Page 46

FULL CIRCLE:

Carnaby Street

swings into action

LONDON | ЛОНДОН | 伦敦 | لندن

LO

ND

ON

Sty

le Editio

n S

prin

g/Su

mm

er 2015

Discovera worlD of beauty

At John Lewis Oxford Street

we’ve got all the make up

and beauty tools you need

to create your perfect look.

Our commitment to value means that we match the prices of high street competitors

See our ‘Never Knowingly Undersold’ leafet in our shops or online for details.

this excludes online-only or mail order businesses). Service conditions must be comparable.

HOBBS

112-1 15 lOng acre lOndOn wc2e 9pa

HOBBS.cOm

EDITOR’S LETTER

12

Emma Cheevers

@shopcontent

/globalblue/globalblue

@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

@GlobalBlue

/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu

Athens and Thessaloniki

Austria

Austrian Alps

Barcelona

Belgium

Berlin

Buenos Aires

Cologne

Copenhagen

Чехия

Düsseldorf

Estonia

Frankfurt

French Riviera

دليل ألانيا德国指南

Руководство Германия

Gothenburg

Hamburg

Hanover

Helsinki Area

Holland

Istanbul

Italy

Lake Saimaa

Lebanon

London

Madrid

Milan

Munich

Nuremburg

Oslo

Paris

巴黎

Portugal

Prague

Riga

Rimini and Riccione

Rome

Seoul

Singapore

Stockholm

Stuttgart

Switzerland

Tokyo

Vienna

Vilnius

Welcome to London

Let SHOP reveal a surprising side of London.

Read about expert British tailor, Edward Sexton

(page 54), cutting-edge jewellery designer

Charlotte Valkeniers (page 38), and much more.

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free

Shopping market leader that helps you save up

to 11% when shopping in the UK. We publish

guides to over 40 destinations across Europe

and Asia. Our international insider knowledge

means we are ideally placed to tell you about the

top global brands you’ll fnd in London. For the

very latest information, visit globalblue.com.

Be sure to sign up for your free Global Blue

Card for the simplest way to shop tax free

without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand,

and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts

and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

ILLU

ST

RAT

ION

: IS

AA

C B

ON

AN

globalblue.com

CONTRIBUTORS

Fernando Volken Togni

Brazilian illustrator Fernando

Volken Togni created this season’s

cover illustration for SHOP Lon-

don Style. His intricate and co-

lourful style makes him the perfect

choice for this cover, which is based

on London’s vibrant and legendary

fashion hotspot Carnaby Street,

and takes infuence from 1960s

psychedelic album art. Read more

about the Carnaby Street area and

its history on page 46. Fernando

has created artwork for Hermès,

Google and Orange among others.

Find out more about our illustrations

at globalblue.com/covers.

Josh Sims

For this edition of SHOP London

Style, freelance journalist and editor

Josh Sims meets the famous Brit-

ish tailor Edward Sexton. As well

as writing for SHOP, he contributes

to publications including the Finan-

cial Times, Independent, Observer,

Wallpaper and Esquire. Josh’s lat-

est book is Icons of Women’s Style,

published in April 2015.

Dionne Hélène

Dionne Hélène is employed as an

artworking assistant for SHOP

magazine. She is a sneaker enthusi-

ast and in her spare time she works

for Europe’s largest sneaker festival,

Crepe City. She has also created

work for Nike and the V&A. Dionne

enjoys sketching, collecting vintage

Ralph Lauren items and listening to

Action Bronson.

ILL

US

TR

AT

ION

: FE

RN

AN

DO

VO

LK

EN

TO

GN

I

14

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue

SHOP FLOOR

E DI TOR I A L

Editor-in-chief

Emma Cheevers

PU BL I SH I NG

Publisher

James Morris

GL OBA L BLU E U K

Vice-president sales northern Europe

Richard Brown

Country manager

Gordon Clark

UK sales manager

Peter Blake

UK marketing sales manager

Tammy Fraser

Marketing account manager

Kimberly Urbaniak

Marketing sales executive

Abbie Elphick

International key account managers

Barbara Badelt,

Richard Harvey

Key account managers

Sarah Farag, Jerry Junkere,

Ashish Obhrai, Sunni Sokhi

Account managers

Saish Balakashnan,

Daroon Hamdi,

Nikhita Hyett,

Victoria Trimble

Chief Executive Officer

David Baxby

Chief Traveller Officer

Craig Le Grice

SHOP is published by

Global Blue

Group headquarters

Global Blue SA,

Route de Crassier 7,

CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland

Corporate registration number

5565726923

globalblue.com

info@globalblue.com

Managing editor

Sally McIlhone

Cover illustrator

Fernando Volken Togni

Contributors

Maria Kirchen-Hill,

Josh Sims

Production editor

Caterina Mazzolai

Assistant production editor

Ruairidh Pritchard

Production assistant

Katie Muxworthy

Features editor

Verity Hogan

City guide and lifestyle editor

Isabella Redmond Styles

Fashion editor

Ximena Daneri

News editor

Hannah Lewis

Fashion and news assistant

Theresa Harold

Fashion co-ordinator

Fani Mari

Fashion and news intern

Rebecca Fearn

Chief sub-editor

Hester Lacey

Copy editors

Katie Davis, Sue Flook,

Claire Gervat,

Ann Morphew,

Harriet O’Brien

Picture editor

Kirsty Andrews

Creative editor/

Deputy picture editor

Sarah Beyts

Assistant picture editor

Grace Bird

Picture assistants

Mónica R Goya, Sarah Walker

Art direction

Design by S-T

Artwork editor

Adam Dhaliwal

Artworking assistants

Dionne Hélène,

Milkha Lala,

George Trinick

Artworking intern

Samantha Junak

Online managing editor

Kirsty Welsh

Online production assistant

Marina Nelson

Online assistant

Emily Scrivener

Chinese editor

Yuan Fang

Associate Chinese editor

Junjie Dou

Chinese contributing editor

Qingya He

Chinese editorial assistants

Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liang

Chinese translators

Xun Ji, Yin Shi,

Chenguang Yi, Yi Zhang

Russian editor

Anastasia Nemchenok

Associate Russian editor

Daria Orlova

Russian translators

Diana Fitkulina, Teena

Garnik, Gary Ramazanov

Arabic editor

Haneen Malaeb

Print

Dane Consultancy

Commercial editor

Gemma Latham

Commercial artworking assistant

Aaron Carline

AVP business development

manager

Patrice Janet

Head of digital

Eamonn Leacy

Digital campaign manager

Nina Kobalia

Digital marketing executive

Wenhan Zhang

Digital marketing intern

Anastasia Budieva

Product manager

Devesh Sankadecha

Digital intern

Sammy Ha

Advertising and

partnership manager

Riccardo Canini

16

LONDON | 49 Jermyn Street | Tel. +44 207.629.24.95

| 28 Sloane Square | Tel. +44 207.823.50.44

18

globalblue.com

PRODUC TS

20 Check Out

SHOP selects a standout piece

from London this season

24 My Favourites

Anna Murray, founder of

Patternity, reveals her top tips

for spring/summer 2015

26 Products

Key looks for the season,

from fashion and footwear to

jewellery and accessories

32 Street Style

Our pick of London’s best-

dressed men for spring/

summer 2015

N E WS

35 Shop Window

One store not to be missed

in London

36 News

Seasonal updates on shops,

services and new products

44 In Store …

… with Brix Smith-Smart in

her intriguing Start London

womenswear boutique

F E AT U R E S

46 Cover Story:

The Cool Quarter

One part of central London

has encapsulated British

style since the 1960s and

remains just as popular today.

Verity Hogan takes a tour of

Carnaby Street

CONTENTS

54 Revolution By Design

Savile Row rebel Edward

Sexton is bringing his

distinctive style of tailoring

to a new ready-to-wear range,

discovers Josh Sims

E X PE R I E NCE

62 Table Talk

We visit some of London’s

most exciting food trucks

and street stalls

GU I DE

69 Maps and guides to

the key shopping areas

of London

84 My City

Chef David Philpot shares

his London recommendations

E SSE N T I A L S

88 How To Shop Tax Free

The simple steps to saving

money on your shopping

T R A NSL AT IONS

89 Русский Перевод

95 美文翻译

103

POSTC A R D

104 SHOP writes home

about Penhaligon’s

20 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

CHECK OUT

modern and fresh Swedish fea-

tures with British elements. The

black and gold face is minimalis-

tic, while the vibrant red strap is

made from British leather. As with

all items from Larsson & Jennings,

this timepiece is unisex, making it

a perfect gift for men or women. rf

Larsson & Jennings Läder

watch, £250, Larsson & Jennings,

53 Monmouth Street,

London WC2H 9DG,

+44 (0)20 7836 9707,

larssonandjennings.com

* for map go to page 83

QUALITY TIME

Inspired by two very stylish cities,

Stockholm and London, Larsson

& Jennings has become a go-to

destination for those looking for

fashionable and afordable watch-

es since its founding in 2012. Its

dedication to a minimal aesthetic

results in sophisticated timepieces

featuring elegant and clean lines.

The water-resistant Läder watch

refects the brand’s desire to fuse

WITH CURV® TECHNOLOGY

THE STRONGEST AND LIGHTEST

SAMSONITE EVER

Available from:

Samsonite Company Store, Bicester Village

Samsonite Company Store, Cheshire Oaks Designer Outlet

JS Trunk & CoWestfield, London

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

Photographer and art director Anna Murray

co-founded Patternity with product designer

Grace Winteringham. The women have

set up an online image archive dedicated to

pattern and also ofer a pattern research and

consultancy service, working with clients such

as Apple, Céline, Nike and the BBC. Here

Anna shares her London shopping tips with

Gemma Latham

patternity.org

2. ‘In return for

designing a friend’s

wedding invitation, I

was bought a bottle

of Penhaligon’s Opus

1870 fragrance. The

scent makes me feel

like I’m stepping back

in time’

Penhaligon’s Opus 1870

eau de toilette, 100ml,

£85, Penhaligon’s, 41 Wellington Street, London WC2E 7BN, +44 (0)20 7240 6256, penhaligons.com

1. ‘Darkroom

carefully curates

quality ranges

by emerging

craftspeople and

artisans who draw

inspiration from

design history’

Darkroom, 52 Lamb’s Conduit Street, London WC1N 3LL, +44 (0)20 7831 7244, darkroomlondon.com

MY FAVOURITES: Anna Murray

24 | PRODUC TS

1

2

globalblue.com

SHOP | 25

3. ‘We collaborated

with ceramic specialist

Richard Brendon on

a range of tea items

inspired by British

culture. The teapot

in bold navy stripes

merges tradition with

innovation and is

very London’

Patternity x Richard

Brendon teapot, £185,Wolf & Badger, 32 Dover Street, London W1S 4NE, +44 (0)20 3627 3191, richardbrendon.com

4. ‘Mary Katrantzou's

spring/summer

collection is a nod

to the beauty of

the natural world.

It’s refreshing to

see pieces that

are reminiscent

of rippling coral

and lichens’

Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, +44 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)113 369 8040 (international), marykatrantzou.com

5. ‘I don’t go

anywhere without my

Canon G16 camera

so I can constantly

capture new ideas and

inspirations wherever

I am’

Canon Powershot G16

Camera, £334.99,London Camera Exchange, 98 Strand, London WC2R 0EW, +44 (0)20 7379 0200, canon.com

3 5

4

PH

OTO

S: (

4) B

RIT

ISH

FA

SH

ION

CO

UN

CIL

; (5)

CA

NO

N IN

C.

26 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

PH

OTO

: (5)

RO

RY

T S

EDD

ON

4. Hobbs bag, £149,

Hobbs, 112-115 Long Acre,

London WC2E 9PA,

+44 (0)20 7836 0625, hobbs.co.uk

5. Olivia Burton watch, £125,

Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street,

London W1A 1AB, 0800 123400 (UK),

+44 (0)113 369 8040 (international),

oliviaburton.com

1. Mango sandals, £69.99,

Mango, 225-235 Oxford Street,

London W1D 2LP, +44 (0)20 7534 3505,

mango.com

2. Judy Wu jacket, £420,

Wolf & Badger, 32 Dover Street,

London W1S 4NE, +44 (0)20 3627 3191,

judywu.co.uk

3. Cos earrings, £15,

Cos, 222 Regent Street,

London W1B 5BD, +44 (0)20 7478 0400,

cosstores.com

2

1

3

4

5

FLORA AND FAUNA

Take inspiration from

the natural world with this

palm tree print jacket

and embossed bee watch

SHOP | 27

globalblue.com

PH

OTO

: (2)

© A

NTF

AR

M P

HO

TOG

RA

PH

Y

4. Z Zegna Techmerino Racer

trainers, £270, Ermenegildo Zegna,

37-38 New Bond Street,

London W1S 2RU, +44 (0)20 7518 2700,

zegna.com

5. Barbour jacket, £429, Barbour,

29 Foubert’s Place, London W1F 7QF,

+44 (0)20 7434 3209, barbour.com

1. Hedon helmet, £299, Trunk Clothiers,

8 Chiltern Street, London W1U 7PU,

+44 (0)20 7486 2357, hedon.com

2. Dunhill eau de toilette, 100ml, £73,

Dunhill, Bourdon House, 2 Davies Street,

London W1K 3DJ, +44 (0)20 7853 4440,

dunhill.com

3. Moncler sunglasses, £250,

Moncler, 197 Sloane Street,

London SW1X 9QX,

+44 (0)20 7235 0857, moncler.com

THE GREAT

OUTDOORS

Bring the countryside to the

city with these stylish staples

1

2

4

3

5

28 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

3. Ugg Australia sandals, £120,

Ugg Australia, 10 Glasshouse Street,

London W1B 5AR, +44 (0)20 7112 7771,

uggaustralia.co.uk

4. Gvyn bag, £349,

Harvey Nichols, 109-125 Knightsbridge,

London SW1X 7RJ, +44 (0)20 7235 5000,

gvyn.com

1. Marie France Van Damme kaftan,

£400, Marie France Van Damme,

177 Draycott Avenue, London SW3 3AL,

+44 (0)20 7584 4843,

mariefrancevandamme.com

2. JCM London earrings, £375,

JCM London, 45 Beauchamp Place,

London SW3 1NX, +44 (0)20 7581 1711,

jcmlondon.com

1

2

3

4

MODERN

BOHEMIAN

During the longer days

and balmy nights, bring

out your free spirit

SHOP | 29

globalblue.com

3. Acqua di Parma Rosa Nobile

fragrance, 75ml, £68,

Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street,

London W1A 1AB, 0800 123400 (UK),

+44 (0)113 369 8040 (international),

acquadiparma.com

4. Chanel Rouge Coco lipstick

in Mademoiselle, £26, Harrods,

87-135 Brompton Road,

London SW1X 7XL,

+44 (0)20 7730 1234, chanel.com

1. Peter Pilotto dress, £620,

Browns, 24-27 South Molton Street,

London W1K 5RD,

+44 (0)20 7514 0016,

peterpilotto.com

2. Danielle Foster bag, £310,

69B Boutique,

69B Broadway Market,

London E8 4PH,

+44 (0)20 7249 9655,

daniellefoster.co.uk

SUMMER

IN THE CITY

Bold prints always

make a statement

1

2

3 4

STREET STYLE

32 | ST R E E T ST Y L E

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

The city has always embraced vibrant and personal styles, and at London Fashion Week the best dressed chose bright colours and punchy prints. From art-inspired printed dresses to Miu Miu’s clear plastic boots, the lesson was clear: more is more

PH

OTO

S: M

ELA

NIE

GA

LEA

/TH

ES

TR

EE

TM

US

E.IT

SHOP | 33

globalblue.com

OXFORD STREET

388 Oxford Street

W1C 1JT

JERMYN STREET

103–108 Jermyn Street

SW1Y 6EQ

REGENT STREET

126 Regent Street

W1B 5SD

tmlewin.co.uk

NEWS | 35

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

SHOP WINDOW

your pair of boots, take advantage

of Timberland’s customisation

service to make yours truly per-

sonal. In addition, once a month a

London-based artist will be invited

to add their own fair to Timber-

land’s items, many of which will be

available to purchase, making un-

forgettable souvenirs. hl

Timberland, 144 Regent Street,

London W1B 5SQ,

+44 (0)20 7494 9588,

timberland.com

* for map go to page 78

SUITED AND BOOTED

Famous for its workers’ boots, Tim-

berland is steadily cementing its po-

sition as an all-round lifestyle label.

Discover the full range of men’s,

women’s and children’s clothing at

the brand’s newly opened fagship

store on Regent Street, a vast space

where Timberland’s aesthetic meets

London style. Once you’ve selected

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

36 | N E WS

EASTERN PROMISE

Multibrand boutique Glass-

works has opened a new store in

Dalston, not far from the retailer’s

original shop in Shoreditch. The

new space stocks Glassworks’ own

streetwear-inspired designs, with

young and edgy women in mind.

Footwear and accessories are also

available to complete the look.

This trend-driven store will appeal

to visitors who are seeking a truly

east London retail experience. The

interior oozes modernity, with ex-

posed brick, dark wooden foors,

white walls and iron railings show-

casing the cool clothing. rf

Glassworks,

78 Stoke Newington Road,

London N16 7XB,

+44 (0)8454 100110,

glassworks-studios.com

HOMEWARE WITH HISTORY

Bring some British heritage into

your life with the Merchant Fox.

The label uses cloth from the Fox

Brothers wool and cloth mill, which

was founded in 1772 and is one of

the few remaining working mills

in Britain. Renowned for the fnest

materials and expert craftsman-

ship, Fox Brothers supplies luxury

fabrics to royalty, aristocracy, Sav-

ile Row tailors and London fashion

houses. The Merchant Fox com-

bines a discerning eye for quality

with timeless and exquisite design to

create homewares, clothing, leather

goods, luggage and accessories. We

especially like the interiors range

which includes furniture, as well as

the smaller items such as cushions,

throws and candles, which are per-

fect suitcase-friendly souvenirs. gl

SHOP | 37

globalblue.com

ALL IN STORE

Located in the picturesque

Royal Borough of Kingston-up-

on-Thames, Bentalls is one of the

area’s best-stocked department

stores and is well worth a visit. Just

30 minutes by train from Waterloo

station, the store has a large range

of clothing for men, women and

children as well as a beauty depart-

ment and homewares. Look out for

Bentalls’ expansive handbag sec-

tion which stocks pieces by high-

end brands such as Michael Kors,

Mulberry, Coach and Marc by

Marc Jacobs. mkh

Bentalls,

Wood Street,

Kingston upon Thames,

London KT1 1TX,

+44 (0)20 8546 1001,

bentalls.co.uk

Liberty, Regent Street,

London W1B 5AH,

+44 (0)20 7734 1234,

themerchantfox.co.uk

* for map go to page 78

PH

OT

O: C

MA

CD

FO

TO

38 | NEWS

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

GEOMETRIC JEWELLERY

East London is known to foster

some of the most exciting design

talent in the city, and the Dalston-

based jewellery designer Charlotte

Valkeniers is one of the best we’ve

seen recently. Launched in 2013,

her eponymous label has been rec-

ognised for its unique approach to

materials and design. Belgian-born

Valkeniers focuses on precious

metals handcrafted into geometric

shapes, and has been working for

some time with Swarovski using the

brand’s beautiful crystals. Her jew-

ellery is subtly unusual and modern

yet wearable. Her latest collection

focuses on the triangle: the shape is

dissected, disconnected and rebuilt

to create wonderful rings, earrings,

bracelets and necklaces. hl

East London Design Store,

6A Ada Street,

London E8 4QU,

+44 (0)20 7254 3760,

charlottevalkeniers.com

SPECTACULAR SPECTACLES

A year after its online launch,

the British spectacle brand Cubitts

has opened its frst workshop. Lo-

cated in Soho, the store ofers eye

tests and high-tech services includ-

ing an augmented reality try-on

facility and facial-measurement

software. Over a period of six

weeks, Cubitts’ frames go through

50 stages of production to trans-

form the single sheets of Italian

acetate into the beautiful glasses

on display. All the spectacles and

sunglasses are handmade in classic

shapes with anti-scratch and anti-

glare coating as standard. Each

pair of spectacles comes with a

handmade leather case and op-

tical screwdriver. To top it of,

the accompanying cleaning cloth

features a full-colour scene of

King’s Cross. th

The Cubitts Workshop,

37 Marshall Street,

London W1F 7EZ,

+44 (0)20 7287 0564,

cubitts.co.uk

* for map go to page 78

M E N S W E A R

OXFORD STREET

388 Oxford Street

W1C 1JT

JERMYN STREET

103–108 Jermyn Street

SW1Y 6EQ

REGENT STREET

126 Regent Street

W1B 5SD

tmlewin.co.uk

40 | NEWS

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

FRENCH FRAGRANCE

With the Verbena and Laven-

der de Provence collection from

Crabtree & Evelyn, the freshness

of the French countryside is just a

spritz away. The light, zesty scent

of verbena works in harmony with

lavender essential oils to create an

uplifting fragrance that’s perfect

for combating the heat of summer

in the city. Whether you choose the

cologne, shower gel or hand thera-

py, you can be assured that each is

formulated with moisturising prop-

erties and the herbal know-how

that customers have come to expect

from the American brand. th

Crabtree & Evelyn,

151 Regent Street,

London W1B 4JD,

+44 (0)20 7734 6043,

crabtree-evelyn.co.uk

* for map go to page 78

COUNTRY SET

Last November saw the all-

singing, all-dancing opening of

Hunter’s frst global fagship store.

Inspired by the musical Singin’ in

the Rain, 28 dancers took to Regent

Street wearing the brand’s fnest

waterproof gear. Hunter’s creative

director Alasdhair Willis devised the

concept for the store and uses refer-

ences to the British countryside: the

seating areas resemble a rural boot

room, while the lighting has been

created to mimic Britain’s tempera-

mental weather. The store is the frst

to showcase the Hunter Original

collection, which was launched with

a runway show at London Fashion

Week in February 2014. th

Hunter,

83-85 Regent Street,

London W1B 4EW,

+44 (0)20 7287 2999,

hunterboots.com

* for map go to page 80

PH

OT

O: D

AN

ME

DH

UR

ST.

CO

M

PH

OT

O: D

AM

IAN

RU

SS

EL

L

A DV E RTOR I A L | 41

that ensure a double take wherever

you may wander.

The menswear collection is a

paradise of striking colour blocks

and bold hues. This season’s smart-

yet-stylish look is a mix of relaxed

layers, casual knitwear and refned,

formal pieces. A head-turning co-

lour palette of head-to-toe tones of

creamy mints, striking peach and

pastel pinks create colourful illu-

sions, while oversized geometric

prints, contrast spots and micro

forals play on perspective.

With stores throughout London

and the surrounding area, you can

enjoy the new season’s collections

wherever you are. Find Ted Baker

in Covent Garden, Knightsbridge,

Regent Street, South Molton Street,

Westfeld London, Gatwick Air-

port (north and south terminals),

Heathrow Airport (terminals T1,

T2, T3, T4 and T5) and designer

outlet Bicester Village.

tedbaker.com

IMAGINE THIS

This season, Ted Baker’s collec-

tions burst into life with fashes of

bold print, strong textured fabrics

and vivid colours. Womenswear

abounds with a palette of paint-

pot tones splashed on clothing and

accessories, while punchy pinks,

pretty pastels and blink-and-you’ll-

miss-them nudes illuminate foral

motifs and modern graphic prints.

The colour-flled elegance of the

cascading foral and mirrored trop-

ics prints capture the imagination,

while distinguished rose and linear

nouveau prints create a nostalgic

feel and romantic fights of fancy.

Fantasy meets reality with Ted

Baker’s take on sports luxe, com-

plete with metal hardware, sequins

and neoprene. Inky shades of navy

and black are highlighted with pops

of chartreuse, cobalt and orange

globalblue.com

ENJOY

FREE DELIVERY

WORLDWIDE *

AND SHOP TAX FREE

IN THE UK

*Terms conditions and exceptions apply. A minimum order value may apply

to the free delivery ofer see nextdirect.com for full details. For delivery times,

product information or general enquiries visit nextdirect.com

LONDON BOND STREET 327-329 OXFORD STREET

LONDON MARBLE ARCH 508-520 OXFORD STREET

NEXTDIRECT.COM

IN STORE: START LONDON

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

44 | N E WS

Founded by husband and wife Philip Start and Brix Smith-Start, the Start London womenswear boutique is a unique shopping experience. Ximena Daneri talked to Brix about the vision behind the store’s individuality

‘When we moved into Shoreditch

from Notting Hill, there was no-

where to shop, so we decided to

create a tiny boutique on a back

street and fll it with things we love.

Necessity is the mother of inven-

tion, and we opened our frst store

in October 2002.

‘At the time, Shoreditch had

an artistic frisson and there was a

creative energy in the air. It felt like

SoHo in New York in the 1980s,

you could sense something was

about to happen in the area.

‘We were very involved with the

design of the store. Philip Start and

Philip Oakley, a lighting specialist,

did the design, and I added touches

here and there, but we all collabo-

rated and had fun doing it.

‘We have wonderful eclectic and

artistic touches in the store, like the

neon sign that says “treasure”, the

giant cake mirror ball on which we

merchandise accessories, and the

fake-fower funeral wreath saying

“shoes” which is above the shoe

department. We are always chang-

ing things and adding new ideas to

the mix – it’s a very fuid shop. In

a way, it is our artistic canvas and

we continuously change the space

and environment.

‘We buy what we love, we pick

winners and I like to buy things

that are classic with a twist. These

are items that can stay in your

wardrobe for 10 years or more and

things you can accessorise again

and again. We like to have various PH

OT

OS

: XIM

EN

A D

AN

ER

I

SHOP | 45

price points so everybody can af-

ford to buy something here and I

think what we are really brilliant at

is the edit.

‘We remerchandise every few

days – sometimes every day – and

I always use colour as my start-

ing point when merchandising.

Everything must look delicious,

like a candy store.

‘My top picks for spring/sum-

mer 2015 are Marques Almeida,

Shrimps, Sandy Liang and

Roksanda. When it comes to mens-

wear, soft tailoring is a big trend

this season.

‘We have exclusives every single

season. We love to work directly

with designers, either doing lim-

ited editions or special colours.

The Gladys & Pixie items, which

include luxury cashmere sweaters,

scarves, leather goods and accesso-

ries, are only sold in our stores and

on our web shop.

‘There are so many memorable

stories about this shop, but my

favourite is when Disney threw

a party here to celebrate Mickey

Mouse hats that were customised

by celebrities. Mickey Mouse ar-

rived from Disneyland Paris and

danced in our women’s store to

Beyoncé’s Single Ladies; it was hi-

larious and unprecedented.’

Start London,

42-44 Rivington Street,

London EC2A 3QP,

+44 (0)20 7729 3334,

start-london.com

globalblue.com

THE COOL QUARTEROne part of central London has encapsulated British

style since the 1960s and remains just as popular

today. Verity Hogan takes a tour of Carnaby Street

THE COOL QUARTERIn 1966, Time Magazine declared

a small area on the edge of Soho

the heart of ‘swinging London’.

Since then, Carnaby Street and its

surrounding ofshoots have come

to represent the epicentre of Lon-

don cool. The Rolling Stones, the

Kinks, Jimi Hendrix and the Sex

48 | FEATURES

Carnaby remains one of London’s most sought-after shopping streets with a range of flagship stores, high-end restaurants and a diverse programme of events

Pistols all frequented the area in

the 1960s and 70s, shopping in its

independent boutiques, perform-

ing in clubs and hanging out in the

local restaurants. Music, fashion

and a hint of rebellion have all been

part of the Carnaby experience

ever since.

In the early 19th century,

Carnaby was a quiet area compris-

ing workshops along with a few

shops and restaurants. Its transfor-

mation began in 1952 when a fre

forced John Stephen to move his

menswear shop from nearby Beak

Street to Carnaby Street. Vari-

ous small, independent boutiques

quickly followed, all ofering af-

fordable, fashionable clothing to a

youthful clientele. Stores such as

Previous page: this mural by Dudley Edwards on the Lord John store was a main Carnaby Street atraction in the 1960s

PH

OTO

: © R

AY S

TE

VE

NS

ON

/RE

X F

EAT

UR

ES

/89 95

103

SHOP | 49

Lord John, Take Six, Gear, and

‘I was Lord Kitchener’s Valet’ be-

came renowned for their famboy-

ant fashion ranges, and designers

competed to bring the most origi-

nal, and often outrageous, ideas to

the area.

Today, Carnaby remains one of

London’s most sought-after shop-

ping streets with a range of fag-

ship stores, high-end restaurants

and a diverse programme of events

bringing visitors from around the

world, as well as Londoners, to

the area in their droves. Its links

with the UK’s music scene are still

strong: it was here that ex-Oasis

frontman Liam Gallagher decided

to open the frst store of his fashion

label Pretty Green and a number

Above (clockwise from lef page): the Sex Pistols, 1976; singer Cat Stevens, 1967, both in Carnaby Street; the street continues to be a colourful and creative area

PH

OTO

: JO

HN

PR

ATT

/KE

YS

TON

E F

EAT

UR

ES

/GE

TT

Y IM

AG

ES

PH

OTO

: FE

LIX

CA

RR

ET

TO

50 | FEATURES

The food offering in the area has also grown in recent years, making Carnaby a gourmet destination

of brands closely associated with

the music industry, such as Dr

Martens and the Great Frog, also

have stores here. Meanwhile, the

Carnaby Echoes app, an interac-

tive walking tour of the area, gives

visitors the opportunity to gain a

deeper insight into its diverse mu-

sical history, providing flm and

audio interviews when sites of par-

ticular interest are passed.

In keeping with the area’s

unique feel, some of the stores that

have found a home here ofer be-

spoke services. Visit Dr Martens

to have a pair of its boots made to

order or stop at Paul Smith’s Soho

concept store, which ofers a cus-

tom-made jeans service and an ex-

clusive Soho-inspired suit lining.

Above (from top): the Paul Smith Soho concept store; Dr Martens spring/summer 2015

ECCO Kensington

102 Kensington High Street · W8 4SG London · +44 207 938 25 83

ECCO Oxford Circus

261 Oxford Street · W1C 2DE London · +44 207 495 47 96

ECCO Knightsbridge

45 Brompton Road · SW3 1DE London · +44 207 584 57 37

ECCO Covent Garden

36 Long Acre · WC2E 9JT London · +44 207 379 51 45

ECCO Westfeld

Westfeld Shopping Centre · Unit 1114 · W12 7GD London · +44 208 735 18 30

ECCO Wimbledon

Centre Court Shopping Centre · 4 Queens Road · SW19 8YE London · +44 208 947 86 65

ecco.com

52 | FEATURES

Californian watch company

Nixon is one of the area’s most

recent openings. Located on New-

burgh Street, the store is a perfect

ft for Carnaby’s creative, youthful

spirit and features a workshop-

inspired customisation bar where

visitors can create their own one-

of-a-kind timepiece. Refecting

Carnaby’s independent heritage,

the bar allows patrons to choose

from a range of component parts

and engraved detailing options to

create a custom-built watch. Three

models are available for customisa-

tion – the Sentry, the Time Teller

and the 48-20 Chrono.

A Carnaby address has a certain

cachet and, along with the British

brands found here, a number of in-

ternational companies have chosen

Carnaby Street to be their only base

in the UK, among them Swedish-

label Monki, with its playful collec-

tions that stand out from the crowd,

ElevenParis, which brings its own

brand of Parisian chic to Carnaby,

and Spanish-label Lavand.

‘We chose Carnaby as a loca-

tion for our store as it has been the

heart of youth culture and street

fashion since the 1960s, making it

the ideal shopping location for our

54-year-old brand,’ says Amy Nel-

son, Dr Martens’ marketing man-

ager. ‘Like Dr Martens, Carnaby

has re-invented itself over the de-

cades while maintaining its trendy

fashion identity and association

with music.’

The food ofering in the area

has also grown in recent years,

Above (clockwise from lef): watch customisation bar in Nixon’s fagship store; Señor Ceviche; the entrance to Kingly Court, Carnaby Street

SHOP | 53

making Carnaby a gourmet desti-

nation. The newly renovated King-

ly Court plays host to some of the

capital’s most talked about eater-

ies, from casual pizzeria Pizza Pil-

grims to seafood restaurant Wright

Brothers Soho and acclaimed Indi-

an eatery Cinnamon Soho. Bring-

ing the tastes of downtown Lima

to central London, Peruvian res-

taurant Señor Ceviche is one of the

most recent additions to the food

scene. ‘Carnaby has been brilliant

for us,’ says the restaurant’s found-

er Harry Edmeades. ‘It’s always

buzzing and attracts a fun crowd.

Our aim is to make Peruvian food

and drink more accessible to Lon-

doners and being located here has

made that possible.’

carnaby.co.uk

54 | F E AT U R E S

REVOLUTION BY DESIGN

/92 97

101

SHOP | 55

Above: Edward Sexton grey wool suit, spring/summer 2015

Edward Sexton may not be a Brit-

ish fashion name that appears on

billboards and magazine spreads

around the world. Indeed, his

contribution to British style has

been relatively under the radar

even within the UK, where his

one-time partner Tommy Nut-

ter is the more recognisable name

among those with a penchant for

a well-cut suit. But things may be

about to change. Despite being be-

yond retirement age, the legendary

bespoke tailor has now launched

his frst made-to-measure collec-

tion, as well as a ready-to-wear line

of seven-fold ties in cashmere and

silk, scarves and pocket squares in

paisley and macro prints and art-

fully tailored tab-collar and pin-

collar shirts.

‘I love tailoring still – it’s my

hobby,’ says Sexton, who left

London’s Savile Row to become

a menswear specialist in Knights-

bridge in the 1980s. ‘I get as ex-

cited now coming to work at 72 as

I did when I was 17. The young-

sters who work here let me know

what’s going on out on the street

fashion-wise, even though I’m not

that into trends. I’m into sophisti-

cated dressing.’

Sexton, of course, was once

one of those youngsters. And

his contribution to London’s

Savile Row rebel Edward Sexton is bringing his distinctive style of tailoring to a new ready-to-wear range, discovers Josh Sims

56 | FEATURES

tailoring scene was revolutionary.

Sexton the cloth-master and Nut-

ter the salesman and style vision-

ary formed Nutters of Savile Row

in 1969 and introduced the idea

of bespoke tailoring to a genera-

tion that had dismissed it as being

strictly for the old guard. They

opened their premises on Savile

Row with shop windows – then

unheard of – and cut suits with a

contemporary, slightly period fair

– narrow waists, parallel-legged

trousers and wide peak lapels were

all Sexton signatures that chimed

with the times. Mick Jagger, Eric

Clapton and Twiggy became cus-

tomers and the Beatles wore Sex-

ton on the cover of their Abbey

Road album.

‘We didn’t know that what we

would do would create a furore,’

Above (clockwise from top): Nuters store, circa 1980; women’s power suit; suit for Elton John, 1984; men’s trench coat; men’s checked suit, all Tommy Nuter design sketches

Buttoning up the top button of your shirt is something that’s been done

to Ben Sherman shirts since 1963. It is a deliberate style choice that exudes

‘Britishness’ and personal pride. It’s also an integral part of British style culture.

Carnaby Street

50 Carnaby Street

London

W1F 9QA

Islington

1/1a Camden Walk

Islington, London

N1 8DY

Commercial Street

108 Commercial Street

London

E1 6LZ

Covent Garden

119 Long Acre

Covent Garden, London

WC2E 9PA

115 Portobello Road

115 Portobello Road

London

W11 2DY

58 | FEATURES

‘I’m just there to provide the best clothes for the customer, regardless of who they are’ Edward Sexton

says Sexton. ‘We were just two

young guys who liked looking

in shop windows, so we thought

nothing of putting in shop win-

dows. We didn’t know that chal-

lenged tradition. But that then

allowed new ideas about tailoring

to spread through a very closed

world. Even the timing was right –

London at that time encouraged a

cult of innovation. It was luck. I’ve

been extremely lucky in life – none

of it was planned.’

It was through his work creat-

ing bespoke suits for Paul McCart-

ney that Sexton came to meet Stella

McCartney (Paul’s daughter). Sex-

ton went on to oversee all of the tai-

loring that Stella introduced as cre-

ative director of Chloé, and for her

own label. He developed a rare ex-

pertise in cutting suits for women –

a talent that has attracted the likes

of Annie Lennox and Kate Moss as

customers. ‘You can’t just turn to

Above (clockwise from top lef): Edward Sexton dinner suit illustration; the brand’s grey wool suit, both spring/summer 2015; historic image of Edward Sexton with tailor Peter Osbourne

11B, King Street

WC2E 8HN

228, Westbourne Grove

W11 2RH

225, Regent Street

W1B 2ER

LONDON

7forallmankind.com

60 | FEATURES

The Italian cloth shirts share the same attention to craft as all his other items

traditional men’s tailoring training

to cut for a woman. They end up

looking like they’re wearing a man’s

jacket,’ notes Sexton.

When it comes to ready-to-

wear, Sexton is certainly late to the

party. So why do it? Indeed, most

bespoke tailors are historically rath-

er disdainful about the idea. ‘I’ve

always admired ready-to-wear,

accessories especially,’ counters

Sexton. ‘It’s those with which you

romance a suit. A suit is just a suit –

but the right tie, for instance, makes

it look diferent and feel diferent to

wear. Of course, I remember when

ready-to-wear didn’t really exist.

But the advances in manufactur-

ing now mean it really has reached

a peak, an excellent quality. Now I

aim to introduce a new peak.’

His made-to-measure suits, for

example, are all high armholes,

roped sleeves and fared ‘skirts’

– benchmarks of bespoke. The

Italian cloth shirts share the same

attention to craft as all his other

items: the collars are engineered to

‘sit proud’, as Sexton puts it, so that

whether fastened or not they always

look crisp. Perhaps Paul McCart-

ney will be back. Not that Sexton is

too bothered by the celebrity inter-

est. ‘I can’t aford to be star-struck,’

he says. ‘I’m just there to provide

the best clothes for the customer,

regardless of who they are.’

edwardsexton.co.uk

Above (from lef): Edward Sexton Blue collection, spring/summer 2015; designer Edward Sexton

L EE ® S T ORE S :

Westfeld Shopping Centre

Shepherds Bush

LONDON — W12 7GF

+44 208 743 1155

35 Neal Street, Covent Garden

LONDON — WC2H 9PR

+44 207 836 8300

globalblue.com

In recent years, street food has be-

come an integral part of the capi-

tal’s food scene. Providing more

than just a quick bite to eat, the

city’s roadside stalls and trucks

ofer gourmet experiences to rival

that of many restaurants. High-

calibre street food markets can now

be found across London, among

them the well-established Borough

Market and the fast-growing Kerb.

62 | E X PE R I E NCE

STREET FOOD

Forget fne dining, London’s savviest foodies are seeking out food trucks, markets

and stalls. Isabella Redmond Styles tracks down some of the very best

These stalls provide a convenient

and accessible way to sample some

of the city’s most delicious eats and

many are now setting up at outdoor

events; fnd where your chosen stall

is currently located by checking on

social media. From lobster rolls

and Asian-style steamed buns to

perfectly made pizzas and gourmet

gelato, London’s streets are serving

intriguing international food.

SHOP | 63

Y U M B U N

Yum Bun has received rave re-

views citywide for its steamed

buns, which are flled with a meat,

fsh or vegetarian option: typical

fllings include pork belly and hoi-

sin sauce, Portobello mushrooms,

walnuts and miso glaze, and crispy

prawns with green chilli sambal

and Kewpie mayonnaise from Ja-

pan. The stall started out at Broad-

way Market in east London and is

now a regular fxture at Kerb street

food markets and at summertime

events. These buns are due to be

available at Harvey Nichols later

this year.

Yum Bun, various venues,

yumbun.com,

@yumbun

64 | EXPER IENCE

globalblue.com

P I Z Z A P I L G R I M S

After returning from a six week

‘pizza pilgrimage’ around southern

Italy with a three-wheeled Piaggio

Ape van, the Pizza Pilgrims

promptly installed an Italian stone

oven in the vehicle and set up shop

in Soho. An obsession with quality

means that many ingredients come

from Naples, and all pizzas are

crafted from handmade dough

which has been proved for between

24 hours and 28 hours. There are

now two permanent pizzerias on

Dean Street and Kingly Court, both

in Soho, and the van is becoming a

fxture at summer events.

Pizza Pilgrims,

11 Kingly Street,

London W1B 5PW,

+44 (0)20 7287 2200,

pizzapilgrims.co.uk

N E V E R

S T O P

E X P L O R I N G™

COVENT GARDEN

WESTFIELD

VICTORIA

ST. PAUL

STRATFORD

WEMBLEY

CARNABY

THE NORTH FACE®

LONDON

TIMOThY OLSON

ChAMONIx / FRANCE

TIM KEMPLE

EXPER IENCE | 67

globalblue.com

S O R B I T I U M

Focusing on seasonal and locally

sourced ingredients, Sorbitium has

an artisan approach to ice cream.

Putting the conventional ice cream

van to shame, Sorbitium operates

out of a charming 1976 Citroën HY

and can be found at various London

markets and events, ranging from

Kerb street food markets to Polo

in the Park. Among Sorbitium’s

summer scoops, expect to see Peach

Leaf Crème Brûlée, Fresh Mint and

Gooey Chocolate Slab, and Cherry

Negroni Granita.

Sorbitium,

various venues,

sorbitiumices.com,

@Sorbitiumices

B O B ’ S L O B S T E R

With an emphasis on fun and ac-

cessibility, BOB’s Lobster stall

sprang up at Borough Market last

year and its Americana-themed

dishes, served from a split-screen

VW van, were quick to draw

crowds. Tuck into classics such

as lobster rolls and lobster mac

‘n’ cheese, while other dishes, in-

cluding fresh ahi (yellowfn) tuna

tacos, are also typically available.

Wine, beer and van-made lemon-

ade are served from a vintage ice

cream tricycle.

BOB’s Lobster,

various venues, bobslobster.com,

@BOBs_LobsterP

HO

TO

: WIL

KE

S M

CD

ER

MID

www.kipling.com

KIPLING STORES

205 Regent Street, W1B 4PE London

29 Brompton Rd, SW3 1ED London

Westfeld Shopping Centre, Ariel way-unit 1136, W12 7GD London

GUIDE

GUIDE | 69

Above: umbrella installation at Vinopolis Piazza, Borough Market

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of

your trip to London with a look at the city’s must-visit

destinations, from the coolest fashion stores to the

city’s must-visit cafés. Start with our recommendations

before delving deeper with expert guidance from our

well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed

city guides, check out globalblue.com/london.

A GLIMPSE OF LONDON

PH

OT

O: K

IRS

TY

AN

DR

EW

S

70 | GUIDE

LONDON

BROMPTON R

OA

D

SYD

NE

Y S

T.

CRAVEN HILL

QU

EE

NS

WA

Y

CROMWE LL RD

K

ING’ S

RD

HARROW RD

MA RYLEBONE RD

PA

LA

CE

GA

TE

SL

OA

NE

ST

.

BAYSWATER RD

S USSEX GARDENS

HARROW RD

BISHOPS BRIDGE RD

FULHAM

RD OLD B

ROMPTO

N R

D

KENSINGTON RD

PONT ST.

RoundPond

The LongWater

The Serpentine

EDG

WARE RD

P

RAED ST.

GL

OU

CE

ST

ER

RD

MARBLE ARCH

EDGWARE ROAD

EDGWARE ROAD

MARYLEBONEBAKER

STREET

LANCASTER GATE

QUEENSWAY

BAYSWATER

ROYAL OAK

WARWICK AVENUE

HIGH STREETKENSINGTON

PADDINGTON

PADDINGTON

KNIGHTSBRIDGE

SLOANE SQUARE

SOUTHKENSINGTON

GLOUCESTERROAD

EARLS COURT

VICTORIA & ALBERT

MUSEUM

ROYAL ALBERT

HALL

KENSINGTON PALACE

NATURAL HISTORY

MUSEUM

SERPENTINE GALLERY

HYDE PARK

page

77

Place Of Interest Train Station

SHOP | 71

NE

W B

ON

D S

T.

RE

GE

NT

S

T.

PO

RT

LA

ND

PL

.G

RE

AT

PO

RT

LA

ND

ST

.

VAUXHALL BRIDGE RD

GR

OSVEN

OR

PL .

BLO

OM

SBU

RY

ST.

VICTOR IA ST.

PICC ADIL

LY

ALDWYCH

LAMBETH ROAD

STRAND

V

ICT

OR

IA E

MB

AN

KM

EN

T

AL

BE

RT

EM

BA

NK

ME

NT

PALL MALL

S

HA

FTE

SBURY AVE .

BU

CK

ING

HA

M P

AL

AC

E R

D

HIGH HOLBORN

THEOBOLD’S RD

WH

ITE

HA

LL

OXFORD ST.

KIN

GS

WA

Y

JERMYN ST.

COVENTGARDEN

LEICESTERSQUARE

PICCADILLYCIRCUS

OXFORD CIRCUS

TOTTENHAMCOURT ROAD

HOLBORN

BOND STREET

GOODGE STREET

GREEN PARKEMBANKMENT

TEMPLE

HYDE PARK CORNER

VICTORIA

ST. JAMES PARK

PIMLICO

WESTMINSTER

WATERLOO

CHARINGCROSS

BUCKINGHAM

PALACEAPSLEY HOUSE

WESTMINSTER

ABBEY

BIG BEN

TATE GALLERY

LONDON EYE

NATIONAL

THEATRE

BRITISH

MUSEUM

page

74

page

78

page

72

page

80

page

83 page

82

page

81

London Underground Station

72 | GUIDE

Oxford Street (North)

EA

ST

CA

ST

LE

ST

RE

ET

R AMILLIES ST.

NO

EL

ST

RE

ET

MARKET PL .

D’A

RB

LA

Y S

TR

EE

T

WELLS STREET

BERWICK ST.

MA

RG

AR

ET

ST

RE

ET

OX

FO

RD

ST

RE

ET

WATERSTONES ●

THE PERFUME SHOP ●ACCESSORIZE ●

MOSS BROS ●

ESPRIT ●

AMERICAN APPAREL ●

SPORTS DIRECT ●

JEANS WEST ●

DUNE ●

UNIQLO ●

H&M ●

ALDO ●OFFICE ●

RUSSELL &BROMLEY ●

● RETRO LONDON● JESSOPS● SWAROVSKI● COOLWAY● THE ORANGE SHOP● FLIGHT CENTRE

● H SAMUEL

● MARKS & SPENCER

VERO MODA/● JACK & JONES

● MUJI

● BOOTS

● NEXT

● NEW LOOK

● RIVER ISLAND

● ZARASCHUH ●

THE PHOTOGRAPHERS

GALLERY

The Plaza NUDIE JEANS ●

WEEKEND

OFFENDER ●

FOOT PATROL ●

CURRYS PC WORLD ●

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

Shopping Centre/Mall

1. Les 100 Ciels

Cashmere design can often err towards

the overly sedate, but at Les 100 Ciels

you’ll fnd trend-led separates, dresses and

coats in covetable cuts and colours.

Les 100 Ciels, 18-19 St Christopher’s Place, London W1U 1NN, +44 (0)20 7859 4628, les100c.com

* for map go to page 77

2. Groom

Located just off St Christopher’s Place,

Groom pioneered two-therapist synchro-

nised beauty treatments, taking the spa

experience to a new level of indulgence.

We recommend the Weekly Groom Hour.

Groom, 8 Gee’s Court, London W1U 1JQ, +44 (0)20 7499 1199, groomlondon.com

* for map go to page 77

3. Diverso

Combining British design with Italian arti-

sanship, Diverso’s menswear collections

are striking and original. For a shirt or suit

you won’t fnd at home, look no further.

Diverso, 23 St Christopher’s Place, London W1U 1NR, +44 (0)20 7486 7501,diversoonline.com

* for map go to page 77

TOP 3 STORES IN ST

CHRISTOPHER’S PLACE

1

VANS STORES LONDON:

47 Carnaby Street, 109-209 Camden High Street, 42 Neal Street,

Westf eld London (ground f oor), Westf eld Stratford (ground f oor)

©2015 V

ans Inc. P

hoto

: C

lara

Balz

ary

74 | GUIDE

Oxford Street (Central)

JOHN PRINCE'S ST.

HE

NR

IET

TA

PL

AC

E

H

EN

RIE

TT

A P

LA

CE

WELBECK STREET

SO

UTH

MO

LTEN

STR

EE

T

HOLLES STREET

WELBECK STREET

VE RE ST.

NEW BOND STREET

BR

OO

K S

TR

EE

T

REGENT STREET REGENT STREET

GREAT PORTLAND STREET

OX

FO

RD

ST

RE

ET

OX

FO

RD

ST

RE

ET

WIG

MO

RE

ST

RE

ET

OXFORD CIRCUS

Bureau De Change

JO MALONE ●

LINKS OFLONDON ●

MISS SELFRIDGE ●

TOPSHOP/TOPMAN ●

NIKETOWN ●

H&M ●

ZARA ●

H. SAMUEL ●

CLARKS ●

WAREHOUSE ●

GEOX ●

THE BODY SHOP ●

COAST ●

FOSSIL ●

SUNGLASS HUT ●

THE DISNEY STORE ●

● MANGO

● GAP● BUREAU DE CHANGE

● TEZENIS

● BENETTON

● PANDORA

● ECCO

● VISION EXPRESS

● JD SPORTS

● ERNEST JONES

● SALVATION FOOT

● CARPISA

● EE

● ACCESSORIZE

● TIE RACK

● MOSS BROS

● RIVER ISLAND

● ALDO

● UNIQLO

● SWATCH

● PULL & BEAR

● MASSIMO DUTTI

● SWAROVSKI

● NEXT

● ZARA

● THORNTONS

HanoverSquare

CavendishSquare

Gardens

HANDEL HOUSEMUSEUM

● BERSHKAURBAN OUTFITTERS ●

House Of Fraser

Debenhams

John Lewis

BHS

Meat Liquor

BROWNS ● FOCUS

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Department Store

RestaurantGlobal Blue Refund Ofce London Underground Station

UNI

Proving that Peruvian and Japa-

nese cuisine can merge to create

tantalising fusion dishes, Uni

ofers an intriguing menu. From

the salmon tartare tacos to the

ceviche and tiraditos, each dish

features impeccably balanced

favours. The choice of sashimi

and maki is very impressive, and

the Dragon and Crazy Roll plat-

ters are particular highlights.

Meat lovers will be impressed

with the sumptuously tender

wagyu beef with rock salt and

chilli, and the signature Chilli

Mojito cocktail is the perfect

way to round of your meal.

Uni, 18A Ebury Street,

London SW1W 0LU,

+44 (0)20 7730 9267,

restaurantuni.com

SAVE UP TO

11% WHEN

YOU SHOP

TAX FREE.

Join Global Blue for free, explore your city, find the best stores, and save up to 11% on everything you buy.

globalblue.com/join

Шоппинг на 11% выгоднее, когда вы совершаете покупки с Tax Free

Получите карту Global Blue,

наслаждайтесь путешествиями и

шоппингом в лучших магазинах,

экономя при этом до 11%

от стоимости ваших покупок

globalblue.ru/join

GUIDE | 77

Oxford Street (South)

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

London Underground Station

Shopping Centre/Mall

Department Store Featured In This Issue

JAMES STREET

N

OR

TH

RO

W

ET

PARK STREET

PORTMAN ST.

ORCHARD ST. NORTH AUDLEY ST.

OX

FO

RD

ST

RE

ET

DUKE STREET

PARK LANE

O

XF

OR

D S

TR

EE

T

MARBLE ARCH

BOND STREET

JOHN BELL ●& CROYDEN

SONY

● CENTRE

SUNGLASS HUT ●

FOREVER 21 ●

H&M ●INTIMISSI ●

SPRING STORE ●THE BODY SHOP ●

GAP ●

ACCESSORIZE ●

JANE NORMAN ●

FRENCH CONNECTION ●

MARKS & SPENCER ●

SCHUH ●

VODAFONE ●

CLARKS ●

LA SENZA ●

CLAIRE’S ●

DUNE ●

RUSSELL & BROMLEY ●

MONSOON ●

NEW LOOK ●

NEXT ●

SUPERDRUG ●

BOOTS ●

ANN SUMMERS ●

HOLLAND & BARRETT ●

MOTHERCARE ●

GEOX ●

WALLIS ●

TOPSHOP ●

● BOOTS● HMV

BUREAU● DE CHANGE

● OMEGA

DOROTHY PERKINS/● BURTON

● BOOTS● RUSSELL & BROMLEY

● CARPHONE WAREHOUSE

● CAMPER

● SWAROVSKIWATCHES OF ● SWITZERLAND

● ADIDAS

● WATERSTONES

● 3

● THE PERFUME SHOP

● THE HOUR PASSION

● ARABIAN OUD

● ZARA

● PANDORA

● BERSHKA

● RIVER ISLAND

● URBAN OUTFITTERS

● PRIMARK

● BASICS

West One Centre

Selfridges

PHASE EIGHT ●

● EVANS

VIVIENNE ● WESTWOOD

PENELOPE CHILVERS ●

1. Lady Dinah’s Cat Emporium

Following on from the Asian phenom-

enon, Lady Dinah’s is London’s frst

café where rescued cats roam around

among the visitors. We recommend the

cake at this popular spot.

Lady Dinah’s Cat Emporium, 152-154 Bethnal Green Road, London E2 6DG, +44 (0)20 7729 0953,ladydinahs.com

2. Cereal Killer Café

While this café might only offer cereal

for breakfast, lunch and dinner, 120

types are available, along with 30

varieties of milk and 20 toppings. Take

note of the 1980s and 90s memora-

bilia once you’ve made your choice.

Cereal Killer Café, 139 Brick Lane, London E1 6SB, +44 07590 436055, cerealkillercafe.co.uk

3. Draughts

For those who like their morning

coffee with a side of Monopoly, this

speciality board game café is a must

visit. Customers can choose from

over 500 games and there are regular

tournaments, themed evenings and

design workshops.

Draughts, 337 Acton Mews, London E8 4EA,draughtslondon.com

TOP 3…QUIRKY CAFÉS

3

JA

ME

S S

TR

EE

T

DIVERSO ●

LES 100 CIELS ●

ST

CH

RIS

TO

PH

ER

’S P

LA

CE

● GROOM

P.72

P.72

P.72

78 | GUIDE

Regent Street & Carnaby Street

HANOVER STREET

MARSHALL STREET

BEAK ST.

LO

WE

R JA

ME

S S

TR

EE

T

LO

WE

R JO

HN

ST

RE

ET

RE

GE

NT

ST

RE

ET

RE

GE

NT

ST

RE

ET

OXFORD STREET

GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET

CA

RN

AB

Y S

TR

EE

T

MADDOX STREET

SA

VIL

E R

OW

VIG

O S

TR

EE

T

BREWER STREET

C

ONDUIT STREET

OXFORD CIRCUS

THE MAKEUP STORE ●

SIZE? ●IRREGULAR CHOICE ●

GOLA ●MUJI ●

EL GANSO●

WESC ●

REPLAY ●HILFIGER

DENIM ●

VANS ●

HENRI LLOYD ●

BEN SHERMAN ●LEVI’S ●

PUMA ●SOCCER SCENE ●

PRETTY GREEN ●

● MISS SIXTY

● FORNARINA● LAMBRETTA● PYLONES● PEPE JEANS● DIESEL● THE KOOPLES

● STORM

● OFFICE● DAVID AND GOLIATH● LEE● G-STAR RAW● MERC

● MUJI● HUGO BOSS

● THE NORTH FACE

● BOOTS

● AMERICAN APPAREL

● EASTPAK

● TEZENISBENETTON ●

● NIKETOWN● TOPSHOP/TOPMAN

H&M ●

LEVI’S ●

FRENCH CONNECTION ●

KAREN MILLEN ●

TED BAKER ●

APPLE STORE ●

LACOSTE ●

LONGCHAMP ●

MOLTON BROWN ●7 FOR ALL

MANKIND ●MICHAEL KORS ●

FURLA ●HOBBS ●

BARKER ● TUMI ●

CAMPER ●KIPLING ●CLARKS ●

CHURCH’S ●

THE PEN SHOP ●

FERRARI ●

GANT ●

BOSE ●

JACK WOLFSKIN ●HAWES & CURTIS ●

T M LEWIN ●7 FOR ALL MAN KIND ●

THE EXCHANGE GROUP ●

JCREW ●

CRABTREE &EVELYN ●

L’OCCITANE ●

KARL LAGERFIELD ●

OXFORDS ●

GODIVA ●

SWAROVSKI ●

ZARA HOME ●

PENHALIGON’S ●

TOYWATCH ●

BURBERRY ●

REISS ●

SUPERDRY ●

CLARKS ●

HO

US

E O

F●

HA

NO

VE

R

BANANA

● REPUBLIC

● KIKO● OMEGA● & OTHER STORIES● KIKI MAKEUP

● ACCESSORIZE

● ARMANI EXCHANGE

● ALL SAINTS

● H&M

● COS

● DESIGUAL

● GAP

JUICY● COUTURE

● JAEGER

● HAMLEYS

● HUGO BOSS

● ESPRIT

● LEVI’S● J CREW● REISS

CALVIN KLEIN● JEANS

● GUESS

● ANTHROPOLOGIE

● MASSIMO DUTTI

● BROOKS BROTHERS

● TIMBERLAND

● TOMMY HILFIGER

● MAPPIN & WEBB

● RUSSELL & BROMLEY

● T M LEWIN

● FOLLI FOLLIE

● THE BODY SHOP

● ZARA

● MANGO

● AUSTIN REED● VIYELLA

● CHARLES TYRWHITT● MOSS

SWAROVSKI

● CRYSTALLIZED

● SWEATY BETTY● ILLAMASQUA

THE EAST INDIA COMPANY ●

Liber t y

VIVIENNE ● WESTWOOD

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD MAN ●

THE CUBITTS ● WORKSHOP

Department StoreGlobal Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

London Underground Station

P.37

P.38

P.35

P.40

Featured In This Issue

购物时节省高达11%，享受退税购物的卓越。

免费加入环球蓝联，探索您的城市，逛最顶级的商店，每次购物节省高达11％消费。

globalblue.cn/join

80 | GUIDE

Regent Street & Piccadilly Circus

LO

WE

R R

EG

EN

T S

TR

.

DE

NM

AN

PL

AC

E

DENMAN STREET

HAM YARD

PICCADILLY

REGENT STREET

S

HA

FT

ES

BU

RY

AV

E

BREWER STREET

PICCADILLY CIRCUS

PiccadillyCircus

EX

CE

LL

EN

CE

OF

LO

ND

ON

●

H

AW

ES

& C

UR

TIS

●T

HE

ST

ING

●

BA

RB

OU

R ●

RO

YA

L C

HIN

A S

HO

P ●

PA

RIS

MIK

I ●W

HIT

TAR

D ●

ZARA HOME ●

PENHALIGON’S ●

TOYWATCH ●

BURBERRY ●

REISS ●

SUPERDRY ●

CLARKS ●

LONDON TEXTILE CO ●

● RUSSELL & BROMLEY

● T.M. LEWIN

● FOLLI FOLLIE

● THE BODY SHOP

● ZARA

● MANGO

● LILLYWHITES

● UGG AUSTRALIA

● AUSTIN REED● VIYELLA

● CHARLES TYRWHITT● MOSS BROS

● UNIQLO● LUSH

● COACHHOLLISTER ●

CA

MP

O M

AR

ZIO

●

HUNTER ●● NESPRESSO

● LOTUS● WOLFORD

OSPREY ●

FRESCOBAL CARIOCA ●

DINOSAUR DESIGN ●

BRUMMELS OF LONDON ●

ON

CE

MIL

AN

O ●

Non-Global Blue Retailer London Underground StationGlobal Blue Retailer

1. Dum Dum Donutterie

Dum Dum Donutterie produces artisan

doughnuts, which are baked rather than

fried, on a daily basis. The zebra, a mixture

of plain and chocolate croissant dough

that’s flled with chocolate buttercream, is

a favourite.

Dum Dum Donutterie, Unit 31 Box Park, 2-4 Bethnal Green Road, London E1 6GY,dumdums.co.uk

2. 1235 Donuts

Chef Brad Macdonald, the man behind the

much-loved restaurant the Lockhart, and

his wife Molly, serve southern US-style

doughnuts once a week at Colombia Road

market. Be there early, as these treats are

sure to sell out quickly. They are also now

available from the Lockhart.

1235 Donuts, Colombia Road E2 7RG; available from 10am on Sundays; the Lockhart, 22-24 Seymour Place, London W1H 7NL, +44 (0)20 3011 5400, lockhartlondon.com

3. Bread Ahead

The man behind the outstanding dough-

nuts at St John restaurant, Justin Gellatly

now has his own bakery store at Borough

Market. Experiment with the doughnut

varieties, such as the salted honey comb,

and pick up some bread or book onto a

baking course while you’re here.

Bread Ahead, 3 Cathedral Street, London SE1 9DE, +44 (0)20 7407 7853, breadahead.com

TOP 3…DOUGHNUTS

3

P.104

P.40

SHOP | 81

Covent Garden Market Hall, King Street, Henrietta Street & Southampton Street

Place Of InterestRestaurant Featured In This Issue

JAMES STREET

TAVISTOCKSTREET

MAIDENLANE

KINGSTREET

CoventGardenMarket

HENRIETTASTREET

SOUTHAMPTON STREET

EXETERSTREET

LONDON

TRANSPORT

MUSEUM

● MOLTON BROWN

● PENHALIGON’S

● TEA PALACE

● AESOP

● JOY

● BRORA

● LUSH

● L’OCCITANE

● CRABTREE & EVELYN

CARAT ●

KABIRI ●

PIAZZA ●

JAMIE’S ●

G SHOCK ●

CASIO ●

LINKS ●

DIOR ●

CHANEL ●

BURBERRY ●

GODIVA ●

LADURÉE ●

QUIKSILVER ●

ORIGINAL PENGUIN ●

BUILD-A-BEAR ●

THE DISNEY STORE ●

BRIDGES ●

KURT GEIGER ●

APPLE STORE ●

RUGBY RALPH LAUREN ●

MOLESKIN ●

BURBERRY ●

LYLE & SCOTT ●

PALMS ●

OPENING CEREMONY ●

THE SUIT COMPANY ●

MOSS BROS ●

● OAKLEY

● DESTINY

● VILBREQUIN

● JO MALOME

● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND

● OLIVER SWEENEY

● MELISSA

PARAMO ●

THE ARMY GYM ●

KATHMANDU ●

EA

ST

●

PR

ET

TY

GR

EE

N ●

FR

ED

PE

RR

Y ●

PA

PE

RC

HA

SE

●

CO

TS

WO

LD

●

EL

LIS

BR

IGH

AM

MO

UN

TA

IN S

PO

RT

S ●

● T

RE

SP

AS

S

● T

HE

NO

RT

H F

AC

E

ROYAL OPERA HOUSE

AFRICA CENTRE

ShakeShack

Rules

BLOOM PERFUMERY

Having only been open for a few

years, Bloom has quickly become

an authority on niche fragrances

and bodycare products. The

charming Shoreditch boutique

only stocks brands that meet

its criteria of craftsmanship,

top-quality materials, vision

and originality. As a result, you

can expect to fnd only the very

best perfumes, home fragrances

and bath and body products,

from the likes of Frapin, Jardins

d’Ecrivains and Cire Trudon.

Bloom Perfumery,

4 Hanbury Street, London E1

6QR, +44 (0)20 7247 6148,

bloomperfume.co.uk

82 | GUIDE

Long Acre

Floral Street & James Street

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

London Underground StationFeatured In This Issue

Shopping Centre/Mall

Restaurant

KINGSTREET

MERCERSTREET

SHELTONSTREET

Covent GardenMarket

JAMESSTREET

NEALSTREET

FLORALSTREET

LONGACRE

LONGACRE

COVENT GARDEN

FRENCH CONNECTION ●

GEOX ●

MARKS & SPENCER ●

HOBBS ●

REISS ●

RUSSELL & BROMLEY ●

GARDEN PHARMACY ●

CALVIN KLEIN ●

GAP KIDS ●

JACK WOLFSKIN ●

MASSIMO DUTTI ●

THE WATCH HUT ●

COS ●BANANA REPUBLIC ●

BARBOUR ●JACK WILLS ●

L K BENNETT ●

● RYMANALL

● SAINTS

● ZARA● HAWES & CURTIS

● BEN SHERMAN● RAY BAN

● SUNGLASS HUT

● UGG AUSTRALIA

● MUJI

● ECCO

● LES NEREIDES

● ASPINAL OF LONDON

● REEBOK

● GAP● H&M

● RABEANCO

● WHISTLES● PANDORA

● CANDELA● JIGSAW

● ESPRIT● TK MAXX

● STANFORDS

● MCA

● REISS

ELLIOT RHODES ●

● SNOW & ROCKSt. Martins Courtyard

RELAX ●

YOTOPIA ●

Bill’s

Dalla Terra

● DUO

JOULES ●

JAMESSTREET

KINGSTREET

MERCERSTREET

Covent Garden Market

FLORALSTREET

LONGACRE

COVENT GARDEN

KAREN MILLEN ●

DUNE ●TRUE

RELIGION ●

FOSSIL ●

THE BODY SHOP ●

SWAROVSKI ●

● SUNGLASS HUT

● OASIS

● ACCESSORIZE

● MONSOON

● BOOTS

● SKECHERS

PAUL SMITH SHOES ●

PAUL SMITH ●

CAMPER ●

MULBERRY ●

RADLEY ●

AGNÈS B ●

TINTIN SHOP ●

PAUL & JOE ●

H&M ●

BETSEY JOHNSON ●

ASH ●

● TED BAKER

● NICOLE FARHI

● THE SANCTUARY

● AUBIN & WILLS

● Y-3

● NIGEL HALL

SHOP | 83

Monmouth Street & Neal Street

globalblue.com

EARLHAM STREET

ME

RC

ER

ST

RE

ET

SHELTO

N S

TREET

SH

OR

TS

GA

RD

EN

S

NE

AL

ST

RE

ET

NE

AL

ST

RE

ET

EN

DE

LL S

T

MO

NM

OU

TH

ST

RE

ET

MO

NM

OU

TH

ST

RE

ET

LO

NG

AC

RE

COVENT GARDEN

CAMPER ●

TIMBERLAND ●

DR. MARTENS ●

THE TEA H

OUSE ●

NATURAL SHO

E STO

RE ●

ALDO ●

SIZE? ●

JOSEF SEIB

EL ●

WESC ●

PEPE JEANS ●

FOOD F

OR

THOUGHT ●

TOM

CAT

LEATHER ●

● CANELA

● N

IKE S

TORE

●M

ANGO

DAVID

● C

LULO

W

●GU

ESS

ESCENTUALS

●BARE

●M

AC

●THE O

RGANIC P

HARMACY

●FREDDY

●AM

ERICAN A

PPAREL

● S

HU UEM

URA

●TABIO

●VIV

O BAREFO

OT

●Y

UMI

●O

FFSPRING

●FO

CUS

●CARHARTT

●PY

LONES

●CRO

CS

AS

TR

OL

OG

Y

●S

HO

P●

SO

LE

●B

IRK

EN

ST

OC

K

● F

ILO

FA

X

URBAN OUTFIT

TERS ●

DIESEL ●

DESTINY ●

OROGOLD COSMETICS ●

HOTEL CHOCOLAT ●

SCRIBBLER ●

FRED PERRY ●

OFFICE ●

LOLLIPOPS PARIS ●

SUPERGA ●

ENERGIE ●

SPEEDO ●

MISS SIXTY ●

● BARACUTTA

● G-STAR RAW

● LONDON GRAPHIC CENTRE

● S

PACE N K

CATH KID

STON ●

ADOLFO

DOM

INGUEZ ●

● CRAZY PIG DESIGNS

NEAL’S

YARD

DAIR

Y●

DEZEEN SUPER STORE ●

LAURA LEEJEWELLERY ●

TATTY DEVINE ●

SCREEN FACE ●

POP BOUTIQUE ●

MILLER HARRIS ●

UNCONDITIONAL ●

MURDOCK LONDON ●

● SASSOON

LARSSON ● & JENNINGS

● BASE

● DRESS CIRCLE

● POSTE MISTRESS

● GUDRUN SJODEN

● MARKET

● BREAKPOINT

● ROSSODESIRA

● MYSTERIES

● ORION

● COCO DE MER

● STUART PHILIPS

● KIEHL’S

● ORLA KIELY

● THE LOFT

● WOLSEY

● ALBAM

P.20

P.84

P.85

PRESENT

Founded in 2009, Present is now

one of London’s foremost mens-

wear destinations. Located on

Shoreditch High Street, it’s worth

visiting for its stellar selection of

longstanding British brands such

as Mackintosh, Tricker’s and

Nigel Cabourn.

Present,

140 Shoreditch High Street,

London E1 6JE,

+44 (0)20 7033 0500,

present-london.com

MY CITY: DAVID PHILPOT

84 | GU I DE

‘The West End and Chelsea are

my favourite areas of the city, as

there’s always hustle and bustle.

There are some great hidden

gems too, like some of my fa-

vourite shops: Crazy Pig De-

signs * p.83 in Soho which is a

great jewellery store, Blaqua for

shirts, Sir Tom Baker for tailor-

ing and R Soles in Chelsea for

boots.

‘There are so many cool and

interesting places to see, and I

fnd that it constantly changes,

so you’re always fnding some-

thing new. I always like to stop

Above (clockwise from lef): Bar Italia; Neal’s Yard Dairy cheeses; Sir Tom Baker suit crafsmanship; I Camisa & Sons

David Philpot is head chef at the popular restaurant Paternoster Chop House in the City of London. He talks to Isabella Redmond

Styles about his recommendations for the shops and places to visit in the capitalpaternosterchophouse.co.uk

PH

OT

O: D

AU

VIT

AL

EX

AN

DE

R C

C B

Y-N

C-S

A 2

.0

GU I DE | 85

of at Bar Italia; it’s a great little

café, it’s got the best cofee in

town and is a good place to sit and

chat with friends and watch the

world go by. For authentic Ital-

ian food, I head to I Camisa &

Sons, while I think that Neal’s

Yard Dairy * p.83 has the best

cheese. Gerry’s in Soho is my

go-to shop for wines and spirits.

‘My latest local discovery

is Hill & Szrok near Lon-

don Fields; I’m rather ob-

sessed with this small butchers

and restaurant.

‘I like to get around town on

my Harley Davidson. On my days

of I like to park up my bike and

walk through the West End – one

of my favourite routes is through

Soho and down to Covent Gar-

den as it’s so full of culture. I also

like to stroll down King’s Road.

‘One of my favourite views

is from Paternoster Chop

House, where you can

look up at neighbouring St

Paul’s Cathedral.

My tip for anyone visiting the

city would be to keep your eyes

open – there’s so much to see in

London. Explore every corner

as you never know what will ap-

pear around it – there are so many

quirky pop-ups and residencies

taking over the capital that might

be there one week and gone the

next as. It’s constantly changing

and that’s no bad thing.’

PH

OT

O: ©

DU

NC

AN

FIN

DL

AT

ER

20

10

PH

OT

O: R

DH

CC

BY

-NC

2.0

PH

OT

O: H

AR

RY

DA

RB

Y

globalblue.com

86 | GU I DE

BICESTER VILLAGE

Located just one hour

away from central London,

Bicester Village is sur-

rounded by picturesque

countryside and is close to

the historic city of Oxford.

Bicester Village plays host

to more than 130 boutiques

from leading big-name

brands and creative up-and-

coming labels.

Bicester Village,

50 Pingle Drive, Bicester,

Oxfordshire OX26 6WD,

+44 (0)1869 323266,

bicestervillage.com

Opening times

Monday-Friday: 10am-7pm

Saturday: 9am-8pm

Sunday: 10am-7pm*

*On Sundays Burberry,

Gucci, Hugo Boss and

Polo Ralph Lauren open at

11.30am for browsing and

at 12pm for shopping; they

close at 6pm. Prada and

Versace open from 12pm to

6pm for shopping.

Barbour

Founded in 1894, family-

owned Barbour remains

in north-east England and

espouses the values of the

British countryside and mo-

torcycle heritage in its beau-

tifully functional clothing.

FEATURED STORES

Oscar de la Renta

Add a touch of Hollywood

glamour to your wardrobe

with a trip to Oscar de la

Renta. The designer is

known for producing inher-

ently feminine pieces that are

red-carpet ready.

A suite of services includes

the award-winning Bicester

Visitor Centre, a children’s

play area, valet parking,

Hands-free Shopping, in-

stant tax refunds and money

change, a contemplation

room and personal stylists.

globalblue.com

SERVICES

SHOP | 87

HOW TO GET THEREBy Train

There are up to three train

services an hour from London

Marylebone to Bicester

North station, increasing to

four in September 2015; the

journey can take as little as 42

minutes. The Bicester Village

Shuttle Bus will whisk you to

your favourite boutiques.

By Shopping Express®

The Shopping Express® is

the daily* coach service from

central London to Bicester

Village, one of the world’s

premier luxury shopping

destinations.

*excludes 25 December

Ticket prices:

Adult return £28

Child return £23

(up to 15 years of age)

By Car

The journey from London

takes 60 minutes. Take the

M40 motorway to exit nine.

Follow the A41 for two miles

towards Bicester and then

follow the signs to Village

Retail Park and Bicester

Village Outlet Centre. The

car park is free. If you are

using a satellite navigation

system, the postcode is

OX26 6WD.

10am

Salvatore Ferragamo, set

up in Italy in 1927, produces

exquisite shoes, menswear,

womenswear, fragrances and

eyewear collections.

1pm

Stop for lunch at Italian

restaurant Carluccio’s. The

menu includes fresh pasta,

risotto and salad dishes,

while the atmosphere is lively

and relaxed.

PERFECT DAY

5pm

End your day admiring the

stylish and hard-wearing

luggage at Samsonite. An

item from here will be ideal

for transporting your pur-

chases home safely.

3pm

An American brand rooted

in quality and craftsmanship,

Coach is synonymous with

the ease and sophistication of

New York style.

88

WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD,SHOP TAX FREE

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces.

Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop 2. Claim

Spend a minimum of £30 and save up to 11% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

Contacttaxfree@globalblue.com+421 232 111 111

Refund Ofces:

London Heathrow Terminal 1London Heathrow Terminal 2London Heathrow Terminal 3London Heathrow Terminal 4London Heathrow Terminal 5

London Gatwick North TerminalLondon Gatwick South Terminal

London Oxford StreetLondon WestfeldsLondon Harrods

/ 9994

100

globalblue.com

89

TRANSLATIONS

Верити Хоган прогулялась по лондонскому кварталу Карнаби-Стрит, который в 1960-е стал центром независимой британской моды и не утратил популярности в наши дни

В 1966 году Time Magazine объявил небольшую улицу в Сохо сердцем «свингующего Лондона». С тех пор Карнаби-Стрит и ее окрестности превратились в эпицентр лондонского стиля. В 1960-70-е здесь можно было встретить музыкантов Rolling Stones, Kinks, Jimi Hendrix и Sex Pistols, которые одевались в независимых бутиках, играли концерты в клубах и просто проводили время в местных

46: The Cool Quarter

Стильный квартал

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД

заведениях. Музыка, мода и бунтарский дух формируют особую атмосферу Карнаби с тех пор.

В начале 19 века Карнаби-Стрит была тихой улочкой с мастерскими, парой магазинов и ресторанов. Ее перевоплощение началось в 1952 году, когда пожар вынудил Джона Стефана оставить помещение на Бик-Стрит и открыть магазин мужской одежды на Карнаби-Стрит. Вскоре вокруг него начали появляться крошечные независимые бутики, где продавалась доступная и модная одежда, востребованная прогрессивной молодежью. Lord John, Take Six, Gear и I was

globalblue.com

90

Lord Kitchener’s Valet быстро прославились, благодаря запоминающимся, ярким коллекциям. Дизайнеры были готовы на многое, чтобы именно в этом квартале представить свои оригинальные, зачастую даже чрезмерно, идеи.

Сегодня Карнаби-Стрит остается одной из самых популярных торговых улиц в столице. Многие бренды открыли здесь свои флагманские бутики, работают рестораны высокого класса, проводятся разнообразные мероприятия. Гости всего мира, как и лондонцы, устремляются на Карнаби в поисках шоппинга и развлечений. Развиваются и отношения этого места с британским музыкальным

миром. В частности, бывший лидер группы Oasis Лиам Галлахер выбрал Карнаби-Стрит для первого магазина своей марки Pretty Green. Многие бренды, прописавшиеся здесь, плотно связаны с музыкальной индустрией: Dr Martens и Great Frog – из их числа. Чтобы поближе познакомиться с музыкальной историей Карнаби-Стрит, имеет смысл скачать приложение Carnaby Echoes. Этот интерактивный гид снабжен материалами и интервью в формате видео и аудио, которые запускаются, когда слушатель проходит мимо особенно интересных мест этого квартала.

Здесь сама атмосфера порождает необыкновенные

PH

OT

O: J

OH

N P

RA

TT

/KE

YS

TO

NE

FE

AT

UR

ES

/GE

TT

Y IM

AG

ES

91

идеи: так, многие магазины начали предлагать услугу создания одежды и обуви на заказ. В Dr Martens по индивидуальной мерке готовят легендарную обувь. В концепт-сторе Paul Smith открыли сервис пожива джинсов, а также на заказ создают эксклюзивные подкладки для костюмов в духе Сохо.

Калифорнийская часовая компания Nixon совсем недавно основала свое представительство на Ньюберг-Стрит, переняв здешний креативный и молодежный дух. В бутике работает «часовой бар» - мастерская, где при участии профессионалов посетители могут создать собственные часы, каких больше нет ни

у кого. В качестве основы используются три модели Nixon – Sentry, Time Teller и 48-20 Chrono. Постоянным клиентам предлагают самим подобрать разнообразные элементы и детали. Из них часовой мастер создает индивидуальные часы, оспорить эксклюзивность которых просто невозможно.

Адрес на Карнаби – своего рода знак отличия для бренда. Поэтому многие международные компании выбирают Карнаби-Стрит в качестве своей единственной точки в Великобритании. В их числе – шведский лейбл Monki со своими привлекающими внимание коллекциями, бездонный источник парижского шика ElevenParis и

globalblue.com

92

54: Revolution By Design

Революция Дизайна

Бунтарь с Sevile Row Эдвард Секстон раскрывает свой легко узнаваемый стиль в новой линии прет-а-порте, как выяснил Джош Смит

Edward Sexton возможно не самое известное имя в мире британской моды, вы не найдете упоминания о нем на рекламных щитах или в журналах по всему миру. Его вклад в английский стиль известен строго в пределах Великобритании, в то время как его когда-то партнер Томми Наттер более узнаваем среди тех, кто знает толк в хорошем костюме. Однако все меняется. Несмотря на свой преклонный возраст, легендарный элитный портной недавно выпустил свою первую коллекцию по индивидуальному заказу, а также линию прет-а-порте, включающую в себя галстуки из кашемира и шелка, шарфы, платки-паше с огуречным и макро принтами и искусно сшитые рубашки с воротником на пуговице и на булавке.

«Мне до сих пор нравится портняжное дело – это мое хобби, - объясняет Секстон, покинувший Sevile Row для того, чтобы стать специалистом по мужской одежде в Knights-bridge в 1980-х. – Мне так же нравится ходить на работу в 72, как когда мне было 17. Молодые люди, что работают

испанская марка Lavand.«Мы выбрали Карнаби для

открытия нашего магазина, поскольку еще с 1960-х эта улица остается центром притяжения для молодой культуры и уличной моды. Это идеальный вариант для нашего бренда с 54-летней историей, - объясняет Эми Нельсон, менеджер по маркетингу Dr Martens. – Как и Dr Mar-tens, Карнаби продолжает заново открывать себя спустя десятилетия, вместе с тем оставаясь в тренде и сохраняя связь с музыкой».

В последние годы в районе Карнаби стало заметно больше заведений для гурманов. На недавно отремонтированной улице Kingly Court работают самые обсуждаемые заведения столицы: пиццерия Pizza Pilgrim, рестораны морепродуктов Wright Broth-ers Soho и индийской кухни Cinnamon Soho. Ароматы перуанской Лимы гостям и жителям центрального Лондона открывает Señor Ceviche – одно из последних открытий. «Карнаби-Стрит – настоящая находка для нас, - делится основатель ресторана Гарри Эдмидс. – Здесь всегда многолюдно, и приходят самые разные люди. Поскольку наша цель – познакомить лондонцев с перуанской кухней, то именно этот район по-настоящему открывает нам такую возможность».carnaby.co.uk

93

здесь, рассказывают мне, что сейчас модно, хотя я не очень увлекаюсь трендами. Мне нравится элегантная одежда».

Секстон, разумеется, сам был когда-то одним из таких молодых людей. Его вклад в лондонский пошив костюмов был революционным. Секстон, специалист по тканям, и Наттер, торговец и стильный стратег, основали Nutters of Savile Row в 1969 году и представили концепт одежды на заказ поколению, которое до этого считало его выбором исключительно «старой гвардии». Партнеры открыли

свое ателье с витринами (неслыханной роскошью в те времена) и пошитыми костюмами с современным очарованием той эпохи – узкая талия, прямые брюки, широкие лацканы с широким углом были отличительными чертами Секстона, которые так хорошо вписались в свингующие 60-е. Мик Джагер, Эрик Клэптон и Твигги числились среди клиентов магазина, а Beatles появились на обложке альбома Abbey Road в одежде от Секстона. «Мы не знали, что то, что мы собирались сделать, вызовет настоящий

globalblue.com

94

88: When you shop the world,

shop tax free

Совершая покупки по всему

миру, совершайте их с Tax Free

фурор, - говорит Секстон, - Мы просто были двумя молодыми парнями, которым нравилось смотреть в витрины, поэтому мы решили ничем их не заставлять. Мы не знали, что идем против традиции. Но это позволило новым идеям пошива одежды вырваться за рамки привычного. Даже время оказалось удачным – Лондон в те времена приветствовал культ инноваций. Это была удача. Мне очень повезло в жизни, я ничего этого не планировал».

Во время работы над созданием костюма на заказ для Пола Маккартни Секстон познакомился с его дочерью Стеллой, которая попросила его оценить пошив одежды, который она представила будучи креативным директором Chloé и инкорпорировала в свой собственный лейбл. Что, в свою очередь, позволило ему стать редким экспертом и женских костюмов; этот талант привлек таких клиентов, как Энни Леннокс и Кейт Мосс. «Вы не можете просто руководствоваться правилами мужского кроя, создавая костюм для женщины. Тогда они будут выглядеть так, словно одели мужской пиджак», - замечает Секстон.

Что касается прет-а-порте, то дизайнер конечно выждал достаточно времени. Так зачем начинать сейчас? Известно, что большинство портных, работающих по заказу, достаточно

скептично относятся к этой идее. «Я всегда восхищался прет-а-порте, особенно, аксессуарами, - возражает Секстон, - Ведь именно ими вы завершаете костюм. В нем нет ничего интересного, пока вы не добавите правильный галстук, например. Конечно я помню те времена, когда пре-а-порте на существовало. Но современные технологии производства помогли ему достичь вершины и обеспечили отличное качество. Я же теперь стремлюсь к новой вершине». Чертами его костюмов на заказ, например, являются высокие проймы, привязанные рукава и расклешённые «юбки» - эталоны индивидуального пошива. Итальянские рубашки отличаются таким же вниманием к крою: воротнички созданы так, что они «сидят гордо», как выражается Секстон, поэтому застегнуты они или нет, они всегда выглядят наглаженными. Возможно, Маккартни снова обратится к портному. Хотя интерес звезд не так уж важен для Секстона. «У меня нет времени на звездную лихорадку, - говорит он, - Я просто поставляю лучшую одежду покупателям, независимо от того, кем они являются». edwardsexton.co.uk

95

Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shop-ping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира.Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

1. В магазинеГде бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки.

2. При выездеВозвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов.

Контакты:taxfree@globalblue.com+421 232 111 111Потратьте минимум £30 и сэкономьте до 11% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

伦敦市中心的一部分自20世纪60年

代就开始集中展现英伦风格，延续至

今依然备受欢迎。Verity Hogan将带

你走进卡纳比街（Carnaby Street）

19 6 6年，《时代》杂志将苏豪区

（Soho）边缘区域的一小块地方誉

为“摇摆伦敦”的心脏。从那以后，卡

纳比街及其周边的街头巷尾成为了可

以代表伦敦酷劲的震源。在60和70

年代，滚石乐队、奇想乐队、吉米·亨

德里克斯和性手枪乐队都是这里的常

客。他们在卡纳比街上的独立精品店

里购物，在俱乐部里演出，在当地的餐

厅里聚会。音乐、时尚和一丝叛逆的感

觉从来都是卡纳比街体验的一部分。

在19世纪早期，卡纳比街还是一片

安静的区域，这里除了一些商店和餐

厅还有车间工坊。其转型始于1952

46: The Cool Quarter

酷派城区

美文翻译

PH

OT

O: F

EL

IX C

AR

RE

TT

O

globalblue.com

96

年，当时一场大火迫使约翰·史蒂芬

（John Stephen）将他的男装店从附

近的比克街（Beak Street）搬到卡纳

比街。之后各种各样的小型独立店铺

迅速蜂拥而至，为一个青春洋溢的客

户群提供实惠又时尚的衣服。Lord

John, Take Six, Gear和 ‘I was

Lord Kitchener’s Valet’等店铺以

其夸张醒目的时装系列而闻名，设计

师们争相将最具原创性，通常也是最

光怪陆离的点子带到这个区域。

如今，卡纳比街成为了伦敦最抢手

的购物街区之一。这里有许多旗舰店、

高级餐厅和多样化的活动，吸引了全

世界的游客，也将成群结队的伦敦人

带到这个区域。它和英国音乐圈的联

系仍然很强：就在此地，前绿洲乐队

主唱连恩•盖勒格（Liam Gallagher）

为他的时尚品牌Pretty Green开设

了第一家店铺。许多其他与音乐界紧

密相连的品牌，比如Dr Martens 和

Great Frog也在这里设有店铺。与此

同时，Carnaby Echoes，一款互动式

步行游览这片区域的应用程序，可以

让游客们在经过特定的地址时获得影

片和音频采访介绍，给游客们深入了

解这里多样化音乐历史的机会。

为了与这片区域的独特风格一致，

一些驻扎在此地的店铺提供定制服

务。逛一逛Dr Martens，买一双定制

的靴子；或者去Paul Smith苏豪区概

念店，这里提供定制牛仔的服务以及

独家的苏豪风格西服里衬。

加州手表公司Nixon是这里最新

开的店铺。位于钮堡街（Newburgh

Street）上的这家店铺非常契合卡纳

比街的创意和朝气蓬勃的精神。这里

拥有一个工作坊式的定制吧，顾客们

PH

OT

O: ©

RAY

ST

EV

EN

SO

N/R

EX

FE

AT

UR

ES

97

萨维尔街（Savile Row）反叛者Ed-

ward Sexton将他独树一帜的剪裁风

格带进新的成衣系列里。Josh Sims

报道

Edward Sexton可能并不是一个出现

在全球广告牌和杂志上的英国时尚圈

人物。确实，即便在英国，他对于英伦

时尚的贡献也不易被察觉；对于喜欢

精裁西装的人来说，和Edward Sex-

ton合作过一次的Tommy Nutter更

为人所熟知。不过事情可能要发生变

化了。尽管已经过了退休的年龄，这位

传奇的定制裁缝现在推出了他的第一

个量身定做系列以及一个成衣系列，

后者包括了开司米羊毛和真丝打造的

54: Revolution By Design

设计革命

可以设计一款属于他们自己的独一

无二的手表。展现了卡纳比街独立的

传统，这个定制吧可以让顾客们从各

种各样的零部件和蚀刻细节选项中

进行挑选，以创建一款定制的手表。

三个型号的手表可以进行个性化定

制——Sentry, Time Teller和48-20

Chrono。

一个卡纳比街的地址具有某种特

别魅力。同落户此地的英国品牌一起，

许多国际大公司选择将卡纳比街作为

他们在英国的唯一根据地，其中包括

了瑞典品牌Monki，其俏皮的时装系

列可以助你在人群中脱颖而出。还有

为卡纳比街带来巴黎式别致风尚的

品牌ElevenParis，以及西班牙品牌

Lavand。

“我们选择将卡纳比街作为我们

店铺的地址，是因为这里从60年代开

始就是青年文化和街头时尚的中心，

使之成为我们这一家拥有54年历史

品牌的理想选址，”Dr Martens的市

场部经理Amy Nelson说。“就像Dr

Martens一样，在过去的几十年间，卡

纳比街在保持自身引领潮流的时尚身

份和与音乐紧密联系的同时也重新改

造了自己。”

近些年来，这里提供的美食种类

迅速增加，让卡纳比街成为了一个美

食地标。重新翻修的Kingly Court

拥有伦敦最令人称道的餐厅，从休闲

的披萨店Pizza Pilgrim到海鲜餐厅

Wright Brothers Soho，以及广受赞

誉的印度餐厅Cinnamon Soho。秘

鲁餐厅Señor Ceviche是这里最新开

张的餐厅之一，它将利马市中心的风

味带到了伦敦市中心。“卡纳比街是

我们明智的选择，”餐厅创始人Harry

Edmeades说。“这里总是人头攒动，

吸引了有意思的人群。我们的目标是

让伦敦人可以更加轻松地获得秘鲁美

食和饮品，选址在此让这一切成为可

能。”

carnaby.co.uk

globalblue.com

98

七褶领带，佩斯利印花和大色块印花

的围巾和西服口袋方巾，做工巧妙的

有襻领和针孔领衬衫。

“我还是喜欢剪裁——这是我的

爱好，”Sexton说。上个世纪80年代，

他离开伦敦的萨维尔街成为了骑士

桥（Knightsbridge）的一名男装专

家。“现在，在72岁时又开始工作就跟

我17岁时一样兴奋。在这里工作的年

轻人让我了解到街头时尚的新趋势，

尽管我并不是那么喜欢这种潮流。我

喜欢睿智的高雅穿着。”

当然，Sexton也曾经是这些年轻

人中的一员。他对于伦敦裁缝界的贡

献是具有革命性的。布料大师Sex-

ton和销售员兼时尚远景师的Nutter

在1969年创立了Nutters of Savile

Row，并将定制剪裁的观念引入了这

个将定制视为守旧派专属的年代。两

人在萨维尔街开设了自己的店铺，还

给店铺装上了那时候还闻所未闻的橱

窗。他们的西装洋溢着那个时代的风

格——细腰、平腿裤、宽尖角翻领，这

些都是Sexton的招牌，与摇摆时髦的

60年代相互呼应。Mick Jagger，Eric

Clapton和Twiggy都成为了他们的

顾客，甲壳虫乐队在他们《艾比路》

（Abbey Road）那张专辑的封面就

穿着Sexton。

“我们并不 知 道我们会引起 轰

动，”Sexton说。“我们只是两个喜欢

看商店橱窗的年轻人，所以在橱窗里

摆放东西我们也没有多想。我们并不

知道那会挑战传统。不过这却将剪裁

新想法通过一个非常封闭的世界传

播了出去。时机又恰巧合适——那个

时候的伦敦正在推崇创新。真的是运

气。我的一生都极其走运——没有什

么是计划好的。”

通过为Paul McCartney定制西

装，Sexton认识了他的女儿Stella，

因此有机会在Stella时任Chloé创意

总监期间主持了该品牌的剪裁工作，

并于其后参与了Stella自己的品牌。这

反过来让他拥有了为女士裁剪西装的

罕见专长，这样的才能吸引了Annie

99

当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多

家商店消费时，环球蓝联（Globa l

B lue）购物 退税服务（Tax Fre e

Shopping）为您节约购物开销。

每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球

蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，

您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星

标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联

（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们

简单的退税过程：

1. 消费购物

无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联

退税表格（Global Blue Tax Free

Form），并记得保存小票。

2. 申请退税

当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城

市的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格

上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联的退税点

领取您的退税款。

联系方式：

taxfree@globalblue.com

+421 232 111 111

最低消费 £30并且节约高达购买价格

11%的税。请注意：最终退款将包含

增值税总额，但是要扣除管理手续

费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单

位收取现金退税手续费。

88: When you shop the world,

shop tax free

畅购全球，尊享退税

Lennox 和Kate Moss的喜爱，她们

纷纷成为了Sexton的顾客。“你不能

仅仅只是将传统的男士剪裁手艺嫁接

到女装身上。这样到最后她们就好像

穿了一件男式夹克，”Sexton注意到。

在成衣方面，Sexton肯定是迟到

了。那么现在他又为什么这样做了呢？

确实，大多数的定制裁缝师一直非常

不屑于这样的想法。“我一直非常欣

赏成衣，特别是配饰。”Sexton说，“是

这些配饰与西装产生了浪漫的化学反

应。西装就只是一件西装——但是举

个例子说，一条合适的领带会让西装

看上去不同，穿起来也有非常不一样

的感觉。我当然记得成衣还没有真正

出现的时候。但是现在生产的进步意

味着它已经真正到达了顶峰，拥有卓

越的质量。现在我的目标是掀起一个

新的高峰。”

比如说，他定制的西装都是高袖

孔、拉拢袖和喇叭“裙”——定制的基

准。意大利布料衬衫同样关注工艺：

就像Sexton所描述的那样，领子被设

计成为“正襟危坐”，这样无论扎紧与

否，它们看起来都有一种整洁爽俐的

感觉。也许McCartney会再度光临。

这并不是说Sexton太在意名人的兴

趣。“我可承受不起明星来袭，”他说，“

我只是在那里为顾客提供最好的衣

服，无论他们是谁。”

edwardsexton.co.uk

globalblue.com

100

تقدم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blue خدمة Tax Free التسوق من دون دفع الضيبة

لتدخر الال لدى تسوقك ف أكث من 270,000 متجر ف أبرز مناطق التسوق حول العال.

فلم ل تنضم إل الـ 26 مليون مسافر الذين يتسوقون من دون دفع الضيبة من خلل

غلوبل بلو Global Blue كل سنة؟ ما عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن

غلوبل بلو Global Blue وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة.

1. تسوقأينم تسوقت، أطلب الحصول عل طلب

Global استداد الضيبة الخاص بغلوبل بلوBlue وتذكر أن تحتفظ باليصالت.

2. أطلبف طريق العودة إل وطنك، أقصد مكتب

الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد مكاتب

الستداد الخاصة بنا.

للتصال:taxfree@globalblue.com

+421 232 111 111

أنفق حدا أدن قدره 30£ وادخر حتى 11% من ثن مشتياتك. يشمل مبلغ الستداد

النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري. ف بعض

الطارات، يفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول

عل استداد فوري نقدي.

When you shop the world

،shop tax free :88

عندما تتسوق حول العال، تسوق من دون دفع الضيبة

Jagger وEric Clapton وTwiggy كم

ارتدى فريق Beatles تصاميم Sexton عل Sexton يقول .Abbey Road غلف ألبوم

ف هذا الصدد: "ل نتوقع أن تولد ابتكاراتنا هذا النفعال. كنا مجرد شابي يحبان تأمل واجهات

الحلت، فلم نتدد ف تركيب واجهات". ل نعلم أننا كنا نتحدى التقاليد. لكننا تكنا بذلك أن

ننش أفكارا جديدة عن الخياطة ف عال مغلق إل حد كبي. وكان التوقيت ممتازا إذ شجعت

لندن آنذاك ثقافة البتكار. حالفنا الحظ. ولطالا كان الحظ إل جانبي ف الحياة، ل أخطط لي

من ذلك."صمم Sexton بدلت بحسب الطلب لـ Stella فالتقى ابنته Paul McCartney

وأشف عل خياطة كل اللبس التي قدمتها كمديرة قسم التصميم لدى Chloé ولعلمتها الخاصة. بالتال، اكتسب خبة فريدة من نوعها

ف تفصيل بدلت للنساء؛ وقد جذبت هذه Kateو Annie Lennox الوهبة زبائن مثل

Moss. يقول Sexton: "ل يكنك أن تعتمد

الطرق التقليدية للخياطة الخاصة بلبس الرجال لتفصل للنساء، إذ ستبدو الرأة وكأنها

ترتدي ستة رجل."ف ما يتعلق بالتصاميم الجاهزة، بالطبع

يأت Sexton ف أسفل القائة. إذا، ل الدخول ف هذا الجال؟ ف الواقع، هزأ معظم الخياطي

:Sexton تاريخيا بهذه الفكرة. يقول"لطالا أحببت التصاميم الجاهزة وبخاصة

الكسسوارات لنها تجمل البدلة. فالبدلة مجرد بدلة، لكن بتنسيقها مع ربطة عنق ملئة

عل سبيل الثال، تبدو مختلفة وتبعث شعورا مختلفا لدى لبسها. بالطبع، أذكر عندما ل يكن

هناك من تصاميم جاهزة عل الطلق. لكن بفضل طرق التصنيع التطورة اليوم، وصلت إل

أوجها وباتت ممتازة الجودة. أسعى حاليا إل تحقيق إنجاز جديد."

عل سبيل الثال، تتمتع كل بدلته النفذة بحسب الطلب بفتحات أكمم ضيقة وأكمم مقوسة عند نقطة التقائها بالكتاف و"تناني" واسعة وهي من خصائص التصاميم النفذة

ة نفسها بحسب الطلب. يستخدم الحرفيف القمصان الصنوعة من القمش اليطال:

صممت الياقات "لتعتز بنفسها" عل حد قول Sexton، فتبدو مرتبة إن كانت مثبتة أم ل

تكن. قد تعود McCartney، لكنه ل يكتث كثيا لهتمم الصممة الشهية. يقول ف هذا الصدد: "ل يكنني التقيد بالنجوم. مهمتي أن

أوفر أفضل اللبس للزبون، بغض النظر من يكون."

edwardsexton.co.uk

101

إسم Tommy Nutter الذي كان شيكه ذات مرة. لكن قد تكون المور عل وشك

التغيي. بالرغم من تخطيه سن التقاعد، أطلق الخياط السطوري مؤخرا أول مجموعة ملبس

مصممة بحسب الطلب بالضافة إل خط ملبس جاهزة مؤلف من ربطات عنق من

الكشمي والحرير وأوشحة وفوط جيب ذات ة نقوش كبية مزركشة وقمصان منفذة بحرفي

ز بياقات مثبتة بشائط أو بدبابيس. تتمي Savile الذي ترك شارع Sexton يقول

Row ف لندن ليصبح متخصصا بلبس

الرجال ف Knightsbridge ف الثمنينات: "أحب الخياطة ول تزال هوايتي. ما زلت أشعر

بالحمسة نفسها عندما آت إل العمل اليوم بسن الـ 72 كم كنت أشعر عندما كنت ف

السابعة عشة. يطلعني الشباب العاملون هنا عم يطرأ عل الزياء ف الشارع بالرغم من عدم

استهوائ الوضة. أحب التصاميم التكلفة."بالطبع، كان Sexton يوما أحد هؤلء

الشباب وشكلت مساهمته ف مجال الخياطة ف لندن ثورة بحد ذاتها. تعاون Sexton سيد القمشة مع Nutter البائع ومبتكر الساليب

وأسسا محل Nutters of Savile Row سنة 1969 وقدما فكرة الخياطة بحسب الطلب

إل جيل كان قد تخل عنها باعتبارها حكرا عل Savile الكبار بالسن. افتتح الثنائ الحل فز بواجهاته، إذ ل يكن ذلك مألوفا Row وتي

آنذاك، وببدلت عصية مجارية للموضة إل حد ما؛ ابتكر Sexton الخص الضيق والسوال

ة الصدر التوازي الساقي والستة ذات طينات التأرجحة. العريضة فتمشت مع الستي

Mick فكسب الحل زبائن عل سبيل

Savile Row من Edward Sexton الرتديطعم مجموعة جديدة من اللبس الجاهزة ز، تقرير با يتمتع به من أسلوب خياطة ممي

Josh Sims

قد ل يكون Edward Sexton إسم بريطانيا ة ف مجال الزياء، يظهر عل اللوحات العلنيوف صفحات الجلت حول العال. ف الواقع،

ل تحظ مساهمته ف السلوب البيطان نسبيا بالنتباه حتى داخل الملكة التحدة حيث

ي البدلت التقنة يشتهر أكث بالنسبة إل محب

Revolution By Design :54

التصميم يفتعل ثورة

globalblue.com

102

Liam الساحة الوسيقية ف بريطانيا: فهنا قررGallagher الغني الساس السابق ف فرقة

Oasis أن يفتح أول متجر لعلمته التجارية

الختصة بالزياء Pretty Green إل جانب عدد من العلمات الرتبطة ارتباطا وثيقا بعال

The Greatو Dr Martens الوسيقى مثلFrog التي لها متاجر هنا. تجدر الشارة إل

تطبيق Carnaby Echoes الذي هو عبارة عن جولة ف النطقة سيا عل القدام، يتيح للزائر فرصة الطلع عل تاريخها الوسيقي

التنوع ويقدم مداخلت بصية وسمعية لدى الرور بحاذاة معال ذي أهمية.

’اشيا مع طابع النطقة الفريد من نوعه، توفر بعض التاجر التي وجدت ف هذا الشارع موقعا لها خدمات بحسب الطلب. يكنك شاء

Dr Martens جزمة بحسب الطلب منأو زيارة التجر التخصص Paul Smith ف

Soho الذي يوفر خدمة تفصيل جينز بحسب .Soho الطلب وبطانة بدلة مستوحاة من

من أحدث التاجر التي افتتحت ف النطقة،

شكة الساعات الكاليفورنية Nixon. يقع التجر ف شارع Newburgh ويتمش بامتياز مع طابع الشارع البتكر الشباب ويقدم خدمة تصميم بحسب الطلب مستوحاة من مشغل،

حيث يكن الزائر ابتكار ساعته الفريدة من Carnaby نوعها. تعكس هذه الخدمة إرث

الستقل وتتيح للزبائن فرصة النتقاء من مجموعة عناص وقطع منقوشة لبتكار ساعة مصممة بحسب الطلب. يكن الستفادة من

Sentry :هذه الخدمة ف ثلثة موديلت .Chrono 48-20و Time Tellerو

لكل الحلت ف شارع Carnaby ميزة معينة وإل جانب العلمات التجارية البيطانية

الوجودة هنا، اختارت بعض الشكات العالية شارع Carnaby ليكون مركزها الوحيد ف Monki بريطانيا ومنها العلمة السويدية

بجموعاتها الرحة الميزة عن غيها وElevenParis التي تجذب الناقة الباريسية

.Lavand والعلمة السبانية Carnaby إلتقول Amy Nelson مديرة التسويق لدى

Carnaby اختنا شارع" :Dr Martens

موقعا لتجرنا لا يثله من ثقافة شبابية وموضة شارع منذ الستينات، ما يجعله مركز تسوق مثاليا لعلمتنا التي تأسست منذ 54 سنة.

عل غرار Dr Martens، أعاد الشارع ابتكار نفسه عب العقود، محافظا عل هويته الجارية

للموضة وارتباطه بالوسيقى."أما الطاعم، فتطورت ف السنوات الخية

وبات Carnaby مقصدا لتناول الطعام. يضم مركز Kingly Court الرمم حديثا

بعض أشهر مطاعم العاصمة، من مطعم البيتزا التقليدي Pizza Pilgrim إل مطعم

Wright Brothers الأكولت البحريةSoho والطعم الهندي الذائع الصيت

Cinnamon Soho. ومن الطاعم الحديثة Señor Ceviche ف الشارع الطعم البيوي

الذي يحض نكهات وسط الدينة Lima إل Harry Edmeades وسط لندن. يقولمؤسس الطعم: "كان Carnaby ممتازا

بالنسبة لنا. إنه ناشط عل الدوام ويجذب حشودا مرحة. هدفنا زيادة نفاذ اللندنيي إل

الأكولت والشوبات البيوية وقد ساعدنا موقعنا هنا عل تحقيق ذلك."

carnaby.co.uk

103

حتضنت أحد أجزاء وسط لندن السلوب البيطان ف الستينات وما زالت تتمتع بالشهرة نفسها اليوم. تقوم Verity Hogan بجولة ف

Carnaby شارع

Time سنة 1966، أطلقت مجلةMagazine عل منطقة صغية عل طرف

Soho لقب "قلب لندن التأرجحة". ومذاك، بات شارع Carnaby ومحيطه يثل مركز

لندن اللفتة. ف خلل الستينات والسبعينات، Rolling Stones تردد إل النطقة كل من

Sex Pistolsو Jimi Hendrixو Kinksوليتسوقوا ف محلتها الستقلة ويقدموا عروضا ف نواديها ويأكلوا ف مطاعمها الحلية. ولطالا

شكلت الوسيقى والزياء ونفحة من التمرد

The Cool Quarter :46

الشارع الثي للهتمم

جزءا من التجربة ف Carnaby.ترجمة باللغة العربيةف بداية القرن التاسع عش، كان شارع

Carnaby منطقة هادئة تضم مشاغل وبعض

الحلت والطاعم. بدأ يشهد موجة تحول سنة 1952 عندما اضطر John Stephen أن

ينقل محله الخاص بلبس الرجال من شارع Beak الجاور إل شارع Carnaby نتيجة

حريق. سعان ما تبعته الكثي من الحلت الصغية الستقلة لتقدم ملبس مجارية

للموضة وبأسعار مدروسة إل زبائن يافعي. Takeو Lord John فاشتهرت متاجر مثل

I was Lord Kitchener’sو Gearو SixValet بجموعاتها الحيوية وتنافس الصممون

عل إحضار أكث الفكار ابتكارا وجرأة إل النطقة.

ما زال Carnaby اليوم من أشهر شوارع التسوق ف لندن ويضم مجموعة من التاجر الرئيسية والطاعم الفاخرة وبرنامجا متنوعا

من الناسبات التي تجذب زوارا من حول العال ولندنيي. ول يزال يحافظ عل علقة وطيدة مع

globalblue.com

104

POSTCARD

PENHALIGON’S

Established in 1870, Penhaligon’s

was originally a hairdressing salon

located near the former Turkish

baths on Jermyn Street in central

London. Its founder, William Pen-

haligon, was inspired by the aro-

mas of the baths and he soon diver-

sifed into fragrances. Still made

and bottled in England, Penhali-

gon’s scents are created using the

fnest ingredients, such as jasmine

and hand-squeezed bergamot, and

the company has long been a sup-

plier to the British royal family.

The perfumer eagerly explores the

latest fragrance technology, so each

time you open one of Penhaligon’s

ribbon-wrapped bottles, you’re ex-

periencing British tradition along-

side modern developments. th

Penhaligon’s,

125 Regent Street,

London W1B 4HT,

+44 (0)20 7434 2608,

penhaligons.com

* for map go to page 80