1. 12-15 Fred BeckeyGeorge Leigh MalloryVoytek KurtykaFreedom Of The Hills

2. HudsonStuckMount Mckinley Permitsystem;Glacier Travel 3. ;Telemark SkingSnowshoeing; 4. * RopeTeams *Anchor All Belays.* * ** * Trip Itinerary * *John Mair 5. 145-150 belayingBelayer 7-1aThe Braking HandThe Feeling Hand : 6. Braking Position 7-lba.b.7-2 7-2a 7-2cHipBelay 7-2 7. Pitch() 8. ProtectionChocks 7-3Fall Factor 7-3 9. 10. 203-212 Face ClimbingSlab 9-7ClingHold 9-8 9-8a 9-8b 9-8c/ 9-8f 9-8eThe PinchGripFoot Jam 9-9aToeing In 11. 9-9bBuckethold 9-10Step Slab Climbing 9-l1 FrictionClimbingFace HoldsLiebackStemming, 9-12a 12. Mantel 9-13Counterforce9-14a9-14b 9-l4cUndercling 9-15Rock Flake 13. Stemming Bridging V Dihedral Open Book 9-16a 9-16b Lieback 9-17 ( 9-17b)( 9-18) (Counterbalance)(Flagging)-- ; 9-19 14. :;;;;;(Dynamic Move) (Dead Point) 9-20, 15. 329-334 l3-17 16. StepKicking 17. 30 35 13-l8 45 13-19 13-20 l3-17 40 45 18. 13-21 13-22; 19. 335-340 Plung-Stepping 13-23 13-24 Glissading 20. 13-25a 13-25b 21. 13-25c- 22. Avalanche Cushions 23. 13-15 24. 430-435 Step-Cutting 15-10: 25. 30 15-11) 15-12 15-13 15-14 26. () 45 27. 28. 498-501 29. 600800 30. ? ( ) / Duct Filament Ripstop Phillps Allen D Cordura Ripstop 31. DIAMOXDEXAMETHASONE Ibuprofen ( ) () 32. 515-517 33. 34. ; 35. 36. 528-542 :(CPR) CPR CPR CPR B/()() / / * / * / * / / / * * / / * * */ */ / */ 37. * HeatStroke 38. 102 39. 528-542 95 35 30 50 90 95 90 40. : 41. MountMcKinley 42. UV Frogwear SPF SPF SPF40 SPF [PABA]Sun-Blockagents 43. PABA Oxygen Tension1. 44. 2. ( 45. 528-542 AMSHAPEHACE 46. AcetazolamideDiamox AMS HAPEnikedipine 47. Decadron Step Voltage 48. blunt tranma 19-21 49. GiardiasisGiardia Lamblia Tinidazole QuinacrineMetronidazole ( 50. Moleskin 19-3a Second Skin Dr. Xcholl"s Molefoam OK 19-3b 51. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 52. 19 1999/2/1 19 528-549 Mountaineering-the Freedom of the Hills, 6th ed.: 19. First Aid, pp.447-463, 1997. Don Graydon and Kurt Hanson ed., The Mountaineers, Seattle. 529 19-1 .().. * *.. . * ****. * ** 530 heat stroke sun stroke heat stroke sun stroke 533 535 12 536 listlessness restlessness 53. 538 19 529 19-1 tick-introduced illness Tick Babesiosis Lyme disease Relapsing fever 3-18 5-7 Tularemia Rocky Mountain spotted fever Q fever Tick-borne-hemorrhagic fever Scrub typhus 54. Malaria mefloquine doxycyclinehttp://www.cdc.gov.tw/travel/travel.htm http://www.vnh.org/Malaria/Malaria.htmlFilariasis Dengue fever Yellow fever Japanese encephalitis Sandfly Leischmaniasis Triatomine American trypanosomiasis Chagas" diseaseTsetse fly African trypanosomiasis sleeping sickness 531 535-537 55. 1. MP Ward, JS Milledge and JB West: High Altitude Medicine and Physiology, 3rded., 2000, Arnold, London.2. TE Dietz: The High Altitude Medicine Guide, http://www.high-altitude-medicine.com/ .535 oxygen tension tension tension 535 Acute Mountain Sickness Acetazolamide (Diamox) 56. 100 18 12-16535 536 Cheyne Stokes acetazolamideDiamox, 125mg 57. 536-537 AMSHACEHAPEacute mountain sickness AMSAMS high altitude cerebral edema HACE HACE AMShigh altitude pulmonary edema HAPE HACE AMS HAPE AMS HACE HAPE AMSHAPEHACE 1991 The Lake LouiseConsensus? AMS 1. 2. 3. 4. ? HACE , 1. AMS 2. AMS ? HAPE 1. 2. 3. 4. 58. 1. 2. 3. 20 4. 90 HACE HAPE HACE HAPE 34 2001, Feb-MarAMS AMS GOLDEN RULE0.ItisOK toget altitudeillness.It isnotOK to die from it.GOLDEN RULEI.Any illness at altitudeis altitudeillness until proven otherwise.GOLDEN RULEII.Neverascendwith symptoms ofAMS. AMS GOLDEN RULE III.If you are gettingworse,godown atonce. " " 59. GOLDENRULEIV.Never leavesomeone with AMS alone. AMS AMS AMS AMS HAPEHAPE HAPE 110 30 AMSHAPE HACE AMS HAPE HAPE HAPE3000m 300mAcetazolamideDiamox AMS HACE HAPE 60. 125mg250mg 24 AMSAcetazolamide --G-6-PD deficiencyNifedipine dexamethasoneDecadron, Dexan HACE AMS 18 AMS ASMS 544