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T H E L U X U R Y L I F E S T Y L E A U T U M N 2 0 0 9

COVER.indd Sec4:7COVER.indd Sec4:7 19/10/09 16:44:4519/10/09 16:44:45

Emirates.indd Sec1:12Emirates.indd Sec1:12 15/10/09 09:53:3515/10/09 09:53:35

Emirates.indd Sec1:13Emirates.indd Sec1:13 15/10/09 09:53:3815/10/09 09:53:38

AlBari DPS AD.indd Sec1:2AlBari DPS AD.indd Sec1:2 14/10/09 15:08:0614/10/09 15:08:06

AlBari DPS AD.indd Sec1:3AlBari DPS AD.indd Sec1:3 14/10/09 15:08:1014/10/09 15:08:10

Benetti Yachts DPS AD.indd 2Benetti Yachts DPS AD.indd 2 14/10/09 15:09:2214/10/09 15:09:22

Benetti Yachts DPS AD.indd 3Benetti Yachts DPS AD.indd 3 14/10/09 15:09:2514/10/09 15:09:25

Harry Winston.indd 2Harry Winston.indd 2 15/10/09 09:53:0515/10/09 09:53:05

Harry Winston.indd 3Harry Winston.indd 3 15/10/09 09:53:0815/10/09 09:53:08

EDGEWORTH_AD2.indd 20EDGEWORTH_AD2.indd 20 14/10/09 15:48:0614/10/09 15:48:06

EDGEWORTH_AD2.indd 21EDGEWORTH_AD2.indd 21 14/10/09 15:48:1014/10/09 15:48:10

United Charter.indd 2United Charter.indd 2 14/10/09 15:56:0814/10/09 15:56:08

United Charter.indd 3United Charter.indd 3 14/10/09 15:56:1614/10/09 15:56:16

CONTENTSFashion & Luxe

30 Back in Black

65 Property

104 A Sparkling Return

127 Top 10

CONTENTS_sep09 16/10/2009 14:33 Page 12

CLASSIC JUNIOR CARS

SMALL CARS, GREAT TIMES!

fi nd a reseller : m

.yon, France

For more information, to place an order or www.blanc-chateau.coPhotos by Jean-Daniel LorieuxThe BMW logo, brand name and model name are properties of BMW AG and used under licenceBlanc-Chateau sarl, RCS 481 731 818 L

Car presented: BMW 328 Collectors Car, scale 6/10, petrol engine 170 cm3, Chamonix white body with brown leather upholstery, hydraulic drum brakes.

Blanc Chateua Ad.indd 1Blanc Chateua Ad.indd 1 15/10/09 08:36:3915/10/09 08:36:39

46 Guardians of the Desert

58 Brave New World

98 Walking on Sunshine

114 Legend of the Pearl

CONTENTSPeople

CONTENTS_sep09 16/10/2009 14:34 Page 14

And Beyond Ad.indd 1And Beyond Ad.indd 1 15/10/09 08:48:3415/10/09 08:48:34

28 36 Hours in Monaco

52 Urban Retreat

108 Venice of the North

CONTENTSTravel

CONTENTS_sep09 16/10/2009 14:34 Page 16

AlJaber AD.indd 1AlJaber AD.indd 1 15/10/09 09:44:2115/10/09 09:44:21

CONTENTSFeatures

41 Champions for Sale

70 Saddle Up

84 Two of a Kind

95 All Change at the Exchange

118 Heavenly Hideaways

CONTENTS_sep09 16/10/2009 14:34 Page 18

VOLKSWAGEN AD.indd 1VOLKSWAGEN AD.indd 1 14/10/09 15:57:3014/10/09 15:57:30

VELING DPS AD.indd 2VELING DPS AD.indd 2 14/10/09 15:56:5514/10/09 15:56:55

VELING DPS AD.indd 3VELING DPS AD.indd 3 14/10/09 15:57:0014/10/09 15:57:00

When I began working in publishing, I quickly found that my interest layin the world of luxury, and it still fascinates me every daythe powerof objects, the passion of craftsmen, and the progress that is made everyday by some of the smartest businesspeople in the world. In this issue, which weve devoted to a look at tangible luxury, we were able to go in-

side some storied luxury institutions. The house of Herms has been a benchmark for high

quality craftsmanship for more than 150 years, and we spent several days between New

York and Paris getting to know the company from the ground up.

We also spoke with a man who has devoted his life to promoting the

ultimate luxury heirloomthe vintage watch. Osvaldo Patrizzi has

been a fixture in the watch world for more than 50 years, and just

after the first anniversary of his brand new venture, Patrizzi and

Co., we sat down with him and his partner to get an inside look the

auction businessbut ended up exploring the true emotional con-

nection he has to the watches he encounters instead.

As many in the luxury world know, the best way to preserve the

products we love is to sell themto create a market for and an in-

terest in the work that we do so that no matter the climate, no mat-

ter the place, no matter the person, the object retains its value. It is

the common thread in the work of almost all of our subjects, from

Mohammed Zaal, who has brought his familys vision of luxury li-

ving to life, to Hamad al-Ghanem, whose passion for his salukis and his falcons is keeping

these ancient hunting arts not just alive but thriving. We were inspired by Geoffrey Rus-

sell selling thoroughbred horses to the international racing royalty, and by Alistair Cal-

lender, who has designed an eco-friendly yacht that is the must-have boat of the

futurebecause whether your goods are old or new, there is always a market for quality.

Remember as you flip through our pages and as you move through the worldwhile you

may not be able to take it with you, theres something to be said for enjoying the best of

whats around while were here.

Kate Winick, Editor-in-Chief

The Editors Note

T H O U S A N D C L U B

ED NOTE_sep09 16/10/2009 11:58 Page 22

ASTON MARTIN AD:10jan 15/10/09 09:52 Page 1

Rebecca GoozeeRebecca Goozee is currently a contribu-

tor for 100thousand Club. She is also an

Associate Editor of Business Management

US, Next Generation Oil & Gas US and

MENA Infrastructure. She enjoys writing

about fashion, travel and photography.

Natalie BrandweinerThough Natalie began her career as a

business writer, interviewing executives

from a variety of industries, and still con-

tributes to several business magazines,

her understanding of the needs and de-

sires of high-profile people give her

unique insight into creating maps, lists,

and feature stories that will grab her

readers attention.

Sydney CannonHer fleeting feet and studies of Philoso-

phy have taken Sydney around the world.

The Los Angeles native now combines her

wanderlust, passion for all things luxe,

and love for literature to contribute to

100thousand Club.

Norimichi InoguchiNorimichi is a skilled photographer who

focuses on images using movement and

water. He is intrigued by the interaction

of water and fashion, and incorporates

his eye for movement into unique still-

lifes. He holds a BFA in photography and

was first in his class at the International

Center of Photography.

Josh Sailor After working in production for the better

part of his professional career, Josh even-

tually caved into his passion for photog-

raphy, and hasnt looked back since.

Based in New York, his portfolio is as di-

verse as his experiences, and he creates

fabulous shots of people, installations,

and beautiful places around the world.

Matt ButtellMatts interests in the jet set lifestyle,

fashion, gadgets and style meld perfectly

with his other writings as a business jour-

nalist, which also help to offer a different

persepective to his work. Having con-

tributed to 100thousand Club before, his

extensive and varied ournalistic experi-

ence are a welcome return.

Contributors

CONTRIBUTORS_aug09 16/10/2009 12:00 Page 24

Taj Air.indd 1Taj Air.indd 1 16/10/09 09:07:4616/10/09 09:07:46

Editorial/ExecutiveChairman/Publisher SPENCER GREEN

Director of Projects HARLAN DAVIS

Creative Director ANDREW HOBSON

Editor-in-Chief KATE WINICK

Associate Editor NATALIE BRANDWEINER

Online Editor JANA GRUNE

Assistant to the Editor SVETANA ARAPOVA

Design Director JAMES WEST

Senior Designers ZE BRAZIL, SARAH WILMOTT

Contributing Writers

REBECCA GOOZEE, DIANA MILNE, MARIE

SHIELDS, HUW THOMAS, BEN THOMPSON

Contributing Photographers

JP GREENWOOD, NORIMICHI INOGUCHI,

JOSH SAILOR

Designers

MICHAEL HALL, CRYSTAL MATHER, CLIFF

NEWMAN, LIVIO BONDI, CATHERINE WILSON

Information

Advertising, Marketing, andClient ServicesT: +44 117.921.4000

Senior Vice President MAX CLIFFORD

Account Executives ANTHONY MATTHEWS,

NATASHA OGDEN, FLORA KATSOURIS,

REUBEN ALOISI

Finance Director JAMIE CANTILLON

HR and Personnel Manager OLIVIA REEVES

Production Manager HANNAH DUFFIE

Production Coordinators LAUREN HEAL,

RENATA OKRAJNI

Circulation Manager BEN KELLY

Subscription Enquiries

T: +44 117.921.4000

www.100thousandclub.com

General Enquiries

info@100thousandclub.com

Letters to the Editor

letters@100thousandclub.com

PrinterWorkbrands Ltd. Ferodo House, Willway Street, Bristol

BS3 4BG, United Kingdom.

T: +44 (0) 117 9669189. E: info@workbrands.co.uk.

www.workbrands.co.uk

100 Thousand Club

(Vol. 2, Issue 3, Q3 2009) is published four times a year

by GDS Publishing.

All rights reserved. GDS Publishing, Ltd.

Queen Square House, 18-21 Queen Square, Bristol,

BS1 4NH, UK.

Legal Information

The advertising and articles appearing within this

publication reflect the opinions and attitudes of their

respective authors and not necessarily those of the

publisher or editors. We are not to be held accountable

for unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or

photographs. All material within this magazine is 2009

100Thousand Club.

Head Office

GDS International

Queen Square House, 18-21 Queen Square, Bristol,

BS1 4NH, UK.

T: +44 117 921 4000. F: +44 117 926 7444.

E: info@gdsinternational.com

CREDITS_oct09 16/10/2009 11:59 Page 26

Souteby's Portugal_AD.indd 1Souteby's Portugal_AD.indd 1 14/10/09 15:54:5714/10/09 15:54:57

After pounding the streets, its time to head

back to the Metropole and spend some time re-

laxing in your suite before heading out to the

Columbus Monaco for some excellent martinis

and the signature cocktail, named Grace, out

on the terrace overlooking the Mediterranean

Fontvieille harbour. Alternatively, if you want

to spot the A list, hit JimmyZ Bar for a couple.

Boasting its very own philharmonic or-

chestra and ballet company, both of which

stage regular performances throughout the

year at the ultra-modern Grimaldi Forum and

the Monte Carlo Opera House, its time to

take in some culture before dinner. And while

there are many spots in Monte Carlo to dine

on some delicious delicacies, including Alain

Ducasses Louise XIV restaurant, located just

off the lobby of the Hotel de Paris, which has

three Michelin stars and 600,000 bottles in

Arriving at Nice Cote DAzur Airport its

now time to board your helicopter transfer

to Monaco. With the journey taking just six

minutes, theres not much to do apart from

sit back, enjoy the journey and take in the

stunning views of Monte Carlo from the air.

Transferred to the luxurious Hotel Metropole

by limousine, enjoy a chilled bottle of Bol-

linger and some lunch on the terrace whilst

your luggage is unpacked for you.

Widely regarded as the international

capital of the world for luxury, a trip to

Monaco wouldnt be complete without some

shopping. After some relaxation why not

check out the famous Golden Circle, which

stands at the centre of the town and features

elegant boutiques and prestigious labels, al-

ternatively the narrow streets of the Old Town

display typical souvenirs. If you are after

some jewellery head to the Place du Casino

to fi nd Cartier, Chopard, Van Cleef Arpels

and Bulgari.

A synonym for luxury and a playground for the international elite, Monaco is a glittering gem lying on the French Cote dAzur, just a few miles from the Italian border. The narrow ribbon of coastline backed by the Alpes-Maritimes foothills creates a natural amphitheatre overlooking the deep blue sea, the perfect spot for a little glamour and a lot of gambling.

36

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Day One

36 Hours Monaco.indd 2836 Hours Monaco.indd 28 16/10/09 13:27:3616/10/09 13:27:36

offers an unforgettable day getaway and a

gourmet lunch at a restaurant of your choosing.

Former Commander of knights, Le Chteau du

Domaine St Martin is a particular favourite as

it stands among the olive trees, perched on the

Vence Hills. The table is prestigious, and the

cave offers the best wines of Provence.

When you arrive back in Monaco its

time to visit the spa for some pampering. Les

Thermes Marins is one of the best spas in the

principality, with over 6600 square metres on

four levels dedicated to well-being, including

37 treatment cabins, most with a sea view,

one Turkish bath, two saunas and two indoor

pools. All treatments are fantastic, but a

particular favourite is the exceptional Monte

Carlo Diamond combo; its blissfully rejuve-

nating and uses diamond powder and rose oil

to exfoliate and soften the skin.

As the sun sinks lower in the sky a trip to

Monaco wouldnt be complete without yachts.

Whether you decide to charter a yacht for

sunset, stroll along the harbour or sip some

champagne while soaking up the views its

got to be done.

Finally, after a jam-packed day, why not

have dinner at the Hotel Metropoles main

restaurant, the Joel Rubachon. Its absolutely

divine, offering a sophisticated and accessi-

ble menu with a Mediterranean fl avour. The

discovery menu is a delicious 10-course

tasting menu featuring caviar, foie gras,

clams and quail.

Then, depart just as easily as you arrived,

by helicopter to Nice Cote DAzur airport and

on to your fi nal destination. A whirlwind tour

of one of the most glamorous destinations in

the world.

the wine cellar and is. Likewise, Le Vistamar

serves up mouth-watering seafood plates and

magnifi cent views.

Next up is a trip to the legendary Casino

de Monte-Carlo to gamble the night away. In-

augurated in 1863, this is the fi rst of all the

great casinos and its array of table games the

most complete and prestigious, with a gam-

bling style unique throughout the world. The

Summer Casino is also a great destination and

a favourite of the high rollers with the gaming

tables facing the sea at the tip of the Sporting

Monte-Carlo peninsula.

After a lazy breakfast in your suite, its time

to be whisked away by helicopter to one of the

best restaurants in Provence. Heli Air Monaco

36

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Day Two

36 Hours Monaco.indd 2936 Hours Monaco.indd 29 16/10/09 13:30:5416/10/09 13:30:54

BACKINBLACK

PRODUCTS_SEP09 16/10/2009 13:04 Page 30

Mens jewellery is at its best when its strong, stylish and

polished to a shine. David Yurman and John Hardy have

maintained excellent mens collections for years, and

some of their most popular pieces are always done in

classic black and silver.

From left to right:

Mens Naga Siler Link Large bracelet and Raja Silver

Extra-Large bracelet, and Mens Macan Silver Band Ring.

John Hardy. Visit www.johnhardy.com or 888.838.3022.

Black Scarab Ring, 3-Sided Chevron Pave Ring, Rectan-

gle Pave Ring, and 3-Sided Carved Inlay Chevron Ring.

David Yurman. Available at www.davidyurman.com or

877.908.1177.

PRODUCTS_SEP09 16/10/2009 13:05 Page 31

BACKINBLACK

PRODUCTS_SEP09 16/10/2009 13:07 Page 32

Just some of our favourite things whether its an accent

piece, or the main event, from a major-label or an up-

and-comer, you cant go wrong with sleek, black acces-

sories on your person, or on your dresser.

From left to right:

Fragrance. Tom Ford. Visit www.tomford.com. Cufflinks.

Jan Leslie. Available at www.janleslie.net. 212.679.5337.

Sunglasses. Bulgari. Available at www.bulgari.com.

800.285.4274. Button Cufflinks. Rotenier. Available at

www.robinrotenier.com. 212.768.1117.

PRODUCTS_SEP09 16/10/2009 13:08 Page 33

BACKINBLACK

The latest from the clever folks at Research In Motion,

the Curve 8250, known as the Blackberry Gemini, is a

radical new design with dedicated media buttons and a

clear, dynamic interface. If youre not already a Black-

berry addict, this will be the device that converts you.

Blackberry Curve 8250. Blackberry. Available at

www.tmobile.com. 800.866.2453.

PRODUCTS_SEP09 16/10/2009 13:08 Page 34

PRODUCTS_SEP09 16/10/2009 13:08 Page 35

BACKINBLACK

Barker Black was founded as the modern alternative to

mens shoes and accessories. With their sleek design and

time-tested construction (handmade since 1880), and the

subtle details like the crowned skull and crossbones logo

adorning this pair of classic monk straps, they offer the

finest in subversive sophistication.

Euston Monk Strap Shoes. Barker Black. Available at

www.barkerblack.com. 212.966.2166

PRODUCTS_SEP09 16/10/2009 13:09 Page 36

PRODUCTS_SEP09 16/10/2009 13:09 Page 37

BACKINBLACK

For the ultimate resource for all things inhalable, the ven-

erable firm of Davidoff is our destination of choice. Pair

S.T. Duponts classic lighter with the stylish case of your

choice to impress any lucky soul with whom you choose

to share your sticks.

Ligne Two Lighter. S.T. Dupont. Available at www.david-

offmadison.com or 212.751.9060.

PRODUCTS_SEP09 16/10/2009 13:10 Page 38

We dont believe in leather jackets from fey high-fashion

brands its the opposite of what a motorcycle jacket is

all about. For maximum style, durability and authenticity,

we go to Belstaff, making great-looking technical outer-

wear since 1924.

Original 50 Jacket. Belstaff. Available at

www.belstaff.com. info@belstaff.com.

PRODUCTS_SEP09 16/10/2009 13:10 Page 39

BACKINBLACK

PRODUCTS_SEP09 16/10/2009 13:11 Page 40

A. Lange & Shne, originally founded in 1845 by Adolf

Lange in Glashtte, has survived two world wars and

countless fads to see Adolfs great grandson reopen the

company in 1990, and bring back the quality of the orig-

inal Lange pocket watches. All parts, movements and

tools that the watchmakers use are made in their factory,

making it a true classic German luxury watch.

Left, Grand Saxonia Automatik. Right, Little Lange 1

Moonphase Soiree. A Langhe& Sohne.

Visit www.alange-soehne.com.

PRODUCTS_SEP09 16/10/2009 13:11 Page 41

42 100 Thousand Club

Keeneland.indd Sec1:42Keeneland.indd Sec1:42 16/10/09 13:34:2616/10/09 13:34:26

Every September, the horseracing world gathers

in Lexington Kentucky for two of the most im-

portant weeks of the year, the Keeneland Racing

September Yearling Sale. Although this may not

be the kind of big-hat and mint-julep event most

civilians associate with the sport of horse racing,

this is in a way a more important event because this is the moment

when the future of the sport, the latest crop of thoroughbred racers, is

distributed around the world.

Geoffrey Russell, Director of Sales, is entering his 13th season at

Keeneland after years in the horse world, and his authority on thor-

oughbred sales is unparalleled. Raised in Ireland, he arrived in the

United States in 1982 for a summer internship, and never left. Its

my job and my hobby, he says of the horses hes sold to the tune of

US$2.5 billion over the course of his eight-year tenure. With the down

economy nevertheless a factor, interest in this particular sale remains

high. Keeneland has remained the top name in the fi eld and sold more

champions and stakes winners than any of their competitors, making

this an attractive business venture year after year for many investors.

Some horses sell very well and recoup it, like Fusaichi Pegasus, who

was a Derby winner, says Russel. Another being the 2006 Belmont

winner, Jazil.

Theres no mistake that theres a huge business component to it,

but a lot of people do it for enjoyment in their retirement. Its very fam-

ily-oriented, they can go to the races as a group, its great for families

to get together. Its also major business. Weve sold horses for as much

as US$13 million [Seattle Dancer, sold for US$13.1 in 1985, a record

that still stands], so its very strong. Some people are just commercial

breeders and they breed horses as their livelihood.

Both these types gather together on the grounds of Keeneland to

experience the excitement of the sale. We have a very beautiful plant,

over 1000 acres of parkland and 46 barns for the horses to be shown out

of. When the sale starts, the atmosphere is electric and the excitement

fantastic. The night before a sale we have a party for our consigners and

our buyers, and we like to tie it into our community this year its a

Taste of Kentucky, to help them feel what its all about, says Russell,

whose Southern drawl belies his Emerald Isle roots. Keeneland is the

leader in the world, so in that regard Im at the top of where I can be.

The auctioneers welcome 800 people at a time into the sales pa-

vilion, as well as each of the horses, one by one, brought from a show

ring in the back to a sales ring in the front, as an announcer reads out

their names and lines. Despite all the advantages in auction technol-

ogy across the industry, this sale remains very much the same as it

ever has. Theres a live streaming of the sale, but its all done on site.

You can phone in to your agent, but its not like buying Barry Bonds

baseball, theyre living and breathing things, so you have to come

in and inspect them, be sure the horse refl ects what youre looking

for. At Sothebys its either a Monet or its not a Nonetmaybe its a

Manet! he jokes.

The town of Lexington transforms for the event, from the sleepy

center of the horse-breeding world to an international mecca. What

makes Keeneland one of the leaders is because were based here. There

are four major sales companies in North America, as well as one in

Ireland, England, France and Australia; its a global business. We ship

these horses to the four corners of the world. The majority of our horses

are from Lexington, and people come to buy what we have. They con-

duct all their auctions here four times a year and each time is a major

production. Entries close on May 1st and then physical evaluations

begin on the majority of the horses to be sold (2700 of the 5100 for sale

this year). We go all through North America, as well as seeing some in

Europe, and by the end of July we put together the catalog. In October

we conduct racing, its the highest average purses in North America,

and then in November we sell mares. Our catalogs are graded based on

pedigree; the better pedigrees tend to sell early, the ones that we feel

have strong conformational attributes.

Our sales attract buyers from all over America, probably 75 per-

cent of our gross is domestic; the other being from over 48 countries

around the world. We sell at all levels so we have a constant fl ow of

people coming and going with the high end horses selling fi rst, and then

so on through 16 days this year. The fi rst two days well sell about 200

a day and then 400 a day after that.

They also draw in a strong fl ow of visitors from around the world,

particularly from other horse-loving regions. There is no mistake, the

thoroughbred horse is traced back to the three foundation Arabians,

and the great love for horse racing in the Middle East makes this a major

draw for many of the royal families, many of whom come in person to

43100 Thousand Club

Keeneland.indd Sec1:43Keeneland.indd Sec1:43 16/10/09 13:34:3716/10/09 13:34:37

44 100 Thousand Club

participate in the sale. One of the major buyers and investors in the

industry are the Maktoum family from Dubai. We have a lot of involve-

ment and theyve all purchased at one time or another. It varies if they

come in themselves: Sheikh Mohammed comes on a regular basis, King

Abdullah from Saudi Arabia sends advisors, so it varies based on the

principals themselves. Theyre very involved in all of this.

While he wont reveal too many details in the short few days

before the auction starts, there are a few in particular that are on

many peoples short lists: Stormcats second to last crop is up for

sale. Its his last full crop and we think theyll be very well received.

Were also doing the dispersal of Overbrook Farm, who have built up

a wonderful band of brood mares that are very exciting. Its an exciting

time, a nerve-racking time for our consignors, this is their livelihood

its nerve racking but we do look forward to it.

We have a very beautiful plant, over 1000 acres of

parkland and 46 barns for the horses to be shown out of

As a livelihood, its certainly something of a nerve-racking choice

these days, but Russell says his veteran colleagues remain more or

less unshaken. There is tax depreciation allowed on horses, and

the farm bill increased some incentive with the stimulus package.

You can still earn an awful lot of money racing in North America or

around the world, but its an expensive hobby. Besides, he laughs,

its not in the nature of those in the horse world to be depressed

about the economy. Were an optimistic industry, everyone who

buys a horse thinks theyre going to win the Kentucky Derby. No one

buys hoping to just break even. So we tend to be optimistic in our

outlook, but were of course smart enough to realize that its a very

different time.

Despite the current economy, purchasing a Keeneland horse tends

to be a favorable investment over time, because of the high stud fees

many highly pedigreed horses make after their purse-winning years

are over. Of course, you cant put a price on the feeling of participat-

ing in events like the Derby or the Triple Crown or even the sale itself

from the seat of an owner, watching the action up close, with your own

heart on the line, bookended by glamourous social events. I think

the thrill of it all, of winning in the auction ring or on the track, that

most people dont know until they experience it, Russell says. We

see that a lot and its a great encouragement for people who are at that

level. They enjoy winning.

Keeneland.indd Sec1:44Keeneland.indd Sec1:44 16/10/09 13:34:4216/10/09 13:34:42

L-3 COMMUNICATIONS AD.indd 1L-3 COMMUNICATIONS AD.indd 1 14/10/09 15:50:0814/10/09 15:50:08

Hamad Ghanem Shaheen Al-Ghanem is at

his most comfortable camping deep in the

Arabian desert surrounded by his family

and his beloved pack of Saluki dogs. We

meet however, in very different surround-

ings; in the grounds of an English country

manor surrounded not by sand by rolling

green parkland. Its unfamiliar territory for Al-Ghanem but he is there

to promote a cause that very close to his heart; the preservation and her-

itage of the Arabian hunting dogs, the Saluki. Al-Ghanem has dedicated

his life to educating people on the role that the Saluki once played and

in many cases still play in desert life. He is determined not to let an

animal that has played so big a part in Arabic heritage is forgotten. He

is Director of the Arabian Saluki Centre in the UAE capital of Abu

Dhabi, which promotes the preservation of the pedigree saluki dog and

provides owners with advice on everything from feeding to breeding. But

his work doesnt stop in the UAE. He has attracted international acclaim

for the steps he has taken to preserve the breed, and regularly appears

at global events promoting Arab culture, including the UKs annual Fal-

100 Thousand Club46

They say a dog is a mans best friend.

But one Emirati has made preserving

his favourite breed a lifes mission.

Diana Milne meets Hamad Ghanem

Shaheen Al-Ghanem, Director of the

Arabian Saluki Centre.

Guardiansof the

desert

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100 Thousand Club48

conry Festival, taking place an hour from London, where I meet him.

He may be far from home but Ghanems determination to preserve tra-

ditional Arabic heritage, as so much of his country becomes modernised

beyond recognition, is abundantly clear. I asked him to explain to me

what keeps his passion for the canine cause alive.

Can you describe why it is so important to educate people about

the role that Salukis play in desert life?

Salukis are great hunting dogs. They hunt gazelle all year round and

rabbits. Nowadays hunting has become a sport but in the past to be able

to hunt in the desert was key to survival. Its important not to forget the

old days because it is such an important part of our culture. We teach

children from generation to generation not to forget this very important

part of our past and we teach them about it through exhibitions, story-

books and in the media.

Why are you personally so passionate about breeding salukis.

What is it about this particular creature that you feel so strongly

about?

I have been around Salukis since I was born and they have existed

for many generations before me. We need to continue to keep them alive

and in good health and good hand. That is why we are working to pre-

serve the pure Saluki line and not mixing them with other species. Nowa-

days people are interested in breeding dogs because they want to win

prizes. But they dont necessarily look at the quality of the dog. I am

looking for quality not quantity and I want to keep this part of our hunt-

ing culture alive.

Are Salukis still an important part of Emirati family life?.

Yes, when a family has a Saluki they share it with every member of

the family. So if you have a puppy you will share it with your brothers and

sisters and your cousins. They bring a lot of happiness into a family. And

when people have say three or four Saluki puppies they give them to

their neighbours and it helps them to form relationships between other

people. Relationships between families are sometimes built on the fact

that they have exchanged Salukis or horses. People give Salukis as gifts,

just as they might give falcons or horses. It is not a money issue it is

about love and care.

What are the unique characteristics of a Saluki dog compared

to other breeds?

The Saluki is part of the Arabian hound family that is able to live in

the desert environment where it is very hot with less food. They dont eat

that much. In fact they eat whatever they can ran. Salukis are very loyal

HAMED GHAMEN_oct09 16/10/2009 11:57 Page 48

100 Thousand Club 49

and they have a good temper. They care for their master and they are al-

ways around him, sharing his food, and living beside him. We like to host

visitors in the desert and the Saluki will lead the visitors to us in the

desert. If for instance you are camping in the desert and somebody passes

by he will hear the saluki and now there are others close by. He will go

towards them and come to us and we will show him our hospitality.

Can you tell me about the activities you are involved in the UAE

to raise awareness and understanding about the Saluki?

We established in 2001, the Arabian Saluki Center in Abu Dhabi to

preserve the pure breed and as a place where owners could register their

Salukis. Through the centre we educate people on how to look after them,

their health, advice on feeding and breeding and we encourage people

to protect and respect this animal that has been living among our peo-

ple for over 12,000 years.

You have a close working relationship with the ruling family of

the UAE. Can you describe their interest in the Saluki breed?

We support them when they hunt and we breed (salukis) for them.

Our Salukis will join them on their trips and there will also be camels,

falcons and horses on the trips. Arabian culture is all about hospitality

but also looking after the camels, the horses, the falcons and the salukis

is an important part of their culture.

The UAE has become very modernised. Are you concerned at

all that its cultural heritage will be lost as a result?

I dont think so. The government is taking care to keep the tradition

and culture alive by organising plenty of exhibitions and visiting schools

to teach children about Arab culture. They are keen for children to un-

derstand how their ancestors lived. We want people to know about us

and we want our people to know about their own heritage and culture.

So, are there are a lot of expatriates in the UAE involved in the

centre as well as local people?

Yes, there are people who lived a long time in Dubai and Abu Dhabi

and, and in different countries in the Gulf, in Emirates and during that

time they keep Salukis then when they go home they take the Saluki

back with them. The centre also covers other parts of the GCC and we

are even registering the number of pure line Salukis as far away as Jor-

dan, Syria and Yemen.

As our interview draws to a close an excited group of school children

approaches Al-Ghanems exhibition stand at the Falconry Festival keen

to hear about what makes his particular breed of dog so special. Its a

subject he needs no encouragement to talk about and one he knows he

must pass on to the next generation if his cause is to be continued. n

As part of the cultural heritage of Arabian Hunting, Bedouins

have been breeding Salukis for thousands of years. These

Desert hounds, known for their exceptional stamina, intelli-

gence and loyalty are highly prized by all who own them. The

Arabian Saluki Centre honours the Arab tradition by provid-

ing a professional caring and friendly environment, where

members and their Salukis can experience the latest and state

of art services.

To find out more about the Arabian Saluki Centre, log onto

www.arabiansaluki.ae or email saluki1@emirates.net.ae

HAMED GHAMEN_oct09 16/10/2009 11:57 Page 49

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There is no greater media frenzy than of that surrounding world sporting events, bethey the Olympic Games, the Cricket World Open or the Grand Prix series. In 2010,South Africa is set to host the notoriously hyped World Cup; builders across the re-gion are racing to complete the new stadiums commissioned in time for the open-ing of the games on June 10, 2010, with Soccer City in Johannesburg hosting theopening and closing ceremonies, as well as the final.

URBAN

retreat

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SOUTH AFRICA ED_NEW:31July 16/10/09 13:15 Page 53

100 Thousand Club54

As its cities are preparing in strong stead for the

influx of tourism the games are due to bring,

South Africa is drawing on its previous success

in attracting tourists its breathtaking land-

scapes and richly diverse wildlife are world fa-

mous as a destination. Safaris across the

regions plains, plentiful with wildlife, have brought visitors here from

across the world wanting an authentic African experience trekking

through the lush forests of Tsitsikamma or basking on the un-spoilt

beaches of the Wild Coast. However the World Cup is due to attract a

new type of tourist to its thriving city streets, with Johannesburg, Cape

Town, Durban and Port Elizabeth offering a contemporary, yet authen-

tic experience. The urban nightlife and metropolitan bustle of South

Africas cities hold their own in terms of luxury and entertainment, and

for those with a more fast-paced approach to tourism, the regions urban

retreats have so far been vastly underrated.

Often described as a seaside playground, Cape Towns city bowl

district is fast attracting tourists to the township. It is known for being

one of the most entertaining cities in the world, and only a 10 minute

drive from the waters edge, the bustling metropolitan centre offers an

array of exquisite restaurants, an abundance of high-fashion stores and

endless miles of wine estates to indulge in following a days adventures.

There are a multitude of top-class places to stay, such as The Twelve

Apostles, which offers a personalised approach to hotel accommoda-

tion, and complete with its Sanctuary Spa has been voted the best spa

resort in Africa. Cape Grace and Mount Nelson are other exclusive ho-

tels; and as you would expect in an area thriving with wealth, you are

never more than a stones throw from a hotel of grandeur. But the tourists

found walking the streets of South Africas busiest cities are less inter-

ested in relaxing within the hotel and more about the adventures of the

city the bright lights, busy crowds and trendy bars.

Cape Town, although magnified by its beautiful and cascading

scenery, is often compared to cities such as LA and Milan. Despite its

distance geographically, its fashion district is certainly not lacking in

style. In fact, Cape Town is booming for brands, as many designers are

realising the potential growth to be had on the continent. Often de-

scribed as a label nation, Louis Vuitton has opened up the Mother

store, and design houses such as Escada, Gucci and Armani hold a

strong presence, as do the continents own emerging and well-loved de-

signers, such as Hip Hop, Errol Arendz and Catherine Moore.

However, its that time when the streetlights turn on that Cape Town

really comes out to play. Bursting with culinary delights from all over

the world, the choices of where to eat are endless. The culinary experi-

ence at the One & Only hotel is a guaranteed satisfier both Nobu Mat-

Fans of USA join the people ofSouth Africa to watch the USA vBrazil match, FIFA ConfederationsCup South Africa 2009

SOUTH AFRICA ED_NEW:31July 19/10/09 11:40 Page 54

100 Thousand Club 55

suhisa and Gordon Ramsey have brought their respective Michelin-

starred talents to their first African venues. However, the need for im-

ported chefs from Europe and the US is fast diminishing, and local

South African chefs are now gaining popularity. Chefs such as Garth

Stroebel at the Mount Nelson, Barak Hirschowitz at Tides at the Bay

Hotel, and Graeme Shapiro at The Restaurant are regarded as Cape

Towns best, combining traditional dishes with the exotic new ingredi-

ents of the modern world.

There is also a plethora of lively nightlife options, and deciding where

to enjoy an evenings cocktail is equally as hard. Cape Town is home to

several options where you can wile away the nighttime hours starting,

of course, after your sundowner cocktails, a delightful colonial tradition

that is still going strong all over the country. Caf Caprice is regarded as

being the citys bar of the moment. Located on the waterfront it offers the

perfect setting in which to watch the sun go down, in its cocktail bar or

intimate restaurant. Entertained by resident DJs, the crowd here is a local

one, attracting young professionals and the odd celebrity.

If its a night of music that is desired, Cape Towns air of luxury ex-

tends into its club scene. Rhodes House is a club in which to find

wealthy locals enjoying the entertainment the setting boasts three up-

stairs bars and an opulent VIP lounge to accommodate its frequent

celebrity visits. Hemisphere is another of the citys most sophisticated

and stylish clubs. The contemporary dcor of fiber-optic lighting and a

glass walled VIP area is enjoyed to the sound of retro music, and the lo-

cation provides a 180 view of Table Mountain upon which to enjoy the

dazzling sunrise.

Cape Town is not the only urban scene on the continent. Johannes-

burg is up-and-coming as a city due to its fascinating cultural heritage,

combined with the contemporary attractions enjoyed the world over.

Often referred to as the City of Gold, Jozi, as its called by the locals,

is famous for its championship golf courses. Regarded as one of the best

cities in the world in which to indulge in this much loved sport, Johan-

nesburg has the perfect climate to stroll across the fairways. The courses

themselves are held in great esteem 36 of the top 100 golf courses of

South Africa are located in Johannesburg. The Royal Johannesburg and

Kensington course, listed 12th in the ratings, is a particular favourite

with the locals. Established almost a century ago, the two courses

merged to enlarge the clubs bank account and upgrade both the courses

and the clubhouse. Both fine examples of metropolitan parkland lay-

outs, the course has played host to the Joburg Open since 2007, and is

the only golf club visited by the European Tour where more than one

course is used for a single event.

However, golf is not for everyone, and as a richly diverse city, there

are numerous other activities to enjoy. As befitting the city where gold

was first discovered (by Australian prospector George Harrison in 1886)

wealth seeps through almost every aspect of society, and holiday gam-

bling is enjoyed at the 300 tables located within the citys many casi-

nos. Often compared to Las Vegas, there are few places with such an

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100 Thousand Club 57

extraordinarily high density of casinos to enjoy. Gold Reef City and

Montecasino are located within the city and open 24 hours to accom-

modate those moments when fluttering desires strike.

As with Cape Town, Johannesburg truly comes to life after hours. Its

vast array of restaurants are an array of cuisine to tempt all tastes;

Auberge Michel, an award-winning restaurant, offers an exceptional

seasonal menu of light French dishes and is known as being one of the

most exclusive restaurants in the city.

Durban is a lesser-known city with its own unique appeal. Re-

garded as South Africas beach getaway, the city is credited as being

the most culturally diverse spot of Africa the citys inhabitants cover

almost every cross section of society. Take a walk along the sands or on

the citys streets and expect to find phone-clad executives, teenagers

and surfers, as well as the more traditional sari-clad matrons. It is the

closest seaport to Johannesburg and is notorious for its underwater ac-

tivities; it hosts South Africas only surfing museum, a sport that attracts

enthusiastic tourists to its shores the world over. With a multitude of

restaurants and coffee shops overlooking the small boat harbour, Dur-

ban provides the perfect setting in which to unwind after a day spent

battling the waves, stuck in the office or visiting its cultural art centres.

But despite its scenic beauty and natural attractions, the city is also

known for its nightlife, which is as fast paced as its water-sports. Joe

Kools is a regular hotspot for the locals; and its notorious Sunday night

parties continue well into sunrise. But for something a little more hard-

core, club 330 is regarded as South Africas best place for dance music.

For more than 15 years, magnitudes of DJs across the globe, from Carl

Cox to Josh Wink, have played the biggest tunes in the citys most hap-

pening nightclub, and the scene has exploded into becoming one of the

top10 places in the world to party. Dont be fooled by what appears to

be a traditional beachside town; hidden amidst the surfboards and

trendy bars is a scene similar to that of London and LA.

Without taking away from the regions breathtaking plains and

teeming wildlife, South Africa clearly has more to offer than the tradi-

tionally conceived holidays of safaris and trekking. A trip to South

Africas cities is the perfect way to bask underneath the African sun

and admire the regions culture whilst enjoying a modern, fast-paced

style of life, be it indulging in sumptuous cocktails, relaxing in a tran-

quil spa or dancing until the sun rises across the African skyline.

SOUTH AFRICA ED_NEW:31July 19/10/09 11:41 Page 57

BRAVE

NEW O R L D

ALISTAIR CALLENDER_oct09 16/10/2009 12:01 Page 58

Alistair Callender is opening up the horizonsof luxury yachting

ALISTAIR CALLENDER_oct09 16/10/2009 12:01 Page 59

100 Thousand Club60

When a lifelong sailor and lover of boats

applies their talents to the creation of

boats, its no surprise that the result em-

bodies the kind of creative thinking and

innate rightness of being that exists only

in truly important technology. As the

yacht business faces tough times and the world faces tough questions

about our use of fuel, hes taken his innovative mind and applied it to

where these question intersects in the world of yachting and created So-

liloquy, the worlds first green megayacht.

Callenders career on the water began early,

growing up 300 metres from his local sailing club

on the south coast of England. For as long as I

can remember, I have been around boats and the

water. I was four when I first took the helm of my

fathers sailing dinghy. One of his fondest sailing

memories is also one of his earliest, he remi-

nisces; I was sailing down to the mouth of Chich-

ester Harbour with my family in our sailing

dinghy. I couldnt believe the true feeling of ad-

venture landing on this remote and secluded

beach. It was my very own Swallows and Ama-

zons adventure. Apparently I fell asleep on the

anchor on the return journey later that day due

to the incredibly relaxing sound of lapping water

to the bow of the boat it is so therapeutic.

He started seriously considering making his

hobby his career when at 16, he heard a talk

given at his school by Andrew Winch, the world-

renowned super-yacht designer. I knew there

and then it was my ideal career path to take I

have been hooked ever since! He ended up get-

ting valuable work experience at the Andrew

Winch Designs office in London, and began his

formal education at Coventry University. Whilst

only a student, Callender was the only one se-

lected out of 150 others in the course for a six

month professional enhancement placement; in

his case, in Plymouth, United Kingdom, to work

alongside the design team at Princess Yachts In-

ternational. He has since continued his relation-

ship with the company and has several of his

designs for them currently in production. Very

few people are lucky enough to work in an indus-

try they are passionate about, he says, I have

always been determined to be in that minority. He spends his days on

a combination of computer-based CAD modeling work, sketch develop-

ment work and tangible model making. I currently work from home,

which enables me to work far more productively as no time is wasted

commuting. In recent weeks my design day would finish on average at

about two or three in the morning, then up again for the next day of cre-

ating somebodys dream! Long hours, but I thoroughly enjoy it. The per-

sonal sense of satisfaction I get at the end of a project, when I have seen

my design creations completed and in production is unbelievable.

ALISTAIR CALLENDER_oct09 16/10/2009 12:01 Page 60

100 Thousand Club 61

His inspirations for his designs vary widely; he says, I like to try to

find new solutions and innovations with every new project I begin. I

wouldnt like to pin myself into a particular bracket of design style. This

is because each new brief and client will require a new approach, and I

can adapt accordingly, to ensure their personal dreams and desires are

created. In the case of his design for Soliloquy, The Super-Green Su-

peryacht was strongly influenced by the design of the Rotating Tower,

currently under construction in Dubai. The ever-changing forms, and

beautiful aesthetic, emotional connection was my main inspiration.

Something he feels many consumers dont know about the design process

is the holistic manner in which it is approached. To achieve a well re-

solved end solution, every aspect of the brief and objectives have to be

100 percent understood, from the outset, rather than considering things

later into the design process. This is particularly

important if you want to achieve an eco-friendly de-

sign, as with Soliloquy. My generation is passionate

about the planet; fortunately Im also passionate

about superyachts, he says. I have always been in-

spired by one of my sailing heros conservation work,

the late Sir Peter Blake. I could not forgive myself if

I did such a radical superyacht design to push the

future boundaries of yacht design without consider-

ing, in every possible way, the impact that my design

will have on the planet. This was why I then ap-

proached Solar Sailor Holdings Ltd, their technology

seemed to perfectly match my green, rigid-wing de-

sign concept proposal.

The simple explanation of the technology that

powers this 58 metre motor-sailor is that, through the

patented technology of Solar Sailor Holdings Lim-

ited, this eco-luxurious superyacht will be propelled

from wind, solar and hybrid marine power (HMP)

technology. The vessel can be sailed from only the

wind, and/or a combination of her stored electric en-

ergy to run the electric motors. Her speed is com-

petitive to other relative vessels, but with the

capability to be zero-emissions. As Callender sees

it, the advantages of green technology are limitless.

He has followed the development of this technology

for many years, and while researching his rigid-wing

superyacht design, came across Solar Sailor Hold-

ings. It was the perfect application to my supery-

acht design. The slightly greater initial investment

more than makes up in savings thanks to the nu-

merous advantages the technology can bring. These

include lower levels of vibration, minimal noise, reduced running costs,

added resale value, and of course, the invaluable benefit of zero-emis-

sions, compliant technology. A future owner has the opportunity to in-

vest in a superyacht that causes minimal harm to the environment and

has a holistic, carefully managed design approach. That will turn heads

and make a positive statement about them as an owner, in a way no other

vessel can.

Of course, with a top-of-the-line superyacht, its not a boat where

you can skimp on the details. Balancing the desire for luxury with the

need for sustainability was a challenge that depended on creative sourc-

ing and being open to trying new materials and products. Luxury takes

many forms, and research shows it is relative and individual to each of

us. Through the innovative design of numerous features onboard Solilo-

Alistair Callender

ALISTAIR CALLENDER_oct09 16/10/2009 12:01 Page 61

100 Thousand Club62

quy, I hope to exceed peoples expectations, Callender says. The key

criteria to achieve the required sustainable stance, was to ensure all ma-

terials and construction techniques were selected to be supportive of the

brief. More and more firms today specialise in having luxurious and eco-

friendly products. Therefore, this brings the opportunity to carefully se-

lect materials that are both eco-friendly and also

provide its user with the sense of luxury that is ex-

pected on a superyacht.

It was said at the announcement of the projects

that Soliloquy was originally intended for an owner

of an eco-friendly stance, with a non-sailing back-

ground. The vision of the ultimate user of the boat

is not been exclusive to these criteria, but it did ini-

tially form the basis for the brief, he says. These

points are still valid, but do not exclude those out-

side of these areas by any means. In fact, the nu-

merous advantages will appeal to owners of numerous desires. The

radical, architecturally dynamic form, with her ever-evolving super-

structure is truly innovative; something Callender believes will appeal

to numerous potential investors. I wanted to design not only an envi-

ronmentally green superyacht, but have also tried throughout the process

to achieve an innovative design solution that provides an attractive, el-

egant and highly desirable vessel that many people would like to expe-

rience. As to his ultimate buyer, he says, I believe Soliloquy will be

attractive to many high net-worth individuals that see the true potential

for harnessing the 'power of nature'. Those are people that want to be

leaders in state-of-the-art technology, or to help make a difference to the

future of the industry, whilst they can also minimise their carbon foot-

print. Soliloquy might initially be for the client that wants to be the

first to own a radical superyacht design, perhaps simply because they

can, as well as clients who just want to experience something revo-

lutionary, whilst in the knowledge they are being eco-friendly.

At this stage of the project, Callender Designs is still in talks

with different yards and naval architects and has not begun produc-

tion, but interested parties are encouraged to, and have already been,

getting in touch with the designers. They expect these finer details to

be influenced by the client involved. Callender firmly believes that

there are buyers out there information available shows that his-

torically the superyacht industry has been one of the least affected by

I wanted to design not only anenvironmentally green superyacht, butan innovative design solution thatprovides an attractive, elegant andhighly desirable vessel that many peoplewould like to experience

ALISTAIR CALLENDER_oct09 16/10/2009 12:01 Page 62

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the financial climate, where new builds remain buoyant even during

times of recession.

He expects that overall the direction in which he is going with So-

liloquy reflects larger trends in the yachting world that will develop over

the next few years. We shall see more efficient hull design, and inno-

vative methods using renewable energy and propulsion, within the next

five to ten years, he predicts. The green mentality provides an unex-

pected perk for those who worry they might be compromising the im-

pressiveness of their boats: I think the average size of private luxury

yachts will continue to gradually increase in size. Interestingly, the larger

the design Soliloquy becomes, the more beneficial and efficient she be-

comes: thanks to the scale effect of harnessing renewable energy and

also hull length ratios.

Harnessing free, renewable energies, that are plentiful in the areas

of the world that these yacht often frequent, will mean the running costs

will reduce, along with the other benefits that will all will be attractive

to future investors, in turn pushing more yachts in this design direction.

Rigid-wing technology is certainly the future of efficient sailing propul-

sion, he says, and Soliloquy is the first to apply such a rig to be incor-

porated within the superyacht industry.

This recent university graduate plans to spend his immediate future

on the circuit, giving various speeches on Soliloquy the first will be in

Majorca this June, at the fourth annual Future of Superyachts Confer-

ence. Solar Sailor Holdings Ltd. and I will be promoting Soliloquys de-

sign and technical innovations at various yachting events in the coming

months. He also hopes to continue his own sailing career: I have been

passionate about sailing for as long as I can remember, so I would wel-

come the chance to sail to the most remote and idyllic parts of the world.

I hear the Pacific and New Zealand islands are stunning. This, I think,

would be a wonderful place to visit. I am fascinated by visiting new parts

of the globe and I always enjoy experiencing new cultures. Like many

sailors, Callender has a philosophical side to him, which has provided

the finishing touch to this project. After considerable time and thought,

he decided that Soliloquy was ideal name for super-green superyacht.

The syllable sol in Latin means sun, which is one of Soliloquys main

forms of clean and free propulsion, he says. Also, a soliloquy in a

Shakespearean play is when a character divulges his or her innermost

thoughts, and deepest desires and beliefs to the world. In this same vein,

this yacht is the character that will tell the world that you no longer have

to design highly polluting luxurious vessels. n

100 Thousand Club64

ALISTAIR CALLENDER_oct09 16/10/2009 12:01 Page 64

PropertyMiddle East

Al Barari, Dubailand, DubaiSet within the larger portion of Dubailand,

Al Barari has been designated by none other

than His Highness Sheikh Mohammed. A step

away from the commercialism of most projects

found in the region, Al Barari hosts an exotic

and beautiful space with over 80 percent of

plantings and greenery. The design is intended

to refl ect that of the Middle Easts natural

climate, echoing the sands and dunes of the

Arabian Desert and the development is set to

incorporate 300 villas, each encased in infi n-

ity pools, water features, outdoor massage area

and garden terraces, as well as a selection of

apartments and a hotel and spa. Lifestyle will

be a primary focus of the developers; architec-

tural themes will be used in the designing of

the Lifestyle Shopping and Cultural Centre to

both reiterate and magnify the regions tradi-

tion. Unlike most current projects within the

UAE, Al Bararis development has stuck to

schedule and intends to open its fi rst completed

luxury villas during October. The fi rst phases

of 287 villas is surrounded by six botanical

gardens and a 14.6-kilometre walkway, one of

the longest in the world.

New Middle East Property.indd 65New Middle East Property.indd 65 16/10/09 13:17:2716/10/09 13:17:27

EDGEWORTH_AD1.indd 20EDGEWORTH_AD1.indd 20 14/10/09 15:47:3914/10/09 15:47:39

EDGEWORTH_AD1.indd 21EDGEWORTH_AD1.indd 21 14/10/09 15:47:4414/10/09 15:47:44

Burj DubaiOne of the most talked of and media covered de-

velopments in the UAEs property growth, the Burj

Dubai, is fi nally set to end all anticipation and open

toward the end of 2009. The developer, Emaar Prop-

erties, confi rmed in October that the opening will be

kept secret, building further hysteria of the already

world-renowned tower. Currently standing at 800

metres, the fi nal height is yet to be released, but is

already set to be the worlds tallest building.

The individually designed homes within the

tower will be spread across the three-wing plan that

maximises the amount of exterior window area and

natural light, without compromising on the important

element of privacy. Also located within the histori-

cal tower will be exclusive corporate suite offi ces,

the long awaited Armani Hotel, four luxurious pools,

a cigar club, restaurants, a library, an exclusive

residents lounge and 15,000 square feet for fi tness,

providing not just a living space but also a complete

set of social amenities.

The Burj Dubai is set to be one of the most desired

and luxurious addresses within the regions capital.

New Middle East Property.indd Sec1:68New Middle East Property.indd Sec1:68 16/10/09 13:17:3416/10/09 13:17:34

69100 Thousand Club

City of ArabiaThis US$5 billion development may

not host its fi rst phase of opening until the

end of 2011, but with almost 80 percent of

the project already sold, now is the time to

invest. Not only a residential destination,

but also commercial, the City offers an

array of business and administrative of-

fi ces, as well as schools and clinics.

Its vision is to become a prominent

urban centre within the region and is split

into four functions: Mall of Arabia one of

the worlds largest malls, Restless Planet

a US$300 million theme park, Wadi Walk

a waterfront community of apartments

and cafes, and Elite Towers a luxurious

collection of commercial and residential

buildings.

The City will incorporate a total of

8,200 residential components and on com-

pletion will home approximately 40,000

residents within a catchment area contain-

ing 1.87 million people. The vibrant mix of

residential, entertainment and relaxation

make it a vibrant yet peaceful place to live.

The Galleries, Downtown Jebel Ali, DubaiDeveloped buy Limitless, the company responsible for the

real-estate development arm of Dubai World, Downtown Jebel

Ali is set to be a 200 hectacre urban centre. Aimed at building

a community than widening its buyers property portfolio, this

is not simply a residential development. Amidst the townhouses

and apartments of which most are to inhibit swimming pools,

gyms and 24-hour security public spaces will contain parks

and plazas, creating a vibrant and bustling city.

The communities will exist within the developments four

quarters, which together will host 237 residential buildings, set

in the design of congestion-controlled streets. In each quarter

there will be a mix of business and residential units, as well

as shopping and entertainment facilities, creating not only a

residential cluster, but a social hub. The Galleries will also

incorporate a Metro station in each of its quarters to inhibit

the companys greener policies. Construction of the fi rst four of

eight buildings within Zone one is now complete, with the fi nal

completion predicted to be during the fi rst quarter of 2010.

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100 Thousand Club 71

You see them everywhere strolling Park Av-

enue in New York, shopping Knightsbridge in

London, dangling off tanned, toned arms in

Cannes and Monaco, and stuffed under first-

class seats of planes all over the world. But

the Herms Birkin looks particularly at home

in Paris, reflected in the storefronts of the

Rue Faubourg, where in the glass vitrines of

number 24 contain more exotic and sought

after versions of the iconic handbag than anywhere else in the world. This is, in a sense, the

ancestral home of the Birkin bag, an enduring symbol of the luxury, good taste and humor of

one of the worlds most legendary luxury houses.

To witness the birth of one of these bags, however, you must head out of the glamourous city

centre and into the suburbs to one of their ten production sites, all located in France. We enter the

Harmonie workshop, a nondescript commercial building just down the street from Herms head-

quarters in Pantin, on the outskirts of Paris. The waiting area, on this warm summer Friday, is un-

attended as only a French office on a summer Friday can be, and we peek into a vast fabric

warehouse ogling piles of silks and cottons until Kerry Hollinger, head of the small leather goods

collections, beckons us onward. She explains that what weve been looking at is one of the shirt-

ing workshops; Herms ID is also in this building, where the wildest Herms customer dreams

come truehelicopters, boats, motorcycles, anything that can benefit from the touch of Herms

leather is customised here. But what Ive really come to see, she says, is upstairs.

UpThe leading luxury leather houselooks to the future

Saddle

Saddlestitch image by Stephanie Tetu

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100 Thousand Club72

The company, founded in 1837, stayed put in their offices above the

24 rue Faubourg store until 1992, when they were finally forced to ex-

pand; theyve already outgrown what they still call the new offices and

are continuing to buy as many neighbouring buildings as they can. The

official number of 10 sites is not exactly correct there are 10 for bags,

plus small leather goods and luggage, plus a special studio for alligator

bags, but not the wallets, which are made elsewhere, and not the saddles,

which are still made above the store, as they have been for the past 172

years. The degree of specialisation amongst the 250 craftspeople em-

ployed here and elsewhere is staggering; its not just corporate speak

when they say that these are workshops, not factories. Indeed, as is im-

mediately evident when we step out of the elevator, it is the physical and

philosophical opposite of a vast room full of people as interchangeable

as the parts theyre making everything, everyone, is specialised.

In the Harmonie workshop, one is witnessing not just the creation of

the legendary bags, but the creation of something the company considers

just as important as its products a new generation of artisans, trained

since their youth to be the best of the best. France has a leather school from

which Herms takes the top eight students and apprentices them for their

own special training. What they learn isnt as intricate as what we do, the

quality is higher, says Hollinger, and the students spend about 15 months

training in this and other workshops, by the end of which time they will

have made one Birkin and one Kelly bag, which between them include all

the proprietary details for finishing, inside and out. They work under some-

one more experienced and we really emphasise

quality to them over and over.

The apprentices in the workshop we visited

were mainly focused, on this sunny Friday afternoon,

on mastering sewing and finishing, but each step of

the process is as labour-intensive as the next there

are no throwaway tasks. The time it takes to train an

apprentice fully is an investment on which the com-

pany refuses to cut corners: After about five years

theyre paying for themselves; it takes about ten years

to master the whole range, she says, and at the end of

making a bag, the headmaster does the quality control

if theyre not perfect but can be fixed, he will send them

back to the craftsman, if theyre just not up to scratch,

theyre destroyed.

The quality control for an Herms bag begins at the

very earliest stage of the process. The leather buyers

choose their own skins from the tanners, making selec-

tions at each stage of the tanning and finishing processes

theyll cull from the initial batch, then again after the

first tan, then again after the second, and then the buyers

make their final picks. The other skins will go

to other leather-goods houses, but none of them

could be said to be using Herms leather its

that eye for the best that makes their bags what

they are. This, of course refers just to calfskin;

Herms produces many exotic skin bags as well,

and recently made headlines with the news that

they were breeding their own crocodiles in order

to fill the demand for their bags a practice that

makes sense if you consider the disposition of

crocodiles and the difficulty of finding one in the

wild with the unscarred, undamaged skin nec-

essary for a bag. Regardless of the type, the skins

go next to the cutters, who select from the skins

for particular work orders and cut them to spec-

ifications, and the neatly wrapped packages of

cut leather forms arrive in flat plastic bags at the

workshops, packaged with shiny shrink-wrapped

hardware and the details of each work order

everything the assigned craftsman will need to

make the bag from start to finish. We know who

did each of the bags, says Hollinger, its im-

portant for our pride and for our quality. Each Image by Vincent Sahuc

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100 Thousand Club74

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oil just right, she says a detail which many companies machine onto

their leather bags to simulate that same effect. Little bits of bags and

leather, like bright flowers, pepper the workshop here, the handle of a

tool is wrapped in red pebbled leather; there, the rough edge of a metal

hanging rack is padded with a strip of hot pink kidskin. All the leathers are

coloured on site by hand; the first crafstwoman we pass is putting together

the second of a pair of bag handles, all leather inside and out a leather

core wrapped in a finished leather strip. Many are busily chatting and edg-

ing at the same time. The edge finishing is a slow, methodical process; Her-

ms edges are always dyed brown or black, in keeping with their roots as a

saddlery, and just one of the almost imperceptible details that gives their

bags that classic look. Coat after coat of dye is applied, let to dry, and then

the edges are sanded into a perfectly smooth, rounded half-moon edge. In

the hour we were there, there were several women who did nothing but this,

sanding away at edges so perfectly beveled it was impossible for the ca-

sual observer to believe they were shaped by hand, let alone had any ir-

regularities but then again, these are not casual observers, and, says

Hollinger, Its sanded and dyed as many times as it takes to get it

rightthere are layers and layers on it by the end.

Two tables in the back have larger bags gripped in cork-

lined vises; a 40cm camel leather Birkin and a larger Kelly

bag in a dreamy gray-blue color, one of the newest introduc-

tions to the range. Both craftspeople are absorbed in saddle

craftsperson has their own tools, and each sta-

tion reflects the various heights, hands, and

quirks of its owner the apprentices learn over

time to arrange their things just as they will

need them.

We move from table to table, observing

some of the dozens of steps that go into creat-

ing one of these bags. Each edge, for instance,

has a line thats hand-embossed along the

threadline they have to get the pressure and

Images by Quentin Bertoux

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Robert Chavez

stitching the thick layers of the tops of the bags, the signature stitch that

makes wealthy women all over the world confident that they can stuff

their handbags full of the detritus of a life well-lived, throw it into the

backseat or drop it on the floor, and it will still look every pennys worth

as beautiful as the day it came out of its orange box. Done with two nee-

dles, the saddle stich is a very strong and secure stitch, a legacy, as the

name suggests, from Herms roots as a saddlery. A single piece of sturdy

linen thread is covered in beeswax then stitched from both ends, a mat-

ter of practical importance that guarantees if

one stitch breaks, the rest of the thread wont

fall apart, and it can go without being

restitched indefinitely perhaps not a priority

for a modern handbag, but a definite asset on

a horses saddle mid-ride or mid-show. The

craftsperson uses an awl to make a hole, then

deftly switches the awl for the needle and pulls

both ends of the thread through to make a very

tight knot. Hollinger interjects, When they

start stitching, they finish; they dont take

breaks, they dont go out because maybe

after lunch, they wont have the same energy,

the same stitch. And truly, even as I peer over

their shoulders, those in the middle of their

stitching remain in their Zen-like calm chat-

ting with their neighbours, music playing, but

clearly absorbed in the rhythm of their work.

The bags are actually made inside out, the

basis for Herms claim that every inch of their

bags are equally perfect an almost unfath-

omable thing to imagine, except that then a

woman beckons us over to the corner, where a

black bag that would look at home on the shelf

of any boutique sits on her work table. Black

lizard, whispers Hollinger, shes been here

a while. You wouldnt want to start on one of

those! and indeed, as she picks up the bag,

flips the handles to point towards the floor and

Theres always been a feelingof wanting to surprise ourclients, to do new things

Portrait byAlexo Wandael

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begins to firmly, literally, snake them down the sides of the bag, working

the squeaking leather centimeter by centimetre, I would indeed not want

that. Im not even touching the bag and Im breaking out in a nervous

sweat, watching approximately US$15,000 of material, history, and human

labour take such punishment. She smiles, in on the joke, as she pushes out

the first corner of the bags bottom panel with an audible pop! and then

suddenly, three pops! later, there it is, not entirely finished but fully

recognisable in its black, glossy glory, a 30cm Birkin bag. With nary a

break in the action, she reaches for a dull wooden knife and begins work-

ing in the folds on the side of the bag, the end of her labour nearing.

Her neighbour, a very dashing young blonde Frenchman, is finish-

ing work on the hardware, one of the last steps in the process, and re-

quiring skills beyond that of a leatherworker into that of a silversmith

each piece of hardware is nailed through the leather, and then the end

of the nail is cut off and hammered down carefully until its formed into

a nailhead, making it nearly impossible for the hardware to fall off.

Every little bit is hand finished, notes Hollinger almost unnecessarily,

as I am nearly dizzy with the amount of considered detail in every step

of the process, from the interior finishing to the cabinet of linen threads,

in every color they produce plus white, which is not even a white, just

the natural color of the high-quality linen thread. Different amounts of

time are allotted per bag varying according to size and material a basic

Birkin is about 15 hours; 23-24 hours for crocodile, and it only goes up

from there. All the detailing makes the bags costly, not expensive it

adds up to so many hours by so many people, Hollinger says, which of

course raises the inevitable question when discussing Herms handbags

how is it possible that a bag sold at a price which is more than many

people make in a year has waiting lists that are years old? And in a larger

sense, how has this company, which sells only the highest end leather,

silk, china and other luxury goods, managed to not only survive but

thrive and grow in the midst of an economic crisis?

The answer, according to Robert Chavez, CEO of Herms

USA, is their deep understanding of their customer and their

commitment to their product. Herms has never been about

ubiquity or flash, and that understated image is both more

attractive to their key customers and easier to maintain. We want a very

limited distribution for our products, and I think thats key to weather-

ing the storm and weve been really all right so far. Remember last

falls 70 percent off sales? I remember walking into Saks Fifth Avenue,

seeing designer merchandise thrown all over the place, being sold for

nothing. I was horrified. We didnt do it; people came in and said Dont

you have anything on sale? Everything else is on sale. We just said no,

sorry, and it helped us our customers fell off a bit, but its helped us in

the long run to maintain. He also guided them past several other po-

Jean-Francois Jos

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tential pitfalls that befell many of their com-

petitors, rather than falling in to the lure of

ever-larger stores and ever-easier money. I

draw a bit from them, but its more about what

not to do. We have great creative people here

figuring out where we can go, so they come up

with their ideas, and its up to me to see what

we have to avoid. Every time I see some gi-

gantic mega-flagship, I think my god, Im glad

thats not us, and I think right now a lot of them

are regretting things like that.

Herms devotion to their core customers,

a systematic program of communication be-

tween sales associates and regulars that was

implemented at the beginning of Chavezs

tenure, has seen dividends. A lot of the once

a year shoppers, who come in to buy that one tie, that one bracelet, they

dropped off significantly this year, but our regulars stayed with us. There

was some pulling back, which the staff saw, but for the most part theyre

still here. And, he says, their commitment is not just to moving prod-

uct, but to truly understanding and making their customers happy when

they enter a store. Theres always been a feeling of wanting to surprise

our clients, thats a word we use a lot around here. Theres always been

an effort to do new things. However, that surprise never comes at the

cost of the key elements that are the signature of the brand. I think peo-

ple know us for three things. They know us for leather bags, sure, but

also belts, small leather goods, other things, and then of course for silk

as well. The third thing is really our colour. Colour, he explains, is an

icon at Herms, people notice it and appreciate it. I saw the color

kitchen in Lyon, where weve made something like 70,000 colours, and

its just incredible, something people respond to. And of course differ-

ent colours will sell in different places, maybe bright pinks and greens

By Vincent Leroux

HERMES .e$S:31July 16/10/09 13:32 Page 81

in Palm Beach and darker colours in Bostonbut thats what is again

great about the buyers [who hand-select what they want to stock from

each collection for their particular stores and customers]. It also cre-

ates a funny phenomenonif you see something in a store that you

love, you better buy it, because you might not see it again. It even

happens to me, I remember being somewhere and seeing a tie I loved

and then thinking, oh, well, okay, Ill just get it when I get back to

New York, and when I got here theyd sold out of them entirely. And

once theyre gone, theres no more. It may seem counter-intuitive,

but the company has posted increasing profits in the two toughest

quarters since the beginning of the recession, and their competitors

are scrambling to get back to a similarly stable position.

Back in the Harmonie workshop, we inhale the smell of cauter-

ising leather, growing smooth under what looks like the stroke of an

electric fountain pen, our guide remarks that it was only 16 years ago

that they heated the smoothing tools on Bunsen burners sitting on

their tables, requiring yet another layer of ability to gage just how

hot your tool was. Electricity, frankly, seems like a better idea in a

room full of dangling bits of cloth and thread and leather, and the

craftswoman smiles wryly when the Bunsen burners are mentioned.

Progress has not left the workshop untouched, but certain aspects of

this traditional labor necessarily retain an old-fashioned feel. For in-

stance, men usually work on larger bags not out of any ingrained

preference, she explains, but it takes a lot of strength to stitch

through that much leather. In the trunk workshop, theyre making a

hole and then stitching through layers of wood and leather together.

In the small leather goods workshops, the staff is almost entirely fe-

male, where we need smaller fingers to finesse the stitching and turn-

ing. There is no preference given to anything other than the absolute

top level of skill, and that makes hiring difficult enough. You really

need someone who wants to work with their hands, wants to work in a

group, but there are places here to grow. They do advance, but they

have to be very gifted to begin with. Of the few people who have left,

Hollinger says, a lot of those came back its just not possible to do

this level of work anywhere else. The nature of Herms as a family

company and a French company means that constant hiring and fir-

ing is not a habit or even a possibility were more labor were avail-

able, so instead, we have this the best people, using the best

materials, to make the best product they can, every time.

Images by Studio des Fleurs and Patrick McMullan

I think people know us for three things. They know us forleather bags, sure, but also belts, small leather goods, otherthings, and then of course for silk as well. The third thing isreally our colour

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84 100 Thousand Club

Osvaldo Patrizzis New York City showroom,

high over Madison Avenue, is full of empty

display cases. Normally this would be

worrisome, but when your work is auctioning

off some of the rarest and most expensive

watches, clocks and timepieces to the highest

echelon of collectors in the world, a room full

of empty cases is a very good thing.

Two of a Kind

PATRIZZI.indd Sec1:84PATRIZZI.indd Sec1:84 16/10/09 13:48:3516/10/09 13:48:35

85100 Thousand Club

Mr. Patrizzi, chiseled and handsome at 64 as only

an Italian can be, sits in the conference room

with his partner, Philip Poniz (whose business

card reads Expert-in-Chief) against the backdrop

of a window engraved Patrizzi & Co. The watch

expert and chairman of the auction house has

been in the watch business for just over 50 years;

indeed, he created much of the watch business as

we now know it. With the founding of his fi rst auction house, Antiquorum, he is cred-

ited with essentially creating the market for collecting high-end watches, and now,

with Patrizzi & Co., hes taken the experience gained over a lifetime to create a new

concept in auctioneering. Founded in April of 2008, the company is truly collector-

driven it takes advantage of multi-screen technology to allow state-of-the-art virtual

auctions, which for the collector means they can follow multiple threads within the

auction at once, and for the house means moving up to 1,500 pieces per auction, rather

than the limit of four or fi ve hundred that most sites can currently handle. Theyve also

eliminated the buyers commission, a considerable change, since most houses charge

20-25 percent of th