Upload
ledan
View
221
Download
0
Embed Size (px)
Citation preview
English book translatorsJeongsub Nam 남정섭 Editor, proofreader, translatorAlex D. Johnson ProofreaderWonjeong Kim 김원정 Editor, translatorYoungmi Lee 이영미, Jeongsuk Kim 김정숙, Myeongsook Lee 이명숙, Bichna Kim 김빛나, Donghyun Lee 이동현, Hyunji Choo 추현지 Translators
Korean book authorsJingyu Kim 김진규, Seungwoon Baek 백승운, Hojung Choi 최호중, Hyunjeong Park 박현정, Jung-gu Office of Daegu Metropolitan City 대구광역시 중구청
Published ByThe Yeungnam University Press2014
280 Daehak-Ro, Gyeongsan, Gyeongbuk 712-749, Republic of Korea
First Published31 August 2014
ISBN 978-89-7581-000-0 00000
Copyright ⓒ 2014 by The Yeungnam University Press All Rights ReservedNo Part of this Publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any from or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying,recording or otherwise, without prior permission of the publisher.
Daegu Alleyway History Tour
A Walking Tour Storytelling Guide
Yeungnam University PressYeungnam University PressYeungnam University Press
This translation project started as a graduate course in Fall
2013 at Yeungnam University. I designed and led the course
with the sincere help from Daegu Jung-gu Office, which
provided me and my students with the Korean walking tour
storytelling book, image files, relevant materials, and expert
tour guides. Alex D. Johnson, my colleague in the
Department of English Language and Literature at Yeungnam
University, joined us as a native speaker of English
proofreader.
He actually had walking tours on his own several times to
get a better understanding of the history tour.
The entire twelve chapters of the original Korean
storytelling book tell stories in relation with the second
course, among the total five courses of the Daegu Alleyway
History Tour, which was developed as a city walking tour by
many citizens who love Daegu.
The most important person among them is Ms. Sun-young
Yoon, mayor of Jung-gu Town Office, who had insightfully
envisioned the long and rich history of Daegu and the
multicultural elements in the city, permeated in the buildings
along the alleyways and even in the stones of walls and roads
that cover the alleyways at Jung-gu, which literally means
central town of Daegu.
The second course is the most popular among tourists
because it is crowded with historic sites and cultural
attractions, which are closely connected to the modern history
and culture of Daegu. The second course includes twelve
destinations starting from Dong-san Cheong-la Hill and
ending at the Chinese Residents Association.
I walked the course with my students and read the Korean
storytelling book together; the students translated the Korean
text into English; I compared their English translations with
the original Korean text, corrected their translations, and
sometimes replaced theirs with my own translation; Alex
meticulously proofread the English translation several times;
and I finally proofread and edited the entire chapters.
Through this process, this book has come to light.
I, on behalf of all the students who participated in the
translation and Alex who willingly took efforts in
proofreading it, show my deep gratitude to those who devoted
their time and efforts to developing the alleyways into history
walking tour courses and composed the Korean storytelling
book about the second course.
In addition, I must confess that I owe many thanks to all the
student translators and Alex for their hard work. Finally, I d
like to thank a student translator, Wonjung Kim, for her help
while she was assisting me in editing texts, arranging images,
and changing translated expressions to reflect the suggestions
and corrections of me and Alex many times.
Jeongsub Nam Associate ProfessorEnglish Language and Literature, Yeungnam University April, 7, 2014
PREFACE
•Dong-san Missionary Houses
•A dream of medical mission in a straw-roofed house in Daegu
•My Friend, a beloved Korean song
Dong-san Cheong-la Hill 10·11Chapter
01
•“Long Live Korean Independence!”
The Road for the March 1st Independence
Movement 34·35
Chapter
02
•Wedding of President Chung-hee Park and First Lady Young-soo Yuk
•Why was an artist In-sung Lee obsessed with the persimmon tree?
Gyesan Cathedral 48·49Chapter
03
•A great resistant poet, Sang-hwa Lee
•Sang-don Seo, a patriot of the National Debt Repayment Movement
Sang-don Seo’s house and Sang-hwa Lee’s house 60·61Chapter
04
•A Chinese Feng-Shui expert naturalized in Daegu
Mulberry Street 74·75Chapter
05
•The first protestant church in Daegu spread the Gospel
The First Presbyterian Church of Daegu 84·85Chapter
06
•Why was the Medicine Market open in Daegu?
Yangyeongsi Medicine Market Museum of
Oriental Medicine 96·97
Chapter
07
•The old road to Seoul, used by merchants and scholars
The Yeongnam Great Route 106·107Chapter
08
•Two Gisaengs with the same name two hundred years apart
•The forlorn fate of the Yeongnam First Gate
Jong-ro 114·115Chapter
09
•A woman’s society at Jin alleyway led the National Debt Repayment Movement
•Jeong pediatric clinic at the first two-story western house in Daegu
•Mido tea house, a resting place for elders
Jin alleyway 134·135Chapter
10
•A novelist Won-il Kim’s memories of youth in Daegu
House with a Sunken Courtyard 152·152Chapter
11
•The first generation of Chinese immigrants planted Chinese
architecture in Daegu
Chinese Residents’ Association 160·161Chapter
12
CONTENTS
START
200m
Dong-san Cheong-la Hill The Road for the March 1st Independence Movement
Gyesan Cathedral
100m
160m100m
120m
40m
350m
70m
300m
200mEND
Chinese Residents’ Association
The First Presbyterian Church of Daegu
Yangyeongsi Medicine Market Museum of Oriental Medicine
The Yeongnam Great RouteJong-ro
Jin alleyway
The Yeongnam Great Route
Mulberry Street Sang-don Seo’s house and Sang-hwa Lee’s house
1st (red) line: Banwoldang Station, Gate 18
2nd (green) line: Sinnam (Seomun Market) Station, Gate 5
Eldis Regent Hotel bus stop: 305, 405, 414, 609, 840,
909, 북구2
Maeil Newspaper Company bus stop: 420
Seongmyeong Middle School bus stop: 840
To The First Presbyterian Church of Daegu (대구 제일교회)
START Dong-san Cheong-la Hill The Road for the March 1st
Independence Movement Cyesan Cathedral Sang-dong Seo’s house
and Sang-hwa Lee’s house (Gyesanyega Modern Culture Experience
Center) Mulberry Street (Sa-choong Doo) The First Presbyterian Church
of Daegu The Museum of Oriental Medicine at Yangyeongsi the Medicine
Market The Yeongnam Great Route Jong-ro Jin alleyway Chinese
Residents’ Association (Chinese Elementary School) END
Subway
Bus
Taxi
The second course map
(1.64km, takes about 2 hours)How to Get to Dong-san Cheong-la Hill, the 1st
attraction of the 2nd Course of the Daegu Alleyway
History Tour using public transportation
Dong-san Cheong-la Hill
Chapter 01
Location Introduction
Dong-san (East Hill) is a significant
place in Daegu’s early modern history.
It is the location of the first settlement
of Protestant missionaries,
the backdrop of a popular song of the
times, and the location of historical
events during the independence
movement against the Japanese.
13CChhaapptteerr 11.. Dong-san Cheong-la Hill12 Daegu Alleyway
▲A picture of the missionaries of Daegu and their families.① Chamness ② Adams ③ Henderson ④ Blaire ⑤ Hedburg <from The 100 year History of Dongsan Medical Center>
▲Blair House. It is now a museum of education and history.
On Dong-san stands three missionary houses which are named the
House of Blair, Chamness, and Switzer and they became the
primary base for missionary work in Daegu. The missionary houses
were built from 1906 to 1910, and each house is named after the
missionary who lived there. This was the beginning of Dong-san
Medical Center, currently one of the largest medical hospitals in
Daegu.
❶
❷
❸ ❹
❺
Dong-san (East Hill) Missionary Houses
During the 100th anniversary of Dong-san Medical Center in
1999, the houses were turned into museums. The Switzer House is
a Missionary Museum, the Blair House a museum of Education and
History, and the Chamness House a Museum of Medicine.
●●The Blair House
The Blair House is a two story red brick building that is now an
Education and History Museum. The house is located in the
southern area of Dong-san. The Museum displays materials about
the March 1st Independence Movement in Daegu and the Japanese
Occupation Period. It was designated as the 26th tangible cultural
property of Daegu.
●●The Chamness House
The Chamness House is a two-story red brick building, featuring a
living room, a study and a dining room on the first floor. The
primary residents were the second principal of Keisung School in
1911, R. O. Reiner, and the Missionary Chamness. Since 1948,
14 15Daegu Alleyway CChhaapptteerr 11.. Dong-san Cheong-la Hill
Missionary Moffett, the 7th director of
Dong-san Hospital, lived in the house.
Dr. Moffett still visits the house once a
year.
The Chamness House is now a
Medical museum which houses the
oldest stethoscope in Korea, and
Eastern & Western medical devices of
the 19th and 20th centuries are on
display.
Also, there is an ivory stethoscope and
germiculture tube which are more than
200 years old. At that time medical
branches such as ophthalmology,
obstetrics, nephrology and obstetrics
were of great importance.
●●The Switzer House
The Switzer House was built at the
similar time when the Chamness House
was built. Missionary Switzer wanted to
become close with the people of Daegu.
He brought stones from the destroyed
Daegu City Wall and used them as
foundation stones for his house. He
thought the stones from Daegu City
Wall resemble the people of Daegu.
They were unpolished, unrefined but
humane and reliable.
Switzer took a step further to blending
Asian and Western styles by building
the roof in a Korean traditional style.
She wanted her house to be a symbol of
the combination of East and West.
Due to her intent, the Switzer House is
the only missionary house roofed with
traditional Korean roof tiles. In 1920 the
4th principal of Keisung School, H. H.
Handerson, had lived in the house
before Archibald Campbell, the first
president of Keimyung University,
moved there.
The Switzer House is now the Mission
-ary Museum. Various missionary relics
and old bibles are displayed in the
museum.
▲Chamness House is nowa Museum of Medicine.
▼Missionary Houses arepopular to tourists of theDaegu Alleyway HistoryTour. In the picture, students arelistening to the tourguidance about theMissionary Houses. TheSwitzer House in the pictureis unique because it wasfinished with the brick wallsand roofed with Korean rooftiles. It is now a MissionMuseum.
17CChhaapptteerr 11.. Dong-san Cheong-la Hill16 Daegu Alleyway
●●Mysterious Occurrence
Marking the 100th opening anniversary of Dong-san Medical
Center in 1999, something incredible occurred. Bamboo shoots,
which had been plowed over during the building of the missionary
houses, started to bloom and began to grow after 100 years of being
dormant. The bamboo shoots grew and started to form a thick forest.
●●The Garden of Grace: Cemetery
In front of the missionary houses sits Enu-hye Garden (the Garden
of Grace). This is the location of the first foreigners’ graves in
Daegu. The missionaries with family members who devoted
themselves to carrying out missionary works are buried here. In
Enu-hye garden is the carved phrase in Korean “I have been in love
with them,” which is a heartwarming sight that shows the love of
the missionaries and their families to this land. Switzer, an
unmarried woman, who devoted herself to education and
missionary work, is buried at ‘Eun-hye Garden.’She passed away
due to poor health at the age of 49.
▲The Garden of Grace is the grave yard for the first missionaries of Daegu and theirfamilies.
Drama, Movie set
These days the Missionary Houses on Dong-san have become a
popular tourist spot because the houses were used in famous
Korean movies and dramas. For example, movies such as “Modern
Boy”(2008), “Diary of June”(2005), “Les Formidables”(2006),
and the dramas such as “Hanbando,”“Gaksital,”and “Love Rain”
were filmed at the site. Also, the houses were part of a popular
Korean television program “2 Days and 1 Night”.
At the bottom of the March 1st Independence Movement street
leading to Gyesan Cathedral, you can find a music cafe called “C’
est La Vie,”which was used as a set for the drama “Love Rain”and
it also became a favorite meeting space for the main characters
during the filming. After the drama finished, the drama set was
preserved for tourists and sightseeing.
▲“C’est La Vie”a music cafe. It was used as a set for the TV drama “Love Rain.”
1918 Daegu Alleyway CChhaapptteerr 11.. Dong-san Cheong-la Hill
▲ The Missionary houses have becomefamous since they have been used as a setfor Korean dramas and films thatcontributed to spreading the KoreanWave. The number of foreign visitors isgradually increasing.
▲ The main actor (Geun-sukJang) and actress (Yuna of theGirls’Generation) of the TVdrama “Love Rain.”
▲“Ces’t La Vie”appearing inthe drama “Love Rain.”
▲Chamness House was on the TVShow “2 Days and 1 Night”in 2010.One of the cast of the show, Ho-dongKang, took a tour to Chamness Houseat this episode.
Dong-san Medical Center was established by a
missionary and doctor named Woodbridge
Odlin Johnson (1869-1951). His dream was to
become a medical missionary. In college, he
spent most of his time doing volunteer work. He
was especially impressed with the sermons by a
Reverend Moody during his college years and
decided to devote the rest of his life to medical
missions. It was Daegu city that he chose to
move to after his graduation. Johnson and his
pregnant wife stepped through the South Gate of the Daegu City
Wall to realize their dream of a medical mission on Christmas day
in 1897.
After the arrival, he followed his dream step by step. First, he
bought a thatched-roof house to sow the seeds of the medical
mission. He hung a signboard that read ‘American Pharmacy.’ It
was built on the place where the old building of the First
Presbyterian Church in Daegu was. It is said that they had only sold
medicine before they started to practice medicine. To get prepared
▲Dr. Johnson, theestablisher and thefirst president ofDongsan MedicalCenter.
The first missionary: A dream of a medical mission in a straw-roofed house in Daegu...
became a miracle
21CChhaapptteerr 11.. Dong-san Cheong-la Hill20 Daegu Alleyway
for medical practice, Johnson changed the name of the signboard to
Jaejungwon (house for rescuing people), and it became a small
infirmary. This place is the predecessor of Dong-san Medical
Center where western medicine was first introduced in Daegu.
Johnson and Adams who established the First Presbyterian
Church in Daegu, started to consider moving to ‘Dong-san’ (East
Hill), because ‘Jaejungwon’was a poor environment to live.
‘Jaejungwon’was located inside the 7 meter high walls of the
town and therefore not airy enough. Also, it was narrow and had a
low ceiling, Johnson used to say, “Doctors can't work here without
taking risks with their own health.” The odor and smoke from
private houses were terrible and it is said that the sounds of barking
dogs, laundry bats, and the conducting rituals were also awful.
Johnson and Adams thought Dong-san was a great place for
Jaejungwon, so they bought a western part of Dong-san outside of
the City Wall from the Dalsung Seo family. After that, in 1906
Jaejongwon was moved into the current place which became the
present day Dong-san Medical Center.
Apple Trees
Johnson imported 72 apple trees from America, while conducting
his medical mission, but only the Missouri breed of apple could
survive in Daegu. He gave out apple trees to people around him;
therefore Daegu became a home for apples. The apple trees on the
hill of Dong-san nowadays have grown from the seeds produced by
the originally planted trees. These trees have been designated as the
first protected species of Daegu.
The second generation apple tree of the Johnson’s apple tree
still remains.
There remains an apple tree tottering next to the Switzer House on
Dong-san. It is the second generation apple tree of the Johnson’s
first apple tree in Daegu. It is over 80 years old. Although it stands
enduringly with thin branches, it shows powerful vitality by bearing
fruits during summer.
▲Dongsan was almost empty without any trees before Jaejungwon moved in. After Johnson and Adams bought Dongsan, it changes its entire appearance. <from The 100 year History of Dongsan Medical Center>
▲The second generation apple tree of Johnson’s apple tree. The age of thetree is estimated about 80 years. The third generation tree was grafted andplanted in 2007.
‘Hope for preaching the Gospel’...
able to see the bell tower.
Right behind the apple tree, there is a
short bell tower. It was built to celebrate
the 100th anniversary of Dong-san
Medical Center and to celebrate the
removal of a boundary wall. The bell
tower is made with the pillar and wall
from the old main gate and middle gate
of Dong-san Medical Center. The bell
tower implies the desire for the Gospel
to be spread more widely. The two
pillars which give support to the bell
mean love for patients.
23CChhaapptteerr 11.. Dong-san Cheong-la Hill22 Daegu Alleyway
●● Fictionalized account of the
Missionary Johnson
He came to Daegu on December 25,
1897
“Reverend Moody, now I want to go
my way with my wife, which I decided
a long time ago.”
The 29-year-old, blue eyed man,
Johnson, sailed into Busan harbor in
Korea which was a very different place
for him. Some curiosity and tension
were interchanged in his pregnant
wife’s eyes.
In three days, they arrived in Daegu.
That day was Christmas. Johnson felt it
was a good sign. And his feeling was
right. Soon, his wife delivered a healthy
baby. Johnson held the baby’s hands
and prayed. “Thank God. Give me
strength to do many things for the sick
so that my baby can be proud of me.
But the reality was tough. Wailing
cries continued day after day. Far from
being cured properly, people were only
engrossed in exorcism. Johnson felt an
urgent need to do something for them.
He bought a straw roofed house to set
up his pharmacy. He displayed western
▲ Before opening Jaejoong-won Dr. Johnson started thehospital with the name“American Pharmacy.” It isinteresting that the sign waswritten on a scroll. <fromThe 100 year History ofDongsan Medical Center>
▲Bell tower celebrating the100th anniversary of theopening of Dong-sanMedical Center.
25CChhaapptteerr 11.. Dong-san Cheong-la Hill24 Daegu Alleyway
medicine he had brought from America and hung out a signboard
‘American Pharmacy.’
After that, he installed medical equipment and replaced the
signboard with a new one ‘Jaejung-won’(House for rescuing
people). But he did not get favorable responses from the town's
people. “What is it? I’m afraid now we are going to be possessed
by a western evil spirit?” the people thought.
The infirmary was a horror to everyone in those days. Johnson
turned to people who suffered from Hansen's disease (leprosy). He
himself visited them and cleaned their pus with his bare hands. He
treated them with love. Caring for patients, he studied Korean and
Korean culture whenever time allowed. In the meantime, the
Jaejung-won became famous among people.
“They can even cure leprosy, to say nothing of common
diseases.” After a few days, the hospital was crowded with many
patients who wanted to be treated. “Next patient, come in please.”
Shortly after the call, a young man rushed into the medical office.
“I heard the rumor and came here. It depends on you whether you
cure or kill me.”
He, a leper, wailed while grasping Johnson’s legs. His eyes were
watery. Johnson neglected nobody. He did not care about social
status or the kind of the illness the patients had. People of all status
were equal to him, as a patient who needs his help. It took one year
to treat the leper completely. One day, the leper came to see
Johnson and kneeled down. “I am the notorious criminal Soon-
myung Lee from the South. I committed many crimes but now I
want to be a minister. I will help other people like you, Dr.
Johnson.”
▲A photo of Jaejung-won in December 1899. The house was remodeled from athatched cottage. Since many bystanders crowded around, the center had to make awire fence to keep bystanders away from the operating room. <from The 100 yearHistory of Dongsan Medical Center>
▲ Jajuong-won rebuilt in 1906. The former house was damaged by a typoon in 1905.
27CChhaapptteerr 11.. Dong-san Cheong-la Hill26 Daegu Alleyway
Johnson buckled down to the nursing business for lepers. This
will be the matrix of ‘Daegu Aerak Health Hospital.’ He succeeded
in not only the treatment of leprosy but also caesarean operations in
Daegu for the first time. He was busy examining radiographs and
giving people vaccinations.
Plant apple trees
One sunny day in the fall, Kim’s son who had a cataract operation
a few years ago came hurriedly. “Doctor, doctor! We picked six
apples this year.” The basket was filled with red apples. Johnson
planted apple trees in 1899, when the hospital changed its name to
Jaejung-won. In October, after he came back from a Seoul
missionary banquet, he began to ponder on a possible way to give
some financial support to the citizens in Daegu.
After careful consideration, he finally slapped his lap. “Yes, I can
plant apple trees!” He placed an order of 72 apple seedlings with a
nursery in America. Only the trees of Missourian cultivar
blossomed. People around him tried to dissuade him from planting
apple trees. “Doctor Johnson, there is a lot of work to care for
patients and you have no experience in apple farming.” But he
insisted. “Do you think apples can grow in this soil?”
However, no one could bend his will. He considered apple
farming as highly as doing medical missionary work, and the result
proved that he was right. Daegu turned out to be a perfect place for
growing apple trees due to its hot and humid weather. As time
passed, the apple became a specialty of Daegu.
Johnson was the father of a medical mission as well as the pioneer
of the Daegu apple. He took care of the sick instead of caring for
himself. So he got weaker and weaker during the 15 years he stayed
in Korea.
Johnson said, “Although I have a lot of things to do, it is time to
go back now.”
The day, when he left Daegu, people gathered in the front yard of
the missionary house to see him off.
“Doctor Johnson, Don’t go.”
“Please come back.”
Johnson left Daegu on November 15, 1912 with the people’s
warm cheers.
The apple tree on Dong-san(East Hill) glittered under the late
autumn’s sunshine as if the apple tree was seeing him off.
▲Dr. Johnson operating surgery. He is holding a wooden stick which came out fromthe patient’s body. In those days, people would stick a wooden stick into their throat ifthey had a upset stomach. <from The 100 year History of Dongsan Medical Center>
29CChhaapptteerr 11.. Dong-san Cheong-la Hill28 Daegu Alleyway
“My Friend,” A popular Korean Song
A popular Korean song, “My Friend” was composed by Tae-joon
Park. The setting of the song is Dong-san, also called the Green Ivy
Hill (Cheong-la Hill), which exactly is a part of Dong-san where
green ivy grows.
Born in Daegu, Tae-joon Park was a student at Keisung School
located near the Green Ivy Hill (Cheong-la Hill).
At that time Adams Hall, Macperson Hall of Keisung School and
Dong-san Medical Missionary Center located on the Hill were
covered with thick, green ivy. Today, the area is called
‘Montmartre of Daegu,’ and is still known for its beautiful scenery.
The setting for the song's title originated from a love story based
on Cheong-la Hill. While in school, Tae-joon Park fell in love with
a girl named In-kyung Yu. He roamed restlessly up and down
▲The lyrics of ‘My Friend’ is written on the monument celebrating Tae-joon Park,located on the Green Ivy Hill.
around the hill looking for her. However, he was shy and did not
tell her how he felt and lost his chance at love.
Later, as a music teacher in Masan, South Gyeongsang Province,
he told his love story to his colleague, Eun-sang Lee, a poet. They
became close friends and spent their time together talking about
music, literature, and life. After hearing Park’s love story, Lee
wrote the lyrics, and Park’s song “My Friend” was released
nationwide in 1922.
This song about a shy young man’s unfulfilled romance was so
popular that it spread quickly throughout the country, appealing
especially to the youth. While most songs during the period of
Korea's colonization by Japan were unhappy and melancholy, this
song had a warm and sentimental feel. It was remarkably popular
among the country’s youth and it became a national favorite and is
known as a national song.
In the song’s lyrics there is a lily on Cheong-la Hill, but it is said
that the lily in the song cannot be found at Cheong-la Hill. It
seemed that the lily in the song was the very one he had been
longing for in his heart.
The song “My Friend” was used to create the story of 90 stairs.
Let's look at the first and last parts of the story in which Tae-joon
Park used to go around the hill so as to see his lover.
The 1st stair
Ten days already passed since he saw her, every minute seemed
like a lifetime. Although he got tired from waiting for her, he
consistently aspired to her and missed her, looking up the hill
covered with ivy in vain.
31CChhaapptteerr 11.. Dong-san Cheong-la Hill30 Daegu Alleyway
The 90th stair
On the top stair. However, he did
not accept that all is over. If he
could not see her, he would create
her on his own. It could be a
painting, a poem, and even a song.
Anyway, he never gave up waiting
for her, dreaming that she would
love him someday. He did not care
about how long it took to achieve
his dream.
Now a popular place
for remembering first love
It was revealed that the location of
My Friend was based on Dong-san,
Daegu in 2009. A monument for
this song was built in front of the
Dong-san Missionary House on
June 17, 2009.
‘Dong-san’ now is a place to
remind us of our first love. Since the
placement of the monument it has
attracted a lot of visitors and has
become an increasingly popular
course of the Daegu Alleyway
History Tour run by Jung-gu Office,
Daegu Metropolitan City.
▲A music drama “Tae-joonPark and Cheoug-la Hill”was performed in October2012 at the Hill.
▲An interview with Tae-joon Park in Donga DailyNewspaper on November 7th1961. The title of theinterview is ‘Dr. Tae-joonPark, revive the spirit ofKorea by his music’ and it isabout Park’s memories afterhis retirement from Yon-seiUniversity and his musicincluding his much-lovedsong ‘My Friend.’
33CChhaapptteerr 11.. Dong-san Cheong-la Hill32 Daegu Alleyway
▲Children visiting Dong-san is listening to the explanation of Tae-joon Park and hissong from a tour guide.
The opera “The memory of Cheong-la Hill” which is the
storytelling of Park’s life, music and love was performed as the
opening play of the Daegu International Opera Festival in 2012. In
addition, the musical, “Tae-joon Park and Cheong-la Hill”
produced by the Daegu Cultural Foundation was performed in front
of the monument from October 19 to 26 in 2012.
My Friend
Written by Eun-sang Lee,
composed by Tae-joon Park
1
When lilies bloom
on the hill of green ivy
where the symphony of spring is played
midst the fragrance of the lilies,
I sing a song for you for you.
You are the lily
blooming on the green ivy hill
When you bloom in my heart,
all my sadness fades away.
2
When white birds fly
o’er the evening tide
that rushes to the soft sands of shore.
looking at mountains far away,
I sing for you for you.
You are the white bird
flying o’er the evening tide of my heart!
When you fly in my heart,
all my sadness fades away.
The Road for the March 1st
Independence Movement
Chapter 02
Location Introduction
This road is an important place for a
revolt during the Independence
Movement against the Japanese in
Daegu. It is the place where lots of
fighters for national independence
came and went to avoid the
surveillance of the Japanese police
while preparing for the revolt.
An uphill path with 90 stairs is next
to the fence of the First Presbyterian
Church of Daegu (Jae-il church)
across from Gyesan Cathedral.
The 90 stairs are flanked by
photographs and full descriptions of
Daegu city of the time.
37CChhaapptteerr 22.. The Road for the March 1st Independence Movement36 Daegu Alleyway
March 1st is a national holiday in Korea. Koreans all over the
country know that this day commemorates the March 1st
Independence Movement of 1919. From 1910 to 1945, the Korean
empire was under Japanese military occupation. However, on
March 1, 1919, after nine years of Japanese colonization, 33
activists of the March 1st Independence Movement convened
together and declared their nation’s independence from Japan by
proclaiming a Declaration of Korean Independence in Tapgol Park,
Seoul, after which the Independence Movement spread to the rest
of the country.
●● March 8th, 1919. The road is the secret path for a
revolt.
The March 1st Independence Movement started in Seoul on
March 1, 1919 and spread to the rest of the country like wild fire.
The historic revolt started in Daegu on March 8, 1919. It was also a
market day outside the West Gate in Daegu. Many leaders in Daegu
led the March 1st Independence Movement. They were Gab-seong
Lee, one of the 33 independence activists, who signed the
Declaration of Independence, minister Man-jip Lee, and several
school teachers. Additionally, many high school students had an
integral part in the movement, which is why the March 1st
Independence Movement in Daegu is called “the student
movement”. Moreover, it became one of the reasons why the
movement spread to other cities in North Gyeongsang Province
(aka Gyeongsangbuk-do) and in other provinces.
There was a dense pine forest on Dong-san (East Hill). The forest
was not only an important place to avoid the Japanese police’s
surveillance, but also the shortest connecting road to the West Gate
(Seomun) of the market in which all people would come together
for the movement. The forest doesn’t exist now, but “the 90 steps,”
which are part of the road in the pine forest, still exist.
The following story is about the movement which occurred in
Daegu on March 8, 1919.
●●Unite minds for the country
“There will be a revolt against the control of the Japanese in Seoul
after a few days,” declared Gab-sung Lee seriously. He was one of
the people who signed the Declaration of Independence, and a
young representative of a youth group so that he knew the value of
the March 1st Independence Movement better than anyone else. He
met local leaders living in Daegu such as minister Man-jip Lee of
Nam Seong Jung church (the First Presbyterian Church of Daegu at
present), Tae-ryun Kim who helped missionaries, and many
teachers. Gab-seong Lee conveyed the plan of the independence
movement of Seoul to them and he persuaded them to rise in
protest. Everybody strongly agreed with his suggestion. Everything
The March 1st Independence Movement
39CChhaapptteerr 22.. The Road for the March 1st Independence Movement38 Daegu Alleyway
went smoothly and fast.
Finally, the definite date and place were determined. “It will be at
1 o’clock on March 8. The assembly place will be the entrance of
the West Gate market (At that time, the West Gate market was
located at Dong-san police station square across from the current
textile center). I hope that you will prepare everything perfectly for
that day.” The day for the revolt was a market day. It was a suitable
day to gather a big crowd. After that, Man-jip Lee, Tae-ryun Kim
and Ju-il Hong, a minister of the Cheondoism, took to the streets to
gather people and students for a revolt.
On March 2, Man-jip Lee had received the Declaration of
Independence from Yong-sang Lee who was a student of Yonsei
medical school. Everything was secretly progressing. The
Declaration of Independence was copied in the house of Tae-ryun
Kim. They also made Korean flags in the basement of Adams hall
in Keisung school.
However, an unexpected accident happened. The Japanese police
were tightening their surveillance for the spreading of the
movement. The surveillance was especially strong in Daegu. That’s
why the participants for the movement in Daegu were less than
those in other cities.
A few days before the revolt, on the 4th and 7th, Minister Ju-il
Hong and Teacher Nam-chae Baek were arrested. However, other
people couldn’t give up nor stop. All the people were in a struggle
to the death for the independence of their country.
Students from Keisung, Shinmyung and Daegu schools actively
took part in the movement because the movement was quickly
gaining momentum.▲The March 1st Independence Movement commemoration event, sponsored byJung-gu Office, was held at the Dong-san Green Ivy Hill. One thousand Daegucitizens participated in the event were re-enacting the March First Movement.
41CChhaapptteerr 22.. The Road for the March 1st Independence Movement40 Daegu Alleyway
●●The fateful day, the secret path of Dong-san
The day of March 8 arrived. The weather was clear. It seemed that
heaven had helped everything. Students came out of the schools.
Students from Keisung school changed into Hanbok (traditional
Korean clothes) and then headed for the assembly place disguised
as marketers. Girls from Shinmyung school also headed for the
place pretending to do the washing. Students went straight up
Dong-san hill. This place was fully covered with pine trees, making
the path from the hill to the West Gate market a perfect place to
escape the surveillance of Japanese police. As soon as they came
out from the forest, they could see the place in the distance. People
were flocking from various places.
●●The shouts covered all parts of Daegu.
“Long Live Korean Independence!”
Daegu school students who were supposed to arrive didn’t appear
until noon. The revolt couldn’t commence without them. After 1
o'clock, about 200 students from Daegu school were running up to
the place through the Japanese police’s blockade. At the same time,
students from Dong-san seminary school were coming out.
About 1,000 people gathered in a short time. Most of them were
students. They took to the streets for their country. Tension filled
the atmosphere. There was a stir here and there. At that time, Tae-
ryun Kim started to read “The Declaration of Independence.”
Everybody could feel his profound conviction. His reading of the
Declaration of Independence lit the fuse of the Korean people, and
became a turning point for the success of the movement.
Unfortunately, Tae-ryun Kim could only read up to the 3rd part of
the pledge of the Declaration of Independence before being
restrained by the Japanese police. The Japanese police mercilessly
dragged him out while he was standing on a cart.
But Tae-ryun Kim resisted to the end. “This is a good time for our
country’s independence. Let’s shout to our deaths ‘Long live
Korean Independence, Long live Korean Independence!” Minister
Man-jip Lee stood on the cart, replacing Kim in a flash. By then, a
mass of people tried to take out Korean flags which they had
concealed. The movement, which started in the West Gate market,
finally began showing signs of expansion.
About 1,000 people, as if by common consent holding Korean
flags, marched along with their leaders. The Japanese police
restrained the crowd, but the people’s spirit had been unleashed.
The parade of shouting “Long live Korean Independence!!”
continued for over 1km. The Japanese police continued watching
the parade closely instead of blocking the masses by force.
◀Bum-il Kim, mayor of Daegu,and Sun-young Yoon, head ofJung-gu office, and other publicofficials are walking down the 90stairs.
43CChhaapptteerr 22.. The Road for the March 1st Independence Movement42 Daegu Alleyway
Clamorous shouts for independence
covered all parts of Daegu. Finally, a
potentially explosive confrontation took
place near the Daegu police station. Gun-
toting soldiers on the roof of the police
station were pointing at the demonstrators.
However, they couldn’t open fire. Because
rash fire could also lead to uncontrollable
confusion. The independence demonstration
parade changed the course from the Daegu
police station to Gyeongjung (now Jong-
ro).
A great number of people participated in
the protest including peasants, merchants
and Gisaengs and so on. The Japanese
police were perplexed over the situation. At
last, to avoid more outbreaks, the Japanese
police made a barricade near the Dalseong
county office (currently, it is near Daegu
department store) with military police. The
parades of independence demonstration
went on to the Medicine Market Street and
central police division system.
The Japanese police fired indiscriminately
with guns and wielded swords. Blood-
stained Korean flags fell to the ground.
Nevertheless, shouts toward independence
didn’t die down easily.
◀The house ofAdams, the firstAmericanmissionary inDaegu. On theIndependenceMovement day ofDaegu (8th March),citizens of Daegumade Taegeukgi(the national flag ofKorea) at thebasement of thishouse.
◀An eventcelebrating the 94th
anniversary of theMarch 1st
IndependenceMovement was heldin the Green Ivy Hillon March 1st 2013.
45CChhaapptteerr 22.. The Road for the March 1st Independence Movement44 Daegu Alleyway
Yong-hae Kim, son of Tae-ryun Kim fainted with a severe
beating. Man-jip Lee who was a minister was taken away by the
Japanese police after receiving a severe blow to the head. However,
when he saw a great number of students who were fighting for their
nation’s freedom, a smile came across his face.
●●From that day... under the sentence of imprisonment...
the Independence Movement fanned out in all directions...
The Independence Movement lasted one more day. Citizens
uncaught by the Japanese police caused a revolt. About two
hundred citizens shouted out for Korean independence and waved
the Korean flag. They were brutally dispersed and some of them
were arrested and sent to prison. This incident made the resistance
movement spread to all parts of North Gyeongsang Province.
Although many schools were closed, students formed a secret
organization.
A path and memorial of the
March 1st Independence Movement
An uphill path with 90 stairs is next to
the fence of the First Presbyterian
Church in Daegu (Jae-il Church) across
from Gyesan cathedral.
This path was the shortest way to the
meeting place in the West Gate (Seo-
mun) market.
Nowadays, this path is called March
1st Independence Movement path.
Both sides of 90 stairs have
photographs with descriptions showing
Daegu city of the day.
In those days, this path was overgrown
with pine trees although they are gone
now.
This path played a vital role leading to
the secret passage. A large number of
students participated in the
Independence Movement of their own
free will. Therefore, this movement is
sometimes called a student movement.
For this reason, a memorial honoring
the students was built at Shinmyung
Girls’ Middle & High School in 1972.
A memorial was built in Keisung
school, too.
▲The students and tutors of Daegu Shinmyung School. Jae-in Lee is the person onthe back row first from left. Sun-ae Lee is on the back row third from left. Bong-sunIm is on the front row third from right.
▲ Shinmyung March 1st
Independence Movementmonument celebrates thepatriotism of the students ofShinmyung school.
47CChhaapptteerr 22.. The Road for the March 1st Independence Movement46 Daegu Alleyway
Father led the movement... his son
died from torture...
“Get up early in the morning and raise the
rose of Sharon (the national flower of
Korea) with lots of love every day. The
only way for our nation to survive is Jesus
Christ...”
This is a testament of Tae-ryun Kim who
led the March 8th Independence Movement.
He was born in Namsan-dong in Daegu.
When he was young, he lost his parents
and became an orphan overnight. He
studied Chinese classics by age 20 but he
entered Pyongyang seminary at age 41.
But he dropped out of college and devoted
himself to the independence movement
with Man-jip Lee who was a minister.
Yong-hae, his eldest son who had a
daughter, actively participated in the
movement with his father.
However, the father and the son were
arrested because they took part in the
movement. Yong-hae Kim died from a
severe beating and torture by Japanese
police. He was the first victim of the
independence movement in Daegu.
After releasing, Tae-ryun Kim inscribed
an epitaph before the grave of his son.
Whenever people lamented for the death of his son, he said “It is
natural for a man to dedicate his life to his country.”
He became stubborn. When he was called as a defendant during
the trial, he said “I just tried to get back my land. Why am I a
defendant?” When he was tortured by the Japanese police to pick
out leaders, he never had a say in the matter except saying “God is
behind me.”
After being released, he was troubled with dozens of domiciliary
visits. He established a church in Japan. He also taught the Korean
alphabet and Bible. Accordingly, he would be deported several
times from Japan.
Though some Christian leaders were involved in the pro-Japanese
activities, he refused to pay a visit to a Japanese shrine and kept his
faith. Both Yong-hae and his son were buried in a park for patriotic
martyrs for the country in Sinam-dong, Daegu.
▲The farther Tae-ryun Kim (upperpicture) and his sonYong-hae Kim.
◀March 1st Independence MovementMemorial Monument in front ofAdams Hall at Keisung School.
Gyesan Cathedral
Chapter 03
Location Introduction
Gyesan Cathedral located in Gyesan-
Dong, Jung-gu, Daegu, has been known
for its antique European architecture,
featuring prominent twin towers outside
as well as classical decoration inside.
Gyesan Cathedral, which is more than
100 years old, has been designated as
Historical Place Number 209 for its
historic value. It has been said that a lot
of people inscribed on the stained glass
windows wearing Korean clothes signify
the Saints who suffered martyrdom
under the persecution of the Catholics
during the Joseon Dynasty. Also, it has
been known as the place where the late
Cardinal Suhwan-Kim was ordained as
a priest and the background for the
paintings of a genius painter, In-seong
Lee.
51CChhaapptteerr 33.. Gyesan Cathedral50 Daegu Alleyway
“Groom Mr. Young-soo Yuk and bride Miss Chung-hee Park...”
The late former President Chung-hee Park and his wife Young-
soo Yuk were married at Gyesan Cathedral on December 12, 1950,
during the Korean War. A traditional wedding was a common
practice among people at that time, but Park chose a modern
wedding ceremony as he put greater focus on the efficiency of
every aspect of life.
Some people that attended the ceremony were Daegu Mayor Eok
Huh in charge of officiating the ceremony, Young-gi Kim, his
respected teacher and Jae-cheon Song, who had arranged the
couple's meeting.
Surprisingly, the officiator was confused with their names, calling
the groom ‘Miss Park’ and bride ‘Mr. Yuk,’ which meant he had
switched their titles. The majority of attendants in the ceremony
and even the couple burst into laughter.
▲The scenery of Kyesan Cathedral in the 1950s.
▲The wedding picture of president Jung-hee Park and first ladyYoung-su Yook on December 12, 1950.
◀The inside of Kyesan Cathedral, which is apart of more than 100 years history ofmodern Daegu.
53CChhaapptteerr 33.. Gyesan Cathedral52 Daegu Alleyway
The couple spent their newly-married life living in Daegu. The
following is a fact-based-fictionalized account of Park and Yuk.
During the wedding at Gyesan Cathedral the bride did not look
happy compared to other brides because of her father’s absence
from the ceremony. The groom also became uneasy and stiff after
hearing the news that his father-in-law could not participate in the
event.
Jong-gwan Yuk, his father-in-law, indeed complained about Park
s serving as a soldier because he may be killed at anytime. When
asked if Park could be given permission to get married, Jong-gwan
Yuk said “I’ll never allow my daughter to marry a solider like you.”
Although Park was turned down, he did not give up getting his
father-in-law’s consent to the marriage, firmly saying that he would
never be killed. Despite his effort, Jong-gwan Yuk never gave
consent to their marriage, notifying some people of his absence.
It is known that, Mr. Yuk had five concubines and was very
exasperated as well as stubborn, so the couple had the wedding
with only Park’s mother-in-law and youngest sister-in-law in
attendance.
The bride expected her father to attend the ceremony, and hoped
to get a blessing. Unfortunately, her dream did not come true in the
end. The ceremony proceeded very quickly and afterwards most
attendants scattered in all directions due to the War.
The newly-married couple lived in Samdeok-dong which had
formerly been the location of Dong-in Hotel. Their house featured
three rooms: one for Park, one for Yuk and her mother, and one for
Park s subordinates. From the day after the marriage, Park, a
Lieutenant Colonel, commuted to headquarters everyday.
The bride, on the other hand, took care of her husband, boiling
water for him to wash with every morning, which was typical of a
good wife of the time.
▲The backyard of Gyesan Cathedral where President Jung-hee Park and Young-suYook s wedding reception was held (squared by white lines). The reception was verysmall and only three kinds of food were served: chestnut, jujube, and squid.
55CChhaapptteerr 33.. Gyesan Cathedral54 Daegu Alleyway
Samdeok-dong, Jung-gu, Daegu, President Geun-hye
Park’s birthplace
President Geun-hye Park was born in Samdeok-dong, Jung-gu,
Daegu, where her parents had lived during their newly-wed period.
She was their eldest daughter. Born in 1952, President Park spent
her early childhood living in Daegu for a short time. After that, her
family moved to Busan and then Seoul to follow her father’s work
as he transferred to other cities. Currently, there remains no
evidence of Park’s birthplace because a nine-story building is at the
site now.More importantly, it is Daegu where she started her
political activities. Since the death of her father, Park had remained
out of spotlight for around ten years. However, Park was elected an
assemblywoman for Dalseong-gun, Daegu in April, 1998, and three
more times in the same electoral district. This was the beginning of
her official activity. Therefore, Daegu has been perceived as her
political hometown.
Ever since her presidential inauguration on February 25, 2013, the
number of visitors to the place has increased. Today, her family’s
permanent address is Sangmo-dong 171, Gumi, Kyungbuk, Korea,
where her father was born.
In-sung Lee has been acclaimed as a
gifted artist, who was one of the
greatest artists of Western painting in
Korea during the early 20th century.
Born in 1912, he grew up in a poor
family, so he had to enter school two
years later than his peers. After meeting
a painter named Dong-jin Seo, he began
to learn painting techniques.
In 1929, Lee’s works were selected for
the Joseon Art Exhibition, and
afterwards he was awarded several
prizes. Furthermore, he was appointed
as a recommended writer and judge.
Then, he went to Japan to acquire
artistic skills and relevant knowledge.
After returning to Daegu, he got
married to Ok-soon Kim, a daughter of
the director of North Hill Hospital, but
Why was the artist obsessed with the persimmon tree at
Gyesan Cathedral?
▲A self portrait of In-sung Lee.
▲Residents of Samdeok-dong visited Geun-hye Park’s birthplace, at Samdeok-dongJung-gu, on the Inauguration Day of the 18th president of Korea Geun-hye Park inFebruary 25, 2013.
57CChhaapptteerr 33.. Gyesan Cathedral56 Daegu Alleyway
she died soon after. Lee got married two more times but was not
satisfied with his married life.
On November 4, 1950, when the Korean War was at its height,
Lee became heavily drunk and started an argument with a
policeman. Unfortunately, he was killed by a gun shot at the age of
39.
Lee developed Western Impressionism and Post-Impressionism
into his own style. In addition, he was regarded as a painter who
recovered local lyricism describing the life of local people and local
landscapes. Here is a fact-based-fictionalized account about In-sung
Lee and Gyesan Cathedral.
One day, waking up with a slight headache, he came out to the
front yard and looked up to the sky. The deep-blue sky poured into
his eyes. He went back to his house and came out with a brush,
paper, and paints in his hands, running to East Hill. He seemed to
hear his father s voice. His father would talk to him, “Why on earth
do you want to be a poor artist!”
“I ll never allow you to become a
poor artist!” Nevertheless, his father
could not keep him from becoming a
painter. Despite his father s objection,
In-sung Lee went on painting, feeling
peaceful and dreaming of becoming a
great artist.
Dong-jin Seo, a prominent artist in
Korea those days, led In-sung Lee to the
world of art. After Lee met Dong-jin
Seo, his skills achieved a great deal of
improvement and his work was awarded
the first prize at the World Youth Art
Exhibition. He went to Japan in order to
study with a sponsors help, who highly
praised his talent. Right after getting
back from Japan, he officially began to
work as an artist. He frequently painted
local landscape and modern architecture
: Palgong Mountain, Ap Mountain,
Gyesan Cathedral, and city streets.
Jae-myung Kim, the director of South
Hill Hospital, was one of Lee’s patrons.
His daughter, Ok-soon Kim and In-
sung Lee fell in love and they got
married in June. Gyesan Cathedral was
one of the places where they spent time
together. Lee thought Ok-soon s face
◀ One of themajor works ofIn-sung Lee“GyesanCathedral.” Thiswatercolorpainting presentsthe scenery ofGyesanCathedral and thepersimmon treein the 1930s.
▲ In-sung Lee’s talent wasfamous in Japan too. Hewas on a Japanesenewspaper with a title “In-sung Lee, a young geniuspainter from Korea.”
59CChhaapptteerr 33.. Gyesan Cathedral58 Daegu Alleyway
was as white as the persimmon flowers on the tree at the Cathedral.
The couple spent their newly wed period having a great time and
Lee got his own studio. However, 7 years after they married, Kim
died due to tuberculosis. Since the death of his wife, In-sung Lee
was extremely broken-hearted, suffering from a sort of depression.
So he became an alcoholic, not taking care of himself. He got
married two more times, but he was neither satisfied nor happy.
Lee moved to Seoul and then became an art teacher at a high
school in 1945. On August 15, 1945, Korea finally declared
independence from Japan. Unfortunately, Lee's career
achievements were condemned as pro-Japanese ones. While having
an argument under the influence of alcohol with a policeman, he
was killed by a gun shot.
Although In-sung Lee has now gone, the old persimmon tree is
still at Gyesan Cathedral, cherishing his pure love for Ok-soon
Kim.
“In-sung Lee Tree”
There is an old persimmon tree at Gyesan Cathedral, called “In-
sung Lee Tree.” Since the tree appeared in his famous painting
“Gyesan Cathedral,” it has been called that name, which
symbolizes the love story of In-sung Lee and Ok-soon Kim.
The painting Gyesan Cathedral has been an important work for
research on Korean watercolor paintings. The color and shape of
the painting are the most distinct features. It is an art work using a
naturalized method of western art with Lee’s own style, even
although Korea was influenced by Japanese academism.
Also, In-sung Lee was one of the first people to run an art coffee
shop in Deagu. Today, the place where the coffee shop used to be is
a bakery and an art gallery.
There is a statue located at Duryu Park to mark his respectful
spirit and an awards ceremony called the ‘In-sung Lee Art Award
is held at the park every year.
▲ The house of In-sung Lee s father in law, which used to be the residential sectionof Nam-san clinic.
▶The tree that appears in the paintings of In-sung Lee is called “In-sung Lee Tree.”
Sang-don Seo's house and
Sang-hwa Lee's house
Chapter 04
Location Introduction
This location has two historic
residences and a modern culture
experience center. Sang-don Seo's
house is where the richest man in
Daegu lived while working for the
National Debt Repayment
Movement and Sang-hwa Lee's
house is where the resistance poet
spent the rest of his life.
63CChhaapptteerr 44.. Sang-don Seo's house and Sang-hwa Lee's house62 Daegu Alleyway
A playground for Japanese...resist with a poem...Korea’s great poet, Sang-hwa Lee
Sang-hwa Lee felt frustrated with the fact that he had not done
anything except writing poetry at the loss of his country.
Therefore, he was envious of his brother who had fled to
Manchuria and had been struggling against Japanese imperialism.
He thought he should do something to help his nation in trouble.
This thought kept going round and round in his head under
Japanese oppression.
Whenever he felt anger surging inside him, he used to go to the
nearby field and sing his tragic feelings in poems.
“Will spring come even to the forfeited field?”
Now others’land
Will spring come even to the forfeited field?
I just walk, as in a dream,
Bathing myself in the sun,
Along the paddy-field path
Shaped like parted hair’
Toward where green fields
Adjoin the blue heavens.
…
Soaking myself in the grass-scent,
I walk a day limping
Between green smile and green grief.
Perhaps I’m possessed by the spring spirit,
But now I’m afraid I might be deprived
Of my spring as well as my field.
▲ Sang-hwa Lee
▲The scenery of Suseong Field in the 1960s. The field became the setting forSang-hwa Lee’s poem “Will spring come even to the forfeited field?” in 1926.It is presumed that the scenery of Suseong Field in the 1920s is similar to thatin the 1960s.
- A revision of Jae-mo Lee’s trauslation inModern Korean Poems trauslated into English
65CChhaapptteerr 44.. Sang-don Seo's house and Sang-hwa Lee's house64 Daegu Alleyway
“Will spring come even to the forfeited field?”, which was Sang-
hwa's major work, was published in a magazine called Gae-byeok
(it means the dawn of history) in 1926.
Suseong field is known as the background of this work. Suseong
field includes not only the field but also Suseong lake. His
memorial is near the lake. Sang-hwa joined the anti-Japanese
movement at a young age.
He published Song for the rites of Shilla in 1918. This poem
contains content against the Japanese occupation. He led the March
1st Independence Movement with Man-jip Lee, Tae-ryun Kim and
Young-seo Kim. He held protests with students at Keisung Middle
School and he delivered a Declaration of Independence to the
assembled crowd at the West Gate market.
His creative activities continued. He wrote many poems of
resistance such as To my bedroom, and Will spring come even
to the forfeited land? . Poetry was a powerful tool of resistance
against the Japanese colonizers. After publishing “To my bedroom”
in the first issue of Baek-jo (it means a swan), he went to Tokyo,
Japan. After a year, he came back to Korea.
He was active as a poet and one of the founding members of an
influential literary group, KAPF (Korea Artista Proleta Federatio)
which led the Korean literary world of the time. He was detained by
Japanese police in 1927 because he went hand in hand with a
patriotic group. In 1935, he went to China to meet his brother who
had been fighting for independence from the Japanese. He
discussed secret internal organizations for Korea s independence
with his brother. As soon as he returned to Daegu, he was taken by
the police. He was usually under guard just because he was a
younger brother of Sang-jeong Lee. He got out of prison after two
months of detention and torture.
Gi-man Baek, his old friend, came to see him. Gi-man led the
March 1st Independence Movement with Sang-hwa in Daegu. Gi-
man consoled Sang-hwa who was despondent. He gave up on
management operation at the Gyeongbuk branch office of Chosun
Daily News in 1937. He taught students at Kyonam School
(Currently, it is Dae-ryun High School). He was diagnosed with
stomach cancer and didn t live to see the liberation of Korea; he
died on April 25, 1943. After Sang-hwa died, Gi-man brought out
works that Sang-hwa had written. The first monument for him was
built in Dalseong park. He used different pen names during his
lifetime such as Mu-ryang, Sang-hwa and Baek-a. ▲ Sang-hwa Lee’s old house at Gyesan-dong, Jung-gu. It has been open to citizenssince August 12th 2008.
67CChhaapptteerr 44.. Sang-don Seo's house and Sang-hwa Lee's house66 Daegu Alleyway
Sang-hwa Lee’s house...
Sang-hwa Lee s old house was preserved by a continuing effort
of local citizens. Sang-hwa s old house is at Gyesan-dong 2-ga,
Jung-gu, Daegu.
Sang-hwa stayed here in his later years. Although he wasn t born
in this place, it is very meaningful because he stayed here for the
rest of his life.
It is a wood house that consists of the main building, a detached
house, a yard and a platform for crocks of sauces and condiments.
The persimmon trees in the garden still remain. Whenever Sang-
hwa felt blue, he would walk this yard. This place remains largely
intact owing to the effort of local citizens. When citizens heard this
place was going to be pulled down, they gathered signatures for the
preservation of historic buildings. More than 400,000 citizens took
part in a signature collecting movement and a big donation was
made. A host of celebrities from cultural fields joined this
movement. A great deal of contributions were also collected by
citizens. Finally, Sang-hwa s old house was restored to the original
form and it was opened to
the public on August 12,
2008 because local
citizens spontaneously
joined in this preservation
movement. For these
reasons, this movement is
thought of as a historical
event in local cultural
movements.
●●The richest man in Daegu fuels
the fire behind the National Debt
Repayment Movement.
When we mention “The National Debt
Repayment Movement,” the first man
that comes to mind is Sang-don Seo.
He first set foot in Daegu in 1866. It
was the period of Catholic persecutions.
After that, he began to make a living as
a peddler and a draper from 1871. He
became a very wealthy merchant by
1886. In 1903, he was appointed as an
inspector of North Gyeongsang
Province by the special command of the
government. The inspector’s duty was a
kind of customs officer or a tax
collector. The inspector in the old times
had to pay taxes in advance to the
Sang-don Seo, a patriot of the National Debt Repayment Movement
▲ Sang-don Seo
▲Memorial stones engraved with Sang-hwaLee’s poems at his old house.
69CChhaapptteerr 44.. Sang-don Seo's house and Sang-hwa Lee's house68 Daegu Alleyway
government, then he had to collect taxes from the people. The
inspector’s job was a good position to make lots of money if he
wanted. Because of this, lots of people tried to rely on connections
to get the position, but Sang-don Seo was different from other
inspectors. He gave the excess tax he collected from the people to
the government. He thought that only the government had the right
to get the money. He was a man of integrity.
Taking part in the people’s assembly, managed by the
Independence Club, was a turning point in his life. At that time,
Japan compulsively supplied a loan to Korea. The reason that Japan
supplied this was to strengthen their control of Korea. Korea’s debts
were mounting at a rapid rate. So Korea couldn’t pay off its debt.
Korea didn’t have the ability to pay off the debt incurred by
Japan’s unreasonable loan. Finally, a movement to restore state
power began to occur among the people who couldn't endure
Japan's control of Korea.
On Feb, 16, 1907, Sang-don Seo suggested that people quit
smoking and use the savings to pay back the debt. That was the first
step of the public meeting to pay off the country’s debt. The self
economic activity, which first started in Daegu, spread across the
nation and he was at the center of the movement.
●● This is a story of Sang-don Seo, a patriot of the
National Debt Repayment Movement.
We could also see a similar movement in 1997. Korea was
suffering from a debt crisis during that time. People collected gold
to get out of the crisis. It is meaningful in Korea’s history as an
example of the people’s social voluntary movement for the country.
●●Sang-don Seo: what was he like?
“Please eat breakfast.”
Steaming white rice was prepared. It was an exceptional case.
“What is this?, white rice?, clear the table!! Don’t you know that I
don’t eat white rice?” he scolded severely, as expected.
This was on Oct. 17, his birthday. “Oh, you can eat some white
rice on your birthday.” Sang-don Seo didn’t usually eat white rice.
Upon first impression, people might not recognize him as a wealthy
landlord.
“If I eat and live well alone, I am part of the problem! Open the
storeroom!”
Every spring and autumn, he handed rice to the poor.
He was the first born in a Catholic family. When he was 9 years
old, his father passed away, so he moved to Saebanggol in Daegu
where his maternal parents’ house was located. Even though he was
▲ Sang-don Seo’s house was too modest to be one for the richest man in Daegu.
71CChhaapptteerr 44.. Sang-don Seo's house and Sang-hwa Lee's house70 Daegu Alleyway
young, he was a strong son as well as the head of the household. He
made a living working as an errand boy at a small store and saved
money little by little. When he became 18 years old, he started his
own job as a peddler with the money he saved. Even though he was
a peddler wandering traditional markets, he had strong credibility
with others in the markets. Soon, his business expanded to Busan
and Andong. At the age of 35, he became a wealthy merchant with
many peddlers working for him.
In 1903, Sang-don Seo directed the tax administration at
Gyeongsang Province on special command from the government.
He was working in a public office for about 10 years and he was a
man of high integrity.
“If he was not here, we could get more profit...” Sang-don Seo
was seen as a thorn to petty officials. However, no conspiracy could
dampen his integrity.
He was dreaming to achieve independence from Japan with Yoon-
ran Kim, Gyu-o Jung and Byeong-o Seo. Finally, they saved 500
hwan. Based on this, they came to build Daegu Agricultural
Industrial Bank to strengthen national capital and protect
indigenous commercial supremacy. He provided support as a
shareholder.
On Feb. 16 at a special meeting in Daedong Gwangmun temple,
he proposed to repay the national debt, 13 million hwan. “I’ll
donate 800 hwan here. Let's unite for the country.”
Everybody in the place was very surprised because in those days,
800 hwan was an enormous amount of money that ordinary people
couldn't imagine to have. Soon after, the movement began, it spread
rapidly over the country. Sung-hee Kim, Mun-sang Yu, Young-gun
Oh gathered and established the National Debt Repayment
Supporting Association in Seoul. Similar assemblies were
established in each region of Korea. Many people including
laborers, peasants, women, soldiers, students, merchants and even
children, participated in the movement. In addition, overseas
Koreans sent money to Korea. The more Japan suppressed Korea,
the stronger people's anti-Japanese spirit became.
“We must pay back and restore our state power!” Sang-don Seo’s
will was getting stronger.
In fact, most of those who had concern for the debt repayment and
who tried to help were ordinary citizens. However, high ranking
government officials and the rich's will to participate was not strong
enough. As a result, it was difficult to continue the movement.
“Hey, if you donate just a little money you have, it will be a big
help to the country and will be worthwhile.” Sang-don Seo went
over and pleaded with the rich, but the result was indifference.
Though the public continued to participate in the movement,
Japan issued a ban on the National Debt Repayment Movement.
Japan obstructed the movement in every way possible.
Unfortunately, the National Repayment Movement ended without
fruition. After the movement was finished, he changed his aims to
foster national capability through industrial promotion. He passed
away without attaining his goal on June 30, 1913 (at the age of 64).
73CChhaapptteerr 44.. Sang-don Seo's house and Sang-hwa Lee's house72 Daegu Alleyway
The modest house of Sang-
don Seo
The old house of Sang-don
Seo, located in Gyesan-dong,
Jung-gu, Daegu, is nearby that
of Sang-hwa Lee, a great poet.
Seo's old house standing in an
alley of Daegu downtown
remains aloof from the glamour
of the city. When people see the
house, nobody can imagine he
was the richest man in Daegu;
because it was a modest house.
Modern Culture Experience
Center, Gyesanyega
Gyesanyega, which was open
in April, 2012, was constructed
for the purpose of the
revitalization of the Daegu
Alleyway History Tour. Tourists
can look around traditional
Korean style houses and get lots
of information at this historical
and cultural center.
◀ ‘Modern Culture ExperienceCenter, Gyesanyega (literally meansAntique house of Gyesan-dong)’ wasbuilt near Sang-hwa Lee’s and Sang-don Seo's old houses.
Mulberry Street
Chapter 05
Location Introduction
Mulberry Street is the place where
Sa-choong Doo, a Chinese soldier
and a geographer, settled down.
He was a great soldier who helped
Korea to win wars. He planted
many mulberry trees near where
he lived, and since then the street
was called Mulberry Street. The
Jung-District Office planted
mulberry trees and painted murals
to redesign the sight. Tourists can
visit and imagine the history of
Mulberry Street and the story of
Sa-choong Doo.
77CChhaapptteerr 55.. The Mulberry Tree Street76 Daegu Alleyway
A Chinese Feng-Shui expert Naturalized in Daegu
Sa-chung Doo was a well-known geometric geographer in China,
which was then known as “Ming” (The Ming Dynasty, 1368-1644).
Geometric geographers studied principles not only for making
residential location views but also for finding auspicious locations
for tombs. He first came to Korea, then known as “Joseon”, in
1592, during the “Im-jin War” (Japanese invasion of Korea in
1592). After fighting in several wars, he decided to become
naturalized in Daegu because he felt that his country would soon
collapse.
Sa-chung Doo was the 21th descendant of Bo Doo, known as a
poet of the Tang Dynasty (AD 618-907). Sa-chung Doo often met
with Korean celebrities such as Cheol Jeong, Sung-ryong Ryu,
Hang-bok Lee, and Admiral Sunsin Lee.
This is the tale of Sa-chung Doo who was the best geometric
geographer from Ming. After settling down in Daegu with his two
sons, he longed to return to Ming for the rest of his life.
●●The decision to become a nationalized Joseon citizen
After arriving at the Amnok river which was the border between
Joseon and Ming, he suddenly stopped to say “I would rather be
here in Joseon than become a subordinate to a barbaric emperor of
the Manchurians1).”
He also told General Lin Jin that Ming would not be prosperous
any more so he hoped to live in Joseon for the rest of his life. No
one discouraged him from his intention to become naturalized in
Joseon. He remained in Joseon with his two sons, leaving his wife
alone in Ming. It is said that he was so impressed with Joseon while
in battle that he made this drastic decision. In 1592, he first arrived
in Joseon and later visited there again as a top Feng-Shui advisor to
General Lin Jin, the commander in chief of the Chinese troops and
his brother-in-law as well.
General Lin Jin and Sa-chung Doo became very close to Admiral
Sun-sin Lee, one of the greatest soldiers in Korean history. Admiral
Lee dedicated a poem to Doo as a token of friendship. In return,
Doo searched for a grave site for Admiral Lee after he was killed in
a battle. However, 16 years after Lee was buried, his grave was
moved to another location. The most important aspect is that the
Ming Dynasty had been taken over by the Qing Dynasty2) since
Doo became naturalized. It was just as he foresaw.
1) At that time, the Manchurians had emerged as a great threat to the Ming Dynasty. 2) The last dynasty of China
79CChhaapptteerr 55.. The Mulberry Tree Street78 Daegu Alleyway
●●Settlement in Daegu: a perfect and prosperous location
bringing great luck and fortune
Most of the people in Joseon were very excited about his
naturalization. It was because a distinguished geometric geographer
from Ming was eager to live in Joseon. King Seonjo (1552-1608)3)
treated him with respect, saying “You can live anywhere you
want.” Surprisingly, Sa-chung Doo requested to live in Daegu. The
king felt bewildered because he expected Sa-chung Doo would
want to settle down in Hanyang (Seoul), the capital of Joseon.
“When I came to Daegu, I found it an ideal area which is the
perfect spot I had been dreaming of.” After hearing his statement,
King Seonjo allowed him to live there.
Sa-chung Doo thought that the vital force of Daegu started from
Mt. Biseol, and ran through Mt. Choijeong (now known as Mt.
Dae-deok) till Mt. Ami (now known as Namsan-dong).
Therefore, the nearby area within one thousand steps from Mt.
Ami was thought to be a lucky and prosperous land. That's why he
wanted to live in the central area of Daegu.
Because he was very interested in Daegu, he quickly became
familiar with the area. He strongly believed that Daegu was better
than any other area. After his arrival, he continued exploring the
terrain of the country while looking for good locations for living
and burial. He was involved in deciding on good grave locations for
some dignitaries during his life.
The first place he settled down in Daegu later became the site for
Gyeongsang Gamyoung (Provincial Office), which had been a
political building where governor and prominent chief officers had
formerly held office. As he anticipated, the site for Gyeongsang
Gamyoung was ‘a lucky land,’ generating a lot of money each day.
He built a house and lived the place and later moved to the place
now called Gyesan-dong. Later, Gyesan-dong became known for
not only wealth but also a traffic hub in town. Today, Gyeongsang
Gamyoung park was made to preserve the Gyeongsang Gamyoung
area.
●●Planting Mulberry Trees
After moving to Gyesan-dong, Sa-chung Doo became worried
about the empty field he was given.
What should I do with this land?
Finally, Sa-chung Doo called his two sons.
▲The place where Sa-choong Doo first lived in when he came to Daegu. He said thisplace will bring great fortune. Now the place is changed into Kyunsang Gamyung Park.
3) The 14th king of Joseon
81CChhaapptteerr 55.. The Mulberry Tree Street80 Daegu Alleyway
What do you think about this problem?
Neither of his sons seem to have a solution. As time went by, they
became worried about it.
After a few days, Sa-chung Doo called his sons again and told
them his idea that Clothes are the most difficult problem the
people in Joseon are facing. As you may have already witnessed,
people are almost freezing to death during the winter.
I decided to plant mulberry trees on the land which the king has
given to me. On the mulberry tree, I am going to raise silkworms
by feeding them mulberry leaves and help those who are without
clothing during the winter.
Sa-chung Doo planted mulberry trees and later his family started
weaving silk by hand for a living. That is the reason Gyesan-dong
was called the Mulberry Tree Street.
Sa-chung Doo moved to near Mt. Choijeong (now known as Mt.
Dae-deok), and changed his pen name to Mo-myung, which means
longing for Ming. The area where Doo lived is now called
Daemyeong-dong, which means the wish to return to Ming for the
rest of his life. He was homesick for his mother land but died in
Daegu.
▲A mural painted on a wall at Mulberry Tree Street showing the love story of Sa-choong Doo.
83CChhaapptteerr 55.. The Mulberry Tree Street82 Daegu Alleyway
The love story of Sa-choong Doo and a widow
Between Gyesan Cathedral and the surrounding area has been
called the Mulberry Street. Here is a story about Sa-chung Doo and
a widow who love each other.
One day, while working at a Mulberry tree, he saw a beautiful
woman pounding rice in a mortar and fell in love at first sight. His
son visited the woman and realized she was a widow. Sa-choong
Doo and the widow fell in love and got married.
Although we cannot find the place where the old mulberry trees
and the village used to be, the street is still called the Mulberry
Street. There is a wall painting which represents his love story with
the widow.
Longing for Ming, Mo-myung Shrine established by
descendants
Sa-choong Doo s is buried in Manchon-dong behind Mo-myung
Shrine which was built to commemorate his achievements. Mo-
myung means longing for his country. In the front yard, there is a
stone grave marker with words written by In-soo Lee, a 7th
descendant of Admiral Soon-sin Lee. We can infer that the
descendants of Lee and Doo had a special relationship with each
other for a long time.
▲Mo-myung Shrine is built to celebrate Sa-choong Doo. It is located at Manchon-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu. A poem written by Soon-sin Lee for Sa-choong Doo ishanged on the five pillars of Mo-myung Shirne.
▲ There is the tomb of Sa-choong Doo on the hill behind Mo-myung Shrine. Theplace is known for bringing on energy and prosperity for nation.
The First Presbyterian
Church of Daegu
(Jae-il Church)
Chapter 06
Location Introduction
The First Presbyterian Church of Daegu
(Jae-il church) is where a missionary,
William Baird, spread the gospel and it was
also used as a base for the North
American presbyterian missionaries in
Daegu. It was the first Protestant church in
Daegu and North Gyeongsang province.
The initial location of the church was in the
area of the Medicine Market (
Yangnyeongsi), Namsung Avenue. The
entire church was built in a gothic style and
it has been designated as Daegu Tangible
Cultural Property No. 30.
There is Kyonam (another name for
Yeongnam) YMCA across from the First
Presbyterian Church of Daegu. It is an
historic place where an Independence
Movement organization was established on
September 15, 1918 during the Japanese
colonial period.
86 Daegu Alleyway 87CChhaapptteerr 66.. The First Presbyterian Church of Daegu (Jae-il Church)
I am a church.... Blessed are they
On April, 22, 1893, Minister, William
M. Baird, an ardent missionary,
established the First Presbyterian
Church of Daegu. He arrived at Incheon
on February 1, 1891, and started to
preach in Busan. He moved to Daegu
shortly thereafter.
In January 1896, Minister Baird
purchased land (about 1,380m2) owned
by Won-sik Jung, five straw roofed
houses and one tiled roof house.
After he repaired these houses, he
used these places as his first chapel.
This place was also used as a base for
the North American Presbyterian
missionaries.
After he moved to Seoul in 1896, his
brother in law, James E. Adams, and his
wife took charge of the church
replacing Baird in 1897.
The number of believers was growing so rapidly that a second
church building was built. The construction of this church began in
July 1907 and finished in 1908 as a one-story chapel.
This church had several names such as Nammunan Chapel, Daegu
Eup Church (Daegu Town Church), or Namsungjeong church.
Finally, because of the number of fast growing believers, a third
church building was constructed by Minister Jae-hwa Choi in 1933.
In 1936, Deaconess Ju-yeol Lee and other members of the
congregation donated money to construct a five story bell tower
(about 33m tall).
This church was the biggest one in the region south of the Han
River. During this time, the name of the church was changed from
Namsungjeong Chapel to the First Presbyterian Church of Daegu.
This church is a two story building made with red bricks in a
blended style of Korean and Western architecture. It is Daegu
Tangible Cultural Property Number 30. Currently, this church
building is located at the entrance of the Medicine Market
(Yangnyeongsi) and used as a missionary hall.
The following story of the First Presbyterian Church of Daegu”
is about Missionary William Baird who preached for the first time
in Daegu, Deacon Yu-yeol Lee who contributed her property, and
the first baptized person Ja-myeong Seo.
●●Missionary, William Baird, spreads the gospel!!
“I am a church which guides people on the right path. Blessed is
faithful Baird.”
The farther he walked up the mountain pass, the rougher the
89CChhaapptteerr 66.. The First Presbyterian Church of Daegu (Jae-il Church)88 Daegu Alleyway
mountain was. Nevertheless, many people
still walked up the steep mountain pass.
Baird was greatly surprised because he
heard that the mountain pass called Eight
Man Pass (Paljo-ryeong) was so rough that
people would cross over the pass in tears.
“This is the shortest way to get to Daegu.
That’s why lots of people with heavy
baggage use this pass. Sometimes, it is so
crowded that we may lose our mind.”
Gyeong-jo Seo rambles on about the meaning of the Paljo-ryeong
pass. Although the pass was the shortest, it was really dangerous
because of thieves. At least 8 people needed to travel together to
protect themselves.
“This is a blessing, Saint Peter and Paul also walked around like
this” said Baird. “Yes, Missionary, you are right,” said Seo. He
started to tell a folk tale to Baird.
“Missionary, a long time ago, there was a spring of alcohol
beyond that southern ridge. Anyone who drank alcohol didn’t need
to worry about meeting disaster on the trip. But people said, only
one glass of alcohol was allowed. If you drink more than one glass,
the spring will go dry. Everyone followed the rule but one governor
broke the rule and drank two glasses of alcohol and he said ‘only
one glass for the lower class, noblemen can drink a lot’ “
“So what happened?”
“The governor went down the mountain and died suddenly.”
“Ah... I learned that excessive greed makes things worse from
your tale. When I planned to preach the word of God, I’ve thought
that I can promote Christianity well, and educate from the
beginning. But now I know that I want to be a neighbor who shares
the word of God rather than a missionary or teacher to the Korean
people. I really want to be a friend of the Korean people.”
“That’s why you changed your name to Wee-ryang Bae. I heard
you and your brother-in-law made Korean names.” Seo said.
“You are right. I believe that if I work hard, my purpose will be
realized.”
Later, William Baird built several churches in different cities in
Korea and he is remembered as the first western missionary to the
people.
●● To build a bell tower: devotion of senior deaconess
Ju-yeol Lee.
‘I am a church and a neighbor who consoles my people. I wish the
best of luck to Ju-yeol Lee who is a devout Christian.’
Her age was 62. She was skinny and small. She seemed to be
lacking in energy but her mind was very comfortable.
“Minister, how’s the progress of the bell tower construction? Is
everything OK?”
“Yes, don’t worry about that, please.”
“Did you have enough building
materials?”
“Deacon, we have enough materials. You
already gave us a lot, didn’t you?
She had already donated a very large
amount of rice paddies to construct a
church without any hesitation.
▲Reverend WilliamM. Baird
▲Deaconess Ju-yeol Lee
91CChhaapptteerr 66.. The First Presbyterian Church of Daegu (Jae-il Church)90 Daegu Alleyway
“Senior deaconess, I know that it was difficult for you to prepare
that land.”
“Yes, it was quite difficult. I really had a tough time preparing all
of it by myself.”
“Yes, I know, the church knows, God also knows. We really
appreciate what you've done so far,” the minister said.
“Minister, what kind of bell sound will we hear after the bell
tower is built?”
“Well... I think, it will sound like the voice of God in Genesis.”
“Can I hear it before I die?”
“Of course, you must be able to hear it.”
“(smiling) No, Minister, I am an old woman, I am just acting like
a child in front of a servant of God. I should die first, and I will get
praise from God later.”
“Oh.. you are a mother to all believers.”
“Thank you”
“I guess I should thank you. The church will never forget you.”
After she graduated from Bible school, Ju-yeol Lee devoted much
of her life to the foundation of Women s Evangelistic Group inside
the congregation as a president. She also served as a parish clerk, a
Sunday school teacher, and deaconess.
As a deaconess, she donated a large amount of rice paddies to
build the bell tower of the third church. But she died right before
the bell tower was finished, on December 9, 1936 at the age of 63.
●● Ja-myeong Seo, the first baptized member of the first
Presbyterian Church of Daegu
Ja-myeong sat in distress on his knees on the bare ground and
members of his family scolded him sternly.
“We can not accept you as a family member as long as you stick
to Christianity.”
“But.......”
“What kind of family is our family? Our ancestors pledged our
loyalty to the nation and they did everything they could for their
parents. Our family is a prestigious family. A Christian won’t be
tolerated any more. You have disgraced our family’s name. It is
time you should choose between being a member of our family and
being a Christian.”
“Uncle, Christians retain their loyalty to the nation and they are
also good sons and daughters to their parents. Maybe Christians are
more honest and truth-worthy.”
“Not another word out of you! You should make your decision by
the end of the month.”
They walked out on him and never let him talk. Wan-sick Jung
who was waiting for him outside the house was genuinely sorry.
“What do you intend to do?”
▲ Ja-myeong Seo is the first person from the left on the firstrow, wearing a got hat.
93CChhaapptteerr 66.. The First Presbyterian Church of Daegu (Jae-il Church)92 Daegu Alleyway
“I have already made up my mind.”
I thought so. If you endure and try hard, you will bear abundant
fruit some day and your family would finally be so proud of you. I
don't doubt you will achieve it.
“Wan-sick, although I have a smattering knowledge of the Bible, I
can see plainly... My neighbors are very weary. I will help them
heal at Jaejungwon (currently, Dongsan Medical Center). I don’t
think missionary Baird did his first missionary work by chance at
the Medicine Market Street in the city of Daegu. I think it is the
will of god that you should help my neighbors suffering from their
physical distress.”
“You’re right. God will always be with you...
Ja-myeong was first baptized into the First Presbyterian Church of
Daegu. He was the first fruit gained through Adams and Johnson’s
missionary works. Ja-myeong cut his topknot on his head after he
met Jesus, it was firm evidence that he was determined. He
accepted both Christianity and Enlightenment at the same time.
Even though he was thrown out of his conservative family, he
kept his religious beliefs. He would become the first baptized
Presbyterian in Daegu.
When Johnson opened Jaejungwon (currently, Dongsan Medical
Center), he employed Ja-myeong as a medical assistant and a
missionary. When Johnson was absent from his duty owing to
illness for weeks, he would keep the hospital open thanks to Ja-
myeong’s help. Johnson said, Ja-myeong wasn’t a logical
preacher, but he was a popular preacher because he had a sense of
humor, the ability to laugh at yourself or the situation. Nobody can
surpass his wit and passion.
◀The First Presbyterian Church ofDaegu built in 1933 in Namsung-ro isdesignated as an important tangibleproperty of Daegu for its historicimportance of being an early redbrick Gothic building in the city. It isnow used as a missionary hall of theFirst Presbyterian Church of Daegu.
▶The new First Presbyterian Churchof Daegu on Dong-san. It isconstructed on the site of 160,000m2.
95CChhaapptteerr 66.. The First Presbyterian Church of Daegu (Jae-il Church)94 Daegu Alleyway
Kyonam YMCA, a holy place for the Protestant churches
in Daegu.
There is Kyonam YMCA across from the First Presbyterian
Church of Daegu and it is a historical place for the Protestant
churches in Daegu. Before and after the March 1st Independence
Movement, the Protestant churches of Daegu were a primary agent
for social change. When Korea was under Japanese colonial rule,
the youth filled with patriotism came to the forefront as leaders for
the Independence Movement.
Kyonam YMCA was a core organization of the regional
Independence Movement. Kyonam YMCA was established on
September 15, 1918 during the Japanese colonial period. It was the
second YMCA founded after Seoul YMCA in Korea.
The first president of the association was Man-jip Lee who was a
minister at the First Presbyterian Church of Daegu. Tae-ryun Kim
was the first manager. The number of the members of the
organization was about one hundred.
Man-jip Lee and a lot of members were arrested only 6 months
after its founding because they led the March 1st Independence
Movement. After that, Kyonam YMCA devoted all its energy to
make local citizens’ awareness through a range of activities such as
an enlightenment campaign, vocational training and volunteer
activities for rural communities.
Kyonam YMCA was a two-story house built in a western style
made of red bricks. Kyonam YMCA founded Young-shin
Girls’School to promote education for women. Kyonam YMCA
continued to conduct many campaigns such as Enlightenment
Movement and Temperance Movement, and operate a night school
to study the Bible.
Kyonam YMCA received authorization from the Ministry of
Culture and Information under the name of Daegu YMCA on
December 29, 1956. Daegu YMCA was moved to a new building
that has four floors in the 1960s. It is located across from Central
Security Center in Deoksan-dong, Jung-gu, Daegu. Ever since then,
Daegu YMCA has led new cultural movements and trained leaders
for citizens’ campaigns.
Daegu (Kyonam) YMCA celebrated its 90th birthday in
September, 2008.
▲Kyonam YMCA building in front of the First Prestyerian Church of Daegu at Namsung-ro.
Yangyeongsi Medicine
Market Museum of
Oriental Medicine
Chapter 07
Location Introduction
The Yangyeongsi Medicine Market
Museum of Oriental Medicine has been
an important tourist attraction since it
was established in 1985. The Medicine
Market Street used to be the largest
center of the oriental medicine industry
in Korea. In an effort to preserve,
inherit, and develop the tradition of the
oriental medicine culture, the Museum
continues to provide a variety of hands-
on health experience programs. Visitors
can learn the 350-year-old tradition in
the history of Yangyeongsi Medicine
Market Street, experiencing multiple
exhibitions and hands-on programs.
There are also two intriguing stories:
the governor Eu-baek Lim's
establishment of the original
Yangyeongsi Medicine Market and a
great merchant Hong-jo Kim.
99CChhaapptteerr 77.. Yangyeongsi Medicine Market Museum of Oriental Medicine98 Daegu Alleyway
Did the Daedong Law1)
cause the Medicine Market to open?
●●Governor Eu-baek Lim's drastic decision
Located in Namseong-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu, Medicine Market
(Yangyeongsi) gives off the deep smell of oriental medicine. It has
been renowned for a variety of objects and stores related to oriental
medicine since it was established in 1658. The oriental medicine
shops and the tea houses that sell ginseng and herbal teas prosper
on the Medicine Market Street and the total number of the stores
related to oriental medicine is over 350 on the street.
With its long history of over 350 years, there are many stories
about the Medicine Market. Most interesting among those stories
are stories about the Daedong Law and the Medicine Market. The
market was not first held at the Medicine Market Street (Yakjeon-
golmok) but in front of a guesthouse of the Gyeongsang Provincial
Office. The event took place twice a year in spring and autumn. As
its scale became bigger, the popularity of the event quickly spread
throughout the country.
There are several stories about the
origin of the Medicine Market, one
which is closely related to the
Daedong Law. In the 17th century,
the Law took effect all over the
country. Under the law, the central
government could make its people
to offer rice as a tribute to the nation
replacing other tributary products.
While the central government
became able to collect plenty of
rice, the government inevitably
faced a lack of specialty products.
In need of a wide variety of
specialities, the central government
made local officials to work closely
with local merchants to provide
▲Daegu MedicineMarket Street started in1658 when Eu-baek Im,the governor ofGyeongsang Province,opened the medicinemarket in spring andautumn every year. Thephoto is the scenery ofthe Medicine Market inthe 1930s. Medicinemerchants from all overthe country used togather to the Market.
1) A kind of tax payment policy which allowed people to pay their taxes using localproduce such as rice or other specialities.
101CChhaapptteerr 77.. Yangyeongsi Medicine Market Museum of Oriental Medicine100 Daegu Alleyway
specialty products to the central government. Eventually, this new
trend considerably boosted the operation of merchants nationwide.
With the implementation of the Daedong Law, the flow of
currency and commodities was rapidly growing and even the
established order of social status was disintegrating.
Due to these considerable changes, there were several problems
with medical products from Chung-cheonng Province. Though the
Province had been the center of medical products, it was not able to
provide enough amount of medical products to the government.
This is mainly because the implementation of the Daedong Law
contributed to significantly reducing the circulation of medical
products, a specialty product of the province.
As the central government felt the urgent need of a new supply
channel, it turned its eye to Gyeongsang Province where the
government had yet implemented the Law. People in Gyeongsang
Province became heavily burdened because of the government’s
demand of a significant amount of quality medical products.
Eu-back Lim, the governor of Gyeongsang Province, was
responsible for providing high quality medical products to the
central government but failed to meet the government’s expectation
at first. He was severely scolded by the central government for the
poor quality of some products he had tributed to the king.
To solve this problem, Lim tried to find a reliable way to stably
collect and provide good medical products. He planned to open a
market specializing in herbal medicine and medical products. This
was the origin of the Medicine Market and its size steadily began to
grow.
According to the records, the number of buyers came to the
Market from all over the country reached 10,000 in 1904.
Despite its prosperity, the Medicine Market faced a crisis because
the Japanese destroyed the main building and the guesthouse of
Gyeongsang Gamyeong in 1908 which is one year after they
destroyed the Daegu City Wall. As a result, the place for the
Medicine Market was gone.
People in Daegu, however, tried to preserve the Medicine Market
on their own under the Japanese colonial regime. Thanks to their
efforts, they could relocate and rebuild the Medicine Market on
Namseong-ro in the fall of 1908. The market street is called
Yakjeon-golmok (Medicine Market Street or Alleyway).
●●Hong-jo Kim, a well-known merchant to China
As the Medicine Market Street became more popular, a few shop
owners became the leaders of the market. Most of them were
merchants or physicians, who exerted great influence over the
market operation. In particular, the merchants responsible for
mediating commercial transactions with merchants from other
regions became quite powerful.
They ran a variety of businesses: wholesaling, warehousing
services, and financing. Merchants purchased things and stocked
them before putting them on the market.
In addition, they were directly involved in providing merchants
from other areas with lodging and boarding. In a sense, they took
charge as market managers for the market economy, keeping
supply and demand in balance.
Among the merchants, Hong-jo Kim called ‘a great merchant’
became well-known for having a acute sense of business, and his
103CChhaapptteerr 77.. Yangyeongsi Medicine Market Museum of Oriental Medicine102 Daegu Alleyway
reputation widely spread beyond the border to China.
He did business with merchants from all over the country while
running his own pharmaceutical business, and he continued to
expand into other fields. Kim possessed six warehouses and
operated a number of guesthouses, where he provided merchants
from other regions with lodging and boarding services with over 40
employees.
It seemed that Kim could succeed in business due to people's
reliance on him. He focused on gaining credibility with his
customers. There was a common practice at that time among
dealers who made payments for goods to merchants several months
or one year later. However, Kim was always punctual when paying
his debts.
●● Into the Museum of Oriental Medicine at Yangyeongsi
The Museum of Oriental Medicine was built in 1985. The second
floor is composed of a hands-on experience zone with oriental
medicine, and an oriental medicine well-being zone.
The museum has a variety of spaces where visitors are able to
have unique experiences like learning the principles of oriental
medicine and exploring the characteristics of their own body.
At a zone, visitors can learn the origin and features of Korean
medicine and the principle of Yin Yang (known in Korea as
“eumyang” which is shade and light) and the five elements (fire,
wood, water, metal and earth, known in Korea as the “Five Element
Theory”).
At the ‘hands-on oriental medicine zone,’ anyone interested in
herbal medicine health is able to learn about herbal medicine such
▲Visitors can see the 350-year history of Yangyeongsi and the Medicine MarketStreet. Also, there are many special activities to let visitors enjoy and help themunderstand more about herbal medicine.
◀A photo of Medicinal HerbGarden on the second floor of theMuseum of Oriental Medicine. Theplace is decorated with medicinalherbs and plants. Visitors can see theexplanations of the components andcharacteristics of medicinal herbs.
105CChhaapptteerr 77.. Yangyeongsi Medicine Market Museum of Oriental Medicine104 Daegu Alleyway
OOppeenniinngg HHoouurrss
OOppeenniinngg DDaayyss
AAddmmiissssiioonn FFeeee
TTeell
10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
Tuesday through Sunday (It closes on Mondays,
on January 1, Lunar New Year Day and Autumn
Evening which is referred to as Full Moon in China)
Free
(053) 253-4729, 253-3359
Museum Information
as the way to check on their physical state, ways to get healthier
and make adjustments for their daily life.
On the third floor, visitors are able to view the history and culture
of the Medicine Market. Visitors can find a hands-on experience
room for Oriental Medicine Culture as well as places for buying
oriental medical products.
There are also various other facilities, such as a medical herb
garden where a selection of medical herbs grow. The oriental
medicine culture zone shows plants, animals and even minerals
and illustrates the process of sorting out medical materials and the
methods of dealing with them.
The Yeongnam
Great Route
Chapter 08
Location Introduction
The Yeongnam Great Route, or
Yeongnam-daero, was one of the
principal roads of Korea during the
Joseon Dynasty, 1392-1910. It ran
between Hanseong (modern-day Seoul)
and Dongnae (modern-day Busan).
More generally, it served to connect
Gyeongsang Province to the capital. It
takes its name from Yeongnam, an
alternate name for Gyeongsang
Province. In addition to officials and
merchants, the road was used by
scholars from Gyeongsang on their
way to and from the national
examinations held in the capital.
Much of the course of the road was
destroyed in the course of the 20th
century. However, a few small
stretches have been preserved.
109CChhaapptteerr 88.. The Yeongnam Great Route108 Daegu Alleyway
The old road to Seoul,used by merchants and scholars
“Daedongyeo map”, which Jong-ho Kim made in 1861 shows the
paths our ancestors used and the “Yeongnam Great Route” is
shown on the map.
There were nine main roads to connect Seoul to each region in the
Joseon Dynasty. The most popular route among them was the
Yeongnam Great Route connecting Yeongnam region to Seoul. If
you see Daedongyeo map, the Yeongnam Great Route connected
Busan, Daegu, Mungyeong-saejae, Chungju and Yongin to Seoul.
The length was about 380km. In fact, when people walked from
Busan to Seoul, it took about 14 days. Although the old road has
disappeared, the memory of its past remains. There are several
symbolic sections of the Yeongnam Great Route in Daegu.
The part of the route ran outside of the Daegu City Wall between
its West Gate and South Gate. At that time, the surrounding area of
the City Wall consisted of the street corners between the West Gate
Market (Seomun Market) and the South Gate Market (Nammun
Market) and an open market flourished there.
Various stores, accommodations, and restaurants lined the road.
Gradually, the street became the center of business in Daegu.
Commoners and rural people lined up to trade goods and some
people who had business inside the City Wall even stayed
overnight in the accomodations. There were two classes of people
who were travelling from and to Seoul in Gyeongsang Province.
One was merchants and the other was scholars to take Gwageo
(the State Examination to select government officials) in Seoul.
That's why sometimes the street along the City Wall was called the
Gwageo Street. The Daegu City Wall was completely destroyed by
imperialist Japan in 1907. Then big main roads opened in its place.
The look of many alley ways changed when the Daegu City Wall
was destroyed. The current Namseong Avenue was also one of the
main roads.
In 1908, when the Gyeongsang Provincial Office was destroyed,
there occurred big changes in Namseong Avenue. Since King
▲ The Yeongnam Great Route located at a place used to be called Abbakgul inGyesan-dong, Junggu, Daegu. The mural in the photo depicts merchants and literati.(From The Sourcebook of 52 Daegu Scenery Resources)
111CChhaapptteerr 88.. The Yeongnam Great Route110 Daegu Alleyway
Hyojong in 1658, the Yangnyeongsi Medicine Market was held in
front of the Gyeongsang Provincial Office twice a year during
spring and autumn. The market eventually moved to Namseong
Avenue because it lost its site as the Gyeongsang Provincial Office
building was destroyed. The new Yangnyeongsi Medicine Market
opened, and the oriental medicine shops started to open along
Namseong Avenue.
However, a part of the Yeongnam Great Route became a narrow
alleyway because many houses were densely constructed along the
street. Although the street changed into an alleyway, it was still
used as a main road. After the new Yangyeongsi Medicine Market
became more established, the place became crowded with
merchants trading medicine. Therefore, many inns were built for
the peddlers. After that the original function of the Yeongnam
Great Route dwindled, and the new Yangyeongsi Medicine Market
strengthened. However, the route remained crucial for the success
of the market.
The characteristic of the Yeongnam Great Route, especially the
Daegu section, was that the street was scattered with several
traditional markets. If you follow the road, you can meet Bongduk
Market, Bongsan Market, Yeommae Market (discount market), the
Yangnyeongsi Medicine Market, and Seomun Market.
Especially, Yeommae Market formed naturally by the increasing
number of street stalls, inns located in an alleyway outside the ex-
City Wall as the Wall was destroyed.
There had been about 300 stores crowded together before Donga
Shopping Center was constructed. Currently, only about 50 stores
and restaurants which specialize in Tteok (rice cake), fish, fruit,
vegetables and porridge are in business. They carry on a tradition
market along 200 meters of Namseong Avenue and the southern
part of Dongseong Avenue 3.
The Tteok (rice cake) road became popular after many shops
became permanent. When the Tteok road was formed, North
Korean refugees began to sell Tteok (rice cake) on the sidewalks
▲ The Tteok (rice cake) street in Yeommae Market.
113CChhaapptteerr 88.. The Yeongnam Great Route112 Daegu Alleyway
near Yeommae Market. The market became a permanent
establishment in the form of street stalls to the west of the current
Donga Shopping Center in the 1960s.
However, after Donga Shopping Center was established in 1984,
the Tteok stalls lost their place and spread out to different
alleyways near Donga Shopping Center. Finally, Tteok (rice cake)
alley receded more and more. Then Samsung Finance Plaza was
built, so Tteok (rice cake) alley lost its footing. The final blow was
the construction of Hyundai Department Store. Most of the Tteok
stalls had been located where the department store building was
being built, and had to move to a new location on Jongro Street.
Fortunately, because of its long reputation, customers continue to
visit.
If you go into the alley outside of the ex-City Wall on the
Yeongnam Great Route, you can see traces of an old inn. In the
early days, tired travelers stayed overnight at Gyeongin inn,
Keisung inn and Ansung inn. Gyeongin inn is the previous name of
the current Sungju store. The exterior of the old building attracts
the public's gaze, and the old Korean style house is interesting.
When we pass by the pillar and stand below the low ceiling of the
house, we can imagine noisy merchants from other cities buying
medicine.
A renowned Korean poet, Chi-hwan Yu, wrote a poem At
Daegu related to his father who was an oriental medical doctor.
His father visited the Yangyeongsi Medicine Market and
sometimes grabbed a bite to eat at a tavern in an alley.
A huge mural was painted on the wall of Suhyup Bank (Bank of
the National Federation of Fisheries Cooperatives) at the suggestion
of the Jung-gu City Development Support Center. There is a sign
about the Yeongnam Great Route and a symbolic sculpture built
behind Hyundai Department Store. Since the alley way has
changed, young people flock to this area and the business district is
also being revitalized.
▲ If you go through the rice cake street heading to the Yeongnam Great Rout, you willmeet the site of old inns. The picture is Sungju store where Gyeongin inn used to be.
Jong-ro
Chapter 09
Location Introduction
The meaning of the name 'Jong-ro' is
'a street that rings bells to tell time."
The street started from the Yeongnam
First Gate. After Daegu's
modernization, ringing bells stopped.
Jong-ro used to be the headquarter of
Chinese residents and Gisaeng. The
street was also famous for furniture
dealers. After modernization, the
street was abandoned, but it is now
reformed as a tourist attraction where
bears the history of Daegu.
117CChhaapptteerr 99.. Jong-ro116 Daegu Alleyway
A talented Gisaeng1) worried about hercountry under the colonial rule of Japan
Jong-ro was once known for Gisaeng and the places where they
worked: Gyobang parlours during the rule of Gyeongsang
Provincial Office and later Yojung restaurants from the Japanese
occupation period until the early 1980s. Although Gisaeng
belonged to a lower class, they were considered as a highly cultured
being. In particular, most of them were proficient in not only
singing and dancing but also painting and poetry.
Among the Gisaeng, Aeng-mu was extraordinary, gorgeous, and
versatile. It is interesting to note that there were two people whose
names were ‘Aeng-mu’. One was a person in “Joseon
Haeeohwasa2)” written by Neong-hwa Lee. The book told her
stories of love and farewell with Cheon-bo Lee, who served as a
governor of Gyeongsang Province.
The other ‘Aeng-mu’ was a famous Gisaeng in Daegu. At that
time there were three famous things in Daegu, Byung-oh Seo,
Dalseung Mud Fortress, and Aeng-mu. She greatly contributed to
the National Debt Repayment
Movement3), making a generous
donation. Here is the story about
Aeng-mu, the famous Gisaeng in
Daegu.
●● Aeng-mu’s romance with
Governor of Gyeongsang
Province
Aeng-mu excelled in writing,
painting, and poetry, which caught
men’s attention. She became more
brilliant, outstanding and dignified
than others as if she had been a
descendant of the yangban.4)
She had a good command of
language skills as well as
astonishing beauty. That’s why she
drew a lot of attention from sons of
noble families, but she wasn’t
interested in any of them. Aeng-mu
1) Gisaeng was officially sanctioned Korean female entertainer whose function was toentertain customers who were ruling class men, and made a feast more enjoyable.
2) History of Joseon Haeeohwa. Haeeohwa means ‘flower who understands words’.
3) The National Debt Repayment Movement was a movement by the people of the KoreanEmpire to repay their country's debt through collecting individual donations. It wasstarted by Sang-don Seo of Daegu on January 30, 1907. At that time the national debtwas 13 million won. At the movement's height in 1908, it had assessed 190,000.
4) Yangban were part of the traditional ruling class or nobles of the Joseon Dynasty.Yangban were either landed or unlanded aristocracy who embodied the KoreanConfucian idea of “scholarly official.” Basically, they were administrators andbureaucrats who formed old Korea's traditional agrarian bureaucrats until the long-lastingregime of Joseon Dynasty ended in 1904.
▲Gisaengs were modern artirtswho were proficient in not onlysinging and dancing but alsopainting and poetry.
119CChhaapptteerr 99.. Jong-ro118 Daegu Alleyway
remained only interested in Cheon-bo Lee, the governor of
Gyeongsang Province.
Lee used to chant and engage in poem recitation with Gisaeng as
a pastime. However, most of them did not want to make direct eye
contact with him because of his high social status and an air of
great dignity.
One hot summer day, he called upon all government Gisaengs to
hold a poetry meeting. He spontaneously recited a poem called
“Deongwang gakseo” in front of the Gisaengs. After his turn was
over, Aeng-mu was asked to chant a poem. Her skills of performing
verse, dancing and singing were distinctively superior to those of
her colleagues. Lee was fascinated by her outstanding performance
as well as her beauty. He frequently visited to see Aeng-mu and
they got to know each other.
During his tenure, Lee cherished her a lot. It seemed that the
relationship between them went beyond their social status as an
officer and an entertainer.
Before leaving Daegu, Lee was given a poem about how sad she
felt for saying goodbye. It is said that Cheon-bo Lee rewarded her
with one-hundred bags of rice in appreciation of her dedication of a
poem to him.
●● Another Aeng-mu wanted to become more than a
Gisaeng for her nation 200 years later.
Among the Gisaeng, Aeng-mu was much more remarkable than
any other. Amazingly, she focused on helping the country and
indeed rendered distinguished services for it. In many ways, she
was a dedicated patriot. For example, she often advised her
coworkers that they should devote themselves to the country in
order to recover sovereign power from Japan's colonial rule.
Despite her belonging to a lower class, she herself contributed to
the recovery of the country and put her ideas into action as well.
In 1904, the Japanese atrocities committed against Korea came to
a climax causing the Korean Empire to be in a predicament and the
Empire became powerless. Particularly, Japan forced Korea to
introduce a loan policy so that Japan could have the authority to
dominate Korea by driving Korea into a corner economically.
Eventually, its total debt amounted to around 13 million won.
In 1907, some determined figures in Daegu collaborated to find a
solution to repay the 13 million won debt. In an effort to pay off the
debt, they volunteered to collect individual donations such as
jewelry and even cash which people sacrificed from their own
living expenses. After hearing the news, Aeng-mu felt a strong
responsibility in the recovery of the country’s sovereignty from
Japan. She advised her friends to take part in the National Debt
Repayment Movement. As a result, she played an important role in
raising funds.
▶An article of April 24, 1937 about Nong-sanYeom who made a large amount of contribution toKyonam School. She was actively involved insocial movements at that time. Both Nong-sanYeom and Aeng-mu were Gisaeng and they areassumed to be the same person.
121CChhaapptteerr 99.. Jong-ro120 Daegu Alleyway
At that time, the donation center was crowded with only men. It
was almost unthinkable for women to participate in social activities
because Korea was a conservative male-dominated society. Few
women were given the opportunity to do official duties.
In spite of the adverse conditions, she was willing to donate one-
hundred won, which was almost equivalent to the value of a house
at that time.
As the news of her activities rapidly spread throughout the
country, Gisaeng from around the region showed up to join the
movement. Some leaders of the movement, touched by her
patriotism, promised to make big donations.
Although her profession was an entertainer, she became more of a
fighter who tried to achieve something important in difficult
circumstances. She was a good role model who devoted herself to
the country though she was a Gisaeng.
Jong-ro,’a Street of Gisaeng
Jong-ro was famous as Street of Gisaeng . After the Daegu City
Wall was demolished, Jong-ro gradually lost its function as the
central passageway of the city. However, it became famous for Yo-
jeong restaurants which led the nightlife culture of the city.
The background of Daegu s being called as City of Yo-jeong is
closely related to the Japanese Colonial rule. In 1904, as the
railroad was constructed in Daegu, many Japanese came to Daegu
and many restaurants opened up near Daegu Station.
When the state Gisaeng system was abolished in April 1909,
Gisaengs formed the Daegu Gisaeng Association in May 1910 and
began to perform music and dance in those restaurants for their
living. Later, Daegu Kwonbun was established in June 1922 and
Dalseong Kwonbun (formal Daegu Gisaeng Association) in
January 1927. They became an agent for Gisaengs in Daegu, in
charge of training and supervising Gisaengs, and responsible for
recruiting customers and collecting fees called flower fee from
them.
Many restaurants in Daegu, managed by either Japanese or
Korean, were the work places for Gisaengs from Daegu Kwonbun
or Dalseong Kwonbun. As the Kwonbun system was abolished in
1942, the time of Kwonbun ended.
In the 1960s, Yo-jeong, a combination of restaurant and
Kwonbun, was open. Though Gisaengs received accommodations
and training in Yo-jeong, the quality of training deteriorated in
comparison with that of Kwonbun.
There were a number of Yo-jeong in Daegu since the 1950s until
the late 1980s. After the 1980s, the time of Yo-jeong began to
123CChhaapptteerr 99.. Jong-ro
The Yeongnam First Gate (Yeongnam Jaeil Gwan) was the
southern gate of the Daegu City Wall, which was in the center of
the four gates. The Yeongnam First Gate was connected to the
Daegu City Wall.
The Daegu City Wall was a symbolic and cultural place for
citizens life and culture. Unfortunately, the City Wall was
destroyed by the Japanese and a pro-Japanese group.
Joong-yang Park, the governor of Daegu and a pro-Japanese
leader, was deeply involved in the destruction. Joong-yang Park
had a special relationship with the Japanese colonizers and the
Japanese Resident Society in Daegu.
As the First “Sino-Japanese War” occurred, the Japanese army
entered Daegu in 1894. The Japanese army remained stationed in
Daegu after the war was over, and became reinforced during the
“Russo-Japanese War.”
In 1904, the Japanese organized the Japanese Resident Society in
Daegu, consisting of about 1,000 residents. One of the main
reasons for organizing the Japanese Resident Society was related to
the construction of the Seoul-Busan Railroad Line.
The man who destroys, and the man who is destroyed
122 Daegu Alleyway
wane. In the present, Gami located at Jong-ro 1ga, Jung-gu,
Daegu is the only remained Yo-jeong in the city. Its original name
was Shik-do-won in 1962, but it changed its name into Gami
in 1986.
There are more than 130 miniature Yo-jeongs displayed at the
entrance of Gami . Each miniature is illuminated respectively in
blue, red, or white according to its period. The display showcases
the 100 year history of Gisaengs in Daegu.
▲ ‘Gami’ located at Jong-ro is the only remaining Yo-jeong in the city. It wasoriginally named ‘Shik-do-won’ in 1962 and its name was changed to ‘Gami’ in 1986.
125CChhaapptteerr 99.. Jong-ro124 Daegu Alleyway
After the construction of Daegu station, the Japanese Resident
Society started to dominate commercial spaces near the station.
Eventually, in 1906, more than half of the land in the outskirts of
Daegu (outside of the Daegu City Wall) was occupied by the
Japanese. After the Japanese dominated Daegu, they insisted that
the Daegu City Wall should be pulled down because they argued it
impeded the development of the city.
However, the real purpose was to entirely take over Daegu. While
the Japanese were active outside the wall, they were restricted
whenever they tried to go inside the City Wall. To gain the real
power of the city, they had to occupy the inside of the Wall.
In the end, Park tore down the Wall without the king’s
permission. At midnight, he had workers from Busan destroy the
Wall. Afterwards he reported to the king but the king did not issue
permission since the destruction had no validity. When the royal
court heard the news, the Wall was already half destroyed. For
destroying the Wall the royal court decided to dismiss Joong-yang
Park from his position.
But Park was not dismissed from his post because of the
interference of Ito Hirobumi, who soon became the first Japanese
resident-general to Korea.
The southeast side of the Wall was torn down with the excuse that
the destruction cannot be suspended in 1907 because the Wall
could not be sustained as it was already half destroyed.
In 1908, the inns near Kyeongsang Province Office and the major
buildings were also destroyed and finally the golden age of the
Daegu City Wall was over. The stones from the wall were sold and
the Yeongnam First Gate was destroyed.
Here is the story, ‘Yeongnam First Gate’, based on the demolition
of the Daegu City Wall and the plot of Joong-yang Park and the
Japanese.
●●The night of the destroyers
“So, what is your plan?”
At night, Nakae whispered to Joong-yang Park and he responded
in a low tone.
“I think putting it into action without further contemplation is the
best plan.”
Though Park and Nakae rarely met, when they met, they usually
stayed all night for their meeting. It was their decision not to
associate with each other too often. It was clearly not a good idea
▲ The Yeongnam First Gate (Yeongnam Jaeil Gwan) was restored in Mangwoo Parkin 1980 and was open to the public in 2006.
127CChhaapptteerr 99.. Jong-ro126 Daegu Alleyway
that a governor of a city and a key member of the Japanese
Resident Society frequently meet in public, so they usually met at
night. They talked about various issues such as politics, economy,
and culture. It was possible because Park was fluent in Japanese.
“First, we should tear down only several weakest parts of the
Daegu City Wall to make the damage less conspicuous. Then we
say the Wall is time-worn and useless and suggest to completely
tear it down.”
“Excellent idea. But what about the king? Wouldn’t he object?”
“Of course, the king will be offended. But now everyone already
knows the king has no power. If he objects, I believe you will be
supported by Mr. Ito Hirobumi.”
“Terrific. The castle should be gone as soon as possible. Then the
Japanese will finally control the city.”
“I know. The restrictions will soon disappear after the Daegu City
Wall is gone.”
“Indeed. It bothers us all the time whenever the wall blocks our
ways into the City. Well, thank you, sir. I thank you on behalf of
not only the Japanese Resident Society but also the mainland of
Japan.”
“No worries. You and the Japanese Resident Society can trust
me.”
●●The day of the destroyed
“You are saying that Joong-yang Park, a mere county governor,
insulted me-his king and his government-but I cannot punish him?
“He is one of Ito's favorite persons, your majesty.”
“Do you think Ito is the king of this country?”
“Your majesty.”
“Do you think this country is the Korean Empire or the Japanese
Empire? Do you think the Daegu Fortress is just a wall? Do you
know how much effort has been put into it? It was built by Daegu
people with their bare hands. Even though the people knew it
would be hard to build the Fortress because of Daegu’s
geographical conditions, they built it anyway. Do you know why?
Because they wanted to bring peace and protection to their
families!”
“Your majesty.”
“The castle is only 170 years old. I mourn for myself. Now it is
being destroyed but there is nothing I can do...”
●●The day of the destroyers
“It is in progress. Your idea was truly brilliant Mr. Park. But there
is also strong opposition.”
“Of course there is. However, the commercial power is moving to
the Japanese.”
“We should do something about the opposition.”
“Well, I have an idea. We should destroy the Yeongnam First
Gate. The gate is the most important part of the fortress. Without
the gate, the fortress will lose its meaning for existence.”
●●The night of the destroyed
King Go-jong could not sleep at all.
“The Daegu Fortress was destroyed but it will be the entire nation
which will be destroyed in a near future.
Although the Yeongnam First Gate was restored, its
shape and size is an issue.
The Yeoungnam First Gate was restored in 1980, which is located
at Mangwoo Park. In 2006, it was opened to the public.
129CChhaapptteerr 99.. Jong-ro128 Daegu Alleyway
Now, Joong-yang Park is
selling the wall stones but one
day the Japanese are going to sell
our people.”
Thoughts kept him from sleep.
“I don’t know who I am. I
cannot do anything in my
country. So, I am not a king
because I cannot rule my
people.
▲The Yeongnam First Gate(Yeongnam Jaeil Gwan) was thesouthern gate of the Daegu CityWall. It used to be located at theintersection of the YangyeongsiMedicine Market. The monumentdescribing the ruins of YeongnamJaeil Gwan was erected at theintersection.
▲ The picture of The Yeoungnam First Gate was first made public in 1998 by Sung-gil Jung. The outside edges of both number 1 and number 2 were cut in the photo.However, the picture which Sung-gil Jung made public in 2010 shows that the eavesand machicolations (the parts shown in dotted line of round shapes) look prominently.The original hall of the gate on the second floor in the old photo had five rooms (orfive spans of intercolumniation) (number 3), but the restored one has only threerooms (number 5). Besides, the calligraphy style of the letters on the restoredsignboard is quite different from the original one.
1 2
3
5
4
4
131CChhaapptteerr 99.. Jong-ro130 Daegu Alleyway
The restoration of the Yeongnam First Gate has been criticized
that the restored gate is different from its original design. Because it
was not easy to verify its shape and size. Since there were almost
no photos or images of the Yeongnam First gate. Sung-gil Jung, a
researcher of old photos and an honorary director of Keimyung
University Dongsan Medical Center Museum, posted a photo in a
local newspaper detailing a controversy over its size or dignity. For
instance, the original hall of the gate on the second floor had five
rooms, but the restored one has only three rooms. The photo
revealed that the restored Yeongnam First Gate is quite different
from the original one. The number of the rooms of the Yeongnam
First Gate was a symbol representing the authority or social status
of Gyeongsang Province office.
At the same time, some people strongly insisted that the Gate be
restored to the original place which was at the intersection of the
Yangnyeongsi Medicine Market Street and Jong-ro.
Why was the Daegu City Wall destroyed?
In 1590, the first Daegu City Fortress was built as an earthen wall
located near present Gosung-dong, Buk-gu, Daegu. After the wall
was destroyed during the “Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592,”
Daegu became vulnerable to invasions by Japanese pirates. The
bureau of Daegu had to take measures to address the problem. With
the integration of left and right Gyeongsang Province in 1596, the
Gyeongsang Provincial office, which had been in Andong, was
relocated to Daegu. People demanded that a new City Fortress be
constructed, but the construction was delayed because that of
mountain fortresses was considered more urgent.
The completed the Daegu City Wall with stones had four big
gates and two small secret gates for passage at night. The
Yeongnam First Gate was the southern gate of the City Wall. It was
the center of the four gates, located at the intersection of the
Yangyeongsi Medicine Market Street and Jong-ro.
The West Gate was where Shin-han Bank is today behind Amigo
Hotel. The North Gate also called Gongbuk Gate was at the
intersection of North Gyeongsang fire fighting equipment store,
Buksung-ro (North Wall Avenue). The East Gate also called
▲ A map of the restored Daegu City Wall and the main buildings of the GyeongsangProvincial office in their original locations. It was made using a 1903 map by thePeople’s Coalition for Streets of Culture in 2007.
133CChhaapptteerr 99.. Jong-ro132 Daegu Alleyway
Jindong Gate was at the intersection of the Jaeil Bank Dongseong-
ro branch. Besides, there were two small gates: Dongso Gate (East
Small Gate) and Seoso Gate (West Small Gate).
134 years after its construction, the Daegu City Wall was
extensively renovated in 1870 in order to protect the city from an
invasion of western powers during the early Daewongun5) regime.
At that time, the wall was in terrible condition and in need of
repair. The renovation of the facilities began under the control of
governor Sae-ho Kim. There still remains records depicting the
situations at that time on the Daegu City Wall monument. The
monument has been moved next to the Yeongnam First Gate in
Mangwoo Park.
In 1907, the Daegu City Wall eventually was removed by Joong-
yang Park. After taking the position as governor of North
Gyongsang Province, Park opened the crossroad called today
Dongseong-ro (East Wall Avenue), Seoseong-ro (West Wall
Avenue), Namseong-ro (South Wall Avenue) and Bukseong-ro
(North Wall Avenue).
5) Heungseon Daewongun (1820-1898), known for the main proponent of isolationism andthe instrument of the persecution of native and foreign Catholics, was the father of thepenultimate Joseon monarch Gojong, and for many years during Gojong's minority, andeven afterward, he effectively wielded royal power.
▲ Bagsong Restaurant used to be a music and dance training center for the Gisaengswho belonged to Kwonbun in Daegu.
Jin alleyway
(Jin Golmok)
Chapter 10
Location Introduction
Jin alleyway is the tenth section of the
second course of the Daegu Alleyway
History Tour. Jin of Jin alleyway means
'long' in Gyeongsang province dialect.
However, this alleyway is short. It is
slightly longer than 100m in length.
Although Jin alleyway is short, the
history of this alley is more than 100
years. This alleyway was shown on a
Daegu map in 1905. Because of it’s
long history, Jin alleyway contains
many stories about various events and
people.
137CChhaapptteerr 1100.. Jin alleyway (Jin Golmok)136 Modern Alley
2: 22, February 22nd!
The National Debt Repayment Movement was a movement when
people tried to pay back the national debt with the collective power
of the people. Women in Daegu took part in this movement first
before women in any other region did. Seven women who lived at
Jin alleyway donated cherished possessions two days after the
movement started.
The Purpose of the National Debt Repayment Movement at first
was to pay back the national debt with money saved by giving up
smoking. For this reason, women and children were left out of the
movement, but women living at Jin alleyway had other ideas. They
thought they should take part in this movement as assistants to their
husbands, so they organized a women's society to collect jewelry
and waste paper. They also issued a manifesto written in Korean,
which said “We inform women citizens respectfully, that we must
help the country.”
These women donated jewelry such as silver rings, ornamental
hairpins and knives made of silver. Although women donated
material things, the patriotism of these women was as strong as the
men’s. As soon as stories of these women were heard, women in
other places participated in this movement all over the country.
Il-jung Lee, wife of Lee Jun a patriotic martyr, organized a
women’s society in Seoul to help the National Debt Repayment
Movement. Soon after 28 women’s organizations and 19 small
associations were founded rapidly in Korea. The small actions of
these seven women who lived at Jin alleyway triggered women’s
participation in the National Debt Repayment Movement.
▲ A stone marker was erected to honor the patriotism of women at Jin alleyway whotook efforts to save the nation. The activities of the women who took part in theNational Debt Repayment Movement are briefly written on this marker.
▲ The front view of Jin alleyway.
139CChhaapptteerr 1100.. Jin alleyway (Jin Golmok)138 Modern Alley
The memorial honoring these women’s spirit
“Because there is a country, so there are people. When a nation is
in crisis, how could you separate men and women?” A women’s
society to collect jewelry and waste paper of Namil-dong is a good
example of patriotic women and there still remains such a patriotic
spirit in the citizens’ heart.
Jin alleyway where the seven female patriots lived is the place
where the National Debt Repayment Movement started on
February, 23rd in 1907. A stone marker was erected to honor the
patriotism of these women at Jin alleyway. On this marker is briefly
written the activities of the women who took part in the National
Debt Repayment Movement. A similar memorial is also found at
the memorial park located at Dongin-dong, Jung gu to honor the
National Debt Repayment Movement.
On the front of the memorial is written the declaration of the
women who were part of the movement. Under the declaration are
written both the last names of the seven women and items donated
by them. The memorial is ring shaped
and its shape is symbolic of the
dedication of women who took efforts
to save the nation.
Jeong Pediatric Clinic is a symbolic building located halfway
through Jin alleyway in Daegu. This building has a large collection
of historical materials which show the housing culture of the then
high class as well as the records which show Daegu citizens’ lives
and hygienic conditions, and the changes of the medical culture.
Especially, this clinic is the place which gave new life and health to
children for 62 years until the clinic closed in February, 2009. Dr.
Pil-su Jeong became famous and a symbol of Jin alleyway since he
opened the clinic in 1947. Daegu citizens’ lives were tough when
Dr. Jeong opened Jeong Pediatric Clinic in Jin alleyway. Most of
the people survived on barley noodles because everybody was poor
in those days. People ate anything as long as the food wasn’t
spoiled. They tried to economize on all the food they ate. These
were such hard time that they didn’t even have a real kitchen
cupboard to keep food safe from dust or bugs, let alone a
refrigerator. It was normal for children to have a stomachache.
Nevertheless, parents couldn’t take their children to a hospital
because of their poverty. People used various folk remedies in their
houses, and then went to medicine stores. Finally, they ran to the
◀ A stone marker erected at the memorial parklocated at Dongin-dong, Jung-gu to honor theNational Debt Repayment Movement. The ringshaped memorial is symbolic of the dedication ofthe women who took efforts to save the nation.
The first two-story western house inDaegu spreading medical care to people
for 62 years.
141CChhaapptteerr 1100.. Jin alleyway (Jin Golmok)140 Modern Alley
pediatric clinic carrying their children on the brink of death on their
back.
The fact that more than half of the children were diarrhea patients
shows the terrible sanitary conditions in those days. “The story of
Jeong Pediatric Clinic” is about Dr. Jeong who gave a new life to
many children for 62 years in Jin alleyway. To vividly show the
memories of those days, a form of storytelling is used.
A two-story western house was built for the first time in Daegu
except those for American missionaries. The house was so
gorgeous and beautiful that many people would peek around the
gate to see it. However, the gate of the house was always closed
and people couldn’t look inside. Then one day, after putting up the
name plate of Jeong Pediatric Clinic on the pillar of the house, the
gate was opened. From that day, the blue gate was never closed.
People said, “There are junipers and a small pond at the clinic.
What a beautiful house!” or “The beauty of the clinic is nothing
compared to Dr. Jeong’s passion for treating children.”
If we could see the fragrance of junipers, the garden would appear
crowded with fragrance. As soon as he opened the window of his
medical office, the strong scent of junipers was in the air. No matter
how strong the scent was, the smell of disinfectant was always
present. Dr. Jeong had a great fondness for mixed smells.
“Junipers always make me comfortable, but an interesting and sad
thing is that I also make others comfortable with disinfectant,” Dr.
Jeong said.
“What do you mean?”, a junior doctor asked. The day before
yesterday, a junior doctor who had studied with him, visited him to
get some advice. However, both men couldn't say hello to each▲ Jeong Pediatric Clinic is a symbolic building located halfway through Jin alleywayin Daegu. This clinic is the time-honoured place which gave new life and health tochildren for 62 years until the clinic closed in February, 2009.
143CChhaapptteerr 1100.. Jin alleyway (Jin Golmok)142 Modern Alley
other because Dr. Jeong was so busy that he didn't have a short
break to spend with him. They finally found time two days later.
The Junior doctor felt that even a brief rest didn't seem to be
allowed. Someone would likely open the door of the medical office
at any minute.
“I mean disinfectant. I was desensitized to that smell because I
always smell it. But patients and their guardians told me that when
they smell disinfectant, they feel comfortable.”
“Oh, I see, that’s possible. You really did a great job with the
patients.
Dr. Jeong slumped down in the chair.
“I’m burned out.”
“Because you loosened up. It’s just like the feeling after the
release from being tied in a rope.” His junior said.
“You are right. Each cell in my body is trembling, but I really
appreciate that I can save someone’s life.”
“You are great. I thought that the child would die that night, but
you saved him.”
“I also felt like there were butterflies in my stomach. He was
completely wiped out and almost lifeless. I wondered how many
days he had diarrhea. I didn’t expect him to be alive. However, I
couldn’t give up. I always hold hope until the end.” Dr. Jeong said.
“Yes, It looked really serious.”
“As you know, many children actually die from diarrhea.
Sometimes, their parents come to the clinic with their dead children
on their back. Parents mistake the dead child as living because the
child was still warm because of a hot fever...”
“It’s really terrible.”
“If the parents had come earlier, many more children would be
alive, right?”, his junior asked.
“Come earlier? It’s easy for you to say so. But it’s really
impossible for them to come earlier. They don't have proper food to
eat, let alone money. They skimp on everything as much as
possible. They just feel happy if they eat enough bran porridge. The
porridge consists of 80% vegetables and 20% bran. So having
diarrhea is no surprise.”
“Oh, that’s terrible.”
“I also can’t remember the last time I ate rice. But I really
appreciate that I can afford to eat barley noodles. To go to a clinic
is a story of another world to them. They just use folk remedies to
cure their illnesses. If it gets worse, they go to medicine stores.
▶Dr. Pil-su Jeong who is a livingwitness of Jeong Pediatric Clinic
145CChhaapptteerr 1100.. Jin alleyway (Jin Golmok)144 Modern Alley
They finally come here just before their children die. Despite
everything, it’s fortunate if they come here.”
“In this situation, all the children will get sick.”
“Yes, children should be protected, but the situation will be more
serious because the weather will get hotter and more humid, then
more children will get sick.”
“It’s incredibly hot in Daegu.”
“The landform of Daegu is like a furnace. If something boils in a
furnace, it takes a long time to cool down.”
“By the way, what about catching a couple hours of sleep? If you
just go down the stairs, that's your room.”
“You are right, my room is just one floor down. But to go up and
down the stairs is like climbing up Mt. Baekdu1) for me.”
“That’s reasonable thinking. I have observed you for two days.
But you haven’t moved at all from this office.”
“You also have had a rough time because of me.”
“No, not at all. I’ve learned a lot from you. Whenever I come
here, I feel that the stairs remind me of you.”
“What? Don’t be silly.”
“No, no. The stairs are low and comfortable so they are just like
you, modest and generous.”
“Haha... I feel so embarrassed hearing that. Whenever I meet
children, I recognize my lack of ability. When you told me about
the stairs, a story occurred to me.”
“What’s that?”
“At first, the stairs were made for children. I thought that the
stairs should be low and comfortable for them to go up and down
because they are small. However, the stairs helped their parents. As
you see, most of the children who came here couldn't walk alone,
so their parents came here with their children on their back. When
they came here, they couldn't see anything. They only focused on
their children. But when they went back, the situation changed.
Their minds and bodies were exhausted so they might fall down if
something touched them lightly. So the low stairs help the parents.”
“Oh, it’s true.”
“The meaning of this alley's name is long. It's not a long way from
the entrance of this alleyway to my clinic, but a parent with a sick
child feels that every step is like a couple of kilometers.”
“That’s why this alleyway is called Jin (long) alleyway...? hum...
I've never thought of it that way.”
“This is a real place. It’s totally different from books or schools.
Children’s lives depend on us.”
At that time, it was noisy outside.
“They are looking for me. I have to take care of the children.”
Dr. Jeong stood up quickly and moved fast. We couldn’t see him
fatigued any more.
1) The highest mountain on the Korean Peninsula.
147CChhaapptteerr 1100.. Jin alleyway (Jin Golmok)146 Modern Alley
The clinic was closed in February, 2009
The fourth volume of Municipal History of Daegu says that the
house of Byung-guk Seo is currently Jeong Pediatric Clinic. But
it’s wrong. Jeong Pediatric Clinic belonged to Byung-guk Seo’s
collateral relative, Byung-jik Seo. Byung-jik Seo, brother of
Byung-gi Seo, also built a western style house opposite from Jeong
Pediatric Clinic. Later, the house was sold to the Royal Hotel and
then the National Tax Service impounded the house because of
unpaid taxes. Currently, the house is incorporated into the building
of the old Jung-ang Cinema, so we can’t see the original building
anymore.
Byung-jik Seo and Byung-gi Seo studied art in Japan. Later,
Byung-jik Seo prepared an art studio on the second floor of the
current Jeong Pediatric Clinic. However, Byung-jik Seo sold the
house to his elder sister’s husband after the Independence of Korea
from Japan. Finally, Dr. Jeong took over the house in 1947. This is
the place that Dr. Jeong treated patients for 62 years until he closed
the clinic in February, 2009. Dr. Jeong graduated from Kyungpook
National Medical College and worked there for over 4 years. After
that, he opened Jeong Pediatric Clinic and he is still living there.
The wall of this building, which was constructed by the Chinese, is
so substantial that the building is a treasured structure.
When people went to the clinic before the clinic was closed. A
sign attracted people’s eyes: Please come up to the second floor
holding your shoes.
Following the instructions, people took off their shoes and went
up the stairs and there was a doctor’s office. A desk, a steel cabinet,
sofa, etc...everything was antique.
If the computer and air conditioner were not here, the office
would have probably looked the same as it did 60 years ago. The
garden overlooking the office reminded people of a small botanical
garden. On the first floor, used as a private home, is a sun room
surrounded by glass and a bathroom with a bathtub. Only a few
houses were equipped with these facilities in the Japanese colonial
era.
The house has been preserved well because Dr. Jeong didn’t
renovate the house a lot. Dr. Jeong is regarded as a human cultural
asset because he was the first pediatrician to open a private
pediatric clinic in Daegu.
“Sometimes, some patients looked at his clinic and thought, ‘This
building is a museum’ and they turned back.” Dr. Jeong said with a
smile.
Jeong Pediatric Clinic was introduced on the TV program “2 days
and 1 night.”
▲ Inside of Jeong Pediatric Clinic. A desk, a steel cabinet, sofa, etc. have been usedfrom the beginning.
149CChhaapptteerr 1100.. Jin alleyway (Jin Golmok)148 Modern Alley
Mido tea house is a good resting place for elders. This place is
located at Jin alleyway which runs on the right side of the old Jung-
ang cinema.
Mido tea house opened with the name ‘Crucible’ across from the
Central Public Safety Center in 1982. The following year, the tea
house changed its name from ‘Crucible’ to ‘Mido’. Mido tea house
is retaining the traditional style of tea houses in the past. This place
was the male section of a house of the Dalseong Seo family.
Most customers were gray-headed old men. These days, more
than 400 customers still visit this tea house everyday. The tea house
became nationally known through word-of-mouth, so visitors from
all four corners of the country visit this attraction. Former president
Chun Doo-hwan has visited the tea house three times. Especially
many writers, poets, and calligraphers have frequented this place.
Young-seop Gwon, a founding father of the Korea Scout Associa-
tion, was a regular customer.
The owner of the tea house, In-suk Jung, is also famous. She has
been a friend of older people for over 30 years. Mrs. Jung opened
this tea house to repay the love from her grandfather. For this
reason, she treats all visitors with courtesy as if they were her
parents.
Sindo, Daedo, Donga, Bumin..... These are names of movie
theaters located on the outskirts of the town. These are also names
of memories which have gone now, but if you go to Jin alleyway,
you can visit a tea house of memories. Most of the customers are so
elderly that elders over seventy are considered still young at the tea
house. The tea house is a typical one for the older generation in
Daegu.
Once you meet the owner of Mido tea house, you will also know
the reason why she is famous. She has a heart of gold. Besides, she
isn’t an ordinary woman.
She stubbornly refuses to wear western clothes. She always wears
a Hanbok (traditional Korean clothes) and a smile. For these
reasons, customers are also polite to her. She shows great devotion
to older customers as if they were her parents. She always considers
Mido tea housea resting place for elders, where memories are sold for a cup of tea
▲ The tea house is a typical one for the older generation in Daegu. These days, morethan 400 customers still visit this tea house everyday.
151CChhaapptteerr 1100.. Jin alleyway (Jin Golmok)150 Modern Alley
the older customers’ budget, so the price of tea is low. She
sometimes even gives pocket money or gifts to customers secretly.
In addition, she created a volunteer group in 2002 and she granted
scholarships to needy kids. Also, she received a prize for good
conduct in 2009 for her actions.
Mido tea house is just like a seodang (village school). The
purpose of this place isn’t solely to make profits. She studied
Chinese classics from Soo-rak Yi who was a classical scholar and
the father of Wan-jae Yi an emeritus professor of the department of
philosophy at Yeungnam University. Her pen name is Hyejung.
Sang-ryeol Jun wrote a poem ‘Mido Tea House.’
The alleyway at the side of Mido tea house has many famous
noodle shops. Right across from the tea house is the alleyway
leading to Jeong Pediatric
Clinic, the first two-story
western house in Daegu. There
are paintings and calligraphic
works hung inside Mido tea
house like an art gallery.
For these reasons, more than
400 customers visit each day on
average and over 200 of them
are regular customers. Mrs. In-
suk Jung gives young people
advice like this.
“As you get older, you need
money. When you are young,
you should earn enough money.
Besides, you should also know
how to use money wisely.”
There are about 110 chairs in
the tea house. The peak hours
are from 2 to 3 in the afternoon.
◀ In-suk Jung, the owner of Midotea house.
▲ Sang-ryeol Jun wrote a poem‘Mido Tea House.’ The framedpoem is hung on the wall opposite ofMido Tea House.
House with a
Sunken Courtyard
Chapter 11
Location Introduction
The background location of the novelHouse with a Sunken Courtyard is
Jong-ro and Jin alleyway. The novel
shows the lives of the citizens of Daegu
right after the Korean War. Won-il Kim,
the writer of the novel who used to live
near Jong-ro and Jin alleyway, had
wrote it based on his childhood. His
novel became a best seller and was
made as a TV drama in the 1980s.
Tourists can recreate the memory of
the old city and the story of the novel by
visiting the place where Won-il Kim
used to live in.
155CChhaapptteerr 1111.. House with a Sunken Courtyard154 Modern Alley
The house in the novel we may be looking for as if playing hide and seekwith Gil-nam from the novel
Won-il Kim wrote stories about the agony of the division of the
Korean nation. He was born in Gimhae, South Gyeongsang
Province. After his father defected to North Korea, his family
moved to Daegu. He won the Contemporary Literature1) Prize for
his novel Spirit of Darkness (1973).
In 1988, he published his new novel House with a Sunken
Courtyard. The novel is about the lives of people right after the
Korean War.
It is almost an autobiographical novel of his life. It pictures the
social aspects of Korea in the eyes of a young boy, Gil-nam. The
book has been loved by Koreans and was made into a mini eight
episode TV series in 1990. It has also been translated and published
in French and Japanese.
The place the novel is set is Daegu, where Won-il Kim spent his
entire childhood. Readers can often find Jong-ro, Jin alleyway,
Janggwan-dong in the novel.
The house where the five families including Gil-nam’s family
were located is in the middle of the Medicine Market Street. If you
follow the narrow alleyway between Dong-jae-gook medicine store
and Sehwa parking lot, you can find the house, the house with a
sunken courtyard. The owner lived in the upper wing of the house
and the other five families rented and lived in the outer wings.
A painting is now drawn on the wall and it helps people to
recognize the house.
▲ The background location of the novel House with a Sunken Courtyard is inNamseong-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu as Won-il Kim remembered. The house with a sunkencourtyard has been torn down and tile roofed houses stand at the site. The four tileroofed houses are built forming a square.
1) A Korean literary magazine. The first publishment was January 1955. It introduces notonly novels but also poetry, drama, essays. The purpose of the magazine is to developKorean literature.
157CChhaapptteerr 1111.. House with a Sunken Courtyard156 Modern Alley
When you go farther down the alleyway towards Jong-ro Earth
House (a Korean style restaurant), you will find the Yangnyeongsi
Medicine Market East Entrance parking lot next to Janggwan villa.
The parking lot is where the house Won-il’s family first moved to
in Daegu. It is the place where Gil-nam’s mother first started
sewing for Gisaeng for a living. Won-il
Kim’s family moved six times around
Janggwan-dong.
If you head north, you will find Damsu
Society building. At that time, Damsu
house was the richest in the village. The
owner let the gate open so that children
could play around in the yard and he could
teach them Chinese characters.
Opposite to Damsu Society building is
Gyungshin Information Science High
School. Behind the school there is a house
where Won-il Kim lived for a long time.
On the east side, there is an old dumpling
(Man-du) restaurant with 40 year tradition
called Yeungsangduk and a convenience
store across from it. This was the place
where rationed rice was distributed.
Nowadays, this street is especially famous
for Chinese restaurants since many Chinese
immigrants lived in this area. There are a
dumpling restaurant and a huge motel
around where in the novel Gil-nam first saw
a fancy black car. The motel used to be the
biggest Chinese restaurant in town at that
time called Gunbang-gak.
Gil-nam would come to get water at
Chinese Elementary School in Daegu in the
▲A statue of Gil-nam, the main character of the novel House with a SunkenCourtyard is in front of the Chinese Elementary School in Daegu. The statue, madeby a sculptor Hyun-woo Lee, is named ‘A Dreaming Child.’ Gil-nam, full of hope, istaking a short break from delivering newspapers.
159CChhaapptteerr 1111.. House with a Sunken Courtyard158 Modern Alley
winter. Behind the school there is Jeong Pediatric Clinic. Many
children were treated at the clinic and Won-il Kim could recover
from a dire condition at the clinic as well.
In Jin alleyway, there are two famous restaurants: Baeknok
restaurant and Daechung Maru. Baeknok restaurant used to be one
of the top three Yojung restaurants in town but it has changed to a
Korean traditional restaurant. Daechung Maru is also a Korean
traditional restaurant.
It used to be the house that the president of Kolon Group, Won-
man Lee, lived in. At Daechung Maru, people can experience the
look of a traditional Korean-style house and the taste of traditional
Korean food as Won-il Kim did when he lived in the area.
▲ The work of Hyun-woo Lee named ‘The Mother’s Heart’ shows Gil-nam’s mothercarries her youngest boy on her back while waiting for Gil-nam who went out todeliver newspapers.
▲Won-il Kim, the writer of House with a Sunken Courtyard, visited Daegu inSeptember 2009. Recalling his childhood, he looked around both Namseong-ro andJong-ro. Won-il Kim visited Sang-hwa Lee's old house and was listening to anexplanation from Sun-young Yoon, head of Jung-gu office.
Chinese Residents’
Association
Chapter 12
Location Introduction
The final destinations of the second tour course are the Chinese Residents'
Association and Chinese Elementary School in Daegu. The Chinese
immigrants began to settle in Daegu from 1905. Their economic power
increased with preferential treatment from the US Military Government in
Korea. As a large number of the Chinese immigrants moved to Daegu from
Seoul and Incheon during the Korean War, they became more powerful.
After the war, they enjoyed a period of political stability until the 1960s. In
1967, the Chinese population in Daegu reached up to 3,108, which was the
highest number ever. However, the Chinese population rapidly decreased
in the 1970s because the Korean government tightened regulations on the
Chinese capital. Therefore, they moved to Taiwan, the United States, and
Australia in a large number.
The Chinese Residents' Association building was constructed in a western
red-brick style in 1929. Its sturdy outfit is quite impressive. Even after 80
years have passed, it still has great value as a cultural heritage because it
has been well preserved. The building is registered as a modern
architectural heritage in the modern architecture register. The Chinese
Elementary School decorated with Chinese style pictures and
ornamentations is located next to the Chinese Residents’ Association.
163CChhaapptteerr 1122.. Chinese Residents’ Association162 Modern Alley
Mun-Geum Mo was born in Sandong, China on October 28, 1895.
He came to Korea in 1912 and settled in Daegu when he was 20
years old. He operated an architecture company called Ssang-
heung-ho with his architecture mentor Eu-kwan Kang and built
Daegu’s representative religious buildings. The representative
buildings they built are St. Justino Catholic Seminary, Sisters of St.
Paul of Chartres, Seongmo-dang (Grotto of Our Lady of Lourdes),
St. Joseph Hospital, and Handerson Hall which is the main building
of Kiesung High School. After Eu-kwan Kang went back to China
in 1931, Mo broadened his business by operating Gunbang-gak, a
Chinese restaurant. In addition, Mo was an educator who paved the
way for Chinese education in Daegu.
●●Unexpected offer from his mentor Eu-kwan Kang
“Can you come to Daegu?” asked Eu-kwan Kang. He wanted
Mun-geum Mo, who had settled in Seoul for 7 years, to come to
Daegu to help him. Mun-geum Mo was surprised by the suggestion
of moving to a new city once again, so he couldn’t answer
immediately. However, Eu-kwan Kang was like a savior to him, so
his mental agony did not last long. “Okay, I will come to Daegu.”
In 1920, he moved to Daegu. As soon as he arrived in Daegu, he
accepted the position of vice-president at Kang’s company. While
he was working in Ssang-heung-ho, it grew rapidly.
The First-generation of Chineseimmigrants in Daegu disseminated‘Chinese architecture.’
▲ Handerson Hall, the main building of Kiesung High School in Daesin-dong, Jung-gu, Daegu, was built in 1931. Handerson, the fourth principal of Kiesung HighSchool, designed this building and Mun-Geum Mo, who operated an architecturecompany called Ssang-heung-ho, constructed its superstructure with some Chinesearchitectural craftsmen. The statue in the photo is James Adams who foundedKiesung High School.
▶ This is a picture taken whenHeo Chong a consul of theChinese Consulate General’sOffice in Seoul visited Daegu onJune 1, 1949. At the very left ofthe second line is Mun-GeumMo. He was a leader of theChinese community in Daegu atthat time.
165CChhaapptteerr 1122.. Chinese Residents’ Association164 Modern Alley
Additionally, they built Gyesan Cathedral priests’ office and the
Chinese Residents’ Association building. Due to their passion,
Ssang-heung-ho became the second largest Chinese architecture
company in Korea in the 1920s. Actually, their annual sales
increased from 7,000 yen in 1923 to 30,000 yen in 1928. Then, an
ethnic conflict occurred between Chinese farmers and Korean
farmers in Jirin, China in 1931. The news of the conflict spread to
Korea and caused anti-Chinese sentiment, even violent attacks
against the Chinese immigrants in Korea. After Eu-kwan Kang left
Korea, Mun-geum Mo became CEO of Ssang-heung-ho and gained
success in business since he cherished faithfulness and trust as the
best value.
●●Success of his Chinese restaurant Gunbang-gak
His construction business was successful beyond belief. However,
he had a hard time after his mentor had left for China. One day he
heard that the Chinese restaurant Gunbang-gak suffered from
managerial problems. He purchased the restaurant which was the
last architectural work of his mentor Eu-kwan Kang. He completely
remodeled the restaurant. On the first floor, a single menu of black
noodles, dumplings, sweet or sour pork was served; the second
floor with rooms and 180 chairs was for course cuisines; and the
third floor was a large hall for various events such as 60th birthday
parties, birthday parties, or new year’s receptions. Especially, it was
popular as a wedding venue in the early 1960s. The entrance sign
“China high restaurant” was quite impressive. The entrance of
Gunbang-gak was introduced in the Yeongnam Daily News in
February 1963 and it looked like a triumphal arch. It reminded
▲ The Shrine of Our Lady located at Namsan-dong, Jung-gu, Daegu was built in1918. This shrine became famous nationwide after it was known that the shrine is areplica of the Lourdes Grotto in France. The shrine was constructed by Eu-kwanKang and other Chinese engineers.
167CChhaapptteerr 1122.. Chinese Residents’ Association166 Modern Alley
However, the building was too small to accept all the children
who wanted to study. Principal Mun-guem Mo started to raise
funds to build a bigger school. He was not only a business man but
also an educator who laid the groundwork for the education of
Chinese children.
In 1912, Mun-geum Mo came to Korea bare-handed and is still
remembered as a key member of the first generation Chinese
migrants in Korea. He lived as an architect, businessman, and
educator. The historical buildings constructed by Mun-geum Mo
and Eu-kwan Kang still remain in Daegu. In the late 1960s, Mun-
geum Mo moved to and spent the rest of his life in Taiwan where
his family lived.
people of a traditional red Chinese gate ‘Paru”. Mun-geum Mo
became a key leader of the Chinese immigrants in Daegu because
of his success in business at Ssang-heung-ho and Gunbang-gak.
In the 1940s, he became concerned about the education of
Chinese children. Though the Chinese population in Daegu had
been increasing, they did not have a Chinese school. Therefore, he
set up a plan to build a school and began to raise funds in 1941. He
even visited the Chinese consulate in Busan to get help. Finally,
Daegu’s first Chinese Elementary School opened its doors in
February 1943 in the building of the Chinese Chamber of
Commerce, which was located across from the current Chinese
Residents’ Association.
▲ The Chinese Residents’ Association in Daegu is located in Jong-ro 2-ga, Jung-gu,Daegu. Mun-geum Mo took charge of design and construction of this building. Atfirst this building was built as a house of Byeong-guk Seo who was a rich person inDaegu. Now it is used as the office of the Chinese Residents’ Association in Daegu.