Embed Size (px)
Citation preview
1
INDIVIDUAL
ASSIGNMENT
Module Title: Fashion Advertising
Lecturer: Ms. Yumin Kim
Student Name: Hilda Tiolanda
Student ID: 001T1110
2
1.0 INTRODUCTION
1.1 The Chosen Company
COMPANY PROFILE
The brand Diesel was born more than 20 years ago and is today an innovative
international design company, manufacturing jeans and casual clothing as well as
accessories.
When Renzo Rosso founded the company in 1978, he wanted it to be a
leader, a company which took chances and carved out a niche for itself in its field. He
surrounded himself with creative, talented people -‐ innovators who, like him,
rejected the slavish trend-‐following typical of the fashion industry. Renzo wanted to
come up with a more dynamic and imaginative line of clothing than was available
anywhere. He gave his open-‐minded new designers broad stylistic freedom, hoping
they could create a line of clothing perfect for people who follow their own
independent path in life. Particularly for those who decide to express their
individuality also by the way they dress. The name "Diesel" was chosen as an avant-‐
garde symbol of oil crisis of the 70's and as an international word that could bring
jeans brand worldwide success.
3
LABEL OVERVIEW
Designer Profile (Founder)
In the case of Diesel, the individual who has powered the company's growth
is Renzo Rosso. Born in 1955 in the northeast of Italy, he attended an industrial
textile manufacturing school and after graduating in 1975, began making his own
clothing. In 1978 he joined forces with several other manufactures in his region to
form the Genius Group, which created many successful brands still widely known
today, such as Katherine Hamnett, Goldie, Martin Guy, Goldie, Ten Big Boys and, of
course, Diesel. In 1985 Renzo took complete control of Diesel by buying out the
other partners and becoming the sole force behind the brand. Thereafter the
company began a period of remarkable growth and expansion.
It was thus that, in 1996, Renzo Rosso and Diesel received the "Premio
Risultati" award from the prestigious Bocconi Institute in Milan for being the "Best
Italian Company of the Year". Renzo was also nominated by American Ernst & Young
as "Entrepreneur of the Year" for 1997 for the company's strong moves in the U.S. In
December 1997, the English music and trend magazine "Select" included Renzo in a
special classification of the 100 most important people in the world who will
contribute to the shape of the new Millennium.
Renzo is an idealistic, passionate man whose motto is "Diesel is not my
company, it's my life".
4
Creative Director and Head Designer (1998 – 2009)
Diesel's Creative Director and head designer is Wilbert Das who has worked for
Diesel since 1988. Wilbert started as a designer on the Male, Accessories, Leather,
and Kids lines. He rose quickly to head the style office and creative areas of Diesel,
and in 1993 was given the official title of Creative Director, with responsibilities
ranging from directing all product design as well as all communication campaigns.
From clothing and accessory design to advertising, new media, merchandising, retail
and interior design (including stores, showrooms, offices, hotels), planning of fashion
shows and events, as well as developing new brand extensions such as house ware,
furniture and even automobiles. Literally all aspects of the Diesel brand’s style and
image fell under Wilbert’s responsibility.
Wilbert Das left Diesel in late 2009 amid rumors of irreconcilable differences with
CEO Rosso over the future direction of the company.
5
Current Designer (2009 – Now)
Greek designer Sophia Kokosalaki is to take the design helm of Diesel's Black Gold
line. "Kokosalaki’s talent is incredible. Her taste in high end fashion is already
known, but what people do not necessarily expect from her is her skill in dealing
with denim and contemporary casual, the core of Diesel Black Gold," says Renzo
Rosso, chairman of Diesel and its holding company, Only the Brave. Positioned above
the brand's Diesel and Diesel Denim Gallery offerings, Diesel Black Gold -‐ which uses
more expensive fabrics -‐ made its debut during New York Fashion Week in February
2008.
6
1.2 The Project and Objectives
Fundamentally, the project requires a definite fashion company or brand,
which in this case I have particularly picked the brand named as Diesel. I selected
Diesel because Diesel is a brand that has gained a huge part in youth culture and
urban fashion. The brand’s innovative denim lines, various clothing collections and
accessories are more than just popular fashions that appeal to everybody.
Due to its constant struggle for excellence, Diesel has become an emblem for
a dynamic and independent lifestyle. For 21 years, Diesel has relentlessly pioneered
new styles, experimented with fabrics and manufacturing methods to produce
outstanding garments
The objective of this project are stated below:
1. To be able to identify elements of great advertising.
2. To be able to understand the roles in creative industry & target audience.
3. To be able to identify available advertising platform for creative business as
well as examine their efficiency and effectiveness.
4. To be able to identify the key players in advertising world.
5. To be able to understand the importance of ethical issues that play roles in
creative industry.
6. To be able to show an understanding of communication process
7
2.0 STRATEGY
Brand Image
Beginning as a company that is focused on making quality clothing. Diesel has
been a part of youth culture for the past 30 years and has that special something
which continues to appeal. It is best known for clothing aimed at the young adult
market, especially fans of denim jeans. The Diesel brand also put their name to
underwear, perfume and other popular accessories such as belts and wallets.
The Diesel brand, is now international, they produce a wide range of
products from clothes which they design themselves to aftershave where the brand
name is licensed out. This is a company which innovated in both design and
production methods, by creating new ways of making fabric and making the final
product. Diesel have their brand in more than 80 countries and in excess of 5,000
points of sale. They have just over 300 independently own store, which only sell
Diesel, the largest of which can be would in Milan, Italy.
Marketing Plot
In recent years the company has driven its attention to endorsing young
creativity by sponsoring several projects such as the Diesel-‐U-‐Music Contest. Diesel
has been the founding partner of International Talent Support in its various forms.
Diesel has also offered sponsorship and creative contribution to the 2006 edition of
Vienna's Life Ball AIDS charity, as well as the Sundance Film Festival.
Diesel's innovative approach to marketing has let it to be perhaps the first
clothing company to market their clothing in video games, and has developed
innovative approaches to fashion shows.
In December 2008, Diesel announced a marketing partnership with Sony
Computer Entertainment Europe, to sell their designs in Sony's virtual world,
Playstation Home with the majority of the proceeds going to the OTBF Only The
Brave Foundation (Diesel's charitable arm).
A November 2009 New York Post article mentions that "the CEO of the
8
fashion house's US division, Steve Birkhold, has resigned to join a rival firm."
According to the Post, Birkhold was allegedly attempting to secure deals to expand
the Diesel brand into U.S. chain stores like Macy's, while Diesel's Italy execs feared
such a move would dilute the brand's image.
In 2010 from its headquarters in Breganze, it directly manages 18 subsidiaries
across Europe, Asia and the Americas. It is now present in more than 80 countries
with 5,000 points of sale, including more than 400 company owned stores.
Diesel is part of the holding Only the Brave, which also incorporates 55DSL (a
brand strongly linked to street wear and urban culture); Staff International (an Italian
company that manufactures and distributes clothing for brands such as Diesel Denim
Gallery, Maison Martin Margiela, DSquared2, Vivienne Westwood, Viktor & Rolf and
Marc Jacobs Menswear); and controlling stakes in Maison Martin Margiela and
Viktor and Rolf.
9
3.0 TARGET AUDIENCES & THE PROCESS
Target Audiences
Given its rejection of traditional “Procterian” marketing and even of market
research, it was not surprising that Diesel had no precise definition of the target
audiences. In Rosso’s view, lifestyle mattered more than age. Diesel targeted people
with a teenage-‐ spirited lifestyle. Anybody interested in this lifestyle could become a
target customer. In reality, 18 to 25-‐year-‐olds clearly outnumbered 35 to 50-‐year-‐
olds in the Diesel customer base. Trendy young people over 25 often considered
Diesel “too young” or “too hip-‐hop” for them.
The Process
Before 1991 Diesel was a typical young design company. It focused all its
energy on launching new products (about 1,800 new references per year) and did
not even have a consistent brand logo. Starting in 1991, Maurizio Marchiori, the
newly-‐appointed advertising director, developed a global branding campaign in-‐
house with the help of Paradiset, a Swedish advertising agency. The campaign
appropriated the “products make better living” theme popular among advertisers in
the 50s and turned it on its head in the “Diesel for Successful Living” campaign.
Diesel’s vision of consumer paradise was to be interpreted ironically; the standard
promise of “success” was exaggerated, made absurd, even mocked. Serious themes
seemed to be lurking everywhere in the adverts but were undercut by a final
admission that it was all just a joke.
Diesel advertising campaigns were artistic, colourful and sexy—as fashion
advertising often is—but they were clearly differentiated by their themes,
complexity and radical irony. The ads were not only visually shocking, they clearly
established Diesel as a counterpoint to established norms and institutions. Diesel ads
were often confusing, sometimes intriguing and, as a result, highly exclusive. They
required wit and involvement to be deciphered. Many were left perplexed or failed
to see the underlying irony. The few who understood Diesel’s sense of humour could
10
feel a real sense of complicity between them and the brand. Thankfully for Diesel,
many of these were wealthy teenagers looking for clothes that would stand out and
distinguish them from the crowd.
Kylie Minogue in Diesel Jeans
11
Zac Efron wearing Diesel jeans
Mischa Barton in Diesel shorts
12
Taylor Lautner in Diesel Jeans
13
4.0 ADVERTISING CAMPAIGN
4.1 Campaign 1
Label: Diesel Jeans
Season: Spring/Summer 2010
Campaign: Diesel ‘Be Stupid’
Photographer: Jason Nocito
“Be Smart” – that is what our parents and teachers told us since we were young.
While Diesel, takes “Be Stupid” as its philosophy.
Diesel Stupid Philosophy
Like balloons, we are filled with hopes and dreams. But. Over time a single sentence
creeps into our lives. Don’t be stupid. It’s the crusher of possibility. It’s the worlds
greatest deflator. The world is full of smart people. Doing all kind of smart things…
Thats smart. Well, we’re with stupid. Stupid is the relentless pursuit of a regret free
life. Smart may have the brains… but stupid has the balls. The smart might recognize
things for how they are. The stupid see things for how they could be. Smart critiques.
Stupid creates. The fact is if we didnt have stupid thoughts wed have no interesting
thoughts at all. Smart may have the plans… but stupid has the stories. Smart may
have the authority but stupid has one hell of a hangover. Its not smart to take risks…
Its stupid. To be stupid is to be brave. The stupid isnt afraid to fail. The stupid know
there are worse things than failure… like not even trying. Smart had one good idea,
and that idea was stupid. You can’t outsmart stupid. So don’t even try. Remember
only stupid can be truly brilliant.
( Source from Diesel )
14
15
16
17
4.2 Campaign 2
Label: Diesel Jeans
Season: Denim Spring/Summer 2010 Collection
Campaign: “Sex Sells *Unfortunately We Sell Jeans”
Photographer: Miko Lim
Models: Martin Cannavo, Sam Way, Tobias Sorensen and Dan Cameron
Diesel continues to push the advertising envelope with their campaign for Spring
2010 tagged "Sex Sells *Unfortunately We Sell Jeans". Following up on their "Be
Stupid" campaign these ads garner the brand attention amongst consumers while
being sexy and having enough humor to them to be appreciated by the masses.
The pictures feature young girls and men half naked with perfect pairs of jeans on
them. The postures are very tempting as if we caught the models on something
which was going to be obscene.
18
19
20
4.3 Campaign 3
Label: Diesel Jeans
Season: Summer/Spring 2007
Campaign: “Global Warming Ready”
Photographer: Terry Richardson
For this “Global Warming Ready” campaign, A series of newspaper, magazine and
billboard advertisements shows models posing in Diesel clothing in a world affected
by raised water levels and temperatures.
Diesel’s marketing staff sees the “Global Warming Ready” campaign as consistent
with Diesel’s tradition of generating attention and provoking discussion of serious
societal issues with a tongue-‐in-‐cheek ironic voice. “Global Warming Ready” portrays
the potential look of this new world while representing it in an aesthetically
beautiful way.
Global Warming Ready” at first glance appears to be just another fashion
advertisement. On second glance the campaign appears to be an arrogant swipe at
the concerns of environmentalists. Wealthy people will continue to buy fashionable
clothing even in a world affected by climatic disaster.
21
Tropical birds in St Mark’s Square, Venice
Sandy desert overtakes the China Wall
22
Tropical plants growing in Paris
Rio de Janeiro underwater
23
New York City submerged
Beach scene at Mt Rushmore
24
London a water playground
Summer holidays with the penguins in Antarctica
25
4.4 Campaign 4
Label: Diesel Jeans
Season: Fall/Winter 2007
Campaign: “Human After All”
Photographer: Johan Renck
“Human After All" is one of the advertising campaigns for Diesel denim. The seven
frames take us into a technology ruled future as opposing to the "Fuel for Life"
Diesel fragrance ads. A future that is still human as this clever Diesel ad accentuates.
Even though technology takes big steps as clones' nurseries, teleportation and space
ships will be common aspects of life, some things will never change and that implies
the human nature. Error and emotion will stay the same -‐ flight delays, car
breakdowns, balls breaking glass, ugly breakups, and young, beautiful humans
wearing sexy Diesel jeans.
26
27
28
29
5.0 THE CRITICS (ETHICAL ISSUE)
Diesel has always been known to have edgy ad campaigns. But their most
controversial one to date would have to be their new “Be Stupid” campaign. The
campaign has been banned by the UK ad watchdog (ASA) for being offensive and
encouraging antisocial behavior. The campaign featured a number of ads including
one with a girl on a stepladder flashing her breasts at a CCTV camera, while another
features a woman holding open her bikini bottoms and taking a photo of her nether
regions. It is said that the ASA received 33 complaints about Diesel's posters, which
fell into three categories. First that they should not be seen by children, second that
they were offensive and third that they encouraged anti-‐social behaviour.
Another controversial campaign that has been raising the heat would be the
‘Global Warming Campaign”. A lot of people think that this campaign has a shock
value, it seems to underestimate the actual Global Warming effect to the world.
However, Diesel said that the campaign is actually made to present global warming
in a more positive context, that global warming might just not be such a bad thing.
Diesel’s latest campaign, “Sex sells* Unfortunately we sell jeans”, is not less
controversial compared to their previous campaigns. The campaign features young
girls and men half naked with only a pair of jeans on them. This campaign is assumed
to be too provocative and obscene.
Leave it to Diesel to create a campaign that is both forwards and provocative,
a campaign that plays on people’s sensitivities. However, these controversial and
provocative campaign actually giving them precisely what they want, brand
awareness.
30
6.0 O THER SUPPORTING COMMUNICATION TOOLS
The Diesel style was also evident in other forms of communication. Great
attention was given to product placement among actors, musicians and celebrities
(although Diesel never paid the stars and almost never gave away the products to
them). Diesel garments featured in many popular and independent movies such as
“Godzilla”, “Lethal Weapon”, “Crime and Punishment in High School”, or “Anywhere
But Here”.
Diesel was one of the first clothing companies on the Internet, opening the
www.diesel.com site in 1995. The site contained information about Diesel clothing
collections and its licenses,
In 1994, Diesel built The Pelican Hotel in South Beach, Miami, which was to
become a vivid manifestation of the Diesel philosophy. All 25 rooms in the hotel
were designed and decorated to feel like surreal movie sets: each filled with recycled
furniture and named after its own style, e.g. the Psychedelic room, Halfway to
Hollywood and Me Tarzan (see Exhibit 5). The hotel became a hit with the fashion,
music and publishing set. Celebrities such as Cindy Crawford, Grace Jones, Yoko Ono
and John F. Kennedy Jr. stayed there.
Diesel participated in the production of video games for Sony PlayStation,
Nintendo and personal computers. It contributed the Diesel for Successful Living
logo and other creative content to new video game releases, such as Psygnosis’ hits
“G-‐Police I & II”, Acclaim’s “Shadow Man” and “Extreme G II”.
31
http://www.designboom.com/eng/interview/rosso.html
http://www.couturecandy.com/diesel/designer.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel_(brand)
http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/daily/090617-‐sophia-‐kokosalaki-‐
becomes-‐lead-‐desi.aspx
http://faculty.insead.edu/chandon/personal_page/Documents/Case_Di
esel%202007_corrected-‐w.pdf
http://meetthefamous.com/celebrity-‐
closet/fashion_article.php?ID=1380
http://www.denimology.com/2009/09/kylie_minogue_in_diesel_jeans.p
hp
http://www.denimology.com/2010/05/taylor_lautner_in_diesel_jeans_
4.php
http://awake-‐smile.blogspot.com/2008_07_01_archive.html
http://www.creativeadawards.com/diesel-‐be-‐stupid-‐advertising-‐
campaign/
http://www.nitrolicious.com/blog/2010/01/22/diesel-‐be-‐stupid-‐spring-‐
summer-‐2010-‐ad-‐campaign/
http://artatm.com/2010/03/awesome-‐be-‐stupid-‐advertising-‐campaign-‐
of-‐diesel/
32
http://www.denimology.com/2010/02/diesel_sex_sells.php
http://www.millionlooks.com/outfits/sex-‐sells-‐–-‐diesel-‐campaign/
http://www.bkrw.com/news/diesel-‐sex-‐sells-‐spring-‐summer-‐2010-‐
denim-‐campaign.html
http://theinspirationroom.com/daily/2007/diesel-‐global-‐warming-‐
ready/
http://www.adverbox.com/ads/diesel-‐global-‐warming-‐campaign/
http://www.notcot.com/archives/2007/02/global-‐warming.php
http://www.hautfashion.com/fashion-‐ads/diesel-‐human-‐after-‐all-‐
campaign
http://theverychronicles.blogspot.com/2007/10/human-‐after-‐all-‐diesel-‐
fall-‐winter-‐07.html
http://www.notcot.com/archives/2007/07/diesel-‐human-‐af.php
http://www.thefirstpost.co.uk/65209,news-‐comment,news-‐
politics,diesel-‐jeans-‐be-‐stupid-‐flashing-‐women-‐poster-‐adverts-‐banned-‐
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/10456704
http://www.guardian.co.uk/media/2010/jun/30/diesel-‐asa-‐advertising
http://www.florencenewspaper.it/vediarticolo.asp?news=b0.07.20.10.0
7
33
