? You’ll find it all here – and it could prove highly profitable. —BRANDSUseful profiles of familiarfavourites and up-and-comingbrands alike, along with broaderfeatures on their evolution,strategy and direction. —OPINIONRead what the experts think aboutcurrent and ongoing issuesaffecting the industry – theirinsights could prove invaluable toyour business. —FEATURESReports, interviews and brandprofiles on the issues, industryfigures and companies everyonewants to know about. —EVENTSAs well as previews and reviews,wwb-online.co.uk will keep youinformed about the essential datesfor your diary. —BLOGWWB’s bloggers are passionateabout the fashion industry andalways have something interestingto say. Find out what’s getting them talking.

Wwb-online.co.uk is theessential free business tool,bringing you industry advice,up-to-the-minute news,insightful features and trend information at the click of a button.

From the team behind WWB magazine, thewebsite covers every aspect of the womenswearindustry. Frequently updated news across a broadrange of topics will help you keep your fingeron the pulse, while a variety of unique contentthat complements WWB’s comprehensiveindustry and style reports brings you rounded,in-depth knowledge and information.

Brand spotlights, short-order specials and trendoverviews are just some of the must-readfeatures, all of which will aid your buyingdecisions and help enhance your in-store offer.

The Retail section provides further vitalinspiration, covering everything from visualmerchandising ideas to advice and suggestionsfrom the brains behind some of the UK’s mostsuccessful independents. Articles in the Peoplesection focus on the movers and shakers acrosswomenswear, to give you the inside track onwhat makes them tick and how they stay aheadof the game. —

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FIRST LOOKAT MODAModa is back for a/w 14, taking place on 16-18 February at the NECBirmingham, with another strong line-up of contemporary labels acrossready-to-wear, footwear and accessories. WWB takes a look at some of thebrands at the show.—

PREVIEW—

BRAX

Making its Moda debut with its womenswear (the brand is aregular in Moda Gent), Brax is inspired by Great Britain fora/w 14, with the theme translated into checks, flowers andstud elements for a royal punk theme. Highlights includetartan blouses with leather piping and floral trimmings,voluminous knits in a variety of shapes and lengths, and adown jacket in a digital fur-effect print. The paletteencompasses wintery greens, intense blues and deep redsalongside beige, grey and black, with accents of warmsherry, chestnut and gold.—

FRANK SAUL

Frank Saul returns to Moda with acomprehensive collection of knitwear, fromdelicately beaded, lightweight knits andstretch jersey tops in soft earthy tones toknitted jackets, cardigans and wraps in softboucle yarns and marl twist with luxury,soft metallic jacquards. The collection alsofeatures cotton shine and angora mix, withsequin and bead detail, and easy, flowingknitted tops, in a palette of berry tones, fromrich plum to velvety burgundy, and cobaltblues through to denim shades, as well asstark black and white.—

RINO & PELLE

Dutch brand Rino & Pelle makes its Modadebut this season with a collection ofouterwear classics reinvented with a moderntwist, mixing different textiles andmaterials with both iconic pieces and newstyles. Expect updated leather pilot and bikerjackets alongside new statement pieces suchas furry, printed peacoats and mixed yarnparkas with contrasting elements.—

TULCHAN

The a/w 14 collection fromTulchan features a number oflimited-edition styles, incelebration of the brand’s 30thanniversary. Highlights includebespoke prints applied toknitwear, outerwear andaccessories, with the robin motifjumper and matching scarf themust-see piece.—

PREVIEW—

MISS MILLYBritish jewellery and accessoriesbrand Miss Milly makes itsAdorned at Moda debut thisseason. The brand’s new AmoraCollection focuses on a romanticnomad trend, styled withgeometric shapes and matte silvermetal, embellished with stones inpastel shades of duck egg blue,pale pistachio, salmon rose anddusky sand. The award-winningFlora collection is influenced bythe Tropics, featuring palmfronds, parrot feathers andbutterfly wings, in a brightcolour palette, while the brand’sscarves and snoods complementboth jewellery collections.—LÉO GUYFounded in Paris in 1978, Frenchknitwear specialist Léo Guymakes its debut at Moda thisseason with an elegant range ofsweaters, cardigans, twin-setsand dresses aimed at the fashion-conscious woman aged 30-plus.—COLINEThe French label, based inBordeaux in South West France,will appear at Moda for the firsttime in February. The mid-priced collection, whichspans urban and sportswear, is colourful with an ethnic touch, targeting women whovalue originality and enjoy their femininity.—

SAINT JAMES

French brand Saint James,established in Normandy in 1850and known for its qualitymaritime-oriented knitwear,makes its debut at Moda thisseason with a full collection ofwomenswear, including dresses,jackets, trousers and blousesalongside its traditional jumpersand T-shirts in nautical stripes. —


IRELANDS EYE

The contemporary Dublin knitwear labelhas expanded its collection this season toinclude finer gauge wool cashmere piecesalongside its plush cabled chunky woolcashmere sweaters and cardigans, for trans-seasonal pieces that can be wornfrom winter through spring. A new cottonand linen range takes the look rightthrough to summer, with cabled sweatersand cardigans in muted tones offeringrelaxed luxury for the warmer months. —

NOMADS

Fairtrade label Nomads’ a/w 14collection is divided into threethemes. The Silk Route takes itsinspiration from the textiles ofIndia, China and Japan,featuring embroidered lotusflowers and appliqué butterfliesin soft hues of ivory and duckegg. The Curator was inspired bythe luxurious fabrics andsilhouettes of days gone by, withtapestry florals, rich velvets anddecorative jacquards key. WorldTraveller, meanwhile, takes itsinfluence from the brand’sarchive of fabrics, and sees ikatdesigns and peacock motifs sitalongside trailing ditsy printsand sequins in a bold palette ofpomegranate, cherry, marmaladeand plum.—

JAMES LAKELAND

Energy, excitement and passion characterise JamesLakeland’s a/w 14 collection, highlights of whichinclude stand-out coats in block colours anddigital prints, reversible soft, slouchy knits,teamed with heavy stretch trousers, stretch tunicdresses and a jersey ponti sleeveless waistcoat. Softpink, combined with lace, embroidery, great cutsand texture, create a modern edge for the womanwho is confident in her femininity.—


FORUM—

G-Star Raw launches its new retailconcept on Oxford Street in Londonlast month.

The minimalist and gallery-like flagship store is set over470 sqm and features the brand’s denim for both men andwomen. The denim wall has been reinvented into aniconic presentation of seven key styles, showing off thecraftsmanship, materials and 3D engineering of thedenim. A comfortable fitting room with a personalisedservice takes centre stage, while the stockroom has beenopened up and exposed into a key feature, displayedbehind a fully glass-fronted mezzanine with thesystematically organised stock clearly visible to all. —

G-STARRETHINKS DENIMRETAIL

ALEXANDRA’S EXPANDSWITH NEW SHOP

After three years of trading onMain Street in Keswick, Cumbria,womenswear indie Alexandra’smade the move into largerpremises in Packhorse Courtnearer the town centre beforethe end of last year. OwnerAlexandra Boardman had beenlooking for suitable largerpremises that couldaccommodate the growth of thestore, and was thrilled to havefound, signed and sealed thecontracts within five weeks. The launch was celebrated with a special Fizzy Friday party open to selected loyal customersand friends of the store, and nowBoardman is looking forward to adding more brands to herstore mix. —

After flat sales and a shocking lack of footfall inOctober and early November, the last six weeksof 2013 formed a very promising springboard

for us to launch into the New Year. —

Our newest addition to the shop is Marc Cain,which began to arrive in late November. Thebrand has a strong following and we havelearned it has a strong customer base inColchester. Naturally, we wanted to positionourselves in their sightline, so we began a softcampaign on Twitter and Facebook in theweeks prior to its arrival and gathered newcustomers’ contact details. The delivery hasbeen arriving quite sporadically but when wehave sufficient in-store we will hold aninformal drinks reception showcasing thecollection to those customers exclusively.Given the profile of the brand and theloyalty it enjoys we hope to secure a newcustomer from this introduction andreposition ourselves in the minds of theconsumer. I’d love to say we’re immune to theever-advancing Sales, now arriving longbefore Christmas but, as any retailer knows,reality and cash-flow often need to takeprecedent over principle. In our case, the pre-Christmas Sale worked a treat. Wemaximised its impact by revamping the shopfloor and devoting the downstairs entirely toSale merchandise, with the new collectionson the first floor. It was a radical shift for usfrom a 29-year-old set-up where the firstfloor was referred to as the Sale Room. Theresult was the most successful first day of theWinter Sale we have ever had. This has mademe rethink a lot of things regarding how weencourage customers to shop. Essentially, Ithink it’s just a case of making it easy for thecustomer to find what they want, and if wewant to sell Sale merchandise we need to haveit right there when they walk in! I’ve alwaystried to take heed of Einstein’s wisdom that ifwe keep doing the same things we’ll keepgetting the same results, but now and again Ineed reminding to shake things up. As asmall business owner, it’s easy to becomeembroiled in administration, so new ideasare often crushed beneath the weight of thepiles of paperwork. We all feel encouragedhere now and keen to take on 2014with freshthinking and a positive perspective.

Vicki Wheeler is founder and owner ofAmbiance of Colchester and acommittee member of the FashionAssociation of Britain (FAB)www.fashion associationofbritain.co.uk

RETAIL DIARYThe latest news from the industry—

RETAILFORUM


FORUM—

NORR MAKES UK FORAY

Danish retail concept Norr has launchedconcessions at four House of Fraser stores, inan exclusive partnership to introduce theScandinavian chain to the UK.

The concessions will be available at House ofFraser stores in Manchester, Birmingham,Glasgow and Guildford in Surrey, as well asonline at www.houseoffraser.co.uk. Norr isan innovative retail offering that unitescontemporary womenswear and luxuryhomeware from some of Denmark’s mostcoveted fashion and lifestyle brands, such as St-Martins and S’nob, in distinctive shop-in-shop environments. —

SOHO POP-UPSHOP FORJOYRICH US brand Joyrich is entering the UK marketwith a pop-up event in London this month,taking over a room at super-cool Soho indieMachine-A and turning it into a dedicatedJoyrich space selling s/s 14 merchandise.

The brand draws on a variety of designsources, with bright graphics having become the trademark of the label, with a“retro-future” flair inspired by iconic itemsfrom the past also key. —

TonicFulham Road, London, SW10 9QH

Established: 2012Owner:Maureen�Dolan�Brands: Sisters�Point,�Redsoul,�Pit,�Blend,Coster�Copenhagen,�Silvian�Heach,�Culture�

“The shop is in Fulham Road in London, nottoo far from my workplace, so I can pop induring my lunch break to have a look at theirnew stock. They have something new everyweek and I love the fact that they offer bothmenswear and womenswear. The shop has areal Danish feel, from the wooden floordetails to the minimalistic furniture. Angela,who is the store manager, is a fabulous visualmerchandiser and window dresser, so alwaysknows how to make the collections stand out.The customer service is over the top, theyalways go the extra mile for their clients.Definitely worth a visit.”—

MY FAVOURITESHOP...TONICby Kinsie Sidolle, womenswearsales manager, TCA Showroom

EVE MOREVEBenvestito, Weybridge

WHAT ARE YOULOOKING FOR IN A NEWLABEL FOR A/W 14?

—

“A�priority�is�flexibilityof�delivery�dates;�we�donot�want�to�receiveautumn�stock�in�June�orspring�stock�inDecember�and�January.We�are�also�looking�formanufacturers�withlower�price�points,�toincrease�our�marginwithout�reducingquality.”�—

PAMELA STEVENTONCasa Magnolia, Newton Abbot

“I’m�looking�out�forsomething�where�youdon’t�have�to�placereally�big�orders.�I�don’twant�packs�of�things.You’ve�got�to�be�carefulnot�to�be�overstocked,and�you�don’t�want�tobe�forced�to�have�bigsales,�either.�What�I’mlooking�for�is�a�labelthat’s�different,�stylishand�up-market.”—

JAYNE VAUGHANBelle Diva, Solihull

“I’m�looking�for�amutually�beneficialpartnership,�based�ontrust�and�honesty.�Irecently�began�stockinga�label�which�is�justfantastic�from�amarketing�perspective;it�sent�out�cataloguesbefore�the�stock�arrivedand�I�received�a�CD�formy�marketingcampaign.�It�was�reallyproactive.”��—

HEIDEL CAMPBELLPuschka, Chichester

“I’ll�be�looking�for�goodquality�at�reasonableprices.�The�recessionhas�been�really�tough,and�it’s�getting�tougheron�the�high�street;�we’recompeting�with�theinternet,�and�sometimesour�own�suppliers.People�just�don’t�wantto�pay�hundreds�ofpounds�for�a�wintercoat�any�more.”��—



EXPERTS—

HOW CAN I MAKETHE MOST OF ONLINEOPPORTUNITIES?E-commerce has certainly been on the up in 2013 and, with the trendonly expected to grow in 2014, how can businesses ensure they aremaking the most of the opportunities open to them?

DON’T IGNORE THE HIGH STREETOnline retail may be seen as a replacement for the high street but, in2014, e-commerce sites will need bricks-and-mortar stores morethan ever. As consumers switch to shopping across multiplechannels and blend online with offline shopping, e-commercecompanies should be looking to establish a high-street presence, socustomers can see products up close and try before they buy.OFFER A PERSONALISED SERVICE It’s becoming more important to treat customers as individuals,however a recent study by customer experience expert SDL suggestedthat 36 per cent of European online retailers have not invested in in-house personalisation services for customers. Retailers shouldoffer customers tailored recommendations and send them targetedmessages about deals that may interest them or gently remind themabout abandoned shopping carts to show they are noticed and valued.CREATE A MOBILE-FRIENDLY SITEToday’s shoppers want to make purchases on the go, and are usingmobile devices to access the web. Data from SplitPixel predicts thatthere will be an 84 per cent increase in mobile devices’ share of websitehits between 2013 and 2014 while, by next year, more than half ofpeople will have used mobile devices to carry out online purchases.Where possible, make sure you factor mobile shopping in your e-commerce strategy to avoid alienating this growing customer base.KEEP YOUR WEBSITE UPDATEDKeeping website content regularly updated can be time consuming,but it is important to the success of an e-commerce store. Not only willit increase your website’s searchability, but updating with high-quality,appropriate video, image-led and written content will single you outas a knowledgeable resource and keep consumers coming back. TARGET EXISTING CUSTOMERSData gathered by Yotpo shows that new visitors spend an average oftwo minutes and 31 seconds on a site, compared with five minutesand 31 seconds for returning visitors. Returning visitors also look atmore pages per visit on average and are more likely to makepurchases, meaning campaigns that target existing customers canpay off – so don’t forget them or assume their continued loyalty.—

HOW DO YOU VALUEAGENT COMPENSATION?How do you value compensation to be paid to your agent ontermination of the agency agreement? For some time, the position hasbeen clear – compensation is the price that a notional third-partypurchaser would pay for the agency if the agency had continued andwas made available for sale on the open market.

Usually, the amount in question is determined on the basis of expertevidence put forward by agent and principal.

Indeed, this was the position in the latest reported court caseconcerning compensation. The experts in this case had agreed thedirect costs of the agency. But there was a dispute as to the indirectcosts to be deducted from the profits of the agency in order toascertain the net income stream. The agent held a number ofagencies with different principals. The agencies generated anaggregate annual commission of around £1m. Accordingly, the£60,000 annual commission that was achieved under theterminated agency agreement represented only a small proportionof the agent’s total commissions received each year. The agent’sexpert claimed that the majority of the agent’s overheads should beregarded as fixed costs because they would continue to be required tosupport the agent’s other agencies, whether or not the agent still hadthe agency with the former principal.

Unsurprisingly, the former principal’s expert disagreed.Instead, he proposed “absorption costing”, by which all overheads(including fixed costs) were to be apportioned to costs centres andincome streams using pre-determined rates. The court preferred theevidence of the agent’s expert on fixed costs. However, what of themultiplier to be applied to the annual net income stream? Theformer principal argued that a multiplier of 2 times should beapplied. In contrast the agent argued that a multiplier of 7 timesshould be applied. The judge, in a Solomonesque decision,determined that a multiplier of 4.5 times would be applied to the netincome stream. While this was less than the amount the agent hadsought, it is the case that it was still 250 per cent more than theprincipal had offered to pay and, with a certain degree of planning,the principal could possibly have avoided having to make a paymentof this amount.

To avoid paying compensation, the principal must provide inthe agency agreement that on termination the agent will be entitledunder the regulations to an indemnity and not compensation.

If the payment of compensation or indemnity is to beavoided, then the principal must point to a material breach of theagency by the agent which justifies immediate termination. —

Stephen Sidkin is a partner in Fox Williams LLP (www.agentlaw.co.uk,www.fashionlaw.co.uk).

James Hardy is head of Europe for Alibaba.com.

ADVICEIndustry experts answer your retail questions

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NAMES AND NUMBERS

Alice and Barnabe 01626 879998Ana Nonza 01626 879998Annette Goertz 020 7436 0701 www.annettegoertz.comApanage 020 7636 7111 www.apanage.de Atelier Gardeur 0049 5241 3076194 www.gardeur.de Bandolera 07769 700 037 www.bandolera.com Betty Barclay 020 7580 3577 www.bettybarclay.co.uk Bitte Kai Rand 07463 645670 www.bittekairand.com/uk B.YU 020 7434 1994 www.b-yu.it Cameo 020 7349 8887 www.cameothelabel.com.au Caractere 020 7580 5075 www.caractere.it Carla Goli 020 7434 1994 www.carlagoli.it Charli 020 8440 1321 www.charli.co.uk Cinque 020 7580 6244 www.cinque.de Closed 0049 40 44 1840 66 www.closed.com Crea Concept 020 7436 0631 www.creaconcept.com Creenstone 020 7436 1701 www.creenstone.comDay Birger et Mikkelsenwww.day.dk Dents 01985 211921Double Two 01924 375651 Ecla 020 7434 1994Elisa Cavaletti 07876 333397 www.elisacavaletti.com Eugen Klein 020 7636 5477 www.eugenklein.com Elena Miro 020 7580 5075 www.elenamiro.com Faber 020 7636 9140 www.faber.deGaby’s 01985 211926Gelco 020 7580 3202 www.gelco.de Godske 020 7636 3063 www.godske.com Guido Lombardi 01625 529529 Habella 020 7636 3063 www.godske.com Hauber 020 7323 6100 www.hauber-collection.deIngenious Jewellery 020 8445 6234 www.ingenious-jewellery.com James Lakeland 020 7636 7130 www.jameslakeland.net Jay Ley Collection 01782 658947Jorli 020 7636 3063 www.godske.com Kirsten 020 7636 4207 www.kirsten-mode.com Latte 041 204 0699 www.premierfashions.co.uk Luisa Cerano 020 7323 6101 www.luisacerano.com Madeline 0034 916522316 www.madelinefactory.com Marc Aurel 0049 5241 9450 www.marc-aurel.com Marc Cain 0049 7471 7090 www.marc-cain.com Michele 020 7636 4207 www.michele.de Monari 020 7636 4207 www.monari.de Neon Rose 0161 235 5289 www.neonrose.com Of the Realm 0161 829 0751 Parka London 020 7424 6889 www.parkalondon.com Passport 020 7580 3202 www.passport-fashion.de Prey of London 0207 488 1380 www.preyoflondon.com Qneel 020 7636 3063 www.godske.com Ravel 01706 212512Refa 020 7636 3063 www.godske.com Rene Lezard 020 7436 1701 www.renelezard.comRuby Rocks 07973 718301 www.rubyrocks.comSam Ubhi 020 8767 5533 www.samubhi.com Sandwich 020 7751 9000 www.veldhovengroup.com Selected Femme 020 7650 2016 www.selected.com Steilmann 020 7291 0520 www.steilmann.com Sugarhill Boutique 01273 911393 www.sugarhillboutique.comVerpass 0049 9266 96471 www.verpass.com Zerres 0049 2 1186 28990 www.zerres.de

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UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL—

You launched Innocenza in 2008 and have recently added a retail armto your operation with the launch of Norr to the UK. What does thismean for your agency? It means I am able to represent an opportunity for my brand partners in theUK and a new concept of concession retailing. Norr is a new, unique retailoffering that unites contemporary womenswear and luxury homeware fromsome of Denmark’s most coveted fashion and lifestyle brands in distinctiveshop-in-shop environments. Running retail also gives us first-handunderstanding of the challenges our wholesale customers face.

Before launching the agency you worked as a designer for bespokehigh-end clothing – what prompted you to take the leap intobecoming an agent? My personal experience of being an independent designer made me realisehow challenging the fashion business is if you are not properly representedby an agent who is passionate about you and your brand. I set up Innocenza soI could truly represent labels but also lend my broader experience.

What is your niche as a fashion agent? I am committed to finding new talent in Europe and bringing them to the UK.I love discovering new designers who are not only original but also knowhow to design and deliver on time and on budget with a clear brand identity.

Why did you decide to specialise in Nordic labels? I launched Innocenza at the start of the recession. Gestuz, my first Danishbrand, presented a distinct opportunity for premium retailers who needed anentry price-point product without compromising on quality and identity.Gestuz was one of the first labels that offered this at that time. Still to this day,my Scandinavian designers, no matter what price or market level theyoperate within, consistently deliver on design, quality and value for money.

What are your plans for the agency in the future? Last year I opened a larger showroom in the West End, launched the fourNorr concessions and expanded my team, all while still growing my businessin a challenging market. It has opened up further exciting opportunities toexpand Norr, as well as retail opportunities for my other designers. —

INSIDER:

Who is your style icon and why? Coco Chanel – classic, boyish,unconventional and unbelievablycommitted to her brand and vision. —Which fashion business do youadmire and why? Burberry – a heritage brand thatsince reinvention has continued toinnovate, stay relevant and createexciting collections, which arecommercial and influential. —What’s the best piece of industryadvice you’ve ever been given? Follow your instinct and never giveup. Have patience, perseverance anda strong handle on cash flow. —What’s the one fashion item youcan’t live without? Boy shoes. They complement everydesigner in my showroom!—

SOFIA STRAZZANTIThe owner of fashion agency Innocenza talks about finding a niche in the

market and her ambitious plans for the business.—



Documents

WWB234 MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER ISSUE