發現 瑞士DISCOVER SWITZERLAND

A P R I L 201 5 D I S COV E RY 41

歐瑞風華

A blend of the historical and the hip reveals Zurich in all its laid-back sophistication

集歷史氛圍及潮流脈動於一身的蘇黎世，以悠閒的姿態 展示其獨有魅力

Swiss charmby BILL HARBY Z

URICH’S huge lakeside town square, Sechseläuten­platz (“spring festival place”), is a popular gather­ing spot, especially since it reopened last year after being laid with handsome paving stones carved from the Alps. In fine weather,

people drag metal chairs to gather in little groups. Some of them cradle a bratwurst in their laps from the nearby Sternen Grill and maybe a local beer from the grocery store. Others sit on the steps in front of the grand Zurich Opera House or at a table at the square’s very modern café.

Sechseläutenplatz is a microcosm of this fasci­nating Swiss city: open, friendly and surrounded by bustling street life, with winding medieval lanes and gothic church spires around the corner and the Alps in the distance. More than just a banking and financial centre, it is filled with history and populated by families of all classes, some who’ve lived here for generations, and others – more than 30 percent – originating from other lands. The local language is Swiss­German, although many people speak some English or French.

Zurich’s charms are revealed in its variety, says the city’s mayor, Corine Mauch. “From the old part of town at the riverside to the new business district in the western part of town, from the quiet woods

The Limmat River flows through Zurich’s Old Town, the historical city centre of medieval beauty

利馬特河緩緩流過 蘇黎世洋溢中世紀美態、 滿載歷史印記的老利馬特

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DISCOVER SWITZERLAND

and parks to the lively nightlife, from high­class restaurants to snack bars and from renowned museums to small avant­garde galleries, you will find here an incredibly broad range of experiences,” she says.

Locals and visitors enjoy the city’s excellent tram and bus systems. A ZurichCard from the local tour­ism office offers unlimited public transportation over a specified number of days, as well as admis­sion to several museums and discounts at shops and attractions all over the vibrant city. “The city is not that big, but it has everything: workplaces, culture, nature,” says tour guide Annamària Pàl Müller, a Hungarian living in Zurich with her Swiss husband and their two children. “It’s an ideal hub.”

Although Zurich is the country’s most expensive city, its shops offer a wide range of unusual goods at various price points. Walking a couple of blocks from the luxury boutiques of the famous Bahnhof­strasse towards the Limmat River leads to the Old Town quarter, where medieval lanes are lined with small, independent boutiques selling handmade leather purses and shoes, glassware, silk scarves, toys, vintage curios and more.

There are also plenty of cafés and restaurants in this serene part of the city. The traditional Zeughauskeller restaurant is in a building that housed weapons in the 15th century. Now it’s a boisterous lunch and dinner spot serving hearty

Swiss dishes; its walls decorated with swords, pikes and a William Tell­style crossbow.

Nearby, in a small courtyard of Fraumünster, the 13th­century church next to the mayor’s office, is a fresco depicting the city’s two patron saints, brother and sister Felix and Regula. The shimmer­ing stained­glass windows made by Marc Chagall and Augusto Giacometti serve as stunning exam­ples of how art and religion can be interwoven in this city.

Old Town extends to the other side of the Lim­mat River, where the cobblestone lanes are lined with more shops, cafés and restaurants, and there are historic spots such as the elegant Zunfthaus zur Zimmerleuten, one of the city’s surviving “guild houses”. It served for hundreds of years as the headquarters of the local carpenters’ guild and is now used as a banquet hall and restaurant. A few blocks away is little Cabaret Voltaire, an early gathering spot dating back to 1916 for provocateurs of the Dada art movement. Today it is a shop where you can buy surreal trinkets and books, and watch strange short films.

Along another curving lane is the city’s grand two­towered 13th­century Grossmünster church. Pàl Müller can tell you (in English, Hungarian, Ger­man or French) the legend of how Felix and Regula, the patron saints, picked up their heads after being beheaded by the Romans and walked to a nearby site to die, and that Grossmünster was subsequently built in that spot in their honour. Its windows are made of stained glass, some composed of brilliantly coloured translucent agate slices, others arranged in the motif of traditional Swiss paper­cut folk art. You can also climb the 187 stairs up one of the towers for a beautiful view. The snowy rooftops in winter are especially sublime. For a completely different panorama during summer, cruise the narrow Limmat on one of the little ferry boats that go up and down the river.

But you’ll be on foot when you explore one of Zurich’s most intriguing neighbourhoods, Zurich West, which spreads out from around the Viadukt. This area was developed in the 19th century as an industrial zone where workers also lived, and by the 1970s it had devolved into a sleazy area of prostitution and drugs. But starting around 2000, as artists and design retailers began moving in, it has developed into the city’s hip quarter. Eclectic Ph

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Dedicated to modern works, Kunsthaus Zürich is the city’s largest art museum

市內規模最大的蘇黎世美術館 專門展出當代的藝術作品

Modern architecture is showcased through buildings such B2 Boutique Hotel + Spa (above left) and the Heidi Weber Museum – Center Le Corbusier (above right), while echoes of the past are found on medieval lanes such as Augustinergasse (below)

B2 Boutique Hotel + Spa酒店及水療中心（左上圖）及Heidi Weber Museum – Center Le Corbusier博物館（右上圖）等建築是現代建築設計的完美示範；老城區的奧古斯丁巷（下圖）等古老巷弄則洋溢著中世紀的懷舊氛圍Check out our

Zurich slideshow for more images of the city’s hot-spots. Download the Discovery iPad app now.請下載《Discovery》雜誌iPad應用程式， 查看更多蘇黎世城中熱點的精彩照片。

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RESTAURANTSKRONENHALLEPatrons come to this eatery, which opened in 1924, as much for its museum­quality art and its atmos­phere as for the traditional cuisine. www.kronenhalle.ch

FISCHER’S FRITZ

In fine weather there are few better places for lunch, dinner or drinks than the garden or the balcony of this seafood­focused restaurant by Lake Zurich. www.fischers-fritz.ch

HAUS HILTLThe world’s oldest existing vegetarian restaurant according to Guinness World Records, this spot offers a huge choice of delicious cuisine. Don’t miss its nearby “butcher shop” specialising in fake meats. www.hiltl.ch

LES HALLESA big, loud, fun place in Zurich West. The food (panini, pasta, tapas, mussels) and drink are fine, but it’s the convivial atmosphere that brings in the regulars. www.les-halles.ch

FRANZOSA Parisian­style café close to the Central train station. It is small, lively and popular, so make reservations for lunch. www.franzos.ch

BARS JULES VERNE PANORAMABAR

Low­key furnishings point your attention to the city panorama below.www.candriancatering.ch/wp_julesverne

THE INTERNATIONALThis hip little spot offers beer­lovers some 50 Swiss beers plus many more from Europe and the United States with an ever­changing selection. www.theinternational.ch

MUSEUMSKUNSTHAUS ZÜRICH

Switzerland’s largest art museum with a notable impressionist collection. www.kunsthaus.ch

boutiques and galleries sit alongside clubs, bars, cafés and restaurants. A favourite summer spot: Frau Gerold’s Garten, a funky outdoor beer gar­den next to the Freitag Flagship Store, where you can buy the popular messenger bags created from colourful recycled materials.

End a day of exploration at the lakeside Zürich­horn park, with its wide lawns, grand trees, ponds and sculptural art scattered throughout the grounds – a calm setting to soak in the city’s beauty.

HOTELSWIDDER HOTEL

Nine historic town houses, some dating to the 14th century, have been transformed into one of Zurich’s finest contemporary properties in the centre of town.www.widderhotel.ch

B2 BOUTIQUE HOTEL + SPASophisticated, understated décor. The spa includes both cavernous baths and a roof­top infinity pool offering an amazing view of the city. www.b2boutiquehotels.com

25 HOURS HOTEL

A cool and colourful 126­room designer hotel in the fashionable Zurich West neighbourhood. www.25hours-hotels.com Ph

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Fischer’s Fritz is a great alfresco

dining spot by Lake Zurich

位於蘇黎世湖畔的Fischer’s

Fritz，是露台用餐的好去處

CATHAY PACIFICZurich: 7 x Weekly

國泰航空

蘇黎世：

每周有七班航機

Zurich’s historic structures have wide-ranging uses (clockwise from above): a castle is now the Swiss National Museum; town houses have become the contemporary Widder Hotel; the 13th-century Grossmünster church continues to serve the faithful

蘇黎世的歷史建築用途廣泛（上圖起順時針方向）：瑞士國家博物館坐落於一座城堡內；Widder Hotel是一家 由古老排屋改建而成的時尚酒店；蘇黎世大教堂至今仍是眾多教徒崇拜的地方

蘇黎世的大型湖畔廣場Sechseläuten­

platz（六鳴節廣場）是市民喜愛的聚腳點。

廣場去年鋪上從阿爾卑斯山鑿取的漂亮新

石磚，重新開幕後遊人如鯽。在風和日麗的

日子，處處可見人們三五成群地坐在金屬

椅子上。有些人享用從附近香腸店Sternen

Grill買來的德國肉腸，或暢飲從雜貨店買

來的地道啤酒，也有人坐在蘇黎世歌劇院

的梯級上閒聊，或在廣場的咖啡店歇腳。

Sechseläutenplatz廣場正是蘇黎世的縮

影。這個怡人的瑞士城市景觀開揚，友善好

客，街上十分熱鬧。這裡不但是銀行及金融

中心，還有豐富的歷史人文底蘊。當地人說

瑞士德語，但不少人能說一點英語或法語。

瑞士的魅力在於包羅萬有。市長Corine

Mauch表示：「從河畔的老城區到西面的新

商業區；恬靜的樹林和公園到喧鬧的夜生

活；高級餐廳到小食店；世界聞名的博物館

以至前衛的小型藝廊，一應俱全。」

當地人及遊客可輕鬆使用城中完善的電

車及巴士系統。遊客只要於當地旅遊辦事

處購買ZurichCard，就可在指定日子內無

限次乘搭公共交通工具、參觀多間博物館，

並於指定商店及景點享折扣優惠。原籍匈牙

利的導遊Annamària Pàl Müller說：「這座

城市麻雀雖小，但五臟俱全。」

蘇黎世雖然是瑞士最高消費的城市，但

遊客總能找到負擔得起的心頭好。繞過著

名班霍夫大街的奢華名品店，來到距離利馬

特河只有數街之隔的中世紀小巷，便遍設

獨立時裝小店及工作室，售賣別致的商品，

包括手製皮革錢包及皮鞋、玻璃製品、絲

巾、自家製時裝、玩具及古玩珍品等。

這個老城區內還有許多咖啡室及餐廳。

歷史悠久的Zeughauskeller餐廳坐落於一

個世紀的兵器庫內，這個午膳及晚餐熱

點，牆上以長劍、長矛及十字弓裝飾。

不遠處還有建於世紀的蘇黎世聖母大

教堂；教堂的小庭院裡有一幅壁畫，主角是

蘇黎世的兄妹聖徒Felix及Regula。大教堂

內由Marc Chagall及Augusto Giacometti製作的彩繪玻璃閃閃生輝，見證著藝術與

宗教在這座城市的緊密關係。

老城區延續至利馬特河的對岸。縱橫交

錯的鵝卵石小巷兩旁，商店、咖啡店及餐廳

林立。這裡有多座歷史遺蹟，包括蘇黎世其

中一個僅存的公會議事廳Zunfthaus zur

Zimmerleuten，目前已改建成宴會廳兼餐

廳。再往前走幾個街口，就是建於年

的Cabaret Voltaire。在當年，這裡是達達

藝術運動先驅們的聚腳點，現在則是一間 專門售賣趣怪飾品和書籍的小店。

在另一條迂迴的小巷內，建於世紀的

雙塔式蘇黎世大教堂高高聳立。導遊Pàl

Müller講述了聖徒兄妹Felix及Regula的傳

奇故事，描述他們被羅馬人斬首後撿起自己

的頭顱離開後死去，後人在兩人殉道的地方

興建蘇黎世大教堂紀念他們。教堂的窗戶

裝上彩繪玻璃，部分更以彩色的半透明瑪

瑙砌成，當中有些是傳統瑞士民間剪紙工藝

的圖案。你可以沿著級樓梯走上塔頂觀

景。在冬季，城中的屋頂鋪滿皚皚白雪，形

成一片醉人景色。夏季時，不妨搭乘小渡輪

沿利馬特河賞景，欣賞另一種韻味的美景。

若要探索城中最引人入勝的蘇黎世西

區，定會選擇徒步觀光。這一區從Viadukt伸延開去，於世紀被發展為工業地帶，

年代則淪為毒品氾濫的紅燈區。但約

於年開始，隨著藝術家及設計零售商

進駐，這裡逐漸發展為城中潮流新區，精

品店及藝廊，與夜店、酒吧、咖啡店及餐廳

毗鄰而立。每年夏季，時尚的露天啤酒庭院

Frau Gerold s Garten成為人氣聚腳點，

旁邊的Freitag旗艦店售賣的環保揹袋則是 備受歡迎的時尚潮物。

暢遊蘇黎世一整天後，最適合到Zürich­

horn公園的湖邊歇腳，享受藍天綠地、樹影

婆娑的美景，為旅程劃上完美句號。

酒店WIDDER HOTEL酒店由九幢歷史悠久的排屋組成，現在已

成為市中心最時尚的頂級物業。

www.widderhotel.ch

B2 BOUTIQUE HOTEL + SPA室內裝潢精緻低調的酒店，設有別具情調的

水療中心，天台的無邊際泳池坐擁美景。

www.b2boutiquehotels.com

25 HOURS HOTEL出自設計師手筆的型格酒店，距蘇黎世西區

的中心地帶只需五分鐘電車車程。

www.25hours-hotels.com

餐廳KRONENHALLE於年開業的高級食府，牆上的名家畫

作與美饌一樣，吸引食客紛至沓來。

www.kronenhalle.ch

FISCHER'S FRITZ位於蘇黎世湖畔的海鮮餐廳，天氣好的時

候，其花園或露台是用餐或小酌的好去處。

www.fischers-fritz.ch

HAUS HILTL名列健力士世界紀錄全球最古老的素食餐

廳，提供琳琅滿目的各式美食。

www.hiltl.ch

LES HALLES餐廳在蘇黎世西區，其歡樂氣氛吸引顧客

再三光顧；提供意式三文治及意粉等菜式。

www.les-halles.ch

FRANZOS毗鄰火車站的巴黎風格咖啡店，店面小巧但

客似雲來，想在此享用午餐記得及早預約。

www.franzos.ch

酒吧JULES VERNE PANORAMABAR室內的裝潢低調簡約，讓顧客專注欣賞 城市的環迴美景。

candriancatering.ch/wp_julesverne

THE INTERNATIONAL這間時尚的小酒館為啤酒迷搜羅逾款 瑞士啤酒，亦供應來自歐洲及美國的佳釀。

www.theinternational.ch

博物館╱美術館蘇黎世美術館全瑞士規模最大的美術館，展出大量印象

派傑作，令人目不暇給。

www.kunsthaus.ch

MUSEUM FÜR GESTALTUNG這間全新的設計博物館展出許多與瑞士

實用設計有關的歷史珍藏，令參觀者嘆為

觀止。

www.museum-gestaltung.ch/en

HEIDI WEBER MUSEUM - CENTER LE CORBUSIER博物館坐落於Zürichhorn公園內，展出 瑞士著名設計師Le Corbusier的作品，博物

館的建築也是由他設計。完成翻新工程後

將於今夏重新開幕。

www.centerlecorbusier.com

瑞士國家博物館坐落於古色古香的世紀城堡之中，毗鄰

火車總站。館方透過展品細述瑞士從史前

時代以至現代的歷史及文化進程。

www.nationalmuseum.ch

[ 歐瑞風華 ]

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DISCOVER SWITZERLAND

MUSEUM FÜR GESTALTUNG

A fascinating historical collection of Swiss applied design in a new gallery. www.museum-gestaltung.ch

HEIDI WEBER MUSEUM – CENTER LE CORBUSIER

In Zürichhorn’s beautiful park, a collection of work by the renowned Swiss designer Le Corbusier is displayed in a house he designed. It reopens this summer after renovations. www.centerlecorbusier.com

SWISS NATIONAL MUSEUMHoused in a 19th­century castle next to the main train station (known as HB), with exhibits exploring Swiss history back to ancient times. www.nationalmuseum.ch

Hiltl Shop, part of vegetarian restaurant Haus Hiltl, specialises

in imitation meats

Hiltl Shop是素食餐廳 Haus Hiltl附設的「肉」店，專門售賣各式素肉

A summer cruise on the Limmat River offers unbeatable

sights of Zurich

在夏日搭乘遊船 沿著利馬特河飽覽蘇黎世的迷人景致

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