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星島集團全新中英文時尚月刊 EliteGen《星尚》,本地最高檔流行情報。 EliteGen is Canada's first and only Chinese and English bilingual ultra-luxury magazine published by Sing Tao Media Group.
Citation preview
Janice M
an : Hong Kon
gs BlacK WidoW
Octo
ber 2015 Vo
l. 11EliteG
en.singta
o.ca
Janice Man: Hong Kongs Black Widow
A Guide to Achieving the Goddess Look
Watch NewsBulgari, Cartier, Panerai, Vacheron Constantin, IWC, Herms
Cheval Blanc in St. BartsAn LVMH Luxury Resort
CAN$4.99
11 A publication by Sing Tao Media GroupOctoberToronto
EG011_cover_final_20150921.indd 3 23/9/2015 0:05:54
Editors KelvinWuLeslieYip
Can West KatherineCheung
Copy Editor RossHopkins
Assistant Editor CrystalNg
Contributors GraceChan,IrisChui,LorneDrury,
KensonHo,ZoeMak,ReneS.Suen,
MelTobias,ShukWaTsang,MirandaYiu
editorial
art
SaleS & marketing
PubliShing
Sing Tao Daily Limited
Vice President JohnsonYuen
Manager AmyMui
[email protected]/416-861-8168Address:221WhitehallDrive,Markham,OntarioL3R9T1
[email protected]/905-754-1532
[email protected]/905-752-0133
Read Online:EliteGen.singtao.ca
iOS App:
EliteGeninAppStore
Janice M
an : Hong Kon
gs BlacK WidoW
Octo
ber 2015 Vo
l. 11EliteG
en.singta
o.ca
Janice Man: Hong Kongs Black Widow
A Guide to Achieving the Goddess Look
Watch NewsBulgari, Cartier, Panerai, Vacheron Constantin, IWC, Herms
Cheval Blanc in St. BartsAn LVMH Luxury Resort
CAN$4.99
11 A publication by Sing Tao Media GroupOctoberToronto
EG011_cover_final_20150921.indd 3 23/9/2015 0:05:54
maSthead
Cover Story
16Janice Man
Hong Kongs BlacK WidoW
OCT
11
FaShion newS 12 RetRo LoveR 14 SeRgio RoSSi Feminine chaRm
tiFF 24 tiFF 2015 FaShion Show
elite PiCkS 42 BeSt PickS
ShowCaSe 44 RetRo LaStS FoReveR Jewelry 54 van cLeeF & aRPeLS a PaRiSian SignatuRe
interview 56 Zhang Zhen : heaRt FeeLing
52
SwaRovSki StyLe
FaShion newS
32
a guide to acHieving tHe goddess looK
FaShionheadline
watCh Story 60 the new cLaSSic
watCh newS 64 montBLanc moRe than juSt BLack and white
66 BuLgaRi BReeZed thRough eLegance
68 691,200 PaneRai 691,200 SecondS non-StoP
runway 72 dRieS van noten : FamiLy and tRiBe
FaShion talk 74 thom BRowne : the odd one
ContentS
happy diamonds
2015/171 - Sing Tao Elite Gen / LOro - 187FBB7 - 9 x 11,75 = 228,6 x 298,45 mm - Canada - 24/02/15
Vaughan mills 905-660-9993 markville mall 905-477-1273www.loro.ca
106elite liFe
Cheval BlanC in St. BartS :
an lvMh luxury reSort
102JuSt For Fun
Private islands at a Bargain
94taSte
taPaStoRonto LoveS SPain - taPaS cuLtuRe
OCT
11
ContentS
All prices are in CAD unless otherwise specified.
MakeuP 78 autumn-winteR tRend
Beauty newS 82 SuPeRStaRt Skin RenewaL BooSteR BooSt youR SkinS natuRaL deFenceS & aBiLity to Renew, now!
83 eSte LaudeR new dimenSion tRanSFoRmative coLLection
living 86 homecaBLe SyStem wine ceLLaR
elite ChoiCe 90 vancouveR LoveS PaRiS
wine not 100 cognac thRough the eyeS oF aRt
elite Car 112 meRcedeS-BenZ cLS 400 ShowS how Sexy a FouR-dooR Sedan can Be
hi-teCh 116 Sonya7R ii the kittieS aRe woRth it
Petite Heure Minute PaillonneJ00503325718KGrand Feu 18K68jaquet-droz.com
Sherway Gardens25 The West Mall, Etobicoke416-622-9400 - www.loro.ca
JD_COOP_PHM_PAILLONS_EliteGen_OCT2015_USA.indd 1 24.09.2015 16:24:01
Miu Miu Madras printed textured-leather top handle bag
$TBD
Gucci Amstel leather clogs
$980 (italist.com)
Gucci Amstel studded goat-fur clog
$1,202 (neimanmarcus.com)
Fashion News
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RetRo LoveR
vintageearth tone
It seems some designers are deeply
enamoured with the retro style. From faux-
vintage leather bags, to earth-tone clogs, to
super-hot bell-bottoms, the retro style has
come back with a huge bang.
text | AnchoRphoto | Killy
HSW_9x11.75_LOroCupido.indd 1 2015-09-24 7:50 PM
BRANDON Booties US$ 1,125.00
TUXEDO Sandals US$ 1,295.00
SECRET Booties US$ 1,050.00
CLERKS Pumps US$ 825.00 SECRET Pumps US$ 725.00
Available at sergiorossi.com\ca
DALLAS Pumps US$ 650.00
CLERKS Loafers US$ 675.00TUXEDO Flat Sandal US$ 795.00
SECRET Boots US$ 1,850.00
Sergio RossiBianca Brandolini d'AddaBiancamodernmetalliclace up
Sergio Rossi collaborates with his muse, Bianca Brandolini
dAdda, and imbues into its Autumn-Winter collection Italian womens
individualities and charm, in a naturally elegant style thats all Biana.
Modern details can be seen in the classic feminine silhouette. The colour
palette is mainly dark grey and deep red, married with shiny elements to
make the style pop. On the other hand, the contrast of black and white,
and the use of metallic leather, accentuate the tough and mysterious side
of women. The lace-up design, applied in short boots, heels or above-
knee boots, shows off feminine charm to the fullest.
Bianca Brandolini dAddalace up
The brands muse, Bianca Brandolini dAdda, seduces with feminine charm in the various lace-up designs in the Autumn-Winter advertising campaign.
Fashion News
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text | Michelle Chow
Sergio roSSi Feminine charm
(Janice Man)
MMA
Black Widow()
Janice Man
tough
Janice Man
Janice Mantrain up musclesboxing
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Cover Story
Lela Rose double V dress $2,498.94 (shopbop.com)Kenneth Jay Lane white earrings Dannijo choker Jimmy Choo lemon yellow leather pointed toe pumps $1,006.02 (profilefashion.com)
Readers who have seen the movie Helios may
find the plot a bit lacking in suspense. They may
also think that Nick and Jacky Cheung worked a
bit too hard trying to upstage one another. But all
would agree they demonstrated some amazing
martial arts skills.
Yet, who would have thought that a movie
featuring the top seven male screen idols from
China, Hong Kong, Taiwan and Korea would be
highlighted by a Hong Kong lady as the female
lead? Her use of the classic MMA move -- the
scissor takedown to leglock the macho Nicky
Cheung -- and her other aggressive moves
reminiscent of the Black Widow in Marvel:
Avengers Alliance.
From the sad and weak girl in Nightfall, to the
vicious killer in Helios, Janice Man has successfully
shattered some significant stereotypes.
Helios really opened up a new theatrical
direction for me, says the 26-year-old model-
turned-actress. The role is tough, like me. I am
not at all weak with respect to my career. I am
not afraid to work, regardless of how hard it is. I
also acknowledge that I am very ambitious.
To be popular and successful is, of course, every
actresss dream, but how many are bold enough
to voice their dreams? Man is one such brave
soul. She has always demonstrated clear goals
and the determination never to call it quits.
It is so gratifying to see a dreamy teenage girl
from years past boldly step forward and realize
her dreams, utilizing her inner strength and not
needing to depend on any man!
Shooting a gun without batting an eyelid
Even when presented with good opportunities, many people
are unable to grab hold of them. Instead, they watch them slip
through their fingers. Not Janice Man.
As soon as she received the Helios script, she went into boot-
camp mode for six months. She kept training herself to believe that
there is no such thing as the best, but rather to do better every
day.
I follow a strict menu for all three meals each day to build up
my muscles, she says. Every morning, I run eight kilometres as
soon as I wake up to build endurance. Every day, I spend three to
four hours boxing, stretching and kicking to build a high level of
flexibility.
I needed to use my legs for locking a great deal. This role did
not have many lines, but was full of action. Even though I had a
stunt double, there were many risky scenes in which the face is
shown. I always request to do those myself.
Janice Man
Hong Kong BlacK WidoWtext | styling | KandycandyCphoto | Mr Chomakeup | Vinci TsangVW Makeup hair | Matt ChiuXenter
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AKfor
... ...12Janice ManEQ
As a killer, the gun is the weapon of choice, so Man had to train hard
to hone her shooting skills.
I remember the first time I went to practise at a shooting practice
room. It was a closed room. Every shot produced a loud explosive sound.
Even though I wore ear plugs, my ear drums still hurt. I was a bit afraid of
the gun in the beginning, but I knew I had to overcome the fear.
She practised two or three times a week, burning through money,
firing shot after shot.
The director asked her to use an AK-type heavy machine gun.
You know, carrying two cannons and going pop, pop. I thought I
couldnt handle it, so we switched to a pair of pikes, which are lighter in
comparison. For a delicate girl, I thought the pikes were rather cool.
Saving oneself with white flower oil
Even cooler was that Nick Cheung, the lead from Unbeatable, was
pounded by her superior martial-arts skills.
At first, the director said I was to have fight scenes with Nicky. I was
quite afraid. Nicky has quite a reputation as an action actor. How was I
to be his match? But Nicky was super-protective of me. He was instead
worried about hurting me, and told me not to hold back in my holds and
punches. Haha
After 12 years in the business, Man finally got this antagonist role and
the chance for audiences to view her differently. It is certainly true that
actors are often passively influenced by their circumstances.
I couldnt be too impatient, she says. I dont believe that you should
take every role. Yes, you can build your acting skills that way, but I would
rather choose to be in a TV series. That way, you work 15 hours a day,
and you learn everything quickly. Your EQ improves quickly.
COVER STORY
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Sweater in bonded light bi-colored viscose US$640 Miniskirt in bonded light bi-colored viscose US$590 Both from marni.comJimmy Choo python pumps Fierce gold necklace Gold ring Both from Giuseppe Zanotti Ela Stone gem stones ring
From October 2014 to June 2015, Man was filming the period piece The
Legend of Zu in China. She says this was the most challenging experience of her
career.
Even in the heat of over 30 degrees Celsius, you are all wrapped up in these
ancient costumes. Every day I had to memorize 10 pages of Mandarin lines.
Then I was flying around on cables doing fight scenes, too. Once I experienced
heatstroke, yet continued to do the scenes with the help of putting white flower
oil on me. At that moment, I thought, If I survive this trial, I can do anything. In
contrast, working on movies is much more comfortable than working on TV series.
Many Hong Kong stars bring their own assistants when they work in China,
people who know their habits. However, Man insists on using local assistants, who
are familiar with local customs. She can also practise Mandarin at the same time.
She may seem delicate in appearance, but in terms of work, shes tougher than
nails.
Quality, not quantity: reputation more important
Man parted ways with Leon Lai (one of Hong Kongs Four Cantopop Heavenly
Kings) to form her own company a year ago. Suddenly, she was her own boss,
complete with many new responsibilities.
It was a very solid, very intense year. But it was a happy busy. Before,
someone else was managing, so I didnt have to bother with much. Now I need to
take care of many things, such as choosing a script, negotiating with directors, etc.
If I see something wrong with the plot, I bring it up proactively myself.
No one else knows my current condition better than myself. If I were an artist
working for a company, I might be working non-stop, show after show, just to make
money. But its different now. If I feel that I need time to refresh, I can call stop. Ive
been turning down some jobs in China. Of course, my team relies on me for their
compensation, but I am confident that I wont make the boss (Sun Entertainment
Culture Limited) lose money.
Man understands that if you keep working on shows without regard to quality,
you risk ruining your own reputation.
The market in China is different from Hong Kong. You can try different things
you havent tried before. It is not about how much you make. I want to see how I
can make my own career in a place that isnt my own.
Many people are happy to stay in their comfort zone, because they do not have
the courage to change. Janice Man is not one of them.
10 6Janice Man
Janice Man
Janice Manmanagementturbointensemanage
artistsrefreshjob
Janice Man
comfort zone
COVER STORY
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V neck topStripe printed wool flannel pants $675 (luisaviaroma.com)Both from SportsmaxBalenciaga silver-tone earrings US$465 (net-a-porter.com)Dannijo gem stone bangle
COVER STORY
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Balenciaga metal grommet front colourblock crepe dress Marni grey open finger mittensGiuseppe Zanotti crystal-studded jagged suede mule sandals $2,567.65 (neimanmarcus.com)Ela Stone gold necklaceCye Designs gem stone ring
Official dealer of:
Rolex
Piaget
Vacheron Constantin
Breguet
Audemars Piguet
Roger Dubuis
Franck Muller
Harry Winston
Blancpain
Girard-Perregaux
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Hublot
IWC
Backes & Strauss
Chopard
Omega
Tudor
Pomellato
Ippolita
Get lost in the colours of fall
10519-RdeV_Fall_RdeV_091812_J_elitegen_9x11.75
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Dress Code
see-throughIt is not easy to abandon a familiar look, just like the usually elegant Weisz wearing this half see-through maxi with flora patterns all over. Although the look lacks sexiness, the overall feel is refreshing and definitely commendable.
DressValentino ShoesJimmy Choo
Buzz from the net: The simple hairstyle makes the overall look
even more appealing. (fabsugar.com)
At first glance, this tailored black maxi looks unremarkable, but there is actually more to it. The dress is made from a fabric that combines velvet, crepe and leather - full of texture. But the style is too simple, and does not make a strong first impression.
DressLouis Vuitton
Buzz from the net: Since this is already custom-made, why cant it be made
even brighter? (style.com)
RaChel Weisz
aliCia VikanDeR
Textural Details Outside the Box
Celia Wong
Celiahttp://www.celiawong.com
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TiFF 2015 Fashion shoWtext | photo | Reuters
looksharpcarryThis neutral look from Naomi Watts steals the limelight! Her pink suit with bright red is sharp and vivacious. For Watts, to carry this look is very impressive not looking at all like a 46-year-old pretending to be young.
SuitVionnet ShoesJimmy Choo
Buzz from the net: She pulls this off as well, or better, than the average
young girl. (coolspotters.com)
No one would expect the demure Fanning to wear a fiery red maxi-dress, sporting a semi-mature look to a film premiere. The dresss unique design has a three-dimensional feel, such that even though Fannings career has not been outstanding, the look stands out sharply.
DressGucci
Buzz from the net: There is still a strong youthful feel to her look.
(actresshot.com)
naomi WaTTs
elle Fanning
Semi-Mature Red Energizing Look
Celia Wong
Famous designer Celia Wong has been image designer for many celebrities, including Kelly Chan, Kay Tse, Eric Suen and Elanne Kang, and has also been a designer of many album covers and image director of numerous concerts.
Wong has written books offering tips about clothing and beauty. In recent years, she has focused on coaching individual clients on image and beauty, and even started her own blog (http://www.celiawong.com) to share fashion trends and beauty tips.
TIFF 2015 Gallery
photo | EastweekXinhua News Agency
Mountains May Depart made its debut at the festival. Director Jia Zhangke (right) was in attendance to publicize the film, along with actors Zhao Tao, Sylvia Chang and Zhang Yi (from second person on the right).
S a n d r a B u l l o c k B r y a n RandallOur Brand IsCrisisOscar-winning actress Sandra Bullocks photographer friend Bryan Randall has incurred bad publicity as a result of his past drug record and his abandoning of his wife. But Bullock seemed oblivious to the gossip and was in the best of moods as she publicized Our Brand is Crisis.
Wearing the producers hat to the festival, George Clooneys charm still rivalled other actors. Many fans lined both sides of the street to welcome him, indicating that he still enjoys red-hot popularity.
Actress Esther Wang and actor Zhang Yi attended the premiere of The Promised Land at the Toronto International Film Festival.
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Tiff 2015
Eye in the SkyHelen MirrenAnother Oscar-winning actress, Helen Mirren, came to the festival with her latest work, Eye in the Sky, looking elegant as usual.
Natalie PortmanLanvinA Tale Of Love And DarknessNatalie Portman, another award-winning actress, also took the elegant route. Wearing a luxurious Lanvin evening gown, she brought much attention to her first work as a director in A Tale of Love and Darkness.
DemolitionJake GyllenhaalAnother star in Demolition is the stylish Jake Gyllenhaal. He has had many new works of late and so has appeared frequently in public.
Emily BluntSicarioJohn KrasinskiEmily Blunt (right) starred in Sicario, which debuted with a bang at the festival. Supportive husband John Krasinski was, of course, at her side.
BalmainNaomi Watts DemolitionWearing a tight-fitting Balmain maxi-dress, Naomi Watts appeared to be rather relaxed at the premiere of Demolition.
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Tiff 2015
The MartianMatt DamonSci-Fi movie The Martian was one of the more high-profile films at the festival. Lead actor Matt Damon attended a media conference, where he mischievously demonstrated the moon walk on Mars, to an audience roaring with laughter.
Luciana BarrosoHe was accompanied by his sexily dressed wife, Lucian Barroso.
Kate Mara4
Although Kate Maras Fantastic Four enjoyed neither box office success nor popular acclaim, she was in good spirits as the attended the premiere of The Martian.
Jessica ChastainThe graceful Jessica Chastain was all dressed up, but remained personable. She even took the initiative, posing for selfies with fans.
Patrick StewartPatrick Stewart, who gained notoriety by starring in Star Trek: The Next Generation, enjoyed the adoration of the younger members of the audience.
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Julie Delpy
LoloDespite an injured her right foot, actress-director Julie Delpy was enthusiastic when she appeared at the festival to publicize her film Lolo.
Salma HayekGucciMexican actress Salma Hayeks bright red Gucci dress looked simple, but cleverly showed off her beautiful cleavage much to the delight of males in the audience.
Dakota JohnsonAlexander McQueenAlso present was the ever-popular Dakota Johnson, who wore a floral dress by Alexander McQueen that showed off her willowy waist in a sexy, but low-key way.
K a t e W i n s l e t B a d g l e y MischkaThe Dressmaker Oscar-winning actress Kate Winslet wore a grey Badgley Mischka evening gown to attend the premiere of The Dressmaker, showing off her elegant charm.
Amber HeardVictoria BeckhamJohnny DeppBlack MassAmber Heard (right) stole the limelight wearing an all-black dress by Victoria Beckham to support husband Johnny Depps new work Black Mass.
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Tiff 2015
designandtechnology.
panera i .com
radiomir 19403 days automatic(ref. 572)
Fashion Headline
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text | Lucas Tang
Dolce & Gabbana
suede Mary Jane embellished-heel pumps $1,345 (saksfifthavenue.com)
Louis Vuitton
Nano Alma $1,160 (louisvuitton.com)
Anteprima
black and yellow floral print top $TBD
Alice+Olivia
demetria lantern dress US$440 (aliceandolivia.com)
Dolce & Gabbana
floral macrame tunic dress US$3,600 (dolcegabbana.com)
Marimekko
Laila skirt US$195 (merimekko.com)(US only)
Lanvin
heart pendant necklace $2,290 (available at Holt Renfrew)
M Missoni
floral print coat $1,686 (farfetch.com)
Missoni
intarsia wool-blend cape US$2,710 (net-a-porter.com)
Bingbing Fan: The Retro Goddess
best dress listbold print
On the red carpet, Bingbing Fan is peerless. Her
unrivalled look has landed her on the Best Dressed
lists of numerous foreign media. Bingbing is an
expert in the retro look. Whether it is a bold print
umbrella dress, bright red lipstick, curly hair parted
on the side, or a grand evening gown matched with
an elegant shawl, Bingbing looks like a queen -- both
on and off the screen.
Goddess LookA Guide to AchievinG the
A floral dress matched with suede heels gives an extra measure of elegance to the look.
Everyone knows that the best way to wear a jacket is to drape it over the shoulders!
cape dressEvery time Bingbing appears on the red carpet at the Cannes Festival, she immediately becomes the focal point. This luxurious cape dress is a perfect example.
Her recent positive romantic life added a touch of sweetness to her look.
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A goddess not only needs to have a pretty face, but she also has to
have stylish and appropriate clothing to truly shine. For this issue, weve
picked seven Chinese and non-Chinese goddesses and have analyzed
their unique styles and tastes to show how goddesses are created.
Maje
Maje jolane guipure lace skirt US$480 (net-a-porter.com)
Kurt Geiger
Bond blue high heels $330.76 (kurtgeiger.com)
Rupert Sanderson
ankle strap sandals-mikie fur high heel $1,103.89 (bloomingdales.com)
Bulgari
Serpenti forever leather shoulder bag $TBD
Shu Qi: Sexy Trilogy
cut-out
The allure of Shu Qi lies in the fact that her sexiness is always just
right. There is always one point of emphasis. Whether it is the see-
through look, the cut-out, or her bare shoulders, she is always able to
express her extreme femininity.
stilettos
This floral dress has a layer of lace decorating the waist, emphasizing her trim waistline.
In addition to her long legs and cleavage, Shi Qis collarbone is another area of attraction.
The cut-out lace dress is paired with a sweater and collar tie to give a youthful look.
Shu Qi likes to use a simple pair of stillettos to lengthen her lines.
Adam Lippes
cropped pleated satin-twill top US$890 (net-a-porter.com)
Fausto Puglisi
sleeveless cut out dress $1,806.06 (farfetch.com)
Stella McCartney
cutout two-tone stretch-crepe gown US$3,835 (net-a-porter.com)
Etro
floral-print slit-keyhole pleated gown $6,218.91 (neimanmarcus.com)
Harve
Leger sleevelss V-Neck peplum dress $1,930.07 (nordstrom.com)
Fashion Headline
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JumpsuitReplacing an evening dress with a jumpsuit gains style without losing gravitas.
Saint Laurent80Saint Laurents Red Lips dress, matched with a greasy short hairstyle, is reminiscent of 1980s playfulness.
bikerLun-mei enjoys biker leather jackets, because they are versatile and go with everything.
Louis Vuittonmodern touchLouis Vuittons Bohemian style, together with a short leather boot, gives a modern touch to the look.
Saint Laurent
boots $1,195 (available at Holt Renfrew)
Isabel Marant
forange floral dress $TBD
Vivienne Westwood
sleeveless top with print $TBD
Acne Studios
mock red wine biker jacket $1,800 (acnestudios.com)
Celine
small trotteur bag in indigo grained calfskin $1,879.34 (contact celine.com)
Karen Walker
The Harvest sunglasses $373.86 (shopbop.com)
Valentino
suede fringe skirt $5,405 (stylebop.com)
Kenzo
embroidered tiger cotton sweatshirt $451.28 (nordstrom.com)
Elie Saab
sleeveless peplum-waist jumpsuit, black $4,544.32 (neimanmarcus.com)
Kwai Lun-Mei: The French Connection
Parisian chicLouis VuittonMaison MargielaSaint Laurentrock
Kwai Lun-Mei studied in Paris, majoring in French, so its not
surprising that Paris occupies a special place in her heart and
her manner of dress. She enjoys French labels, such as Louis
Vuitton, Maison Margiela and Yves Saint Laurent. Her style is a
bit rebellious-rock, independent and indelible.
Fashion Headline
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Jun Ji-Hyun: The Sharp-Looking Goddess
40sophisticated
Jun Ji-Hyun is blessed with super-long legs forty and a half inches
to be precise, -- and she is well aware of their powerful attraction.
When she appears at public functions, she loves to wear knee-length
dresses and skirts. Her polished dress styles, matched with high heels
and handsome suit jackets, transform her look from a wild girl to a
sophisticated urban professional. The look is full of star power from
inside out.
Zadig & Voltaire
blazer with wool $685 (stylebop.com)
Hache
grey wool dress $TBD
Chloe
sleeveless dress $2,331 (farfetch.com)
Hotel Particulier
black dress $TBD
Sergio Rossi
Suede lace-up back pumps $1,007.53 (saksfifthavenue.com)
Proenza Schouler
oxblood Kent bag US$2,150 (proenzaschouler.com)
Maje
blue skirt $TBD
Tory Burch
cotton sleeveless dress US$395 (toryburch.com)
cardigan look
skiny jeans
Body-conscious
A long dress jacket adds a handsome look to the white dress.
Adding a cardigan to a stiff umbrella dress results in a cute secretary look.
Miss Long Legs pairs skinny jeans with a windbreaker and still looks perfectly proportioned.
This body-conscious, long-sleeve dress is tight-fitting and short, but shows no skin while being ultra-sexy.
Tiffany Victoria
mixed cluster drop earrings $53,000 (tiffany.ca)
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Kiko Mizuhara: Japanese Texture
24Kiko55DiorChanelhigh fashionKikoyoung and modern
Japanese model Kiko Mizuhara is only five-foot-five tall, but is
the favourite of every major brand. The 24-year-old casually shows
her youthful attitude while wearing high-fashion labels, such as Dior
and Chanel. Her active image is adorable. Kiko frequently mixes
interesting textures knits, denim, tassels, etc. to create young
and modern layers.
Sophia Webster
coco share a coco cola patent leather heels $727.03 (fwrd.com)
SandroReebok
silver runners $TBD
Mulberry by Cara Delevingne
bag steel blue quilted nappa $1,590
Mes Desmoiselles
grey fringe top $TBD
Pushbutton
pink ruffle skirt $TBD
DKNY
patchwork embellished dress $675 (dkny.com)
Moschino
intarsia teddy bear sweater $725.16 (farfetch.com)
Coohem
multicolour jacket $TBD
DiorKiko
KikoChanel
denim look
Wearing a knit shirt as a dress, and adding a backpack, Kiko shows off her youthful energy.
This fiery Dior red dress becomes mischievous and fun on Kiko.
Kiko appeared at Chanels recent shows.
Sometimes you can go with a lower-key look. This denim look, paired with a suit jacket, works amazingly well.
Odd
cropped shirt $716.08 (farfetch.com)
Fashion Headline
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VionnetThe combination, using nude
colour all over, is refreshing and out of this world.
She wore this pale yellow Vionnet maxi-dress for a film opening. Its simple, yet powerful.
Met GalaBurberryOld Hollywood
At the Met Gala, Tang Wei wore a white Burberry evening gown and looked like an Old Hollywood star.
Even in a simple white dress, Tang Wei shows that she is a true star.
Tang Wei: The Intellectual Romantic
typical
Although Tang Wei does not have the typical pretty-girl look, her
beauty lies in her style and sensibility. How she dresses and spruces up
her look is worth admiring. She seems to like the romantic style best,
using flowing chiffon, lace, prints and soft colours. The look is natural
and authentic, just like in the commercial when she took off thick
makeup to reveal her true self.
Ports 1961
lace sleeveless top $TBD
Valentino
black and white sandals $TBD
Sara Battaglia
fringed polka dot clutch $1,594.57 (farfetch.com)
Charlotte Olympia
Vaninas Profile clutch US$1,195 (charlotteolympia.com)
Blugirl
embroidered techno tulle dress $1,242 (luisaviaroma.com)
Tibi
windowpane jacquard skirt US$689 (bysymphony.com)
Diane von Furstenberg
Ivy floral brocade dress $692.07 (nordstrom.com)
Burberry
floral print Italian lace shift dress $3,495 (burberry.com)
Vionnet
double breasted coat $4,287.89 (farfetch.com)
Fashion Headline
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Emma Watson Emma Watson: The Ever-Maturing Lady
Emma WatsonEmmasmoking suitsuit pant
From popular child star, to Ivy League graduate, to United
Nations goodwill ambassador, Emma Watson is a classic
example of beauty -- inside and outside. As she has matured,
she has become fond of stylish smoking suits. She also uses
suit pants under maxi-dresses to create a unique layered
look. Her matter-of-fact attitude makes this all enjoyable and
attractive.
E m m a sweatercasual look
Tuxedo
Pairing a backless red dress with suit pants instantly creates a stylish look.
This short white dress, together with nude-coloured pumps, gives off some powerful youthful energy.
A short-haired Emma Watson, with a checkered short and loose-fitting sweater, results in a whimsically stylish, casual look.
Tuxedo with red lips makes for an alluring look.
The Row
Boro blazer $6,060.61 (farfetch.com)
Roger Vivier
belle vivier trompette pumps in leather US$850 (rogervivier.com)(US only)
Chloe
wide leg trousers $1,183.46 (farfetch.com)
Tom Ford
crepe tuxedo trousers $1,667.35 (mytheresa.com)
Christian Louboutin
J String US$945 (christianlouboutin.com)
Kotur
deco embossed gold-tone box clutch US$495 (net-a-porter.com)
Theory
pants $340 (available at Holt Renfrew)
Stella McCartiney
cropped trousers $1,084.29 (farfetch.jpg)
Saint Laurent
satin-lapel single-breasted blazer $3,300 (matchsfashion.com)
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ClineBrass Wonderland Crystal Blackberry Earrings $TBDGold Wonderland Raspberry Earrings $TBDGold Wonderland Daisy Necklace $TBD
ClineMany have commented on how Cline is showing more sentimentality this season. The brands clothes are full of fairy tale animal prints. Even the accessory collection is full of earrings and necklaces displaying strawberries, blueberries and daisies. The entire series has a Wizard of Oz feel to it, and is uncharacteristically whimsical for Cline.
ChanelWhite Double Plate Clutch $TBD
clutchChanelBrasserie GabrielleKarl LagerfeldFrom a distance, it looks like a plate, but on closer look, you realize its actually a clutch! This Fall-Winter season, Chanel uses the French Caf Brasserie Gabrielle as the theme of its collection. Each model role-plays a stylish waitress, so of course their hands are full of plates. Making a plate also function as a bag, Karl Lagerfeld displays his signature sense of humour.
Elite Picks
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BEst Pickstext | Lisaphoto | Kauzrambler
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FendiBag Bug Backpack Keyring $1,100 (ssense.com)
bag bugSince Fendi introduced its bag bugs, the brands accessories have become increasingly popular. This time, Fendi is adding bag bugs to the mini-backpack. As a change purse, the bag bug is both adorable and practical.
Mykita x Damir DomaBradfield Grey-Grey Sunglasses $ 756 (farfetch.com)
clip onMykitaDamir DomaThese sunglasses are reminiscent of the hot 80s clip-on style. M uses a super-lightweight material, combined with Damir Momas ultra-simple style, to present this stylish creation.
HermsBlue Silk Bow Tie with Print US$155 (US only, hermes.com)
This is a bow tie thats actually intended for women. The pure-silk tie is resplendent with a romantic display of flying butteries. In reality, it can be worn by both men and women.
AesopTacit Eau De ParfumUS$135 (aesoponline.com)
Australian botanical brand Aesop will launch Tacit, a new fragrance inspired by traditional Eau de Cologne and the aromas of the Mediterranean. Tacit was developed by perfumer Cline Barel. Notes include citrus, basil and vetiver.
LoeweNavy V Clutch $3,540 (polyvore.com)
LoeweThe female shopper looks at both style and substance when shopping for handbags. This bag from Loewe features two shoulder straps that are both decorative and allow for it to be worn in two different ways -- a great example of combining style with substance.
PS by Paul SmithWhite Shirt With Print $235 (mrporter.com)
Sir Paul SmithprintMen have Sir Paul Smith to thank for new print shirts every season that are brightly and delicately coloured. This season, he offers this smudged print, adding a bit of fun to the career wardrobe.
Furla sunglasses
Gucci llosanga wool jacquard coat $6,054 (gucci.com)
Prada black shirt
Gold choker
Mixed colour top
Both from Carven
text | KandycandyCphoto | Simpson Chiumodel | Maria SoginaSun Eseemakeup | Angel Mokhair | Nasaki ChuQueens Private i
Drawing inspiration from the best of the past, fashion
designers are mixing retro touches like colourful
patterns, sleek silhouettes, bell bottoms and brown-
coloured shades to create the latest looks.
RetRo Lasts FoReveR
showcase
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Wool jacket with brooch $2,930
Blooms print silk button-down shirt $1,465
Charmeuse pleated skirt $1,025
Leather slipper $1,040
Ring with Swarovski crystal and glass pearls $915
All from gucci.com
Fula sunglasses
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Olive and beige long dress US$2,145 (emiliopucci.com)
Dark purple belt
Both from Emilio Pucci
Furla sunglasses
Anteprima grey choker
Ring with Swarovski crystal $360
Ring with velvet and Swarovski crystal $410
Both from gucci.com
Showcase
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Green and grey plaid jacket
Black short sleeves shirt
Baby blue short sleeves sweater
Baby blue gloves
Green plaid pants
Mary Jane shoes $790 (available at Holt Renfrew)
Green hair piece
White crystal hair piece
All from Prada
Edwin leather watch
Showcase
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Baby blue floral print shirt
Baby blue floral print skirt $413 (luisaviaroma.com)
Both from Blurmarine
Anteprima yellow earrings
Prada pink Saffiano handbag
Furla sunglasses
Gucci lion head ring with Swarovski crystal and glass pearls $560 (gucci.com)
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Printed crepe mini dress US$2,530 (net-a-porter.com)
Yellow crystal earrings
Both from Miu Miu
Anteprima black clutch bag
Furla sunglasses
Showcase
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SWAR
OVS
KI A
G
Miranda Kerr
SWAR
OVS
KI.C
OM
Collection from $69
Fashion News
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Miranda Kerricon
Miranda
Swarovski
Nathalie Colin
text | Chappie
Indisputable style icon Miranda Kerr
captures imagination, not only with her
glamourous face and devilish shape,
but also with her colourful lifestyle.
The epitome of confidence in the way
she carries herself, Kerr partners with
Swarovski creative director Nathalie Colin
to create Autumn/Winter looks for work,
holidays and dating. Layered bangles,
watches and bracelets set off a chain-link
necklace to underscore the independent
and go-get-it spirit of contemporary
metropolitan women.
SwarovSkiStyle
SwarovSki
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01 little black dress
Gem necklace set off by understated wristbands add sparkle and sophistication to the LBD look.
02 chunkylook
Chunky trinkets add character to the all-white office look.
03 SwarovskiMiranda KerrInez & Vinoodh
Miranda Kerr is invited by Swarovski to work again with celebrated style photography duo Inez & Vinoodh to repeat the previous seasons success in this Autumn/Winter campaign.
trench coatLight trench coat accentuated by gold jewelry gives a hint of femininity in this day-off look.
Swarovski Octea Dressy White Watch $399
01 02
03
Van Cleef & ArpelsPerle
1948
The Perle collection embodies Van Cleef &
Arpels savoir-faire, refined in the maisons
workshops for over a hundred years. The
handcrafted gold beads formed into a ring
or lined along the borders, has become a
brand classic. Recently, the collection has
been refreshed with embedded diamonds
and gemstones, expressing ones elegant and
impeccable taste.
()(All prices estimated)(, Top to bottom)
Perle SignaturePerle Signature bracelet, white gold. $9,250
PerlePerle lucky clover diamond bracelet, pink gold. $37,000
PerlePerle bracelet with diamond, white gold. $59,100
Perle SignaturePerle Signature bracelet, pink gold. $8,550
PerlePerle lucky clover diamond bracelet, pink gold. $37,000
PerlePerle bracelet with diamond, pink gold. $58,600
Perle SignaturePerle Signature bracelet, pink gold. $8,550
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Jewelry
text | Chappiephoto | Simpson
Van Cleef & arpels
A PArisiAn signAture
(, Left to right)
Perle Perle Couleurs ring with malachite, yellow gold. $3,250
Perle Couleurs Perle Couleurs ring with onyx, yellow gold. $2,700
Perle Couleurs Perle Couleurs ring with turquoise, white gold. $4,000
Perle Couleurs Perle Couleurs ring with carnelian, pink gold. $2,900
Perle CouleursPerle Couleurs ring with Tiger's Eye, yellow gold. $2,900
(, Left to right)
PerlePerle hoop earrings with diamonds,o pink gold. $25,000
PerlePerle lucky clover ring with diamonds. $19,500
Perle SignaturePerle Signature ring, pink gold. $2,800
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Heart feelingZhang Zhen
text | Irisphoto | Devilmakeup | @hair | Betty@Flux
interview
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Taiwanese filmmaker Hou Xiao-yin
was named Best Director at the
2015 Cannes Film Festival for his
latest work, The Assassin.
Based on Tang dynasty legend Nie
Yin Niang, the movie is Hous first
martial-arts flick. Those who have
seen it invariably marvel at the
breathtaking beauty of each shot.
Every frame is like a painting. The
storyline, however, is deemed by
some as illusive and impenetrable as
the storys heroine.
Hous reaction? See it a few more
times if you dont get it the first
time!
This is typical of him, and he is the
same way with actors during filming.
After one take, he will do it again
if he feels its not right. But he
will never tell you what isnt right,
quipped Zhang Zhen. We can only
keep guessing.
Thats why we say Hou is true to
himself. If you want to understand
him or his work, you have to feel it
with your heart.
2005
rollcut
2003
Zhang Zhens character is brutal and hard-headed, a contrast to another actor Satoshi Tsumabuki, a sunny and youthful mirror polisher who gives Nie Yin Niang a way out.
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Chinas ancient Ant Man?
Tang legend Nie Yin Niang is really a fantasy story. Nie, the
daughter of a man who worked for General Tian Jian based in Hebeis
Weibo in the Tang dynasty, was kidnapped by a Taoist nun at age 10
and trained to be an assassin before she was sent home. There are
plots in which Nie turns into a mosquito (Chinas version of Ant Man
perhaps?) or gives people magic potions as remedies.
When Hou gave me the original story to read, he didnt say how
he would change it, Xhang recalled. I thought he was going to do a
sci-fi story.
The duo was reunited for the first time since doing Three Times in
2005.
In the end, Hous version of Niez is rather down to earth she
doesnt transform from small to large size, though she can zip around
flying, in kind of a realistic way.
There were a fair bit of fighting scenes, Zhang said. Most of
them were rehearsed in the morning of the day of filming, and then we
kept fighting throughout the afternoon. He would make the smallest
corrections to the moves. It was hard work.
The storyline has been modified. General Tian (Zhang) is the cousin
of Nie (Shu Qi). They are betrothed to each other, but Tian marries
Lady Yuan (Zhou Yun) instead, in order to expand his power base. Nie
runs away to the mountains to train as an assassin with a Taoist nun.
When her training is completed, the very person the nun orders her to
kill is her former beau and cousin, Tian.
Just keep acting
The story of The Assassin reads a bit like a tale of love and
anguish in a royal court, reminiscent of Curse of the Golden Flower or
Empress Wu. Yet in Hous hands, the only thing that one can be sure
of is that there will be plenty of long shots.
When I worked with Hou for the first time 10 years ago on Three
Times, the script he gave us was like poems, Zhang said as Hou was
in another corner of the room for another interview. (We took a peek
to make sure Hou was focusing on the interview and didnt hear us.)
I couldnt get used to it. Its better this time. The script is more like a
script, but the way he directs is still the same -- very much like filming a
documentary.
The camera will be set up and begin to roll when we are getting
into our roles, and we will keep acting, not knowing when he will yell
Cut. LOL, we thought to ourselves, Is it done yet? Keep this to
yourself and dont let him hear this.
Zhang said Hou doesnt want actors to rehearse because he
wants an authentic feel. When actors get into positions, they do not
know what chemistry they will have with the other actors. This can
make even an experienced actor appear as green as normal people on
screen.
In A Rolling Record of the Filming of The Assassin, written by The
Assassins screenwriter Hsieh Hai-Meng, Zhang is said to try using a
different way to interpret Tian. It looks like hard work for him, but such
endless exploration may be the kind of fun that helps an actor discover
his own possibilities.
The aftertaste of living
I worked for the first time with Hsieh Hsin-Ying who plays beloved
concubine Huji, said Zhang. We did many takes for one scene. When
we thought it was done, Hou asked us to film it again months later in a
different setting.
He didnt say what was wrong with it. Having said that, it is
interesting to try to build rapport with the fellow actor or even the
director in the process. For my role, he only gave me lots and lots of
old Tang dynasty books to read. He said the character Tian Jian is
explosive, and then he left me to ponder.
In addition to Three Times and The Assassin, Hou and Zhang
worked together on the 2003 movie Coffee Jikou. Zhang fondly
remembers the closing shot of a railway junction near the river with
trains crisscrossing. Zhang thinks the shot is full of life force.
In the end, another train goes in. Its a really beautiful shot, and it
leaves a certain inexplicable aftertaste. This is what life is about.
That leads to the question: how will we savour Zhang Zhen years
later?
Zhang Zhen and concubine Huji (Hsieh Hsin-Ying) reshoot one scene, in which Zhang is furious when he finds out Nie is the assassin. The two have no dialogue in the shot, which lasts one to two minutes. Its a real test of the actors body language and rapport.
9Shu Qi has only nine lines in the entire movie, and is in search of herself her whole life: her own place and value in the world, and with her other half. This is a rare shot of her out of the assassin costumes, in a breathtaking landscape painting dress.
cut All characters in the movie seem repressed, bottling up a lot of grievances. There is a rare happy scene when Huji dances and General Tian Jian plays the drum. I only learned the drum for one month. The hardest part was we didnt know when Director Hou was going to call Cut, so I kept drumming away. Alas, much of the shot was cut.
Interview
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The NewClaSSiC
Cart ier
HermsVacheron Constantin IWC
text | Chappiephoto |
Blending classic concepts with new designs is the
formula that can best withstand the test of time.
This can be seen in the classic and luxurious new
creations of four leading brands Cartier, Herms,
Vacheron Constantin and IWC.
(Prices are estimates,
for references only)
All-round stars
TankSantos Balloon BleuCartier Cl de Cartier3
The rectangular Tank, square Santos
and round Balloon Bleu are some of
Cartiers best-selling classics. Cl de
Cartier joins this esteemed league
after a gap of several years. Integrating
the circular shape with architectural
aesthetics, the lines of this new creation
are simple and elegant, yet three-
dimensional. The newly designed crown
at three oclock is kind to those with
fashion nails, yet does not compromise
on mechanical style.
Cartier
18K white gold bracelet31mm, 18K white gold case with bracelet, both paved with brilliant diamonds, and manufacture self-winding movement, caliber 1847 MC.
Cl de Cartier $203,500
18K3118K1847 MC
18K pink gold bracelet40mm, 18K pink gold case with leather bracelet and manufacture self-winding movement, caliber 1847 MC.
Cl de Cartier $24,000
18K4018K 1847 MC
18K rose gold bracelet 35mm, rose gold case set with brilliant diamonds, a rose gold bracelet and manufacture self-winding movement.
Cl de Cartier $44,000
18K 3518K
watch Story
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Sophisticated beauty
HermsSlim d' HermsNantucket
Herms timepieces dazzle with
understated beauty, accentuated by the
brands signature leather straps. Subtle
sophistication is underscored in the new
collections, as seen in the Arabic numerals
set against a smooth, round shape in Slim
d Herms, and the anchor-chain link-
inspired case of the Nantucket collection.
Herms
18K pink gold18K pink gold case with black alligator strap and quartz movement.
Nutucker $15,000
18K18K
18K pink gold32mm, 18K pink gold case set with 70 diamonds, red alligator strap and quartz movement.
Slim d'Herms $26,500
18K3218K70
Black leather hand bag.
Sac Cherche Midi $TBD
Moon Phase Watch38 mm steel case with purple alligator strap. Mother of pearl finishing with 60 small diamonds on the bezel. Self-winding mechanical Movement.
Arceau Petite Lune $25,000
3860
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Individualistic collections
IWC Victor ia SecretAdriana LimaKarol ina KurkovaIWC
The mechanical prowess of IWCs
stylish creations appeals as much
to women as men. Victorias Secret
supermodels Adriana Lima and Karolina
Kurkova are prime examples of the
connection between the brand and
beautiful women. Its latest creations
denote an individualistic yuppy lifestyle,
characterized by the adventurous spirit
of flying high, diving deep or racing fast.
IWC
World Time45.4mm stainless steel case, with black crocodile strap and instant world time display through crown mechanism. The 24-hour ring is marked with 23 cities to denote time zones.
Portugieser Yacht Club $13,000
45.42423
Automatic40mm stainless steel case and bracelet, with automatic mechanism and 42 hours power reserve when fully wound. Indicators for hours, minutes, seconds and dates. The city ring is marked with 23 cities to mark time zones.
The Ingenieur $8,500
404223
Annual Calendar44.2mm stainless steel with black crocodile strap, automatic mechanism and seven days power reserve when fully wound. The annual calendar on the top of the dial displays month, week and date.
The Portugieser $28,000
44.27
Watch Story
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Vacheron Constantin 2601928Harmony
Vacheron Constantin marks its 260th anniversary this year
with the new Harmony collection, featuring seven designs in
cushion cases inspired by the brands very first timepiece in
1928. All seven designs for men and women are powered by the
brands own automatic mechanisms carrying the Hallmark of
Geneva. The clean-cut and easy-to-read dial underscores the
brands status as the premier brand for complicated watches.
Vacheron constantin
Chronograph42mm by 51.67 mm, 18K pink gold case, powered by the new 3300 automatic caliber, with small hour and minute sub-dials, and small second at 9 oclock, and monopusher chronograph, pulsometric scale and power reserve indicator.
Harmony $98,000
42.0051.9718K33009
Chronograph with diamonds37mm by 46.6mm, 18K pink gold case set with 1.2ct diamonds on the bezel, with 48 hours power reserve and high shock-proof 1142 caliber.
Harmony $91,500
37.0046.6018K1.20481142
Harmony Dual Time40mm by 49.28mm, 18K white gold, all new Vacheron Constantin automatic caliber and 40 hours power reserve.
Harmony $57,600
40.0049.2818K40
Dual Time small model37mm by 46.6mm, 18K white gold diamond case, with automatic caliber and 40 hours power reserve. Displays for hour, minute, second and time zone in day and night.
Harmony $66,000
37.0046.618K40
Collectible masterpieces
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text | Ringo
MontblancMontblancTimeWalkere-Strap
Meisterstuck Selection SfumatoPatron of ArtLuciano PavarottiSIHHTimeWalker Urban Speed e-StrapBaselTimeWalkere-StrapE-Strape-StrapBlack & White Weeks
Montblanc is a traditional manufacturer of
luxury writing instruments. However, in recent
years, Montblanc has launched a number of
products across multiple platforms, including
timepieces, leather goods and jewelry. The
talk of the town this year centres around their
TimeWalker Urban Speed e-Strap.
This season's focus on leather goods is the Meisterstuck
Selection Sfumato collection. For writing instruments, it's the
Luciano Pavarotti limited-edition collection from Patron des Art. For
timepieces, there is this year's new release SIHH and the long-
awaited TimeWalker Urban Speed e-Strap.
At Basel this year, we can see wearable technology creeping
into Swiss watches in various ways. One of the first is probably the
TimeWalker. E-Strap with an interchangeable strap and an integrated
technology device that offers an activity tracker, smart notifications,
remote controls and Find-Me functions.
Honestly, its usability is not exactly good. However, the real
significance of e-Strap is about old world meeting new technology,
and a brand's determination to be technologically relevant, adding
lucidity into monotone Black & White Weeks.
Montblancmore than just black and white
Watch news
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text | Ringophoto | Kauzrambler
BuLGARI OCTOBI-RETROGRADE
There are countless complicated watches and just as many jewelry watches. Bulgari stands out in integrating the two seamlessly. Its Octo Bi-retrograde powered by Retro GG7722 movement features jumping hour and retrogrades for minutes and date. Thats triple the complication. It is encased in a 43mm, 18K white gold case with the refined details of 110 facets and a dial paved with 450 brilliant diamonds of 17.21ct, making it a true work of art. (est. $822,500)
BulgariOcto Bi-retrogradRetro GG772243mm 18K45017.21Octo110est. $822,500
Watch News
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TOuRBILLONCHRONO RATTRAPANTE
BulgariDaniel Roth30est. $236,500
Bulgaris complicated watches have had a gentlemanly feel since making classic watchmaking powerhouse Daniel Roth one of its own years ago. Case in point is this gracious design characterized by a tourbillon on the top half, offset by the asymmetrically arranged hour and minute sub-dial on the bottom left and the 30-minute chronograph on bottom right. It also features two centre second hands one is a regular chronograph hand and the other a flyback (Rattrapante) hand. The black dial set against the pink gold case underscores its sophistication. (est. $236,500)
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text | Ringophoto | Kauzrambler
PANERAI691,200 seconds non-stop
691,200
873
ChopardL.U.C9BlancpainVilleret12Vacheron ConstantinPatrimony14Jaeguer LeCoultreMaster Grande Tradition15A. Lange & SohneLange 3131HublotMP-05 LaFerrari508make sense
The more common three-day power reserve
watches can be bothersome, for its sometimes hard
to remember whether it was wound yesterday, or
the day before. So, one tends to wind it daily, just to
be on the safe side.
Certainly, there are plenty of timepieces with
even longer power reserves Chopards L.U.C
claims nine days, Blancpains Villeret has 12 days,
Vacheron Constantins Patrimony offers 14 days,
Jaeger LeCoultres Master Grande Tradition goes
for 15 days, A. Lange & Sohnes Lange 31 features
a whopping 31 days, and then Hublots MP-05
LaFerrari takes the cake by offering a record 50-day
power reserve.
Having said that, you cant have your cake
and eat it too. It takes a substantial barrel drum
(or drums) to sustain such massive power reserve.
What gives? It will have to be the size of the caliber
or functionalities. So it comes down to the balance
of having a watch of the right proportion offering a
right combination of functions, yet not a chore to
keep running. For that, we think eight-day power
reserve makes the most sense.
691,200 60160
60160 241
248
8691,200
879
()
Eight days is, in fact, a good buffer. If the user fully winds
the watch at the start of the week, he can be assured it will
run for an entire week with no slippage. Seven-day power
reserve probably works just as well, but it still doesnt offer
the absolute peace of mind that it will work as precisely on
the last leg in the cycle.
(Prices are approximate, for reference only.)
Watch News
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7433
Lange 3125mm1,850mm8-10Hublot MP-05 LaFerrari11
Panerai8Panerai2005P.20028848
The power for keeping a watch running comes from the tension
of winding the mainspring in the barrel drum, either through
hand-winding with the crown or, in the case of automatic watches,
through movement of the wrist to make the rotor pivot. When the
mainspring barrel is fully wound storing plenty of energy, the torque
is greater and naturally releasing greater forces. As time goes on,
the mainspring loosens, the torque lowers and the force reduces.
This is a challenge watchmakers have battled over the years.
Some designers have tried using fusee chains, or adding constant-
force mechanisms to keep the power continual. In the case of a
mainspring with a spiral of seven turns, it only takes four turns
daily to keep a watch running perfectly. The three extra turns are
for back up, in case the wearer forgets to wind the watch and the
residual power can keep it going for another 10 hours or so, albeit
less precisely.
The mechanism seems straightforward as long as the
mainspring is long, strong and flexible enough and the barrel
is large, then more power can be stored. What has flummoxed
watchmakers all these years, though, is how to maximize the
length of the mainspring and the number of drums within the
physical confines of a mechanism. After years of research, the
most adopted means is to lengthen the mainspring and connect a
number of barrels vertically or horizontally, directly or indirectly.
Lange 31, for example, has two vertical mainspring barrels,
each of a diameter of 25 millimetres that can accommodate a
mainspring of 1,850 millimetres. The length of two mainsprings
combined is eight to 10 times that of a traditional watch
mechanism. Hublot MP-05 LaFerrari has a staggering 11 barrels.
We narrow down the field today, and examine closely Officine
Panerais eight-day power reserve. Why Panerai? Because the
brands very first caliber P.2002, introduced in 2005, featured an
eight-day power reserve, an indication that the brand puts an
emphasis on this function. Interestingly, it has not stood still, and
the four watches featured here play with eight-day power reserves
in different ways.
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The minimalistic dial etches 8 GIORNI BREVETTATO in lieu of an Arabic number at 3 oclock. This eight-day power reserve symbol first appeared in the Submersible collection that the brand produced for the Egyptian navy in the 1950s. It has appeared three times again since, in the classic PAM203, the retro 60-millimetre Big Egyptian PAM341 and the more recent Composite PAM339 brown ceramic. This is proof that the big logo has a certain appeal.
Opposite the logo at 9 oclock are small seconds. The hour markers assume a yellow tint, in subtle contrast against the white of the watch brand beneath 12 oclock. While the look is retro, this PAM590 isnt using the Angelus Calibre from bygone years, but features the brands pride and joy, P.5000.
The solid caseback doesnt show off the movement inside. Rather, it is engraved with the brands signature torpedo motif, another key selling point for the brand. Its also worth mentioning that the Luminor case of PAM590 is not 47 millimetres, but a smaller 44 millimetres. Is this, perhaps, a reflection of its classiness? ($9,400)
The linear display at 6 oclock is not an eight-day power reserve indicator. Thats right, as the star of the watch is the equation of time showing the difference between the mean time indicated by a watch and the true time indicated by the solar meridian. You have to look at the caseback to check power reserve through the needle indicator.
The brand launched the P.2002 hand-winding movement in 2005, inspired by the Angelus Calibre of the 1940s. It also paved the way for P.2003, P.2004, P.2005, P.9000, P.2006, P.3000, P.9100, P.9100R, and then last years P.4000 and P.5000. Thats more than we can count with our fingers. The P.2002/E in this watch is an extension of P.2002, and the E perhaps indicates the addition of the Equation of Time complication.
PAM516 uses 48-millimetre stainless steel Radiomir 1940 case. It features small seconds at 9 oclock, date aperture and month sub-dial at 3 oclock and power reserve of 192 hours. It is water resistant to 100 metres and limited to 200 pieces. If you prefer the Luminor 1950 case, the PAM601 with similar functions is an option. ($27,000)
38 GIORNI BREVETTATO8logoSubmersible3PAM20360mm Big EgyptianPAM341Composite PAM339logo8912PAM590Angelus CalibreP.5000signaturePAM590Luminor47mm44mm$9,400
68power reservePAM5162005AngelusP.2002P.2003P.2004P.2005P.9000P.2006P.3000P.9100P.9100RP.4000P.500010P.2002/EP.2002EEquation of TimePAM51648mmRadiomir 194093192100200Luminor 1950PAM601$27,000
PAM590 PAM5168 days acciaio
Luminor marina
equation of time 8 days acciaio 48mm
radiomir 1940
Watch News
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Prior to 2012, people thought Panerai only had Radiomir and Luminor cases. Then the brand returned to its 1940s design and introduced the Radiomir 1940, blending the essence of the two cases. The earliest Panerai watches used the Radiomir case in the idiosyncratic cushion shape. In the interval of moving to the large-size Luminor, the Radiomir 1940 case appeared.
The earliest Radiomir 1940 used the OP XXVII movement. By 2013, the brand introduced more new creations featuring its own movements. This watch, which debuted in the 2013 Watches&Wonders, has the most complicated eight-day power reserve chronograph, powered by P.2004/10 skeletonized movement. It has three barrels and a power reserve linear indicator at 6 oclock. The PAM502 in a 45-millimetre rose gold case and brown dial is limited to 300 pieces. The PAM503 white gold version with S.L.C. dots for hour index on a black dial is a limited edition of 150 pieces. ($55,000)
The most budget-friendly of the eight-day power reserves in this story, this watch features a proprietary P.5000 movement born last year. Other than having two barrels and continuous gears producing power reserve for 192 hours in eight days, the mechanism also boasts superior stability and precision. It is stable because it is solidly made, with the parts sandwiched between two metal plates.
As to precision, we have to start with the balance wheel. The bridge supporting the wheel is fixed by two screws that can be turned to adjust the end shake of the balance staff pivots. Its period of oscillation is adjusted by turning the little timing screws on the outside of the balance wheel. The two features work together to ensure the escapement keeps running precisely even at shock.
P.5000 doesnt have a power indicator. Instead, it is marked 8 DAYS at 6 oclock and engraved EIGHT DAYS on the case back -- subtle, not brazen. The case in 316L stainless steel, measures 45 millimetres and is water resistant to 100 metres. ($9,100)
2012PaneraiRadiomirLuminorRadiomir 1940PaneraiRadiomirLuminorRadiomir 1940Radiomir 1940OP XXVII20132013Watches&Wonders8P.2004/103645mmPAM502300PAM503S.L.C150$55,000
8 P.5000PAM609P.50008192P.5000P.5000power indicatorPAM60968 DAYSEIGHT DAYS45mm316L100$9,100
PAM502 PAM6098 days Gmt oro rosso 45mm
radiomir 1940 chrono monopuLsante
8 days acciaio
radiomir BLack seaL
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Dries Van notenFamily and Tribe
Dries Van
Noten
garment
text |
In his latest collection, Dries Van Noten draws
inspiration from his family and from Asian and
Indian tribes, marrying familiarity and exoticism
with an experts touch.
DVNsatinliningfeel
casualpatchwork blousonTprintDVN
52 3 41
on runway
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7 86 9 10
In recent years, reversible clothing has not enjoyed
much popularity. However, it has not completely
disappeared from the stage. Almost every Autumn-Winter
season, someone has come up with some reversible design.
This year it is DVNs turn to offer its take on the reversible.
By virtue of its name, both sides of a reversible jacket
can be worn on the outside. But honestly, one of the
sides often looks better, so the other side is seldom
seen. This time, Van Noten has designed a long wool
jacket, with a straight collar full of buttons very
formal looking. Once the jacket is reversed, it is totally
different. Using tri-coloured satin as lining and the
trademark sparkling fabric of DVN, the jacket features
a quilted upper layer with embroidered patterns, with
a feel that is similar to the Chinese lacquered jacket.
There are a few flowing ties, giving even more interest
to this reversed side.
The reverse side also showcases impeccable
craftsmanship. In the reversible jacket family, not only is
there the single-coloured Mao jacket, but also other styles
01Navy blue cotton sweater with tribal print quilted sleeve 02Multicolour plaid wool bomber jacket with grosgrain stripe 03Multicolour plaid wool pants with kilt overlay 04Black and navy wool tribal jacquard sweater 05Black quilted wool-cotton blazer
such as ethnic prints and zippered jackets. Each one
offers surprises to the customer.
The mens collection matches well with this seasons
womens collection. The collections main theme is ethnic
prints. As a fashion designer and not an ethnic costume
designer, DVN cleverly selects muted colours as opposed
to the traditional happy, bright colours of tribal dress. To add
colour, he expertly added patterns to the menswear.
For formal wear, there is the ethnic robe and shirt.
For a wilder look, there is the long vest with fur collar.
For a casual look, there is the patchwork blouson, plus
T-shirt and shorts. Even the backpack radiates tribal
exoticism, completing the whole look.
This series of ethnic prints follows two main trends
floral and totem. Even though the two patterns seem
to be from different ethnic groups, DVN has carefully used
matching colours that are close relatives. So although the
florals sometimes clashed with the totems, the walkway
presentation did nothing but ignite creative sparks all over.
06Dark navy wool sleeveless coat with tribal print quilted and detachable faux fur collar
07Black and navy wool tribal jacquard pants 08-9Black wool reversible jacket with satin quilted lining10Floral print canvas backpack
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Fashion Talk
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Thom BrowneThe odd one
Thom Browne
New York Suit
Thom Browne
Thom Browne is, no doubt, the contemporary
authority on suits. Not only does he walk the walk by
constantly sporting the same grey suit, but he also has
contemporized his suit lines to make them resonate with
the youthful set. More than just having a suit as the focus
of every collection, he has been wearing the same grey
New York Suit every day. Each piece of this particular suit
line is hand-made in New York and hence carries a price
tag several times that of regular suits.
People buy them because of me, Browne boasts.
text | Lisaphoto | Kauzrambler
03
0201
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Thom Browne2001Thom BrowneThom Browne
Thom Browne
Hes not bragging. This is not the first time he has put himself up as
the brands front man. When the brand was first launched in 2001, Brown
got New York tailors to sew five sets of the same suit to be worn day in,
day out: wherever he goes. Soon, friends and strangers alike took notice,
and this paved the way for him to set up his own workshop.
The brand has grown much larger since, and Browne still sticks to
wearing the same suit -- so much so that the grey suit has become his
signature.
I think suits are classic designs, says Browne. A set of well-made suits
can underscore the wearers class. Suits should be appreciated by men and
women alike. As long as its well made, it can be worn every day.
Be that as it may, not every man is into his designs characterized by
a slim fit with broad shoulders and a shrunken look. The jacket extends
to just above the waistline and the pants stretch only to above the
ankle, exposing short socks. Critics say his suits are strange and out of
proportion, but he couldnt care less.
01,03Thom Browne2016
Thom Browne visits Hong Kong to unveil the latest 2016 Spring-Summer collection, a tribute to the Japanese culture and artistry, incorporating the essence of kimonos and Japanese embroidery into suits.
02
Each suit is embroidered with classic Japanese patterns, with exceptional details down to connecting the patterns on every piece to form a full picture -- from the jacket, to the vest, to the pants.
04
Fashion Talk
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Thom Browne2016
Rocco CiccarelliThom B r o w n e R o c c o Ciccarel l iclassicRocco CiccarelliThom BrowneRocco CiccarelliNew York SuitThom BrowneNew York SuitThom BrowneNew York Suit
Thom Browne
It is not a design for everybody, and I accept
that there are people who dont like it, but those
who do will appreciate its oddness, he said.
Indeed, his suits have found fans among
young people. Browne believes he has redefined
classic suits and made old fuddy-duddy suits hip
and fun so that young people are happy to wear
them.
With the exception of Brownes signature
New York Suit, the brands suits are always made
in Japan, for Browne appreciates the Japanese doggedness for detail. The
latest 2016 Spring-Summer collection is a tribute to the Japanese culture
and artistry, incorporating classic elements of kimonos, embroideries and
wooden clogs.
I admire the Japanese peoples passion towards life, Browne says.
Whatever they do, they care about details. That way, you are assured that
the things they make are of the highest quality. You cant find this elsewhere.
Thats why this collection is a tribute to Japan. Each garment is a revelation
of the Japanese peoples impeccable artistry and deep heritage.
Despite being a fan of Japanese craftsmanship, he is wearing
something made not in Japan, but by New York tailor Rocco Ciccarelli. He
has stuck with him since Day 1.
Its difficult to find a classic tailor willing to make non-classic suits,
but Rocco Ciccarelli accepts my innovative ideas and makes what I want,
though he must have rolled his eyes along the way.
After years of collaboration, Browne eventually bought Ciccarellis tailor
shop and turned it into his workshop. The latest New York Suit collection is
rooted in the design that he has been wearing all these years. A tailored suit
here costs upward of $7,000.
I would say the quality of suits made in Japan or New York is about the
same, Browne explains. The difference is Im in New York. New York Suit
is what I have been wearing, so no doubt Im giving it more attention. It is a
personal connection that true Thom Browne fans will understand. I would
say they buy New York Suit because of me.
Sounds pompous? Thats because Browne has indeed revolutionized
the silhouette of suits to encourage young people to wear them.
Odd is just a perception he says. My designs may not be embraced
by ordinary men, but at least they will make them think, and try to move
forward just a little bit to wear something different. This is what I think I can
do for fashion.
04 New York SuitThom BrowneNew York SuitThom Browne
Thom Browne sets up a mirror room in New York Fashion Week for the release of New York Suit to have the designs and handiwork seen from all angles. The suit that is synonymous with Browne is sold in its Hong Kong store, where measurements are taken for tailoring in New York.
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START DATE: 1-20-2015 3:34 PM ART DIRECTOR:Lindsay ARTIST: Ryan
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Makeup
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AutuMn-Winter trend
text | Angel Siuphoto | Micheal K.model | Kitti @ Modelonemakeup | Elly Wonghair | Green Cheung
The natural and translucent look is one of the hot makeup trends
this Autumn-Winter season. Utilizing cosmetics with a sparkling
and translucent texture, this look highlights and brightens the
different parts of the face, giving a clear, three-dimensional glow.
step01On Face
step02
step03
step08
On Cheeks
On Lips
step09
step10
step11
step04
On Eyes step05
step06
step07
For the base, use a two-toned liquid foundation to create a sculpted, three-dimensional look. First, apply the darker-coloured foundation beneath the cheekbone and at the jaw line. Smooth with a sponge.
TIn the T-zone and the centre of the face, dab on the lighter-coloured foundation. Slowly blend all over the face.
Dot concealer over dark eye circles, acne marks and other blemishes. Lightly press twice with the finger for a more refined look.
Brush a thin layer of power foundation all over the face to lessen the brightness.
On the eyelid, brush on a light-gold eyeshadow to brighten up the skin around the eyes.
Dab a little brown eyeshadow and brush it on the eyelid.
Using a flesh-coloured shimmering eyeshadow pencil, draw in the eyeline.
Brush on eyeshadow at the roots of the bottom eyelashes.
Este Lauder Bronze Goddess shimmering nudes eyeshadow palette $66 (sephora.com)
Make Up For Ever Aqua Smoky Extravagant $28 (sephora.com)
Le Mtier de Beaut The Cheeky Chic Kaleidoscope $131.85 (neimanmarcus.com)
Using an eyelash curler, lightly curl the lashes. Brush a lengthening and thickening mascara on the top and bottom lashes.
Brush a light-coral rouge onto both cheeks, brushing diagonally upwards.
To match the rouge, apply a light-coral lipstick to the lips.
Laura Mercier silk creme moisturizing photo edition foundation #Cream Ivory $58 (sephora.com)
Cle de Peau concealer #Beige $97.15 (nordstrom.com)
Laura Mercier silk creme moisturizing photo edition foundation #Beige Ivory $58 (sephora.com)
Chanel Les Beiges healthy glow sheer colour SPF 15 No10 $80.50 (nordstrom.com)
Este Lauder Bronze Goddess shimmering nudes eyeshadow palette $66 (sephora.com)
Este Lauder Bronze Goddess shimmering nudes eyeshadow palette $66 (sephora.com)
Make Up For Ever Aqua Matic #ME-54 $26 (sephora.com)
Shu Uemura rouge unlimited sheer shine CR340 $36 (shuuemura.ca)
For the Autumn-Winter season, a low-key yet luxurious, understated yet
naturally glowing skin is the focal point. The difficulty lies in how to create
a delicate and elegant brightness, yet not make it look greasy. Professional
makeup artists suggest using a shimmering liquid foundation and then
applying a thin layer of power foundation all over the face to set the makeup.
LuxuriousSkin
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Makeup
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step01On Eyes
step02
step03
step04
step05
step10On Lips
step06
Brush a matte-brown eyeshadow to the entire eyelid and the area just beneath the brow bone.
Chanel Les 5 Ombres de Chanel eyeshadow palette $111.03 (nordstrom.com)
Dior Diorshow waterproof pro liner 092 Backstage Black $32 (sephora.com)
Este Lauder Pure Colour Envy sculpting lipstick $34 (esteelauder.ca)
Chanel Les 5 Ombres de Chanel eyeshadow palette $111.03 (nordstrom.com)
MAC Veluxe Pearlfusion Shadow: Copperluxe $48 (maccomestics.ca)
MAC Veluxe Pearlfusion Shadow: Copperluxe $48 (maccomestics.ca)
Chanel Blue Rhythm Ligne Graphique de Chanel $47.19 (nordstrom.com)
Brush a shimmering light-brown eyeshadow onto the raised part of the eyelid.
Using a black liquid eyeliner, draw a thin line at the root of the upper eyelashes, extending slightly beyond the outer corner of the eye.
step07
Dolce & Gabbana duo creamy powder cheeks and eyes $52.82 (harrods.com)
Brush a shimmering white eyeshadow onto the lower inside corner of the eye to give a clean, translucent look.
Brush on a shimmering brown eyeshadow beneath the eye, starting from the centre and moving towards the inside corner of the eye.
Next, use a black eyeliner pencil to draw the eyeline under the eye. The line should be thicker near the outer corner of the eye.
Brush several layers of dark-brown eyeshadow onto the lower eyeline.
step08
Chanel Fall 2015 Le Volume de Chanel mascara $44.41(nordstrom.com)
Finally, brush a thickening and lengthening mascara onto the lashes.
Apply a pink lipstick to the lips.
step09On Cheeks
Nars Tribulation blush $37 (murale.ca)
From the bottom on the cheekbone moving diagonally upwards, brush on a light-brown rouge, sculpting an angular three-dimensional outline.
Super-stylish, heavily smoky eye makeup is featured prominently each
Autumn-Winter season. This year is no exception. However, the early autumn
look does not need a deep black. Rather, the smoky area is concentrated
beneath the eye and spreads downwards. The look is autumnal, but not
serious. Using a simple technique, one can create a delicately exquisite texture.
SmokyWaterline
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Beauty News
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SUPERSTARTSKIN RENEWAL BOOSTER
text, photo | Provided by Elizabeth Arden
Known for its holistic approach, Elizabeth Arden has introduced
a new skincare philosophy, Arden Active Skincare, which works to
repair, transform and optimize skins overall healthy appearance.
Today, Elizabeth Arden is proud to launch its first new Arden Active
Skincare innovation: SUPERSTART Skin Renewal Booster. This
product provides daily support to the surface layer of skin, to help
boost its natural defences and renewal ability, while ultimately
optimizing the results of the entire skincare regimen.
SUPERSTART marks the emergence of a new skin-boosting
beauty category, introducing consumers to an imperative new step
in their skincare regimen that addresses the healthy look of the
skins surface layer, the stratum corneum. Used before a serum or
moisturizer, SUPERSTART Skin Renewal Boosters ultra-lightweight,
fast-absorbing formula is clinically proven to restore the healthy
appearance of the surface layer for supple, smooth, more radiant-
looking skin.
Elizabeth ArdenArden Active SkincareElizabeth ArdenArden Active Skincare SUPERSTART Skin Renewal Booster
SUPERSTARTSUPERSTART Skin Renewal Booster
92%SUPERSTART* 95% SUPERSTART **Elizabeth Arden PREVAGECeramide SUPERSTART Skin Renewal Booster+
- 5 - 9 - 25
SUPERSTART Skin Renewal Booster(Probiotic Complex)(Sea F e n n e l ) ( F l a x s e e d Extracts)
* 8925-598
** 6225-598
+ Elizabeth A r d e n SUPERSTART Skin Renewal Booster
SUPERSTART SKIN RENEWAL BOOSTER $88.00 / 30ml
In fact, 92 per cent of women agree that SUPERSTART helps
repair the look and feel of skin,* and 95 per cent also agree that
SUPERSTART boosts the effectiveness of their skincare products.**
When used in tandem with Elizabeth Arden PREVAGE and Ceramide
products, SUPERSTART Skin Renewal Booster is proven to increase+:
Skins natural collagen by up to 5x Skins natural elastin by up to 9x Skins natural hydration by up to 25x
SUPERSTART Skin Renewal Booster
is designed with an exclusive probiotic complex, sea fennel and flaxseed extracts that work holistically to help skin restore
its natural barrier for a healthy-looking
condition. Skin feels resilient, refreshed
and capable of real transformation.
* Based on a U.S. home-use consumer survey of 89 women 25-59 years of age after eight weeks.
** Based on a U.S. home-use consumer survey of 62 women aged 25-59 after eight weeks.
+ Based on an ex-vivo test comparing the effectiveness of top-selling Elizabeth Arden anti-aging products when used alone vs. when used in combination with SUPERSTART Skin Renewal Booster.
New Dimension Transformative Collection ()New Dimension Shape + Fill Expert SerumExpert Liquid Tape() Shape + Sculpt Face Kit()Shape + Sculpt Eye Kit ()
New Dimension Shape + Fill Expert Serum91%*New Dimension Shape + Fill Expert Serum
A new perspective. A different angle.
Este Lauder introduces the new Dimension
Transformative Collection, a transformative
experience that can redefine a womans perspective
on how she sees herself. The breakthrough the
new Dimension Shape + Fill Expert Serum is a
powerful, concentrated formula that helps define
the look of contours to help lift the look of cheeks
and the jawline by improving both visible volume
and structure. When used with the Expert Liquid
Tape, along with two custom-shaping experts --
Shape + Sculpt Face Kit and Shape + Sculpt Eye
Kit -- it can help create beautiful contours and a
visibly more defined facial shape. Working on
every level of the skins surface, the revolutionary
products work together to produce a new angle
on beauty through the transformative power of
contouring. The multi-faceted transformation can
be seen immediately and over time.
A NEW PERSPECTIVE ON BEAUTY
New Dimension is also changing womens
perspective on the way they see themselves. Este
Lauder went beyond traditional consumer testing,
using advanced neuroscience testing to measure
the physiological and emotional responses of women after using New
Dimension Shape + Fill Expert Serum. This type of testing has long
been used to understand peoples reactions through the workings of
the brain and nervous system, and it is the first time its been used to